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post #5041 of 5265 Old 02-26-2016, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sfuva21 View Post
Thanks Zorba for the thoughts. A few things. A review online (not a particularly respectable website, but it was well-written and sounded like he used fancy tools) said this about the 89ii (not the 890, but seemingly the same horn/tweeter?): "The PL-89 II struggled to accurately reproduce high-frequency tones according to our test, however. As opposed to the straight line the sine wave produces, there were some drastic dips, especially in the 10kHz and higher frequency ranges. The midrange horn handles both the midrange and the high frequencies. The fact that one speaker handles so much audio information could be the reason for the struggles in the upper echelon of frequencies."

Of course, the 890 has the separate mid-bass driver, so if his speculation in the last sentence is right, then that would maybe fix the problem. But, this did make me wonder about the high end on the 890s. It seems universally agreed that the highs aren't as defined/pronounced on the BICs as, say, a Klipsch horn tweeter (though I understand that many consider this a good thing). So you're telling me that if I go with the 890s, I should have plenty of clarity and detail on the highs? (compared to the AJ and similar speakers in this price range; I know it's all relative).

Second point: I notice your suggestions for me tend to be mini-towers or bookshelves. Was that purely from a place of making inexpensive suggestions? Or might it be the case that either (1) my Pioneer VSX-1130 (95w at 8ohms) won't be able to adequately drive a full sized tower, and/or (2) if I'm crossing to my two giant subs at 100hz, I simply don't need the bigger towers (2.0 music aside)? On the latter, consensus online seems to be that the sound will still be 'bigger' from a tower even when using a sub (I guess there's still plenty of 100-300hz audio being output). But the former, I do worry about a bit. But 95/100w receivers seem to be the norm for sub-$1000 receivers. Surely not everybody with towers has amps/receivers in the 4 digit range??
People either love or hate Klipsch speakers...so I would definitely proceed cautiously with them, i.e. start with just a pair of bookshelves from say Best Buy that you can easily return for a refund, and watch a movie or two with them to see if you're ok with their treble...BIC and Hsu roll off their horns to avoid the kind of treble harshness that many people object to in Klipsch speakers, but some people actually enjoy Klipsch speakers precisely for that extra treble detail. There's only one way for you to find out.

If you want very high levels of treble detail as well as tonal accuracy without risk of Klipsch harshness, the Ascend speakers would be a very safe bet and they are also easy to drive. Ditto with the Chanes; the main difference between those two are the tweeter and driver designs (Chane uses XBL woofers and leaf tweeters), and company reputation---Ascend is one of the oldest Internet-direct companies and along with almost unanimously positive user reviews has a glowing reputation for customer service/integrity.

Regarding bookshelves vs towers, I really think that since you have 2 subs that you're very happy with, you'll probably cross over your mains (have them on "small") so they'd be handling mostly the mids and highs---this largely negates the main advantage of towers, IMO. Towers are more advantageous if you have a huge room and sit far away while listening at high volumes, especially to music. For most people in most rooms, they are unnecessary unless you simply have a strong preference for their looks.

I wouldn't worry about inadequate power when considering any of the speakers mentioned. It's true that most mainstream receiver manufacturers lie shamelessly about their power specs, and some speaker companies also fudge their sensitivity and impedance numbers, however. In the unlikely case that you find your receiver struggling to power your speakers, there's always the option of adding inexpensive external amps like the Crown XLS class D amps that run about $200-300 each which provide gobs of quality power.

PS. If the review website you're referring to is Audioholics, I would take them with many grains of salt...they like to pretend to be "scientific" by using a lot of amateur measurements, but overall they follow the same pay-to-play corrupt business model of most audio publications: positively reviewing mainly their advertisers' products and occasionally doing hit-jobs on non-advertiser products especially those which defy conventional price categories.
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post #5042 of 5265 Old 02-26-2016, 11:26 AM
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I'd always go towers over bookshelves, short of something like $100 towers vs $1,000 bookshelves, of course. And experiment running the speakers full range (large). Most here will not agree, but I'd try it out. I was only running my speakers full range for video games, but I'm now leaving it for movies, too. Much richer and fuller in my comparisons. From dialog to sound effects in the front and surrounds. Even the new Dolby Cinema theaters running Dolby Atmos are running all speakers full range.
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post #5043 of 5265 Old 02-26-2016, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by raistline View Post
I would like to Both to build on this and to disagree with at least one small point. You will without a doubt hear very decently large improvement with a BIC Acoustech setup. These quality of these speakers are way over their price price point when compared to most other major brands. The Horn loaded tweeter will bring out more detail in voices and in any sharp tone that is usually littered all over action scenes within movies.

Great to hear - that's what I was hoping you would say. I don't need the best (and don't want to pay for the best), but I've decided that maybe I'm a little too...picky?...for the Andrew Jones Pioneers. Good to know that this would be a real, legit, more than just marginal step up.

As for the rears, they do not need to be powerful at all since there is much less sound coming out of them comparatively. In your case you would actually be better off with either the PL-66s or going with 4 separate towers. You generally don't want to mix speakers lines between front and rear whenever possible, especially since movies are utilizing them for voice more frequently. You don't want a persons voices sounding different as it pans from rear to front speakers. With your current budget of 300+ per speaker you can afford all 5 speakers being towers through the regular Bic Acoustec outlets when utilizing their "Make an Offer" pricing.

4 towers seems like overkill. I'll probably just take your word and go with the PL-66s. Thanks for the input there.

When it comes to your Crossover settings, if you get these you will be better off crossing over at 80hz. The Bics do very well down to that level. they are a little bit lacking compared to some other brands between the 40 and 80hz but are still very good with music. In the 40-80hz range they don't lack clarity, it is more oomph that is lacking than anything.

I'm sure there are gobs of threads devoted to this, but curious why I'd be "better" off crossing at 80 rather than 100? For one thing, my 95w AVR is only barely powerful enough for these beasts, so I'd think a higher crossover would leave that much more power for the mids and highs. And even if the towers do "very well" down to 80, shouldn't separately powered (though admittedly only 150w), 15-inch subs do it "even better"? (If not, is that just because my subs are Dayton? Surely this must be true for high end subs?) Plus, my receiver doesn't let me crossover different channels independently, so I'd be crossing the surrounds and overheads at 80 also - 100 seems better for them. From what I can tell, the 80hz rule of thumb is because above that, you can localize the sub. But if I have two subs up front, both nestled right up beside the towers, that concern seems to go away. Please enlighten me?

Also, good to know on music. Truthfully, I'm not sitting down there jamming out to new vinyl nightly, its more of a "friends over playing pool" thing, on some combo of Spotify and CDs from the 90s - sounds like these towers will more than suffice for that, even if the bass *could* be bigger.

Now for the part that I disagree with Zorba. With the budget he has I disagree with your suggestion of going with the FH-6 speakers. I am lucky enough that my nearby Best Buy had the BIC FH line in stock for listening not too long ago. They seem to cycle in and out of stock depending on what other brands are "On Special." And to this, the Acoustech line is worth the price premium if it is within your budget. The higher sensitivity bring out the clarity of voice in movies and in music more. Finally The upgraded voice coil makes sound just a bit more full as it comes out. So if you can afford the upgrade, do it. If not, then the FH line is still very good and like all other BIC speakers, is a much higher class than it's price point.

I'm very grateful for Zorba's input, but think I'll probably follow you on this one. If for no other reason than the irrational one that it doesn't FEEL like an upgrade to trade in towers (even Pioneer dinky towers) for bookshelf or mini-towers!

*Edit to add price consideration*
For buying a 5.0 set they will usually knock about 15-20% off the listed price of $1169 which means you could make an offer of $1000 or $950 and likely get it accepted. Here is the link: http://www.acousticsounddesign.com/c...pid=6332&sc=27. This brings your price down to $325 per tower, $200 for the center and $150 for the rears if they accept the $1000 offer.
**EDIT*** Ok clearly I don't know the trick to replying inline on this forum. raistline, lots of questions/comments for you embedded in your original text above, if you care to reply. Thank you!!

I was familiar with this but those numbers are helpful to know - thanks!!.

Thanks so much for your input raistline; I really appreciate it!
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post #5044 of 5265 Old 02-26-2016, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by raistline View Post
I would like to Both to build on this and to disagree with at least one small point. You will without a doubt hear very decently large improvement with a BIC Acoustech setup. These quality of these speakers are way over their price price point when compared to most other major brands. The Horn loaded tweeter will bring out more detail in voices and in any sharp tone that is usually littered all over action scenes within movies.

As for the rears, they do not need to be powerful at all since there is much less sound coming out of them comparatively. In your case you would actually be better off with either the PL-66s or going with 4 separate towers. You generally don't want to mix speakers lines between front and rear whenever possible, especially since movies are utilizing them for voice more frequently. You don't want a persons voices sounding different as it pans from rear to front speakers. With your current budget of 300+ per speaker you can afford all 5 speakers being towers through the regular Bic Acoustec outlets when utilizing their "Make an Offer" pricing.

When it comes to your Crossover settings, if you get these you will be better off crossing over at 80hz. The Bics do very well down to that level. they are a little bit lacking compared to some other brands between the 40 and 80hz but are still very good with music. In the 40-80hz range they don't lack clarity, it is more oomph that is lacking than anything.

Now for the part that I disagree with Zorba. With the budget he has I disagree with your suggestion of going with the FH-6 speakers. I am lucky enough that my nearby Best Buy had the BIC FH line in stock for listening not too long ago. They seem to cycle in and out of stock depending on what other brands are "On Special." And to this, the Acoustech line is worth the price premium if it is within your budget. The higher sensitivity bring out the clarity of voice in movies and in music more. Finally The upgraded voice coil makes sound just a bit more full as it comes out. So if you can afford the upgrade, do it. If not, then the FH line is still very good and like all other BIC speakers, is a much higher class than it's price point.


*Edit to add price consideration*
For buying a 5.0 set they will usually knock about 15-20% off the listed price of $1169 which means you could make an offer of $1000 or $950 and likely get it accepted. Here is the link: http://www.acousticsounddesign.com/c...pid=6332&sc=27. This brings your price down to $325 per tower, $200 for the center and $150 for the rears if they accept the $1000 offer.
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Originally Posted by Zorba922 View Post
People either love or hate Klipsch speakers...so I would definitely proceed cautiously with them, i.e. start with just a pair of bookshelves from say Best Buy that you can easily return for a refund, and watch a movie or two with them to see if you're ok with their treble...BIC and Hsu roll off their horns to avoid the kind of treble harshness that many people object to in Klipsch speakers, but some people actually enjoy Klipsch speakers precisely for that extra treble detail. There's only one way for you to find out.

If you want very high levels of treble detail as well as tonal accuracy without risk of Klipsch harshness, the Ascend speakers would be a very safe bet and they are also easy to drive. Ditto with the Chanes; the main difference between those two are the tweeter and driver designs (Chane uses XBL woofers and leaf tweeters), and company reputation---Ascend is one of the oldest Internet-direct companies and along with almost unanimously positive user reviews has a glowing reputation for customer service/integrity.

Regarding bookshelves vs towers, I really think that since you have 2 subs that you're very happy with, you'll probably cross over your mains (have them on "small") so they'd be handling mostly the mids and highs---this largely negates the main advantage of towers, IMO. Towers are more advantageous if you have a huge room and sit far away while listening at high volumes, especially to music. For most people in most rooms, they are unnecessary unless you simply have a strong preference for their looks.

I wouldn't worry about inadequate power when considering any of the speakers mentioned. It's true that most mainstream receiver manufacturers lie shamelessly about their power specs, and some speaker companies also fudge their sensitivity and impedance numbers, however. In the unlikely case that you find your receiver struggling to power your speakers, there's always the option of adding inexpensive external amps like the Crown XLS class D amps that run about $200-300 each which provide gobs of quality power.

PS. If the review website you're referring to is Audioholics, I would take them with many grains of salt...they like to pretend to be "scientific" by using a lot of amateur measurements, but overall they follow the same pay-to-play corrupt business model of most audio publications: positively reviewing mainly their advertisers' products and occasionally doing hit-jobs on non-advertiser products especially those which defy conventional price categories.
Thanks Zorba for all the input. I'm sure there are a million other forums on this, but curious how I add an external amp if the speakers don't have two sets of terminals? I'm definitely getting to the edge of my (rather limited) knowledge at this point...

Thanks!
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post #5045 of 5265 Old 02-26-2016, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sfuva21 View Post
Thanks Zorba for all the input. I'm sure there are a million other forums on this, but curious how I add an external amp if the speakers don't have two sets of terminals? I'm definitely getting to the edge of my (rather limited) knowledge at this point...

Thanks!
The speaker wire would run from your Receiver to the AMP, then from the AMP to the speaker.

If using external amps the cleanest sound you could get would be running your pre-outs to your amps then run speaker cable to your speakers. This way you are not dual-amping a signal and potentially adding noise.
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post #5046 of 5265 Old 02-26-2016, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sfuva21 View Post
Thanks Zorba for all the input. I'm sure there are a million other forums on this, but curious how I add an external amp if the speakers don't have two sets of terminals? I'm definitely getting to the edge of my (rather limited) knowledge at this point...

Thanks!
You would need a AV Rec with "pre outs" to use an external amp, fyi...
And I would disagree...Audioholic is AS GOOD as any site that reviews AV equipment...

Set up #1: EMP e5Ti, e5Ci, and EMP e5Bi surrounds, Outlaw LFM1 Plus sub, SVS NSD SB12 sub, Marantz Slimeline 1504 AV receiver
Set up #2: Def Tech SM450, CLR2002, SLS Qline surrounds and EMPtek10i10i sub, Denon 1910 AV receiver
Set up #3: Philharmonics- BMR in a 2.0 system, music only, Yamaha RXV-363 AV receiver
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post #5047 of 5265 Old 02-26-2016, 10:34 PM
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And I would disagree...Audioholic is AS GOOD as any site that reviews AV equipment...
Which is not setting a very high bar.
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post #5048 of 5265 Old 03-01-2016, 01:59 PM
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I'm going to be buying my first real home theater system and I wanted to know if I was making a good choice. Link below.

http://www.acousticsounddesign.com/c...pid=9025&sc=27
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post #5049 of 5265 Old 03-02-2016, 12:31 PM
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I'm going to be buying my first real home theater system and I wanted to know if I was making a good choice. Link below.

http://www.acousticsounddesign.com/c...pid=9025&sc=27
The weak point of that $2400 package = the subs. The PL200s aren't bad, but if it were me I'd go with a much more robust sub from Hsu, Rythmik, or SVS. If you have a good sub you don't really need towers, especially if it's not a huge space and if you're mainly doing HT/TV/gaming rather than critical music listening.

The best bang for your buck BIC speaker is the $108/each FH-6. Get 5 to 7 of them all around, plus stands as needed (about $50/pair from Amazon for Sanus 24" stands) and spend the rest of your budget on one of the aforementioned subs. (Or two subs if you have a huge room and/or are a serious basshead.)
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post #5050 of 5265 Old 03-02-2016, 12:52 PM
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The weak point of that $2400 package = the subs. The PL200s aren't bad, but if it were me I'd go with a much more robust sub from Hsu, Rythmik, or SVS. If you have a good sub you don't really need towers, especially if it's not a huge space and if you're mainly doing HT/TV/gaming rather than critical music listening.

The best bang for your buck BIC speaker is the $108/each FH-6. Get 5 to 7 of them all around, plus stands as needed (about $50/pair from Amazon for Sanus 24" stands) and spend the rest of your budget on one of the aforementioned subs. (Or two subs if you have a huge room and/or are a serious basshead.)
Right now you can go to jet.com, use promo code 15NOW and you can pick up two LCRs for under $100 each. They will only let you purchase a max of two.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
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post #5051 of 5265 Old 03-02-2016, 04:53 PM
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Wondering if some fh6-lcr owners can chime in. I ordered a single fh6 from Walmart but it's delayed due to quantity so am doing some other testing with speakers. The thing I seem to be most worried about is the speakers ability to handle bass and mid range frequencies. I've read some users accounts around how since it is a sealed design the speaker has difficulty with male voices in particular. When running Audyssey people are recording the receiver crossing the speaker over at 100 or 120 Hz which seems awfully high by my standards. Someone suggested it's really not meant for right or left fronts, that actually it's meant to be paired with the formula bookshelf or tower speaker.

Can anyone give their experience on this speaker as a center channel? Does it lack some good mid bass punch? These have 6 1/2 woofers so I don't understand how-bass could be a concern. I have the pioneer sp c-22 as a center and it provides strong bass down to 55hz which has been scientifically measured, and these only have 4" woofers. Thanks in advance!
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post #5052 of 5265 Old 03-02-2016, 07:41 PM
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Can anyone give their experience on this speaker as a center channel? Does it lack some good mid bass punch? These have 6 1/2 woofers so I don't understand how-bass could be a concern. I have the pioneer sp c-22 as a center and it provides strong bass down to 55hz which has been scientifically measured, and these only have 4" woofers.
There is no "mid-bass punch" in HT dialogue, or at least none that I've ever heard out of ANY center speaker. That term applies to music, which during HT mostly comes out of the L/R speakers, and for music listening I always revert to 2 channel mode anyway.

So if you're getting the FH-6 for your L/R as well, and if you don't have a competent sub in play, then yes this MIGHT be an issue for music listening if you like heavy bass in 2.0 mode.

As an HT center, I don't really mind that male voices don't sound as deep and authoritative as they could, because my main priority is that it's INTELLIGIBLE at moderate volumes---something the FH-6 achieves very easily. If you want to hear deeper male voices, fiddling with your EQ settings (some receivers nowadays let you have different EQ settings for different speakers) might do the trick. YMMV.

Also, bear in mind that room acoustics and placement can have an effect as well.
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post #5053 of 5265 Old 03-03-2016, 08:05 AM
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Can anyone give their experience on this speaker as a center channel?
I recently moved to one of these for my center based on help from folks in this thread. I am somewhat of a neophyte but I can say that for my usage (all movies/TV with this setup) that it sounds great. Dialogue is incredibly clear and it was a great $100 decision. No, male voices don't dig that deep, but clarity is great and I am extremely happy.

As for crossover, it seems to me that this is completely dependent on your sub. Initially I was using a Polk PSW110 and Audysssey had set the FH6-LCR to cross at 80hz. I swapped that out for an SVS PB1000 (yesterday) and Audyssey now set the center to cross at 110hz. I can't speak to the audio theory but empirical evidence would indicate that the sub makes all the difference.
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post #5054 of 5265 Old 03-03-2016, 09:07 AM
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I recently moved to one of these for my center based on help from folks in this thread. I am somewhat of a neophyte but I can say that for my usage (all movies/TV with this setup) that it sounds great. Dialogue is incredibly clear and it was a great $100 decision. No, male voices don't dig that deep, but clarity is great and I am extremely happy.

As for crossover, it seems to me that this is completely dependent on your sub. Initially I was using a Polk PSW110 and Audysssey had set the FH6-LCR to cross at 80hz. I swapped that out for an SVS PB1000 (yesterday) and Audyssey now set the center to cross at 110hz. I can't speak to the audio theory but empirical evidence would indicate that the sub makes all the difference.
Thanks for the input. Glad to hear you like it. I think the crossing over is my biggest concern at this point. A center crossing over at 110hz just seems bizzare to me. The 6 1/2 inch woofers can't handle much below this? Just odd. Plus, the sub being more localized is my concern at 110hz. I guess I can make more of an opinion once I get the speaker and set it up. I'm REALLY looking forward to comparing this to my Pionner SP-C22.
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post #5055 of 5265 Old 03-03-2016, 09:08 AM
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I recently moved to one of these for my center based on help from folks in this thread. I am somewhat of a neophyte but I can say that for my usage (all movies/TV with this setup) that it sounds great. Dialogue is incredibly clear and it was a great $100 decision. No, male voices don't dig that deep, but clarity is great and I am extremely happy.

As for crossover, it seems to me that this is completely dependent on your sub. Initially I was using a Polk PSW110 and Audysssey had set the FH6-LCR to cross at 80hz. I swapped that out for an SVS PB1000 (yesterday) and Audyssey now set the center to cross at 110hz. I can't speak to the audio theory but empirical evidence would indicate that the sub makes all the difference.

I'm by no means an Audyssey expert, but why would changing the subwoofer alter the speaker crossover determined by Audyssey?

I thought it just takes frequency measurements from 20-20,000Hz and sets the crossover where that specific speaker starts to drastically roll off, regardless of what the subwoofer can and cannot handle. So if it rolled off at 80Hz the first time, shouldn't it still do so with just a change in sub? You didn't move the FH6 between the two calibrations? Or maybe rearranged some furniture?
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post #5056 of 5265 Old 03-03-2016, 09:17 AM
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I'm by no means an Audyssey expert, but why would changing the subwoofer alter the speaker crossover determined by Audyssey?

I thought it just takes frequency measurements from 20-20,000Hz and sets the crossover where that specific speaker starts to drastically roll off, regardless of what the subwoofer can and cannot handle. So if it rolled off at 80Hz the first time, shouldn't it still do so with just a change in sub? You didn't move the FH6 between the two calibrations? Or maybe rearranged some furniture?
Not sure about how all this works, but no, I didn't change anything except for swapping the subs and it's into the exact same place. The only other change I can think of is mike placement when I did the calibration, but I tried to get the same positions.
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post #5057 of 5265 Old 03-03-2016, 09:44 AM
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Not sure about how all this works, but no, I didn't change anything except for swapping the subs and it's into the exact same place. The only other change I can think of is mike placement when I did the calibration, but I tried to get the same positions.
Yeah, that seems odd to me too. If anything you would suspect the crossover would be set higher the first testing and lower the second if the speaker had some break in time. Obviously something changed.
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post #5058 of 5265 Old 03-03-2016, 10:31 AM
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Yeah, that seems odd to me too. If anything you would suspect the crossover would be set higher the first testing and lower the second if the speaker had some break in time. Obviously something changed.
Like I said, I'm a Neophyte Not sure what's different by I must have messed something up. Have some furniture rearranging coming up this weekend so I'll be re-doing Audyssey a few times and Ill see what changes.
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post #5059 of 5265 Old 03-03-2016, 08:17 PM
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The whole point of a sub is to take the power load from the other speaker channels, plus the LFE content. If one sub can produce more of the 80-120 Hz frequencies, it then makes sense that Audyssey would cross over higher.


In my experience however, just re-running Audyssey often results in different crossover settings.

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post #5060 of 5265 Old 03-05-2016, 05:13 AM
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My fh6 is in the FedEx truck being delivered today. What is the break in time for these bad boys?
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post #5061 of 5265 Old 03-05-2016, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by butie120 View Post
My fh6 is in the FedEx truck being delivered today. What is the break in time for these bad boys?
I'd guesstimate around 20-30 hours, tops.
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post #5062 of 5265 Old 03-05-2016, 09:45 AM
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I'd guesstimate around 20-30 hours, tops.
Alright then...one hour down....
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post #5063 of 5265 Old 03-06-2016, 09:49 AM
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I'm guessing whatever crossover they use really kill and type of Bass my speakers might have. For having 2 6.5" woofers they don't have any bottem end.



Very disappointing. Clarity and sub make up for it though.
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post #5064 of 5265 Old 03-08-2016, 06:53 AM
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Alright then...one hour down....

How's the FH6 been for you?
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post #5065 of 5265 Old 03-08-2016, 12:04 PM
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How's the FH6 been for you?
It's been pretty good. I'm using it just as the center right now as I only purchased one. My guess is that I have around 15 hours or so on it. The bass seems to have improved, although it is constrained due to the sealed design. I must admit that I can't imagine using these for music. There are moments where it sounds ok, but the voices are too exaggerated and sounds too airy for my taste. The Pioneer BS 22's beat it for music.

My wife wanted to rent Fifty Shades of Grey so we watched that a few nights ago (a pretty "meh" movie by the way. "Meet me in the play room." Serious? Play room? Anyway....) I used the FH6 for most of the movie then swapped out for the Pioneer center channel. She found the FH6 more clear and forward sounding for voices, easier to hear dialogue, which was true. The Pioneer center is just more laid back and neutral. To be honest though, and my wife even said, if I had not tried out the FH6, we would be perfectly content with the Pioneer. I've even read that the Pioneer opens up after changing the crossover to 100hz which I have yet to try.

In conclusion? The FH6 would work great for a center channel without a doubt. It's crisp, easy to drive, and clear sounding. Voices are what this thing does with ease and that's what's most important. Whispers are easy to hear. I've been using it with the Pioneer BS 22s as mains without a problem. I don't think I would get these for fronts though considering a lot of music soundtrack comes from the fronts and I like the warmness of the Pioneers.
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post #5066 of 5265 Old 03-08-2016, 02:27 PM
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Posted this in a separate thread but thought I may get more help here.

Looking to pair a couple bookshelf speakers with a BIC FH6-LCR (purchased from a fellow poster). I can just get two more FH6's or get 2 FH-65B's. The price is pretty much the same. What would be the better option or is there something else out there that would be better suited for me? I understand the need to timbre match but wanted to keep options open.

Upgrading from a trio of Dayton B652-Air's as LCR speakers. Use is 90% movies and 10% gaming. Never used for music. Room is 12x15. Sub is a Klipsch Sub-12HG. Must be wall mountable. AVR is a Denon S910W. Budget is $250 for the pair.
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post #5067 of 5265 Old 03-08-2016, 02:48 PM
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The fh6 Seems to echo my vk6 in HT only category.
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post #5068 of 5265 Old 03-08-2016, 04:14 PM
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It's been pretty good....
These have been pretty much my exact same thoughts. The FH6 is a great speaker for the price, but it by no means blows me away. I have a completely separate setup for actual music listening, so I don't mind that the other two FH6s which I use for the front LRs aren't as warm as I'd prefer for the music in movies/TV. I do miss the extra umpf that the rear ported Pioneers (mine being the first generation BS21s) had, but since I needed a speaker 6" or less in depth and either sealed or front-ported, I don't think I could have done any better within my budget. I do think a subwoofer upgrade would help these guys out quite a bit...that'll be my next purchase.
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post #5069 of 5265 Old 03-08-2016, 04:21 PM
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The fh6 Seems to echo my vk6 in HT only category.
Yeah, there's no way these could be used for an only music setup. I finally learned what it meant for speakers to be "bright" or "forward", as opposed to the Pioneers where people say they never get tired of listening to them. The more I research, read, buy things to try, etc, the more I realize the stuff I have works just fine. The only consideration I would have for upgrading would be the ELAC bookshelves, but they too are rear ported so not even sure if that would be worth it.
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post #5070 of 5265 Old 03-08-2016, 04:25 PM
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These have been pretty much my exact same thoughts. The FH6 is a great speaker for the price, but it by no means blows me away. I have a completely separate setup for actual music listening, so I don't mind that the other two FH6s which I use for the front LRs aren't as warm as I'd prefer for the music in movies/TV. I do miss the extra umpf that the rear ported Pioneers (mine being the first generation BS21s) had, but since I needed a speaker 6" or less in depth and either sealed or front-ported, I don't think I could have done any better within my budget. I do think a subwoofer upgrade would help these guys out quite a bit...that'll be my next purchase.
Exactly. I had the FS52s but wanted to get speakers off the ground due to kids. Wish I could have kept those. Now the BS 22s are mounted with the videosecu mounts attached to the wall, so I'm sure I'm sacrificing some sound with the rear port. I've tried looking at front ported speakers, but haven't found much success unless I pay some cash. The Focals are nice and front ported, but if I wanted to timbre match that center channel is $499. Ugh...no thanks. The bookshelves are $399, and considering I got the Pioneer BS22 and center for $152, it's hard to justify spending more. I think I'll benefit more with the better sub like you mentinoed.
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