**Offical** Yamaha RX-V665 AV Receiver thread - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 1951 Old 08-18-2009, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK6583 View Post

ggunnell and rdgrimes,

Thank you for all of your help. Using your replies above, I believe it is the cable box. . . . Fact is, I've grown to really like this receiver. Until this weekend, it had seemlessy integrated all of my AV systems and it has also powered my four Bose 901's without a hitch.

There are so many reported problems with cable box implementations of HDMI that I don't even try it personally, I just run component video and digital (coax or optical) audio from cable boxes.

I really like my 765, too
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post #722 of 1951 Old 08-18-2009, 02:29 PM
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Don't blame HDMI. HDMI works great. It's HDCP that causes all the problems, handshakes and misery.
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post #723 of 1951 Old 08-18-2009, 10:47 PM
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Yes, and HDCP is not going to slow down the Chinese duplicators one bit.

Actually HDMI is a terrible connection with parallel conductor impedance problems and a terrible connector. Good quality coax with hardware/software in the boxes would have been much better.
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post #724 of 1951 Old 08-20-2009, 10:57 AM
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I sent an email to Yamaha about the x65 series, asking two questions about bass management and one about dialnorm. I was told to phone and ask, which I did this morning.

(1) I asked if pcm lfe sent over hdmi is boosted by 10dBs. The answer I was given is no. I tried to explain the problem this poses for blu-ray and uncompressed pcm tracks or tracks decoded in the player, but the rep said just boost the SW trim by 10dBs. I explained that this boosts the redirected bass as well, and he basically said tough--that this was a specific decision by Yamaha. Can someone verify whether this is true? If so, Yamaha would, I believe, be the only major manufacturer to intentionally retain the lfe bug. This would be a real deal killer if true.

(2) Then I asked him about how redirected bass is handled. To do bass management, some avrs FIRST sum the lfe channel with the channels for the speakers set to small AND THEN apply the crossover low pass. If this is done, then any information in the lfe channel above the crossover point is lost. The rep said that the Yamaha x65 series does indeed throw away any lfe info above the crossover. While not a deal breaker, this is disappointing.


(3) My last question was about dialnorm. Some receivers automatically adjust for dialnorm. I was told that the Yamaha x65 series does not.
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post #725 of 1951 Old 08-20-2009, 11:08 AM
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I don't know about the other stuff, but I thought implementing Dialnorm was sort of mandatory. I might be wrong though.

I thought someone had confirmed that one of their receivers did LFE correctly.

"But this one goes up to 11"
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post #726 of 1951 Old 08-20-2009, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon_templar_32 View Post

(1) I asked if pcm lfe sent over hdmi is boosted by 10dBs. The answer I was given is no. .

Baloney, IMHO. There's no discernible issues with LFE levels on M-ch PCM input as far as I can detect. There will be no boost on the m-ch analog input. I use PCM for SACDs all the time and there is abundant LFE. I'm pretty sure I would notice a 10bd drop in LFE. I also often use PCM for BD audio in beta testing and have likewise noticed nothing amiss.

Of course this would only be an issue if your BD player cannot bitstream HD audio.
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post #727 of 1951 Old 08-20-2009, 11:26 AM
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Thanks for the lightning quick responses. Where would we be without AVS!


Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelJHuman View Post

I don't know about the other stuff, but I thought implementing Dialnorm was sort of mandatory. I might be wrong though.

I thought someone had confirmed that one of their receivers did LFE correctly.

Yes, both questions (1) and (2) had been investigated in the 661 thread. That's why I was astounded to hear this about receivers that are several generations later.

Dialnorm is tricky. I believe the htr-5990 automatically boosted DD tracks by 4dBs (on the default assumption that they were 4dBs low), then gave you a message about the actual dialnorm for the disk, and then expected the user to do further adjustment. At least that's what the manual and the THX specs suggested.


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Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

Baloney, IMHO. There's no discernible issues with LFE levels on M-ch PCM input as far as I can detect. There will be no boost on the m-ch analog input. I use PCM for SACDs all the time and there is abundant LFE. I'm pretty sure I would notice a 10bd drop in LFE. I also often use PCM for BD audio in beta testing and have likewise noticed nothing amiss.

Of course this would only be an issue if your BD player cannot bitstream HD audio.

Well, that's good to hear. It would also be an issue for blu-rays having uncompressed pcm as their only hi-res track.
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post #728 of 1951 Old 08-20-2009, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon_templar_32 View Post

Well, that's good to hear. It would also be an issue for blu-rays having uncompressed pcm as their only hi-res track.

I also have noticed nothing amiss on those, and I have a lot of them. I think the CSR you spoke to either confused this with analog inputs or was just clueless. I'd lay 50/50 odds on clueless.
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post #729 of 1951 Old 08-22-2009, 05:32 PM
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Ok so I understand that when you press the info button you get the format shown on the receiver. What's annoying about that is if you choose a extended surround field to matrix your signal to 7.1 (like PLII Movie) while you're watching a movie it keeps switching between for example DolbyTrueHD and PLIIX movie. To me this is a little distracting. Is this how it's supposed to work?
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post #730 of 1951 Old 08-22-2009, 06:01 PM
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I posted this in another thread as well in the audio theory, but here goes:

I recently purchased a Yamaha 665 receiver, and a 5.1 Paradigm surround sound set. The floor standing speakers, center channel AC powered Sub, and the two speakers on the back/wall. I apologize but I don't know the model numbers of the speakers off hand. It cost me around $1600. Hope I didn't get ripped - everything looks and sounds good for the most part.

Now my question is....When watching movies on my Samsung Blu-Ray Player, i always switch between two entirely different modes on my receiver : The Movie setting (which you can pick between Adventure, RPG Game, Sports, Sci-Fi, etc. etc) and the 7ch Enhanced.

Now when I put it on the movie setting and on "Adventure" or "Drama" which is what i usually have it on for the type of movies I watch, I have to turn the receiver up pretty loud to get the "movie theater" effect as far as loudness goes. It just does not get that loud until I turn it up to either 2-5db.

But when I put it on the 7ch Enhanced setting, it seems as it gets louder than all hell - at around 30% or more it sounds like. Around -2db to 0db is a good volume for this setting.

So what I am asking is...anyone that has this particular receiver and/or a similar setup as mine, what setting(s) do you use on your receiever to watch movies and really get that huge BOOM or loudness? Would you just use the movie function and pick what type of sound you think you need, the 7ch Enhanced, or something completely different?

I apologize for sounding like a beginner in all of this, I mainly am. I am pretty good when it comes to listening to music on my computer, video, resolutions, computers all of that - but when it comes to surround sound I'm kind of in the haze.

Thanks in advance,

-Me


Also...with my Samsung bdp1600 I am having some lip sych issues with blu ray movies. Should I use the HDMI Auto and the lipsynch MS calibrator, or just the MS calibrator?

It just sucks because it seems like on certain movies, it's different and I have to change it each time I watch a different disc, and it's a huge hassle. Especially because the receiver display takes up the entire screen and you have to keep flipping it on and off.

Does anyone have any sort of solution this problem? Gosh-darn it would be so much easier with a knob or something!


But, yeah about my earlier question; what should I put the surround on when I watch movies? 7ch Enhanced? Even thought I have 5.1. Or One of the modes (adventure, sci fi, etc.) or what?

Thanks in advance,
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post #731 of 1951 Old 08-22-2009, 06:04 PM
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post #732 of 1951 Old 08-22-2009, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urlacher5454 View Post

Ok so I understand that when you press the info button you get the format shown on the receiver. What's annoying about that is if you choose a extended surround field to matrix your signal to 7.1 (like PLII Movie) while you're watching a movie it keeps switching between for example DolbyTrueHD and PLIIX movie. To me this is a little distracting. Is this how it's supposed to work?

Try setting the display scroll to "once". Otherwise just set it to show the input instead.
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post #733 of 1951 Old 08-22-2009, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chabaz View Post

But, yeah about my earlier question; what should I put the surround on when I watch movies? 7ch Enhanced? Even thought I have 5.1. Or One of the modes (adventure, sci fi, etc.) or what?

Thanks in advance,

What you should really do is just set it to "straight" and forget it. 7-ch enhanced is for 2-ch sources like an iPod. The movie surround modes are DSP modes which don't really have much use for most folks.

As for your volume levels, unless you have run YPAO and checked the resulting levels there's not much you can do. Reading the manual a few times might help.
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post #734 of 1951 Old 08-23-2009, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

Try setting the display scroll to "once". Otherwise just set it to show the input instead.

Any idea how to go about this...I just had the manual open and could not find it.

UPDATE: I figured this part out on my own...thanks.
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post #735 of 1951 Old 08-23-2009, 06:16 AM
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The 665 seems to be a low powered receiver. If you really feel the need to get that close to 0 dB, you risk clipping. Brief clipping is probably not a big problem. But you might be one of those people with no regard for your hearing and really like it loud.

In this case, at some point you might consider some more amplification.

In the mean time, I would just echo what rd said. Straight mode amd make sure you did auto setup with the mic to properly set channel levels.

"But this one goes up to 11"
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post #736 of 1951 Old 08-23-2009, 05:47 PM
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I heard that you should set all your speakers to small if you are using a subwoofer. Should this apply to the 665 and 765 as well? I ask because after running YPAO it sets all the speakers to large.
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post #737 of 1951 Old 08-23-2009, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urlacher5454 View Post

I heard that you should set all your speakers to small if you are using a subwoofer. Should this apply to the 665 and 765 as well? I ask because after running YPAO it sets all the speakers to large.

Purely a matter of choice. YPAO is simply a starting point. If your speakers qualify as large, use them that way. OTOH, you might get more out of your amp and speakers by limiting their low end a bit and letting the sub take the load. The 665 amp needs all the help it can get. The 765 amp is more capable.
But the final decision should be based on how it all sounds. My hunch is that you'll be happy setting the speakers to small with an 80Hz crossover unless they are large-large with 12" or bigger woofers. Try it with several different setups and see what you think.
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post #738 of 1951 Old 08-23-2009, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

Purely a matter of choice. YPAO is simply a starting point. If your speakers qualify as large, use them that way. OTOH, you might get more out of your amp and speakers by limiting their low end a bit and letting the sub take the load. The 665 amp needs all the help it can get. The 765 amp is more capable.
But the final decision should be based on how it all sounds. My hunch is that you'll be happy setting the speakers to small with an 80Hz crossover unless they are large-large with 12" or bigger woofers. Try it with several different setups and see what you think.

Ok so after YPAO is over you can go into manual setup and change some settings? I'll do that and set everything to small and use a crossover of 80 because the YPAO set it to 60. The speakers I am using are the Polk Monitor 60's for the fronts, Polk CS2 for the center, and Polk Monitor 40's for surrounds. Oh and just so you know I am using the 765 not the 665.
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post #739 of 1951 Old 08-23-2009, 06:51 PM
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I need some help here. My HTR-6160 blew up from lightning a few weeks ago I need a new receiver. I was looking at the RX-V665/765 or the HTR-6260. Are the 6260/665 comparable to the 6160? Would it matter which one I got, the 6260 or the 665? They appear to be the same except the 6260 is priced lower.
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post #740 of 1951 Old 08-23-2009, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sluwx04 View Post

I need some help here. My HTR-6160 blew up from lightning a few weeks ago I need a new receiver. I was looking at the RX-V665/765 or the HTR-6260. Are the 6260/665 comparable to the 6160? Would it matter which one I got, the 6260 or the 665? They appear to be the same except the 6260 is priced lower.

They are the same models. I believe they just sell them under different model numbers so stores can avoid price matching.
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post #741 of 1951 Old 08-23-2009, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sluwx04 View Post

I need some help here. My HTR-6160 blew up from lightning a few weeks ago I need a new receiver. I was looking at the RX-V665/765 or the HTR-6260. Are the 6260/665 comparable to the 6160? Would it matter which one I got, the 6260 or the 665? They appear to be the same except the 6260 is priced lower.

The 765 is the closest match to your 6110. The 665/6260 has a substantially lesser amp section.
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post #742 of 1951 Old 08-24-2009, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

The 765 is the closest match to your 6160. The 665/6260 has a substantially lesser amp section.

Ok, thanks for the help!
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post #743 of 1951 Old 08-24-2009, 07:43 AM
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The music button modes (2 channel enhanced and 7 channel enhanced) are loud on my system too. Wish the other modes had the same balls ;-)

My Polk 60s and Energy Take5's took a good month to break in and sound livelier.
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post #744 of 1951 Old 08-25-2009, 12:45 PM
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Should the subwoofer phase be set to Normal or Reverse? Those are my only 2 options.
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post #745 of 1951 Old 08-25-2009, 01:18 PM
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The quick answer is, set the switch whichever way is louder at your listening position with bass playing through both your front speakers and the sub.
If you are going to run any kind of EQ subsequently, the more accurate answer is, move the sub close to one of your main speakers, and with bass playing and you right up close to the speaker and sub, set the switch whichever way is louder.
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post #746 of 1951 Old 08-25-2009, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggunnell View Post

The quick answer is, set the switch whichever way is louder at your listening position with bass playing through both your front speakers and the sub.
If you are going to run any kind of EQ subsequently, the more accurate answer is, move the sub close to one of your main speakers, and with bass playing and you right up close to the speaker and sub, set the switch whichever way is louder.

Well the YPAO set it to reverse. But it also set my speakers to large when they are infact small.
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post #747 of 1951 Old 08-25-2009, 01:37 PM
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It's fine to override any automatic EQ's settings. Almost every system with a sub (you folks with true full range speakers know who you are ) should have all the speakers set to small with a single 80 to 120 Hz crossover to the sub.

I don't have time for a full discussion, but the classic technique is to phase match the sub and the main speakers at the crossover frequency -- because if you don't do this, you're going to get cancellation at the xo frequency.
What makes it tough is that most subs delay the sound through them by 10 to 15 msec. You often find auto EQ programs setting the sub distance 10 - 15 feet farther away than it actually is to compensate (that actually delays all the OTHER channels 10-15 msec to match the sub). The other problem is that the standing wave pattern in a room can confuse auto EQ. If you don't want to get a mic and measuring software and room treatments and/or a Velodyne SMS-1, set the settings the way recordings of classic orchestral instuments sound the most like they do in live performance
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post #748 of 1951 Old 08-25-2009, 02:23 PM
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Urlacher, slightly off topic, if you have not yet been bitten by the bass bug, read this short two page thread in our Subwoofer section -- some of the folks posting are among the most knowlegable about bass reproduction:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1171121
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post #749 of 1951 Old 08-25-2009, 05:40 PM
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I just picked up a 765!! I can't install it yet till I vent the Closet it is going in. I figure it needs to be done anyways so I might as well do it right, Is their a specific 765 thread or is all the Q's and Answers gonna be in this one. I made the call on this cause I liked how it passes through HDMI, that was a Big factor ,Mama dont like big sound when watching T.V and the Multi Ins and Pre-outs, this seemed to have the most flexabilty, too bad it did not do 2nd Video but that ok, I think I will be Happy with this
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post #750 of 1951 Old 08-26-2009, 06:34 AM
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I have small satellite rear speakers, two medium sized monitors, a centre channel and a sub (all PSB).

I've read a few things here about setting speakers to "small" and "large". Also, my sub has a crossover knob, what does crossover even do?

Good god I'm lost when it comes to this stuff, and the 765 manual is garbage.
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