*OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 1910/790 Owner's Thread - Page 103 - AVS Forum
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post #3061 of 9376 Old 11-18-2009, 09:35 PM
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I had your concerns before buying a 790, which I later replaced with a 989. My space is 24" x 16" x 12". The Denon gets warm but not hot; the air above it does heat up. I would be concerned most about your height, not so much the depth, and with the glass doors. Is it open in the back? Do you plan to keep the doors open when it is on? Mine is open in the front, so there is a path for the heat to escape.
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post #3062 of 9376 Old 11-18-2009, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mitchell View Post

I had your concerns before buying a 790, which I later replaced with a 989. My space is 24" x 16" x 12". The Denon gets warm but not hot; the air above it does heat up. I would be concerned most about your height, not so much the depth, and with the glass doors. Is it open in the back? Do you plan to keep the doors open when it is on? Mine is open in the front, so there is a path for the heat to escape.

I was not intending to keep the door open. The back is not open except for cable holes. The depth concerned me because of the cables/banana plugs/etc protruding from the back. I was thinking I may have to cut the back open for that. And of course, that could help with the heat as well.

What happens if it does get too hot? Will the 1910 just shut itself down? So no damage?
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post #3063 of 9376 Old 11-18-2009, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

as others have noted:

FLAT = no high freq roll-off
AUDYSSEY = high freq roll-off

So select the AUDYSSEY curve under the Audyssey Settings (in PARAMETERS)

If you need even MORE roll-off for TV/movie soundtracks, you can select the "Cinema EQ" option under Surround Parameters. This is an older technology for "taming" the bright soundtrack, but when used on top of the Audyssey curve you will get a "double roll-off" that will be even stronger than the regular AUDYSSEY reference EQ curve.

For music, I would suggest trying the Restorer 64 or 96 settings (modes 1 or 2) as these seem to "warm" up the sound, probably in an effort to deal with tinny treble on compressed music sources.




this menu is not used to select the EQ curve, all it does is allow you to pre-configure which EQ curves are actually AVAILABLE to you via the remote. It's the same concept as "Source Delete" where you can get rid of unused sources; this allows you to get rid of unused curves so when you cycle through them you don't have to deal with the ones you never use.

You actually select the EQ curve by going to PARAMETERS and then AUDYSSEY SETTINGS, or by hitting the MULTEQ button on the remote.

Thank you so much! I was thinking of switching to a MCACC avr for just this!
Now, if I could only find the simple bass/treble setting I'd be set.
This AVR is more in-depth than my previous Yamaha, still learning.
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post #3064 of 9376 Old 11-19-2009, 01:08 AM
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Quote:


Per the website, the 1910 dimensions are:
W 17.1
H 6.7
D 14.9

The width and depth of each shelf is:
W 21
D 17

The height of the top shelf is 8" and the bottom is 9"

Does the 1910 get really hot?

My Denon is in a cabinet thats 20" x 19" x 8.5" and have no heat issue. Just like what Bill mention the air above the Denon does heat up (but not hot) but just warm. The back is open at the top about 3 inches and lower part has a cable hole.

Quote:


If the height is too tight, I can remove one of the shelves and have a full 17" for the height. Would I have to do this?

Or you can move the shelf up by drilling 4 new holes and use shelf pins to give it more height.

Quote:


I think the depth may be tight too. Only 2.1" of room. Will that be enough?

I believe that will be right against the back panel or still have about 1/2 inch play room with the banana plugs in the avr. Cutting the back open will help with the heat and give more room for cable management.
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post #3065 of 9376 Old 11-19-2009, 07:57 AM
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It may sound silly but one of the things that got me interested in learning more about the Denon 1910 was the fact that it has a switchable 110 volt output on the back panel. Why, you ask? ;-)

The "cabinet" that my stereo sits in is a built-in that has adjustable shelves. I picked up the highest quality 115 vac fan available at Radio Shack and cut a hole in the wall of the cabinet. The fan is mounted on the cabinet wall behind the TV that separates the receiver and TV.

I hooked it up to the Denon switchable output so that the fan starts and stops when the Denon is turned on and off. The fan is mounted on rubber grommets that act like shock absorbers and totally stops any vibration noise being transmitted to the cabinet.

Can't hear any fan noise unless there is absolutely NO audio output from the speakers. I've had it long enough that I don't hear it anyway-regardless of audio output! The good thing is that I can crank my 1910 to "rattle the walls" level and it'll run all day with no overheat issues.
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post #3066 of 9376 Old 11-19-2009, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

I am not familiar with that kind of a DI box, I have used thwm in line level mismatches such as guitar pickup levels, unbalanced to balanced connections and imperdence mismatch but not to step down a full speaker level signal top line level. In any case I hope whatever you are doing now for your stereo will work for the Denon but I don't know that and I doubt it's the best way to rig this

A clarificatiuon: The analog "EXT IN" RCA connectors (present on all the models we are discussing) are inputs and completely seperate physically and functionally from the 7 channel (or 2 Ch for euro 889) PRE OUT RCA connectors available only on higher models.

The PRE OUT's are meant to do exactly what you are trying to accomplish, as they provide a preamped/EQ'd line-level output signal (which duplicates the amplified signal present at the speaker posts) for external amplification.

I agree with you, is not the best way, but it should work with acceptable quality without changing the amplifier and respecting the budget.
Some DI boxes have dedicated input for unbalanced power signal (up to 3000W), and provide balanced (XLR or stereo jack) outputs, which in my case can be easily connected to the JBLs.

I will try and will report on results, should someone be interested.

Andrea
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post #3067 of 9376 Old 11-19-2009, 09:24 AM
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Hi I justset up my second DirecTV HD receiver to Denon 1910 and am still happy with the sounds of HD. But while watching a HD Disney channel for the movie of "Herbie", I was bothered by the sounds of it...then I realized there was a consistent dropping of audio for 2 sec or so, every 25 seconds or so. I changed to another channel, fearing that my DirecTV receiver might be the culprit, but so far, I haven't duplicated this problem. What would cause that strange dropping of audio in a consistent pattern on one channel but not on another?
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post #3068 of 9376 Old 11-19-2009, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natchie View Post

Hi I justset up my second DirecTV HD receiver to Denon 1910 and am still happy with the sounds of HD. But while watching a HD Disney channel for the movie of "Herbie", I was bothered by the sounds of it...then I realized there was a consistent dropping of audio for 2 sec or so, every 25 seconds or so. I changed to another channel, fearing that my DirecTV receiver might be the culprit, but so far, I haven't duplicated this problem. What would cause that strange dropping of audio in a consistent pattern on one channel but not on another?

I am having similar problems. DirecTv installed my HD23-DVR two weeks ago. I have a regular DVR in another room. I am only experiencing problems when watching a recording on the DVR and not on all programs. It happens on more than one channel. Sometimes the picture will go blank and then come back. Other times the audio will cut out for a second or two. I have reset the dvr. A technician came and replaced faulty connectors and cable but the problem is still happening. Is there a problem with the 1910 and DirecTV? Or is the problem with DirecTV? The HD receiver and dish are new. Everything is hooked up to my new Samsung 8500.
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post #3069 of 9376 Old 11-19-2009, 04:45 PM
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Try connecting directly to the TV and see if the audio drop outs remain. Could be just audio programming issues with those particular channels otherwise.

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post #3070 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 09:49 AM
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Had my 790 for about a month now and not quite happy with the Bass level.
I have done the Audessey set up etc.
I have read the manual Pg 46,
All I want to do is tweak the bass and trebel.
For the life of me I can't find an adjustment for either anywhere, very frustrating.
Anyone want to walk we through it..Please!!
RC
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post #3071 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogercor View Post

Had my 790 for about a month now and not quite happy with the Bass level.
I have done the Audessey set up etc.
I have read the manual Pg 46,
All I want to do is tweak the bass and trebel.
For the life of me I can't find an adjustment for either anywhere, very frustrating.
Anyone want to walk we through it..Please!!
RC

See page 12 post #345
Search is your friend
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post #3072 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 10:47 AM
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To get a little more treble, I use the audyssey flat curve (see pg. 46 of Denon oper. manual). To get more/less bass, I run audyssey with the volume knob on my subwoofer set at about 3/4, and then fine tune it after audyssey settings are made by the avr-1910.
Pg. 46 also has inst. for basic tone adjustments. Good Luck.
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post #3073 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 10:57 AM
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Jchin and WJ,
Thanks for the quick response.
I had the Dyn EQ turned on so I wasn't seeing the Tone control.
Got it now.
Still not as much BASS but improved.
I have read pg 46 but a little confusing to me.
I also use the search all the time but with over 100 pages it takes awhile and you can miss some items.
Thanks again,
RC
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post #3074 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 11:09 AM - Thread Starter
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as you have now discovered the bass/treble tone controls are disabled with Dynamic EQ.

the big question though is WHY you need more bass -- a properly calibrated system with Dyn EQ enabled should have plenty of bass response. the easiest way to tweak after calibration, assuming your bass management is set up properly and the low freq's are going to the sub, is to tweak the sub channel volume.

so, question: what your speakers set to (large/small) and crossovers freq's?

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post #3075 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

as you have now discovered the bass/treble tone controls are disabled with Dynamic EQ.

the big question though is WHY you need more bass -- a properly calibrated system with Dyn EQ enabled should have plenty of bass response. the easiest way to tweak after calibration, assuming your bass management is set up properly and the low freq's are going to the sub, is to tweak the sub channel volume.

so, question: what your speakers set to (large/small) and crossovers freq's?

I have all speakers set to small.
Crossover =
Front = 40
Center = 40
Surround = 200
Surrond Back = 200
Bass Setting SWMode = LFE
LPF for LFE = 120
Don't know what the last two do for overall sound but these are my settings.

I am using Polk Audio Monitor 60 in front with their matching Center Speaker.
For surround (don't laught) i am using some BOSE small speakers that were wired into my house when I bought it.
I think that is why the Surround Back and Surround L&R crossover is so high.
They actually sound very nice with this set up.
One day I will rewire and add new speakers in the back.
Batpig, Thanks for all your help on this forum.
Great job.
Roger
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post #3076 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogercor View Post

I have all speakers set to small.
Crossover =
Front = 40
Center = 40
Surround = 200
Surrond Back = 200
Bass Setting SWMode = LFE
LPF for LFE = 120
Don't know what the last two do for overall sound but these are my settings.
...

Roger, you should try moving the crossovers on the front/center up to 80Hz, as suggested in the batpig and Audyssey setup guides. I have a pair of large floorstanding speakers, which Audyssey sometimes thinks can go to 40Hz. But when I use REW graphs to look at the response, there is a lot of variation in the response from 40 to 80. What they say seems true, that Audyssey uses a lot more coefficients in its handling of the subs than the mains, and if you let your sub take over this duty, you may hear a more even bass response and not perceive the need to boost it.

Bill
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post #3077 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Roger - agree with Bill, that is exactly why I asked. Typically you should have plenty of bass with Dyn. EQ engaged, and the most common cause of NOT getting it is when your crossovers are set much too low.

The reason you aren't getting enough bass is because those crossovers are much too low, nothing is getting redirected to the subwoofer. Reset the crossover to 80Hz for fronts/center and now you will have plenty of bass redirected to the SW channel and you can adjust for extra bass by simply tweaking the sub's channel volume (in the receiver).

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post #3078 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 01:45 PM
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Looking to upgrade from my Denon 1802. Listened to Pioneer 1019, Sony DN1000, and the Denon 790/1910. Subjectively, I thought the Pioneer and Sony sounded better than the Denon, but all of the Audyssey settings were turned off at the local BestBuy. Thought the detail was better and the soundstage was larger on the Pio and Sony.

In reading WhatHiFi's excellent review of the 1910, they actually preferred Audyssey to be turned off.

http://whathifi.com/Review/Denon-AVR-1910/

Do most folks always leave Audyssey on when watching movies and this is a main reason you bought or prefer the 790/1910, as the overall sound was improved?
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post #3079 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 02:50 PM
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Question about watching movie, especially dvds. THis weekend, I was watching The Lord of the Ring and found it a big challenge to adjust the sound, to allow the dialogue come through clearly, but the background noises and music were too overwhelming. I performed the AUdyssey and set it to flat to minimize the bass and bring out the high frequency. But the dialogue was still drowned out often. What is the best set up in terms of highlighting the dialogue in a movie?
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post #3080 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeels View Post

In reading WhatHiFi's excellent review of the 1910, they actually preferred Audyssey to be turned off...Do most folks always leave Audyssey on when watching movies and this is a main reason you bought or prefer the 790/1910, as the overall sound was improved?

Hi jeels. No, just about everyone around here runs Audyssey most all the time. Hard to say why the reviewers got that part about Audyssey so very wrong. Some audiophiles who have dedicated, acoustically treated rooms and very expensive speakers (tube-amp-all-analog types) prefer to forgo any digital processing. But for us regular folk, Audyssey room correction is unquestionably an excellent feature and the best value for your HT buck at this level of audio equipment and cost. It helps your speakers sound like they cost at least twice as much, creates a wonderful surround "bubble" and has Dynamic EQ which adds so much life and accuracy at lower listening levels.

Unfortunately, testing AVR's with room EQ in the store will not tell you what you need to know. I recommend you take one home, run autosetup and hear for yourself what it does for your speakers in your room.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #3081 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natchie View Post

Question about watching movie, especially dvds. THis weekend, I was watching The Lord of the Ring and found it a big challenge to adjust the sound, to allow the dialogue come through clearly, but the background noises and music were too overwhelming. I performed the AUdyssey and set it to flat to minimize the bass and bring out the high frequency. But the dialogue was still drowned out often. What is the best set up in terms of highlighting the dialogue in a movie?

Hi natchie. First make sure your CC is working properly (listen up close to each driver) and is as well placed as it can be in your room. Ideally, it should be at ear level ( or at least pointed at your head) & not pushed back on a shelf. Near the floor is bad. If you move it, rerun Audyssey.

You can also try turning on DynVol, adjusted to the middle (Evening) setting. When there's normal dialog without all that other stuff, turn up the Vol until it's nice and clear.

You can also turn up the CC if you like.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #3082 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 09:16 PM
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OK, I've assigned the inputs, here's the rub. I'm using an Scientific Atlanta cable box connected with the component cables into the top cable connect on the back of the avr. Then, as the manual illustrates is possible, I am running a hdmi to the 40" samsung plasma tv. NADA. Nothing but a dancing green screen.

Under assign for the sat/cable the choice under "C" is 1-RCA, 2-RCA, and none. In the manual and on batpigrats site it is referred to as COMP-1 and COMP-2. Is this the same thing? And if it is not, how do I find COMP-1 and COMP-2 as they appear to not exist on my unit?

There must be a magic button that I can push to make this problem disappear.
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post #3083 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by algecat3 View Post

...
Under assign for the sat/cable the choice under "C" is 1-RCA, 2-RCA, and none. In the manual and on batpigrats site it is referred to as COMP-1 and COMP-2. Is this the same thing? And if it is not, how do I find COMP-1 and COMP-2 as they appear to not exist on my unit?
...

If I understand correctly what you are seeing, then yes, 1-RCA and 2-RCA should correspond to COMP-1 and COMP-2. When you have done this correctly, the Input Assign menu should show you in the third "Comp" column a 1 on the SAT/CBL line, saying you have associated COMP-1 with the SAT/CBL label.

To be sure, you can delete the HDMI association with SAT/CBL, to ensure that only the analog video is available.

As you are connecting the set over HDMI, you need to make sure the upscaler is on, although this should be true by default. At least the Video Select should be Source and i/p Scaler to Analog.

How are you connecting the audio? Are you connecting 2 channel audio over RCA plugs to the SAT/CBL analog audio input? If using digital audio, you will have to assign this, too. And the audio will not be passed over HDMI to your set. Are you hearing the current channel from the Scientific Atlanta box on your speakers?

I assume when you see a dancing green screen, that is when you have left the menu, and you are seeing the on-screen menuing on your plasma set when you are in the menu.

Bill

P.S. Of course, you don't have to do this. I continue to connect my Scientific Atlanta box direct to the set with component, and run the audio only to the receiver over a digital audio connection.
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post #3084 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 10:33 PM
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How can I use my 1910's scaler instead of my pdp's, but have it off for 1080i since my pdp does better with that?
My HD-DVR can do native.
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post #3085 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 10:51 PM - Thread Starter
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can you explain a little more clearly what you are trying to accomplish? you want the scaler to be on for some input resolutions but off for others?

please be clear, e.g. which source device you are using, what resolutions are being input, and what you want the output resolution to be ultimately.

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post #3086 of 9376 Old 11-22-2009, 10:59 PM
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My input sources are a cable HD-DVR that can do native mode from 480i all the way to 1080i.
My Samsung 50B650 I believe scales everything to 1080p.
My BR is 1080p.
I read that the chip in the 1910 is good other than with 1080i. My Samsung is reportedly good with upscaling 1080i. So I want to use the 1910's scaler for all cable input resolutions other than 1080i, where I would like it to be off.
Assuming I am correct about the 1910's scaler abilities.
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post #3087 of 9376 Old 11-23-2009, 04:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by algecat3 View Post

Under assign for the sat/cable the choice under "C" is 1-RCA, 2-RCA, and none. In the manual and on batpigrats site it is referred to as COMP-1 and COMP-2. Is this the same thing? And if it is not, how do I find COMP-1 and COMP-2 as they appear to not exist on my unit?

What unit do you have and is it USA? For USA models, those terms were used on 2009 and earlier models, however, were replaced by COMP-1, COMP-2, etc. in the 2010 models.

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post #3088 of 9376 Old 11-23-2009, 06:53 AM
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Hello,

I will receive my Denon 1910 in about a week and I am trying to get used to the settings I will have to set.
Most of it are fairly simple (thanks to batpig's docs) but I am stuck on the ZONE 2 control.

I would like to use the provided remote in the zone 2 (kitchen) to control the volume (and others). But the AVR is in another room (living room) so I need to use the "remote input" jack on the back of the AVR. But I didn't find the protocol used, in fact I didn't find anything that described this input.
So my question is, can I just wired directly a TSOP2238 (see vishay site for datasheet) to a 3.5mm jack, get enough cable to put the TSOP in the kitchen and plug the jack into "remote input" or do I have to use an IR transmitter?

Thanks for your help
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post #3089 of 9376 Old 11-23-2009, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

What unit do you have and is it USA? For USA models, those terms were used on 2009 and earlier models, however, were replaced by COMP-1, COMP-2, etc. in the 2010 models.

Good catch. I should have noticed that last night.
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post #3090 of 9376 Old 11-23-2009, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clashlab View Post

So my question is, can I just wired directly a TSOP2238 (see vishay site for datasheet) to a 3.5mm jack, get enough cable to put the TSOP in the kitchen and plug the jack into "remote input" or do I have to use an IR transmitter?

Thanks for your help

The Owners manual calls for an IR Transmitter so that is most likely what you'll have to use without the requisite protocols.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mitchell View Post

Good catch. I should have noticed that last night.

Yeh, more curious then anything. Either he's got a 790 (as 1910 has component side by side) with bad software or he's got a non USA model as the 2009 models had 3 component jacks which were also side by side.

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