The "Official" Onkyo TX-SR876 Owners Thread - Page 171 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5101 of 5117 Old 10-06-2014, 05:30 PM
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Angry

According to Onkyo's website (https://repair.onkyousa.com/na/003_2012.php?country=USA), "This Serial/Unit does not need this update." WTF!? I clearly do, if my receiver is not working

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I need to get my Serial # to see if I qualify for the Onkyo's Loss of Audio/Network Connection Customer Care Program....
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post #5102 of 5117 Old 10-06-2014, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PashaF View Post
According to Onkyo's website (https://repair.onkyousa.com/na/003_2012.php?country=USA), "This Serial/Unit does not need this update." WTF!? I clearly do, if my receiver is not working
I feel your pain. I'm in the same boat with my 876. I believe the availability of parts is the reason I just missed the cut-off date.

There's a thread if your interested:
Onkyo acknowledges failed units and extending warrranties until 2018

Last edited by eaayoung; 10-06-2014 at 06:04 PM.
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post #5103 of 5117 Old 10-27-2014, 10:29 AM
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Bittersweet weekend... I handed down my perfectly functioning 876 to my son for his new man-cave theater. His (also perfectly functioning) 806 that was scheduled to go into the theater met an untimely death when it went up in flames (quite literally) due to an errant screw placed into a wall. I know that others have not been so lucky with their 876s, and I won't pretend that Onkyo didn't have some issues with them, but my 876 has over 20,000 hours of use on it (based on the cumulative hours of the three TVs it has functioned hand-in-hand with) and it's never given me the slightest bit of trouble. I kept it cool with a dual fan Comcool set up that kept it running in the low 30°C range rather than the low 60°C range it ran at without the external fans.

I've replaced the 876 with a TX-NR1010... so far so good. Love the network audio features, the simplified HDMI cabling for 3d sources, and the MultEq XT32 and dual sub setup. I'm less impressed with the addition of height channels to my system. The 1010 also does not give me the 876's option to run my fronts in BTL mode even though my SB channels are still sitting unused. The other "downgrade" in the 1010 is the lack of a switched outlet to power the cooling fans. I can only hope for as good a reliability record as the 876 gave to me, and my even older TX-NR801 is still giving to me.

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post #5104 of 5117 Old 11-11-2014, 09:58 PM
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Mine also died years ago I still have it as the amp section was killer, as we all know now to killer. Mine did not qualify for fixing either after entering serial number. I got it Jan 09.

My 809 unit that replaced the 876 also now has issue but after entering serial # it is covered. So only out $1000 instead of $2000...Denon from now on I think.

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post #5105 of 5117 Old 11-25-2014, 12:39 PM
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Unhappy Onkyo SR876 capacitor replacement

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Originally Posted by dea View Post
Thanks for that link, I replaced all of my 876's 100uf caps with 105C rated 100F10V ones and it works flawlessly again. No longer waiting for hours to be able to get image through HDMI, it is instant as it should be.
I watched the video for replacing the capacitors on a 606 and it states that locations and numbers will be different for a 876. How do I know which ones to replace on my 876? I want to try the repair because a new HDMI board is $674 from Onlyo and not worth buying. Please help!
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post #5106 of 5117 Old 11-25-2014, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dalumart View Post
I watched the video for replacing the capacitors on a 606 and it states that locations and numbers will be different for a 876. How do I know which ones to replace on my 876? I want to try the repair because a new HDMI board is $674 from Onlyo and not worth buying. Please help!
I would replace all of them. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
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post #5107 of 5117 Old 11-26-2014, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalumart View Post
I watched the video for replacing the capacitors on a 606 and it states that locations and numbers will be different for a 876. How do I know which ones to replace on my 876? I want to try the repair because a new HDMI board is $674 from Onlyo and not worth buying. Please help!
In this thread, post 5017 has some pics illustrating the needed caps. The last pic shows how to solder a cap across a regulator. This is a second set of caps that should also be installed. You need to do some googling, there are other posts in this thread and others showing these regulators. It can be done, but you need a proper soldering iron for this type of work and solder that has a lower melting point. For all the help of other posters, they never mentioned these 2 facts, which are a big help.
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post #5108 of 5117 Old 12-29-2014, 01:48 PM
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One new problem I've noticed (along with the sporadic "no sound" problem-- that's seems to have been ok the last 3 months), My FM tuner doesn't work anymore! I don't get the HD FM light on and only get a low static noise. One time what worked was pulling the plug out and plugging back in, but that doesn't work anymore.
Anybody have this problem and know what's causing this? I don't think my AM tuner EVER worked even with the antenna on. I just thought I was in a too congested place in Manhattan, but now I'm thinking it could've been faulty out of the box!
BTW, I'm using a powered antenna from Terk and haven't thought of removing it and using the wire dipole antenna till now!
Your input is greatly appreciated.
It's just a matter of time before I abandon this receiver (and Onkyo altogether).

Phil
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post #5109 of 5117 Old 12-30-2014, 04:05 PM
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Hello everyone.
I just wanted to let all you guys know that I just successfully repaired my TXSR876 (2010 model) . For over one year, the wait time for the “HDMI handshake” kept getting longer and longer until last month, when it just would no longer recognize a source.

I followed the Utube video on how to fix the TX SR 606, and used the photo showing the capacitors to replace provided by Scottie2 or JonS ( Ithink). Sorry if I am giving credit to the wrong person.

The fix was not that hard. I am not an electronic techie at all, but was able to do it no problem.The hardest part was getting the HDMI board disconnected from the unit, because I was afraid to break it. The receiver works perfectly just as it did when it was new. I used 100uF 16V 105C caps ( amazon)instead of the original 100uF 4V.

I have a question for those more savvy than me with all this stuff. Is this fix going to last because I used higher voltage caps or is it a good idea add some type of a heat sink to the processor on the HDMI and/or a fan for extra cooling. If “yes” where should the fan be placed and where do I get power to run it. If this is been covered before, I apologize but I could not find it.

Thank you in advance for any assistance and a bigger thank you to all those folk that provided the info that allowed me to repair myr eceiver.

One final comment:
I loved Onkyo, but from this day forward, I am not buying or recommending Onkyo to anyone any longer.

Last edited by dalumart; 12-30-2014 at 04:08 PM.
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post #5110 of 5117 Old 12-30-2014, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalumart;30344242[FONT=Calibri
The receiver works perfectly just as it did when it was new. I used 100uF 16V 105C caps ( amazon)instead of the original 100uF 4V. [/FONT]

I have a question for those more savvy than me with all this stuff. Is this fix going to last because I used higher voltage caps or is it a good idea add some type of a heat sink to the processor on the HDMI and/or a fan for extra cooling. If “yes” where should the fan be placed and where do I get power to run it. If this is been covered before, I apologize but I could not find it.
Congratulations. I've had two external fans on my NR906 almost from the start and the HDMI boards have not failed (sometimes luck comes my way). Just for fun I added a heat sink to every accessible hot chip, although I do not recall which ones. Because the receiver and other boxes reside in a closed cabinet I added twin temperature controlled fans on the back of the cabinet. The air intake is below the slide out shelf for the receiver. Incoming air enters through a series of holes in the bottom of the cabinet and moves over and then up through offset holes in the receiver shelf. This works fairly well as an inertial filter, there is more dust below the shelf than under or in the receiver. The top top mounted fans just rest somewhere on the back half of the receiver. All four fans are connected to the same variable control/power box and the temperature probe rests on top of the receiver.

In this forum and elsewhere there are a good many posts on the question of using caps with higher voltage ratings. The few electron pushers that I know personally disagree a bit, but they say it might help and won't hurt. Keeping the temperature down might be the more important concern.

The fact that an opinion has been widely held is no evidence whatever that it is not utterly absurd.
-Bertrand Russell
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post #5111 of 5117 Old 01-11-2015, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by trekguy View Post
Congratulations. I've had two external fans on my NR906 almost from the start and the HDMI boards have not failed (sometimes luck comes my way). Just for fun I added a heat sink to every accessible hot chip, although I do not recall which ones. Because the receiver and other boxes reside in a closed cabinet I added twin temperature controlled fans on the back of the cabinet. The air intake is below the slide out shelf for the receiver. Incoming air enters through a series of holes in the bottom of the cabinet and moves over and then up through offset holes in the receiver shelf. This works fairly well as an inertial filter, there is more dust below the shelf than under or in the receiver. The top top mounted fans just rest somewhere on the back half of the receiver. All four fans are connected to the same variable control/power box and the temperature probe rests on top of the receiver.

In this forum and elsewhere there are a good many posts on the question of using caps with higher voltage ratings. The few electron pushers that I know personally disagree a bit, but they say it might help and won't hurt. Keeping the temperature down might be the more important concern.
OMG... thank you for confirming the capacitors worked. Back in 2011 my receiver died. I was not even 1 month out of warranty and Onkyo said TOO BAD... it was going to be $800 plus shipping...basically $1000. So I got a Pioneer SC-37 and all was good until about 1.5 years later or less and BLUE LIGHT OF DEATH.....nooo ICE amp went out and Pioneer said stuff it. The repair was going to be almost 700 minimum. So instead of going out and getting another HIGH end receiver (my luck sucked with them) I decided to get a Pioneer SC1222K, which has lasted me.

I was researching the new ATMOS and decided to look back at this thread and saw confirmations of the capacitors working... so I took a chance last week and ordered them. Friday I soldered the capacitors and hooked it up last night... OMG so far so good and the SOUND IS AMAZING.

I always had a sense that the sound was never the same, with the pioneer sc37 it sounded good, still felt immersed (5.1 svs system), but when I got the sc1222k I noticed another drop (as expected from the huge cost difference).

Well now the Onkyo is hooked up and so far so good. Both HDMI (main/sub) works instantly ...SO FAR

My wife has been yelling because the house/pictures/plates/etc is shaking again. The good news is... I CAN'T HEAR HER... I'm enjoying the sound again.
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post #5112 of 5117 Old 01-11-2015, 10:10 AM
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My wife has been yelling because the house/pictures/plates/etc is shaking again. The good news is... I CAN'T HEAR HER... I'm enjoying the sound again.
Seriously though, that's great news. I love hearing about people finding inexpensive DIY solutions to problems. Great work!
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post #5113 of 5117 Old 02-01-2015, 02:35 AM
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I need help guys. I just go a new mitsubishi tv and while attempting hook up I cant get sound or the onscreen menu to appear. I used all hdmi cables and without the onscreen menus Im kind of lost. Anyone know what connection is required to get the menu onscreen?

Thanks in advance.
ps. Be gentle Im not a connection genius.
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post #5114 of 5117 Old 02-01-2015, 12:00 PM
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Unhappy

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Originally Posted by Franky Vegas View Post
I need help guys. I just go a new mitsubishi tv and while attempting hook up I cant get sound or the onscreen menu to appear. I used all hdmi cables and without the onscreen menus Im kind of lost. Anyone know what connection is required to get the menu onscreen?

Thanks in advance.
ps. Be gentle Im not a connection genius.
I just noticed I never mentioned my onkyo receiver. Ive had it for several years and it works fine, but I didnt set it up the first time. Cant figure out why I have picture but no sound. Cant figure out why I cant pull up the Onkyo onscreen menu.

Its superbowl sunday and Im listening to my tv through my tv speakers.
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post #5115 of 5117 Old 02-01-2015, 01:59 PM
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The manual that came with your receiver is your friend. Go to the problem solving section. Make sure you're on the same input for the TV that the receiver is wired through. Wish I could provide more help, but it's Superbowl Sunday.
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post #5116 of 5117 Old Today, 08:09 PM
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NO JOY!! Hey all just replaced all 13 caps that "Scottie2" suggested in my pre-2010 TX-SR876 with the nichicon variety. Amp still behaves the same as though I haven't made the repairs yet. I've read somewhere that the 876 an the 906 require at least 16 to 19 caps need replacing, does anyone no which additional caps need replacing? I've replaced all 13 100uf 4V caps. any help would be greatly appreciated, also thank you Scottie2 an JonS and all for you help
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post #5117 of 5117 Unread Today, 09:05 PM
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You need to find a different thread. It's the Onkyo 576 repair thread in this forum. I think it's got pics of additional caps that need to be installed on the bigger Onkyos. I repaired a 906 myself using this other cap repair. There are 6 caps that need to be soldered across rectifiers on the board, which stabilizes them as well.
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