B&W Owner's Thread - Page 111 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #3301 of 19254 Old 10-28-2008, 09:30 PM
Member
 
Wampy1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wampy1234 View Post

I'm making the jump to B&W in about 2 weeks when the 2309 finally arrives in Perth, Western Australia, getting the following:

685 Mains
686 Rears
HTM62 Center
Energy ESW-V8 Sub
Denon 2309 AVR

Will be getting hooked up to my:

Sharp Aquos LC-46PD7X LCD
PS3
HTPC

Should sound sweet

Out of Interest, is the Denon 2309 undercutting my speakers in any way or should it provide ample power to get the best out of them? Only new in the HT game
Wampy1234 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #3302 of 19254 Old 10-28-2008, 10:02 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Bigred7078's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 2,947
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wampy1234 View Post

Out of Interest, is the Denon 2309 undercutting my speakers in any way or should it provide ample power to get the best out of them? Only new in the HT game

honestly i'd say your fine with the 2309 if you have normal listening level...
now of course an amp never hurts
Bigred7078 is offline  
post #3303 of 19254 Old 10-28-2008, 11:01 PM
Member
 
daddyyankee's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I just picked up a pair of B&W 685's from Ken Cranes. For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to remove the black and red plastic caps that cover the metal binding posts. I am not able to connect my banana plug speaker cables without removing these caps. Are these caps designed to be removed? What is a safe way of prying them off without damaging the binding posts?

Thanks !!!
daddyyankee is offline  
post #3304 of 19254 Old 10-28-2008, 11:24 PM
Member
 
focker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have the 803d's hooked up to the Pioneer SC-07 now and I am surprised to hear how nice they sound considering I thought I would need so much more power. SACD's are sounding wonderful. I will either pick up a McIntosh MC402 or the new Rotel RMB1575 for more power in the next few months when I can audition both.
I am thinking about posting a somewhat humorous photo of the current setup because I sold my Definitive Tech's this weekend and until I get the HTM2d (and the entertainment center I am having built to fit the monster) later this week I have an old Radio Shack Minimus 7 speaker that is about 4"x6" running as my center channel. Even more humorous to me is that it actually doesn't sound to bad

Scott
focker is offline  
post #3305 of 19254 Old 10-28-2008, 11:39 PM
Advanced Member
 
wgriel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 587
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyyankee View Post

I just picked up a pair of B&W 685's from Ken Cranes. For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to remove the black and red plastic caps that cover the metal binding posts. I am not able to connect my banana plug speaker cables without removing these caps. Are these caps designed to be removed? What is a safe way of prying them off without damaging the binding posts?

Thanks !!!

Yes! Just take a butter knife or a thin screw driver and pry the plastic cap loose - it will be easy to remove then. I think they are there for some safety reason (they resemble an electric plug in some part of Europe or the UK, or so I've heard).
wgriel is offline  
post #3306 of 19254 Old 10-28-2008, 11:43 PM
Member
 
Wampy1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigred7078 View Post

honestly i'd say your fine with the 2309 if you have normal listening level...
now of course an amp never hurts

Cool thanks, out of interest.. the genereal impression i've been getting from reading some posts in the 1909 & 2309 threads is that an amp requires that you're reciever have pre-outs, is that correct? because I don't think the 2309 has pre-outs.
Wampy1234 is offline  
post #3307 of 19254 Old 10-29-2008, 01:43 AM
Member
 
marsboer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 167
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Here is my B&W system:

Front: B&W 805S with black original stands (B&W FS-805)
Center: B&W HTM4S
Rear: B&W DM685
Sub: SVS PC13-Ultra
Amplifiers: Electrocompaniet AW400 (NADA)
AV-Receiver: Yamaha RX-V1800
Music: Slimdevices Transporter (music stored on Linux fileserver)
TV: LG 47LG5000
Movies: Sony Playstation 3 with blu-ray remote
Cables: Kimber Monocle XL 1.9m (spades), Better Cables Silver Serpent III 1.5m (center), Better Cables Reference HDMI 1m and a 2m
Rack: Soundstyle XS310

I have owned B&W DM602 S3, B&W 802D, B&W DM683 and B&W HTM61 before.
Even though 802D costed 6 times more than my 805S (bought them used) 805S is performing much better in my room.
This is just one more example that selecting the correct speaker for the correct room is essential.
All of these speakers has performed good, exept the HTM61, which was a downright bad center channel speaker even though the physical build and theoretical performance should indicate otherwise. Very dissappointed in that one.
HTM4S is lightyears better than the HTM61 and also a much better voicematch for the DM683. Really recommended, even for DM683 owners!



























marsboer is offline  
post #3308 of 19254 Old 10-29-2008, 05:34 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Bigred7078's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 2,947
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
^ jesus is that effin 6awg?? haha! nice amps!
Bigred7078 is offline  
post #3309 of 19254 Old 10-29-2008, 05:36 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Bigred7078's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 2,947
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wampy1234 View Post

Cool thanks, out of interest.. the genereal impression i've been getting from reading some posts in the 1909 & 2309 threads is that an amp requires that you're reciever have pre-outs, is that correct? because I don't think the 2309 has pre-outs.

yup you definately need pre-outs to use an external amp. If you ever feel like you would want to use a seperate amp, then i would step up to a higher model. Its just kind of how you feel they perform.
Bigred7078 is offline  
post #3310 of 19254 Old 10-29-2008, 06:44 AM
Member
 
Wampy1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigred7078 View Post

yup you definately need pre-outs to use an external amp. If you ever feel like you would want to use a seperate amp, then i would step up to a higher model. Its just kind of how you feel they perform.

Ta for the confirmation
Wampy1234 is offline  
post #3311 of 19254 Old 10-29-2008, 07:26 AM
Senior Member
 
Reid_T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Houston
Posts: 251
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Has anyone directly A/B'ed the HTM7 vs the HTM4S? (When I bought my HTM7, the dealer didn't have any 4's.) Was there a significant difference in SQ, enough to justify the 2x difference in price?

-Reid
Reid_T is offline  
post #3312 of 19254 Old 10-29-2008, 08:57 PM
Member
 
daddyyankee's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by wgriel View Post

Yes! Just take a butter knife or a thin screw driver and pry the plastic cap loose - it will be easy to remove then. I think they are there for some safety reason (they resemble an electric plug in some part of Europe or the UK, or so I've heard).

Thanks! They are sticky little buggers, but it's good to know that I don't have to swap out by banana plugs for spades.
daddyyankee is offline  
post #3313 of 19254 Old 10-29-2008, 09:01 PM
Member
 
fhsun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JacobC1983 View Post

does anybody here use an onkyo 805 (in the preamp mode the receiver is capable of) and an external amplifier for the 683s.. or any variation thereof.. (such as using a receiver to an external amplifier) and find the 683s really singing.. or is there not much of a difference with these particular speakers?

I don't have an Onkyo, but I was disappointed when I hooked up my new 683's to my old Pioneer AV receiver w/ 50W per channel. The sound was flat and lacked resolution. I knew 683's are capable of much more when hooked up to better components as I've heard them in shops.

I also picked up a 120w x 5 Rotel power amp with the 683's so I used the Pioneer's pre-outs and the power amp combo to drive the 683's. With the added power I did hear some improvements to the 683's but still far from their full potential. I think the dynamic was better but the overall resolution and sound stage didn't improve much.

The amp helps but I think your preamp is still going to be the biggest factor in shaping the sound. If you can borrow a power amp to compare the difference that would really help.
fhsun is offline  
post #3314 of 19254 Old 10-29-2008, 09:38 PM
Member
 
fhsun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
[quote=n2siast;14957111]
Quote:
Originally Posted by fhsun View Post

Made the plunge over the weekend! Thanks to the consultation from everyone in this forum, I went out and got the following:

683 front
HTM61 center
M-1 surround
ASW610

Doing my best to break in the speakers right now

Oh, BTW... I also picked up a Rotel RMB-1075 120W x 5 amp!

This was an unexpected purchase but I couldn't resist because the shop is blowing out current year Rotel stuff at 25% off to make way for the 2009 models.


Nice setup. Did you get a chance to listen to the CM series? Anyway check out Emotiva, they're coming out with a new pre-pro at a reasonable price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefl52 View Post

Congratulations on the new equipment.

This is a tough question without any price guidelines since seperates can quickly get expensive.

Features you probably need in a modern pre/pro are:
HDMI1.3 (at least 4) inputs
Good video scalar
On-board processing for modern codecs (TruHD, TDS HDMA) since I am sure if you don't already have a bluray player, now that the bug has caught you you will want one.
Room Correction (Audyssey or Anthem ARC) significantly improves the HT experience
8 ch analog inputs

Look at the Integra DTC9.8, it is pretty much up to date video and audio wise at a reasonable price. You might be able to get it reduced since they are upgrading it to a 9.9 model.

I have Anthem and think it is excellent. They are updating all there line (AVM50 and D2) in the very near future. This may be out of your price range though

Classe SSP800 is beautiful and owned by B&W but is also quite expensive.

I know you said don't mention Rotel but they are coming out with a new pre/pro.

It is really tough at the moment since in the separates market every one is busy developing HDMI 1.3B compatable pre/pros. Six months down the road everything might be in place but at the moment there are not too many pre/pros that are compatable with today's technology requirements.

My last comment is to look at a company that supports their equipment with downloadable upgrades. Modern pre/pros are basically computers with DSP chips and video processing chips so it is possible for companies to support upgrades with downloads, rather than making you buy a new processor. Being computers they also come with bugs so get used to making changes.

I am sure there are others that people have preferences for. Also have a look on the AMP/Receivers/ProPro forum:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=90

Good Luck - How about a photo when it is all set up.

Thanks for the great advices! I will definitely check out those leads.

I've heard about the 2009 Rotel RSP-1570 and I'm also keeping my eye on the pending Emotiva UMC-1. These are more in my price range given the money I spent on the Rotel RMB-1075.

The Anthem and the Classe I'm sure are outstanding but they are also way out of my range. I would say I want to limited to $2K for the pre/pro to go with the given amp and speakers.

As soon as I get a decent rack to set up my components I'll post photos. Too embarassed to do so right now as they are just stacked up on the floor
fhsun is offline  
post #3315 of 19254 Old 10-30-2008, 07:32 AM
Member
 
Spylake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 42
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyyankee View Post

Thanks! They are sticky little buggers, but it's good to know that I don't have to swap out by banana plugs for spades.

On the CM7 I used an allan key to push them out from behind.
Spylake is offline  
post #3316 of 19254 Old 10-30-2008, 09:15 AM
Member
 
RLPIII's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 165
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spylake View Post

On the CM7 I used an allan key to push them out from behind.

Yep, they are a PITA to get out. I chewed up my first one trying to get it out a while back. Some come out easy and some just feel like they are stuck. I have not tried your method yet. I'll have to remember it for next time.
RLPIII is offline  
post #3317 of 19254 Old 10-31-2008, 07:30 PM
Advanced Member
 
Emig5m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NJ, USA
Posts: 935
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by altanpsx View Post

I have a 683's, 686's and htm61. Until, a week ago, I drive them with Yamaha Rx-v663. 663 cinema performance is great, but stereo performance is very very bad. So a week ago I bought an Roksan Kandy MKII integrated amp. and Roksan Kandy MKIII cdp. Difference is amazing. Drive 683's with a stereo amp. and see what these babes can do.

Wow and I thought the RX-663 had pretty damn good stereo sound performance. It was a major leap over my Sony STR-DE845 for stereo sound which the Sony was downright horrible in every way. I got a Emotiva power amp and to be honest with you, if don't need to have absolute performance at high volume then I think the power amp is a waste. I didn't hear too much of a difference if any at moderate volume over the Yamaha's internal amps. However, the jump from the Sony receiver to the Yamaha WAS a pretty significant jump and easily noticeable in stereo.

But very very bad? I don't think you've experienced very very bad yet. Well then the Sony (actually I had two Sonys) was in the absolutely horrendous level, lol. Actually most people in the Yamaha 663 thread seem to really like the sound quality of the unit. Now I'm wondering if the new Emotiva Pre/Pro will outdo the Yamaha in 2-channel stereo sound quality?
Emig5m is offline  
post #3318 of 19254 Old 10-31-2008, 08:34 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Bigred7078's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 2,947
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emig5m View Post

. Now I'm wondering if the new Emotiva Pre/Pro will outdo the Yamaha in 2-channel stereo sound quality?

in every way imagineable... at least im sure
Bigred7078 is offline  
post #3319 of 19254 Old 10-31-2008, 09:49 PM
Newbie
 
Tybal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Could someone please describe the difference between the diamond tweeter and the low end aluminum one. I'd love to hear it described. --thank you.
Tybal is offline  
post #3320 of 19254 Old 10-31-2008, 10:03 PM
Newbie
 
Tybal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tybal View Post

Could someone please describe the difference between the diamond tweeter and the low end aluminum one. I'd love to hear it described. --thank you.

Whoops, a quick search tells me why. Very good. But I would still like to hear from B&W owners their opinions.
Tybal is offline  
post #3321 of 19254 Old 11-01-2008, 09:01 AM
Advanced Member
 
Emig5m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NJ, USA
Posts: 935
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tybal View Post

Whoops, a quick search tells me why. Very good. But I would still like to hear from B&W owners their opinions.

I just got a B&W 800 series DVD in the mail and it said the technical difference is that the breakup frequency is much higher which makes the sound/response curve more accurate as you raise the breakup frequency. So the reason why the tweeter extends much higher then the human hearing is to raise the breakup frequency and not so much just to say it will play that high. They said out off the materials they looked at that diamond was the best to extend the breakup frequency from 33,000 all the way up to 70,000Hz or so making it much closer to the perfect response curve of a perfect tweeter at the ranges of human hearing then the aluminum which they pronounce and spell it aluminium in the DVD, heh. So technical reason is that it's suppose to be more accurate and less coloration according to the B&W 800 series DVD.
Emig5m is offline  
post #3322 of 19254 Old 11-01-2008, 09:15 AM
Advanced Member
 
will1383's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Saratoga, NY
Posts: 544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Does anyone have any experience with the LCR7's? I am looking to put together a HT system including the following:

3 LCR7's
2 CWM 650's
2 CDS 6S3 (dipoles)

My subwoofer is a Velodyne spl-1200

The system is going to be driven (for the near term) with a Pioneer Elite VSX-94TXH A/V receiver.

I see LOTs of discussion here with the 600, 700 and 800 series, but they are all cabinet speakers, where as I intend to purchase the in-walls.

From what I am trying to understand, the drivers in the LCR's are equivalant to what is in the 700 series..

You guys seem to be much more knowledgeable than I, but I will say I do like the sound of the LCR's quite a bit. Any insight? Any comments?

Thanks in advance.

D
will1383 is offline  
post #3323 of 19254 Old 11-01-2008, 03:43 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Kal Rubinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: NYC + Connecticut
Posts: 28,433
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 63 Post(s)
Liked: 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emig5m View Post

I just got a B&W 800 series DVD in the mail and it said the technical difference is that the breakup frequency is much higher which makes the sound/response curve more accurate as you raise the breakup frequency. So the reason why the tweeter extends much higher then the human hearing is to raise the breakup frequency and not so much just to say it will play that high. They said out off the materials they looked at that diamond was the best to extend the breakup frequency from 33,000 all the way up to 70,000Hz or so making it much closer to the perfect response curve of a perfect tweeter at the ranges of human hearing then the aluminum which they pronounce and spell it aluminium in the DVD, heh. So technical reason is that it's suppose to be more accurate and less coloration according to the B&W 800 series DVD.

The Diamond tweeter also permits a lower order HP crossover. Compare the D tweeter bullets with the previous models and you will see the position of the front of the bullet has been shifted forward to take advantage of the new phase relationship with the mid.

Kal Rubinson

"Music in the Round"
Senior Contributing Editor, Stereophile
http://www.stereophile.com/category/music-round

Kal Rubinson is online now  
post #3324 of 19254 Old 11-01-2008, 11:35 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Bigred7078's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 2,947
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wampy1234 View Post

I'm having an issue with my new setup where at volume levels arround -4.0db or higher that I get an audio crack or pop at specific points in some movies, if I lower the speaker volume a little then it doesn't make the noise but It's seems odd that I'd get this noise at what I think should be a completely acceptable volume level for my setup, the movies it happened on had a DTS audio track and a DTS HD MA track.

I'm running a Denon 2309 currently only in a 2.1 setup with B&W 685 mains & an energy ESW-V8 sub, any idea's? I'm temporarily using speakers that were floor stock at the retailer as new ones weren't in stock yet, so the speakers are atleast broken in.

Any idea's, could this be a speaker fault?

Edit: Just tested one of the problem scene's and it actually was happening as low as -7.0db and when adjusted to -8.0db the pop noise went away.


Sounds like a DTS MA bomb... watch out it can be damaging.
Bigred7078 is offline  
post #3325 of 19254 Old 11-01-2008, 11:59 PM
Member
 
Wampy1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'm having an issue with my new setup where at volume levels arround -4.0db or higher that I get an audio crack or pop at specific points in some movies, if I lower the speaker volume a little then it doesn't make the noise but It's seems odd that I'd get this noise at what I think should be a completely acceptable volume level for my setup, the movies it happened on had a DTS audio track and a DTS HD MA track.

I'm running a Denon 2309 currently only in a 2.1 setup with B&W 685 mains & an energy ESW-V8 sub, any idea's? I'm temporarily using speakers that were floor stock at the retailer as new ones weren't in stock yet, so the speakers are atleast broken in.

Any idea's, could this be a speaker fault?

Edit: Just tested one of the problem scene's and it actually was happening as low as -7.0db and when adjusted to -8.0db the pop noise went away.

Update: Turned off the sub and the audio pop wen't away even while testing at very high volume, will play with the sub settings to see what I can do to elimate the problem, could someone recommend me settings on phase and Low pass filter?? - also i've set my speakers to small in the AVR settings.
Wampy1234 is offline  
post #3326 of 19254 Old 11-02-2008, 08:32 AM
Member
 
Spylake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 42
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wampy1234 View Post

I'm having an issue with my new setup where at volume levels arround -4.0db or higher that I get an audio crack or pop at specific points in some movies, if I lower the speaker volume a little then it doesn't make the noise but It's seems odd that I'd get this noise at what I think should be a completely acceptable volume level for my setup, the movies it happened on had a DTS audio track and a DTS HD MA track.

I'm running a Denon 2309 currently only in a 2.1 setup with B&W 685 mains & an energy ESW-V8 sub, any idea's? I'm temporarily using speakers that were floor stock at the retailer as new ones weren't in stock yet, so the speakers are atleast broken in.

Any idea's, could this be a speaker fault?

Edit: Just tested one of the problem scene's and it actually was happening as low as -7.0db and when adjusted to -8.0db the pop noise went away.

Update: Turned off the sub and the audio pop wen't away even while testing at very high volume, will play with the sub settings to see what I can do to elimate the problem, could someone recommend me settings on phase and Low pass filter?? - also i've set my speakers to small in the AVR settings.

Take a look at this thread as it explains the DTS Bomb:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1008620
Spylake is offline  
post #3327 of 19254 Old 11-02-2008, 03:04 PM
Member
 
Wampy1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spylake View Post

Take a look at this thread as it explains the DTS Bomb:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1008620


I don't think this is the issue because when playing the DTS HD-MA track it's from the PS3 so it can't be bitstreaming as described in the thread you linked.

Also I haven't heard anything about the DTS Bomb problem in the 1909 or 2309 threads
Wampy1234 is offline  
post #3328 of 19254 Old 11-02-2008, 04:01 PM
Advanced Member
 
will1383's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Saratoga, NY
Posts: 544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So, no one wants to touch the B&W in-walls, eh? you guys either don't like them that much, or you don't have any experience with them...
will1383 is offline  
post #3329 of 19254 Old 11-02-2008, 04:55 PM
Member
 
DiabloSandwich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 33
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi,
Please could anyone give me some information and advice on an impending B&W speaker purchase for my home cinema?

I am looking to upgrade the speakers in my system to some B&W 600 series ones.

On my reciever,I set the speakers to "small",crossovers at 120hz,and let my sub handle everything under that.

Would getting a a pair of 684 floorstanders give me anything performance/sound quality wise over a pair of 685 stand mounters on good quality fillable stands (probabaly Partington Dreadnaught Broadside stands)?

Going the 685+stands route is slightly cheaper,but not much.I would like to read your opinions

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
DiabloSandwich is offline  
post #3330 of 19254 Old 11-02-2008, 08:02 PM
Member
 
TastyHiHatWork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: CT
Posts: 187
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloSandwich View Post

Hi,
Please could anyone give me some information and advice on an impending B&W speaker purchase for my home cinema?

I am looking to upgrade the speakers in my system to some B&W 600 series ones.

On my reciever,I set the speakers to "small",crossovers at 120hz,and let my sub handle everything under that.

Would getting a a pair of 684 floorstanders give me anything performance/sound quality wise over a pair of 685 stand mounters on good quality fillable stands (probabaly Partington Dreadnaught Broadside stands)?

Going the 685+stands route is slightly cheaper,but not much.I would like to read your opinions

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

When I was shopping, I auditioned the 685s, 684s and 683s and I can say that, in my opinion, the 684s do not offer enough of an improvement over the extremely impressive 685s to justify the difference in price.
TastyHiHatWork is offline  
Reply Speakers

Tags
B W , Bowers And Wilkings 685 Speakers , carver cm-1090
Gear in this thread - cm-1090 by PriceGrabber.com

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off