*OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 1910/790 Owner's Thread - Page 148 - AVS Forum
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post #4411 of 9332 Old 01-15-2010, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eshaheen View Post

I just ordered this receiver today to replace my Onkyo 606. One issue that I see is that zone two requires an RCA connection. Currently I have speakers on my back patio running straight into speaker terminals on the zone 2 output of my Onkyo. Is there an easy solution here to hook these speaker cables into the Denon? Am I going to need a amp for the second zone!?!?



apparently you missed the answer I already gave you

Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

To add to what JD said, Onkyos and Denons have different functionality in this regard.

As you know with your Onkyo 606, the Onkyos have separate speaker binding posts for Zone 2 in addition to the full 7.1 speaker array. So you do not have to decide between the surr.back speakers and the zone 2 speakers; on the Onkyo, when you engage Zone 2, an internal switch mutes the surr.back speakers (reducing you to 5.1 automatically) and engages the Zone 2 speakers.

On the Denons, there is only one set of speaker posts labeled "Surr.Back/Amp Assign", and thus if you want to use the internal amps you MUST choose between surr.back or Zone 2 speakers. If you want to power the Zone 2 speakers internally, your only option is to run a 5.1 setup. If you want to maintain your Zone 2 setup with a full 7.1 array in Main Zone, you need to add a 2-ch amp to power the Zone 2 speakers.


you may also want to review the Zone 2 section of my FAQ:

http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#multizone

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post #4412 of 9332 Old 01-15-2010, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

apparently you missed the answer I already gave you




you may also want to review the Zone 2 section of my FAQ:

http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#multizone

Hmm... I only saw the RCA zone 2 jacks on the back, but I see what you are saying. Too bad - I like the onkyo functionality much better on this. So how would the RCA hacks ideally be utilized?
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post #4413 of 9332 Old 01-15-2010, 07:53 PM
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Ordered my 1910 today. Now the wait begins!
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post #4414 of 9332 Old 01-15-2010, 08:40 PM
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Just out of curiousity, does anybody here NOT use hdmi auto lip-sync, particularly those with a projector?

This lip sync issue is such a headache for me.

edit: Well...I think I've got it figured out. I have the HDMI hooked back up with auto lip-sync OFF. Certain channels run at about 30ms delay. while other channels run at 90ms delay. So with auto lip-sync, all of the 30ms channels were hopelessly overshot.

Does anybody else experience this? HBO HD is synced at 30ms, while SHO HD is synced at about 80-90ms. Pretty annoying...
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post #4415 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

Yup. So, Rodrigues, based on bp's comments, which echo (well, he has SONAR, doesn't he?) my thoughts, I would not think that running Audyssey A+B is a good way to go. You could run it set to A, which will optimize your 5.1 surround system and then you'd just EQ your towers manually for Stereo.

Or better yet, consider this simple trial: in order to get optimal specific Audyssey filtering for my towers, which should greatly enhance stereo listening, I'd rerun Audyssey with Front Speakers set to B (no rewiring needed). You can then decide whether you like Stereo with the sub or not by using the special Stereo/Direct settings; A/B from 2.0 (no sub, speakers=large) to 2.1 (SMALL, xover=80). If you have a well placed, decent sub it should blend quite well. This is how I do it. My Polk towers, though fairly adequate for bass, play very well indeed with my Polk sub.

For 5.1 surround I would just set the Fronts manually to small, xover=80 as is the usual recommendation and listen to see if Audyssey has adequately tonally matched the CC to the FR/L so the front sound field sounds even and balanced. This 5.1 system should sound quite good.

SOM, JD & BP, thank you guys!

SOM, I will give it a try soon, thanks again!

BTW, SOM means SOUND in portuguese

Regards!


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post #4416 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 05:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaturnX View Post

I didn't get a chance to get any more info about the fixes, does anyone know what the delay and PLII updates were?

No clue on the PLII issue, however, some posters have reported a slight delay in the audio when playing the same source to both zones. This is really only apparent when the Zone2 speakers are in a nearby/open room (eg kitchen) where they can be heard from the main zone as well.

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post #4417 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueMonkeyGlider View Post

Thanks, jdsmoothie, once again.

After running Audyssey the center channel SPL reading is 10 dB lower than the fronts. I trimmed the center up to equal the SPL reading of the front L/R. Does this effect MultEQ or other Audyssey auto settings?

Changing the speaker volume settings does NOT effect Audyssey (although the box around the log will disappear indicating you have modified the AUTO SETUP original values) so tweak away to suit your personal preference. However, such a large difference in channel values is questionable. Either your center speaker is WAY more sensitive then the front mains or it's not equally in line with the front mains. Are all three pretty much on the same plane? Do you have the front mains toed "inward" facing the prime listening position?

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post #4418 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodrigues_Brazil View Post

...SOM means SOUND in portuguese Regards!

Interesting. BTW, I want to be clear that the trial I proposed uses the towers both for stereo and for 5.1 (so, your Front speakers would always be set to "B" per p 27, the way you have them wired right now). This technique leaves the smaller 2 front speakers unfiltered by Audyssey and completely unused.

Also, "biwiring" (or what your OM refers to as "biamping") with these amps is not generally thought to improve SQ, and introduces complexities in wiring and setup. Review your OM p 11 (set AmpAssign=Front B Biamp) & p 12 very carefully (remove jumpers!). Check to be sure that all the tweeters and midrange drivers of the towers are getting signal and that the little FR/L are not getting any signal at all.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #4419 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Changing the speaker volume settings does NOT effect Audyssey (although the box around the log will disappear indicating you have modified the AUTO SETUP original values) so tweak away to suit your personal preference. However, such a large difference in channel values is questionable. Either your center speaker is WAY more sensitive then the front mains or it's not equally in line with the front mains. Are all three pretty much on the same plane? Do you have the front mains toed "inward" facing the prime listening position?

Thanks for the help, jdsmoothie.

I gave my daughter a pair of 1998 Klipsch KSB 3.1 bookshelf speakers for front L/R and bought a KEF iQ2C center. The Klipsch are way more sensitive than the KEF and the KEF center is relatively smaller than the Klipsch. I have not yet bought a set of stands for the Klipsch which were sitting on the floor about 1 foot lower than the KEF center. The Klipsch were towed inward to the main listening position. BTW, I found a nice looking set of steel VTI speaker stands on eBay at a good price.

I used a Radio Shack SPL meter and found the Klipsch 10 dB louder than the KEF center with volume set at -20dB: Klipsch=98 dB; KEF=88 dB playing 5.1 recording of Dave Matthews' Live (at Central Park?) "Crush". I adjusted the center trim up from -6.5 dB to -1.5 dB and kept the Audyssey settings for the Klipsch at -9.5 dB. That evened out the front soundstage in terms of volume.

I still need to adjust the tone, I think, by increasing the center bass. Is this a good idea? If so, how is this accomplished?

I will re-run Audyssey once I receive the speaker stands.
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post #4420 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

Interesting. BTW, I want to be clear that the trial I proposed uses the towers both for stereo and for 5.1 (so, your Front speakers would always be set to "B" per p 27, the way you have them wired right now). This technique leaves the smaller 2 front speakers unfiltered by Audyssey and completely unused.

Also, "biwiring" (or what your OM refers to as "biamping") with these amps is not generally thought to improve SQ, and introduces complexities in wiring and setup. Review your OM p 11 (set AmpAssign=Front B Biamp) & p 12 very carefully (remove jumpers!). Check to be sure that all the tweeters and midrange drivers of the towers are getting signal and that the little FR/L are not getting any signal at all.

Not 100% sure but, apparently all speakers are working perfectly when in 5.1, 2.0 or 2.1.

Can you recommend some specif test?

Perhaps some downloadable audio file or something?

Picture of my Kef biwired, powered by Denon 1910, of course


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post #4421 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodrigues_Brazil View Post

Not 100% sure but, apparently all speakers are working perfectly when in 5.1, 2.0 or 2.1. Can you recommend some specif test?...

Good. No need for a sophisticated test. As you mentioned that it didn't sound right, I was just saying that I would just put my ear up to each tweeter and driver on the towers to be sure it's outputting signal, confirming the biwiring and biwire Amp assign is all correct. Errors would be easily discovered using any 2 ch source on Stereo. Carry on.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #4422 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 12:20 PM
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Hello,
I bought a subwoofer last night and I'm working on adding it into my system (I was running 5.0 prior to this). I've read this whole thread and Batpig's guide (props to Batpig) so I'm pretty familiar with the setup and I ran Audyssey for the 5.0 setup with pleasing results. I went ahead and looked at the Audyssey thread to make sure I had a good understanding and felt pretty comfortable. After making the physical connections with the subwoofer (and making a few tweaks as far as speaker placement (adjusted toe-in on Front L&R), I went ahead and ran the Audyssey auto setup. However, I'm puzzled by the results.

I have a pretty hodge-podge system. Denon AVR-1910, Front L&R are Boston Acoustics A-150 (a floorstanding, 3-way speaker from the 80's with a 10" woofer-rated down to 36hz), a JBL EC25 Center (largest driver is 5", rated down to 80hz), and a pair of KLH Model 45 for surrounds (rated down to 90hz-extremely cheap but they get the job done for now). I just purchased an M&K MX-125 MarkII subwoofer to add into the mix (old, but I think I'll be enjoying it). The first results I got confused me, so I ran Audyssey again, but got similar results. It was late so I put this aside until the morning. I ran a single sweep of Audyssey several times to get the subwoofer channel level between -12dB and +12 dB, then I ran the full 6 sweeps. My Audyssey results are as follows:

All speakers set to small except subwoofer, which says yes.

Distances were all pretty spot-on.

Channel Level Check

Front L: -8,0dB
Center: -7.5dB
Front R: -8.0dB
Surround R: -7.0dB
Surround L: -7.0dB
Subwoofer: -6.0dB

Crossover Freq. Check
Front: 150hz
Center: 100hz
Surround: 110hz

I've read enough here to know that I can't necessarily go by speakers stated freq response ratings, and that room acoustics, location from the wall, etc., can alter the frequency response of a speaker, but I was shocked to see that Audyssey set the crossover at 150hz for my fronts, which have a 10" woofer and are rated down to 36hz, while the crappy little surrounds were set at 110hz??? I was using a setup bluray for my system just a few days ago and ran some frequency sweeps. My Fronts gave good volume between 40hz and 50hz, and full volume between 50hz and 60hz. They were set to large at time (since I didn't have a subwoofer connected). I checked the fuses on the Bostons to make sure, but they were fine.

Stylez777 had a similar question a few pages back at post #4051, but his surrounds were all the same and were fairly small, and it was suggested he may simply want to raise the crossover for his rears to match the higher crossover set for his front L&R. This doesn't really apply to my situation.

Simply put, I think Audyssey isn't working correctly on my Denon. Does this raise a red flag for anyone else? Any suggestions?

More info on the Boston A-150s is below (pulled from a vintage audio website), and I've attached pictures of the Boston vs. the KLH.

Boston Acoustics A-150
- 3-way, Acoustic-Suspension design
-10" Low Frequency Driver (woofer)
-4.5" "Ferrofluid" Cooled Mid- Range in it's own, isolated enclosure to reduce dB robbing bass reflections
-1" Soft-dome, "Ferrofluid" Cooled Tweeter
Specs:
Frequency Response: 36-25kHz @ +- 3dB
Efficiency: 90dB 1w @ 1m
Nominal Impedance: 8Ω each
Cross-over frequencies: at 550Hz & 3kHz
Nominal Impedance: 8Ω nominal / 6Ω minimum
Recommended Minimum Power amplifier rating: 15 watts minimum
LL
LL
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post #4423 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purplestallion View Post

Hello, I bought a subwoofer last night and I'm working on adding it into my system (I was running 5.0 prior to this). I've read this whole thread and Batpig's guide (props to Batpig)...
Crossover Freq. Check
Front: 150hz
Center: 100hz
Surround: 110hz
...Simply put, I think Audyssey isn't working correctly on my Denon. Does this raise a red flag for anyone else? Any suggestions?...

First, congrats on a great post with lots of info, and for your prep work. How does it sound now, compared to before? You may well want to xpost this in the Audyssey thread, Chris is fielding questions today.

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post #4424 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 01:38 PM
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I first want to say that the info in this forum is invaluable and all of the "real world" feedback is great. I do have a question though that I am hoping I can get some feedback on from some of you fellow 1910/790 owners out there.


I am having serious issues with the HDMI output to my Epson 1080 UB CinemaSeries Pro projector when trying to use my LG BD390 or my Samsung BD-P1590 Blu-Ray players that I purchased over Christmas. They both have identical issues so I am assuming it is the AV-790 that is the culprit. The iise is as follows:

I can power on all of my components and switch the source to DVD (Blu-Ray) and I will get the main menu/home screen for either of the BD players but once i put in a Blu-Ray movie, the out put beings to flash on and off. Once it starts to do this, I have to power everything down and start over and some times that doesn't fix the problem. I have gotten lucky and watched 2-3 movies in a row without any issues but have not been able to pin point what causes it to start freaking out.

I can hook the BD player(s) directly to the projector via HDMI and it works flawlessly but I don't want to have to use my digital/optical audio feed to the AVR because i will loose the high end audio that is proprietary to HDMI (i.e. Dolby DTS HD, DTS Master Audio, etc...)

After reading thru the forum, I see that I am way behind on firmware updates. Below ids my current rev:

AVR-790 E3
Main ver. 00.73
Sub ver. 00.17
DSP ver. 50.12
APLD ; A2990009

Does anyone have a list of what the different Firmware updates from 00.73 up to 00.89 will fix? I am trying to figure out if a firmware update will solve my problems or if it is something in the video switching/pass-thru that is faulty.

Also, do you know if I take it to a local authorized service center if they will do the firmware update for free or if there is a charge? I have about 1 week left on my warranty so i will take it in before it expires but was curious if in the future they will try to charge me for it.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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post #4425 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavysledz View Post

I can power on all of my components and switch the source to DVD (Blu-Ray) and I will get the main menu/home screen for either of the BD players but once i put in a Blu-Ray movie, the out put beings to flash on and off. Once it starts to do this, I have to power everything down and start over and some times that doesn't fix the problem. I have gotten lucky and watched 2-3 movies in a row without any issues but have not been able to pin point what causes it to start freaking out.

Also, do you know if I take it to a local authorized service center if they will do the firmware update for free or if there is a charge? I have about 1 week left on my warranty so i will take it in before it expires but was curious if in the future they will try to charge me for it.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

What does "the out put begins to flash on and off" mean? Are you saying the front panel display on the 790 flashes on and off? Have you tried the Reset the Microprocessor (p. 64) procedure?

There is a known issue with LG and Samsung BDPs being unable to send bitsream HD audio, however, not so when sending PCM, although this doesn't appear to be the issue in your case as you do seem to be able to get HD bitstream audio on occassion.

You're not "way behind" on firmware updates as they are not consecutive. There is currently only one firmware update available that brings the firmware Main Ver to 89 which you can read more about clicking on the link in my sig.

Not sure why you think there is only 1 week left on your warranty, as the 790 has been out less than 1 year and Denon has a 2 year warranty on AVRs. You are responsible for cost of getting the AVR to the repair facility (whether dropping it off locally or shipping it). The warranty work, including the firmware update, and return shipping are both free.

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post #4426 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 03:01 PM
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Hi all.. first post as I just joined the ranks of owning a 790.... Batpig's guide was extremely helpful getting this set up. Great step up from my old Yammy.

Only have one issue to be ironed out and was hoping someone on here could help.

Have a WD TV -> HDMI -> AVR-790 -> HDMI -> Sharp Aquos LC42D62U 1080p

With the WD TV connected directly to the TV I get a 1080p input signal. If I go through the receiver, I have to change the WD TV output to 1080i otherwise I get an incompatible video signal. Happens when the IP scaler is on or off.

Also have a WII connected and tried to use the receiver to convert it to 1080p. No luck and got the same incompatible video signal. Having the receiver convert to 1080i works though.

It seems like the TV just can't accept something about the 1080p signal from the receiver. All the other signal types seem okay.

Any ideas? Am I potentially losing some video quality? I'm hoping it's just a setting I missed because I'm new to this.

Carlton
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post #4427 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purplestallion View Post

...

Distances were all pretty spot-on.

Channel Level Check

Front L: -8,0dB
Center: -7.5dB
Front R: -8.0dB
Surround R: -7.0dB
Surround L: -7.0dB
Subwoofer: -6.0dB

Crossover Freq. Check
Front: 150hz
Center: 100hz
Surround: 110hz

I've read enough here to know that I can't necessarily go by speakers stated freq response ratings, and that room acoustics, location from the wall, etc., can alter the frequency response of a speaker, but I was shocked to see that Audyssey set the crossover at 150hz for my fronts, which have a 10" woofer and are rated down to 36hz, while the crappy little surrounds were set at 110hz??? ...

I suspect that Audyssey's results match what it measured. When I read your data, my first thought was that the surrounds were placed closer to the wall than the fronts. Thanks for including the pictures, as these confirmed my suspicion. Your surrounds are placed very close to a corner, where they have the benefit of three surfaces concentrating the sound and extending the range. The front appears to be near only one wall, two counting the floor.

Keep in mind that the difference between 120Hz and 150Hz in the crossover is only one step; the Denon does not offer any intermediate points. So if the measurements Audyssey takes show the -3dB rolloff is above 120Hz, the next choice available is 150Hz. It may not be seeing much of a difference between the speakers, but it is just enough to give a much higher crossover.

If you want to experiment, you could try moving the fronts closer to the wall or the corner, to see if this lowers the -3dB point. That probably creates other equalization problems that Audyssey will need to address, but it may move the -3dB point lower so you will be less likely to move higher, localizable frequencies to your sub.
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post #4428 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 04:20 PM
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hey guys...new owner of the 1910....and a HT newbie as well.

Question for the forum.
Is there an easy way to switch from using my HT speakers to using my TV speakers? I know I can go through the menu->HDMI setup, but is there a 1 step approach?

Also is it ok to switch back and forth between my klipsch speakers and tv speakers? Sometimes I dont really care to turn on my entire system and was wondering if there would be any ill effects to making this switch often.

Thanks.
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post #4429 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

What does "the out put begins to flash on and off" mean? Are you saying the front panel display on the 790 flashes on and off? Have you tried the Reset the Microprocessor (p. 64) procedure?

Sorry for the confusion...the flashing is on my projected display (out put of the AVR to my projector). I am having an HDMI video output issue. I hope that clears it up.

Regarding warranty. My unit is a factory refurbished unit and it only has a 90 day warranty from what I can tell. The place I bought it from offers a 1 year warranty but I don't want to send it from idaho to Florida for repair/replacement if all I need is a firmware update to correct the problem.
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post #4430 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavysledz View Post

Sorry for the confusion...the flashing is on my projected display (out put of the AVR to my projector). I am having an HDMI video output issue. I hope that clears it up.

Regarding warranty. My unit is a factory refurbished unit and it only has a 90 day warranty from what I can tell. The place I bought it from offers a 1 year warranty but I don't want to send it from idaho to Florida for repair/replacement if all I need is a firmware update to correct the problem.

Have you check with TELCO ELECTRONICS BOISE, ID 83713 (don't know how close its to you)
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post #4431 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 05:47 PM
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I checked the firmware and its version .66
As far as I know I have no issue with my receiver. But if tomorrow I add some other tv or components and have issue. Then I am stuck with the problem.

I e-mailed them, now if they have a service centre around here, I'll have it done. Receiver is still under warranty.

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post #4432 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ceallred View Post

Any ideas? Am I potentially losing some video quality? I'm hoping it's just a setting I missed because I'm new to this.

Try resetting the microprocessor (p. 64) and see if that helps. Do you have the 790 Resolution set to AUTO or 1080p? It's unlikely that you would notice any difference between 1080i vs. 1080p and if you're sitting more than 8-10' away 1080i/p vs. 720p.

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post #4433 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfsappi View Post

Is there an easy way to switch from using my HT speakers to using my TV speakers? I know I can go through the menu->HDMI setup, but is there a 1 step approach?

Also is it ok to switch back and forth between my klipsch speakers and tv speakers? Sometimes I dont really care to turn on my entire system and was wondering if there would be any ill effects to making this switch often.

Thanks.

Not using the Denon remote, no. However, a Harmony or other universal programmable remote could do it much more easily.

HDMI Standby is designed to allow HDMI sources pass through the AVR while the AVR is in Standby mode so you can use the TV speakers. Is this what you are trying to do?

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post #4434 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavysledz View Post

Sorry for the confusion...the flashing is on my projected display (out put of the AVR to my projector). I am having an HDMI video output issue. I hope that clears it up.

Regarding warranty. My unit is a factory refurbished unit and it only has a 90 day warranty from what I can tell. The place I bought it from offers a 1 year warranty but I don't want to send it from idaho to Florida for repair/replacement if all I need is a firmware update to correct the problem.


Yes, thanks. Did resetting the microprocessor help?

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** Think the AVR is defective?  Reset the microprocessor 4-5 times. 
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post #4435 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Have you check with TELCO ELECTRONICS BOISE, ID 83713 (don't know how close its to you)

I tried to call them but they are closed on the weekends. I will call on Monday. They are about 10 minutes from were I work.
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post #4436 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Yes, thanks. Did resetting the microprocessor help?

I can't do it yet.... the kids have taken the home theatre hostage (X-BOX360) so i will have to try it tomorrow. I need to write down all of my settings right? Otherwise I will lose them on the reset and have to set everything up again from memory.....
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post #4437 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Not using the Denon remote, no. However, a Harmony or other universal programmable remote could do it much more easily.

HDMI Standby is designed to allow HDMI sources pass through the AVR while the AVR is in Standby mode so you can use the TV speakers. Is this what you are trying to do?

Thanks for the response. Yes, thats basically what i am trying to do. unfortunately going through the Denon remote is somewhat of a pain and so wanted to know if there was an easier way around it.

You are saying using an universal remote would help me do that without turning on the AVR at all?
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post #4438 of 9332 Old 01-16-2010, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavysledz View Post

I can't do it yet.... the kids have taken the home theatre hostage (X-BOX360) so i will have to try it tomorrow. I need to write down all of my settings right? Otherwise I will lose them on the reset and have to set everything up again from memory.....

Correct. All settings are returned to factory defaults so it's a good idea to write them all down on paper first. Once done, you'll also have to run AUTO SETUP again as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfsappi View Post

Thanks for the response. Yes, thats basically what i am trying to do. unfortunately going through the Denon remote is somewhat of a pain and so wanted to know if there was an easier way around it.

You are saying using an universal remote would help me do that without turning on the AVR at all?

I'm still confused ... are you trying to change the HDMI Audio Out setting from AMP to TV while the AVR is still ON? If that's the case, then yes, any programmable universal remote could do that for you as there is no button on the Denon remote that will do it.

If you just want to pass the video/audio through the AVR (w/AVR in Standby) the AVR is already designed to do that .. turn HDMI Control ON (p. 28 Owners manual) and set the Standby Source to whatever HDMI jack you want to pass through. Also make sure that HDMI-CEC in your TV is turned OFF as well.

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post #4439 of 9332 Old 01-17-2010, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Correct. All settings are returned to factory defaults so it's a good idea to write them all down on paper first. Once done, you'll also have to run AUTO SETUP again as well.



I'm still confused ... are you trying to change the HDMI Audio Out setting from AMP to TV while the AVR is still ON? If that's the case, then yes, any programmable universal remote could do that for you as there is no button on the Denon remote that will do it.

If you just want to pass the video/audio through the AVR (w/AVR in Standby) the AVR is already designed to do that .. turn HDMI Control ON (p. 28 Owners manual) and set the Standby Source to whatever HDMI jack you want to pass through. Also make sure that HDMI-CEC in your TV is turned OFF as well.

Sorry..I looked at page 28...but still not clear...newbie i guess lol
Can you please explain in laymans what the bolded part means? Thanks.
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post #4440 of 9332 Old 01-17-2010, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfsappi View Post

Sorry..I looked at page 28...but still not clear...newbie i guess lol
Can you please explain in laymans what the bolded part means? Thanks.

Steps for HDMI passthrough you want these settings:

1 - HDMI Control set to ON
2 - HDMI Audio set to AMP (not TV! that setting is for passing audio through when the receiver is on, not standby passthrough)
3 - Set the Standby Source as needed
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