Official Harman Kardon AVR 254 & 354 Owners Thread - Page 153 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4561 of 4576 Old 04-05-2016, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by grundig2k View Post
I'm curious, Am I the last person on earth with a Working problem free AVR 254?
Mine still works. Well, everything but the iffy HDMI. Some days I can get through a full movie, other days I have to reset power it off/on a couple times during the course of the movie. I finally "gave up" and just ran all the HDMI stuff directly to the TV, then from the TV back to the 254 via optical. Works fine, and I can't tell a difference (oops... did I just out myself as being a low-maintenance home theater person?). And even if there is a slight difference, not having HDMI drop out at during peak scenes makes up for it.

FWIW, mine was a late-cycle refurb from HK. It had most of the updates done at the factory. I'm running the last firmware. And I've had small computer fan sucking air over it (drawing from the bottom of my cabinet) since the beginning -- I don't think it's a heat issue. And at this point, I don't even care. As long has the optical in and zone 2 out keep working I'll keep running it!
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post #4562 of 4576 Old 04-05-2016, 04:39 PM
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That's great to hear!!! Glad I'm not the only one left in the world!! (LOL) not knocking but pounding on my wood table.
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post #4563 of 4576 Old 04-22-2016, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by grundig2k View Post
That's great to hear!!! Glad I'm not the only one left in the world!! (LOL) not knocking but pounding on my wood table.

Well I can't FRACKING believe what just happened!!!! So I was listening to my newly purchased A Perfect Circle, Mere De Noms 180gram Limited Edition album and my AVR 254 went into Dolby H:BYPASS Mode and will not play any Audio? The Auto Setup plug is not plugged in. I unplugged it from the power outlet for 20 minutes then plugged it back in same thing? I plugged in the Auto setup adapter (into the headphone jack) and went through the speaker setup, it sent signals everything seemed like it was going good then it finished and I unplugged it and it went back into DOLBY H:BYPASS mode? Anybody have any idea's what could have happened or any help? Please!!!!!!............I am totally crushed and kinda upset!!!! I tried it on all modes (xbox one/FM/TV/Aux record player) get the same message. Any input would be appreciated.


Kindest Regards,
Eddie

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post #4564 of 4576 Old 04-23-2016, 08:55 AM
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If your using HDMI for audio, try switching to optical and see if you get sound

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post #4565 of 4576 Old 04-23-2016, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by dmb12679 View Post
If your using HDMI for audio, try switching to optical and see if you get sound

That is how i'm using it (optical for all audio) besides my pre-amp for my Turntable going into the Aux of the HK but after letting it sit I tried it again (very late last night) and all is well again. I'm wondering if it was over heating? Yesterday and last night was pretty worm here in the East (Boston area) so i'm wondering if that had something to do with it. I did have it cranking ( Wife and I rocking out with some cocktails) I have it in a enclosed cabinet and thinking I might need to add a exhaust fan in there? There's about 7 inches of clearance on top and about 5 inches on the sides but the front is open. Has me worried though. what do you think?

Last edited by grundig2k; 04-23-2016 at 03:55 PM.
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post #4566 of 4576 Old 04-25-2016, 03:58 AM
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It sure won't hurt it. For $10-20 you could take the heat out of the equation.

Marantz SR6010 -- Marantz MM7025 -- Marantz UD5007
Klipsch RF-7ii's - RC-64ii - RB-51ii's - RS-42ii's - R-112sw(x2)

B&K AVR507
Denon DVD2900
Klipsch RF-7ii's
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post #4567 of 4576 Old 04-25-2016, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dmb12679 View Post
It sure won't hurt it. For $10-20 you could take the heat out of the equation.



Yeah I picked this up on Amazon, will be here tomorrow. http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-PRO...ilpage_o00_s00


Don't want to lose my HK 254, What a strange coincidence though I get this thread going again asking if I was the last one with a working one with no problems!!!??? and Bam that happens.
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post #4568 of 4576 Old 04-27-2016, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by dmb12679 View Post
It sure won't hurt it. For $10-20 you could take the heat out of the equation.

Ended up getting this one for the top part of the cabinet for the Harman Kardon 254 http://www.amazon.com/CabCool-Lite-C...ilpage_o01_s00


Cut a hole in the side of the cabinet to accommodate the exhaust fan and got the front open and all is well as of now.


And the single fan for the bottom part of the cabinet for my Xbox One and Turntable. Listening to Physical Graffiti LP and felt the top of the 254 and big difference in heat. I don't know why I didn't do this years ago???!!!! I thought you was supposed to get smarter with age???? Not in my case apparently.


Take care everybody!
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post #4569 of 4576 Old 04-28-2016, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grundig2k View Post
Ended up getting this one for the top part of the cabinet for the Harman Kardon 254 http://www.amazon.com/CabCool-Lite-C...ilpage_o01_s00


Cut a hole in the side of the cabinet to accommodate the exhaust fan and got the front open and all is well as of now.


And the single fan for the bottom part of the cabinet for my Xbox One and Turntable. Listening to Physical Graffiti LP and felt the top of the 254 and big difference in heat. I don't know why I didn't do this years ago???!!!! I thought you was supposed to get smarter with age???? Not in my case apparently.


Take care everybody!

I said the same thing after I went through 3 avr's, and it had the recommended ventialation each time. My flagship 3700 ran hot even when no power was being sent to speakers, idle but on. Oh well, live and learn.

Marantz SR6010 -- Marantz MM7025 -- Marantz UD5007
Klipsch RF-7ii's - RC-64ii - RB-51ii's - RS-42ii's - R-112sw(x2)

B&K AVR507
Denon DVD2900
Klipsch RF-7ii's
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post #4570 of 4576 Old 05-19-2016, 09:40 AM
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Ok just an update, since I added the exhaust fans everything has been good. It has not done "that thing" again since (Thank goodness) so I've added the Cambridge Audio Azur 551P pre amp and purchased a Shure 97XE Cartridge. Picked up a Technics Needle Gauge Adjustment and used the protractor for the Audio Techinica lp120 and HOLY CRAP!!! I'm totally amazed at the sound coming out of my system!!! I'm in love with music again (well 60's and 70's music LOL)




Take care to all my HK friends and everyone.
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post #4571 of 4576 Old 02-01-2017, 07:26 PM
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HK AVR 20 ii

Hi, when using the "Front Main In" in order to use this AVR as a "power amp", what speaker outputs are active? Front 1 & 2 only, or are the center and rear also active? Or, just the #1 Front only?

Thanks in advance.

It used to be:"Wine, Women and Song"Now it's: "Beer, The Old Lady and TV"My Theater Build http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/Gr...?sort=6&page=1
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post #4572 of 4576 Old 02-01-2017, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by gregavi View Post
Hi, when using the "Front Main In" in order to use this AVR as a "power amp", what speaker outputs are active? Front 1 & 2 only, or are the center and rear also active? Or, just the #1 Front only?

Thanks in advance.

Front Main in, has two inputs correct? One would be for your left and one your right, the corresponding amps would be used for your speakers. Your other amps should be active, but will have no sound source to them unless you put a sound source to them.

Marantz SR6010 -- Marantz MM7025 -- Marantz UD5007
Klipsch RF-7ii's - RC-64ii - RB-51ii's - RS-42ii's - R-112sw(x2)

B&K AVR507
Denon DVD2900
Klipsch RF-7ii's
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post #4573 of 4576 Old 02-01-2017, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dmb12679 View Post
Front Main in, has two inputs correct? One would be for your left and one your right, the corresponding amps would be used for your speakers. Your other amps should be active, but will have no sound source to them unless you put a sound source to them.
Thanks for the reply.

I guess you're not understanding my question or I'm not understanding your answer. I understand how the "pre-out/main in" works. Yes there are 2 RCA inputs on the HK. The pre-outs would be coming from my Denon AVR zone 2 pre-outs>the HK main in. My question is, what speaker terminals will be active (from the Denon zone 2 source) on the HK in this setup? All of them? Only the Fronts? etc. Side note: There are 2 sets (#1 & #2) of "Front Speaker" terminals on the HK and in a separate speaker terminal section, the left rear/right rear/center terminals.

Thanks again.

It used to be:"Wine, Women and Song"Now it's: "Beer, The Old Lady and TV"My Theater Build http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/Gr...?sort=6&page=1
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post #4574 of 4576 Old 06-05-2017, 12:12 PM
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No HDMI, upgraded 3.15A fuses were blown

I just repaired an AVR254 for a friend. It was not passing any HDMI signals.

After reading up on it here on AVS Forum, I decided to check the two infamous fuses on the HDMI power supply board, F110 & F111. Sure enough, they were open (blown).

The weird part is: those fuses had already been upgraded to 3.15 Amp as per the H-K service bulletin, probably when he took it to Best Buy for servicing several years ago. It also had the recommended "HDMI board to Regulator board jumper wire" upgrade/mod installed as well.

After I replaced the blown fuses, it's now working fine again (so far).

Question for the experts here: how likely is it that those fuses will blow again? Does this tend to happen over time due to a design flaw or whatever?

Last edited by johnbeekman; 06-05-2017 at 10:19 PM.
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post #4575 of 4576 Old 06-05-2017, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by johnbeekman View Post
I just repaired an AVR254 for a firiend. It was not passing any HDMI signals.

After reading up on it here on AVS Forum, I decided to check the two infamous fuses on the HDMI power supply board, F110 & F111. Sure enough, they were open (blown).

The weird part is: those fuses had already been upgraded to 3.15 Amp as per the H-K service bulletin, probably when he took it to Best Buy for servicing several years ago. It also had the recommended "HDMI board to Regulator board jumper wire" upgrade/mod installed as well.

After I replaced the blown fuses, it's now working fine again (so far).

Question for the experts here: how likely is it that those fuses will blow again? Does this tend to happen over time due to a design flaw or whatever?
There was a service bulletin released a few years back about the failure for the subject fuses. I don't recall all of the details, but I think a few other components were recommended changing as well...

Check directly with HK support they should be able to provide U a copy of the service bulletin.

Just my $0.02...
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post #4576 of 4576 Old Today, 06:50 AM
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There was a service bulletin released a few years back about the failure for the subject fuses. I don't recall all of the details, but I think a few other components were recommended changing as well...
Yes, I'm familiar with the service bulletin you're referring to (# HK2008-03). That's what pointed me toward the two fuses as the likely cuplrits. That bulletin recommended three separate upgrades/mods:
1) Replace F110 & F111 with higher-value fuses (2.5A -> 3.15A).
2) Install a jumper wire between HDMI board & Regulator board.
3) Perform a firmware update.

As I said, the receiver appears to have already had all three of those upgrades performed when it was brought in to Best Buy for service several years ago.

(btw, there was also another service bulletin (# HK2008-04) which recommended the upgrade of two capacitors on the same board. But this particular unit is from late 2008, and appears to have had the upgraded caps installed at the factory).

Anyway, tt is now working again after replacing the two blown 3.15A fuses. But I'm just a bit mystified as to what caused those two fuses to blow, given that they were of the recommended higher-amperage value of 3.15A. My guess is that it must be a design flaw. I've seen other posts where users have recommended just replacing those fuses with a jumper wire. But to me that sounds too much like sticking a penny in a fuse box - probably not a good idea safety-wise.
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