The 863 uses the same firmware as the 663. Here's a link.
Is there something in particular you need a fix for?
Changed cables. No change, still flashed.
Changed inputs. The PS3 always flashes, and the Dish network HDMI does not, regardless of input or cable used.
Ran the PS3 directly into the TV. It does not flash.
Switched to a different TV with the PS3, worked fine.
So it seems like the PS3 and the receiver don't like each other..... Can't we all just get along!
I tried downloading the above firmware link, burned it to CD and followed the directions in the service manual. A message briefly flashes about "Header read" ( I think, it flashes fast) and then I get a "Model Type ERR" that comes up.
Can you try connecting the PS3 directly to your HDTV via HDMI? Still flashing? You've found the culprit.
I just went through a very similar story with my own V863, which I use to relay an old 4:3 480i DVD from my Oppo BDP-93 through the V863 (using component video out of the Oppo and into the V863, and then S-video out of the V863 and into a JVC 40K DVHS/SVHS VCR, and then S-video out of the VCR and into a 4:3 SD CRT television.
Well, it recently started "flashing" (i.e. image would disappear completely and then return, repeat, repeat) the same way I'm guessing your PS3 is flashing via HDMI connection. But in my case it was via S-video (at the end), starting off component video from the source device and relaying through several pieces of equipment and analog cable types.
So I tried various alternatives, to find the actual "culprit". The key is to cut out a relay device along the signal path and see if the symptom still exists. If yes, then that device is NOT the culprit. And in the end, it was not the Oppo source device or its component video output. And it was not the V863 or any of its component video inputs, nor was it any of the S-video outputs. And it was not either of the S-video inputs on the TV And it was not the S-video input on the SVHS VCR.
It was the S-video output circuitry in the VCR (feeding both of its S-video outputs) which was at fault, unrelated to what the source was or what device was at the other end of that S-video cable. I was able to produce the "flashing" symptom both on the directly connected TV and also through a second VCR, regardless of whether the source was (a) coming relayed from my DVD player, or (b) produced internally on the VCR by playing back an SVHS tape.
In other words, it is obviously an "old age" problem in the S-video output circuitry, no matter what the source. I've now simply removed that device and have the S-video cable from the V863 running directly to the S-video input of my TV... and of course no more flashing. I may or may not spend any money trying to get that JVC 40K repaired, as I have three other JVC DT100U machines that play the same DVHS/SVHS tapes and still work perfectly. And in this case I simply wanted to get 480i S-video from an old DVD over to my TV from my Oppo (relayed through the V863), and I don't really need to use that now-defective VCR at all.
Your situation may be similar. Removing the V863 in your HDMI relay, and going direct from PS3 to your HDTV will point to the culprit.
Some software likes to adjust the volume of audio tracks, which is no good for burning a firmware disc. For example, in Windows Media player you have to turn off the option "Apply volume leveling..." or the disc won't work. Other software may have similar features that need to be disabled. On playback, you also need to make sure the player is outputting the original data at 44.1kHz. A player than resamples the data or applies some other processing will make the update fail.
That said, I'll take another look at the 663 firmware file tonight and see what models it seems to be for. I can also verify the burn you made if you re-rip the CD to get back a .wav file (make sure to rip losslessly). I can tell if it's still a valid Yamaha firmware file, or whether it got modified during the burn process.
So the error message you got is probably because of the way the CD was burned or is being played back. You could try again with different burning software, and a different player if you have one. Which software and player did you use when you got the error message?
HT: Yamaha RX-V565 | 3 X Energy Take FPS, 2 X VS Surround, 2 X Take LCR | DIY Subs: SDX12 APR15 & TRIO12 Dual APR 12's | 47" LCD
Music: Yamaha RX-V863 | 2 X Energy RC-70 | MA RXw12 Sub
Bathroom: 2 X Energy Take LCR
Car: Sony Xplod HU, Xplod 6X9s, Kenwood 4"s, Alpine 12" Type-S, Rockford Amp,...
After further testing, it appears that the HDMI handshake between the PS3 and my V863 seems to be faltering. I ran the HDMI direct to the TV and ran the PS3 for many hours with no issues.
This is actually the second time the HDMI has caused me problems. The first time I took it and had it sent out for repair. I'm not going to do that again, I'll just get a new one. Looking at the Marantz SR7007 maybe.
I just thought attempting a firmware 'update' might help, and if I totally bricked it I would have a better reason to convince WifeUnit01 that we need a fancy new av receiver.
Still open to suggestions on fixes.
I originally bought it primarily as a replacement for a Zektor 4-in-1-out component video/audio switch I'd been using for handling multiple video/audio sources, because I really wanted to use HDMI. Also, the V863 is very much "analog-centric" and included a complete set of S-video connections which was important to me at the time, something that appears to pretty much no longer be present on any current AVRs.
However about a year ago I made a significant equipment upgrade (entirely HDMI-based), and upgraded to a Yamaha RX-V867. Although S-video was now gone with the V867, the unit now had four HDMI inputs instead of three, and had two HDMI outputs instead of one. This was very important to me. Still had multi-channel analog audio inputs/outputs which was important to me. I simply stopped using the old analog VCR's and other video sources which were S-video based, which is just a step forward anyway as I've solved the problem by making much more practical and durable DVDs and BluRays of those old tapes.
Furthermore, the V867 had "party mode" which was a way to deliver downmix-to-stereo of multi-channel primary 5.1 input to a second 2-channel stereo set of external speakers, which was important to me in support of a particular TV location.
The V863 has been re-purposed (along with some other supporting original equipment) to provide multi-channel audio from my HTPC computer at a second location (fed via optical coax from the PC), while the V867 and related new equipment is the mainstay at the primary HDTV location. I suspect the V863 will be with me and still working perfectly for many years to come, in its current audio-only implementation. But it was just fine for me even when I using its S-video/component/HDMI video features as well.
Casts doubt on all of their work.
Assuming you have the DVR connected to the AVR, and the AVR connected to the TV, I'd suggest you try simply powering things on in a different sequence, rather than trying to power everything on all at once. I'd turn the TV on first and let it "stabilize". Then turn the DVR on second, and let it stabilize. Actually, you can probably power on both DVR and TV without worrying... as long as the AVR is not yet powered on until both DVR and TV "stabilize".
Then finally turn the AVR on last. With both TV and DVR's (i.e. the devices on either side of the AVR, which shouldn't be able to "see each other via HDMI until the AVR itself is finally powered on last) already powered on and stabilized, the HDMI handshake process that will go on (to the two active HDMI-enabled devices as seen by the AVR) when you power on the AVR should probably work without any issue. Certainly you already see evidence of this for yourself, as you describe changing inputs on the AVR and then returning to the DVR input and now everything magically works just fine.
This is unfortunately to be expected when you have more than two devices connected directly to each other via HDMI (and where the HDMI handshake is less complicated and typically what is tested by the manufacturers), i.e. when you insert an AVR as an "HDMI switcher" in between two HDMI-enabled devices.
Note that I have a similar issue with my own setup which uses a newer RX-V867, and also my Linksys DMA2100 Windows Media Extender (i.e. DVR-like box from my HTPC), and my Oppo BDP-103 (with the DMA2100 going INTO the external HDMI-1 input of the 103), and my Panny 65VT50 HDTV. The Oppo has an optional setup where one of its two external HDMI inputs or its own internal disc player can be selected as the default when you power on the 103. Well, even though I want to select the DMA2100's external HDMI-1 input as the default, I too was getting a black screen on my TV because the DMA2100 takes about 30-seconds to stabilize and become operational after its power-on. So in my own FOUR-DEVICE HDMI-chain, everything else was looking for an HDMI handshake while the DMA2100 was still stabilizing!!
My solution: DMA2100 powered on first, and just wait until it stabilizes. Then the other devices can be powered on. Alternatively, since this was really a pain in the neck, I just changed the 103 to use its own internal player as the power-on startup default (even though I really wanted to be watching HDTV via the DMA2100). And I could now power on all devices (including the DMA2100 which takes 30-seconds to stabilize) at about the same time. Then, once the DMA2100 was ready to go, I change the input on the 103 to be external input HDMI-1 for the DMA2100, thus triggering an "end-to-end 4-device HDMI handshake" which works perfectly, and I'm off and running.
Again, anytime you have three or more devices inter-connected via HDMI, your HDMI handshake stability is up for grabs. You'll just have to live with it I'm afraid, including any workaround tricks or gimmicks you've discovered to overcome the anomalous behavior.