The "Official" Onkyo TX-SR876 Owners Thread - Page 171 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5101 of 5129 Old 10-06-2014, 05:30 PM
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Angry

According to Onkyo's website (https://repair.onkyousa.com/na/003_2012.php?country=USA), "This Serial/Unit does not need this update." WTF!? I clearly do, if my receiver is not working

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I need to get my Serial # to see if I qualify for the Onkyo's Loss of Audio/Network Connection Customer Care Program....
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post #5102 of 5129 Old 10-06-2014, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PashaF View Post
According to Onkyo's website (https://repair.onkyousa.com/na/003_2012.php?country=USA), "This Serial/Unit does not need this update." WTF!? I clearly do, if my receiver is not working
I feel your pain. I'm in the same boat with my 876. I believe the availability of parts is the reason I just missed the cut-off date.

There's a thread if your interested:
Onkyo acknowledges failed units and extending warrranties until 2018

Last edited by eaayoung; 10-06-2014 at 06:04 PM.
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post #5103 of 5129 Old 10-27-2014, 10:29 AM
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Bittersweet weekend... I handed down my perfectly functioning 876 to my son for his new man-cave theater. His (also perfectly functioning) 806 that was scheduled to go into the theater met an untimely death when it went up in flames (quite literally) due to an errant screw placed into a wall. I know that others have not been so lucky with their 876s, and I won't pretend that Onkyo didn't have some issues with them, but my 876 has over 20,000 hours of use on it (based on the cumulative hours of the three TVs it has functioned hand-in-hand with) and it's never given me the slightest bit of trouble. I kept it cool with a dual fan Comcool set up that kept it running in the low 30°C range rather than the low 60°C range it ran at without the external fans.

I've replaced the 876 with a TX-NR1010... so far so good. Love the network audio features, the simplified HDMI cabling for 3d sources, and the MultEq XT32 and dual sub setup. I'm less impressed with the addition of height channels to my system. The 1010 also does not give me the 876's option to run my fronts in BTL mode even though my SB channels are still sitting unused. The other "downgrade" in the 1010 is the lack of a switched outlet to power the cooling fans. I can only hope for as good a reliability record as the 876 gave to me, and my even older TX-NR801 is still giving to me.

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post #5104 of 5129 Old 11-11-2014, 09:58 PM
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Mine also died years ago I still have it as the amp section was killer, as we all know now to killer. Mine did not qualify for fixing either after entering serial number. I got it Jan 09.

My 809 unit that replaced the 876 also now has issue but after entering serial # it is covered. So only out $1000 instead of $2000...Denon from now on I think.

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post #5105 of 5129 Old 11-25-2014, 12:39 PM
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Unhappy Onkyo SR876 capacitor replacement

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Originally Posted by dea View Post
Thanks for that link, I replaced all of my 876's 100uf caps with 105C rated 100F10V ones and it works flawlessly again. No longer waiting for hours to be able to get image through HDMI, it is instant as it should be.
I watched the video for replacing the capacitors on a 606 and it states that locations and numbers will be different for a 876. How do I know which ones to replace on my 876? I want to try the repair because a new HDMI board is $674 from Onlyo and not worth buying. Please help!
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post #5106 of 5129 Old 11-25-2014, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dalumart View Post
I watched the video for replacing the capacitors on a 606 and it states that locations and numbers will be different for a 876. How do I know which ones to replace on my 876? I want to try the repair because a new HDMI board is $674 from Onlyo and not worth buying. Please help!
I would replace all of them. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
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post #5107 of 5129 Old 11-26-2014, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalumart View Post
I watched the video for replacing the capacitors on a 606 and it states that locations and numbers will be different for a 876. How do I know which ones to replace on my 876? I want to try the repair because a new HDMI board is $674 from Onlyo and not worth buying. Please help!
In this thread, post 5017 has some pics illustrating the needed caps. The last pic shows how to solder a cap across a regulator. This is a second set of caps that should also be installed. You need to do some googling, there are other posts in this thread and others showing these regulators. It can be done, but you need a proper soldering iron for this type of work and solder that has a lower melting point. For all the help of other posters, they never mentioned these 2 facts, which are a big help.
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post #5108 of 5129 Old 12-29-2014, 01:48 PM
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One new problem I've noticed (along with the sporadic "no sound" problem-- that's seems to have been ok the last 3 months), My FM tuner doesn't work anymore! I don't get the HD FM light on and only get a low static noise. One time what worked was pulling the plug out and plugging back in, but that doesn't work anymore.
Anybody have this problem and know what's causing this? I don't think my AM tuner EVER worked even with the antenna on. I just thought I was in a too congested place in Manhattan, but now I'm thinking it could've been faulty out of the box!
BTW, I'm using a powered antenna from Terk and haven't thought of removing it and using the wire dipole antenna till now!
Your input is greatly appreciated.
It's just a matter of time before I abandon this receiver (and Onkyo altogether).

Phil
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post #5109 of 5129 Old 12-30-2014, 04:05 PM
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Hello everyone.
I just wanted to let all you guys know that I just successfully repaired my TXSR876 (2010 model) . For over one year, the wait time for the “HDMI handshake” kept getting longer and longer until last month, when it just would no longer recognize a source.

I followed the Utube video on how to fix the TX SR 606, and used the photo showing the capacitors to replace provided by Scottie2 or JonS ( Ithink). Sorry if I am giving credit to the wrong person.

The fix was not that hard. I am not an electronic techie at all, but was able to do it no problem.The hardest part was getting the HDMI board disconnected from the unit, because I was afraid to break it. The receiver works perfectly just as it did when it was new. I used 100uF 16V 105C caps ( amazon)instead of the original 100uF 4V.

I have a question for those more savvy than me with all this stuff. Is this fix going to last because I used higher voltage caps or is it a good idea add some type of a heat sink to the processor on the HDMI and/or a fan for extra cooling. If “yes” where should the fan be placed and where do I get power to run it. If this is been covered before, I apologize but I could not find it.

Thank you in advance for any assistance and a bigger thank you to all those folk that provided the info that allowed me to repair myr eceiver.

One final comment:
I loved Onkyo, but from this day forward, I am not buying or recommending Onkyo to anyone any longer.

Last edited by dalumart; 12-30-2014 at 04:08 PM.
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post #5110 of 5129 Old 12-30-2014, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalumart;30344242[FONT=Calibri
The receiver works perfectly just as it did when it was new. I used 100uF 16V 105C caps ( amazon)instead of the original 100uF 4V. [/FONT]

I have a question for those more savvy than me with all this stuff. Is this fix going to last because I used higher voltage caps or is it a good idea add some type of a heat sink to the processor on the HDMI and/or a fan for extra cooling. If “yes” where should the fan be placed and where do I get power to run it. If this is been covered before, I apologize but I could not find it.
Congratulations. I've had two external fans on my NR906 almost from the start and the HDMI boards have not failed (sometimes luck comes my way). Just for fun I added a heat sink to every accessible hot chip, although I do not recall which ones. Because the receiver and other boxes reside in a closed cabinet I added twin temperature controlled fans on the back of the cabinet. The air intake is below the slide out shelf for the receiver. Incoming air enters through a series of holes in the bottom of the cabinet and moves over and then up through offset holes in the receiver shelf. This works fairly well as an inertial filter, there is more dust below the shelf than under or in the receiver. The top top mounted fans just rest somewhere on the back half of the receiver. All four fans are connected to the same variable control/power box and the temperature probe rests on top of the receiver.

In this forum and elsewhere there are a good many posts on the question of using caps with higher voltage ratings. The few electron pushers that I know personally disagree a bit, but they say it might help and won't hurt. Keeping the temperature down might be the more important concern.

The fact that an opinion has been widely held is no evidence whatever that it is not utterly absurd.
-Bertrand Russell
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post #5111 of 5129 Old 01-11-2015, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by trekguy View Post
Congratulations. I've had two external fans on my NR906 almost from the start and the HDMI boards have not failed (sometimes luck comes my way). Just for fun I added a heat sink to every accessible hot chip, although I do not recall which ones. Because the receiver and other boxes reside in a closed cabinet I added twin temperature controlled fans on the back of the cabinet. The air intake is below the slide out shelf for the receiver. Incoming air enters through a series of holes in the bottom of the cabinet and moves over and then up through offset holes in the receiver shelf. This works fairly well as an inertial filter, there is more dust below the shelf than under or in the receiver. The top top mounted fans just rest somewhere on the back half of the receiver. All four fans are connected to the same variable control/power box and the temperature probe rests on top of the receiver.

In this forum and elsewhere there are a good many posts on the question of using caps with higher voltage ratings. The few electron pushers that I know personally disagree a bit, but they say it might help and won't hurt. Keeping the temperature down might be the more important concern.
OMG... thank you for confirming the capacitors worked. Back in 2011 my receiver died. I was not even 1 month out of warranty and Onkyo said TOO BAD... it was going to be $800 plus shipping...basically $1000. So I got a Pioneer SC-37 and all was good until about 1.5 years later or less and BLUE LIGHT OF DEATH.....nooo ICE amp went out and Pioneer said stuff it. The repair was going to be almost 700 minimum. So instead of going out and getting another HIGH end receiver (my luck sucked with them) I decided to get a Pioneer SC1222K, which has lasted me.

I was researching the new ATMOS and decided to look back at this thread and saw confirmations of the capacitors working... so I took a chance last week and ordered them. Friday I soldered the capacitors and hooked it up last night... OMG so far so good and the SOUND IS AMAZING.

I always had a sense that the sound was never the same, with the pioneer sc37 it sounded good, still felt immersed (5.1 svs system), but when I got the sc1222k I noticed another drop (as expected from the huge cost difference).

Well now the Onkyo is hooked up and so far so good. Both HDMI (main/sub) works instantly ...SO FAR

My wife has been yelling because the house/pictures/plates/etc is shaking again. The good news is... I CAN'T HEAR HER... I'm enjoying the sound again.
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post #5112 of 5129 Old 01-11-2015, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by VideoN00b View Post
My wife has been yelling because the house/pictures/plates/etc is shaking again. The good news is... I CAN'T HEAR HER... I'm enjoying the sound again.
Seriously though, that's great news. I love hearing about people finding inexpensive DIY solutions to problems. Great work!
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post #5113 of 5129 Old 02-01-2015, 02:35 AM
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I need help guys. I just go a new mitsubishi tv and while attempting hook up I cant get sound or the onscreen menu to appear. I used all hdmi cables and without the onscreen menus Im kind of lost. Anyone know what connection is required to get the menu onscreen?

Thanks in advance.
ps. Be gentle Im not a connection genius.
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post #5114 of 5129 Old 02-01-2015, 12:00 PM
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Unhappy

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Originally Posted by Franky Vegas View Post
I need help guys. I just go a new mitsubishi tv and while attempting hook up I cant get sound or the onscreen menu to appear. I used all hdmi cables and without the onscreen menus Im kind of lost. Anyone know what connection is required to get the menu onscreen?

Thanks in advance.
ps. Be gentle Im not a connection genius.
I just noticed I never mentioned my onkyo receiver. Ive had it for several years and it works fine, but I didnt set it up the first time. Cant figure out why I have picture but no sound. Cant figure out why I cant pull up the Onkyo onscreen menu.

Its superbowl sunday and Im listening to my tv through my tv speakers.
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post #5115 of 5129 Old 02-01-2015, 01:59 PM
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The manual that came with your receiver is your friend. Go to the problem solving section. Make sure you're on the same input for the TV that the receiver is wired through. Wish I could provide more help, but it's Superbowl Sunday.
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post #5116 of 5129 Old 02-24-2015, 08:09 PM
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NO JOY!! Hey all just replaced all 13 caps that "Scottie2" suggested in my pre-2010 TX-SR876 with the nichicon variety. Amp still behaves the same as though I haven't made the repairs yet. I've read somewhere that the 876 an the 906 require at least 16 to 19 caps need replacing, does anyone no which additional caps need replacing? I've replaced all 13 100uf 4V caps. any help would be greatly appreciated, also thank you Scottie2 an JonS and all for you help
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post #5117 of 5129 Old 02-24-2015, 09:05 PM
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You need to find a different thread. It's the Onkyo 576 repair thread in this forum. I think it's got pics of additional caps that need to be installed on the bigger Onkyos. I repaired a 906 myself using this other cap repair. There are 6 caps that need to be soldered across regulators(?) on the board, which stabilizes them as well.

Edit: I think I found a pic in that thread that will help you. Page 18, post 692. The thread is this: How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?)
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post #5118 of 5129 Old 02-28-2015, 10:32 PM
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Just replaced the 13 caps with 100uF, 16V, 105C, 2000hr Panasonic caps from Avnet Express. 5 caps on top side of HDMI board were no problem, but bottom side was a bear. Discovered that one of the old caps actually exploded and scorched the PCB. No wonder none of the HDMI inputs were working any more! When removing that defective cap and the one next to it, one of the pads came off the PCB on each of the caps. Had to find a circuit trace to solder the side of the cap with the missing pad. Took a couple of white wire fixes to repair. Doesn't look like a work of art, but it did the trick.

Cabled the TX-SR876 back up and lo and behold all HDMI outputs and HDMI inputs work once again! However, I have another problem that i haven't seen discussed in this thread. If anyone can share some guidance, I'd greatly appreciate your insights. The switched outlet on the back of the receiver no longer switches. The outlet is on all the time. Consequently, I noticed the receiver stays warm all the time (I have a Cooler Guys quad fan unit on top of the receiver to keep things cool). The digital display on the thermal readout previously read room temp in low 70s when switched outlet worked, now it reads in the 90s with the cooling fans unplugged, but drops to low 80s with the fans on (have fan unit set to activate at 85F).

Is there some short or defective part that's a known cause of this problem that I can fix DIY similar to the HDMI caps? Would be nice to get the switched outlet to switch again and keep the receiver running cooler with the power off.

Any ideas?
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post #5119 of 5129 Old 02-28-2015, 10:45 PM
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That is the very first time I've heard this. ...When the receiver is turn off it should be off and cool down and the switched outlet off also.

Very strange; I have no idea for any solution other than disconnect the AC cord, or plug the receiver into a power bar that you can remotely turn on and off.

* Something is not right with the power switch.

♦ Try a soft reset, and if it doesn't work do a hard reset.

1. Soft reset: Disconnect the AC power cord from the wall, wait two minutes, then reconnect.
2. Hard reset: Page 142, top left corner. But read the note.

<<<•>>> In your manual, @ page 49: Connecting the Power Cords of Other Components (North American model only)
=> Read that section.

P.S. Read also page 51, just in case it applies to you (where you live).

Last edited by NorthSky; 02-28-2015 at 11:07 PM. Reason: Bullet & postcript
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post #5120 of 5129 Old 03-02-2015, 05:38 AM
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That is the very first time I've heard this. ...When the receiver is turn off it should be off and cool down and the switched outlet off also.

Very strange; I have no idea for any solution other than disconnect the AC cord, or plug the receiver into a power bar that you can remotely turn on and off.

* Something is not right with the power switch.

♦ Try a soft reset, and if it doesn't work do a hard reset.

1. Soft reset: Disconnect the AC power cord from the wall, wait two minutes, then reconnect.
2. Hard reset: Page 142, top left corner. But read the note.

<<<•>>> In your manual, @ page 49: Connecting the Power Cords of Other Components (North American model only)
=> Read that section.

P.S. Read also page 51, just in case it applies to you (where you live).
I tried leaving the unit unplugged for several hours with no effect, then tried the hard reset also with no effect. Until someone can shed some light as to what might be the cause, I'll simply unplug the power cord so the unit doesn't continually generate heat and perpetually run the cooling fans. It's a PITA, but better that than have the fan constantly running. Thanks for the suggestions though.
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post #5121 of 5129 Old 03-02-2015, 11:50 AM
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Yeah, I don't know what else to suggest.

* Call Onkyo, tell them you just replaced 13 caps, and now your 876 is behaving erratically in regard to the rear's switched outlet (on all the time, doesn't switch anymore), and the receiver stays warm all the time now. Best to talk to one of their technicians.

=> My best guess: When you replaced all those 13 caps, somehow you did something to your 876 (a disconnection or some' like that) on the circuit board (PCB), with soldering one of the circuit traces or one of the wires, that have caused something awkward to the switched outlet.
If I was an electronic technician (I'm not, I'm an artist), I would ask you to show me the type of "custom work" you did here, say from some pics,
and then see if you touched or modified something that you shouldn't have.

But, life is fun, we all love to explore, fix things, and live happy with what we accomplished for the better, and also for the worst.

♦ You can probably find another 876 (second-hand) in excellent working order (classified adds from the right places) for only two hundred bucks.
If this is not an option, just buy a very inexpensive AC power cord extension with integrated switch (I have few of those myself @ home; five bucks each @ the hardware store).
Just situate the switch @ the best position in your room where you have easy access when watching movies and listening to music.
Do you know what I mean, or should I give you a link of such an extension "switched" AC power cord?
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post #5122 of 5129 Old 03-02-2015, 09:52 PM
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Yeah, I don't know what else to suggest.

* Call Onkyo, tell them you just replaced 13 caps, and now your 876 is behaving erratically in regard to the rear's switched outlet (on all the time, doesn't switch anymore), and the receiver stays warm all the time now. Best to talk to one of their technicians.

=> My best guess: When you replaced all those 13 caps, somehow you did something to your 876 (a disconnection or some' like that) on the circuit board (PCB), with soldering one of the circuit traces or one of the wires, that have caused something awkward to the switched outlet.
If I was an electronic technician (I'm not, I'm an artist), I would ask you to show me the type of "custom work" you did here, say from some pics,
and then see if you touched or modified something that you shouldn't have.

But, life is fun, we all love to explore, fix things, and live happy with what we accomplished for the better, and also for the worst.

♦ You can probably find another 876 (second-hand) in excellent working order (classified adds from the right places) for only two hundred bucks.
If this is not an option, just buy a very inexpensive AC power cord extension with integrated switch (I have few of those myself @ home; five bucks each @ the hardware store).
Just situate the switch @ the best position in your room where you have easy access when watching movies and listening to music.
Do you know what I mean, or should I give you a link of such an extension "switched" AC power cord?
If you have a link you can share, that would be great. I have a power strip that my various pieces of a/v gear plug into, but that's not what you're referring to. I haven't seen a switch built into the actual power cord. it would be preferable for the switch to be closer to the female plug that mates to the Onkyo so it's accessible. For now, I unplug the cord from the back of the Onkyo and sort of wedge it between the bottom of the receiver and the top of the cabinet upon which it sits. Holds it there secure enough so it doesn't fall to the floor. But would be better to have a switch so my wife and girls can more easily switch the receiver on and off. They're not big fans of plugging and unplugging.

The problem manifested itself prior to my HDMI board repair, so I doubt the problem is linked to the fixes we made. Just really weird that the switched outlet is powered all the time, even when the unit is on standby. Seems like a short somewhere. But if it means unplugging the power cord or flicking a switch every time I use the receiver, so be it. Getting that damn HDMI board fixed was the biggest hurdle. I would have hated to scrap a two grand receiver because of the HDMI problem. I could have limped along and just used the receiver for audio and no video switching, but I would have been deprived of 7.1 blu-rays that only send their signals through the HDMI cables and not through digital audio coax. Listening to a movie soundtrack like Frozen sounds much better in DTS HD Master Audio 7.1 than dts neo6 or whatever my Sony blu-ray player outputted instead of 7.1.
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post #5123 of 5129 Old 03-03-2015, 09:30 PM
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Even better for you and your family (remote controlled On/Off AC power switch):

http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Ou.../dp/B008JRGN0W
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post #5124 of 5129 Old Today, 01:13 PM
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Onkyo Sucks!

Ok, this is going to be a lengthy post, but I wanted to detail and outline my extremely bizarre and ridiculous experience with Onkyo. Based on this experience, I will refuse to buy any Onkyo products and I will make sure that my opinion matters by sharing it with everyone.

My TX-SR876 started refusing to produce any sound to any of the speakers. Upon taking it to a repair shop, I've learned that the cause is the defective HDMI board. While reviewing various boards and forums, I learned that it is a known issue with various Onkyo Models. Onkyo has acknowledged the issue by starting the "Loss of Audio/Network Connection Customer Care Program"

(https://repair.onkyousa.com/na/003_2012.php?country=USA). Unfortunately, my receiver is not eligible, according to the website.
When I called Onkyo to address the issue, I talked to Enri Jasmin, who informed me that this unit is out of warranty, does not qualify for the aforementioned program and my only option is to trade it in for a discounted refurbished Onkyo receiver. Obviously, I don't really want to invest into another Onkyo product when I believe that the company should repair my current one.

When I contacted (via email) Jack Cooper, their National Parts & Service Manager, he informed me that my unit "predates the receivers that are being serviced for a defective IC chip related issue". When I replied that I do not agree and would like to escalate the issue, his response was "Please reference my response, this is the companies position, there will be no escalation." My follow up calls to Onkyo yielded no results at all; first, Boris at their service department has suggested that it is a mere coincidence that my receiver has the same issue as the other units and they "get calls from everyone for anything under the sun!" According to him, he talked to Jack Cooper and there is nothing that they could do. When I asked to talk to Mr. Cooper, I was told that he is at a meeting already - what a timely coincidence (again).
Another call to their corporate department produced the same - a very nice lady on the phone said that Onkyo values their customers and their brand that they've been building for the last xx years. Furthermore, she said that Jack Cooper does not report to anyone - how do I find a job like that?

So, at this point, I see that I'm SOL with Onkyo - so I decided to inquire about the HDMI Board (part). Unfortunately, Onkyo does not sell parts to consumers - only to authorized repair shops. Furthermore, they again pushed their Trade-In Program. Their closest authorized repair shop, Adam's Electronics, is over 400 miles from me - in Huntington Beach, CA! The shop would not order the part for me - it is not their practice, unfortunately.

As I hit the wall, I decided to use Onkyo’s trade-in program. Their agreement sent on a simple MS Word document stated “Trade-in Cost: $270”, which I understood would be the amount I receive for my broken receiver. I thought that the cost would be $450 (listed on their trade-in website) - $270 = $180, which I was willing to accept. Well, I was wrong – $270 is the amount I had to pay for a recertified TX-NR626 AFTER returning my unit (and paying $90 for shipping).

Onkyo has not stopped on screwing me there – the first TX-NR626 that I received from them was DOA! I had to return it and wait for another week or so to get another one.

So, in summary:

  • I had a broken receiver that Onkyo refused to repair for free, despite acknowledging the same issue with other receivers.
  • I could not order a replacement part because Onkyo does not sell parts to consumers and neither do their repair shops.
  • Onkyo is pushing their Trade-In program aggressively. In other words, they are forcing consumers to invest more money into their products.
  • 5-year life for a $1,200 AV receiver? In my world, it is simply repulsive.
  • 270+90=$360 for a recertified TX-NR626…
  • _____Amazon sells them NEW for $269.99
  • _____Basically, I gave my old TX-SR876 to them for free and overpaid over $100




Despite liking the features that Onkyo receivers offer, I will not buy their products again because they treat their customers unfairly and refuse to accept responsibility.
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post #5125 of 5129 Old Today, 02:24 PM
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You made a very bad deal with Onkyo. It would have been better to simply ignore them and never do business with them anymore.

But thanks for sharing; it's important for all of us to know.
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post #5126 of 5129 Old Today, 05:13 PM
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I can pick up and SR 706 for 75 bucks. Aside from the usual HDMI bored problems everything else works perfectly fine is this a good deal or not? thanks
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post #5127 of 5129 Old Today, 05:32 PM
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I can pick up and SR 706 for 75 bucks. Aside from the usual HDMI bored problems everything else works perfectly fine is this a good deal or not? thanks
Ever heard of Russian roulette?

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #5128 of 5129 Old Today, 06:01 PM
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Ever heard of Russian roulette?
Lol ok
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post #5129 of 5129 Old Today, 06:05 PM
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Lol okay thanks
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