My tx-sr706 lost HDMI completely after about 4 years of flawless operation, no earlier warning signs, just gave up from one day to the next.
All audio was still ok (is going over optical input), though intermittent if a hdmi plug was still inserted in the activated (selected) channel.
I saw several threads of other types of receivers suffering the same, if not intermittent or temperature related, and several mentioning capacitors on the HDMI board.
The intermittent sound (if HDMI plug inserted) together with the posts on other types I saw made me assume the HDMI chips were still ok, and intermittently and briefly recognized the HDMI signals but mostly failed due to too much noise on the boards supply voltages.
What I did to solve it:
Replaced many of the surface mount capacitors with same capacitance "through hole" types (leaded types) 5000H/105°C low ESR, some with slightly higher voltage types.
All runs smooth again.
Be very aware: if not having soldering experience it's very easy to damage the board while removing the smd capacitors!
Also, soldering leaded capacitors on smd pads requires at least soldering experience and a steady hand.
Keep an eye on replacement capacitors diameter, if the replacement is "too fat" it might get difficult to get it on the board next to other parts. That's why I also put the diameters in my listing below (column "dia").
Don't worry about jacket color or things like that, just try and find 105°C low ESR type capacitors. Most manufacturers make them and they cost next to nothing.
I selected 5000H types (5000hours) since by experience it looked about right to me, but I know you can even find 20.000H types too which are of course more expensive.
Selecting 2000H/105°C types will also do the trick just fine, but they may/will fail somewhat sooner in the future.
Keep an open eye on polarity!
The top of the SMD types is blackened on the "minus" side, and leaded capacitors usually have the shortest lead and a fat white or black line on their "minus" side.
Now why didn't I replace SMD capacitors with SMD capacitors?
Simple: when removing the onboard capacitors you'll soon notice the leads for them are mostly UNDER the capacitor, making removal a tedious job and soldering new ones practically impossible.
Using wired types (leaded types) facilitates soldering alot, because you can leave 1-2mm underneath while re-soldering them on the SMD pads.
Make sure you can tilt the capacitors to a flat onboard position afterwards, not to exceed the available space above and especially below the board.
Best tips to give:
- take your time
- use a temperature controlled soldering station
- make sure to take proper precautions with respect to static electricity by grounding the soldering iron to the HDMI-board
- don't stroke the cat while soldering
The list of capacitors I replaced:
The 5 first columns is mostly information directly out of the service manual I found on the net some time ago, see link at the end in this post
The only columns of real interest to you are the first column and the last three columns : which capacitor, where is it situated on the HDMI board, what max diameter, and what replacement value I used.
silkscreen description part n° elco marking schematicvalue location dia(mm) new type c8602 CEWX4V-100M 3981G1017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 top 5 100uF/10V c7204 CEWX4V-100M 3981G1017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 top 5 100uF/10V c7304 CEWX4V-100M 3981G1017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 top 5 100uF/10V c3302 CEWX4V-100M 3981G1017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 top 5 100uF/10V c8043 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c3-220-4v 220/4 top 6 220uF/10V c3477 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c3-220-4v 220/4 top 6 220uF/10V c7206 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c3-220-4v 220/4 top 6 220uF/10V c3577 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c3-220-4v 220/4 top 6 220uF/10V c7306 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c3-220-4v 220/4 top 6 220uF/10V c8956 UCD1A471MNL1GS 396634717R2 c2-470a-cd 470/10 top 8 470uF/10V c8957 UCD1A471MNL1GS 396634717R2 c2-470a-cd 470/10 top 8 470uF/10V c8958 UCD1A471MNL1GS 396634717R2 c2-470a-cd 470/10 top 8 470uF/10V c8994 UCD1E221MNL1GS 396652217R2 y2-220e-cd 220/25 top 8 220uF/25V c8995 UCD1E221MNL1GS 396652217R2 y2-220e-cd 220/25 top 8 220uF/25V c8996 UCD1E221MNL1GS 396652217R2 y2-220e-cd 220/25 top 8 220uF/25V c8041 CEWX16V-100M 398141017R2 c4-100-16v 100/16 bottom 6 100uF/25V c8024 CEWX16V-100M 398141017R2 c4-100-16v 100/16 bottom 6 100uF/25V c8021 CEWX16V-100M 398141017R2 c4-100-16v 100/16 bottom 6 100uF/25V c8328 CEWX16V-22M 398142207R2 c4-22-16v 22/16 bottom 5 22uF/25V c8675 CEWX4V-100M 3981G1017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 bottom 5 100uF/10V c8162 CEWX4V-100M 3981G1017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 bottom 5 100uF/10V c8607 CEWX4V-100M 3981G1017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 bottom 5 100uF/10V c8609 CEWX4V-100M 3981G1017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 bottom 5 100uF/10V c8023 CEWX4V-100M 3981G1017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 bottom 5 100uF/10V c8919 CEWX4V-100M 398141017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 bottom 5 100uF/10V c3502 CEWX4V-100M 3981G1017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 bottom 5 100uF/10V c3402 CEWX4V-100M 3981G1017R2 c3-100-4v 100/4 bottom 5 100uF/10V c8443 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c4-220-4v 220/4 bottom 6 220uF/10V c8026 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c4-220-4v 220/4 bottom 6 220uF/10V c8044 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c4-220-4v 220/4 bottom 6 220uF/10V c8605 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c4-220-4v 220/4 bottom 6 220uF/10V c3505 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c4-220-4v 220/4 bottom 6 220uF/10V c3584 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c4-220-4v 220/4 bottom 6 220uF/10V c3405 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c4-220-4v 220/4 bottom 6 220uF/10V c3484 CEWX4V-220M 3981G2217R2 c4-220-4v 220/4 bottom 6 220uF/10V c8099 CEWX50V-2.2M 398180227R2 y4-2.2-50v 105z bottom 3 2.2uF/50V
The cost of it all? About 50 dollar alltogether, including shipment (yes, I payed way too much for the components, but I wanted to get them really fast ).
Replacing them all only took me a couple of hours of intensive work, but taking a whole day pays off if you need it so don't worry about taking your time. Just being very carefull not to damage the HDMI board is the main concern here.
And yes, I did take the trouble of replacing the larger power supply capacitors c8956-c8957-c8958 and c8994-c8995-c8996 just to make sure, since if those aren't good any more then replacing smaller capacitors further down in the circuit will not do the trick to solve any problem whatsoever.
Another thing I noticed:
On the power amplifier cooling fin a small ventilator is mounted, it is connected to connector P4501 on the board just below the HDMI board.
This fan is controlled by the onboard microprocessor and a couple of transistors.
This fan points generally in the right direction to generate at least some air circulation on the HDMI board.
Given the fact the receiver runs fairly hot, and capacitor problems are (too often) caused by running them too hot over long time, it might be a good idea to have the fan run continuously.
This can easily be done by short-circuiting switching transistor Q4502 collector to emitter. The transistor is type 2SA950-Y, data sheets for it are all over internet.
If not sure which transistor pad is what, try and find capacitor C4502, remove it and just connect (short circuit) both pads (C4502 is placed directly over collector-emitter of Q4502)
Q4502 and C4502 are located only few centimeters away from connector P4501, so they should be fairly easy to find.
Or if not willing to run the fan at continuously full speed, try and experiment some by placing a resistor over C4502 until you find the right/acceptable speed for the fan.
The service manuals consist of 2 parts.
The service manual can be downloaded at
If the links on this page doesn't work (for instance due to ad-blockers or due to the fact this forum somehow garbles it when calling it), then just copy it as text and paste it in your browser addres line.
Can some of ya'll help me with a decision...
Our tx sr 706 is at the repair shop (certified & seems like good dudes), they told me the board needed replaced and the cost would run $369. The replacement board from Onkyo would be better than the original. Ok so am I better off repairing it or buying a new receiver. I guess I'm asking is it worth saving at that price?
^^^Personally I would say it's not worth it. This thing is 5+ years old and was only like $600 back then iirc... You could probably get something equal or maybe even better for that price, especially with black Friday/cyber Monday around the corner.
Looks like this happened with mine too. I can get it to work by unplugging the hdmi and plugging back in and turning the PS3 off and on a couple times. Huge Bummer as this thing has been going good for quite some time. Luckily I don't really need this avrs hdmi in/out as its only on bedroom duty and I only have one thing to hook in, but still super lame =^/
Yeah that's how I feel, but I don't have much of an idea how long a repaired unit could go on. An extra $300 is worth a little effort.
I agree with you ksmit, onkyo shoudn't fail after only a few years of domestic operation.
Therefor I just abandoned my unit, kicked it as far as it would fly since a couple of days ago the unit died on me (again), despite all my repair efforts earlier, including addition of a continuous air flow to keep things cool. Repairing it just postponed its death.
No more onkyo for me, that's something I'm very sure of.
Bought me a Pioneer VSX-S510K now, way cheaper and works just as well for what is needed here.
-- Dr. Johnny Fever
Last edited by swechsler; 08-11-2014 at 07:57 AM.
The last time it happened it powered itself off and when I unplugged it and plugged it back in the volume was cranked way up on all the speakers. I just bought a pair of Klipsh R-26F speakers and I don't want them blown out by a faulty receiver.
Repair or pull the plug?
Also, I'm about to re-cap my TX-SR706 and i noticed, in one of the youtube videos, it doesn't look like the guy removed the legs and he just soldered on the top of the board, instead of removing the legs and going through the board, which the latter is the correct way, yes ? Seems like it would be a lot easier to leave them in, though and if people have had success with doing it that way, should i do it. Thanks
Problem is that it is hit and miss. I recently noticed that the Onkyo has a IR input on the back.
Will getting a 3.5mm to 3.5mm male cable work better since the Sanus has additional outputs?
-- Dr. Johnny Fever
Thoughts or workarounds?
I think any options would require additional equipment. One way would be to connect the front preamp outputs to a mixer input, and then feed the mixer's output to a separate power amp. A second method would be using an HDMI switcher with an analog output, like this, but then you'd have to send the HDMI directly to your video display, since you couldn't use the receivers HDMI switching while you're listening to the tape monitor, as I mentioned above.
-- Dr. Johnny Fever
Last edited by swechsler; 01-21-2016 at 01:06 PM.
a) I'm already sending 5 channels to my Emotiva XPA-5 using the preouts. Would putting a mixer in between the the 706 and the Emotiva cause and issues? Audyssey?
b) we know the 706 has the ability to have two simultaneous sources playing at the same time (1 audio, 1 video). Let's say I connected my HDMI source to IN 2 (VCR/DVR), then OUT via RCA cables from VCR/DVR ---[RCA]---> Mixer ---[RCA]---> IN VCR/DVR. Any thoughts on why that might or might not work? Is the bigger issue actually getting the audio signal from the HDMI source?
Audio equipment can be connected to the AVHow about using the Zone 2 preouts as inputs to the mixer?
receiver/AV amplifier by using any of the following
audio connection formats: analog, optical,
coaxial, analog multichannel, or HDMI.
When choosing a connection format, bear in
mind that the AV receiver/AV amplifier does not
convert digital input signals for analog line outputs
and vice versa. For example, audio signals
connected to an optical or coaxial digital input
are not output by the analog TAPE OUT.
-- Dr. Johnny Fever
Last edited by swechsler; 01-21-2016 at 01:42 PM.
So, the HDMI source (audio & video) is going into HDMI IN 2 on the back, preouts from Zone 2 L+R to the mixer, then mixer RCA outs to TAPE IN. Select IN 2 for initial source, turn on Zone 2, select TAPE. Would that play both sources out of the same front L & R speakers? Am I missing something in the setup?
Sorry, I just got off a 15+hr flight, so I'm a bit hazy.
I think you're going to need the sort of device I linked to above, that lets you extract analog audio from an HDMI signal.
-- Dr. Johnny Fever
Seems like the cheaper option is number one, but I'm a bit concerned at build quality, and overall "cheapness" of the entire product. Mixed reviews, some love it, some say it's garbage. Option two seems like an obvious better build, but waiting to see if shipping to Canada is viable.
Option 3 is me using an old PS3 I already have, with this guy: http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6884 (already own), send the HDMI video from the PS3 straight to the 706, optical out from PS3-----> D to A Audio Converter----->RCA L+R to 706, and assign the inputs correctly.
Think it will work? Thoughts? Will attempt when I get a chance after work today or tomorrow.
I'm looking for a bit of help/advice. My 607 hasn't had an OSD for years now, but everything else worked as far as I could tell. I tried the resets etc that onkyo runs thru on their tech support without success. Emboldened by my recent repair of a samsung tv, I thought I'd give this an attempt at repairing before it quits on me. I removed the board, decided to only replace the 470 uf caps first and then test to see if it was a success before continuing. I replaced all 470 uf caps with the same cap regardless of whether the original was a smd or not. After replacing the caps, I plugged everything back in and I now receive no signal, even after a reset of the receiver. I fear I damaged the board while attempting repair. I created a spreadsheet of all the parts I planned to replace, and its replacement, which is linked below. I tried to include photos, but they were too large in size, so I linked the photo folder below as well. I doubled checked that the polarity is correct, and as far as I can tell it is. I re-soldered some of the joints, and replaced one cap off the board due to my iron touching its casing.
I'm not really sure what to do next besides ordering another broken board, and trying again. Thanks in advance for any help I receive.
This is the replacement capacitor. Spec wise it seemed alright, but If I am wrong, please let me know.
digikey part # 732-9174-1-ND
CAP 470 UF 20% 25 V
Below is my purchase order from digikey.
|Onkyo , Onkyo Tx Sr706 7 1 Channel Home Theater Receiver Black , Onkyo Tx Sr605 Receiver , Toshiba , Toshiba 52hm84 120 Watt Tv Lamp Replacement|