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#1 ·
FOR GENERAL FAQ AND DENON SETUP HELP, PLEASE VISIT:

http://batpigworld.com/



AVR 1909 (aka 789) vs AVR 1910 (aka 790)


Comparison of 1909 vs 1910 from Denon website:
http://www.usa.denon.com/ProductDeta...mageField.y=24


1909 rear panel photo:
http://www.usa.denon.com/AVR1909_Large_Back.jpg


1910 rear panel photo:
http://www.usa.denon.com/AVR1910_Large_Back.jpg


Straight to the point:


- 1910 gets an extra HDMI input (4 vs 3), but drops some legacy inputs (only 2 component video, and only 1 s-video which can ONLY be used with Denon ipod dock control as per NOTE on pg 9 of manual)


- 1910 gets new ABT video processor which allows for HDMI > HDMI scaling up to 1080p (pg 34 of manual)... but still no OSD overlay.


- 1910 weighs 1.8 lbs less (23.6 vs 25.4)... but has identical power specs (90W x 7 @ 0.08% THD) so judgement withheld for now as to whether the 1910 has less "real" power.


- 1910 gets Dolby PLIIz with the ability to reassign the SURR.BACK to FRONT HEIGHT for alternative 7.1 setup.



That's about it! They are almost identical in most other respects.


Other relatively minor functional differences:


1. The new video processor apparently also allows the 1910 to handle 1080p component > HDMI conversion (pg 9 of the manual no longer has a footnote specifying this restriction, and even specifically references 1080p component coming out at 1080p). However, the OSD looks basically the same and the overlay restrictions (only on s-vid / composite) are unchanged; apparently you need to step up to 2310/890 level for a real GUI w/ overlay.


2. There are now SEVEN discrete video names to which you can assign inputs: DVD, HDP, TV, CBL/SAT, VCR, DVR, V-AUX (which shares front panel inputs). This means you can hook up more devices with discrete name access (no need to "stack" inputs) and actually use all six hi-def inputs (4 HDMI + 2 component) without needing to borrow the "V-AUX" name from the front panel inputs. Note, however, that there is now only one "audio only" input name (currently "CD" is the only audio only input name).


3. Dynamic EQ gets a "Reference Level Offset" which can be accessed in Surround Parameters; note that, functionally, it is identical to adjusting the "Source Level" for an input, but the easy access in "Surround Parameters" menu means you can make "bass taming" tweaks on the fly more easily.


4. HDMI Control gets a "Standby Source" setting (see pg 28) which allows you to specify which HDMI input is "passed through" to your TV. No need to remember to switch inputs before you power down!


5. The evil two-sided flip-door remote lives on
However, there is now a discrete "Source Select" button on the front (the big button under the D-Pad, used to be the "Restorer" button) which cycles through your inputs (so you don't have to go to the hidden flip door to select a source that didn't make the cut for the front panel).


6. Direct mode "purists" rejoice! You no longer have the option to use Audyssey at all with any Direct mode (regular, pure, or multich) according to the chart on pg 58 of the 1910 manual.


7. The "LPF for LFE" setting has moved from the "Crossover Freq" menu and now lives in the "Bass Setting" menu (pg 26 of manual). This should reduce some confusion (e.g. it's not a crossover!) although the wording in the Denon manual makes it sound like it's an HPF for the subwoofer, and not just the LFE channel.


8. MANUAL EQ adjustment has moved into the "Surround Parameter" menu so it can be accessed on-the-fly more easily


9. The Volume Control can now be optionally set to "absolute" or "relative" value (see pg 30 of manual). So anyone who hates the "negative numbers" style of volume, you can set it to go from 0 to 99!


10. There is a "Zone Rename" function (pg 31) so you can rename "Zone 2" to say "Patio" or whatever.


11. They have apparently removed the HDMI options for "Color Space" and "RGB Range". Ostensibly these were just confusing people and it is now essentially stuck in "auto" mode for color space.


12. New, streamlined front panel layout (fewer buttons, menu/d-pad/return button cluster moves to the middle)



------------------------------------


OTHER FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS


Q. What is the difference between the three-digit models (e.g. AVR 790) and the four-digit models (e.g. AVR 1910)?


A: Essentially, NOTHING. Denon puts out two parallel receiver lineups, with four-digit and three-digit model numbers. The four-digit models are generally sold by high end stereo shops and custom installers, and the three-digit models are the "consumer" version sold in retail outlets like Circuit City and Fry's.


However, there is ZERO difference in terms of power, specs, sound quality, build quality, etc. between the two lines. Denon has been doing this for years, it is exactly analagous to the Yamaha HTR and RX-V parallel receiver lines.


There will usually be one or two minor differences to differentiate the three-digit and four-digit models. There is typically a slight cosmetic difference between the two lines, and different remotes.


In the specific case of the 1910 vs. 790, the only differences (besides the cosmetics) is:


1. the 1910 has A/B speaker switching, whereas the 790 only has "A" front speakers

2. the 1910 adds a "room to room" remote control jack for wired control from Zone 2
In all other respects, the 1910 and 790 are IDENTICAL.


For more info, please see the Denon Model Numbers page at batpigworld:
http://batpigworld.com/models.html


Q. What do I gain from stepping up to the 1910/790, as opposed to just buying the lower-priced AVR 1610/590 model?


A: The 1610 (aka 590) is a very full-featured entry level model that will be sufficient for most people. It has 3 HDMI inputs, full HD audio decoding, analog > digital video conversion (so you can run one HDMI cable to your TV for all sources), and the full "Audyssey suite" of MultEQ + Dynamic EQ + Dynamic Volume. The 1910 / 790 is very similar and built on the same platform / chassis. They have similar amp sections, identical processing and DAC's, etc.


The following are the "step up" features you gain from going to 1910 (aka 790):


1. The 1910 is a full 7.1 receiver. The 1610/590 is a 5.1 receiver (5 amps built in) but can be expanded to 7.1 using the "Rear/Height" pre-outs to add an external amplifier. You have your choice of 7.1 expansion methods, either PLIIx (standard 7.1 with 2 "rear" channels) or PLIIz (5.1 + 2 "height" channels).


2. The 1910 has a 4th HDMI input, and adds an extra coaxial digital audio input


3. The 1910 is spec'd for more power, 90W x 7


4. The 1910 has full video scaling, of both analog and digital video, up to 1080p, and these video settings are adjustable by input. The 1610 has no scaling, and no adjustable settings; it simply automatically converts analog video to digital, and deinterlaces 480i > 480p when doing so. Everything else goes out at the same resolution it came in.


5. The 1910 has 2-zone/2-source capability (no multizone on 1610), and the 1910 (not 790, see above) has a "room to room" remote control jack for wired control from Zone 2.


6. The 1910 has extra inputs: a Sirius input jack, a "CD" analog input, and 7.1 multichannel analog inputs


7. The 1910 has two switched power outlets on the back


Q. What do I gain from stepping up to the 2310/890 model?


A: The 2310/890 model's major features are:


1. A 5th HDMI input


2. A slightly better amp section


3. A dedicate Phono input with pre-amp


4. usable S-video inputs (i.e. not just for the Denon ipod dock) on the rear, and front panel optical / s-video input


5. high-end ABT-2010 video processor with full color GUI, overlay over HDMI, HDMI>HDMI processing, and picture controls with brightness/contrast/hue/saturation and noise reduction settings which are memorized by input (allowing for independent source calibration even when running one HDMI cable to TV)


6. the 2310CI model (not the 890) will also include an RS-232 port, second smaller Zone 2 remote, and a 12V trigger output for custom integration ("CI") functionality.
 
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#2,962 ·
Hey guys I am having a problem with my avr-1910 well last week I purchased it and it seemed to be working fine no problem but a few days ago I notice when I play xbox 360 the screen will flicker black in intervals of about 2 min but it keeps happening faster and faster what I mean by that is it starts every 2 min and if i don't reboot my xbox or unplug the hdmi cable it will happen more faster like every 15 seconds. Now I originally thought it was my xbox so I went and bought a new one but it keeps happening. Not sure what the problem is. any help? thanks! P.S. my xbox is set up throughout HDMI and hdmi is going to my 42 inch vizio TV. I have also changed out the HDMI cordes no luck :/
 
#2,964 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie /forum/post/17512556


DenonJeff (Director Product Development) confirmed that firmware updates are being developed for the 2010 models having the Samsung/LG Blu-Ray player bitstreaming and HDMI-CEC issues. The 2310CI update is already available. The 1910/790 update should be available soon at Authorized Repair Centers. Click here to locate the one closest to you.

After all the researching, product returning, pseudo-workarounds that didn't work, this is very good news to hear. Now my "type A" personality can get some rest. =)
 
#2,965 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie /forum/post/17517582


So you're saying it was working just fine and then all of a sudden developed these issues? You didn't make any other configuration changes at all? What happens when you run the HDMI directly to the TV?

IT seems fine i got a new xbox hoping that was the prob but it keeps doing it. Not sure i was hoping it was something in the settings but only happens when playing xbox not watching tv or blu ray.
 
#2,966 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mogly406 /forum/post/17443592


I just picked up a AVR-1910 and am trying to hook it up tonight. Unfortunately I am stuck with the cable box supplied by COX which is a Motorola DCT6200. This cable box only has DVI and component outputs - no HDMI. I have a DVI to HDMI cable that I used for the SAT/Cable input to the AVR-1910 and a HDMI out to the TV, but I am not getting any video. Right now the only way I can get video to the TV is if I run component cables to the DVR input on the AVR-1910 (it doesn't have a SAT/Cable component i/p). Is there some setting I need to change to get the DVI to HDMI input to work? Has anyone else found a better way to hook up a cable box like this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Jay

Did you ever find a solution to this that involves the DVI->HDMI connection? I am having the exact same problem with the exact same cable box and the exact same cable path. In order to avoid digging out component cables and pulling everything away from the wall again, I'd like to get the HDMI connection to work.


To summarize, I have the cable box DVI->HDMI conencted to the 1910, connected via HDMI to the TV. My audio is via coaxial digital, and it wourks fine. I noticed in the thread that some people were having problems going from the HDMI of the receiver to DVI into the TV, but not the other way around and on the input side of the 1910.


Any other thoughts? I'll succumb to the component cable option if I must, but it seems kind of silly.


Thanks
 
#2,969 ·
Setup:

Cable box is connected to 1910 (Cable/Sat analog connectors) and TV (Left/Right Audio + Composite - with splitters).

2 floor stands (focal), center (focal), 2 surrounds (maurdent-shorts, bipolar), sub -maurdent-shorts.

Front and center are configured as small.


AVR is connected to TV (HDMI).

AVR-TV connections are 10m length. Both cables (HDMI/3xRCA) are cheap ebay stuff.


When I hear stereo music from cable box in stereo/direct mode - everything OK. When I switch to any surround mode (Dolby II, Matrix, etc) playing the same music - surrounds speakers output almost 80% from the sound, I can't hear main speakers.


Effect doesn't happen when I stream 2 channel stereo sound to AVR from another source (PC, mp3 player, DVD player) through analog/Coax/HDMI connections.

Audissey's mode doesn't affect the problem.

Happens on all channel with music content that I tried.

Hard to detect if it happens on speech content as well, looks like hefty part of speech frequencies are routed to center.


Cable box outputs only regular analog sound, it has no digital connectors whatsoever.

TV sounds normal.


Any ideas ?
 
#2,970 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by savaytse66 /forum/post/17520336


This is what I gathered as well, I was just hoping maybe someone had a solution that wasn't posted. I guess I'll did out the component cables and do it that way.

Although it would mean additional cost, you could try introducing an HDMI splitter between the cable box and Denon as that has worked for some with HDMI handshake problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dumalkin /forum/post/17521098


Any ideas ?

Other than Resetting the Microprocessor, no. Are you hearing anything from the mains at all?
 
#2,971 ·
My 1080p LCD's scaler is really slow, forcing me to use game mode or force 1080p on the PS3 (doesn't work on all games).


Does anybody think it would be worthwhile switching from my Denon 1909 to the 1910 and use the ABT HDMI-HDMI scaler?


Also, is switching sources any quicker on the 1910? It's annoyingly slow on the 1909..
 
#2,972 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie /forum/post/17521453


Other than Resetting the Microprocessor, no. Are you hearing anything from the mains at all?

The problem exists only when hearing audio from cable box. If your question is about this scenario - yes, if I stand near mains, I hear music, rather low volume.

In all other modes, including surround modes on analog stereo audio from PC (headphones output from laptop, connected to AVR), mains are heard normally, much louder then surrounds, as expected.

How can I reset microprocessor ? Calibration should be redone after that ?
 
#2,975 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiphophead85 /forum/post/17523349


I've had my denon 790 for a few weeks now hooked into a panasonic bd60 blu-ray player. I have watched a few movies including Up, Drag me to Hell, and Transformers. I am wondering if on the display on the receiver, should the blue light come on that shows HD audio while im watching these movies?

Only if you set the Panasonic to bitstream out for HDMI audio, which is easily found in the setup menu. Then you will be sending the info from the player to the 790 for it to process. Also make sure you have chosen DTS Master or TrueHD in the movie menu if it is not the default track for the movie. The 790 will say "TrueHD" or "DTS HD-MA" on the display if everything is correct, and the blue light will be lit.
 
#2,976 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dumalkin /forum/post/17522756


How can I reset microprocessor ? Calibration should be redone after that ?

The procedure is listed on page 64 in your Owner's Manual and yes you would have to do AUTO SETUP again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiphophead85 /forum/post/17523349


I've had my denon 790 for a few weeks now hooked into a panasonic bd60 blu-ray player. I have watched a few movies including Up, Drag me to Hell, and Transformers. I am wondering if on the display on the receiver, should the blue light come on that shows HD audio while im watching these movies?

You have to set Secondary Audio to OFF on the BD60.
 
#2,977 ·
Just joined the forum with the purchase of my 1910. I like it so far, but am having trouble getting the sub to sound as it did with my older Sony receiver.


The satellites and sub are both part of an 8 year old Sony home-theater-in-a-box packge which at the time sounded great. Now with all of the upgrades in audio sound quality, just sounds OK. In addition, no HDMI on the old Sony receiver so the Denon was my upgrade pick. Looking to upgrade the speakers and sub to Polk but in the meantime....this issue.


The bass out of this sub with the Sony was very smooth and mellow. The bass coming out of it with the Denon sounds very harsh and distorted at times. It goes from one extreme to the other with hardly any bass to boomy distorted bass. I have run Audyssey setup testing six positions with the sub gain (the only setting on the sub itself) at 50%. The input level after the auto setup was set to +15db. The LFE crossover was set to 80hz (I set it to 120 per Batpig's guide - awesome work by the way!). All the satellite crossovers were set to 200hz (those seem a bit high, no?). I have tried turning off the Audyssey EQ and/or Dynamic EQ, but then I get very little bass at all, especially at low volumes. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?


Thanks in advance.
 
#2,978 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wham /forum/post/17523950


... I have run Audyssey setup testing six positions with the sub gain (the only setting on the sub itself) at 50%. The input level after the auto setup was set to +15db. ...

If you are seeing the input level on the sub at +15dB, that suggests that Audyssey maxed out the gain without getting it to reference levels. I.e., the sub gain on the sub is still set too low.


This is discussed around step G5 in the Audyssey Setup Guide .


If you get the Audyssey calculated level between the min and the max on the sub, it may sound better.


Good luck,

Bill
 
#2,981 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig /forum/post/17524156


Wham - since those are HTIB speaker, do you know if the sub is active or passive? I have a strong feeling your subwoofer may not be compatible with this AVR.


Do you know the model number of your Sony HTIB?

The sub is active (powered) rated at 100 watts. It has one RCA jack in the back to receive the signal from the AVR, that's it as far as connections go and only the gain setting, no crossover settings on the sub itself.


The model number for the HTIB is HT-5100D i believe. The receiver model # is STR-K502. The sub model is SA-WMSP1 with the satellites being SS-MSP1.


Specs for my speakers and sub are as follows.


SS-MSP1 speaker>>

speaker type: 8 cm cone type, full range, magnetically shielded, bass reflex>>

impedance: 8 ohms>>

power handling (maximum power input); 100 watts>>

sensitivity level: 85 dB (1W,1m)>>

frequency range: 160 Hz – 20,000 Hz>>

dimensions: 92 x 133 x 115 mm, including front grill>>

mass: approximately 1 kg>>


SAWM-SP1 subwoofer>>

speaker type: 20 cm cone type, active subwoofer, magnetically shielded, acoustically loaded bass reflex>>

continuous RMS output power (8 ohms, 20-250 Hz); 50W>>

reproduction frequency range: 28 Hz – 200 Hz>>

high frequency cut-off frequency: 150 Hz>>


The only thing that conflicts with the documentation on the sub is the wattage. The sub label says 100W.
 
#2,982 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wham /forum/post/17524811


...The only thing that conflicts with the documentation on the sub is the wattage. The sub label says 100W.

The sub label is probably referring to power consumption not output. Turn up the gain, run 1 position, calculate and then check the sub channel. Repeat until it is less than +12, then go ahead and run all positions, calculate and store the results as per OM pp22-23.
 
#2,983 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind /forum/post/17525026


The sub label is probably referring to power consumption not output. Turn up the gain, run 1 position, calculate and then check the sub channel. Repeat until it is less than +12, then go ahead and run all positions, calculate and store the results as per OM pp22-23.

Thanks for the advice. I'll try that in the morning and let you know.
 
#2,984 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wham /forum/post/17525698


Thanks for the advice. I'll try that in the morning and let you know.

Re-ran the Audyssey setup this morning with the gain on the sub at 80%. Sounds better, but there are still some instances where the sub gives a very deep distorted rumble. For instance, Lord of the Rings (Fellowship) when Sauron's fingers are cut off in the beginning battle scene and you see it and the ring hit the ground....distorted rumble.


This time the sub was set by Audyssey to -2.5db. The crossovers on the satellites came in a 200hz for the L & R, 250hz for the C and 150hz for the surrounds. I have the LFE set to 120hz.


Based on the above and the frequency response of the sub (28hz to 200Hz) should I set the subcrossover to 200hz or as close as possible so I'm not missing any of the sound range?
 
#2,985 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wham /forum/post/17526975


Re-ran the Audyssey setup this morning with the gain on the sub at 80%. Sounds better, but there are still some instances where the sub gives a very deep distorted rumble. For instance, Lord of the Rings (Fellowship) when Sauron's fingers are cut off in the beginning battle scene and you see it and the ring hit the ground....distorted rumble.This time the sub was set by Audyssey to -2.5db. The crossovers on the satellites came in a 200hz for the L & R, 250hz for the C and 150hz for the surrounds. I have the LFE set to 120hz.Based on the above and the frequency response of the sub (28hz to 200Hz) should I set the subcrossover to 200hz or as close as possible so I'm not missing any of the sound range?

Good work.


You are asking a lot from your small inexpensive HTIB speaker system/sub. You may need to either turn the overall volume down a little, or trim the sub channel down manually by a few dB, especially for those really big LFE effects type soundtracks. The LFE=120 is fine/irrelevent and there is no "crossover for the sub." I'd leave all the xovers alone and just enjoy it for now while dreaming of more capables speakers/sub. Be warned-you are about to enter the neverending HT upgrade vortex.
 
#2,986 ·
yes, Wham, you have to realize that you have just purchased a unit that can unleash the full, awesome dynamic range of movies like LOTR. You are probably enjoying the extra clean power (and also the boost provided by Dynamic EQ) which encourages you to turn up the volume... but then you start hitting the limits of your speakers!


What you describe clearly sounds like your sub is hitting its limits. For now, I would recommend going to the PARAMETER menu and manually turning down the LFE channel -10dB so you take a little load off the sub. You can do this separately for Dolby Digital vs DTS vs multichannel PCM. An alternative option is to trim down the reference level offset for Dynamic EQ (also in the PARAMETER menu under Audyssey Settings) to -10dB, which will lessen the bass boost provided by Dynamic EQ.


Sorry to corroborate SoundofMind's diagnosis, but you are in danger of being hit by the upgrade bug!
 
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