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985K views 8K replies 785 participants last post by  d.a.v.e 
#1 ·
Hey all,


Since the master Definitive thread is upwards of 90 pages, I thought we could dedicate a thread to the ProCinema series owners. I personally just bought the 600 series (comes with ProSub 600 8").


Thus far, I've rewatched Gladiator in surround sound and it sounds pretty impressive. I've also played Call of Duty 2 on my Xbox 360 and the gunshots and grenades come from all over the place utilizing all the 5.1 speakers... intense!! That was actually a better use than Gladiator. I also watched 5.1 baseball on ESPN HD and you can hear the crowd noise coming from the surrounds.


I plan to ceiling mount the surrounds at least so I'm currently looking for ceiling mounts... any suggestions?


Let's hear what Procinema setups you all have ... I think DT makes some great speakers. I had never heard of them until about a month ago, but now, I'm a convert!
 
#4,949 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidState /forum/post/19298772


Okay, I have had a chance to audition several of the DefTech speakers at my local Magnolia yesterday and I was impressed! I tried out almost all of their speakers from the PM1000's, the SM350s (no 450s), the C/L/R 2002 and the BP8060s. I fell in love with the 8060s! I was also impressed with the PM1000s ability to go LOUD without distortion. These were all playing thru a 3007 crossed over at 80hz(THX). I did have a question. Is it possible to mix and match some of their different lines of speakers? I'm thinking that to get what I want out of my system, I may want to go with 8060s for my fronts, with a PM2000 center (I need to be able to wall mount with articulation, which rules out the CLR2002, right?) and the PC1000s as surrounds. Are these speakers all timbre-matched? Is this a feasible plan?

Ok, how about this, do PC2000's all around, the speakers is not just a center speaker, it doesn't know that upfront. This way you get all on walls , the PM1000 is the same speaker expect the PC2000 it has one more 5.25" driver and one more radiator its almost like butting two 1000's tail to tail. The PC is wall mountable, might be worth your consideration and would be very easy on the wallet.


Yes the PC2000 could go with the 8060 more because the drivers are most alike vs the older type in the 2002
 
#4,950 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemsonChad /forum/post/19296810


Hey all -


I almost pushed the purchase button on some Polk Monitor 70's (and even Rti A5's, which I've heard are great towers) before getting the significant other's opinion which pushed me back to bookshelves.



After doing a heap of reading on here, I anticipate getting the following:


Pioneer VSX-1120-K for my AVR

Def Tech PM2000 for my center

Def Tech PM1000's for my L and R


What do you guys think of this setup with a 16' x 13' room (carpet) and 10' ceilings? I have a 58 Samsung PN58B860 that I likely will run through the receiver. Is the Pio a good choice, or should I get a Denon?


I also want to get two surrounds and a sub (5.1 setup)? Any suggestions?


I'm coming from an eight year old Onkyo HTIB and I'm what you would call an extreme newbie in the HT world, so any help would be appreciated! Oh, and my use will be 80% blue ray and PS3 games and 20% music.


Thanks.

As for what brand of AVR that's more of which features you want, BUT I do recommend paying attention the the calibration system used by each AVR. I think Audyssey gives the best room correction and extra audio improvments out there use the MultiEQ level or higher. Pioneer is a very good AVR and has a very rep as well, but the cal system is its weaklink IMHO. Before you buy anAVR go to Audyssey.com and see how many brands have chosen it for there AVR's. Audyssey also calibrates your sub in that room which is a big advantage to getting the very best from your sub.


You did not say anything about a sub did you? Don't look at the Prosub line, its not the best DT has to offer


The PM1000 and PC2000 is a very good choice for that sized room, are these speakers going to be in this room for a long time. I'm asking because if you plan to change rooms or move soon, other DT options may want to be considered. Anyway, if this is there home I'd suggest the BP2X's for the rears they will give your space the best coverage and if you do move they are very good about making odd shaped rooms [rear wall has no corners or is open to another room] work better. I had the PM1000 as rears and changed to the BP2X's, the differnce is amazing you feel like you are in a real theater not your home.
 
#4,951 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plex /forum/post/19300209


As for what brand of AVR that's more of which features you want, BUT I do recommend paying attention the the calibration system used by each AVR. I think Audyssey gives the best room correction and extra audio improvments out there use the MultiEQ level or higher. Pioneer is a very good AVR and has a very rep as well, but the cal system is its weaklink IMHO. Before you buy anAVR go to Audyssey.com and see how many brands have chosen it for there AVR's. Audyssey also calibrates your sub in that room which is a big advantage to getting the very best from your sub.


You did not say anything about a sub did you? Don't look at the Prosub line, its not the best DT has to offer


The PM1000 and PC2000 is a very good choice for that sized room, are these speakers going to be in this room for a long time. I'm asking because if you plan to change rooms or move soon, other DT options may want to be considered. Anyway, if this is there home I'd suggest the BP2X's for the rears they will give your space the best coverage and if you do move they are very good about making odd shaped rooms [rear wall has no corners or is open to another room] work better. I had the PM1000 as rears and changed to the BP2X's, the differnce is amazing you feel like you are in a real theater not your home.

Thanks. I will go check out the AVR that use Audyssey. Are there any particular ones you'd recommend for my setup that would be comparable to the Pioneer 1120 (e.g., Denon)?


I'm honestly not sure how long they will be in this room, but I'd think for at least another three-five years. As I said in my earlier post, I really like the looks of the towers (I like the Polk Rti A5's or M70's) but also like the thought of having great sound with something that looks more sleek and takes up less space. Of course, I'll definitely need to upgrade my sub? Any suggestions there?


I'll definitely go for the BP2X's for the surrounds if you think they are worth it. Thanks again for the help.
 
#4,952 ·
So I've had my DT's for about a month now and I caught the upgrade bug (right now its just a cold, not flu) and I'm looking at towers to replace my current R/L speakers. I currently have in the room


Center - PC1000

Front R/L - PM1000

H R/L - PM1000

Surround- BP2X

Rear - BP2X

Sub - Pro1000


I believe I've read enough at this point to know that I should be matching the mid drivers. If that is a true statement I'm looking at the Mythos 1 or the 7004 towers. I plan on picking up a PC2000 before the towers or at the same time.


I'm in love with the current system don't get me wrong but I would like to try front wide so i'm thinking of using my current fronts for the job. My tuner is an Onkyo TXNR1008 9.2, and while I cant run 11.2 I can wire for it, just have to select it.


So finally the question, are the speakers I selected the correct options or when it comes to towers the mids can be smaller due to there being more then one?
 
#4,953 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemsonChad /forum/post/19300491


Thanks. I will go check out the AVR that use Audyssey. Are there any particular ones you'd recommend for my setup that would be comparable to the Pioneer 1120 (e.g., Denon)?


I'm honestly not sure how long they will be in this room, but I'd think for at least another three-five years. As I said in my earlier post, I really like the looks of the towers (I like the Polk Rti A5's or M70's) but also like the thought of having great sound with something that looks more sleek and takes up less space. Of course, I'll definitely need to upgrade my sub? Any suggestions there?


I'll definitely go for the BP2X's for the surrounds if you think they are worth it. Thanks again for the help.

Yes the 2X's will out last most any DT speaker you'll buy from these to even your next upgrade.


I think the 3311 is very simlar, if your not set on 3D the 3310 is still on the market. Go to electronics expo they have the lowest Denon prices on the interent and are authorize dealers of Denon. A new onwer got a quote from EE for the 3311 at $815 and went to BB and they matched it, so try if you want to buy local. Also Onkyo has very good AVR's 708 or 808 may be a bit cheaper.


I like the SM450's they are an upgrade from the PM series and they can give tower sound without a ton of space. I run the 450 with PC2000 and 2X's rears is a 13x21x8 room using the Denon 3808, yes I did buy an SVS sub. My system is very impressive even though its not all that big, and I can't see any reason to upgrade [the center only]. If you are looking for a setup that will work in your room and even a larger space that will not break the bank


So, the SM series is another option


If you want to save a bit more you could get factory referbs and save more, just like buying used but much better.
 
#4,954 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plex /forum/post/19304804


Yes the 2X's will out last most any DT speaker you'll buy from these to even your next upgrade.


I think the 3311 is very simlar, if your not set on 3D the 3310 is still on the market. Go to electronics expo they have the lowest Denon prices on the interent and are authorize dealers of Denon. I new onwer got a quote from EE for the 3311 at $815 and went to BB and they matched it, so try if you want to buy local. Also Onkyo has very good AVR's 708 or 808 may be a bit cheaper.


I like the SM450's they are an upgrade from the PM series and they can give tower sound without a ton of space. I run the 450 with PC2000 and 2X's rears is a 13x21x8 room using the Denon 3808, yes I did buy an SVS sub. My system is very impressive even though its not all that big, and I can't see any reason to upgrade [the center only]. If you are looking for a setup that will work in your room and even a larger space that will not breaker the bank


So, the SM series is another option


If you want to save a bit more you could get factiry referbs and save more, just like buying used but much better.

I'm that guy!
I bought my AVR-3311CI from BB about 2 weeks ago (still in box) and waiting to finish the work on the room it will be going into. BB discounted it for me then. However, as noted there is a price on bensbargains.net for the 3311CI from Electronics Expo with a coupon code to get the price mentioned above. Not wanting to return the AVR to BB, I called the salesman I've been working with and told him about the deal at EE. He spoke to his manager and came back to tell me they'd match it and issue me a credit. At that price, I'd suggest its a steal and spec wise better than the Pioneer, especially for the Audyssey calibration capability.


As to Plex's suggestion about speakers (he's our resident expert), based on my listening habits and room dimensions, he guided me to several options. Having listened to the Cinema Pro Series 600 and 800s, I decided those didn't appeal to my ears. I then listened to the 350s and the 2002 center. AH, music to my ears (so to speak). So, I've ended up with 450s for the front, 2002 for the center (BB had it for a steal if they still have them), 350s for the surrounds and the Supercube III for the sub. I have all but the sub setup in a current room with a Sony receiver. Wow, I can tell you that that they sound like speakers that are physically larger at a larger price. I've had those larger and larger price speakers before and can tell you these measure up and then some! If you can find a BB with the 350s go have a listen. They don't carry 450s otherwise I'd suggest that. And btw, I was close to buying the PB2x's but decided not to in the end because of my room configuration and challenging wall situation. Otherwise I would have bought those instead of the 350s. Both the 450s and 350s are on DT stands.


Do yourself a favor and spend some time listening and considering the options. Don't rush into it. With Plex's guidance, having listened to some of these and plenty of reading, I'm confident I've got a setup I'll be pleased with for quite some time.
 
#4,955 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by kapfel /forum/post/19301097


So I've had my DT's for about a month now and I caught the upgrade bug (right now its just a cold, not flu) and I'm looking at towers to replace my current R/L speakers. I currently have in the room


Center - PC1000

Front R/L - PM1000

H R/L - PM1000

Surround- BP2X

Rear - BP2X

Sub - Pro1000


I believe I've read enough at this point to know that I should be matching the mid drivers. If that is a true statement I'm looking at the Mythos 1 or the 7004 towers. I plan on picking up a PC2000 before the towers or at the same time.


I'm in love with the current system don't get me wrong but I would like to try front wide so i'm thinking of using my current fronts for the job. My tuner is an Onkyo TXNR1008 9.2, and while I cant run 11.2 I can wire for it, just have to select it.


So finally the question, are the speakers I selected the correct options or when it comes to towers the mids can be smaller due to there being more then one?

Hey kapfel,


I'm all for upgrading to the PC2000 that should have been sold with that system to start with. However, I would like to throw out another idea. I have a 7.2 setup right now and while I have never noticed 7 speakers to be a big difference over 5, I have though noticed a huge difference by adding a identical subwoofer into the mix. By experimenting with room placement, I have a night a day difference in the smoothness on the bass (horrible room modes almost eliminated.) and the consistency of the bass one hears from seat to seat.


I'd give up my towers for satellites way before I'd give up my second sub.
 
#4,956 ·
The second Sub is in the works. I've pretty much reached the can't buy anything without wife approval stage due to the holiday right around the corner. The sub has made number one on my Christmas list and my wife has already asked for a link to purchase it. I hate waiting but then I don't have to hear how I'm impossible to shop for =)


The tower idea is simply to enable me to move the fronts to front wide and replace the hole with some thing with a little more power
 
#4,957 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by kapfel /forum/post/19306721


The second Sub is in the works. I've pretty much reached the can't buy anything without wife approval stage due to the holiday right around the corner. The sub has made number one on my Christmas list and my wife has already asked for a link to purchase it. I hate waiting but then I don't have to hear how I'm impossible to shop for =)


The tower idea is simply to enable me to move the fronts to front wide and replace the hole with some thing with a little more power

Sounds good.
I've A/B'd my BP8 towers to my PM1000's and I gotta say with a sub/subs doing the heavy lifting the tower upgrade seems to be more justified for someone doing a lot of 2 channel music listening rather than movies. Of course I'm a cheapskate so I really have to hear a good difference to justify such upgrades.
 
#4,958 ·
I went to my local BB with my music in hand and re-auditioned their DT's. Initially, I was in love with the 8060, but upon further listening I went with the 8040. To my ear, the 8040's were a bit less harsh and had a warmer bass. This was tough for me to believe since I'm of the school of thought that "the more the better". I also purchased two PM1000's for testing (PC2000's have to be ordered, which I will soon), to be used as rears. I will be hooking this stuff up later this evening with a night of auditioning in my home. I now realize that with the 8040's, my mid-drivers will not be matching (the 8040 has 3.5" drivers), and I'm struggling to figure out how to match my towers with surrounds/centers. Any suggestions? I'm really trying to timbre-match everything, and I have 30 days to audition my PM1000's.


Also, is it possible that the 8060's I listened to in the store weren't indicative of that model? It was tough going with 8" woofers over the 10" of the 8060's!


Thanks!
 
#4,959 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidState /forum/post/19298580


Todd,


I posted 120hz before I double-checked my settings. The most recent speaker frying was at 200hz (it won't go any higher).


For the most part you're right: most of the time my speakers have blown was in 2.1 mode. That wasn't by choice but by necessity of the 5007. I DJ, and having my CDJ turntables hooked (thru my Pioneer mixer) up to my 5007 in ANY mode but Direct or Pure causes severe delays from what my headphones play (from the Pio mixer) and what the speakers output. Seriously, this delay was on the order of 300-500ms depending on the DSP setting. Only Direct and Pure fixed the delay issue. Before I discovered the fix to the delay, I blew 4 speakers in All Ch Stereo mode. I don't remember what the channel levels were at, but my check yesterday of my levels were:


L: -3.0db

C: -5.0db

R: -5.0db


and I haven't touched the channel levels in AGES. Also, I don't have a SPL, so I can't provide that info.


Todd
Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidState /forum/post/19308314


I went to my local BB with my music in hand and re-auditioned their DT's. Initially, I was in love with the 8060, but upon further listening I went with the 8040. To my ear, the 8040's were a bit less harsh and had a warmer bass. This was tough for me to believe since I'm of the school of thought that "the more the better". I also purchased two PM1000's for testing (PC2000's have to be ordered, which I will soon), to be used as rears. I will be hooking this stuff up later this evening with a night of auditioning in my home. I now realize that with the 8040's, my mid-drivers will not be matching (the 8040 has 3.5" drivers), and I'm struggling to figure out how to match my towers with surrounds/centers. Any suggestions? I'm really trying to timbre-match everything, and I have 30 days to audition my PM1000's.


Also, is it possible that the 8060's I listened to in the store weren't indicative of that model? It was tough going with 8" woofers over the 10" of the 8060's!


Thanks!

I must say that anything other then 3 identical speakers across the front is a compromise. That being said, my BP8 bipolar towers do not share the BDSS drivers my monopole PC2000 center has and yet they still sound good together, I think the DT's are as timber matched as they can be even if they have different drivers.


As to the 8040's sounding less harsh with better bass then the 8060's, that's easy to explain. Those are brand new models and all DT's sound harsh and lean until a good 40-80Hr break-in period. I suspect the 40's just had been broke in more. 3.5" drivers in a $1600 a pair tower?


Two of these with a pair of PM1000's would crush those towers for less $: http://www.epiksubwoofers.com/legend.html


just saying
 
#4,960 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by toddRiffic /forum/post/19309316


I must say that anything other then 3 identical speakers across the front is a compromise. That being said, my BP8 bipolar towers do not share the BDSS drivers my monopole PC2000 center has and yet they still sound good together, I think the DT's are as timber matched as they can be even if they have different drivers.


As to the 8040's sounding less harsh with better bass then the 8060's, that's easy to explain. Those are brand new models and all DT's sound harsh and lean until a good 40-80Hr break-in period. I suspect the 40's just had been broke in more. 3.5" drivers in a $1600 a pair tower?


Two of these with a pair of PM1000's would crush those towers for less $: http://www.epiksubwoofers.com/legend.html


just saying

Todd,


I checked out that link...very tempting. Is this a new company? Has anyone actually auditioned these subs?


Incidentally, I hooked up my 8040's last night and cranked them up. Boy, do they sound sweet! Unfortunately, I don't know if I'm going to be able to keep them. The bipolar design has me concerned. I live right by the beach and consequently, our houses are stacked on top of each other. While I have awesome neighbors, the sound leak from these speakers is WAY more than my previous ones, mainly because there are drivers firing right a the walls (i.e. firing right towards my neighbor's house). I also have a pair of the PM1000's, so I'm going to hook those up as my fronts with my Totem sub and see how that sounds. I'm really trying to balance a good, loud, clean system with a healthy respect for my neighbors. I DO love those 40's, though!


If I like the way the PM1000's sound as mains, I'll probably end up ordering 5 PC2000's from BB and go crazy. Decisions, decisions!!


Todd
 
#4,961 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidState /forum/post/19312105


Todd,


I checked out that link...very tempting. Is this a new company? Has anyone actually auditioned these subs?


Incidentally, I hooked up my 8040's last night and cranked them up. Boy, do they sound sweet! Unfortunately, I don't know if I'm going to be able to keep them. The bipolar design has me concerned. I live right by the beach and consequently, our houses are stacked on top of each other. While I have awesome neighbors, the sound leak from these speakers is WAY more than my previous ones, mainly because there are drivers firing right a the walls (i.e. firing right towards my neighbor's house). I also have a pair of the PM1000's, so I'm going to hook those up as my fronts with my Totem sub and see how that sounds. I'm really trying to balance a good, loud, clean system with a healthy respect for my neighbors. I DO love those 40's, though!


If I like the way the PM1000's sound as mains, I'll probably end up ordering 5 PC2000's from BB and go crazy. Decisions, decisions!!


Todd

I don't have first hand experience with them, but given what those 8040 cost and what you are looking to do, the two epiks with PM1000's seems like a better solution. A pro reviewer Steve Guttenburg called another Epik model 'The king Kong of affordable subwoofers". All the internet direct subwoofer brands Elemental Designs/HSU/SVS/Epik are tough to beat at there game, they typically embarrass retail subs costing much more. The official Epik sub thread here on AVS was started shortly after this thread and it has about 3X the post, so people are buying them.



It's great that you don't want to annoy you're neighbors, too bad about the sound leakage. I can tell you that running 5 PC2000's and a couple of subs, some sound is bound to get out!
 
#4,962 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidState /forum/post/19312105


Todd,


I checked out that link...very tempting. Is this a new company? Has anyone actually auditioned these subs?


Incidentally, I hooked up my 8040's last night and cranked them up. Boy, do they sound sweet! Unfortunately, I don't know if I'm going to be able to keep them. The bipolar design has me concerned. I live right by the beach and consequently, our houses are stacked on top of each other. While I have awesome neighbors, the sound leak from these speakers is WAY more than my previous ones, mainly because there are drivers firing right a the walls (i.e. firing right towards my neighbor's house). I also have a pair of the PM1000's, so I'm going to hook those up as my fronts with my Totem sub and see how that sounds. I'm really trying to balance a good, loud, clean system with a healthy respect for my neighbors. I DO love those 40's, though!


If I like the way the PM1000's sound as mains, I'll probably end up ordering 5 PC2000's from BB and go crazy. Decisions, decisions!!


Todd

Please lets us know if you buy the 5 PC2000's, it will be like getting PM1000's on steriods
 
#4,963 ·
When I received my DT ProCinema 800 package I discovered the subwoofer had a bad case of the rattles. While trying to isolate the issue it was discovered that the rattles would disappear it the unit was placed upside down. I then found this was not the first report of this issue. I found the included thread that discusses this very issue. Below is a solution for those that have the same symptoms. Hope this helps those who have this issue.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1271997



When I found this post I discovered this is not an isolated case of DT ProSub has rattles. Case rattles that do not occur if the unit is turned upside down. If you have this issue and your sub is under warranty or you purchased it local you might want to return it for another. However for those that would like to try and resolve the issue then see follow the guide listed below.


Symptoms:

When power is off to the unit and you tap on the side of the unit you hear a rattle along with the vibration. To test for the rattle, perform the following steps:

1) Disconnect all the wires to the sub including the power cord

2) Tighten the speaker connectors if they are lose

3) Place the sub on carpet or soft surface

4) With a closed fist, tap on top rear corner of the sub with the soft part of your fist. Listen for the rattle or buzz.

5) With your other hand slightly lift the rear of the sub and repeat step 4. The rattle/buzz will follow the vibration you feel. If the rattle is not present, it is possible you have a different issue.

6) If you hear the rattle, gently place the sub upside down and repeat step 4. If the rattle is all but gone, then there is a good chance the steps below will show and resolve the rattle issue.
Disclaimer: Proceed from here at your own risk. Care must be taken to keep from damaging the unit.

What you will need to perform this task:

1) A Philips screwdriver (medium size)

2) 1.5 to 1.75 thick book

3) A wrist sweatband

4) Flashlight




The Procedure:

1) Place the sub right soft surface or with a cloth underneeth



2) Remove the front grill and store out of the way in a safe place







3) Carefully pick up the sub and place it face down evenly on the grill holding pins.




4) To remove the screws, do so in a staggered pattern similar to removing and installing lug nuts on a car. If you don't want to mar the screws or back plate, place a piece of cloth between the screwdriver and the screw. Remove the screws slowly to minimize the loss of particle board. Don't be surprised if some screws seem tighter than others. That is the result of them using wood screws without T-nuts.
When removing what I thought would be T bolt/nuts, I discovered they were actually wood screws into particle board. This can create problems and is not a good practice. I was very disappointed to find out they designed and manufactured this unit this way. You will need to be very careful when removing the screw and even more so when screwing them back in to keep from striping the wood. The problem with wood screws into particle board is that the glued compress wood will crumble away from the threads causing them not to bite into the wood. Even with care this can happen. If it does, then a trip to HD/Lowes to pick up some T bolt/nuts and do the job correctly.



5) Very carefully pick the sub straight up keeping your hand on the back plate to make sure it does not fall out. Being careful not to put any side stress on the front grill pins while lifting, rotate the sub back to the upright position keeping pressure on the back plate. Sit the sub down with so the book is right at the edge of the back of the sub.



6) There is very little slack in the wires so be careful when sliding out the plate. There is a good chance the plate will be stuck to the speaker box, so you might have to work a little to get it lose. Do not pull hard on the speaker knobs or use a screwdriver to pry it loose unless you do not mind cosmetic damage. If you are having a hard time getting it loose, try taping the box or lifting the back side ½ and taping it down. Make sure you keep your hand on the plate while you do this. Once it is free, slide it out slightly. Stop if the wires are tight and stressed. The wires are tied to the top speaker box with a wire tie. If you need more slack, undo the wire tie. You might be able to do the repair without undoing the wire tie if you can get the back plate out enough to sit on the book.





7) At this point you will notice there is block of wood glued to the base of the sub box that sits just beneath the transformer.
Not sure if the manufacture forgot to put a pad on top of that wood block or if they intended for it to be like that. Assuming the purpose of that block of wood is in some way there for support of the transformer, it just does not work as is. If you look at the transformer you will notice that is it mounted on an L bracket. Do to the weight of the transformer, it flexes. I could not tell for sure if the transformer flexes enough to hit the wood. I would have suspected evidence of rubbing and found none. However, just the vibration of the transformer would be enough to cause issues. It was nice to see that they used Loctite and sealant on the components and connectors.




The mystery block of wood and the focus of the modification. Also notice the wood screws used to mount the passive driver and the main driver.



8) Take the wrist sweatband and place it on top of the block of wood. Tuck the end down into the space between back cover and the block of wood. This will help in keeping the sweat band from sliding back when the back plate is re-inserted.



9) Retie the wire tie that holds the wires if it was undone and slide the back plate back into the enclosure.

10) Holding the back plate in place with palm lift up the sub and place it face down evenly on the grill holding pins.

11) Install the screws in a staggered pattern similar to removing and installing lug nuts on a car.

Do not over tighten as this might strip the particle board. Once all the screws are installed, gently go back over the screws until they are tight.

12) Pick up the sub straight up being careful not to put any side stress on the front grill pins while lifting, rotate the sub back to the upright position.

13) Test for the rattle as described in the systems section. If rattle still occurring, check the screws to make sure they are tight and that the speaker connectors are tightened. Repeat process if necessary.

14) Install front grill cover.




I hope this helps those who have this problem with their DT ProCinema subwoofers.



For me this eliminated 96% of the rattling. Only rattles that occur now are when the subwoofer is pushed at a very high volume. With a little more work on the inside of the cabinet and using T-nuts, I bet this cabinet could be 100% rattle free.

For Fun:

If you would like to hear the transformer hum, with the volume all the way down put your ear on the top of the subwoofer cabinet.
 
#4,964 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenTennis /forum/post/19326245


When I received my DT ProCinema 800 package I discovered the subwoofer had a bad case of the rattles. While trying to isolate the issue it was discovered that the rattles would disappear it the unit was placed upside down. I then found this was not the first report of this issue. I found the included thread that discusses this very issue. Below is a solution for those that have the same symptoms. Hope this helps those who have this issue.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1271997



When I found this post I discovered this is not an isolated case of DT ProSub has rattles. Case rattles that do not occur if the unit is turned upside down. If you have this issue and your sub is under warranty or you purchased it local you might want to return it for another. However for those that would like to try and resolve the issue then see follow the guide listed below.


Symptoms:

When power is off to the unit and you tap on the side of the unit you hear a rattle along with the vibration. To test for the rattle, perform the following steps:

1) Disconnect all the wires to the sub including the power cord

2) Tighten the speaker connectors if they are lose

3) Place the sub on carpet or soft surface

4) With a closed fist, tap on top rear corner of the sub with the soft part of your fist. Listen for the rattle or buzz.

5) With your other hand slightly lift the rear of the sub and repeat step 4. The rattle/buzz will follow the vibration you feel. If the rattle is not present, it is possible you have a different issue.

6) If you hear the rattle, gently place the sub upside down and repeat step 4. If the rattle is all but gone, then there is a good chance the steps below will show and resolve the rattle issue.
Disclaimer: Proceed from here at your own risk. Care must be taken to keep from damaging the unit.

What you will need to perform this task:

1) A Philips screwdriver (medium size)

2) 1.5 to 1.75 thick book

3) A wrist sweatband

4) Flashlight


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The Procedure:

1) Place the sub right soft surface or with a cloth underneeth



2) Remove the front grill and store out of the way in a safe place





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3) Carefully pick up the sub and place it face down evenly on the grill holding pins.




4) To remove the screws, do so in a staggered pattern similar to removing and installing lug nuts on a car. If you don't want to mar the screws or back plate, place a piece of cloth between the screwdriver and the screw. Remove the screws slowly to minimize the loss of particle board. Don't be surprised if some screws seem tighter than others. That is the result of them using wood screws without T-nuts.
When removing what I thought would be T bolt/nuts, I discovered they were actually wood screws into particle board. This can create problems and is not a good practice. I was very disappointed to find out they designed and manufactured this unit this way. You will need to be very careful when removing the screw and even more so when screwing them back in to keep from striping the wood. The problem with wood screws into particle board is that the glued compress wood will crumble away from the threads causing them not to bite into the wood. Even with care this can happen. If it does, then a trip to HD/Lowes to pick up some T bolt/nuts and do the job correctly.



5) Very carefully pick the sub straight up keeping your hand on the back plate to make sure it does not fall out. Being careful not to put any side stress on the front grill pins while lifting, rotate the sub back to the upright position keeping pressure on the back plate. Sit the sub down with so the book is right at the edge of the back of the sub.



6) There is very little slack in the wires so be careful when sliding out the plate. There is a good chance the plate will be stuck to the speaker box, so you might have to work a little to get it lose. Do not pull hard on the speaker knobs or use a screwdriver to pry it loose unless you do not mind cosmetic damage. If you are having a hard time getting it loose, try taping the box or lifting the back side ½ and taping it down. Make sure you keep your hand on the plate while you do this. Once it is free, slide it out slightly. Stop if the wires are tight and stressed. The wires are tied to the top speaker box with a wire tie. If you need more slack, undo the wire tie. You might be able to do the repair without undoing the wire tie if you can get the back plate out enough to sit on the book.





7) At this point you will notice there is block of wood glued to the base of the sub box that sits just beneath the transformer.
Not sure if the manufacture forgot to put a pad on top of that wood block or if they intended for it to be like that. Assuming the purpose of that block of wood is in some way there for support of the transformer, it just does not work as is. If you look at the transformer you will notice that is it mounted on an L bracket. Do to the weight of the transformer, it flexes. I could not tell for sure if the transformer flexes enough to hit the wood. I would have suspected evidence of rubbing and found none. However, just the vibration of the transformer would be enough to cause issues. It was nice to see that they used Loctite and sealant on the components and connectors.




The mystery block of wood and the focus of the modification. Also notice the wood screws used to mount the passive driver and the main driver.



8) Take the wrist sweatband and place it on top of the block of wood. Tuck the end down into the space between back cover and the block of wood. This will help in keeping the sweat band from sliding back when the back plate is re-inserted.



9) Retie the wire tie that holds the wires if it was undone and slide the back plate back into the enclosure.

10) Holding the back plate in place with palm lift up the sub and place it face down evenly on the grill holding pins.

11) Install the screws in a staggered pattern similar to removing and installing lug nuts on a car.

Do not over tighten as this might strip the particle board. Once all the screws are installed, gently go back over the screws until they are tight.

12) Pick up the sub straight up being careful not to put any side stress on the front grill pins while lifting, rotate the sub back to the upright position.

13) Test for the rattle as described in the systems section. If rattle still occurring, check the screws to make sure they are tight and that the speaker connectors are tightened. Repeat process if necessary.

14) Install front grill cover.




I hope this helps those who have this problem with their DT ProCinema subwoofers.



For me this eliminated 96% of the rattling. Only rattles that occur now are when the subwoofer is pushed at a very high volume. With a little more work on the inside of the cabinet and using T-nuts, I bet this cabinet could be 100% rattle free.

For Fun:

If you would like to hear the transformer hum, with the volume all the way down put your ear on the top of the subwoofer cabinet.

FANTASTIC post, thank very much for the highly detailed step-by-step cure [96%]. Other than the sub rattling what do you think of the 800's? Please stay around to help tackle some questions about the operation of your 8's. There is a need for a PM800 owners, can you tell us why you picked the 8's over the 600?
 
#4,965 ·
Alright, just got my pc1000 in to replace my pc600. What difference. EXACTLY what I was looking for. Now time for a question.


Im running the Pioneer vsx-30 and im curious what my cross over should be set at. It auto configure the system at 100, should I turn it down to 80 like def tech suggests?


Any other configuration im missing?


(side note, is there even a market on ebay for the small 600?)


Thanks
 
#4,966 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by rst08tierney /forum/post/19338316


Alright, just got my pc1000 in to replace my pc600. What difference. EXACTLY what I was looking for. Now time for a question.


Im running the Pioneer vsx-30 and im curious what my cross over should be set at. It auto configure the system at 100, should I turn it down to 80 like def tech suggests?


Any other configuration im missing?


(side note, is there even a market on ebay for the small 600?)


Thanks

I'd see what your AVR sets the XO, the XO is based on what your speaker sounds like in your room, factory XO recommendations are based on THEIR room [anabolic chamber]. Your cal system reads how your speaker preforms in your room, which you should follow [thats what you paid for, right?]
 
#4,967 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plex /forum/post/19099550


Welcome to the club, you've made a very good investment and will enjoy these speakers for many years.


The PS1000 is the weak link in your system, but unless you can return it and buy something else it will do for now, may be you can upgrade that dow the line.


Here are a few subs with better sound and price or at least similar price.


Model : A3-250 Subwoofer

Subwoofer Driver Size : 10" x 1

Power : 300W

Dimensions : W - 15.75", H - 18.5", D - 20"/20.75" With Grill"

Frequency Response : 18-100 Hz

Weight : 70 lbs

Price : $450.00


Model : A2 - 300 Subwoofer

Subwoofer Driver Size : 12" x 1

Power : 200W

Dimensions : W - 18.00", H - 18.00", D - 21.5"

Frequency Response : 18-100Hz

Weight : 71 lbs

Price : $415.00



Model : A2 - 250 Subwoofer

Subwoofer Driver Size : 10" x 1

Power : 200W

Dimensions : W - 13.75", H - 13.75", D - 24.5"

Frequency Response : 18-100Hz

Weight : 58 lbs

Price : $350.00


Model : A3S - 250 Subwoofer

Subwoofer Driver Size : 10" x 1

Power : 300W

Dimensions : W - 14.25", H - 14.25", D - 14.25"

Frequency Response : 25-100Hz

Weight : 35 lbs

Price : $350.00

I'm new to the forum--I started my project with a new TV--Samsung 55C6800. But sound has always been of equal--or even more--importance to me. I decided to start with the 600-series in a box but have since decided to change out the center and front with 1000/800 x2. And then use the extra 600s for back speakers for 7.1. (at least my tentative plan)


My questions here are about the subwoofer. I had thought to upgrade the 600 sub with something more robust--such as one of your recommendations--or maybe something else.


But I wonder if I can use the 600 as a second sub? Is that a good idea? Or would it defeat the purpose of having the better sub?


How about wiring the front speakers through the sub as recommended by DT? That instead of RCA line to the sub and then use whatever new sub I buy as the LFE sub?


I have to say I'm really still very confused about the whole DT wiring options--I've not really run across as many comments yet as I had hoped, especially concerning the option of wring front speakers through 600 sub AND running an RCA line as well. Does that option really provide any benefits?


Probably too many questions and I'll continue to look through this thread. Currently running an Onkyo TX-SR601 but plan to upgrade that as well.
 
#4,968 ·
Anybody has a pb-10 with def-techs? I can afford the pb-10 and has heard good things but i can also buy a supercube 2 for about the same amount. Anybody had any comparisons? Thanks. Its going in a 18x11x9 room!I have 450s procenter 2000 and b.p.1.2 on the way!!! Im going to try and post pics!
 
#4,969 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by rollie83 /forum/post/19355332


Anybody has a pb-10 with def-techs? I can afford the pb-10 and has heard good things but i can also buy a supercube 2 for about the same amount. Anybody had any comparisons? Thanks. Its going in a 18x11x9 room!I have 450s procenter 2000 and b.p.1.2 on the way!!! Im going to try and post pics!

While you should go with what sounds good to you, keep in mind that the specs for the SCII are no where close to reality. DT list the the SCII down to 14Hz and the SCIII to 16Hz.

Here's how home theater magazine measured the SCIII -3dB at 50Hz and -6dB at 29Hz. That is very poor extension for the $ IMHO. I expect the SCII to measure only slightly better.


The SVS is rated very honestly and will go much deeper.
 
#4,971 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by lunaticpuma /forum/post/19357586


Has anyone here ever done a comparison of the Promonitor 800's to the Energy RC-mini's? I'm debating between a pair of one of those. I'm looking for high detail in the sound since they will be used mostly at low volumes (infant sleeping upstairs and sound carries in our house).

which ever you get try to use get an AVR that uses Audyssey Dyamic, this gives the full sound at low volumes, also chech out site they tell you which brands offer Audyssey. http://www.audyssey.com/technology/dynamiceq.html
 
#4,972 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by rollie83 /forum/post/19355332


Anybody has a pb-10 with def-techs? I can afford the pb-10 and has heard good things but i can also buy a supercube 2 for about the same amount. Anybody had any comparisons? Thanks. Its going in a 18x11x9 room!I have 450s procenter 2000 and b.p.1.2 on the way!!! Im going to try and post pics!

What, are getting rid of the 450's!!!
 
#4,973 ·
Oh no plex, that would be evil I got rid of the 450s!!! After almost a two year wait. . . I am almost complete. . .I have the 450s, the procenter 2000, and bp1.2!!! and just need the sub, so I was trying to see how the svs pb-10 compares to the supercube 2 as I could get for the same $$$. Originally I was going to get the pb-12 but its discontinued only the cylinder is left but its 200 more than the pb-10 so I think the pb-10 will do fine!
 
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