Parasound Owners Thread - Page 152 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4531 of 4560 Old 06-25-2015, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbphd View Post
The simple setup I mentioned in the head exploding post, Oppo 95 to Parasound A23 to KEF LS50 speakers, is excellent for music and movies. If you substitute a 105 for the 95, it will also do Cable or Satellite TV via the HDMI connection in the rear; that's what I do with the more elaborate setup. A sub needn't be used to keep the setup even more simple. The SMS-1 bass manager I use has an automated mode in which you just connect its microphone and push three buttons on the remote. The SMS-1 measure tones it produces and makes the spectral adjustments. Or you can use a sub without acoustic room correction, as I suspect most people do.

db
Ok, so I'll consider your setup, it sounds good. I don't see that you can buy an Oppo 95 on their website, just the 103 and 105s. I'd probably just go for the 105 anyway, it has so much to offer. I'll look into your KEF speakers as well, the A23 looks perfect for your setup.
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post #4532 of 4560 Old 06-25-2015, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BillP View Post
Yes. I have only a 2-channel system since music is my priority. I use the same system for movies, but don't care whether car doors slam in back of me (my critical listening is only for music; I don't critically listen to movie soundtracks, but rather critically watch movies). This way, I keep the system very simple: Parasound JC2/A21 2-channel combo driving a pair of Sonus Faber Olympica IIIs.

Bill, this is one nice setup you have. I can imagine how good it sounds. Did you ever try to add surround speakers (for 5.1 naturally recorded SACD, DVD-A oe BD-Audio?). It can give a new dimension to how realistic performance sounds.
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post #4533 of 4560 Old 06-25-2015, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisMc73 View Post
Which leads me to a question about my current setup. I have a lower end Denon 2313CI AVR, which has all my components going into it HDMI wise. I usually have to turn the volume up into the -56 to -60 range to get a good level, is this normal, or a sign of the weak amp in this lower end AVR?
There are many many reasons this could be the case. Simplest: What does -56 even mean in terms of power output? Is your room big? Are you sitting far away? Does your room have a lot of squishy stuff in it? Are you speakers inefficient? Are your speaker's impedance rating difficult for your AVR? Is your AVR plugged into the same circuit as your refrigerator? Are your speakers pointed at the seating area? Are your speakers broken? ...

TL;DR: Basically, there's no real way to answer your question they way you asked it.

BTW, supposedly, if everyone in New York City shouted at the same time it would only equal 100watts of power or something like that.

Last edited by artur9; 06-25-2015 at 02:23 PM.
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post #4534 of 4560 Old 06-25-2015, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upsetter View Post
Bill, this is one nice setup you have. I can imagine how good it sounds. Did you ever try to add surround speakers (for 5.1 naturally recorded SACD, DVD-A oe BD-Audio?). It can give a new dimension to how realistic performance sounds.
No, I haven't. It's always been a 2-channel system (for several decades). But I do enjoy the 2-channel layer on SACDs.
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post #4535 of 4560 Old 06-25-2015, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artur9 View Post
There are many many reasons this could be the case. Simplest: What does -56 even mean in terms of power output? Is your room big? Are you sitting far away? Does your room have a lot of squishy stuff in it? Are you speakers inefficient? Are your speaker's impedance rating difficult for your AVR? Is your AVR plugged into the same circuit as your refrigerator? Are your speakers pointed at the seating area? Are your speakers broken? ...

TL;DR: Basically, there's no real way to answer your question they way you asked it.

BTW, supposedly, if everyone in New York City shouted at the same time it would only equal 100watts of power or something like that.
What does -56 mean? Same thing as 32 out of 100- not much, but it's more meaningful than the latter because it's a reference to the manufacturer's idea of WOT.
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post #4536 of 4560 Old 06-26-2015, 02:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upsetter View Post
Did you ever try to add surround speakers (for 5.1 naturally recorded SACD, DVD-A oe BD-Audio?).
It requires more than adding speakers. The JC-2 doesn't do surround processing. For surround, I use a Cary Cinema 12, the front LR of which are passed through a JC-2 BP to the JC-1 amps. The center goes directly from the Cary to a JC-1, surrounds and rears to A23s, and SW to a Velodyne SMS-1 that controls a pair of HGS-15s.

I play most SACDs as stereo, because I prefer the sound with the Ayre C-5xeMP to that with the Oppo 105 or Sony XA5400ES, but I enjoy Blu-ray DTS-HD MA and Dolby True HD music discs in surround, especially opera. It does add a sense of ambience.

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post #4537 of 4560 Old 06-26-2015, 11:48 AM
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Looks like Im keeping my P7! The P5 is for sale if anyones interested

Pm me for details.
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post #4538 of 4560 Old 06-27-2015, 11:39 AM
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I take it you compared the two and preferred the P7? I guess the DAC section wasn't needed, but other than that, what tipped the scales in favor of the P7 for you?
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post #4539 of 4560 Old 06-27-2015, 03:30 PM
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Looks like Im keeping my P7! The P5 is for sale if anyones interested

Pm me for details.
hello
what was the difference sq regarding phone stage between p5 and p7?
best regards
vienna
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post #4540 of 4560 Old 06-28-2015, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by audio4life View Post
I take it you compared the two and preferred the P7? I guess the DAC section wasn't needed, but other than that, what tipped the scales in favor of the P7 for you?
Yes, I was able to A/B them in my setup as best I could manage (and as quick as possible).

I must acknowledge the two likely would sound much more similar than different if one were to not hear them side by side. Anyway, the P7 sounded a bit more natural and refined. Slightly less edgy maybe? The tracks I tested sounded a bit more realistic with a very smooth overall sound....tough to put into words. . The P5 sold quickly. I had no need for its internal DAC either. Oh, the P7 has much better volume adjustment as well!


Edit - Forgot to mention, I also plan to dive more into High Res Multi Ch material with the P7! I just bought a ton of stuff

Last edited by merrymaid520; 06-28-2015 at 08:00 PM.
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post #4541 of 4560 Old 06-28-2015, 11:17 AM
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3rd JC-1 is different

I installed a 3rd JC-1 yesterday. It drives the center channel, and the sound of the 8 Ω KEF R600C now matches that of the 4 Ω 107/2s quite well. But this JC-1 seems different from the pair I’m using to drive the 107/2s. In high bias mode it runs hot to the touch, whereas the pair that drive the 107/2s are just warm to the touch. If I set the bias of the new JC-1 to low, it is also just warm to the touch. Reviews and a couple of posts have noted that the amps run hot, but I thought the 107/2s might be an easy load and coupled with the moderate levels of music I prefer may have accounted for the mild warmth. Now I wonder if the pair of amps I bought to drive the 107/2s may be running in low bias mode even though the switch is set to high bias. Those amps sound great driving the 107/2s. Would I notice any difference in sound between high and low bias at moderate levels?

Also, the blue light of the new amp is much brighter than that of the other two amps and is bright whether powered up or not — the red lights of all the amps follow the same pattern of being bright when on and going to dim when off.

Any advice or comments from those more familiar with the JC-1 amps would be appreciated.

db
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post #4542 of 4560 Old 06-28-2015, 11:54 AM
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I would contact Parasound with your observations. Perhaps the amp just needs to break in a little, give it 100 hours and see how it is. Hopefully some owners can report.

Edit: Here's a thought, perhaps you could connect one of your existing amps to the center, and the new JC1 to the 107/2. See if the new amp still heats up and the other JC1 still runs cooler.

Last edited by audio4life; 06-28-2015 at 11:58 AM.
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post #4543 of 4560 Old 06-29-2015, 06:57 PM
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Proof of my recent parasound preamp shootout
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post #4544 of 4560 Old 06-30-2015, 03:55 AM
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Proof of my recent parasound preamp shootout
You're not giving the AVR or power amp much breathing room- do they run hot in that cabinet?
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post #4545 of 4560 Old 06-30-2015, 08:47 AM
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You're not giving the AVR or power amp much breathing room- do they run hot in that cabinet?
The front and rear is completely open. They do not get hot at all and I have never had a problem. The middle amp and Yamaha pre have a few inches minimum on all sides. The pic might be a bit deceiving.
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post #4546 of 4560 Old 07-02-2015, 03:44 PM
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I joined the club today! Got an A52 to drive Klipsch reference premiers in a 5.1 setup. I was concerned that the A52 wouldn't result in audible improvements over the using the amps in the Marantz SR6007, but I'm very, very happy with the results.

I also have an A23 coming next week to power my LS50s (replacing a Brio-R). With the LS50s, I'll be running Schiit Yggdrasil > Schiit Mjolnir as preamp > A23 > LS50s. Can't wait to hear what the A23 does for this system.
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post #4547 of 4560 Old 07-02-2015, 08:46 PM
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I'm debating on selling my Halos and going a different route! Planning on doing Atmos/ Dts X set up and need multi channel amps!!
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post #4548 of 4560 Old 07-03-2015, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisMc73 View Post
Nice. I figured this was the case, even though you're just 1 of many here, I'm starting to feel like I'm in the crowd of 2 channel stereo music fans.
Maybe I should just start there, build a nice setup for the music and expand later if I feel the need. With all the advice here I'm sure I could get it done well.

Which leads me to a question about my current setup. I have a lower end Denon 2313CI AVR, which has all my components going into it HDMI wise. I usually have to turn the volume up into the -56 to -60 range to get a good level, is this normal, or a sign of the weak amp in this lower end AVR? If amps were in the mix would it be a different looking number, not that the number matters at all to me I obviously don't know what they mean anyway, but it feels like I'm cranking it up a lot to get to a normal level, or is that just me not knowing what normal is?
I replied to your question about the volume control setting without seeing the model of your AVR and I would like to change my answer to:

At -56 to -60, you shouldn't be hearing much. The volume control on this model, when using it in 'relative mode', indicates the attenuation of the signal, relative to a reference level. If you had to operate in the -10 range or above, I would say that the source input levels are set incorrectly or the speakers are very insensitive. I have the same AVR and usually had it in the -20 range at the loudest, except when I had a program with lower audio level. At -20, I found that I still had plenty of headroom, even for music and movies that were very dynamic-sounding.

As long as the sound is clear and undistorted, you have absolutely no problem.

Sorry about the previous answer- I'm not sure why I missed the most important part of your question. If you were using the absolute level indication (0 to 100), I think it would be around 30 to 40 but even then, the way the control reacts to each increment is more important than the number- it's just a representation, not a way to tell anyone the exact output level in terms of Watts, dB, etc.
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post #4549 of 4560 Old 07-03-2015, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by llang269 View Post
I'm debating on selling my Halos and going a different route! Planning on doing Atmos/ Dts X set up and need multi channel amps!!


Why not just do a couple A51's or A52's and call it a day?

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post #4550 of 4560 Old 07-03-2015, 01:44 PM
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Why not just do a couple A51's or A52's and call it a day?
They don't make the A52 anymore! And I've heard the a51 multiple times. I wasn't impressed with it at all. If I could afford Jc1's that would be the route I would go

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post #4551 of 4560 Old 07-03-2015, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by llang269 View Post
They don't make the A52 anymore! And I've heard the a51 multiple times. I wasn't impressed with it at all. If I could afford Jc1's that would be the route I would go


Yes, but there are still A52's floating around out there. I see them come up in classifieds or on ebay often enough.


Have you heard the A21? I know a popular setup is the A21 for main L/R and then an A51 for surrounds. What about the A51 didn't you like?


The new classic stuff is pretty good also, especially if all you intend to use it for are surround/atmos height channels. JC1's would IMO be a huge waste of money for such seldomly used surround duties, but to each his own.

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post #4552 of 4560 Old 07-03-2015, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by adrummingdude View Post
Yes, but there are still A52's floating around out there. I see them come up in classifieds or on ebay often enough.


Have you heard the A21? I know a popular setup is the A21 for main L/R and then an A51 for surrounds. What about the A51 didn't you like?


The new classic stuff is pretty good also, especially if all you intend to use it for are surround/atmos height channels. JC1's would IMO be a huge waste of money for such seldomly used surround duties, but to each his own.
The Jc1's would be for my front 3 speakers. Not surround speakers, I have an A21 and it's incredible. The A51 isn't as quite as the A21 and Jc1! It's not as dynamic or detailed.

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post #4553 of 4560 Old 07-04-2015, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by llang269 View Post
The Jc1's would be for my front 3 speakers.
I just added a third JC 1 for the center channel to drive a KEF R600C. Front LRs are a pair of KEF Reference 107/2s. A pair of A23s drive KEF 102 surrounds and T301 rears. I played several 5.1 SACDs yesterday using a Sony XA5400ES, and 5.1 with the Sony had never sounded so good, it was superb. THE LCR speakers are biwired with Clear Day Doubles, and the JC 1 amps make that trivial with their double lugs for speaker cables. The audio trigger is a nice feature, because only two JC 1s are triggered on for stereo; the other three amps remain in standby.

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post #4554 of 4560 Unread 07-04-2015, 08:47 AM
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The Jc1's would be for my front 3 speakers. Not surround speakers, I have an A21 and it's incredible. The A51 isn't as quite as the A21 and Jc1! It's not as dynamic or detailed.
Yeah, I enjoy my A21 very much as well.


I've heard that about the A51 (and A31) before. It's hard to believe there would be that much difference between them and the A21, but that seems to be the popular opinion of the matter.

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post #4555 of 4560 Unread 07-04-2015, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by adrummingdude View Post
Yeah, I enjoy my A21 very much as well.


I've heard that about the A51 (and A31) before. It's hard to believe there would be that much difference between them and the A21, but that seems to be the popular opinion of the matter.
I have an A-31 driving my low impedance speakers with no issues whatsoever.....................actually, I like A-31 as much as my Krell Evo 403 which I sold last Fall. I have an ATI 3007 coming due to Atmos implementation and will test. If the 3007 doesn't perform like the A-31, I'll keep the A-31 and deal with rack space issues!
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USB trigger from Oppo 105D to A21/P5

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post
I have used a signal based trigger but I had times when the left channel was not getting enough signal to trigger the amp on.
The 15 minute turn off is by design.

I constructed a USB trigger using a digikey 5 volt to 12 volt using a digikey "102-1432-ND 5.78000 5.78 T CONVERTER DC/DC 12V REG OUT 1W".
It worked great but it for those inclined to wire stuff together.

- Rich
Hello Rich,
pls could you make a simple sketch by the hand, how did you connected dc 5/12 v converter and 3,5mm plug to USB, make photo and place in forum,
I suppose how it should be one, but due to solution doen by you which is working well, I´m asking just to be sure
thanks+regards
vienna
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Need help -

I have A21 amps that I'm having to constantly switch back and forth between XLR and RCA from a variety of sources. I have a passive XLR switch and passive volume controls that are far superior to going through an active preamp.

I want to convert my RCA connectors to XLR. I connected up some cables and adapters that I had and when I powered on the system, I got a loud ground loop that scared me and I quickly shut everything down. Luckily everything is okay and nothing was damaged. The cable was a rca to female XLR and then I used a male XLR to male XLR convertor. It didn't work.

I am now scared to try these connectors: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Technolog...ca+to+xlr+male

Will they allow me to plug in an rca source and convert it to XLR to go through a XLR switch and XLR volume control to the A21 without grounding issues?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llang269 View Post
I'm debating on selling my Halos and going a different route! Planning on doing Atmos/ Dts X set up and need multi channel amps!!
Halo owner here:
Halo A21 (Front L&R) and A31 (Center, L&R surrounds)

When I upgraded to Dolby Atmos this year I too needed multichannel amplifiers so I went with the new 12 channel Parasound ZoneMaster 1250. I bridge 8 channels and have an excellent 160W per channel going to each of my 4 ceiling Atmos speakers. I use the other 4 ZoneMaster channels for zones 2&3.

This is a versatile amplifier that provides plenty of current and headroom for Blu-ray Atmos movies (what few there are). It sounds fine, not in the way and runs very cool to the touch.

"Every time I put the line in the water I said a Hail Mary and every time I said a Hail Mary I caught a fish." - Fredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papak Stari View Post
Hello Rich,
pls could you make a simple sketch by the hand, how did you connected dc 5/12 v converter and 3,5mm plug to USB, make photo and place in forum,
I suppose how it should be one, but due to solution doen by you which is working well, I´m asking just to be sure
thanks+regards
vienna
I bought the pars on digi-key and no longer use this method.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PDS1-S5-S12-S/102-2753-ND/4009677


http://www.cui.com/product/resource/pds1-s.pdf

At this point, I recommend buying the Emotiva ET-3 part and make a USB to trigger cable:

https://emotiva.com/products/accessories/et-3

Digikey has these cables as well or you can hack up a standard cable you buy anywhere.

- Rich

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post #4560 of 4560 Unread Today, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by STIGUY2014 View Post
Need help -

I have A21 amps that I'm having to constantly switch back and forth between XLR and RCA from a variety of sources. I have a passive XLR switch and passive volume controls that are far superior to going through an active preamp.

I want to convert my RCA connectors to XLR. I connected up some cables and adapters that I had and when I powered on the system, I got a loud ground loop that scared me and I quickly shut everything down. Luckily everything is okay and nothing was damaged. The cable was a rca to female XLR and then I used a male XLR to male XLR convertor. It didn't work.

I am now scared to try these connectors: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Technolog...ca+to+xlr+male

Will they allow me to plug in an rca source and convert it to XLR to go through a XLR switch and XLR volume control to the A21 without grounding issues?
You should not connect both XLR and RCA to the same A21 channel. The is not a toggle between inputs. It optimizes the handling of the XLR input.


- Rich

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Parasound , Parasound Products Inc , Parasound Classic 2100 Stereo Pre Amp

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