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post #19831 of 25458 Old 11-11-2014, 01:23 PM
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Glad I just came across this because it relates to something a salesman just told me. I have to deal with in-wall speakers for the first time and it's in a room that's already built out. The issue is that once the TV & the speakers get placed, chances are that the perfect place for a speaker is going to be right on top of a stud. Or, that the symmetry around the TV will require at least one of the speakers to be installed where a stud currently lies.

So, while my contractor said it's not a big deal to cut the stud and reframe it around the speaker, the speaker salesman said that if you framed the entire speaker (sides & top) with a frame, that it will inhibit the surrounding airflow and impact the sound of the speaker. He said you really want the speaker to lie in the wall cavity between studs, so that you maximize airflow. He said that what you might need to do is drill a couple 2" diameter holes (for instance) in the upper and lower parts of the frame to provide access for airflow into the wall cavity.

Does this sound correct? It would be a lot simpler if you could just cut the stud, put the speaker where you want it to go, then add as much reinforcement is necessary to make sure the wall is still structurally sound.

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Butler View Post
Hi BVLDARI,

You mount one of them horizontally by cutting out a stud and then reframing that part of the wall. That's how the pros do it.

Regards,

Patrick
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post #19832 of 25458 Old 11-11-2014, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post
I was curious if someone could point me in the right direction. I'm sure this questions has been asked a lot but I was curious about the differences between the generation one Diamond series and generation two Diamond series from B&W. Currently I'm looking into purchasing the 803D's. I see many for sale on the used market. Almost all of them are generation one diamonds. I noticed they dropped the price on the 803D2's when they came to market. While I like the aesthetic of the D2's better I'm just curious is the 803D1 is a better speaker? Is the drop in price an indication of a performance decrease or were they dropped in price simply to be more competitive in terms of value in their price class?
I had the same questions before I purchased my 803D1 fronts. Listened to both versions in a simple version blind test. Both sounded indistinguishable, same efficiency, same imaging to my ears so I am very happy with my decision.

B&W parts site has different part numbers for D1 and D2 crossover components and bass drivers and silver trim rings. Warranty replacement of a diamond tweeter had new D2 tweeter part number.

I really prefer the 803's in the Diamond series. Just listened to Stevie Ray vaughn, and now channel classics Budapest festival orchestra, and John Coltrane next. The 802's miss the boat with rock and roll compared to the 803's IMO.

Hope this is helpful.

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post #19833 of 25458 Old 11-11-2014, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhoffman000 View Post
Glad I just came across this because it relates to something a salesman just told me. I have to deal with in-wall speakers for the first time and it's in a room that's already built out. The issue is that once the TV & the speakers get placed, chances are that the perfect place for a speaker is going to be right on top of a stud. Or, that the symmetry around the TV will require at least one of the speakers to be installed where a stud currently lies.

So, while my contractor said it's not a big deal to cut the stud and reframe it around the speaker, the speaker salesman said that if you framed the entire speaker (sides & top) with a frame, that it will inhibit the surrounding airflow and impact the sound of the speaker. He said you really want the speaker to lie in the wall cavity between studs, so that you maximize airflow. He said that what you might need to do is drill a couple 2" diameter holes (for instance) in the upper and lower parts of the frame to provide access for airflow into the wall cavity.

Does this sound correct? It would be a lot simpler if you could just cut the stud, put the speaker where you want it to go, then add as much reinforcement is necessary to make sure the wall is still structurally sound.

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Butler View Post
Hi BVLDARI,

You mount one of them horizontally by cutting out a stud and then reframing that part of the wall. That's how the pros do it.

Regards,

Patrick
If you're concerned about the acoustic effect of cutting and framing out then follow your dealer's advice. It would take 2 minutes to pop a few holes with a 2" hole saw. It sounds like a better option than having your front soundstage compromised by misplacement.
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post #19834 of 25458 Old 11-12-2014, 08:03 AM
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Oh boy.

When it comes to Bowers & Wilkins in-wall loudspeakers, all you need to do is frame the wall properly, install your dry-wall and then the speaker. Naturally, the performance of the speaker will be limited by the the mechanical integrity of the wall. The more solid and non-resonant you can make it- the better. Additional air holes are not necessary, and in fact will compromise performance.

Regards,

Patrick
B&W Group North America


Quote:
Originally Posted by rhoffman000 View Post
Glad I just came across this because it relates to something a salesman just told me. I have to deal with in-wall speakers for the first time and it's in a room that's already built out. The issue is that once the TV & the speakers get placed, chances are that the perfect place for a speaker is going to be right on top of a stud. Or, that the symmetry around the TV will require at least one of the speakers to be installed where a stud currently lies.

So, while my contractor said it's not a big deal to cut the stud and reframe it around the speaker, the speaker salesman said that if you framed the entire speaker (sides & top) with a frame, that it will inhibit the surrounding airflow and impact the sound of the speaker. He said you really want the speaker to lie in the wall cavity between studs, so that you maximize airflow. He said that what you might need to do is drill a couple 2" diameter holes (for instance) in the upper and lower parts of the frame to provide access for airflow into the wall cavity.

Does this sound correct? It would be a lot simpler if you could just cut the stud, put the speaker where you want it to go, then add as much reinforcement is necessary to make sure the wall is still structurally sound.

Thanks!
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post #19835 of 25458 Old 11-12-2014, 08:20 AM
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Hi Seegs108,

Much changed between the 803D and the 803 Diamond (we refer to this internally as 803D2.)

The price increased to $10k USD per pair. The tweeter's surround and motor were redesigned for greater sensitivity and improved off-axis performance. The Rohacell bass drivers were improved for greater structural rigidity and the motor was redesigned, which means that they can bass with greater clarity under duress and lower levels of distortion.

803D was a great speaker. 803 Diamond improves on the strengths of an already great design for higher performance.

Cheers,

Patrick
B&W Group North America


Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post
I was curious if someone could point me in the right direction. I'm sure this questions has been asked a lot but I was curious about the differences between the generation one Diamond series and generation two Diamond series from B&W. Currently I'm looking into purchasing the 803D's. I see many for sale on the used market. Almost all of them are generation one diamonds. I noticed they dropped the price on the 803D2's when they came to market. While I like the aesthetic of the D2's better I'm just curious is the 803D1 is a better speaker? Is the drop in price an indication of a performance decrease or were they dropped in price simply to be more competitive in terms of value in their price class?
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post #19836 of 25458 Old 11-12-2014, 09:34 AM
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Well since we're discussing air, cavities and airflow... is there a rule of thumb for using/not using the foam inserts?

Gonzlobo (the peasant that has 'only' has 600-series)

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post #19837 of 25458 Old 11-12-2014, 04:12 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wadeh911 View Post
I had the same questions before I purchased my 803D1 fronts. Listened to both versions in a simple version blind test. Both sounded indistinguishable, same efficiency, same imaging to my ears so I am very happy with my decision.

B&W parts site has different part numbers for D1 and D2 crossover components and bass drivers and silver trim rings. Warranty replacement of a diamond tweeter had new D2 tweeter part number.

I really prefer the 803's in the Diamond series. Just listened to Stevie Ray vaughn, and now channel classics Budapest festival orchestra, and John Coltrane next. The 802's miss the boat with rock and roll compared to the 803's IMO.

Hope this is helpful.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Butler View Post
Hi Seegs108,

Much changed between the 803D and the 803 Diamond (we refer to this internally as 803D2.)

The price increased to $10k USD per pair. The tweeter's surround and motor were redesigned for greater sensitivity and improved off-axis performance. The Rohacell bass drivers were improved for greater structural rigidity and the motor was redesigned, which means that they can bass with greater clarity under duress and lower levels of distortion.

803D was a great speaker. 803 Diamond improves on the strengths of an already great design for higher performance.

Cheers,

Patrick
B&W Group North America
Thanks for the replies! I think I'll wait it out for a decent pair of used 803D2's to hit the market. I like the aesthetic quite a bit more and I'm not in a huge rush to purchase them.
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post #19838 of 25458 Old 11-12-2014, 04:34 PM
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803D2 Question

New guy here, long time B&W believer, so hello to everyone....

Just picked up a new rig and am a combination of confused and disappointed.

Got the Mcintosh MC 402 with the C46 Preamp. Hooked up the 803D2's on the 8 ohm taps, bi-wired with high quality Monster Cable.

Removed from the room a pair of Wharfedale PI-40 floor standers that had been powered by (at various times) a Marantz 2385, 200 WPC Mac and a 270 WPC Mac.

Wharfedale quotes 89 do sensitivity and Bowers quotes 90 db. So, neglible difference there.

Here's the problem... The Wharfedales played MUCH louder than the 803's are doing right now. Even when being fed by the Marantz 2285 (rated 85 WPC, reality probably 120) I couldn't turn the knob past 50%.

With the MC 402 (rated 400 WPC, reality probably 500) I can take the volume to 85% and it's not as loud as the old rig at less than 50%.

I'm really disappointed as I expected this rig to drive me out of the room at 50%.

Any input / thoughts / suggestions appreciated.
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post #19839 of 25458 Old 11-12-2014, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahiles View Post
New guy here, long time B&W believer, so hello to everyone....

Just picked up a new rig and am a combination of confused and disappointed.

Got the Mcintosh MC 402 with the C46 Preamp. Hooked up the 803D2's on the 8 ohm taps, bi-wired with high quality Monster Cable.

Removed from the room a pair of Wharfedale PI-40 floor standers that had been powered by (at various times) a Marantz 2385, 200 WPC Mac and a 270 WPC Mac.

Wharfedale quotes 89 do sensitivity and Bowers quotes 90 db. So, neglible difference there.

Here's the problem... The Wharfedales played MUCH louder than the 803's are doing right now. Even when being fed by the Marantz 2285 (rated 85 WPC, reality probably 120) I couldn't turn the knob past 50%.

With the MC 402 (rated 400 WPC, reality probably 500) I can take the volume to 85% and it's not as loud as the old rig at less than 50%.

I'm really disappointed as I expected this rig to drive me out of the room at 50%.

Any input / thoughts / suggestions appreciated.
Have you tried the 4 Ohm tap on the MC amp? The 803D2 is 3.0 ohms min.
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post #19840 of 25458 Old 11-13-2014, 05:42 AM
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Hi Gonzlobo,

I love the 600 Series. Huge value for the money.

When to use the foam inserts- in general, anytime a speaker is near a wall there is a tendency to really boost upper bass frequencies (a function of room acoustics.) This can cause the system to sound overly thick, and clarity can suffer. If you feel that this is happening, try using the foam inserts. Heck, you might want to try them anyway to get a handle on what they do to the sound of your speakers.

Cheers,

Patrick


Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzlobo View Post
Well since we're discussing air, cavities and airflow... is there a rule of thumb for using/not using the foam inserts?

Gonzlobo (the peasant that has 'only' has 600-series)
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post #19841 of 25458 Old 11-13-2014, 05:48 AM
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Hi tahiles,

Thank you for purchasing 803 Diamond. Taking a look at your scenario, the only explanation for your speakers not playing as loud as your previous speakers is that something has malfunctioned (either in the electronics, speakers, or wiring.) I would contact your dealer for some troubleshooting expertise.

Regards,

Patrick Butler
B&W Group North America


Quote:
Originally Posted by tahiles View Post
New guy here, long time B&W believer, so hello to everyone....

Just picked up a new rig and am a combination of confused and disappointed.

Got the Mcintosh MC 402 with the C46 Preamp. Hooked up the 803D2's on the 8 ohm taps, bi-wired with high quality Monster Cable.

Removed from the room a pair of Wharfedale PI-40 floor standers that had been powered by (at various times) a Marantz 2385, 200 WPC Mac and a 270 WPC Mac.

Wharfedale quotes 89 do sensitivity and Bowers quotes 90 db. So, neglible difference there.

Here's the problem... The Wharfedales played MUCH louder than the 803's are doing right now. Even when being fed by the Marantz 2285 (rated 85 WPC, reality probably 120) I couldn't turn the knob past 50%.

With the MC 402 (rated 400 WPC, reality probably 500) I can take the volume to 85% and it's not as loud as the old rig at less than 50%.

I'm really disappointed as I expected this rig to drive me out of the room at 50%.

Any input / thoughts / suggestions appreciated.
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post #19842 of 25458 Old 11-13-2014, 06:18 AM
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anyone here heard speakers with a raal tweeter(something like ascend sierra, salk speakers) and care to comment on how they compare with the b&w CM series?
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post #19843 of 25458 Old 11-13-2014, 10:07 AM
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bw 804

Hello all, I just ran into trouble using a new pair of speakers with a denon 4520, I used to have this amp running with a pair of 805 for front speakers a htm4 and two bose speaker for surround, this use to work fine. I recently bought a pair of 804 diamond speakers for the front and send the old 805 for surround, this worked fine for a run test for a couple of hours at -10 volume and then the amp protected itself and I have been unable to reset the amp from protection mode 8 already send it to denon for a revision its still in waranty) I tried to reset the amp with no speakers connected with no luck.

The question is this a good combination 804d 805s htc4 nd a bw subwoofer with the denon 4520ci, my next step was to try biamp for front speakers but that will have to wait till I get my denon back
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post #19844 of 25458 Old 11-14-2014, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahiles View Post

I'm really disappointed as I expected this rig to drive me out of the room at 50%.

Any input / thoughts / suggestions appreciated.
Do you still have the Wharfedales and/or other speakers (apart from the 803 Diamond) ? If yes, hook these up to your McIntosh amps.

Or vice versa, if you still have the old amps, hook up your 803 Diamonds to them and let us know the result.
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post #19845 of 25458 Old 11-14-2014, 08:04 AM
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What's a reasonable % off I can expect to get if I was to buy a CM5S2 CMC2S2 set from BB or my audio dealer?

home theater addict
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post #19846 of 25458 Old 11-14-2014, 12:23 PM
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in my experience, nothing, unless you go to a magnolia design center - they are able to negotiate whereas at a best buy magnolia home theater (different than a design center) the only thing they can do is use price matching to discount a small amount for you. always worth asking though.

I paid 750 for my cmc2 (s1) as it was open box and I got a small break through bargaining. my CM10s though were brand new in the box (again S1) and I got those for $2400 and that was at a design center...
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post #19847 of 25458 Old 11-14-2014, 12:43 PM
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bi wire cables (single amp to double speaker) CM10s

so I have some cables that are two connections on amp side and four on the speaker side for my CM10s and I have been using them without the jumpers on the CM10s that came with the speakers. I understand perhaps the jumpers should be left in place? I have done a little bi-amp (not a proper one but the newbie kind ) and I found the bass in the CM10s was kind of thumpy sounding and out of sync with the rest of my system but that could be due to other setup changes.

i am looking for anyone who has experience running their own cables that may have 4 individual solid copper insulated strands and how the best way would be to hook them up.
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post #19848 of 25458 Old 11-14-2014, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by saprano View Post
What's a reasonable % off I can expect to get if I was to buy a CM5S2 CMC2S2 set from BB or my audio dealer?
My local dealer almost always gives 10% off if you ask...

Panasonic TC-P60ST60, Pioneer SC-1523-K, Oppo BDP-103D, Pioneer PL-550 + Cambridge Audio Azur 640P, B&W CM1 (fronts), B&W CM Centre, Athena Point 5 Mk II (rears), Hsu VTF-2
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post #19849 of 25458 Old 11-14-2014, 02:32 PM
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CM5 vs CM1s2 for surround duties and multi channel audio music

hi guys - i am trying to snake a deal on some CM speakers to round out my 5.2 set up (cm10s, CMC2 and dual svs sb2000) and I have the option to grab some cm5 rosenuts (rest of my gear is piano black) for about 900 (open box just a few scratches) or I could get brand new CM1 s2s for about 1000 dolllars.

which would you choose given music not movies is main focus for me. I thought cm5 would be a better buy but i am not sure how improved the s2 version of hte cm1 is.

Other option would be to pony up for cm5s2 in matching gloss black for 1600 brand new.

Thoughts?
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post #19850 of 25458 Old 11-14-2014, 03:47 PM
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hi guys - i am trying to snake a deal on some CM speakers to round out my 5.2 set up (cm10s, CMC2 and dual svs sb2000) and I have the option to grab some cm5 rosenuts (rest of my gear is piano black) for about 900 (open box just a few scratches) or I could get brand new CM1 s2s for about 1000 dolllars.

which would you choose given music not movies is main focus for me. I thought cm5 would be a better buy but i am not sure how improved the s2 version of hte cm1 is.

Other option would be to pony up for cm5s2 in matching gloss black for 1600 brand new.

Thoughts?
The CM 1 compared to the CM 5 is small, confined, reduced frequency response. If you have the choice, I would go for the CM 5 every time.

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post #19851 of 25458 Old 11-14-2014, 08:28 PM
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I was looking at 685s and cm1s for a good deal and my boy at MDC was able to find brand new CM5s for 1000 so I am taking him up on it. They should arrive sometime next week. That leaves me with CM10s cmc2 and cm5 for surround. Add in my svs sb2000s and I think I just satisfied my upgrade bug.... For now
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post #19852 of 25458 Old 11-14-2014, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by pickering.tim View Post
I was looking at 685s and cm1s for a good deal and my boy at MDC was able to find brand new CM5s for 1000 so I am taking him up on it. They should arrive sometime next week. That leaves me with CM10s cmc2 and cm5 for surround. Add in my svs sb2000s and I think I just satisfied my upgrade bug.... For now
Nice score for a brand new pair. These are the CM5 s1s?

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post #19853 of 25458 Old 11-14-2014, 10:22 PM
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yea everything is "s1" or just plain CM if you will. I am sure I am missing out on some of the improvements of the s2 line in the cm5 and cmc2 but not so much with the cm10s. at least that is what i understand from my limited knowledge/experience.

edit - everything below this line is essentially verbal spewing with some advice needed sprinkled in so feel free to skip it

My biggest obstacle is a oddly shaped room with a vent pass smack in the middle stretching from left to right wall where my only realistic options are to have the MLP just in front (6 feet or so from the tv) or just behind it 9( or more feet) from tv. the change in sound due to the this lower hanging vent pass is pretty significant. In addition it also carries air of course and when the HVAC comes on it is quite loud. the entire heating and air system sits behind my right wall and there are two doors with vented panels as well as an entire wall with zero insulation. I am renting so work on that area is hard to justify....

however - i understand how beneficial some acoustic treatment could be to this room and setup and now with the package of speakers (assuming my sr5009 from marantz is plenty of juice for multi channel surround sound music and the UD7007 has to be good enough source quality) i have no more excuses not to spend some time thinking about positioning and maybe temp treatments/furniture adjustments to help out the situation.

Any ideas on buffering the sounds from the hvac unit?

Also - anyone have suggestions for whether I should go with the smaller/closer to the tv setup for MLP vs the behind the vent pass setup? my room is a 17 X17 X8.5 with the vent pass being a full foot if not just more extending down about 10feet from front wall. it is about 3 feet in width so essentially the vent pass is 3X 1 X 17. Also the right rear of the room opens up half way across the rear wall to a bathroom and stair well so the right wall is almost double in length then the left if that makes sense.

right now I am going to set things up this way and see what happens:
Cm10 front L and R: 18 inches from front wall
Cmc2 center: 12 inches from back wall directly under the television
CM5s (when they arrive) I will hope to find decent stands for and put them directly left and right of MLP (about 6 feet in each direction)
Svs SB200s: since I have 2 of these I will sub crawl now that the wife is asleep and no one is here to laugh at me for the placement of these but so far it appears right under the vent pass to the left and right of MLP gives me the best bass in current setup.

MLP will be about 7 feet from front left and right speakers and closer to 8 from the center - and front left and right are sitting just over 6 feet apart from each other centered around the tv and slightly forward - towing them in just a bit because my whole setup is closer to right wall then left and cant do much about that.

love to hear ideas or obvious flaws in my process thus far but since i have asked a million times for help and gotten great feedback since i joined this forum i am feeling pretty good about some trial (listen) and error to try and get the mains/center and subs in the right spots before the cm5s show up to add to the mix.

picked up a Clapton blu ray (dts hd mater audio) which will help serve during guidance and because second to mark knopfler/dire straits Clapton's style of playing IMO is second to none...(I auditioned my CM10s with dire straits and listened to cm9 s2s with knopfler which helped push me over the edge of becoming a big fan of B&W sound. I have never heard a set of towers fill a room yet still sound so clean in my brief experience.
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post #19854 of 25458 Old 11-15-2014, 09:55 AM
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Your room presents some challenges. For one, it's square. One sub in this room is going to have some peaks/dips in response. Your 9 ft. MLP option will sit almost 50% back in the room. This is not typically a good location for bass performance. Add to that your HVAC and the 9ft. MLP doesn't look good so far.

The 6ft. option puts your MLP about 35% in to the room. This is usually a much better location for bass response. It also reduces the effect of the HVAC obstruction. If you could move your ears back to 6 1/2 ft. this would be optimum. The more "nearfield" nature of this MLP will reduce the effects your room will have on your front soundstage. It will also offer you a nice rear reverberation.

For these reasons I would start there and experiment with sub and L/R placement. Good luck.

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post #19855 of 25458 Old 11-15-2014, 10:06 AM
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thanks for responding - I have two subs (dual svs sb2000s) so that has been a bit tricky for me, but i think once i get them placed well it will provide a better overall bass for the room. right now the tv stand and front left and right speakers are 40 or so inches from the front wall. the tv and center sit back another 6 or so inches from the left and right speakers. L R are about 7 feet apart with my first sub on the right wall just to the right of the MLP which is about dead even with the front of the overhanging vent pass.

So from the MLP to the front wall is about 10 feet which puts it right at under the front of the vent pass which extends another 3 feet back and has about 4 feet behind it to the back wall.

Do you suggest 6 feet from front wall or from center speaker/tv? or 6 feet from front wall? either way I am going to be really really close my tv and and front left and right speakers are are going to be a bit wide i think for the length.

does that make sense or am i reading your response wrong?
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post #19856 of 25458 Old 11-15-2014, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by pickering.tim View Post
so I have some cables that are two connections on amp side and four on the speaker side for my CM10s and I have been using them without the jumpers on the CM10s that came with the speakers. I understand perhaps the jumpers should be left in place? I have done a little bi-amp (not a proper one but the newbie kind ) and I found the bass in the CM10s was kind of thumpy sounding and out of sync with the rest of my system but that could be due to other setup changes.

i am looking for anyone who has experience running their own cables that may have 4 individual solid copper insulated strands and how the best way would be to hook them up.

Sounds like you have Bi-wire cables. Leave the jumpers off.
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post #19857 of 25458 Old 11-15-2014, 10:39 AM
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I agree with fokakis1' assessment, i.e., 6ft for MLP. However, if you have a 50" screen or bigger that might be problematic regarding viewing distance.

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post #19858 of 25458 Old 11-15-2014, 01:12 PM
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speaker crackling noise on CM10s

so I have a 5.2 set up right now with CM10s as fronts, cmc2 as center and my older infinity alpha 50s as surrounds and I noticed after calibration using audyssey a crackling or fuzzy type noise coming from what appears to be the tweeter on the front right speaker. I did buy some audioquest type 4 cable from a roll and attached my own banana plugs by twisting together the hi and lo frequency cables to make only two connection points per speaker and on the amp side.

What would cause this crackling noise? I am hoping it is a bad connnection but when I adjusted the crossover from 60hz to 80hz on my fronts it appears to go away. it happens at moderate volume level so i doubt it is my reciever clipping but i guess it could be with four tower speakers in my 5.2 set up and a fairly heavy duty center?

what would cause a sound like this? it almost sounds like the pink noise generated during test tones but hard to tell.

thoughts? could i have blown the speaker or amp already?
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post #19859 of 25458 Old 11-15-2014, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by pickering.tim View Post
so I have a 5.2 set up right now with CM10s as fronts, cmc2 as center and my older infinity alpha 50s as surrounds and I noticed after calibration using audyssey a crackling or fuzzy type noise coming from what appears to be the tweeter on the front right speaker. I did buy some audioquest type 4 cable from a roll and attached my own banana plugs by twisting together the hi and lo frequency cables to make only two connection points per speaker and on the amp side.

What would cause this crackling noise? I am hoping it is a bad connnection but when I adjusted the crossover from 60hz to 80hz on my fronts it appears to go away. it happens at moderate volume level so i doubt it is my reciever clipping but i guess it could be with four tower speakers in my 5.2 set up and a fairly heavy duty center?

what would cause a sound like this? it almost sounds like the pink noise generated during test tones but hard to tell.

thoughts? could i have blown the speaker or amp already?
also i should add that it only seems to happen using hmdi from my blue ray player and when i switch to analog it goes away. i was listening to a blu ray concert recorded in dts master hd audio and i have yet to check other sources since i do not have any connected yet. could this be from a power cord or other speaker cable crossing the effected speaker cable? perhaps from my hhmi cable being too close to the back of my cm10 speaker during playback?
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post #19860 of 25458 Old 11-15-2014, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by pickering.tim View Post
in my experience, nothing, unless you go to a magnolia design center - they are able to negotiate whereas at a best buy magnolia home theater (different than a design center) the only thing they can do is use price matching to discount a small amount for you. always worth asking though.

I paid 750 for my cmc2 (s1) as it was open box and I got a small break through bargaining. my CM10s though were brand new in the box (again S1) and I got those for $2400 and that was at a design center...

interesting...I just had a different experience at a Magnolia Home Theater
They negotiated as I bought a full 5.1 system


I paid about the same about you did for the CMC2(s1)..open box...but I paid $1600 for a pair of CM10's( open box)


Warren

Rm 1 Samsung 65KS9800 Marantz 8802A prepro Sherbourn 5/1500A amp B&W CM10s..CM2 center...CM5's.rears
Rm 2 Vizio P50 Denon X4300 Celestion 305 speaker system
Rm 3 Samsung 55KS8000 Yamaha A1060 Kef 2005.2 speaker system
Rm 4 Vizio P50 Pioneer SC95 Mirage Omni sat speaker system
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