FOR GENERAL FAQ AND DENON SETUP HELP, PLEASE VISIT:
AVR 1909 (aka 789) vs AVR 1910 (aka 790)
Comparison of 1909 vs 1910 from Denon website:http://www.usa.denon.com/ProductDeta...mageField.y=24
1909 rear panel photo:http://www.usa.denon.com/AVR1909_Large_Back.jpg
1910 rear panel photo:http://www.usa.denon.com/AVR1910_Large_Back.jpgStraight to the point:
- 1910 gets an extra HDMI input
(4 vs 3), but drops some legacy inputs (only 2 component video, and only 1 s-video which can ONLY be used with Denon ipod dock control as per NOTE on pg 9 of manual)
- 1910 gets new ABT video processor
which allows for HDMI > HDMI scaling up to 1080p (pg 34 of manual)... but still no OSD overlay.
- 1910 weighs 1.8 lbs less
(23.6 vs 25.4)... but has identical power specs (90W x 7 @ 0.08% THD) so judgement withheld for now as to whether the 1910 has less "real" power.
- 1910 gets Dolby PLIIz
with the ability to reassign the SURR.BACK to FRONT HEIGHT for alternative 7.1 setup.
That's about it! They are almost identical in most other respects.Other relatively minor functional differences:
1. The new video processor apparently also allows the 1910 to handle 1080p component > HDMI conversion (pg 9 of the manual no longer has a footnote specifying this restriction, and even specifically references 1080p component coming out at 1080p). However, the OSD looks basically the same and the overlay restrictions (only on s-vid / composite) are unchanged; apparently you need to step up to 2310/890 level for a real GUI w/ overlay.
2. There are now SEVEN discrete video names to which you can assign inputs: DVD, HDP, TV, CBL/SAT, VCR, DVR, V-AUX (which shares front panel inputs). This means you can hook up more devices with discrete name access (no need to "stack" inputs) and actually use all six hi-def inputs (4 HDMI + 2 component) without needing to borrow the "V-AUX" name from the front panel inputs. Note, however, that there is now only one "audio only" input name (currently "CD" is the only audio only input name).
3. Dynamic EQ gets a "Reference Level Offset" which can be accessed in Surround Parameters; note that, functionally, it is identical to adjusting the "Source Level" for an input, but the easy access in "Surround Parameters" menu means you can make "bass taming" tweaks on the fly more easily.
4. HDMI Control gets a "Standby Source" setting (see pg 28) which allows you to specify which HDMI input is "passed through" to your TV. No need to remember to switch inputs before you power down!
5. The evil two-sided flip-door remote lives on
However, there is now a discrete "Source Select" button on the front (the big button under the D-Pad, used to be the "Restorer" button) which cycles through your inputs (so you don't have to go to the hidden flip door to select a source that didn't make the cut for the front panel).
6. Direct mode "purists" rejoice! You no longer have the option to use Audyssey at all with any Direct mode (regular, pure, or multich) according to the chart on pg 58 of the 1910 manual.
7. The "LPF for LFE" setting has moved from the "Crossover Freq" menu and now lives in the "Bass Setting" menu (pg 26 of manual). This should reduce some confusion (e.g. it's not a crossover!) although the wording in the Denon manual makes it sound like it's an HPF for the subwoofer, and not just the LFE channel.
8. MANUAL EQ adjustment has moved into the "Surround Parameter" menu so it can be accessed on-the-fly more easily
9. The Volume Control can now be optionally set to "absolute" or "relative" value (see pg 30 of manual). So anyone who hates the "negative numbers" style of volume, you can set it to go from 0 to 99!
10. There is a "Zone Rename" function (pg 31) so you can rename "Zone 2" to say "Patio" or whatever.
11. They have apparently removed the HDMI options for "Color Space" and "RGB Range". Ostensibly these were just confusing people and it is now essentially stuck in "auto" mode for color space.
12. New, streamlined front panel layout (fewer buttons, menu/d-pad/return button cluster moves to the middle)
OTHER FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONSQ. What is the difference between the three-digit models (e.g. AVR 790) and the four-digit models (e.g. AVR 1910)?
A: Essentially, NOTHING. Denon puts out two parallel receiver lineups, with four-digit and three-digit model numbers. The four-digit models are generally sold by high end stereo shops and custom installers, and the three-digit models are the "consumer" version sold in retail outlets like Circuit City and Fry's.
However, there is ZERO difference in terms of power, specs, sound quality, build quality, etc. between the two lines. Denon has been doing this for years, it is exactly analagous to the Yamaha HTR and RX-V parallel receiver lines.
There will usually be one or two minor differences to differentiate the three-digit and four-digit models. There is typically a slight cosmetic difference between the two lines, and different remotes.
In the specific case of the 1910 vs. 790, the only differences (besides the cosmetics) is:
1. the 1910 has A/B speaker switching, whereas the 790 only has "A" front speakers
2. the 1910 adds a "room to room" remote control jack for wired control from Zone 2
In all other respects, the 1910 and 790 are IDENTICAL.
For more info, please see the Denon Model Numbers page at batpigworld:http://batpigworld.com/models.htmlQ. What do I gain from stepping up to the 1910/790, as opposed to just buying the lower-priced AVR 1610/590 model?
A: The 1610 (aka 590) is a very full-featured entry level model that will be sufficient for most people. It has 3 HDMI inputs, full HD audio decoding, analog > digital video conversion (so you can run one HDMI cable to your TV for all sources), and the full "Audyssey suite" of MultEQ + Dynamic EQ + Dynamic Volume. The 1910 / 790 is very similar and built on the same platform / chassis. They have similar amp sections, identical processing and DAC's, etc.
The following are the "step up" features you gain from going to 1910 (aka 790):
1. The 1910 is a full 7.1 receiver. The 1610/590 is a 5.1 receiver (5 amps built in) but can be expanded to 7.1 using the "Rear/Height" pre-outs to add an external amplifier. You have your choice of 7.1 expansion methods, either PLIIx (standard 7.1 with 2 "rear" channels) or PLIIz (5.1 + 2 "height" channels).
2. The 1910 has a 4th HDMI input, and adds an extra coaxial digital audio input
3. The 1910 is spec'd for more power, 90W x 7
4. The 1910 has full video scaling, of both analog and digital video, up to 1080p, and these video settings are adjustable by input. The 1610 has no scaling, and no adjustable settings; it simply automatically converts analog video to digital, and deinterlaces 480i > 480p when doing so. Everything else goes out at the same resolution it came in.
5. The 1910 has 2-zone/2-source capability (no multizone on 1610), and the 1910 (not 790, see above) has a "room to room" remote control jack for wired control from Zone 2.
6. The 1910 has extra inputs: a Sirius input jack, a "CD" analog input, and 7.1 multichannel analog inputs
7. The 1910 has two switched power outlets on the backQ. What do I gain from stepping up to the 2310/890 model?
A: The 2310/890 model's major features are:
1. A 5th HDMI input
2. A slightly better amp section
3. A dedicate Phono input with pre-amp
4. usable S-video inputs (i.e. not just for the Denon ipod dock) on the rear, and front panel optical / s-video input
5. high-end ABT-2010 video processor with full color GUI, overlay over HDMI, HDMI>HDMI processing, and picture controls with brightness/contrast/hue/saturation and noise reduction settings which are memorized by input (allowing for independent source calibration even when running one HDMI cable to TV)
6. the 2310CI model (not the 890) will also include an RS-232 port, second smaller Zone 2 remote, and a 12V trigger output for custom integration ("CI") functionality.