**Offical** Yamaha RX-V665 AV Receiver thread - Page 66 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #1951 of 1984 Old 07-06-2014, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobLee View Post
Note that in most BD players, setting downmix to off will indeed allow the AVR to decode the HD audio, but may interfere with any audio overlay when you are watching BD extras or PIP (if you see the director talking but can't hear, go back into the BD player and turn on downmix)... as if life wasn't already too complicated
It does not allow me to turn Downmix to "Off" ...only "Stereo" or "Surround."

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post #1952 of 1984 Old 11-16-2014, 09:44 PM
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Cabuzzi bought a new AVR to solve this. I have the same problem but don't want to but a new AVR. Any advice?
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Originally Posted by cabuzzi View Post
Cool to see this thread is still going. I'm posting here because my AVR is beginning a new life as a game center receiver for my kids, but I've run into some problems.

So far, I have the following hooked up to it:

- PC via HDMI1
- Wii via component and optical on AV1 (using a PCM converter)
- Dreamcast via composite (AV5)
- GameCube via composite (AV6)
- Nintendo N64 via composite (front aux, for now)
- NES via composite (front aux, for now)

The NES and N64 won't output video... just audio. I've tried them on different inputs (ice AV5 and AV6), but it's the same result.

Ironically, the GameCube and N64 use the exact same connector, but the GC works and the N64 doesn't.

Any tips? I'm considering getting some sort of AV switch, as I have too many inputs for the V665's composite inputs to handle, so maybe something like that could be factored into a solution...
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post #1953 of 1984 Old 11-16-2014, 10:58 PM
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After digging in a bit I think it is a 240/ 480 issue. It upconverts 480 in Gamecube and dreamcast to HDMI (quite well actually) but will not do the 240 of the older systems. Too bad.
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post #1954 of 1984 Old 01-11-2015, 08:11 PM
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Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I need some help and tips!

I decided to get rid of my 5.1 setup, just wasn't working out. So I'm going to use the V665 as a 2.1 receiver now. I have a pair of Klipsh R-15's I'm using and a Klipsh sub. I ran it through YPAO, and it set the front to Large, the LFE to sub only, 60hz for the crossover. I use an Xbox One as my only source, in the audio settings, I changed it to Stereo Uncompressed.

I instantly noticed I had no sub.

So to fix that I changed the LFE/bass out to "both" and the crossover to 80hz.


My question is, what is the proper way to get the most out of my 2.1 setup? So I'm not lacking any sound and bass.
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post #1955 of 1984 Old 01-12-2015, 09:20 AM
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from what I understand you need to set the speakers to small, even though Yamaha sets most speakers to large. So for the sub to work with your speakers properly, set speakers to small, crossover 80,90 or 100(experiment)...and sub lfe to sub only... I don't know to much about this stuff though, maybe someone with more experience can chime in... good luck
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post #1956 of 1984 Old 01-12-2015, 11:05 AM
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^ Agreed. And then adjust the sub level as needed to get the right amount of bass. You might have to adjust volume on the sub itself if the level trim on the receiver doesn't have enough range. And you don't want the receiver level maxed out as then you have no additional adjustment, plus if it's a large positive value there's more chance of the signal clipping at very high volumes (but I wouldn't worry about that at any reasonable volume).
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post #1957 of 1984 Old 01-12-2015, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
^ Agreed. And then adjust the sub level as needed to get the right amount of bass. You might have to adjust volume on the sub itself if the level trim on the receiver doesn't have enough range. And you don't want the receiver level maxed out as then you have no additional adjustment, plus if it's a large positive value there's more chance of the signal clipping at very high volumes (but I wouldn't worry about that at any reasonable volume).
So will my bookshelf speakers receive any bass this way? I also used the PEQ of flat, which I left enabled. Hopefully changing the speaker size to small won't affect that.
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post #1958 of 1984 Old 01-12-2015, 01:54 PM
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^ Changing the speaker size to small won't change the overall sound that you get from YPAO Flat, except that setting the subwoofer level becomes more important now that the sub is playing more of the bass.

The crossover is not a brick wall filter where the sub plays everything below and the main speakers play everything above. It's a gradual thing. So even with a crossover of 80 or 100Hz the fronts are playing some of the bass well below that frequency. 60Hz crossover seems too low for those bookshelves.
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post #1959 of 1984 Old 01-12-2015, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
^ Changing the speaker size to small won't change the overall sound that you get from YPAO Flat, except that setting the subwoofer level becomes more important now that the sub is playing more of the bass.

The crossover is not a brick wall filter where the sub plays everything below and the main speakers play everything above. It's a gradual thing. So even with a crossover of 80 or 100Hz the fronts are playing some of the bass well below that frequency. 60Hz crossover seems too low for those bookshelves.
Thanks, I was going by the YPAO settings and the sheet specs of the speakers, which are a little confusing. It says:

62Hz - 24kHz +/- 3dB

LOW FREQUENCY EXTENSION: 54Hz

I'll leave it on 80hz because anything above is a hit and miss with my sub placement.
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post #1960 of 1984 Old 01-20-2015, 11:44 PM
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Greetings all, I am thinking of purchasing either a Yamaha RX-V663 or RX-V665 to use as a HDMI input pre-amp between a Samsung BD-F5700 Blu-ray player and a Yamaha HTR-5760 7.1 receiver for a bi-amped 3.1 stereo plus center channel set-up.

I was using the front left and right and the surround RCA inputs for the stereo treble and woofer channels from the electronic crossover and plan on using the rear surround channels for the center channel. This is my main music setup I am adding a center channel to for movie watching.

Both command the same prices on ebay, so, which would be preferable? Does the newer 665 have anything the 663 doesn't that might be desirable? I do not need 3D, blue-tooth, sirrius radio or anything like that.

Eventually, I will find a HDMI to 7.1 RCA audio out converter to take over and use the new receiver for another stereo system. The 663 has 95 watts @ 20 Hz to 20 kHz, 0.06% THD, 8 Ω and the 665 has 90 watts @ 1kHz, 0.9% THD, 8 Ω. I assume the 663 is the better amp used as a stereo devise. Any thing wrong with using the 663 over the 665?

Many thanks.

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post #1961 of 1984 Old 01-21-2015, 08:49 AM
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The 663 definitely has a better amp than the 665. The 665 was a real cost cutting exercise for Yamaha, but I don't know if that affects the quality of the pre-outs.
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post #1962 of 1984 Old 01-21-2015, 11:55 AM
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Thanks kriktsemaj99, so barring any other reason unknown to me of why the 663 would be inferior to the 665, I will sic my son on an ebay mission to get one.

So, for an apples to apples comparison how may watts would the 665 put out if it was rated @ 20 Hz to 20 kHz, 0.06% THD, 8 Ω?

I will use the BD player to play CDs, retiring the Sony Discman with line outputs, and the only other inputs is direcTV HDMI and my laptop hooked up through a Behringer UCA222 D/A converter to bypass the laptops soundcard for Youtube videos.

I assume that the 663's microphone and audio delay will work with the 7.1 RCA outputs?

Here is a link to my HDMI thread, I am definitely an audio/video newb/idiot.

Please help pick HDMI to 5.1 channel RCA extractor
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post #1963 of 1984 Old 01-21-2015, 12:50 PM
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Yes, the pre-outs have been through all DSP processing including audio delay etc. As for power, if you're not playing very loud it's sort of a non-issue. I do know that the 665 is down on power because Yamaha switched from discrete amps to an integrated amp (basically one big chip containing all the power amps). That was unexpected because the 6xx had always used discrete amps in the past.

But frankly I would just use the 663. Why bother going to the trouble of having the pre-outs drive the analog inputs of another receiver?
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post #1964 of 1984 Old 01-21-2015, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
But frankly I would just use the 663. Why bother going to the trouble of having the pre-outs drive the analog inputs of another receiver?
I am bi-amping a pair of Altec speakers, using the front left and right channels for the woofers and the surround left and right for the treble horns. I am also going to bi-amp another altec speaker for the center channel. I will use the 663 as a pre/pro and the second receiver as a 6 channel power amp only.

An 8 channel HDMI extractor would also work, but of the 5 or so I have found, they all have absolutely NO user feedback, so I am leery of purchasing one to only find out that it doesn't work, or works poorly. At least I know the 663 will work and I need another amp for other stereo setups anyway if I eventually find an extractor that works.

Thanks

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post #1965 of 1984 Old 02-21-2015, 07:38 PM
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Headphones

Anyone try any 250-Ohm Beyerdynamic headphones plugged into the receiver?
Or recommend any other headphones that will work well plugged directly into the headphone jack?

Yamaha RX-V671 receiver
Infinity Beta 5.1

Vizio D58U-D3 (Costco) TV
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post #1966 of 1984 Old 04-27-2015, 11:13 AM
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Hooked the mic up and ran the auto calibration; I must say I do not like the settings. The front speakers were all set to large, the subwoofer was way too low were you could barely hear them (and I have two big martysubs) and now I'm back to manually adjusting all the speakers.
I will say the biggest difference in all the settings and adjustments has been switching the Adaptive DRC to auto. Why in the world was that off? I've been listening to movies for the last year with DRC to off and always struggling with dialogue. Now with it to Auto, dialogue went from horrible to almost as good as the movie theater. I always thought it was my quality of speakers, but nope, it was the DRC turned off.

Question: What scene type do you use for movies? The surround decoder again doesn't really use my subwoofers all that much. I usually switch to Sci-Fi scene for BD watching.

Also, what should the "maximum volume" be set at?

Last edited by Ryanweather; 04-27-2015 at 11:43 AM.
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post #1967 of 1984 Old 04-27-2015, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryanweather View Post
Hooked the mic up and ran the auto calibration; I must say I do not like the settings. The front speakers were all set to large, the subwoofer was way too low were you could barely hear them (and I have two big martysubs) and now I'm back to manually adjusting all the speakers.
I will say the biggest difference in all the settings and adjustments has been switching the Adaptive DRC to auto. Why in the world was that off? I've been listening to movies for the last year with DRC to off and always struggling with dialogue. Now with it to Auto, dialogue went from horrible to almost as good as the movie theater. I always thought it was my quality of speakers, but nope, it was the DRC turned off.

Question: What scene type do you use for movies? The surround decoder again doesn't really use my subwoofers all that much. I usually switch to Sci-Fi scene for BD watching.

Also, what should the "maximum volume" be set at?
You're confusing "SCENE" setup with DSP modes. SCENE setup is for the four SCENE buttons on the remote and amp. DSP modes like "Sci-Fi" are just sound processing modes, which incidentally can be assigned to a SCENE button.

After you run YPAO, if you want to adjust channel level you can do so in manual mode. Manual mode will already have the YPAO settings loaded when you open that up. There you can adjust them. Set the subs own level control so that YPAO winds up with the sub channel close to "0". Then you can use the manual setup, or the sub's own level knob, to adjust to taste.

Consult the manual for specifics on the Dynamic DRC functions. Off is what most people use. The effect it has depends on the global volume setting. The louder you listen the less it does.

Consult the manual for the "maximum volume" setting. That's an option to limit the amp's max volume. One reason to do that would be if you have teenagers using the amp and you want to limit how loud they can play it. Otherwise there's no reason not to leave it at max.
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post #1968 of 1984 Old 04-27-2015, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
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You're confusing "SCENE" setup with DSP modes. SCENE setup is for the four SCENE buttons on the remote and amp. DSP modes like "Sci-Fi" are just sound processing modes, which incidentally can be assigned to a SCENE button.

After you run YPAO, if you want to adjust channel level you can do so in manual mode. Manual mode will already have the YPAO settings loaded when you open that up. There you can adjust them. Set the subs own level control so that YPAO winds up with the sub channel close to "0". Then you can use the manual setup, or the sub's own level knob, to adjust to taste.

Consult the manual for specifics on the Dynamic DRC functions. Off is what most people use. The effect it has depends on the global volume setting. The louder you listen the less it does.

Consult the manual for the "maximum volume" setting. That's an option to limit the amp's max volume. One reason to do that would be if you have teenagers using the amp and you want to limit how loud they can play it. Otherwise there's no reason not to leave it at max.
I've read the manual and I'm still a bit confused; perhaps because the terminology is a bit foreign to me. That's interesting most people turn DRC off, it just seems like it's been such a big improvement to my sound.

Should I try tweaking the PEQ or GEQ settings? If so, what are the best settings for the front channel adjustments? I like it loud, but I also like to hear the dialogue loud and clear- just like the movie theater. I have a 1500 cuft room, acoustical panels, sound dead front wall, AT screen, 5.2 system.

Thank you!
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post #1969 of 1984 Old 04-27-2015, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanweather View Post
I've read the manual and I'm still a bit confused; perhaps because the terminology is a bit foreign to me. That's interesting most people turn DRC off, it just seems like it's been such a big improvement to my sound.

Should I try tweaking the PEQ or GEQ settings? If so, what are the best settings for the front channel adjustments? I like it loud, but I also like to hear the dialogue loud and clear- just like the movie theater. I have a 1500 cuft room, acoustical panels, sound dead front wall, AT screen, 5.2 system.

Thank you!
On the 665 you can't do anything with the PEQ settings, other than choosing "flat", "front" or "natural" curves.
DRC essentially just makes things louder at lower volume settings. Use it if you like it.
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post #1970 of 1984 Old 04-30-2015, 10:02 AM
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Update: Finally got a Yamaha RX-V663 AV Receiver hooked up in the chain. BluRay Player hooked up to HDMI in #1 and Direct TV into #2 . Pre-outs front left and right into the Peavey 215EQ then into the Behringer CX2310 crossover, low frequency to the Yamaha HTR-5760 receiver's front left and right component input and the highs into the left and right surround. The center channel from the RX-V663 pre out directly into the 5760's center input and the 663's LFE into the Soundcraftsmen's SP4000 pre-amp and then to the Crown DC300A.


Amazingly it all works. I have only watched one DVD and one music CD, and without much time to tweak the settings and barely able to us the Yamaha's menu settings, things sound pretty good. DVDs voices are intelligible and the music and special effects are under control. Music CDs sound OK and are what I am most worried about getting right.


Listening to Return to Forever "Romantic Warrior" and volume on the 633 pre-amp receiver is at -5.0db and the 5760 power amp receiver is at 0.0db. Don't have my DB meter on hand, but it is pretty loud.


One odd thing is that in order to get the TV to handshake with the DirecTV box, I have to have the Samsung BR player turned on even though I have input on the 633 set to the DirecTV box.


Now to see if I can turn off the awful announcers blabbering during a Nascar race and just listen to the racetrack soundtrack it will all be worth it.
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post #1971 of 1984 Old 10-12-2015, 03:44 PM
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Why does YPAO set my fronts to "large" when I have two martysubs. Does the crossover I set to 120hz have any effect on "large" speakers? Yet another area I'm confused by, don't understand the terms "large" and "small.". Normally I hear your speakers should be set to small when you have a subwoofer, and I have 3!
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post #1972 of 1984 Old 10-13-2015, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanweather View Post
Why does YPAO set my fronts to "large" when I have two martysubs. Does the crossover I set to 120hz have any effect on "large" speakers? Yet another area I'm confused by, don't understand the terms "large" and "small.". Normally I hear your speakers should be set to small when you have a subwoofer, and I have 3!

"Large" means bass management (i.e. the redirection of low bass from main speakers to the subs) is not used. "Small" means bass management is used.

YPAO decides to set speakers to Large when it thinks they play low enough that the sub is not needed (in this case the sub is only used for a dedicated LFE track, e.g. the .1 in 5.1). However, it's commonly accepted that all speakers should be set to Small, and it's just a matter of setting a crossover that's appropriate for your system.

Since the crossover is ignored for speakers set to Large, you should manually set them to Small. Then you might have to adjust the sub level (either in the receiver or on the back of the sub) to get the amount of bass you want.
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post #1973 of 1984 Old 11-27-2015, 10:59 PM
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Guys I just registered to see if any of you know the answer to this question:

I'd like to put some speakers in my kitchen, just to get good sound while I'm cooking/hanging out there. The locations are ~50ft of wire from the receiver in the living room, and I already have a pair of Polk bookshelf speakers I'm going to use, and the cable (14AWG copper) run, I'm just having trouble figuring our the best way to wire them up to the receiver. I could do Zone2, but then I'm limited to analogue and all my sources are digital. If I hook them up as SBL/R, I get sound out in 7ch Stereo, but it's waaay too low and modified. Since I'm really only concerned with music coming from these speakers, I'd like them to essentially mirror my front L/R speakers. Is there any way to do this? I do happen to have an extra old Yamaha amp if that would help (maybe preamp out all the way there?).

Cheers, thanks for the help!
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post #1974 of 1984 Old 11-27-2015, 11:56 PM
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It seems like I can't edit posts or I would... So by setting SBL/R to Large, using 7ch Stereo and messing with the volume by setting all the other speakers to practically minimum and SBL/R to maximum, I'm getting OK sound out of them, but it still seems quite "unnatural" for music. Any other input is appreciated.
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post #1975 of 1984 Old 11-29-2015, 08:58 AM
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@adriangb : You should not use the surround channels for what you're trying to do, as you're only hearing decoded surround channels (hence the unnatural sound).

Zone2 is provided for exactly what you're trying to do, which is add a set of stereo speakers to a second location for listening to music.

I'm not sure what your analog/digital concern is, as all speakers are inherently analog devices (they're just electromagnets connected to a cone on the side of a box!), and part of the job of the A/V receiver is to convert various input types to amplified analog speaker signals. If you get noise from interference, use thicker gauge wire.
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post #1976 of 1984 Old 11-29-2015, 10:37 AM
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The issue is that digital sources (HDMI, optical, etc.) will not be played over Zone2. According to the manual: "Only analog signal can be sent to Zone2. If you want to output the sound from Zone2, connect an external component
to AV5-6 or AUDIO1-2 by analog connection. For example, if you want to output sound from an HDMI DVD player
in Zone2, you must connect the component to this unit by both HDMI and analog connections"
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post #1977 of 1984 Old 11-30-2015, 09:38 AM
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Bummer. Do the sources you want to hear sound from have analog outputs that you can connect to analog inputs of the receiver, per those instructions?

The RX-V665 has bi-wire outputs. I wonder if they can be used to drive two pairs of speakers from the front L/R outputs, or if the bi-wire is only for HF/LF splitting?
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post #1978 of 1984 Old 11-30-2015, 09:42 AM
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Bummer. Do the sources you want to hear sound from have analog outputs that you can connect to analog inputs of the receiver, per those instructions?

The RX-V665 has bi-wire outputs. I wonder if they can be used to drive two pairs of speakers from the front L/R outputs, or if the bi-wire is only for HF/LF splitting?

Unfortunately, yes they're all HDMI. And the bi-amp indeed does HF/LF I belive.
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post #1979 of 1984 Old 11-30-2015, 09:55 AM
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Only options I can think of then are:

1.Route your HDMI devices to an HDMI TV first, then run both digital and analog TV audio outputs to respective inputs on the receiver. This assumes that the TV can produce analog audio decodes of the HDMI inputs.

2. Use external switching to choose which front L/R pair of speakers to output to.

3. Try to find an output mode of the receiver that mirrors front L/R to the surround speakers, and use surround L/R for the second pair.
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post #1980 of 1984 Old 11-30-2015, 10:11 AM
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I think the best, albeit complicated and expensive option, would be to wire the preamp out designed for a second sub to another amp/reciever and wire that to the speakers. I actually have an older Yamaha sitting around, but I think I'll put up with whatever I get from this setup in the name of cost, electric consumption and aesthetic.

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
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Yamaha Rx V665bl 630 Watt 7 Channel Home Theater Receiver

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