*Official* Denon AVR 1909/789 Thread - Page 378 - AVS Forum
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post #11311 of 11334 Old 03-01-2014, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Pro Logic is irrelevant to the input side.

Can you snap a photo of the display so I can see what you are talking about?

Sure. Here you go. Most of the time the S under L and R is absent with 2.0 input, but not always. Sorry for the poor quality pic.
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post #11312 of 11334 Old 03-01-2014, 06:49 PM
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What is more interesting is that when watching OnDemand content that is 2.0 when the commercials are on the S is missing and when the HD program is on it is there under and in-between FL/FR. Right now I am watching H5O from last night ad it is of course 5.1 so I have the five lights lit up (LFE,Fl,C,FR,SL and SR).
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post #11313 of 11334 Old 03-01-2014, 06:52 PM
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Sorry not SW, LFE I corrected the last post. At first I thought it was for SW, but it is clearly a S for surround that indicates both rear surround inputs? There is a pic of all the lights in the manual, but of course there is no explanation of them. All are obvious, except for this behavior.
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post #11314 of 11334 Old 03-02-2014, 04:38 AM
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Interesting. I'm betting it's picking up a Dolby Surround flag (you can see the input is Dolby a Digital 2.0 not PCM) where a surround signal is matrix encoded with the surround signal for extraction: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolby_Surround

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post #11315 of 11334 Old 03-02-2014, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Interesting. I'm betting it's picking up a Dolby Surround flag (you can see the input is Dolby a Digital 2.0 not PCM) where a surround signal is matrix encoded with the surround signal for extraction: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolby_Surround
That is what I thought. I've only seen this/noticed it recently. It probably changes nothing for sq but a nice indication that surround is matrixed.
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post #11316 of 11334 Old 03-02-2014, 08:55 AM
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Looks like there is a specific set of bits to indicate surround matrix on ac-3/dd content. I bet that is it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolby_Digital
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post #11317 of 11334 Old 03-10-2014, 11:06 AM
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I upgraded to a Denon X3000 and would like to sell my 1909. Any ideas on what a fair price is for this model?

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post #11318 of 11334 Old 03-10-2014, 11:07 AM
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Probably around $150ish
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post #11319 of 11334 Old 03-15-2014, 08:18 AM
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Hi,

 

I am having problems with my Chromecast connected to a Denon AVR-1909 receiver. When I have switched off the receiver, or switched the input to something other then the Chromecast for a while, I have to reboot the Chromecast to get the picture back. Before the reboot, apps like YouTube and Netflix still seem to connect fine to the device, but there is no picture or sound. The device is still online and I can reboot it through the Android app, and that helps. It's really annoying though, any tips on how to avoid the reboots?

 

Connecting it directly to an HDMI port on the TV works fine, so I guess it's a receiver issue.

 

Thanks Markus

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post #11320 of 11334 Old 04-15-2014, 02:34 PM
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I also have a Denon 1909 and purchased a Roku streaming stick. I've tried connecting it thru the AVR but no go. Through the HDTV works fine but no surround. Is this me or a AVR issue. Thanks in advance.

Drew
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post #11321 of 11334 Old 04-15-2014, 03:29 PM
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Some of those sticks require an MHL port. My understanding of the "new" Roku stick is that it will work with "any" HDMI port where the original was MHL only. Sounds like to me that it is an HDMI handshake issue where the stick is having a hard time reading, detecting and handshake with the HDMI port since it is not a TV and may be having issues getting through to the TV. Probably very similar to the many cable/satellite STB handshake issues we have seen.

You might try playing with your HDMI pass-thru options on the AVR I have noticed mine acts different depending on how those are set. Seem to work best when HDMI pass-thru is turned off. I think that is the setting. It is the one that allows HDMI to go through with the AVR in standby and uses ~60watts of power even in standby.

There might also be a web interface you can use to contact the Roku or Cromecast to force the resolution and such. When Amazon releases their FireTV stick which at some point I am sure they will I'm sure there will be similar issues. I personally have stuck with the Roku boxes as they always work and they can be had for about the same cost if you shop/hunt around. I see no compelling reason to buy a Amazon FireTV or Chromecast and have less capability than the Roku already gives us. Except being able to send streamed content from my laptop to the HT is compelling.
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post #11322 of 11334 Old 04-15-2014, 11:04 PM
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Thanks for the prompt response mr.kludge. I did send an email to Roku citing the issue and did site a possible handshake issue before I posted here but they haven't responded yet. I knew posting here I would get a quick response. I'll let you know what they say if they respond.
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post #11323 of 11334 Old 04-16-2014, 01:58 PM
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Living with a 6 year old AVR you never know if your new fangled device is going to work or play nice. However on the other hand I am always amazed with all the new stuff I have acquired that work just fine; RaspberryPI, Roku, newish SACD/DVD-Audio player, several new Comcast cable boxes including the new X1/X2. Seems I made the right choice when I decided to stick with Denon five years ago when I upgraded from an AVR-486 (which I still have and still works). I haven't ran into anything yet that I could not get to work with little finagling.
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post #11324 of 11334 Old 04-21-2014, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dru4220 View Post

Thanks for the prompt response mr.kludge. I did send an email to Roku citing the issue and did site a possible handshake issue before I posted here but they haven't responded yet. I knew posting here I would get a quick response. I'll let you know what they say if they respond.

Any updates? I'm thinking about picking up a Roku and am placing some value on your experience since I want to plug it into my Denon AVR.
Thanks!
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post #11325 of 11334 Old 04-21-2014, 01:46 PM
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While you wait for an update on the Roku stick. Just my .02. If you are contemplating a Roku, buy one of their regular units. The reason being if you want to plug it into the Denon then you will still have to plug it into a power sucking alien wall wart just like the normal ones unless you have an MHL port which the 1909/789 lacks. The cost is about the same and you can always move it and use it for other things and even TVs that lack HDMI if you get one with other outputs. They are small enough to travel with to plug into hotel TVs. Also if you get the regular one you can plug in a USB drive and play your MP4s and MKVs. Personally I love mine and have never had any issues with it and the 1909. I'm not sure what model it is and it is a couple three years old now. It was the 1st one that had the motion remote and Angry Birds included. I don't think mine has the audio output port for headphones on the remote. I think that feature came out after I bought mine. If I remember right they were ~$99 when I bought mine, but I found an open box slightly used one on Amazon for ~$70 or so. They have since dropped quite a bit in price. I bought this one to replace an older one that I bought on Woot for like $50 including shipping. That one did not do full 1080p and my daughter has been using it for the past year with no trouble.
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post #11326 of 11334 Old 04-21-2014, 02:17 PM
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Here's what Denon emailed:

Hi Drew,

Since your other HDMI sources have no issue passing through the receiver, the issue is not with the receiver. You are experiencing and EDID issue with your TV, where it is not recognizing the Roku signal when routed through the receiver. Please make sure that the firmware in the TV has been updated.

Should the issue persist, we would recommend connecting the Roku stick directly to the TV and then using an Optical cable connection from the TV into the receiver for Audio.


Thank you,

Technical Support/Custom Install
D+M Group


So I don't know what to do or where to go at this point.
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post #11327 of 11334 Old 04-21-2014, 02:30 PM
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If it were me I would just plug into the TV and then send the TV optical out to the AVR much like we had to do in the good ol' days of cable and sat STBs. The only sound quality that you will be missing will be with DD+ that Netflix is sending out now and DD+>7.1 that VuDu is sending out. Other than that most of the other streamers are only 2.0 DD audio anyhow. I forget if I have ever seen DD 5.1 output on Amazon. The recent drop of 24 off or Netflix has got me chapped since it is only on Amazon now and most of the seasons are SD with 2.0 audio though the picture looks pretty good. But not as good as it was on Netflix with 1080p video and 5.1 DD+. Either that or return the stick and buy a Roku STB instead.
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post #11328 of 11334 Old 06-23-2014, 06:37 PM
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Hello everyone,

I have a 1909 and just today I started experiencing my first problem and wanted to see if any of you have some advice. I am sorry I didn't read the whole thread in advance .

When I got home today I put the TV on and the TV signal kept dropping in and out, I assumed it was a handshake issue and started troubleshooting. I plugged in my Apple TV to the input I had the cable box in (Input 1) and no issues. I then thought it could be a bad cable so I switched out the HDMI cable from the cable box to input 1 and same handshake issue. I tried the cable box into input 2 and same handshake issue. My PS4 and Apple TV work fine on any receiver input. I then plugged in the cable box directly into the TV (HDMI2) and no issue. So from my troubleshooting its not the cable, its not the cable source and its not (technically) the receiver. Which leaves me blank on what I need to do to fix the issue. I currently have the cable box plugged in directly into the TV. This has never happened before, I appreciate any help anyone can give. Thanks in advance!
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post #11329 of 11334 Old 06-23-2014, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aphxtwinin View Post
Hello everyone,

I have a 1909 and just today I started experiencing my first problem and wanted to see if any of you have some advice. I am sorry I didn't read the whole thread in advance .

When I got home today I put the TV on and the TV signal kept dropping in and out, I assumed it was a handshake issue and started troubleshooting. I plugged in my Apple TV to the input I had the cable box in (Input 1) and no issues. I then thought it could be a bad cable so I switched out the HDMI cable from the cable box to input 1 and same handshake issue. I tried the cable box into input 2 and same handshake issue. My PS4 and Apple TV work fine on any receiver input. I then plugged in the cable box directly into the TV (HDMI2) and no issue. So from my troubleshooting its not the cable, its not the cable source and its not (technically) the receiver. Which leaves me blank on what I need to do to fix the issue. I currently have the cable box plugged in directly into the TV. This has never happened before, I appreciate any help anyone can give. Thanks in advance!
A couple ideas. a) Could be a new firmware update on the cable box causing this or b) might be a flaky connection probably on the cable box end but could also be with the cable etc. If other things are working fine on all ports with all cables it's probably your cable box and not the AVR. In your testing you might have beat the HDMI port on the cable box into submission.
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post #11330 of 11334 Old 06-23-2014, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aphxtwinin View Post
So from my troubleshooting its not the cable, its not the cable source and its not (technically) the receiver. Which leaves me blank on what I need to do to fix the issue. I currently have the cable box plugged in directly into the TV. This has never happened before, I appreciate any help anyone can give. Thanks in advance!
Hi aphxtwinin, appears the cable box is having issue. This has happen just a few times with my Uverse box and all I did was reset the cable box or unplug the power cord. If this doesn't correct the issue then leave the cable box connected directly to the TV and run an optical cable from the cable box to receiver. This gives you the option of using the TV speakers when you don't want to turn on the 1909. Or another option is using component cables and optical (or digital coaxial) cable from cable box to receiver. You're not likely to notice much difference.
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post #11331 of 11334 Old 06-23-2014, 08:31 PM
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thanks for the help! I'm starting to suspect the cable box more as well, I'll reset it and take it from there.
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post #11332 of 11334 Old Yesterday, 08:08 AM
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Last night I tried to plug my Sennheiser headphones into my AVR-1909 and found that the plug would not insert fully into the headphone jack; it sticks out about a 1/4 of an inch, and needless to say, I get no sound. I tried blasting the jack with liquid air and probing with a soft plastic wand, but to no avail: the plug will just not fit fully into the jack. I tried the plug in another set of headphones and experienced the same debacle. Has anyone experienced this problem before? Can the jack be replaced at a reasonable cost? Alternatively, is there some sort of workaround which would allow me to use headphones without using the headphone jack? I don't really want to replace the receiver at this point, but I do like the option of listening on headphones after the rest of the family has gone to bed.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Last edited by ochsfan; Yesterday at 08:13 AM.
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post #11333 of 11334 Old Yesterday, 09:24 AM
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Try popping the top and see if there is an obstruction that can be removed.

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post #11334 of 11334 Old Yesterday, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ochsfan View Post
I don't really want to replace the receiver at this point, but I do like the option of listening on headphones after the rest of the family has gone to bed.

Any help would be much appreciated.
I have been doing the same thing (HD170 headphones at night into my 1909) for years. About six months ago I replaced the 1909 with a Denon x3000...and still have my 1909 if you want it for market price.

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