**Offical** Yamaha RX-V665 AV Receiver thread - Page 43 - AVS Forum
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post #1261 of 1951 Old 02-28-2010, 07:40 AM
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Will the 665 upscale better than my 8300HDC cable box?
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post #1262 of 1951 Old 02-28-2010, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Clump View Post

I just learned that in order to have Dolby TrueHD you MUST set the HDMI sound on the receiver to amp only.

I had it all working fine, then no TrueHD. After a lot of messing around I realized I had the HDMI Sound set to Amp+TV. Changed it back to Amp only and all is well.

Can anyone else confirm this problem? Thanks.
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post #1263 of 1951 Old 02-28-2010, 02:13 PM
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this is true of all receiver because TVs can't decode TrueHD.

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post #1264 of 1951 Old 02-28-2010, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Michifan12 View Post

Can anyone else confirm this problem? Thanks.

Once you enable TV audio, the TV controls the HDMI handshake and calls for 2-ch PCM in most cases. It's not a "problem", it's the way it works. The TV is talking to the player, not the AVR.
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post #1265 of 1951 Old 02-28-2010, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ThisOneKidMongo View Post

Can anyone comment on how fast the HDMI switching generally is on this unit? Basically, I hate HDMI but am forced to use it for lossless audio. I'm planning on using HDMI only for my PS3, and then connecting my Wii and cable box via component (and outputting those two over component). Does anyone have their unit set up like this? Is there any stupid handshaking wait time when switching between component and HDMI sources? Thanks for any info.

I don't have any complaints about the switching, other than the occasional clicking sound when switching to the Tivo HD input (which I think may be the Tivo's fault rather than the receiver's).

I have my Wii connected via component as well, but I have the receiver convert the video to HDMI.

The Wii, Tivo, and DVD player all output to the TV via the same HDMI connection from the receiver.
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post #1266 of 1951 Old 02-28-2010, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by nkme View Post

I have an HDMI connection to my TV. When I try to switch to my Wii or my camcorder connected to the analog AV inputs I get sound but no video. Also, when I click the setup button on the remote I can't get the setup screen to display.

My three other HDMI input sources (xbox, ps3, and cable) all work fine.

Any ideas how to fix this???

Install the latest firmware version from Yamaha and then you can associate any of the analog video inputs with the Aux analog audio input. To install the firmware you will need to be able to burn a CD and then connect an external CD or DVD player via optical (TOSLINK) or coax that can play an audio CD; for some reason it can't do it via HDMI. I used an old CD player I had laying around and it worked fine.

Edit: I had to do this to get my Wii working because it has component video with RCA analog audio for A/V output.
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post #1267 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

All I can tell you is that the 665 doesn't lie, it's telling you what it's receiving.

thanks guys for your help--tried another bluray player today and all was fine--the front panel on the 665 said DTS MASTER AUDIO --this is weird so something is going wrong inside my bd35--saves taking the reciever in to be checked--has anyone else had a issue like this with the bd35 --thanks all that helped

I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken
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post #1268 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by denass View Post

thanks guys for your help--tried another bluray player today and all was fine--the front panel on the 665 said DTS MASTER AUDIO --this is weird so something is going wrong inside my bd35--saves taking the reciever in to be checked--has anyone else had a issue like this with the bd35 --thanks all that helped

Maybe there was some obscure setting in the bd35 that was causing it to do some kind of intermediate decoding? Glad to hear you were able to narrow it down.
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post #1269 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 11:10 AM
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How is your oppo BDP-83 cabled to the 765, are you using HDMI ?? I am new to the home theater, and have a lot of experience in computers but not audio. The manual confuses me to no end, where the BDP-83 manual indicates the receiver that supports audio input over HDMI is required. And when you go to the receiver manual, I can't find if that is the case or not. I have the BDP-83 cabled to HDMI 1 of the receiver and the HDMI output going to my Samsung HD TV. I have BDP-83 set for Bitstream and all seems well but am I getting all the benefits out of that receiver assuming there may be a better way of cabling it in.
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post #1270 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by djgall1940 View Post

how is your oppo bdp-83 cabled to the 765, are you using HDMI ??

Not sure who you are addressing, but why would anyone use anything other than HDMI? You can use the dedicated stereo analog connects for CDs, but the benefit is very small.
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post #1271 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 12:59 PM
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Thanks, for responding so quickly, I just wast not sure the receiver handled audio input over HDMI as required by the oppo BDPP-83. Being new to this and reading both the Oppo manual and the Yamaha manual and poring through this forum you tend to second guess your self on the best way of doing things.
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post #1272 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 02:20 PM
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Hi.. I was directed to this forum by GreyWolf over at the DirecTV forum.

I'm having a problem with my 665 and sound Skipping/Jumping. It happens going in and out of commercials and even during programs. The sound seems to stop or "bump" and I see the display on the AVR flash for a second. I've used the surround decode setting, and the Direct setting and I seem to have the same problem.

I've called Yamaha and they say the issue is the "source" or DirecTV. However, nobody else over at the DTV forum seems to have the problem. I do not notice any skipping using a Blue Ray.

Any suggestions for me? I have the DTV in HDMI #1, and the BlueRay in HDMI #2? I have an older yamaha and when I used the digital audio connection (because of no HDMI out) I didn't have any problems.

Thanks..Chris
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post #1273 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chicagoish View Post

Hi.. I was directed to this forum by GreyWolf over at the DirecTV forum.

I'm having a problem with my 665 and sound Skipping/Jumping. It happens going in and out of commercials and even during programs. The sound seems to stop or "bump" and I see the display on the AVR flash for a second. I've used the surround decode setting, and the Direct setting and I seem to have the same problem.

I've called Yamaha and they say the issue is the "source" or DirecTV. However, nobody else over at the DTV forum seems to have the problem. I do not notice any skipping using a Blue Ray.

Any suggestions for me? I have the DTV in HDMI #1, and the BlueRay in HDMI #2? I have an older yamaha and when I used the digital audio connection (because of no HDMI out) I didn't have any problems.

Thanks..Chris

Sounds like a HDMI handshake, or a "dropout", and yes it's likely the source causing it. Although you'd expect a handshake to also cause an interruption in the video, so it could just be a audio dropout. Try a different HDMI cable. Or, use optical/coax for the audio instead. I'm sure if you call DirecTV, you'll get a run-around. Audio dropouts are not uncommon with either satellite service. Some model receivers are more prone than others. I've seen dropouts on Dish for years, but only via HDMI.
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post #1274 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

Sounds like a HDMI handshake, or a "dropout", and yes it's likely the source causing it. Although you'd expect a handshake to also cause an interruption in the video, so it could just be a audio dropout. Try a different HDMI cable. Or, use optical/coax for the audio instead. I'm sure if you call DirecTV, you'll get a run-around. Audio dropouts are not uncommon with either satellite service. Some model receivers are more prone than others. I've seen dropouts on Dish for years, but only via HDMI.

Thanks! What's the best way to do the Optical Audio yet keep the HDMI for the Video? Will it require anything besides pressing HDMI #2 when I want to view DirecTV? Now DTV is in HDMI #2 and that's all I press on the AVR remote. How will the AVR associate the Optical Sound with the HDMI#2 button?

Also.. Will I lose any sound "quality" doing it this way. I didn't mind with my older Yamaha because it didn't have an HDIM OUT, but with this one, I was hoping to use all the features?
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post #1275 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by chicagoish View Post

Thanks! What's the best way to do the Optical Audio yet keep the HDMI for the Video? Will it require anything besides pressing HDMI #2 when I want to view DirecTV? Now DTV is in HDMI #2 and that's all I press on the AVR remote. How will the AVR associate the Optical Sound with the HDMI#2 button?

Also.. Will I lose any sound "quality" doing it this way. I didn't mind with my older Yamaha because it didn't have an HDIM OUT, but with this one, I was hoping to use all the features?

Sat/cable audio is the same quality over HDMI or optical. If the sat receiver doesn't have a setting to disable HDMI audio, you'll prolly need to use one of the other empty optical inputs, then assign that HDMI video to the audio input. This requires the latest firmware, and instructions are available at the Yamaha site.
Or, you can use component video out from the DTV box and use one of the inputs that has optical also. But first I'd at least talk to DTV about the dropouts.
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post #1276 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

Sat/cable audio is the same quality over HDMI or optical. If the sat receiver doesn't have a setting to disable HDMI audio, you'll prolly need to use one of the other empty optical inputs, then assign that HDMI video to the audio input. This requires the latest firmware, and instructions are available at the Yamaha site.
Or, you can use component video out from the DTV box and use one of the inputs that has optical also. But first I'd at least talk to DTV about the dropouts.

Thanks. again.. From my understanding, the DTV box is always "HOT" for all outputs, so I can't disable the sound of the HDMI.

Where/How do I get a firmware upgrade? Is that from the Yamaha site?

Lastly, from all the many posts I read on the DirecTV forums, calling DTV will be of little use. Most of the time the solutions are found from the user to user interface of the DTV forums, who, alas, directed me here.
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post #1277 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by chicagoish View Post

Thanks. again.. From my understanding, the DTV box is always "HOT" for all outputs, so I can't disable the sound of the HDMI.

Where/How do I get a firmware upgrade? Is that from the Yamaha site?

Lastly, from all the many posts I read on the DirecTV forums, calling DTV will be of little use. Most of the time the solutions are found from the user to user interface of the DTV forums, who, alas, directed me here.

http://www.yamaha.com/yec/products/p...DETYP=RELATION

1st you want to check your current FW revision. Instructions on how to do that are included in the instructions for the update. You want "K032". Instructions are also there ("owner's manual addendum") for performing the assignment of HDMI video to an audio input.

If don't have the latest firmware already and you're not able to do the firmware update, consider just using component video with optical. I'd suggest passing component to the TV AS component video to avoid processing in the AVR.

Or, call DTV and tell them you want a receiver that doesn't have the dropout feature.
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post #1278 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 05:02 PM
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Thanks again.. I'm sort of married to the DTV receiver/DVR because I have an external Harddrive attached, and would lose all the programming with a different receiver.

What I am not married to is the Yamaha receiver, as I can return it. Others on DTV don't have issues with their receivers and the DTV box. Just seems like it's the 665. I had the 465 for a week and it worked fine, but realized it didn't have an A/B switch anylong, so I had to go to the 7.1 for the "ZONE B."

However, I think I'll find another unit instead of messing with the DTV stuff.

Any suggestions on a nice 5.1 unit with and A/B switch or a different 7.1 with a ZONE B?
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post #1279 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagoish View Post

Thanks again.. I'm sort of married to the DTV receiver/DVR because I have an external Harddrive attached, and would lose all the programming with a different receiver.

What I am not married to is the Yamaha receiver, as I can return it. Others on DTV don't have issues with their receivers and the DTV box. Just seems like it's the 665. I had the 465 for a week and it worked fine, but realized it didn't have an A/B switch anylong, so I had to go to the 7.1 for the "ZONE B."

However, I think I'll find another unit instead of messing with the DTV stuff.

Any suggestions on a nice 5.1 unit with and A/B switch or a different 7.1 with a ZONE B?

I had a similiar problem and also thought it was the 665. I rebooted my cable box and it went away. I do think it's your source and not the receiver.
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post #1280 of 1951 Old 03-01-2010, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by KYLE B View Post

I had a similiar problem and also thought it was the 665. I rebooted my cable box and it went away. I do think it's your source and not the receiver.

Kyle..

I'll give that a shot.. Just a note.. I ran optical Digital to AV1, and then ran the HDMI straight from DTV to the TV. So I separated sound and Video...

I had the same issue with a program I recorded.. The sound skips at the same spot using both HDMI sound, and Optical Digital. I didn't have this problem with the 465, but I need to push a pair of remote speakers in the Sun Room, so I needed ZONE "B" since the 465 doesn't have an A/B switch.
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post #1281 of 1951 Old 03-02-2010, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagoish View Post

Kyle..

I'll give that a shot.. Just a note.. I ran optical Digital to AV1, and then ran the HDMI straight from DTV to the TV. So I separated sound and Video...

I had the same issue with a program I recorded.. The sound skips at the same spot using both HDMI sound, and Optical Digital. I didn't have this problem with the 465, but I need to push a pair of remote speakers in the Sun Room, so I needed ZONE "B" since the 465 doesn't have an A/B switch.

It sounds like the DTV DVR box cannot even record the sound properly. Does the sound play OK for live viewing? With the 665 wired out of the loop with the HDMI going straight to the TV It looks more and more like a bad box.

Ray
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post #1282 of 1951 Old 03-02-2010, 07:47 AM
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I've heard TOSLINK skip in many different setups.
If possible switch to an Orange digital out RCA cable.
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post #1283 of 1951 Old 03-02-2010, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Rbuchina View Post

It sounds like the DTV DVR box cannot even record the sound properly. Does the sound play OK for live viewing? With the 665 wired out of the loop with the HDMI going straight to the TV It looks more and more like a bad box.

Ray

That's my next step.. Going right from the DTV box to the TV. I'm also planning to bring up my old Yamaha 363, and see if it happens there.... It's not just happening on one recorded spot on the DVR. He happens during LIVE broadcasts as well, and its ONLY the Audio. I know that a DVR constantly writes to the HD, so I realize that even Live broadcasts can be effected by the DVR...

Defdog99, the only outs on the back of my DTV box are HDMI, Optical Digital or Componant. No regular digital.
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post #1284 of 1951 Old 03-02-2010, 11:48 AM
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I just bought this receiver about 3 weeks ago. I've read through all the posts on here so far, so thanks to everyone that has provided so much great information! I upgraded from an older Sony HTIB, so this is a big improvement for me. My living room is about 15x20 and while I know people have said that the power is slightly lacking, I have to say that I think it does really well in my setup. Like I said, I just bought it and it came with a manual addendum that mentions assignability, so I'm guessing it has the latest firmware; however, I'm just running 4 HDMI sources, so I don't think it's something I need.

I do have a question though, and I haven't seen anyone else mention it. I'm using this receiver with a set of Polk Audio RM6750 5.1 speakers. I got all the wiring done and ran the YPAO with the "Flat" EQ. It sounded okay, but I wanted play with some of the settings. I got it sounding a little better, but I wasn't thrilled with the bass and I also wanted to see how it would sound running the YPAO with the "Natural" EQ. I did this and when it finished, I got the warning that my front right and center speakers were out of phase. I checked the troubleshooting section of the manual and it said that this sometimes shows, even when the speakers are not out of phase. I ran it again to see if it was some kind of fluke, and that time my front left, right, and center speakers were "out of phase". I checked the wiring and it was fine. I wasn't crazy about this sound either. I checked my sub and since I had run the YPAO with the level just under halfway, I decided to put it right at halfway and I ran the YPAO again using the "Flat" EQ. It still shows the front 3 speakers as "out of phase". I slightly bumped up the sub's volume in the receiver's settings. This time I was really happy with the sound. I made sure all speakers were set to "small" and I checked the crossover setting. YPAO set the crossover to 80Hz, but since the lower end of the frequency response for my speakers is 100Hz, I set the crossover to 100Hz.

Here are some questions I have:

1. I know the manual says that sometimes speakers can show that they are "out of phase" even when they are not. Has anyone else had this happen, and am I running the risk of hurting anything if I just leave it how it is? As I said, I checked the wiring and everything seems fine. It also sounds really good right now.

2. Should the subwoofer setting be set to "SWFR" or "Both"? I have it set to "SWFR" right now. I want to make sure that all frequencies below 100Hz are sent to the sub (hence the 100Hz crossover setting).

3. Speaking of crossovers, YPAO set mine to 80Hz. I understand that that's a starting point. According to the manual for my speakers, the frequency range is 100Hz to 24kHz, and the sub's frequency range is 40Hz to 200Hz. How much difference is there between setting it at 80Hz or 100Hz, and when would I notice that difference?

Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to get it all out after reading 43 pages of posts!

Thanks!
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post #1285 of 1951 Old 03-02-2010, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdavid570 View Post

...Speaking of crossovers, YPAO set mine to 80Hz. I understand that that's a starting point. According to the manual for my speakers, the frequency range is 100Hz to 24kHz, and the sub's frequency range is 40Hz to 200Hz. How much difference is there between setting it at 80Hz or 100Hz, and when would I notice that difference?

The manual for the RM6750 system suggests a crossover of 120Hz. And even that may be a bit low because according to the specs they drop off by 3dB at 135Hz (the 100Hz number in the spec doesn't mean much).

So I don't think the crossover should be lower than 120Hz, and you could try the next higher value as well and compare it to 120. If you use 80Hz, there will be a big hole in your frequency response between 80 and roughly 120. And upgrading that sub would be money well spent.
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post #1286 of 1951 Old 03-02-2010, 12:44 PM
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I'll try 120Hz tonight and see what happens. All in all, I'm happy so far, but I've only had it for a short time now and I'd like to get the most out of it. Initially I thought the dialogue sounded "boxy" and almost slightly distant. After reading some other threads/forums I was worried that the center speaker had a blown tweeter, but I don't think that's the case. Anyway, it sounds much better now.

Thanks!
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post #1287 of 1951 Old 03-02-2010, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdavid570 View Post

Here are some questions I have:

1. I know the manual says that sometimes speakers can show that they are "out of phase" even when they are not. Has anyone else had this happen, and am I running the risk of hurting anything if I just leave it how it is? As I said, I checked the wiring and everything seems fine. It also sounds really good right now.

A common issue, ignore it if you're sure they are corrected right. AVRs do not check electrical phasing, but acoustic phasing.
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2. Should the subwoofer setting be set to "SWFR" or "Both"? I have it set to "SWFR" right now. I want to make sure that all frequencies below 100Hz are sent to the sub (hence the 100Hz crossover setting).

You are correct. "both" means that re-directed LF from other channels will be sent to the fronts AND sub, and is rarely a good choice.
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3. Speaking of crossovers, YPAO set mine to 80Hz. I understand that that's a starting point. According to the manual for my speakers, the frequency range is 100Hz to 24kHz, and the sub's frequency range is 40Hz to 200Hz. How much difference is there between setting it at 80Hz or 100Hz, and when would I notice that difference?

Strictly whatever sounds best. Audio above 80Hz is more easily localized by human hearing. YPAO tends to be a little off on XO settings. But your speakers are rated for anechoic rooms, which yours is not. Placement and room conditions change the response curves drastically.
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post #1288 of 1951 Old 03-02-2010, 01:13 PM
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Thanks for your response! I'll play with the crossover settings tonight to see what happens!
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post #1289 of 1951 Old 03-02-2010, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by markdavid570 View Post

Thanks for your response! I'll play with the crossover settings tonight to see what happens!

Expect to find that the higher the XO point, the more you localize the bass to the sub. So it's a trade-off between that and having a better response curve over-all. There's no right or wrong setting. Also consider moving the sub about the room if possible to find the best response. With the higher XO point, you'll prolly prefer it in front.
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post #1290 of 1951 Old 03-02-2010, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by chicagoish View Post

That's my next step.. Going right from the DTV box to the TV. I'm also planning to bring up my old Yamaha 363, and see if it happens there.... It's not just happening on one recorded spot on the DVR. He happens during LIVE broadcasts as well, and its ONLY the Audio. I know that a DVR constantly writes to the HD, so I realize that even Live broadcasts can be effected by the DVR...

Defdog99, the only outs on the back of my DTV box are HDMI, Optical Digital or Componant. No regular digital.

Well, I guess I have to eat some Crow.. I ran the HDMI straight to the TV, and it skipped at the same spot. So.. I'm wondering if my External HD is starting to have issues. It's only the sound which is what threw me off, the picture is fine... It just started this issue and I just got the new Yamaha, so that's why I came to that conclusion. Could the DTV box be starting to go? or, as I suspect the external HardDrive? I rebooted the system so I'll see how Live Programming does go forward.
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