B&W Owner's Thread - Page 707 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #21181 of 21194 Unread 08-30-2015, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by blackjack616 View Post
Probably getting the 803 diamond (getting them at a very cheap price from a friend); what do you recommend to power them (the cheaper the better) but not so cheaper where it diminishes quality
Throwing a question like that out, you will get 20 different, all great, responses from 20 different people. There are also many variables to consider too that you don't mention....room size, room quality, average volume you listen at, type of music, price range, etc...

I have heard Emotiva with CM10s and 802 Diamonds and was not impressed at all. My friend who had the Emotiva stuff sent it back within the 30 day trial period and replaced it with Rotel and was much happier. I have no experience with Outlaw.

My vote would be the McIntosh MC452 stereo amp pumping out a rated 450 wpc of kick ass power.

I heard it with the 803s and 802s, using the 4 ohm binding posts with both, and it was outstanding.

Throw this guy out an offer of $4,800 or so and see what he says...

http://app.audiogon.com/listings/sol...ado-springs-co

I also know a McIntosh dealer that has a demo model MC452 with very low hours on it, I can message you his contact info if you are interested.

If that is out of your price range, Rotel is excellent quality at a lower price point than McIntosh. They just came out with a new stereo amp, RB-1590 at 350 wpc, MSRP is very reasonable $3,000. You can probably find a dealer offering 10% off list and get it for around $2,700. It would be an excellent choice for the 803 or 802, and a hell of a bang for the buck.

At the end of the day, take what we say with a grain of salt and get out there and audition for yourself....or better yet...get dealers to loan you stuff to try in your environment.
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B&W 802 Diamonds | McIntosh C500T tube pre-amp | McIntosh MC601 mono block amplifiers (2) | Oppo BDP-105 | SurgeX QX515 Surge Suppressor/Power Conditioner

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post #21182 of 21194 Unread 08-30-2015, 07:24 PM
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I have a friend driving his 803D's with XPA-1 monoblocks and he's happy with them. He was using an XPA-2, and that was fine as well, but decided to upgrade when the XPA-1's went on sale shortly after he purchased the XPA-2. There are lots of good amplifiers around...

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #21183 of 21194 Unread 08-31-2015, 09:20 AM
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Does anybody know what Amp class is this Amplifier - Roksan K3

http://www.whathifi.com/roksan/k3/review

Coz i bought this Amp for my CM9 s2.
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post #21184 of 21194 Unread 08-31-2015, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackjack616 View Post
I was thinking of emotiva or outlaw.. but i just don't know enough

I might end up getting 802 diamond, he's got them for sale too but a few thousand more
I have my 803's paired with a XPA-2 and it sounds great to my ears! Sure Mcintosh, Classe, or Rotel would probably sound better but for my budget Emotiva was a great option. I definitely don't feel like I am missing anything with the XPA-2.

Equipment list:
B&W 803d, Emotiva XSP-1, Emotiva XPA-2, Oppo 105, Project 2Xperience Classic, Panamax M5300-PM, Panasonic 60ST60
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post #21185 of 21194 Unread 08-31-2015, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edwin Tay View Post
Does anybody know what Amp class is this Amplifier - Roksan K3

http://www.whathifi.com/roksan/k3/review

Coz i bought this Amp for my CM9 s2.
Amplifiers referred to as "digital", such as the K3, are Class D amplifiers.

Here is a pretty detailed explanation....
http://www.axiomaudio.com/digital_amplifier

B&W 802 Diamonds | McIntosh C500T tube pre-amp | McIntosh MC601 mono block amplifiers (2) | Oppo BDP-105 | SurgeX QX515 Surge Suppressor/Power Conditioner

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post #21186 of 21194 Unread Yesterday, 12:18 PM
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This is a question for owners of the cm8, 9, and 10. I'm looking at upgrading from my 683 s2 to the cm10 s2. The question I have is, is the paper/Kevlar woofers fragile? It seems the phase plug or cap that on them would be so easy to dent in. Why would the 600 series use aluminum and the cm use paper/Kevlar? Is it better at producing lower frequencies?
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post #21187 of 21194 Unread Yesterday, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironsurvivor View Post
This is a question for owners of the cm8, 9, and 10. I'm looking at upgrading from my 683 s2 to the cm10 s2. The question I have is, is the paper/Kevlar woofers fragile? It seems the phase plug or cap that on them would be so easy to dent in. Why would the 600 series use aluminum and the cm use paper/Kevlar? Is it better at producing lower frequencies?
I owned 600 series speakers, CM9s and CM10s and never found the bass or mid-range drivers to be "fragile".

B&W 802 Diamonds | McIntosh C500T tube pre-amp | McIntosh MC601 mono block amplifiers (2) | Oppo BDP-105 | SurgeX QX515 Surge Suppressor/Power Conditioner
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post #21188 of 21194 Unread Yesterday, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironsurvivor View Post
This is a question for owners of the cm8, 9, and 10. I'm looking at upgrading from my 683 s2 to the cm10 s2. The question I have is, is the paper/Kevlar woofers fragile? It seems the phase plug or cap that on them would be so easy to dent in. Why would the 600 series use aluminum and the cm use paper/Kevlar? Is it better at producing lower frequencies?
The very first pair of B&W's (and the last as I've never had the $ or space to do larger than bookshelves justice) were (are) some DM600s3's.

Going on their 12th year with me I've never really had a problem listening without the ASW600. Would I like a larger bass presence? Definitely! These things are only 5½ inch woofers.

But the bass they give, they give in spades.

Came home one night to my Cambridge 640V2 amp cranked 11-an un listenable volume for me. But turning down there treble control on the Cambridge got rid of the piercing highs (but still too loud for me) revealed tight (plugs always inserted) and accurate bass, the woofers weren't even breaking a sweat.

Cranking the bass knob started to introduce some nasty at around 75%, but this was the amp I'm sure. While rated at 75 watts, and said to give the performance of higher power amps, when artificially raising the base it started to lose control.

This was all at max volume mind you. I can take a video tomorrow of me poking the cone's if you wish.

Regards, (for the vast majority of people :-p)

Steve
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post #21189 of 21194 Unread Yesterday, 08:37 PM
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Noob question can 684 s1 be set to small with a crossover of 60hz or is 80hz optimal?!!
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post #21190 of 21194 Unread Yesterday, 11:24 PM
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New 801N owner here and I was wondering if anyone is bi-amping their speakers and what crossover are you guys using?

Mitsubish WD65C9 Oppo BPP-103 Aios Pivos Marantz AV7005 Emotiva XPA-5 Klipsch RF-82, RC-64, RS-52 2x Epik Empire

AT-LP60 Cambridge Audio Azur 551P Oppo BPP-103 Audio GD NFB-17.32 Audio GD NFB-6 Emotiva XPA-1 Magnepan 3.6R, HiFiman HE-5
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post #21191 of 21194 Unread Yesterday, 11:28 PM
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Noob question can 684 s1 be set to small with a crossover of 60hz or is 80hz optimal?!!
Whatever sounds best to you!

You'll want to check the manual as well. I think the lower bass port is ~30hz with the plug.

I'd probably go small with any HT type use, and large with music. But this really depends on your sub, your musical taste, your room, etc, etc.

With a 10 minute AVR calibration for both (if your AVR can use different profiles in a non rocket science manner), I'd just trust my ears.

Regards, (for the vast majority of people :-p)

Steve
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post #21192 of 21194 Unread Today, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by orthikon View Post
New 801N owner here and I was wondering if anyone is bi-amping their speakers and what crossover are you guys using?
Are you removing the built-in crossover? If not, adding another set of electronic filters is thorny.

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post #21193 of 21194 Unread Today, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironsurvivor View Post
This is a question for owners of the cm8, 9, and 10. I'm looking at upgrading from my 683 s2 to the cm10 s2. The question I have is, is the paper/Kevlar woofers fragile? It seems the phase plug or cap that on them would be so easy to dent in. Why would the 600 series use aluminum and the cm use paper/Kevlar? Is it better at producing lower frequencies?
Thought about this more. Are you talking about the phase plug itself, or the actual cone?

"When a dust cover isn't just a dust cover....." mushroom shaped plug does look to be a bit more fragile than any bullet shape, but you shouldn't be poking it with your finger. :d

As far as the paper/kevlar vs aluminum cone I'd say the kevlar is durable. It also has features like no surround, different voice coil/plug, etc, that the aluminum driver doesn't have.

Basically it isn't just material. The current kevlar drivers have newer/better technology than the aluminum drivers, which are basically conventional loudspeaker tech.

Regards, (for the vast majority of people :-p)

Steve
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post #21194 of 21194 Unread Today, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceberg86300 View Post
Thought about this more. Are you talking about the phase plug itself, or the actual cone?

"When a dust cover isn't just a dust cover....." mushroom shaped plug does look to be a bit more fragile than any bullet shape, but you shouldn't be poking it with your finger. :d
Dust covers are usually attached to the voice coil and inner diameter of the cone and, therefore, are part of the moving mass. The central plug, regardless of the shape, is usually mounted to the pole-piece of the magnet and is fixed in position. Its shape can play some role.

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802D , atmos , B W , Bowers And Wilkings 685 Speakers , carver cm-1090
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