The "Official" Onkyo TX-SR876 Owners Thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 5086 Old 09-16-2008, 11:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, time for this one about the Onkyo TX-SR876 receiver!
Allthough much about the TX-SR876 is similar to the TX-NR906 which is
covered in http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1059348,
there might be need for a dedicated thread about the 867 without any questions/issues about:
1) NET/USB Mode:
• Ethernet port: Network Capability for Streaming Audio Files and Internet Radio (vTuner Portal)
• USB Port for a Mass USB Strage Device (Audio Only)
2) B Speakers
which are the only functional differences between the 876 and the 906.
Looking at the onkyo site: 906 / 876
Power (8ohms 20-20kHz 0.05%): 145W / 140W
High Instantaneous Current Capability: 70A / 65A
BTL Capability For Front: (230W) / (210W)
Power Consumption: 9.8 A / 9.5 A
Power Transformer: Massive Toroidal Tansformer / H.C.P.S. (High Current Power Supply) Massive High Power Transformer

Functional differences/changes from TX-SR875:
- THX Ultra2 Plus Certified
- THX Loudness Plus
- THX Ultra2 Music / Game
- Audyssey Dynamic EQ for Loudness Correction
- Audyssey Dynamic Volume to Maintain Optimal Listening Level and Dynamic Range
- HD Radio reception (North American models only)
- an extra HDMI out: 2 HDMI Outputs [Main/Sub])
- ISF (Imaging Science Foundation) Video Calibration Function per video source input (see more further down)
including a) a "Blue Only Mode" for color adjustments and b) an explicit choice of SD->HD colorspace conversion.
- Music Optimizer to Support Compressed Digital Music Files
- Newly Designed GUI for System Set-up
- New calibration microphone for Audyssey manufactured by Audyssey and not Onkyo like the previous.

To get you started:
First, read the Audyssey setup guide:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post14456895
Also, see the pic at the bottom for bass management basics which shows
how crossovers, LPF, etc hangs together.

Others may have other recommendations but here are some of mine:
- 1. Input/Output Assign -> 1.Monitor Out
Monitor Out: HDMI Main
Resolution: Auto or native resolution of your display
- 2-2 Speaker Config, make sure your speakers are not set to "Full Band" after Audyssey setup. If they are, see further down on What to do if Onkyo's Automatic Speaker Setup (Audyssey MultEQ XT) sets your speakers to Full Band and set the LPF of LFE to 120hz.
Set Double Bass to Off to avoid that the low frequency content is sent to BOTH the Full Range speakers and the subwoofer. If they happen to overlap in frequency response then you get double the bass--not good!!
- 2-3 Speaker Distances, make sure distances are not that far off from reality. Remember it is the actual delay that is configured expressed in distances, not the physical distance to the speaker as measured with tape measure.
- 2-4, Level Calibration, make sure none of the trim levels are at -12 or +12 dB (–15 to +12 dB for the Sub). If they are, check the Audyssey setup guide again. If you want to verify them with a SPL Meter, set it to C-slow and to measure 75dB with the internal test tones from the receiver at the exact same place where you placed the microphone for the first reading.


- 2-5 Equalizer Settings,
  • for listening to Music set Equalizer to Dynamic EQ
  • for watching movies/TV, set Equalizer to Dynamic EQ . For low volumes, Dynamic Volume might be a better choice.
- 2-6, THX Audio Setup
set Loudness Plus to Off and Preserve THX Settings to No. (see further down about THX Loudness Plus)
- 3-7 Audio Adjust->LFE Level, If you find that LFE channel sounds (effects) are way to loud and bassy, it might be that the LFE channel is boosted +10dB twice. It should be done once, in the bass management. So if it is boosted in the mix or by the player, you need to adjust it down with -10dB in the receiver.
- 4-1. Source Setup->IntelliVolume, for MUSIC only sources, set it -10db. (see "Boomy Bass with Dynamic EQ and music")


- 5 Listening Mode Preset, select your favourite listening mode for each input depending on type of input format, such as these for CBL/SAT:
  • Analog/PCM PL IIx Movie (any analog or PCM signal)
  • Dolby Digital Ultra2 Cinema (any Dolby signal except 2.0)
  • DTS Ultra2 Cinema (DTS probably not likely for CBL/SAT?)
  • D.F. 2ch Neural THX 7.1 (for 2.0 digital sources)
  • D.F. Mono Mono Movie (for 1.0 digital sources)
- 6-2, OSD Setup, set Immediate Display to Off. Affects image quality, downconversion of 12-bit to 10-bit and may cause problems with 1080p24 getting through if set to On.
- 7. Hardware Setup -> 5. HDMI
Audio TV Out: Off
Lip Sync: Disable
x.v.Color: Disable
Control: Disable

Surround Speaker not detected?
Make sure your Surround Left/Right speaker cables are connected to the right terminals.
It is easy to mixup the Surround Left/Right with the Surround Back Left/Right terminals.
If you have only 2 surround speakers, you need to use Surround Left/Right.
If you have only 3 surround speakers, you need to use Surround Left/Right and the Surround Back Left terminal
and please note that it must be the LEFT Surround Back speaker terminal.

Start of Audyssey related stuff:
------------------------------
What is the importance of the new calibration microphone for 876/906 vs the old puck mic for the 805/875?
by Chris from Audyssey: Grazing incidence is the only accurate way to measure room effects because of how direct
and reverberant sound are combined.
For this to work as desired, the mic capsule must be as small as possible and not have any surface next to it that
could produce interference at high frequencies.
That's why the puck shape has problems, even if you point it to the ceiling.
... it is a big issue. The puck mics had the wrong shape and there is nothing that can be done to make them better. We finally convinced manufacturers to stop using them...The biggest problem was that the precision of the 1/4" mic capsule was compromised by adding a 2" plastic puck around it thus greatly affecting the high frequency performance and also the true omnidirectional nature of the mic.
[absorption]
Absoprtion on the housing with a hole in the middle doesn't help. The biggest problem is that the sound arriving from the rear is attenuated relative to that arriving from the front and the mic is not a true omni because of that.
Front = top and Rear = bottom.
In the Audyssey designed mic we raised the capsule significantly on a longer thin neck to get it further away from the base.

2007: One problem with the Onkyo mic is that it is too short and stubby and so the base interferes with the capsule
that is not far enough from it. We are trying to have them switch to the Audyssey mic that has a longer stem for that purpose.
Unfortunately it also has a different calibration response so it can't be used with the current Onkyo that has a different
mic cal curve in it.

Type 1) The 2007 models TX-SR505,605,705,805,875 and NR905 uses the same Onkyo mic, formed as a small hockey puck.
"Onkyo" mic: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=126510&d=1228943015
And I think earlier Onkyos also use this type 1.
Type 2) The 2008 models TX-SR605 and 606 presumably uses an early Audyssey mic with different capsule from the one in today's mics.
Type 3) The 2008 models TX-SR706, 806, 876 and NR906 seems to use the same "tower" Audyssey microphone as well as the newer 2009 TX-SR507,607 and 707.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=126525&d=1228946984
A mic from a receiver can be used with another receiver with the same type.

Recommendations for setting the crossover, words by Chris from Audyssey, edited together by me.
What to do if Onkyo's Automatic Speaker Setup (Audyssey MultEQ XT) sets your speakers to Full Band.


The decision to designate a speaker to Full Band is up to the manufacturer. Audyssey recommends that if you have a subwoofer all speakers should be set to "Small". In Onkyo products this is done by setting a crossover frequency for each speaker
  • If you have a subwoofer: Set the crossover for any speaker found as Full Band to 80Hz (or higher) and let the sub handle as much of the lower octaves as possible because (i) the resolution of the Audyssey filter for the sub is 8x higher than that of the satellite speakers and can thus solve more low frequency problems and (ii) you don't tax the receiver amp with the low frequencies and thus get more headroom which means improved performance of your amp for the satellite speakers.
  • If you don't have a subwoofer: The front speakers will always be set to Full Band. The bass management system redirects the bass from the other speakers to the front L and R. If any of the other speakers were found to be: a) "Small" (i.e. have a crossover frequency showing) then leave them there or b) "Full Band" then set them to 80Hz.
If you feel that you want to change the crossover frequency that was found to a higher value, that is OK. Turning it down to a frequency below what was found is not a good idea because the MultEQ filter will not be operating in that range.
See picture multeq_crossover.jpg at the end for crossover explaination.


The Audyssey features build on each other and these are the available equalizer settings:
  • Equalizer Off
  • Equalizer Manual
  • Audyssey MultEQ XT
  • Audyssey MultEQ XT + Dynamic EQ
  • Audyssey MultEQ XT + Dynamic EQ + Dynamic Volume (Light)
  • Audyssey MultEQ XT + Dynamic EQ + Dynamic Volume (Heavy)
Audyssey MultEQ
The biggest part of what MultEQ is calibrating is the frequency response of the speaker. It tries to undo the problems that are added by the room. They come from standing waves and reflections from the walls, floor, etc.
The Audyssey Reference target curve is flat in the bass with rolloff in the high frequencies that starts at 4kHz
and goes down gently at 10 kHz and then slightly steeper after that to 20 kHz
It also calculates the proper delays for the speakers, displayed as distances, so that sound from all speakers arrives at the same time at the first measurement position.
It is also the reason that many complain that the sub is found to be at the "wrong" distance.
What they forget is that the signal from the sub is delayed by the electrical filters in the sub (the low pass filters that can't be turned off), as well as the physical distance to the listener. The correction must include both.
If you want to use an SPL meter to measure the speaker levels, then you must make sure that MultEQ is ON and Dynamic EQ is OFF.
Or you can leave them both on and turn the volume to 0 because Dynamic EQ is inactive at that volume.

Audyssey Dynamic EQ
Addresses human hearing changes as the volume is lowered.
The first thing that diminishes at lower volumes is our perception of bass,
so Dynamic EQ boosts it according to a set of curves that match human perception.
The second thing that changes is our perception of surround impression,
so Dynamic EQ boosts the surround level as you lower the volume.
The idea with Dynamic EQ is to turn the volume down to where you like it and it will adjust the response
and surround envelopment for you. It's made for listening at softer, not loud, levels.

Audyssey Dynamic Volume
For the past several years, receivers have included a dynamic range compression method called Night Mode and now DRC for TruHD content.
It is supposed to solve the problem of content getting too loud, but it has failed to do so for a number of reasons including
wrong setting of the flags during production, inability of the method to adjust the reaction time,
and no capability for perceptual loudness correction when the volume is turned down.
Audyssey Dynamic Volume was designed to address the problems described above and
with its ability to look ahead it can vary the reaction time to increases in loudness so that no artifacts are heard.
Dynamic Volume is designed around a known quantity: dialog level in film. The idea is that the user should set the level for the dialog volume they want. Then, depending on the range you have selected (Light, Heavy), Dynamic Volume will keep the loudest and softest sounds within that range.
The idea is not to squash everything to one volume level. You still want to know that some things are louder than others, but that they stay within an acceptable range.
Audyssey allow some customization in the Dynamic Volume settings because this is a preference. Denon decided on three modes (Midnight/Evening/Day), Onkyo has two (Heavy/Light). Light is very close to Day and Heavy is very close to Midnight.
Dynamic Vol (Light) prevents loud and soft sounds from being much louder and softer respectively than average sounds.
Dynamic Vol (Heavy) affects volume the most, causing all sounds to be of equal loudness.

THX Loudness Plus vs Audyssey Dynamic EQ
Roughly speaking Audyssey Dynamic EQ and THX Loudness Plus is attempting to solve the same thing:
http://www.thx.com/technologies/loudness_plus.html
THX Loudness Plus compensates for the tonal and spatial shifts that occur when the volume level is reduced. By automatically raising the levels of the ambient sound, you experience the true impact of movies, music and games regardless of the volume setting.
http://www.audyssey.com/technology/dynamicEQ.html
Audyssey Dynamic EQ is the first loudness correction technology to solve the problem of deteriorating sound quality as volume is decreased by taking into account human perception and room acoustics.
Audyssey Dynamic EQ selects the correct frequency response and surround volume levels moment-by-moment. The result is something never before possible—bass response, octave-to-octave balance and surround impression that remain as they should be despite changes in volume. This is the first technology to carefully combine information from incoming source levels with actual output sound levels in the room, a pre-requisite for delivering a loudness correction solution
The manual and the Onkyo implementation in the menus is extremely confusing.
THX Loudness Plus and Audyssey Dynamic EQ/Dynamic Volume can't be on at the same time because they would interfere with each other.
The Preserve THX selection is Onkyo's way of letting you engage THX for everything except loudness correction.
Preserve THX settings: No -> Audyssey Dynamic EQ / Audyssey Dynamic Volume will be active in THX listening mode depending on the setting.
This setting is only available if “Loudness Plus” is set to “Off”

Audyssey Technologies in Onkyo models:
TX-NR906 and TX-SR876 : MultEQ XT, Dynamic EQ and Dynamic Volume
TX-SR806 and TX-SR706 : MultEQ and Dynamic EQ
TX-SR606 : 2EQ and Dynamic EQ

[regarding using a SPL meter]
Please understand that it is physically impossible to use an SPL meter (of any brand) and sinusoidal test tones and hope to determine anything about frequency response. That method has no chance. You will not even be in the ballpark. The reason is that sinusoidal tones in a room suffer from standing waves. Just try moving the meter 6" while playing a sine wave and look at the needle. It can move by 10 dB or more.
Making changes to the EQ based on SPL meter measurement with CD tones is like shooting at flies in the dark.
(Also see end of the paragraph about Audyssey MultEQ)

See later for THX Re-Eq/Audyssey Roll-Off

Boomy Bass with Dynamic EQ and music
Music content is not mixed to a standard reference level. It varies by recording. Film uses the same reference mix level for every movie.
Always. Dynamic EQ in the 2008 products is keyed off film reference. When you run MultEQ the trims are set to achieve film reference
with the master volume at 0. At that point Dynamic EQ does nothing. As you turn down from there it starts to apply compensation in the
bass and in the surround levels to match human hearing changes.
But, if the music you are listening to was mixed at totally different reference (usually higher) then Dynamic EQ will not know that.
The solution is to turn down the input trim for the source input that you are using. Then you will have to turn the master volume up to listen at the level you like. Dynamic EQ is fooled
into thinking that the level is higher and therefore it applies less compensation. If you turn it off completely you will be missing out on
the bass content as you start to lower the volume. On the other hand, if you listen at or near 0 then it probably doesn't matter much
whether you have it on or off.
rickardl: Input trim on the Onkyo is the 4-1 IntelliVolume setting:
0 dB: This is the default setting and should be used when listening to movies.
5 dB: Select this setting for content that has a very wide dynamic range, such as classical music.
10 dB: Select this setting for jazz or other music that has a wider dynamic range. This setting should also be selected for TV content as that is usually mixed at 10 dB below film reference.
15 dB: Select this setting for pop/rock music or other program material that is mixed at very high listening levels and has a compressed dynamic range.

(above values taken from newer models which include an Dynamic EQ Reference Level Offset)

[Digital headroom / Does Audyssey MultEQ cause clipping?]
[Digital headroom is] the amount of headroom you have in the digital domain and is blissfully unaware of the amplifier power
that comes after it in the analog domain. Your iPod has a 1 W amplifier, yet it has the exact same digital headroom as
your 100 W receiver.
The digital range is defined as the range from the softest to the loudest signal that can be represented. For a 24 bit system,
this corresponds to about 120 dB (roughly). The maximum signal level is defined as 0 dBFS (FS=full scale). If you exceed 0 dBFS
in the digital domain you will be clipping. If you have signals that are too low in level (say -100 dBFS) then you will start to get
close to the noise floor and will start to hear hiss. So, a well designed product is designed to never exceed 0 dBFS internally
and not hit the noise floor.
Now, let's talk about MultEQ. It is an equalization solution that creates filters that operate on the signal at all times.
These filters have both boost and cut. A boost is basically a multiplication that amplifies the digital signal and therefore great
care must be taken so that the result of that multiplication never exceeds 0 dBFS. In the case of MultEQ the maximum possible
boost is 9 dB. So, when this max boost happens (rarely, but it does happen) we have to make absolutely sure that at no time
the signal exceeds 0 dBFS. To do that, we drop the digital signal level by 9 dB before MultEQ is applied. Then 9 dB is added
back in in the analog domain of the amplifier. That means the system is unity gain and there is no loss of level because of MultEQ.

------------------------------
End of Audyssey related stuff.


How to modify the ISF Day/Night Presets:
1. Menu, Source Setup, then Picture Adjust:
2. Go down to ISF Mode and change to either Day or Night:
3. Hold down Display on the remote for 6-7 seconds:
ISF Day and Night will now have all the same options as Custom and can be used as Presets,
leaving the menu the options will be hidden again automatically.
Standard setting for ISF Day seems to be simply -2 on the gamma and +1 on the gamma for Night..

How to enable/disable the Music Optimizer:
In Remote Mode: Receiver, press down the 'DIRECT' button on the remote until (about 5 secs) Music Optimzer: Off
is displayed on the OSD. Toggle on/off with left/right arrow.

How to adjust the 'Monitor Out' picture settings without entering fullscreen OSD Setup:
In Remote Mode: Receiver, press down the 'DISPLAY' button on the remote until the settings appear on the OSD.
Select setting to adjust with up/down arrow, change value with left/right arrow.

How to adjust the 'Picture Adjust' settings (Zoom etc) without entering fullscreen OSD Setup:
In Remote Mode: Receiver, press down the Input Selector button on the remote until the settings appear on the OSD.
Select setting to adjust with up/down arrow, change value with left/right arrow.
Note: the manual says you should use the 'DISPLAY' button but that is not correct.

6. Miscellaneous Setup->2.OSD Setup->Immediate Display
This setting determines whether operation details are displayed onscreen immediately after an AV receiver function is used.
On: Displayed (default).
Off: Not displayed.
For optimal video performance, THX recommends that “Immediate Display” be turned off.
Also, the OSD overlay graphic seem to be 10-bit so any 12-bit HDMI signal feed to the receiver gets downconverted to 10-bit which can cause strange image errors which looks like bit depth mismatching.

What about aspect ratios? (4:3 and 16:9)
For each individual video source input, you can specify a "zoom mode" for how
the video should displayed. So you could have "Full" set for DVD and "Normal"
for your cable box and so on. Please note that the receiver does not change the aspect
ratio automagically if the source aspect ratio changes, you have to change
it manuallly in the menu.
See picture for the different zoom modes.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1229091603

How to see what input your receiver is getting?
Press down 'DISPLAY' on the front panel until it shows
1) the sound format, such as Dolby Digital 5.1, and then
2) the input and output video resolution, such as 576p/50 -> 1080p/50
Pressing down 'DISPLAY' on the remote will only show the sound format and then go into the picture settings mode described above.

Firmware
On the front panel, press 'DISPLAY' and 'Standby' to display the main firmware:
Main 1.00/08703A (latest: 1.05 / 09116A)
then press the arrow button (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...9&d=1237634108) below the 'Tone' button repeatedly to go through the other versions:
DSP 1st SR9061 08611A (latest: 08919A)
DSP 2st SR9062 08605C
DSP 3rd SR9063 08506A
HDMI: 1.00/08627A
VIDEO 08703E01293

Main versions:
Main 87....1.00 / 08703A
Main 87....1.01 / 08801A
Main 87....1.03 / 08Y17A 876_Y17a.mot DHC99_Y17a.mot
Main 87....1.04 / 08Z22A 876_Z22A.mot (Gamma-bug fixed + discrete remote codes for Audyssey and ISF-selections)
Main 87....1.05 / 09116A DHC99_116a.mot (no known difference from 1.04)
The Main firmware seems to be the same for a number of models since the actual firmware itself contains these models as well as some Integra:
ONKYO TX-SR876, TX-SA876, TX-NR906,TX-NA906,TX-SA806X,TX-NA906X,PR-SC886
but that is just a guess...

DSP update for DTS-MA problem which updates DSP 1st: SR9061 08919A.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1016297

New Main firmware available at Onkyo Service points only, 2009-01-14: Main 87 1.04 08Z22A

How to upgrade the firmware
makelegs was kind enough to provide his instructions which I used as a base and thanks to gurkey and ibmack for taking a second look at them as well as markymiles and JonStatt.
Please note that you are doing this on your own and will probably void warranty and don't blame anyone else than yourself it you screw it up or if it doesn't work even if you followed the instructions.
The firmware should only upgraded by the official Onkyo Service Point so you are on your own.
What is described below is just an example of how "easy" it can be if you decide to do it.
If anything is missing or is incorrect or if something needs more explaination, let me know and I will update the instructions!
All about the firmware can be read here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1016297
and post any questions about the upgrade process there.

Here are the steps to complete the 876 FW update:

1) Plug in USB end of RS-232 adapter into computer and load any drivers for it.

2) Go to "Ports" in Device manager, and set adapter to COM-1
(Right-click on the device->Properties->Port Settings Tab->Advanced)

You may have com port 1 already in use. You would then need to assign the adapter to a different com port.
If this is the case you will also need to change the update software to the same port BEFORE clicking
the main update button, step 7. The com ports available on the update software are 1-3.

3) Turn off the power of the receiver (*)

4) Connect db9 RS-232 cable to both the USB adapter and the 876, make sure they are securly fastened.

5) Hold "Enter" behind the front flap while powering the receiver back on (*).
"MainUpdateMode" appears on the 876 screen.

6) Run "UPDATE.EXE" on the computer
If it complains about drivers, unpack the Setup_Adapater-package and run the setup.exe contained therein.
It should list something like ths:
Firmware Read Result ********************************
001. F000000A / FF000000
002. F000000A / 01000000
003. F000000A / 02000000
004. F000000A / 03000000
***************************************************
If not, you are in the wrong directory.

7) Click on the "Main Update" button on the PC screen .... and it's off and running.
(If you get ""Searching F/W..." on the receiver, you could be in the wrong directory at step 6).
(If you get something like "Run-time error '8002'" and "Invalid port number", you have no connection to your receiver. It is either your ports that are not configured correctly or the cable itself)

On the front panel display, it will begin the "erase" countdown and then start the "write" process.
Process includes 25,339 units, and counts rapidly up from 1. It takes 16 minutes.
Note: The update hangs/waits a few secs at 24,933 while the front panel displays "write FFBB00"
but it soon finishes and the display says "Complete" and goes into normal standby.

(*) Either disconnect/connect the power cord of the receiver or press the main power switch behind the front flap if you have a non American model to power off/on.

Temperature
On the front panel, press down 'Display' and keep it pressed down while
pressing 'Standby', release both buttons and then press 'Tone' to display
T: 47/ 43FAN:-
V: 0.00 SEC:H
not sure about the meaning, but seems like 47 is the temperature in celsius,
If there is a '-' after FAN:, the fan(s) are not engaged, possible values are L(ow), M(edium) and H(igh).
Quote:
Originally Posted by CBdicX View Post

Did an experiment by putting a hearblower on the heat sensors to see when the fans will start to work.
This is what i get (see http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...d=1232265113):

from 60 C it will start on L (low)
from 65 C it will go to M (medium)
from 75 C it will go to H (high)

When temp goes down again the fans will run longer, well into the mid 50 C zone, below 55 C they will stop.
The L speed is a low dB sound, but you will hear them.
On M its starting to be loud !
On H its grazy, i do not understand why Onkyo uses these loud fans.
I do think that the users with normal use of the amp will never see or hear the fans at work, as the starting temp of 60 C. high is.


Hardware Reset/Factory Default
On the front panel, hold down 'VCR/Tape' and then 'Standby' buttons at the same time. The front panel display shows "Clear".

What input and output resolutions are supported?
See the attached image, 906res.jpg, from the 876/906-manual.
It will upscale component input to 720p and 1080i through component but only for non-Macrovision sources. For copy protected video, it will switch to 480p if set to 1080i.
So when viewing a DVD, some parts may be copy protected which prohibits upscaling to 1080i (swicthes to 480/576p) and some parts may not be copy proteced which allows for upscaling to 1080i which might cause changes in resolution when contents differ in that aspect.
And please note that it only accepts up to 1080i input over component video cable and it will not convert HDMI to analog component video.

What Audio formats are supported through HDMI?
The AV receiver’s HDMI interface is based on the following standard:
Repeater System, Deep Color, Lip Sync, DTS-HD Master Audio, DTS-HD High Resolution Audio, Dolby TrueHD,Dolby Digital Plus, SA-CD, and Multichannel PCM
Supported Audio Formats
• 2-channel linear PCM (32–192 kHz, 16/20/24 bit)
• Multichannel linear PCM (7.1 ch, 32–192 kHz, 16/20/24 bit)
• Bitstream (DSD, Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, DTS, DTS-HD High Resolution, DTS-HD Master Audio)
Your DVD player must be able to output these formats from its HDMI OUT.

No processing of the 7.1 analog audio inputs
No Audyssey or bass management are in effect when 7.1 analog audio inputs are used.
Audyssey is completely disabled and the Bass and Treble controls are also disabled and the crossovers
also seem to have no effect in the receiver on that input and I can't access the trim levels either from the remote.
The only listening mdes available with Multichannel are: DIRECT and PURE AUDIO.

High frequency roll-off with THX Re-EQ and/or Audyssey
THX site:THX Re-EQ is a compensation technology taking soundtracks that are mixed for large cinemas, where speakers are placed farther away from you, and re-establishes the accurate tonal balance for your close range home theater speakers. Without THX Re-EQ, higher frequencies sound excessively “edgy” or “bright.” With THX Re-EQ, the movie soundtrack is true to the original immersive cinematic experience.
Onkyo Manual: With the Re-EQ function, you can compensate a soundtrack whose high-frequency content is too harsh, making it more suitable for home theater viewing.

The Audyssey target frequency curve is flat in the bass with a slight roll-off in the high frequencies.
The roll-off is not based on the type of content. It takes several factors into account including:
(i) the difference in listening conditions that exist in the mixing environment and the home;
(ii) the changes in speaker directivity that occur at higher frequencies, which affect the balance of direct and reverberant sound.
Both of the above apply to movie and most properly produced TV content.
Caveat: If you have THX Cinema Mode = OFF and THX Re-EQ = ON then you will have double the roll off in the high frequencies.
Quick test at 16khz show a 4db roll-off for Audyssey and about 5-6 for THX Re-EQ,

The discussion about Audyssey Flat/Reference and THX with Re-Eq or not
prompted me to go through all the listening modes, about 30, on my Onkyo TX-SR876.
Since it is not possible to manually select Audyssey Reference or Flat with
Onkyo, the below info might be helpful for Onkyo owners.

As before, I played a 16khz test tone and checked the level with a SPL meter with
Audyssey MultEq enabled (Dynamic EQ/Volume turned off) and came up with
four categories of listening modes:

a) modes that use the Audyssey Flat Curve and THX Re-Eq can be 'On' or 'Off'.
b) modes that use the Audyssey Flat Curve and THX Re-Eq can not be applied.
c) modes that use the Audyssey Reference Curve and THX Re-Eq can be 'On' or 'Off'.
d) modes that use the Audyssey Reference Curve and THX Re-Eq can not be applied.

Basically, anything with 'THX' is either a) or b) with the exception of 'Neural THX 7.1' which seemed to be a c).
Anything with 'THX' combined with 'Cinema' or 'EX' fell into a).
Anything with 'THX' combined with 'Music' or 'Games' fell into b).

The modes were you can end up with double high frequency roll off from Audyssey Reference curve
combined with 'THX Re-Eq: On', category c), were:
- DTS Neo 6
- Dolby Prologic Iix Movie
- Dolby Digital EX
- Neural THX 7.1
- Dolby Digital

These modes use Audyssey Flat and can have THX Re-EQ On or Off and the default on On:
Dolby PLIIx THX Cinema
DTS Neo 6 THX Cinema
Neural THX Cinema
THX Cinema
THX Surr EX
THX Ultra2 Cinema
These modes use Audyssey Flat and no THX Re-EQ can selected On or Off:
Dolby PLIIx THX Music
DTS Neo 6 THX Games
DTS Neo 6 THX Music
Nueral THX THX Games
Nueral THX THX Music
THX Games
THX Music
THX Ultra2 Games
THX Ultra2 Music
These modes use Audyssey Reference curve and can have THX Re-EQ On or Off and the default is Off:
DTS Neo 6
Dolby Digital
Dolby Digital EX
Dolby PLIIx Movie
Neural THX 7.1
These modes use Audyssey Reference curve and no THX Re-EQ can be set On or Off:
Dolby PLIIx Music
Dolby PLIIx Studio-Mix
Dolby PLIIx Orchestra
Dolby PLIIx Unplugged
Stereo
Theatre Dimensional
Dolby PLIIx TV-logic

VIDEO ADJUSTMENTS
1-1. Monitor Out
Monitor Out: Use to choose which type of monitor output is being used (Analog/ HDMI Main/HDMI Sub).
The following parameters are memorized for EACH Monitor Out:







Resolution:
  • Through Output resolution is the same resolution of input signal.
  • Auto Output resolution is the highest resolution that TV corresponds that it can handle.("Auto" only available for HDMI Monitor out.)
  • 480p/720p/1080i/1080p Output resolution is the specified resolution. (1080p is only available for HDMI Monitor out.)
  • Source Output resolution is the specified resolution in Picture Adjust.(You can specify an individual resolution of each source.)
(The following parameters are added to or subtracted from adjustments made for each input in "4-4 Picture Adjust" menu.) Example:"1-1 Monitor Out" Brightness is set to (+5), "4-4 Picture Adjust" Brightness is set to (-5), Monitor Output Brightness will be (0).
Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 1 step increments.)
Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.8% in 1 step increments.)
Hue: -50 to +50 (Changes by 1 degree in 1 step increments.)
Saturation: -50 to +50
R Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
R Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)
G Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
G Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)
B Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
B Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)

4-4. Picture Adjust
These parameters are memorized for each source:
Game Mode: On, Off (If set to "On", Video processor latency is lowered. However, some parameters such as Edge Enhancement, Mosquito NR are not available.)
Zoom Mode: Normal, Full, Zoom, or Wide Zoom.
ISF Mode: Custom, Day or Night. (Default Gamma for "Day Mode" is between 1.8 and 1.9, Default Gamma for "Night Mode" is between 2.2 and 2.4)

The following parameters are memorized for each ISF Mode: (To make changes to the following parameters: Push and hold the "Display" button on the remote control for 8 seconds. If you exit the Setup Menu or return to "4. Source Setup" the parameters of ISF Mode "Day" or "Night" are Locked again.)
Resolution: Through/Auto/480p/720p/1080i/1080p (When you choose "Source" in 1-1. Monitor Out -> Resolution, this parameter is effective.)
Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 1 step increments.)
Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.8% in 1 step increments.)
Hue: -50 to +50 (Changes by 1 degree in 1 step increments.)
Saturation: -50 to +50
Picture Mode: Auto/Video/Film (Auto- Automatically detect and process accordingly, Video- 20 fps, Film- 24 fps. Picture Mode function will not work if the source component (DVD player, etc.) is outputting progressive scan video.)
Edge Enhancement: Off/Low/Mid/High (Use to make the picture appear sharper. Edge Enhancement function has no affect when the video resolution is down-converted, for example from 1080p to 720p.)
Mosquito NR: Off/Low/Mid/High (Use to remove shimmering or hazziness that sometimes appears around objects in the picture. Can be issue w/overly compressed MPEG content.)
Random NR: Off/Low/Mid/High (Use to remove indescriminate picture noise such as film grain.)
Block NR: Off/On (Use to remove block distortion that can sometimes appear in the picture. Can be an issue w/overly compressed MPEG content.)
(The NR (Noise Reduction) functions support all video input signals up to 480p/576p.)
Gamma: -3 to +3
Example: If gamma of your monitor is 2.2,
-3: total gamma is 1.6.
0: total gamma is 2.2.
+3: total gamma is 2.8.
R Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
R Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)
G Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
G Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)
B Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
B Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)

Other nice undocumented stuff:

Blue Mode (Blue Only Filter): If Blue Mode is On, R and G of output signal become 0.
(To turn Blue Mode On/Off: From the front panel- push and hold "HDMI OUT" then push "MEMORY".)

ITU Conversion (SD -> HD)
Press down "HDMI Out" and "RT/PTY/TP" button (DIMMER for US model) to bring up
ITU Conversion
(SD -> HD) On
Press "RT/PTY/TP" to toggle On/Off.

From Onkyo marketing:
Audio decoding and processing in the TX-NR906 and TX-SR876 is courtesy of three Texas Instruments Aureus 32-bit DSP chips.
All channels have Burr-Brown PCM1796 192-kHz/24-bit DACs, with a TI-developed architecture that enhances jitter tolerance and dynamic performance for the purest possible digital-to-analog conversion of all signals.
Onkyo’s own VLSC (Vector Linear Shaping Circuitry) at the outputs removes all traces of digital pulse contamination from the final analog signals.
Onkyo’s low-feedback WRAT (Wide Range Amplifier Technology) and parallel push-pull topology employs a three-stage inverted Darlington circuit to dramatically reduce distortion at all output levels. The HCPS (high-current power supply) design ensures ample current for any combination of signal and speakers — often twice as much as from competing products, while the video and audio preamplifier circuits each have separate power supplies and transformers for improved noise isolation

Remote Control codes for almost all functions in the receiver:
(incl Audyssey features and HDMI out selection)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...0&d=1236793484

Reviews
http://playback.avguide.com/issue/16
LL
LL
LL
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post #2 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 02:22 AM
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What are the differences between the 875 and the 876? I could get the 875 for around 870, while the 876 would go for about 1330....Is the price difference justified? I could even get an 905 for about 1250...I remember reading that the 875 was having lipsync issues and overheating problems, so it has kept me slightly away for getting it.

Thanks a bunch for your help!
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post #3 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 02:35 AM
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The 875 never had overheating issues (I do have one).
It's getting a bit warm, especially if You don't have enough clearance around the unit (cabinet ?).
This is mostly due to the Reon VX HQV processor.
The lip sync problem had been resolved some time ago with the latest firmware update 1.07.


Quote:
Originally Posted by FredsterB View Post

What are the differences between the 875 and the 876? I could get the 875 for around €870, while the 876 would go for about €1330....Is the price difference justified? I could even get an 905 for about €1250...I remember reading that the 875 was having lipsync issues and overheating problems, so it has kept me slightly away for getting it.

Thanks a bunch for your help!

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post #4 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 05:53 AM
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Ok, thanks for your reply! What do you think, is the 875 worth the buy or is the 876 a "safer" bet?

What are the differences, except for the serial#?
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post #5 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 06:01 AM
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Hard to tell for the 876, being brand new.
It mostly seems to be a software update (Dynamic EQ, Dynamic Volume and then some) plus a 2nd HDMI output and a new measuring mic to an already excellent AVR (875).
Everything else looks "very" similar to the 875...

Quote:
Originally Posted by FredsterB View Post

Ok, thanks for your reply! What do you think, is the 875 worth the buy or is the 876 a "safer" bet?

What are the differences, except for the serial#?

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post #6 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gurkey View Post

Hard to tell for the 876, being brand new.
It mostly seems to be a software update (Dynamic EQ, Dynamic Volume and then some) plus a 2nd HDMI output and a new measuring mic to an already excellent AVR (875).
Everything else looks "very" similar to the 875...

Added this to the first post:
Functional differences/changes from TX-SR875 based on the Onkyo website:
- THX Loudness Plus
- Audyssey Dynamic EQ for Loudness Correction
- Audyssey Dynamic Volume to Maintain Optimal Listening Level and Dynamic Range
- an extra HDMI out: 2 HDMI Outputs [Main/Sub])
- ISF (Imaging Science Foundation) Video Calibration Function per input
- Music Optimizer to Support Compressed Digital Music Files
- Newly Designed GUI for System Set-up
- New calibration microphone

corrections/additions welcome...
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post #7 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 08:01 AM
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UK owner here had my 876 for nearly week now,so far very pleased.
Couple of pics.



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post #8 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 09:37 AM
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I mentioned this on the 906 thread, but I'm unable to get component input from my XBox 360 switched out via HDMI. Somebody mentioned they had component video out from a DVD player working, so obviously component video switching can work (duh). I've tried each of IN1-3, and different settings such as forcing 720p/1080i/1080p resolution or just using source settings, but it makes no difference, I get the same old blue screen.

I'm also on my 2nd 876. The first one had the same issue.

Has anybody else had any trouble switching an XBox 360, or anything else via component video? Unfortunately I've got no other component video devices to test with.
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post #9 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distobj View Post


Has anybody else had any trouble switching an XBox 360, or anything else via component video? Unfortunately I've got no other component video devices to test with.


360/Wii and DVD player connected via component into the amp and out via HDMI....no problem at all.
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post #10 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickardl View Post

Added this to the first post:
Functional differences/changes from TX-SR875 based on the Onkyo website:
- THX Loudness Plus
- Audyssey Dynamic EQ for Loudness Correction
- Audyssey Dynamic Volume to Maintain Optimal Listening Level and Dynamic Range
- an extra HDMI out: 2 HDMI Outputs [Main/Sub])
- ISF (Imaging Science Foundation) Video Calibration Function per input
- Music Optimizer to Support Compressed Digital Music Files
- Newly Designed GUI for System Set-up
- New calibration microphone

corrections/additions welcome...

Ok, so it's not that much different...oh boy, i have really difficult to make up my mind:-/ If i get the 875, i will be thinking "oh, the 876 would have been so much cooler", if i get the 876 i'be thinking "oh, the 875 would be so worth its money" Jeez, i am a PITA to my self!

@kingfats, are you experiencing any lip-sync issues? or any other?

To my earlier question about the differences between the 875/876, i was just wondering if it had the same fate as 805/806, as if i've understod right, the 806 has suffered some drawbacks compared to the 805.
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post #11 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingfats View Post

360/Wii and DVD player connected via component into the amp and out via HDMI....no problem at all.

Thanks, kingfats, that's the first confirmation I've seen of somebody getting this working. I must be doing something wrong.

AFAIK, once I've set HDMI Main for output, I should just have to go to the "Component Video Input" screen and associate "Game/TV" with IN1. Assuming I've got the 360 plugged into input #1, and the receiver switched to Game/TV, it should work, right? Was there anything else you had to do?
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post #12 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FredsterB View Post

@kingfats, are you experiencing any lip-sync issues? or any other?

I'm not kingfats, but FWIW, I've been very happy with the 876 so far (other than my aforementioned component input problems). The first unit I received had some minor issues (some permanently lit pixels on the display, manual volume dial didn't work) so my retailer quickly replaced it.

I've observed no lip sync issues at all, but have noticed in the manual that there's a couple of ways of dealing with them if they arise.

I've been very impressed with the sound processing modes in combination with the Audyssey setup, though I've got an ISF calibrator coming in in a couple of weeks to do it (video too) properly.
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post #13 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 11:32 AM
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Can someone confirm that the 876 can have different Video processing applied *per input* OR.. is it *per output*.

eg:
Cable Box into HDMI IN 1, Out HDMI Sub to TV HDMI 1
Wii into Component IN 1, Out HDMI Sub to TV HDMI 1 *with different video processing applied than to the Cable Box


The 2 HDMI outputs are important to me because I have:
1. Cable Box (SD and HD materials) via HDMI
- 4x3 and 16x9 material
2. Wii for gaming via component
3. XBox for gaming via HDMI
4. PS3 for Blu Ray and network movie playback and a little bit of gaming via HDMI
- SD and HD, 4x3 and 16x9 material
5. Apple TV via component (only used as an Air Tunes client)

Possibly a Popcorn Hour and/or HTPC in the future (undecided)

Between the 2 HDMI outs and the 3 HDMI INs on my Sony KDS-60A3000 TV I should be able to have quite a bit of flexibility to apply different video processing and TV modes (eg: game mode) but I understand the 906 handles the INs and OUTs differently than the 875 did.
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post #14 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 12:03 PM
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Can someone provide a screen shot or a link to a screen shot of what the new GUI looks like on the 876, thanks
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post #15 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007james View Post

Can someone provide a screen shot or a link to a screen shot of what the new GUI looks like on the 876, thanks

Is there an OSD for volume level?

Also when the OSD is displayed, does it do anything funky to the video stream?
(I understood that previous models kicked the video down to 480i while the OSD was displayed).

egg
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post #16 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggman51 View Post

Can someone confirm that the 876 can have different Video processing applied *per input* OR.. is it *per output*.

It's both, if I understand what you're asking. Perhaps you'd be best off just downloading the manual and checking for yourself though. I don't have the link handy, but just visit onkyousa.com and go to support->manuals.
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post #17 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggman51 View Post

Is there an OSD for volume level?

Also when the OSD is displayed, does it do anything funky to the video stream?
(I understood that previous models kicked the video down to 480i while the OSD was displayed).

egg

Yes, there's OSD volume, and it's on by default. I just turned mine off last night in fact. But it didn't negatively impact the video stream at all.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FredsterB View Post


@kingfats, are you experiencing any lip-sync issues? or any other?

.

No lip sync or audio drop outs.
No handshake or heat issues.It's my first Onkyo and i did read they got very hot it runs quite cool to be honest....compared to my Denon anyway.
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post #19 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distobj View Post


AFAIK, once I've set HDMI Main for output, I should just have to go to the "Component Video Input" screen and associate "Game/TV" with IN1. Assuming I've got the 360 plugged into input #1, and the receiver switched to Game/TV, it should work, right?

Yes,that should be it.
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post #20 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007james View Post

Can someone provide a screen shot or a link to a screen shot of what the new GUI looks like on the 876, thanks





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post #21 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distobj View Post

It's both, if I understand what you're asking. Perhaps you'd be best off just downloading the manual and checking for yourself though. I don't have the link handy, but just visit onkyousa.com and go to support->manuals.

Cheers.

I did download and read the manual but it was not clear to me if I can:
- disable reon processing to component source going out HDMI Main
- apply reon processing to HDMI 1 source going out HDMI Main
- apply different reon processing to HDMI 2 source going out HDMI Main

I understood with the 875 that the video processing was applied across ALL inputs and it could not be adjusted on a per input basis.

With the 2 outs on the 876 I want to understand if the video processing is adjustable at the outputs, OR if I can do the above (meaning it is adjustable at the input).

Having it be adjustable at the inputs would be very flexible (gives 4 discrete options) as opposed to the outputs (giving 2 discrete options). Both of which would be an important improvement over the 875 which I understood to apply globally to the single HDMI output (a single option).

egg
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post #22 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggman51 View Post

Cheers.

I did download and read the manual but it was not clear to me if I can:
- disable reon processing to component source going out HDMI Main
- apply reon processing to HDMI 1 source going out HDMI Main
- apply different reon processing to HDMI 2 source going out HDMI Main



egg

Yes,you can do that.
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post #23 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingfats View Post

Yes,you can do that.

That's excellent news - thanks for that clarification kingfats. That really is a nice capability for a receiver in this price range. This is an important feature to me given the number of different sources and types I plan to run through the receiver.

egg
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post #24 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 03:36 PM
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Can anyone answer if the 876 will auto adjust the screen "aspect ratio" for 4:3 content versus 16:9 content?

eg: I watch a show in 4:3 SD from Cable Box via HDMI 1. I change the channel to an HD show in 16x9. Will the output auto adjust so that I can see both formats in their original aspect ratio?

egg
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post #25 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 04:27 PM
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Anyone tried out the video upconversion through HDMI? Is it better than the 606/706/806?
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post #26 of 5086 Old 09-17-2008, 07:29 PM
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Several posts have highlighted the lag when switching input sources, but I seem to recall from reading threads on Onkyo's previous crop of high-end receivers last year that there was a noticable lag in the picture and sound locking in when changing channels from a cable/sat box. I'd be interested in any first hand reports on whether "channel change lag" is an issue.
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post #27 of 5086 Old 09-18-2008, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggman51 View Post

Can anyone answer if the 876 will auto adjust the screen "aspect ratio" for 4:3 content versus 16:9 content?

eg: I watch a show in 4:3 SD from Cable Box via HDMI 1. I change the channel to an HD show in 16x9. Will the output auto adjust so that I can see both formats in their original aspect ratio?

egg

No auto-adjust...sorry.
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post #28 of 5086 Old 09-18-2008, 02:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by churchill1945 View Post

Several posts have highlighted the lag when switching input sources, but I seem to recall from reading threads on Onkyo's previous crop of high-end receivers last year that there was a noticable lag in the picture and sound locking in when changing channels from a cable/sat box. I'd be interested in any first hand reports on whether "channel change lag" is an issue.

I don't notice a difference when I switch channels with the cable box
connected to the receiver vs when the cable box is directly connected
to the TV. (HDMI connections)
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post #29 of 5086 Old 09-18-2008, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingfats View Post

No auto-adjust...sorry.

I think I did a lousy job of explaining the question... so I will try again...

If I am watching a 16:9 program that fills the screen via CableBox into HDMI 1 and out HDMI Main and then I change the channel to a 4:3 program, will I see the 4:3 program with thick bars down the sides?
OR...
Will the 4:3 program be stretched to fill the screen? (thus distorting the aspect ratio)

I'd like to be able to see 16:9 HD programming in it's intended rectangular aspect ratio as well as see 4:3 SD programming in it's intended square aspect ratio without having to manually adjust anything.

?

egg
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post #30 of 5086 Old 09-18-2008, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggman51 View Post


If I am watching a 16:9 program that fills the screen via CableBox into HDMI 1 and out HDMI Main and then I change the channel to a 4:3 program, will I see the 4:3 program with thick bars down the sides?

.

?


egg

Yes.
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