Parasound Owners Thread - Page 166 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #4951 of 5354 Old 03-24-2016, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by audiofan1 View Post
Testing using one speaker Interesting to say the least. looking forward to your evaluations once the duals arrive
I got the idea from Revel. They use one speaker for comparative testing.


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post #4952 of 5354 Old 03-24-2016, 04:41 PM
 
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Originally Posted by msdunkel View Post
Thanks!

This might be a really dumb question but I'll ask it anyway -- would it be possible to put 2 atmos speakers on a single channel? If possible, would it be stupid to do so or not a big deal since those are low usage effect speakers anyway?

That is not possible
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post #4953 of 5354 Old 03-24-2016, 04:52 PM
 
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Originally Posted by gdpeck View Post
Hi All,
I've read some posts about the Zonemaster 1250, which seem pretty complimentary, and it sounds like it has performed for some here very well in an Atmos type of application. I'm curious about this amp for another purpose. My HT system is and likely always will be 5.1, due to space constraints, and my lack of desire to run more wires, or cut more holes in my ceiling. Current setup is:

NAD T775 AVR
Fronts - Polk LSi9
Center - Polk LSiC
Rear - Polk LSiFX
Sub HSU VTF3 mk2

The T775 has 7 channels of amplification, and I use the remaining 2 channels to power patio speakers. I have been very happy with the performance and sound of this system for music and movies, however the NAD recently had a Front Right Amplifier board fail, and this is a very expensive ($1200 US) repair. I've decided not to repair the NAD, and the current plan is to use it as a pre/pro and add a separate amplifier (all of the pre-outs on the receiver still function). The A51 is out of my preferred budget, and also not a good fit due to space / WAF constraints.

I'm wondering if the Zonemaster 1250 would be a good fit, configured with 3 channels bridged for LCR, 2 channels for surrounds and 2 channels for the patio. Has anybody used this amp as a main amp for a 5.1 system? If so what were your results?

If not a good fit, any other suggestions? I don't want to go too far with that, since this is a Parasound thread...


Thanks!
George
The Zonemaster should be a great a great fit/ I think it is rated at 60W a channel but Parasound amps seem to have more than its rated power.
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post #4954 of 5354 Old 03-24-2016, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by seanh1978 View Post
I have a Jc3+ that I've owned for about a year with no problems
. I was using s sounds its zephyr cart with the recommended 47K load setting on the Jc3+, worked flawlessly for a year.

Just upgraded to a Lyra etna MC cart, had it professionally installed, the recommended load for my cart is 100K. So I changed the Jc3+ load setting switch to 47k variable a load setting to 100k and it sounds like I'm playing an iPod
No low frequencies at all. Tried different loads on the dial, same problem. Switch back to fixed 47k as originally and sounds normal but not amazing. Installer said I'm not getting the full effect of the new cart because I can't send the proper load to it and that my Jc3+ is faulty. Anyone else ever this type of issue ?
Where did you get your recommended load for the Etna? I own a Lrya Kleos and the cartridge literature goes into great lengths about cartridge loading. First thing you need to know is approximate phono/tone arm cable capacitance in picofarads PF. A 1 meter low capacitance cable has recommended 523 ohms for loading.

When I first installed my Kleos I tried 523 ohms but did not like the sound. Using my ears I kept adjusting the loading on my Parasound Halo JC3+ And it sounded best at 100 ohms. It stayed there for 3 months, until yesterday when I started to experiment again. Turns out that after cartridge break the new sweet spot was very close to the recommended 523 ohms. Does your phono preamp allow you to easily change your loading to find your sweet spot?

My low end never sounded more solid, way better than at 100 ohms. Let your ears be the judge, it's part of the fun in this hobby.

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Listen to live music and recreate it at home.
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post #4955 of 5354 Old 03-25-2016, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post
I got the idea from Revel. They use one speaker for comparative testing.


- Rich
Fair enough
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post #4956 of 5354 Old 03-25-2016, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witchdoctor View Post
The Zonemaster should be a great a great fit/ I think it is rated at 60W a channel but Parasound amps seem to have more than its rated power.
All of the Zonemaster products share the same amplifier modules and power specs across the family. Each channel is stable down to 2 Ohms which allows you to power multiple speakers with one channel. 50 watts per channel @ 8 Ohms 90 at 4 Ohms and 90 @ 2 Ohms. If you bridge a zone it is rated at 160 Watts into 8 Ohms and 200 into 4 Ohms. if you have any questions about Zonemaster feel free to call us directly.
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2250 Mckinnon Ave.
San Francisco CA 94124
415-397-7100
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post #4957 of 5354 Old 03-31-2016, 04:35 PM
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I've got a buyer in London interested in buying my JC-1's. The rear panel of the JC-1's indicates they will accept 120V/60Hz or 240V/50Hz, so will the buyer just need to substitute power cords appropriate for their 240V service with no other changes needed?
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post #4958 of 5354 Old 03-31-2016, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by audiofan1 View Post
Wow! its a Halo sell off thread lately! Is everyone going ATI? Post some impressions in the ATI thread as I'm looking forward to some feed back
I actually replaced my A51 over a year ago with a Bryston 9BSST2 to match my other
Bryston components. Sadly, Parasound does not make a multi-channel pre-pro. I never had any complaints with several Halos over the years.
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post #4959 of 5354 Old 03-31-2016, 04:50 PM
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I have a 2 year old Black Parasound A21 with the original box and accessories listed in the classified section if anyone is interested. I'm located in CT. No reason it's for sale other than downsizing.

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Sony 940c 75" Display, Marantz AV8801, HTPC, JTR 215RM Mains & JTR 210RM Center, DIY Surrounds, Crown Xti & Cdi Amps, Seaton Submersive HP+ Master and Slave.
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post #4960 of 5354 Old 03-31-2016, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post
I've got a buyer in London interested in buying my JC-1's. The rear panel of the JC-1's indicates they will accept 120V/60Hz or 240V/50Hz, so will the buyer just need to substitute power cords appropriate for their 240V service with no other changes needed?

I have read that there are internal changes needed, I would contact Parasound.


- Rich

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post #4961 of 5354 Old 03-31-2016, 06:42 PM
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In less than 5 minutes, I got the following reply from Richard Schram himself:

Quote:
The JC 1 requires an internal wiring change and changing the main fuse to half its present value. The writing change should be performed by a skilled tech. We can supply instructions to the tech whom you or your customer engages.
Kind regards
Richard Schram
President
Parasound Inc.,
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post #4962 of 5354 Old 04-01-2016, 09:49 AM
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I need to move on from my Parasound A23 setup for surround speakers in my dedicated theater room. I have 3 of them driving 6 speakers. I won't bother with the details of the why because its irrelevant. I've had them for 4 years so I'm hoping a comparable option from either Parasound or another company is available. Just looking for something with XLR inputs and comparable specs. Can anyone throw some ideas at me? I'd prefer to be able to sell the Parasounds and move to new/used replacements for less than $500 out of pocket...

This is what I had narrowed down to at the time of purchase, I have no idea if monoblocks or multichannel are better options, but I'm open to suggestions:
Parasound Halo A23
Wyred4Sound MMC-7 ( 7 channel amp) (discontinued)
Outlaw Monoblock 2200 ( x 6 )

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post #4963 of 5354 Old 04-01-2016, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by turls View Post
I need to move on from my Parasound A23 setup for surround speakers in my dedicated theater room. I have 3 of them driving 6 speakers. I won't bother with the details of the why because its irrelevant. I've had them for 4 years so I'm hoping a comparable option from either Parasound or another company is available. Just looking for something with XLR inputs and comparable specs. Can anyone throw some ideas at me? I'd prefer to be able to sell the Parasounds and move to new/used replacements for less than $500 out of pocket...

This is what I had narrowed down to at the time of purchase, I have no idea if monoblocks or multichannel are better options, but I'm open to suggestions:
Parasound Halo A23
Wyred4Sound MMC-7 ( 7 channel amp) (discontinued)
Outlaw Monoblock 2200 ( x 6 )
I'm not sure how much you can sell your Parasound A23's for, but an ATI Signature AT4006 would give you a really nice single box solution (these are available configured with 2-7 channels). I suspect you can probably do better on price if you contact a few dealers (poster SteveH would be a really good option to buy from).
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post #4964 of 5354 Old 04-01-2016, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turls View Post
i need to move on from my parasound a23 setup for surround speakers in my dedicated theater room. I have 3 of them driving 6 speakers. I won't bother with the details of the why because its irrelevant. I've had them for 4 years so i'm hoping a comparable option from either parasound or another company is available. Just looking for something with xlr inputs and comparable specs. Can anyone throw some ideas at me? I'd prefer to be able to sell the parasounds and move to new/used replacements for less than $500 out of pocket...

This is what i had narrowed down to at the time of purchase, i have no idea if monoblocks or multichannel are better options, but i'm open to suggestions:
Parasound halo a23
wyred4sound mmc-7 ( 7 channel amp) (discontinued)
outlaw monoblock 2200 ( x 6 )
nad m27
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http://www.stereophile.com/category/music-round

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post #4965 of 5354 Old 04-02-2016, 05:10 PM
 
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Parasound Z Components Review

I use a Parasound Zdac, Zamp v3 and Zpre v2 in my desktop system supporting JBL 230 speakers using a PC as a source and Mapleshade cables. There is something so refreshing and pure about a system like this. In a nearfield setup its as if the performers are right there in front of you and I mean like in front of your nose. No video processing, Audyssey, just a great two channel setup. So engaging I would recommend anyone considering a desktop system to check out the Z Components. This system makes my speakers sound much better than I thought they were capable of.
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post #4966 of 5354 Old 05-01-2016, 08:50 PM
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First-post greetings! Inspired by this thread, I am setting out to assemble a small 2-channel, near-field desktop system. I'm currently using a Yamaha RX-777 receiver which is serving well as I do listen to local radio stations occasionally so having FM as an option would be nice. I started by picking up a Parasound ZTuner v.2 several months ago and recently picked up a non-working ZPre2 preamp with hopes of servicing it back to life. It appears to have suffered a capacitor failure. The cap replacement is easy enough however the unit was sent without the two internal fuses. I can only assume they blew as a result of the cap failure and would like to get replacement fuses but have no way of determining their value. Any ZPre2 owners willing to remove the top cover to see what the fuse values are? I have contacted Parasound support however I suspect they will not provide the values but instead require the unit be sent in to them for servicing. The PCB has a date stamp of April 2005, I had no idea the v.2 was this old already? Wonder if a v.3 will be released? next purchase will be the ZAmp v.3.
My current speakers are NHT Model 1 in gloss black finish with the angled baffles. A little on the large side for a desktop arrangement but will do for now. Low end frequencies are handled by a Velodyne F1200 sub sourced locally for $25.
With two kids in college funds are at an all time low which explains the low-cost approach to this build, at least at this time in my life.
Any help with the fuse values is greatly appreciated although if no one wants to crack open their ZPre2's I completely understand.
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post #4967 of 5354 Old 05-02-2016, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MusicMoodSwing View Post
First-post greetings! Inspired by this thread, I am setting out to assemble a small 2-channel, near-field desktop system. I'm currently using a Yamaha RX-777 receiver which is serving well as I do listen to local radio stations occasionally so having FM as an option would be nice. I started by picking up a Parasound ZTuner v.2 several months ago and recently picked up a non-working ZPre2 preamp with hopes of servicing it back to life. It appears to have suffered a capacitor failure. The cap replacement is easy enough however the unit was sent without the two internal fuses. I can only assume they blew as a result of the cap failure and would like to get replacement fuses but have no way of determining their value. Any ZPre2 owners willing to remove the top cover to see what the fuse values are? I have contacted Parasound support however I suspect they will not provide the values but instead require the unit be sent in to them for servicing. The PCB has a date stamp of April 2005, I had no idea the v.2 was this old already? Wonder if a v.3 will be released? next purchase will be the ZAmp v.3.
My current speakers are NHT Model 1 in gloss black finish with the angled baffles. A little on the large side for a desktop arrangement but will do for now. Low end frequencies are handled by a Velodyne F1200 sub sourced locally for $25.
With two kids in college funds are at an all time low which explains the low-cost approach to this build, at least at this time in my life.
Any help with the fuse values is greatly appreciated although if no one wants to crack open their ZPre2's I completely understand.
Call Parasound, I believe they will tell you or could send you the parts. When I had questions on the design for the single ended versus XLR for the A31, they sent me skematics which is quite impressive- great company!
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post #4968 of 5354 Old 05-02-2016, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by MusicMoodSwing View Post
First-post greetings!
With two kids in college funds are at an all time low which explains the low-cost approach to this build, at least at this time in my life.
Any help with the fuse values is greatly appreciated although if no one wants to crack open their ZPre2's I completely understand.
Welcome!

Really, I think Parasound will respond to you - they've always been a great service-oriented customer-focused outfit IME. I feel they are a go-to company for reliable, musical and functional components.

I've always been intrigued by the possibility of an all Z- stack. I have a Zamp powering some B&W M-1 in a stellar fashion.

And, man!, do I hear you about kids in college!

BTW, what kind of music puts you in the mood to swing?
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post #4969 of 5354 Old 05-02-2016, 09:03 AM
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Tony from Parasound responded,

"Fuses are ½ (500mA) amp slow blow fuses.

Best regards,"


I'm encouraged that they seem eager to assist which will go a long way in my future audio component decision making.

Thanks for the response and please, do not bother opening your ZPre2 preamps!

One thing I have yet to understand is the DAC, I've never experienced the difference having one adds to the overall process, I've read that it provides a more clean signal which translates into a cleaner end product being what ultimately reaches your ears but there's such a broad spectrum of choices and prices, seems the age old "you get what you pay for" would apply as well. Assembling an all "Z" product line would mean a strong consideration for the ZDac. preferably the v.2. At $279-$399 it might be out of reach for now, but certainly not out of the question. Just wondering if it would make that much of a difference?

Music for me is inspiring where the right song or tune can change my mood for the better, ever have a bad day, or just a bad moment where you're maybe discouraged, or bored, or just plain blah and you hear a new song, or an old favorite and before you know it you've forgotten about the blues? <--(inserted music pun fully intended) This experience (for me) is even more rich when the sound reproduction is superior. I suspect I'm in good company in this forum when it comes to high quality sound reproduction.
Thanks again.
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post #4970 of 5354 Old 05-02-2016, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MusicMoodSwing View Post
T
One thing I have yet to understand is the DAC, I've never experienced the difference having one adds to the overall process,
A DAC may not make any difference. Here on AVS I think the vast majority do not think there are differences between equally well executed DACs. If you have a CD player the DAC in it is probably fine, ditto for DACs built-in to other devices.

I got my DAC because I was playing things through my computer and the regular computer audio was terrible, thin and noisy. So, rather than buy an expensive sound card, I got a moderately priced DAC. After that, in true hobby fashion, it's been fun to use it in other places to see what difference it makes.

If you want to try a DAC out the Dragonfly Black or the Schiit Audio Modi 2 both at $99 are good places to start. I have a Schiit Bifrost and love the sound of it.
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post #4971 of 5354 Old 05-11-2016, 11:29 PM
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Just had a question for the masses - would there be any real difference in swapping out Monster Cable M2.4s biwire speaker cable for Monster Cable Sigma Retro Gold speaker cable?
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post #4972 of 5354 Old 05-24-2016, 08:09 AM
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I occasionally hear what I can best describe is a quiet thermal knock from either my Halo A21 or Halo A31. They are always in stand by mode when not in use. A little while after being fully powered on I sometimes (not always) hear a little knock, like somebody rapping one knuckle on the chassis. Certainly thermal related. I may try to isolate it to one or the other amplifier someday.


Its not a problem whatsoever just an observation, and I am curious if anyone else has experienced this? I don't want to trouble Parasound or Mr.Schram because there is nothing I need to or expect to be addressed.


Parasound powered
Halo A21 (Front L&R)
Halo A31 (Center & Surrounds)
ZoneMaster 1250 - Bridged for 6 channels (4 ceiling Atmos, 2 rear surrounds)
Zamp v.3 (qty. 2 - 4 ceiling speakers in zones 2 & 3)

"Every time I put the line in the water I said a Hail Mary and every time I said a Hail Mary I caught a fish." - Fredo
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post #4973 of 5354 Old 05-24-2016, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmarcink View Post
I occasionally hear what I can best describe is a quiet thermal knock from either my Halo A21 or Halo A31. They are always in stand by mode when not in use. A little while after being fully powered on I sometimes (not always) hear a little knock, like somebody rapping one knuckle on the chassis. Certainly thermal related. I may try to isolate it to one or the other amplifier someday.


Its not a problem whatsoever just an observation, and I am curious if anyone else has experienced this? I don't want to trouble Parasound or Mr.Schram because there is nothing I need to or expect to be addressed.


Parasound powered
Halo A21 (Front L&R)
Halo A31 (Center & Surrounds)
ZoneMaster 1250 - Bridged for 6 channels (4 ceiling Atmos, 2 rear surrounds)
Zamp v.3 (qty. 2 - 4 ceiling speakers in zones 2 & 3)
I would ask Parasound technical (not Mr. Schram) as that doesn't sound right.
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post #4974 of 5354 Old 05-24-2016, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmarcink View Post
I occasionally hear what I can best describe is a quiet thermal knock from either my Halo A21 or Halo A31. They are always in stand by mode when not in use. A little while after being fully powered on I sometimes (not always) hear a little knock, like somebody rapping one knuckle on the chassis. Certainly thermal related. I may try to isolate it to one or the other amplifier someday.


Its not a problem whatsoever just an observation, and I am curious if anyone else has experienced this? I don't want to trouble Parasound or Mr.Schram because there is nothing I need to or expect to be addressed.


Parasound powered
Halo A21 (Front L&R)
Halo A31 (Center & Surrounds)
ZoneMaster 1250 - Bridged for 6 channels (4 ceiling Atmos, 2 rear surrounds)
Zamp v.3 (qty. 2 - 4 ceiling speakers in zones 2 & 3)
Give me a call some time so I can ask you more about this sound you are hearing. I dont think it is anything to be alarmed about but I do want to follow up about this.
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Parasound Products Inc.
2250 Mckinnon Ave.
San Francisco CA 94124
415-397-7100
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post #4975 of 5354 Old 05-24-2016, 01:29 PM
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Give me a call some time so I can ask you more about this sound you are hearing. I dont think it is anything to be alarmed about but I do want to follow up about this.

Chris, It was nice chatting with you. Thank you and Parasound for your ongoing professional support.

"Every time I put the line in the water I said a Hail Mary and every time I said a Hail Mary I caught a fish." - Fredo
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post #4976 of 5354 Old 06-01-2016, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmarcink View Post
I occasionally hear what I can best describe is a quiet thermal knock from either my Halo A21 or Halo A31. They are always in stand by mode when not in use. A little while after being fully powered on I sometimes (not always) hear a little knock, like somebody rapping one knuckle on the chassis. Certainly thermal related. I may try to isolate it to one or the other amplifier someday.


Its not a problem whatsoever just an observation, and I am curious if anyone else has experienced this? I don't want to trouble Parasound or Mr.Schram because there is nothing I need to or expect to be addressed.


Parasound powered
Halo A21 (Front L&R)
Halo A31 (Center & Surrounds)
ZoneMaster 1250 - Bridged for 6 channels (4 ceiling Atmos, 2 rear surrounds)
Zamp v.3 (qty. 2 - 4 ceiling speakers in zones 2 & 3)
May I ask the end result after you spoke with Parasound? I've noticed the identical sound on my A21 and it's been reduced si ce I installed a little fan behind it. Just curious if it's harmful etc.

Thanks!
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post #4977 of 5354 Old 06-03-2016, 10:09 AM
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Wireless adapter for C2?

Hi - does anyone happen to know a good wireless adapter to use for the C2 processor? Bluetooth?

Preferably through the RCA connection.

Thanks in advance.
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post #4978 of 5354 Old 06-06-2016, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merrymaid520 View Post
May I ask the end result after you spoke with Parasound? I've noticed the identical sound on my A21 and it's been reduced si ce I installed a little fan behind it. Just curious if it's harmful etc.

Thanks!

Nothing harmful about that quiet "knock" sound whatsoever according to Parasound (Chris). It is definitely thermal related, meaning different chassis and heat sink materials expand at slightly different rates, I am now pretty sure I located the source, which is the top right side of the front panel of my A21 close to the heat sinks. I just happen to be dusting over the weekend when it occurred. If I get ambitious someday I may remove the Halo's from the rack and check the torque on a few fasteners. No hurry, no worries.
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post #4979 of 5354 Old 06-06-2016, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by sonofsoren View Post
Just had a question for the masses - would there be any real difference in swapping out Monster Cable M2.4s biwire speaker cable for Monster Cable Sigma Retro Gold speaker cable?
I had the monster wire and dumped it for bluejeanscable.com 10 and 12 ga wire. Significantly better wire and a heck of a lot less.
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post #4980 of 5354 Old 06-06-2016, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmarcink View Post
Nothing harmful about that quiet "knock" sound whatsoever according to Parasound (Chris). It is definitely thermal related, meaning different chassis and heat sink materials expand at slightly different rates, I am now pretty sure I located the source, which is the top right side of the front panel of my A21 close to the heat sinks. I just happen to be dusting over the weekend when it occurred. If I get ambitious someday I may remove the Halo's from the rack and check the torque on a few fasteners. No hurry, no worries.
Good to know! Thank you and I'm glad it's harmless
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