The Onkyo TX-SR606 Owners Thread - Page 244 - AVS Forum
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post #7291 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 10:05 AM
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mystic_sniper28,

Before we discuss this further, would you mind saying what you think Ohms measure, as well as what Watts measure?

kplex,

About Neo:6, I don't think the Onkyo manual is right. Neo:6 came out as a response for DPLII, and as such it was pretty long ago. At the time 6.1 speaker systems were being pushed (without much success ultimately), with DTS-ES. There are only a handful of movies with that kind of track. Neo:6 pretended to one-up DPLII by adding the rear speaker.

DTS did one-up Dolby, at least in effectiveness, with DTS-ES, but I have never seen any kind of content (besides perhaps DTS demo discs) specifically encoded in Neo:6. Dolby had a considerably big library in comparison (as in existent vs. non-existent), so DPLII actually ruled for games and consoles in which it was not viable to do full DD. PS2 and Gamecube are prime examples of that.

So anyway, in real life, since there's no Neo:6-encoded material, you could not even get 5.1 or 6.1 channels out of a stereo Neo:6 signal, at least not with any degree of accuracy. With 7.1 systems, most probably what you're getting is the same expansion it would do for 6.1, except the rear surrounds would likely be duplicated.
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post #7292 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post

it's a real shame that companies aren't releasing 7.1 systems in the 40-65 watt range, because anything above this is overkill for sound in normal 6x4 room, anything above this you'd become part of the speaker of the month or 3 month club...

Alot of Harman Kardon's lineup are around this level (sometimes underrated though, so be careful not to blow your speakers).

Also, the Sony ES receiver in the review I linked to only showed about 40 watts per channel in 7 channel testing, so you might like that one if you have the scratch.

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post #7293 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghpr13 View Post

Has anybody had any problems connecting a Toslink cable to the 606? I tried both a "premium" and a "regular" Toslink cable from Monoprice and neither one would "snap" into the 606. I'm using the "premium" cable but it's like it just sitting in place. It is working but I'm worried that it could vibrate out. It "snapped" right into my cable STB w/o a problem. (and yes, I've taken off the tiny plastic guard)
Ghpr13

I got the "fancy metal" ended TOSLink cables (I still giggle when I write that) from monoprice and had a similar issue, but it was fortunately on the end of my Xbox's component out cable which I exchanged for another one that seated firmly. Sounds like you could have a badly molded port for the cable that isn't allowing it to seat. You could just put it in the other one, but I know I'm running two cables so I'd guess you might be too. Only option I can think of is to try and get Onkyo to replace it but that may be a losing battle compared to leaving it weakly seated or supplementing with some tape or something...

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post #7294 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 12:27 PM
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i thought i was right about neo 6 lol, as for the ohm and watts thing andy not to sure myself only going what i was told by someone in the pro industry for about 20 odd years,

watts in speakers terms means the full load of the power the speaker can use to be driven ohms relates to the signal the speaker receive to drive the signal for the sound, i forget the maths equation that's used exactly though i believe it goes something like this, axb%+c = final rating, it depends on the math's equation used in relation to power ratings the amps can use..


as for 1000 watt per chan at 8 ohm amp and speaker set i have yet to see 1, though i'm not saying their not out there and being used, i just haven't seen 1 available in the home arena yet that's all...
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post #7295 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post

after reading a few 100 threads and I came to an educated opinion that the many people that were having minor/major issues with any giving amp was due to the back feed from the speakers.

This is just crazy talk. How exactly is it that my speakers could feed back into my receiver?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post

As for the khz bit, I noticed in the amp section of specs they gave a sound reading to measure total watts not sure what they are measuring in the testing faze though I'm sure it's not the wattage you can pull out of your speaker or for that matter push into your speaker at a 1 khz level..

I got really curious about this after I posted up the initial post breaking down Onkyo's ratings by frequency for two channels and did some digging. It would seem that some manufacturers have had a history of testing their amplifiers at only one tone and not the fuller range they'd be expected to reproduce, so there are two types of standard tests, a 1 KHz (single frequency) test and the 20 Hz to 20 KHz ("full range") tests. Some folks have suggested that the full range tests were originally required by the FTC or Consumer Electronics Association when amplifiers were more habituated to blowing under normal loads, but I've found no verification of that. At any rate, because the demand on a receiver and the resistance ratings are typically different at these different frequencies, a "full range" test will be the better piece of information to have in hand. That and one should ensure that the resistance load (in ohms) and THD (total harmonic distortion) are listed for the tested power rating (and the THD should be < 1%). The 1 KHz tests are either hang ups from the bad old days of testing or just laziness IMO.

Couple of cool articles about the different specifications and power ratings of receivers:

Sound & Vision, The Amplifier Power Ratings Game

and

ePanorama.net, Understanding Amplifier Power Ratings

And now back to our regularly scheduled programming...

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post #7296 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 01:19 PM
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pretty much what i was talking about was said in different ways though still means the same within those 2 articles that were posted
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post #7297 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghpr13 View Post

Has anybody had any problems connecting a Toslink cable to the 606? I tried both a "premium" and a "regular" Toslink cable from Monoprice and neither one would "snap" into the 606. I'm using the "premium" cable but it's like it just sitting in place. It is working but I'm worried that it could vibrate out. It "snapped" right into my cable STB w/o a problem. (and yes, I've taken off the tiny plastic guard)
Ghpr13

I use a pair of 6' cheapies (2/$6) from Meritline. They do snap in but it's a pretty light detent. Dunno, push a bit harder?
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post #7298 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post

pretty much what i was talking about was said in different ways though still means the same within those 2 articles that were posted

Look, I'm willing to give you the benefit of the doubt here, but this is pushing the limits of even my patience. What you've said so far is mainly in direct conflict with what's delineated in the two articles. They're not the end all be all of electronic engineering either, but you've been stating things like running a 1000 watt rated speaker will blow an amp and that's plainly not the case. It would just have insane amounts of headroom that you'd never tap without a crazy powerful amp. In fact, it would be extraordinarily safe. There's no such thing as feedback from the speaker into the receiver in terms of positive power, yet you've claimed there is. I'd bet money you're one of the guys who says a car shouldn't have too open an exhaust path because an engine needs back pressure too.

There's a lot of myth and nonsense out there and there's also a lot of fact. There are many novice folks in these forums (myself included though I'd probably place myself in the enthusiast ranks these days as I learn more) that are very susceptible to someone such as yourself claiming expertise based on "someone in the pro arena" (which could equally well describe Lansing himself or the slack-jawed teenager that installs HT stuff for Magnolia; hell it could actually be a roadie, now that's funny to picture) and having read "a few 100 threads" on unknown topics. This forum should be a resource for them and not a source of confusion or misinformation.

As others have pointed out, from what you've written so far a few things are plain: 1) you really do need to work on your grammar and spelling (for someone who can use words like "whilst" and "dimwitted", misspelling "fazed" and "capitols" is shameful), 2) you are not expert on the topics you are claiming some level of expertise for (otherwise you wouldn't have nonsense like electrical feedback from speakers running around in your head), and 3) you either don't or choose not to understand the articles that you now claim support your arguments.

I don't intend to belittle you, but it's frustrating when someone begins spouting "educated opinion" in arguments against pointed fact with source citations, especially in the context of a place where others come to learn and share.

I, as kplex, admire your desire to help others, but I would strongly request that you stick to topics wherein you have fact in hand with sources available, or expressing your opinions as such (witness Shinsma's habit I'm trying to adopt of AFAIK, IMHO, IIRCing everything).

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post #7299 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nlsteele View Post

I, as kplex, admire your desire to help others, but I would strongly request that you stick to topics wherein you have fact in hand with sources available, or expressing your opinions as such (witness Shinsma's habit I'm trying to adopt of AFAIK, IMHO, IIRCing everything).

Sure, drag me into this.



In my experience, almost anything you "know for sure" can be wrong. As the great poet John Mayer wrote "most of my memories have escaped me, or confused themselves with dreams".

But yeah, talking tech when not technically savvy/educated (even self-educated thoroughly is OK - not trying to be a snob1) is treading on thin ice - you need to be familiar and conversant (and accurate) with the lingo, otherwise you sound like a used car salesman.

Some specifics I haven't seen delineated recently:

Ohms are a measure of the resistance or "impedance" the speakers present to the amplifier, like a light bulb or, well, resistor.

Power, measured in watts, is the result if pushing voltage through that impedance, resulting in a current flow.

The wattage rating of a speaker is the maximum power that can be pushed through that speaker at a particular distortion level. It is usually fairly close to the max physical power you would want to run through the speaker to avoid damage. If you put 100W into a 10W speaker you will likely damage the speaker due to hyper-extension of the cone, mechanical damage to the magnet subassembly, or overheating the magnet and causing permanent seizing. If you put 10W into a 100W speaker, the speaker is quite happy - it is like a low volume setting, that's all.

So using a 1000W speaker for a 100W receiver is fine, although a waste of over-designed speakers.

The only danger in using a speaker that is much higher in wattage rating than the receiver is that you might crank the receiver to the point that it clips, which can cause damage to any speaker, regardless of capability power-wise.

Speakers don't provide any active feedback into a receiver (they are "passive" devices, by design). Damage from speakers can occur in a receiver if they are too low an impedance, causing the receiver to try to push too much power, and as a result the amplifier can overheat (and usually just shutdown in a safety mode, but if not, then damage can occur).

IMHO, AFAIK, (like you expected anything different),

shinksma

My opinions are my own, and do not necessarily reflect those of my captors.
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post #7300 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 08:35 PM
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Excellent summary shinksma!!!

Here's an easy and simple way to calculate your needs, ... Watts (like AMPs/AVRs) vs. SPL (like HT speakers).

I use the sensitivity rating of my speakers and create a simple Watt vs. SPL chart.

But first, let's understand the basic rules ...

-------------------------
FIRST THE RULES

SPL** = To HEAR an Audible Increase in loudness, the SPL source must increase by 3 dB minimum
Watts = To Increase SPL by 3 dB, would require Doubling the Power (Watt's) Output (basically Watts x 2)
SAFE REF SPL Level: DD-5.1/6.1/7.1 HT Systems = approx. 105 dBc peaks, usually Fast SPL LFE Peaks (avg. SPL approx. 85-95 dBc***)
.... Or -10 dBc below REFERENCE LEVEL (REF LEVEL would approx. have 115 dBc peaks)
-------------------------

Using my JBL S26s as an example ...

Sensitivity = 86 dB @ 1 watt (from) 1 meter

==========
Watts / SPL
1............ 86 dBc
2............ 89
4............ 92
8............ 95
16.......... 98
32.......... 101
64.......... 104
128........ 107
=======

In reality, my JBL S26 just needs a clean 65w (min) x 5.1/6.1/7.1 AMP/AVR to impress the friends and next door neighbor's!!!

Since this is an Onkyo TX-SR606 thread, the Objective Benchmark by Home Theater Magazine just verifies that I have enough Watts to impress the friends / family and disturb the neighbor's!!!

Quote:


HT Labs Measures: Onkyo TX-SR606 A/V Receiver

- Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:

0.1 percent distortion at 81.2 watts
1 percent distortion at 109.4 watts

- Seven channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1 percent distortion at 73.2 watts
1 percent distortion at 87.4 watts

Comfortably more than the simple calculated 64 watts I required to playback my HD DVDs & Blu-ray @ -10 dBc below REF Level!!!

For those who want to get a more accurate Watts vs. SPL, use C.M.Collins excellent ...

SPL CALCULATOR

... to compute the predicted maximum sound pressure level (SPL loudness) at their listening position.


=============

Now, some serious INFO about SPL vs. hearing damage ...

REFERENCE INFO:
**SPL = Sound Pressure Level

***Depending on the level and duration, noise can be a minor irritant, a definite disturbance, or even a threat to your hearing.

Exceeding the following Durations hours vs SPL Average, can permanenty damage your hearing.

===================================
Durations.............. Sound lever (dB),
per day,................ A-Weighting,
hours.................... SLOW response
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
8......................... 90 (dB)
6......................... 82
4........................ 95
3......................... 97
2......................... 100
1-1/2................... 102
1......................... 105
1/2...................... 110
1/4 or less............ 115 (dB)
=========
Permissible noise exposures. Extracted from U.S. Department of Labor noise regulations.

Source ......................... Sound dB-SPL
Jet engine at 3m........................ 140
Threshold of pain....................... 130
Rock concert............................ 120
Accelerating motorcycle at 5m..... 110
Pneumatic hammer at 2m............. 100
Noisy factory............................. 90
Vacuum cleaner......................... 80
Busy traffic............................... 70
Quiet restaurant......................... 50
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post #7301 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinksma View Post

Sure, drag me into this.


IMHO, AFAIK, (like you expected anything different),

shinksma

Shinksma, I see a future in diplomacy for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by piturra View Post

Excellent summary shinksma!!!

Here's an easy and simple way to calculate your needs, ... Watts (like AMPs/AVRs) vs. SPL (like HT speakers).

Phil, as with all things you're a font of knowledge and "da man."

One quick observation, and one quick question. As a psychologist I feel compelled to note that the 3 dB mark is actually referred to as a "Just Noticeable Difference" or 'jnd' for short. Least technical technical term of all time. I think Weber had a sense of humor.

Quick question for you, Phil, given the L880's 91 dB sensitivity rating, but the relatively low ohm test results on them, am I as safe as I think I am from your table? I figured I'd need to be pushing about 32 watts to hit reference of 106 dB if they were 8 ohm, but the wattage should ramp up given their lower resistance levels, right? Or am I missing something? I thought I was going to be at high risk of clipping with the 606 when I was worrying about getting these because of their resistance ratings and the 4 ohm unstable nature of the 606.

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post #7302 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 10:22 PM
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At what volumn level do you normally set the TX606 to when watching a movie?
I have my TX606 paired with Polk Audio RM6750, and even at volumn level 60, it's sill not loud at all, my tv speaker can do better then that, is there some setting I did wrong?
Basically audio is bitstream from my blu-ray player untouched directly into TX606, I set the crossover freq at 120Hz for all of them. Also ran the auto-audyssey, speaker level came out to be -2db for all speakers.
Please someone help me.
Thanks
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post #7303 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawei.wang View Post

At what volumn level do you normally set the TX606 to when watching a movie?
I have my TX606 paired with Polk Audio RM6750, and even at volumn level 60, it's sill not loud at all, my tv speaker can do better then that, is there some setting I did wrong?
Basically audio is bitstream from my blu-ray player untouched directly into TX606, I set the crossover freq at 120Hz for all of them. Also ran the auto-audyssey, speaker level came out to be -2db for all speakers.
Please someone help me.
Thanks

You're fine, you can't go by what anybody else normal volume levels are as there are to many variables, preference, the room plays a major role, speaker placement, the efficiency of the speakers themselves, your source components, decor and materials of the room, etc etc. Each will be different. It sounds like Audyssey set the independent levels to a good position, other than that, don't worry about the number on the volume level, if it's not loud enough, turn it up, if it's to loud, turn it down.

If it's not able to provide the volume levels you want (which I very seriously doubt) then you have an issue and it should be researched. Other than that don't worry about it and enjoy.
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post #7304 of 9489 Old 04-20-2009, 11:59 PM
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Thanks Jakeman02 for your quick reply. I was concerned then, because i think the max volumn allowed on TX606 is 75 or something. So if I set it to 60 just to watch a movie, that doesn't leave a lot of head room to further turn the volumn up.
And I'm not sure if running TX606 continously at almost its peak power level would be harmful to is internal electrical components.
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post #7305 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 12:14 AM
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hey guys i just got my onkyo 606 today came home and tried to set it up and everything but i can't get the hdmi output to work at all. i have a ps3 and a timewarner DVR box, neither work over HDMI. all i get is no signal bouncing around the screen. if i plug them directly in to the TV it works fine. component works for the timewarner box i haven't tried it on the ps3 but i'd imagine it would work just fine too. the TV is an older dynex that only supports 720p if that matters?? i'm ordering new HDMI 1.3a cables from monoprice but i don't know if that would be the issue since everything works when directly plugged in?

this is my tv model DX-LCD37, its like 1 or 2 years old
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post #7306 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by unknown force View Post

hey guys i just got my onkyo 606 today came home and tried to set it up and everything but i can't get the hdmi output to work at all. i have a ps3 and a timewarner DVR box, neither work over HDMI. all i get is no signal bouncing around the screen. if i plug them directly in to the TV it works fine. component works for the timewarner box i haven't tried it on the ps3 but i'd imagine it would work just fine too. the TV is an older dynex that only supports 720p if that matters?? i'm ordering new HDMI 1.3a cables from monoprice but i don't know if that would be the issue since everything works when directly plugged in?

this is my tv model DX-LCD37, its like 1 or 2 years old

I believe you have to assign the inputs from your HDMI cables. I think this will solve this problem. To poorly elaborate, it's one of the system menus. It's fairly simple, I think I went in with the remote, and selected the sources.

Having said that, sometimes the receiver gets wonky with me when choosing between my Roku and Sony BD. For example, I can select the BD with the "multi channel" button on the remote. But sometimes I get dead screen. I then have to manually select DVD, which is what I assigned the BD to. Other times, if I just have the receiver on, and turn on the BD, the 606 picks it up instantly and switches for me. I am thinking it's "set up error" on my part. However, this is best sounding receiver I've ever owned.
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post #7307 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 08:24 AM
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well when i first hooked it up i tried to make everything simple. i ran ps3 to the game (4) input and my timewarner box to cable/sat (3) input so i shouldn't have to actually assign anything should i?
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post #7308 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by unknown force View Post

well when i first hooked it up i tried to make everything simple. i ran ps3 to the game (4) input and my timewarner box to cable/sat (3) input so i shouldn't have to actually assign anything should i?

Don't think that will work, you need to set up the HDMI and digital audio inputs. Is the tuner working?
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post #7309 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 10:47 AM
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i doubt the hdmi will be on by default in the ps3 you may have to enable it in the ps3 settings 1st before the amp detects it, assuming you haven't done this already..
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post #7310 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 10:55 AM
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the PS3 should already be set up for HDMI since it autodetects, if i plug it directly in to the TV it works via hdmi so i know its setup for hdmi and everything. i hooked up both the AM/FM tuners and they work fine. if i use component out to the TV everything hooked up via component works but as soon as i go to HDMI i get no video signal :\\ i have no HDMI cables on the way from monoprice but idk if that would be the issue.

i just got home and have it running to my other TV with HDMI still having the same issue. i am just trying to get my timewarner box at least, i can get audio via HDMI but still no signal, and the signal goes out every couple of seconds and does a little pop then comes back for a few seconds and disappears again. again if i have it hooked up directly it works fine with the timewarner box and the TV
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post #7311 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unknown force View Post

the PS3 should already be set up for HDMI since it autodetects, if i plug it directly in to the TV it works via hdmi so i know its setup for hdmi and everything. i hooked up both the AM/FM tuners and they work fine. if i use component out to the TV everything hooked up via component works but as soon as i go to HDMI i get no video signal :\\ i have no HDMI cables on the way from monoprice but idk if that would be the issue.

i just got home and have it running to my other TV with HDMI still having the same issue. i am just trying to get my timewarner box at least, i can get audio via HDMI but still no signal, and the signal goes out every couple of seconds and does a little pop then comes back for a few seconds and disappears again. again if i have it hooked up directly it works fine with the timewarner box and the TV

It sounds like you went HDMI from PS3 to 606, then component from 606 to TV? That won't work. HDMI inputs will only go to the HDMI output.

Also make sure to set everything on the 606 to defaults.

TiVo is on it's way out - stream everything!
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post #7312 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 11:56 AM
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no i switched to component just to see if it would work with my timewarner box and with component everything works fine. but now i am trying Timewarner HD box -> hdmi cable -> 606 -> hdmi cable -> TV and all i can get is audio that breaks up every couple seconds. i've cleared the receiver and redid the setup and everything but still can't get the picture. it was a reduced price item at frys but everything was still in the plastic and sealed so i doubt that was an issue either
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post #7313 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by unknown force View Post

the PS3 should already be set up for HDMI since it autodetects, if i plug it directly in to the TV it works via hdmi so i know its setup for hdmi and everything. i hooked up both the AM/FM tuners and they work fine. if i use component out to the TV everything hooked up via component works but as soon as i go to HDMI i get no video signal :\\ i have no HDMI cables on the way from monoprice but idk if that would be the issue.

i just got home and have it running to my other TV with HDMI still having the same issue. i am just trying to get my timewarner box at least, i can get audio via HDMI but still no signal, and the signal goes out every couple of seconds and does a little pop then comes back for a few seconds and disappears again. again if i have it hooked up directly it works fine with the timewarner box and the TV

Have you tried adjusting the Output Resolution on the HDMI under the 'Hardware" section of the 'Setup' menu? Since your TV only accepts 720p, I'd try setting it to 'Through' (to see if it can use the PS3's autoconfig), 'Auto' (this was likely the default it's already on), and '720p' (to force the output).

One other possibility would be seeing if they'll read in the first two HDMI positions (i.e., immediately left of the output is #1 and left of that is #2). IIRC, the HDMI switch goes to them in order and so there may be an issue with putting stuff way down the line.

Edit: Also, I don't know anything about PS3s, but with a two stage connection you might want to force it to 720p output if you can in case it autodetects the 606's 1080i capability and tries to force that through to the TV unabated.

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post #7314 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 12:40 PM
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i have the timewarner box set to 720p only so that it won't change, i've tried having the receiver to Auto, Through, 720p as well and none of them make any different
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post #7315 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 12:42 PM
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i have the timewarner box set to 720p only so that it won't change, i've tried having the receiver to Auto, Through, 720p as well and none of them make any different

Do you get the on screen display from the 606 on your TV?

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post #7316 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 12:51 PM
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nope. all i can do is use the display on the actual receiver itself. it seems like my TV, both of them, just don't detect a video signal, if i try audiothroughTV instead of surround, nothing from the TV as well
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post #7317 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 12:53 PM
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nope. all i can do is use the display on the actual receiver itself. it seems like my TV, both of them, just don't detect a video signal, if i try audiothroughTV instead of surround, nothing from the TV as well

Sounds like the cable between the TV and the 606 is bad, or you're not properly setting the configuration on the 606 to 720p (which can be harder to do without the OSD).

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post #7318 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 01:12 PM
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i went through setup, hardwaresetup, 7-5 HDMI, Reso: 720p. i have the timewarner box set to 720p only too. still can only get the audio that pops in and out every couple seconds :\\ i've used 3 different HDMI cables, which all work when directly plugged in like PS3->TV or timewarner->TV, with the receiver to TV but still no video. i have new HDMI cables coming from monoprice and if those don't work then i'm going to exchange it and hope that fixes it, i'm just thinking maybe thats the reason it was a reduced price item. i'm running out of menus to go through haha
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post #7319 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unknown force View Post

i went through setup, hardwaresetup, 7-5 HDMI, Reso: 720p. i have the timewarner box set to 720p only too. still can only get the audio that pops in and out every couple seconds :\\ i've used 3 different HDMI cables, which all work when directly plugged in like PS3->TV or timewarner->TV, with the receiver to TV but still no video. i have new HDMI cables coming from monoprice and if those don't work then i'm going to exchange it and hope that fixes it, i'm just thinking maybe thats the reason it was a reduced price item. i'm running out of menus to go through haha

Have you tried them in the HDMI input #1 (DVD) and #2 (can't remember) spots?

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post #7320 of 9489 Old 04-21-2009, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unknown force View Post

i went through setup, hardwaresetup, 7-5 HDMI, Reso: 720p. i have the timewarner box set to 720p only too. still can only get the audio that pops in and out every couple seconds :\\ i've used 3 different HDMI cables, which all work when directly plugged in like PS3->TV or timewarner->TV, with the receiver to TV but still no video. i have new HDMI cables coming from monoprice and if those don't work then i'm going to exchange it and hope that fixes it, i'm just thinking maybe thats the reason it was a reduced price item. i'm running out of menus to go through haha

You said it works when using component in? That doesn't make sense if you don't get the OSD from the Onkyo at all. That means the connection from the Onkyo to the TV is not working.

You should focus first on getting the OSD working properly. Are you sure you have HDMI output turned on, and you're plugging all the cables into the right HDMI ports on the back? And look into the HDMI ports on the Onkyo to ensure they aren't damaged.

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