Official Harman Kardon AVR 1600/2600/3600 owner's thread - Page 51 - AVS Forum
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post #1501 of 2835 Old 11-29-2010, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by blumonk View Post


Send it back.
I have a 3600 connected to a Panasonic plasma and never had a problem like that. If it works with your Visio and not the Samsung, it must be the recieiver.

That logic seems backwards (unless you're being funny ) - if it was the receiver shouldn't the problem be there regardless of the TV?

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post #1502 of 2835 Old 11-29-2010, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mgandalf View Post

Well, I spoke with them. The tech is having me reset it. Once that's done, I really get the feeling they'll tell me I need to talk with the TV manufacturer that it's their problem. I just love it when one manufacturer pushes crap off onto another. It's the consumer who always looses.

- Mark.

Are you following the proper start up sequence? Display > AVR > Source ... that fixed every problem I ever had!

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post #1503 of 2835 Old 11-30-2010, 12:03 PM
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Looking forward to an informed answer on this!

I just bought a 2600 on the weekend and would really like to know if this feature does room EQ, or if it only automates the settings available in the user menu?

On the first go, I'm not real impressed...it set the distance of my front-left at 10' and front-right at 1', and front-left level at +7 and front-right at -4 ! I'm embarrassed to say that it took me a whole day to realize the output wasn't balanced. I will update the firmware (it's at 1.0) and try again.


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Originally Posted by PTAaron View Post

Thanks for the reply M Code!

Next question (I don't remember seeing this answered back when I read the whole thread): what exactly does the EQ part of EzSet/EQ do its EQ to? ... and what is it doing to it? I'm assuming it means more than just matching the levels when I ask this.

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post #1504 of 2835 Old 11-30-2010, 03:52 PM
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I'm a happy owner of a factory refurbished avr2600 that I picked on on ebay for a very reasonable amount a few months ago. I was thinking about getting another one to replace my AVR-340 but when I began looking the prices had skyrocketed. I don't want to violate AVS policies but it is easily twice as expensive to buy one today.

What gives. I love the receiver and will end up buying one (only HK for me) but can't understand how the situation changed so quickly
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post #1505 of 2835 Old 11-30-2010, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyG View Post

On the first go, I'm not real impressed...

Seems I found my problem. I tried it again tonight and first time I got different - but still very wonky - results. Started reading the manual and took note that it warns against running Ezset with anything other than a 5.1 or 7.1 system. I have Infinity Interlude 60 powered tower speakers and normally use their own internal crossover, running them as large with no sub. So instead, I hooked them up in the more traditional way as stand-alone daisy-chained subs and re-ran Ezset. This time, the levels and distances are right on the money!

Too bad you can't tell the system up-front that you have a 5.0 system but now that I have a receiver with proper crossovers and bass management for all channels, this config is likely the best anyway.

Was considering taking it back but now no way! I've had HK in the past (used to be a dealer, actually) and I'm very happy to have the familiar warmth and natural sound of HK back!
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post #1506 of 2835 Old 12-01-2010, 03:28 PM
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Hey guys I've been having some problems with my AVR 1600 and hopefully you guys can help me.

The audio on the receiver works great, I plug any HDMI into the 3 available slots and it will play the sound. The problem is the video where the HDMI out does not seem to work properly. All I get is a black screen with full audio available. The funny thing is, when I first plug in a device the TV will flash and I will have visuals for only a split second before it turns back to black.

Right now I've had to plug in devices directly to my TV (to get video) and route composite cables into the receiver (to get audio).

My TV is a bit old and can only do 1080i if it makes a difference. Are there any settings I need to change on the receiver?

Thanks
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post #1507 of 2835 Old 12-01-2010, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghiness View Post

Hey guys I've been having some problems with my AVR 1600 and hopefully you guys can help me.

The audio on the receiver works great, I plug any HDMI into the 3 available slots and it will play the sound. The problem is the video where the HDMI out does not seem to work properly. All I get is a black screen with full audio available. The funny thing is, when I first plug in a device the TV will flash and I will have visuals for only a split second before it turns back to black.

Right now I've had to plug in devices directly to my TV (to get video) and route composite cables into the receiver (to get audio).

My TV is a bit old and can only do 1080i if it makes a difference. Are there any settings I need to change on the receiver?

Thanks

My best guess is that the AVR is out putting 1080P, and I don't think the 1600 has the ability to do video bypass.
And that is why you need to conect the AVR to the TV. But Hey, now you have that reason you have needed to go out and buy that new plasma!

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post #1508 of 2835 Old 12-01-2010, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talon884 View Post

My best guess is that the AVR is out putting 1080P, and I don't think the 1600 has the ability to do video bypass.
And that is why you need to conect the AVR to the TV. But Hey, now you have that reason you have needed to go out and buy that new plasma!

The 1600 does NO upscaling, it only converts the analog input to HDMI Out..
If 720p Component In, then 720p HDMI Out..
For HDMI sources whatever comes in, goes out...
If 1080p HDMI IN to the 1600 then 1080p HDMI out from the 1600 to the video display, if the display does not have 1080p capability it will downconvert to 1080i ...

Just my $0.02...
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post #1509 of 2835 Old 12-01-2010, 10:20 PM
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So far I'm enjoying setting it up and connecting all my toys to it.
I'm running Paradigm Monitor 7s and CC-390, a Velodyne 12 Sbwfr...
in any case, I upgraded from a 2005 Yamaha RX-V657 which had some nice DSP settings such as Sci-Fi etc..The HK doesn't have anything like it.
I have experimented with the dolby volume and I do find it that improves the dialogue in movies a bit but the CC-390 is a good speaker.
I'm not completely clear as to the tone controls but I do know to trim the LFE a bit...what settings have given you the best results to improve the dialogue in movies? I read somewhere that setting the CC-390 to "large" would give it more clarity,even though just about everyone in this forum says that all speakers should be set to small...anyone tried this?
I wish the HK had a standy HDMI pass thru...
and finally...how does this receiver compares in terms of sound quality to the ONKYO TX-SR608 everyone is raving about? What would constitute a real jump in power and built from the HK? I love the style and simplicity...just wondering if I should keep it...
thanks
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post #1510 of 2835 Old 12-02-2010, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Code View Post

The 1600 does NO upscaling, it only converts the analog input to HDMI Out..
If 720p Component In, then 720p HDMI Out..
For HDMI sources whatever comes in, goes out...
If 1080p HDMI IN to the 1600 then 1080p HDMI out from the 1600 to the video display, if the display does not have 1080p capability it will downconvert to 1080i ...

Just my $0.02...

So it's most likely my receiver that has issue? I don't live in the US so I don't think they accept any warranty here.
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post #1511 of 2835 Old 12-02-2010, 10:34 AM
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How is the virtual speaker function? Someone have tryed it
Is an old technology, but i think is still good.


I am next to buy a Stereo 3490. Is good in music?
Or better buy marantz (the best in music)

The 3490 have OSD and calibrazion?
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post #1512 of 2835 Old 12-02-2010, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plata90 View Post

How is the virtual speaker function? Someone have tryed it
Is an old technology, but i think is still good.


I am next to buy a Stereo 3490. Is good in music?
Or better buy marantz (the best in music)

The 3490 have OSD and calibrazion?

Yes on your first two questions. No on your last question. And I can't understand why people think the Marantz is the end all of music reproduction.
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post #1513 of 2835 Old 12-02-2010, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantom52 View Post

Yes on your first two questions. No on your last question. And I can't understand why people think the Marantz is the end all of music reproduction.

I have had a Marantz SR5004: anbsolutely dfantastic highs very soft and very good dynamic

You tryed virtual speakers? sounds good like SRS WOW ecc?
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post #1514 of 2835 Old 12-05-2010, 12:54 PM
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Hey guys I'm some what new to the Home Theater scene. Last year I finally upgraded to a powered subwoofer (Premier Acoustic PA-120SUB Titanium) and now I am taking the plunge and upgrading all my speakers. I am going with the Polk Audio CSI A6, RTI A7 x2, and FXI A4. I currently have an Onkyo TX-SR506 and was looking on amazon at AVR's and saw these Harmon Kardon's on sale and I know H/K = quality, but from what I have been reading on this thread I am a bit scared at spending $600+ on a receiver and having these audio and video issues. I have a PS3, Xbox360, TiVo HD, and DirecTV HR24 HD DVR and it seems like people are having problems with all these products being connected to the 2600 and 3600.

Should I really be this concerned about the "screen blackouts" and "audio dropouts" I have been reading about on here?

Should I just use my current AVR until H/K releases a FW update to possibly fix these issues?

Thx in advance.
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post #1515 of 2835 Old 12-05-2010, 04:36 PM
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I figure this is as good of a place as any to ask this question:

Which is a "better" way to do the speaker calibration with my 3600 (when the new one arrives):

1) Start with the "factory fresh" receiver and a SPL meter. Turn up the volume until I hit 75dB with a test tone from the front left speaker - and then set the other speakers accordingly.

2) Run the EZSet/EQ first (even though we still don't have a clear answer as to what the "EQ" part of it does) ... THEN override the level settings to use a SPL meter to adjust the levels - starting with a level where the front left hits 75dB and match the others.

3) Let the EZSet/EQ do everything.

The reason I ask is that when EZSet/EQ ran the last time it ended up putting my right and left front speakers at +2 or +3 with the center at -2 or -3. It seems like it would be "better" to have the front right and left speakers at 0 - which would be achievable by using a SPL meter and setting the "correct" way. I assume the EQ part of EZset/EQ does something to even out the frequency response in the room - so that is why I am considering the idea of running it first but changing the levels after.

What do you guys think?

-Aaron
My Basement Movie Room and Bar/Game Room - actually doing stuff now... please comment!
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post #1516 of 2835 Old 12-06-2010, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talon884 View Post

Are you following the proper start up sequence? Display > AVR > Source ... that fixed every problem I ever had!

I've tried several sequences. I called back and spoke with a level 2 tech who thought the hdmi monitor port may be bad. After some testing, I'm inclined to agree. I've RMA'ed the unit.

- Mark.
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post #1517 of 2835 Old 12-07-2010, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proghog View Post

Hey guys I'm some what new to the Home Theater scene. Last year I finally upgraded to a powered subwoofer (Premier Acoustic PA-120SUB Titanium) and now I am taking the plunge and upgrading all my speakers. I am going with the Polk Audio CSI A6, RTI A7 x2, and FXI A4. I currently have an Onkyo TX-SR506 and was looking on amazon at AVR's and saw these Harmon Kardon's on sale and I know H/K = quality, but from what I have been reading on this thread I am a bit scared at spending $600+ on a receiver and having these audio and video issues. I have a PS3, Xbox360, TiVo HD, and DirecTV HR24 HD DVR and it seems like people are having problems with all these products being connected to the 2600 and 3600.

Should I really be this concerned about the "screen blackouts" and "audio dropouts" I have been reading about on here?

Should I just use my current AVR until H/K releases a FW update to possibly fix these issues?

Thx in advance.

I wouldn't have any worries. I've had my 3600 for over a year now with no problems. It does have sound delay for a half second anytime you switch sound formats, but I've grown used to it. I can post up a video if you would like to see what I'm talking about. Only other issue was I used to experience sound delays when using HDMI bypass. Simple solution is to not use it. It seemed the sound delay would increase the longer I watched a video. Simply allowing the reciever to handle the video feed corrected this for me.

I've never experienced any video or audio drop outs. I have a 7.1 system. Xbox 360, wii, uverse, and panasonic bluray player all work fine through HDMI. Well all except wii of course, since that doesn't have HDMI. Have the HDMI out hooked up to a splitter. One 9fh cable to a samsung dlp televison, and another 35ft cable to a epson 8350 projector. Both get a beautiful picture.
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post #1518 of 2835 Old 12-08-2010, 06:59 AM
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Thanks for sharing your experiences, buster. I'm thinking of getting an H/K soon, but wasn't sure what to think about the audio drop outs people are posting. Currently, I'm thinking of going w/ the H/K AVR 2600 or the Onkyo TX-SR608, which considerably cheaper but may be a good value for what you get.

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post #1519 of 2835 Old 12-08-2010, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTAaron View Post

I figure this is as good of a place as any to ask this question:

Which is a "better" way to do the speaker calibration with my 3600 (when the new one arrives):

1) Start with the "factory fresh" receiver and a SPL meter. Turn up the volume until I hit 75dB with a test tone from the front left speaker - and then set the other speakers accordingly.

2) Run the EZSet/EQ first (even though we still don't have a clear answer as to what the "EQ" part of it does) ... THEN override the level settings to use a SPL meter to adjust the levels - starting with a level where the front left hits 75dB and match the others.

3) Let the EZSet/EQ do everything.

The reason I ask is that when EZSet/EQ ran the last time it ended up putting my right and left front speakers at +2 or +3 with the center at -2 or -3. It seems like it would be "better" to have the front right and left speakers at 0 - which would be achievable by using a SPL meter and setting the "correct" way. I assume the EQ part of EZset/EQ does something to even out the frequency response in the room - so that is why I am considering the idea of running it first but changing the levels after.

What do you guys think?

I always, always use my SPL meter, a Laser level (For Speaker positioning) and tape measure (Distance) for setup.

If the levels and distance are setup up wonky by EzSet/EQ then the "EQ" portion was probably also setup wonky and does NOT reflect a properly adjusted room EQ.

I have always found the EQ portion to ruin the SQ rather than make it better.
At least in my opinion.

So, Reset the HK, start measuring and manually input your values.
Listen for a while, then run EZSet/EQ.
Go back and fourth between EZset on and EZset off.
I'll bet you like your own settings much better.

Test,

Mpray1983- "User error due to sneeze or fart occurred during measurement"
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post #1520 of 2835 Old 12-08-2010, 11:10 AM
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I agreed. The EzSet/EQ feature sucks. It never works properly. I often manually adjust HT speaker settings with a SPL meter. The manual settings always sound better in my system. The MCACC in Pioneer works far better but I ended up with 2600 because of the great HK sound signature.
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post #1521 of 2835 Old 12-08-2010, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by test4echo101 View Post

I always, always use my SPL meter, a Laser level (For Speaker positioning) and tape measure (Distance) for setup.

If the levels and distance are setup up wonky by EzSet/EQ then the "EQ" portion was probably also setup wonky and does NOT reflect a properly adjusted room EQ.

I have always found the EQ portion to ruin the SQ rather than make it better.
At least in my opinion.

So, Reset the HK, start measuring and manually input your values.
Listen for a while, then run EZSet/EQ.
Go back and fourth between EZset on and EZset off.
I'll bet you like your own settings much better.

Test,

Thanks for the reply!
I never tried the 3600 out before running the EZSet/EQ - I was just in a rush to play with it! I just received my replacement today, so I will give it a go without the EQ first, and see what happens. It actually got my distances dead on (or as close as it can get with the whole number intervals - I miss more precise input options on my old 635!).

---------------------------

On a related note - HK sent me a brand new in the box 3600 as a replacement for the refurbished 3600 I sent in to them! NICE!! I definitely didn't expect that, so it was a really nice surprise.

-Aaron
My Basement Movie Room and Bar/Game Room - actually doing stuff now... please comment!
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post #1522 of 2835 Old 12-08-2010, 12:57 PM
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I am about to start my home theatre adventure (no previous experience except a JVC avr my bro had in 1994). All I know is what I have read here for last 4-5 days.

I just purchased PolkAudio Monitor 70 (x2) and CS2 center to start off.


I will pick up the rear 2 speakers and sub in the near future to complete the 5.1. I will be connecting Panasonic Plasma + PVR + PS3 Slim to the AVR.

Would HK 2600 match well with the PA M70 speakers I have?
Would HK 2600 be able to power the PA M70 speakers I have?
If answers to either above ques is “No”, please explain….

Post# 257 or #258 mentioned turning of VIERALINK on the Panasonic TV since it caused some issue with input selection. Is that a one off issue or does it affects all HK2600? I use VIERALINK to control PS3.

Thanks in advance.
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post #1523 of 2835 Old 12-08-2010, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake9 View Post

Thanks for sharing your experiences, buster. I'm thinking of getting an H/K soon, but wasn't sure what to think about the audio drop outs people are posting. Currently, I'm thinking of going w/ the H/K AVR 2600 or the Onkyo TX-SR608, which considerably cheaper but may be a good value for what you get.

I have had a h/k 354 for 2 years and now a h/k 3600 for a few months and could not be happier! I have never had the drop outs that others mention other than when I first set up the 3600. I fixed that by setting the out put on the cable box (Scientific Atlanta) to out put 1080 at all times and never a drop out again.


One more thing ... All ways use the start up sequence listed in the manual and you will be good to go!

Talon884
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post #1524 of 2835 Old 12-08-2010, 09:40 PM
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Did they change the colors on the 3600???
I unpacked my new 3600 (mfg date October 2010) an the lower half of the front panel is SILVER! On the 3600 I sent back last week the panel was black/gunmetal!

I guess that explains why the front port covers they sent me with my old 3600 didn't match the rest of the receiver!

Very strange... Unfortunately I kind of preferred the darker color of my old one even though I initially didn't really "love it".

Also odd: Initially when I fired it up the colors on screen were VERY off (missing blue) - but things look normal now.

-Aaron
My Basement Movie Room and Bar/Game Room - actually doing stuff now... please comment!
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post #1525 of 2835 Old 12-08-2010, 09:58 PM
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Allow me to provide pictures:
New AVR-3600 built in 10/10:


Old AVR build date of 9/09:


-Aaron
My Basement Movie Room and Bar/Game Room - actually doing stuff now... please comment!
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post #1526 of 2835 Old 12-09-2010, 07:34 AM
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Just got a 1600 from ebay (Harmon Factory Store) and having some of the same HDMI connection issues I see posted on here. I will lose picture and sound for no reason and have to unplug and replug in the hdmi connections. I called Harmon and they told me to reset the system and update the firm ware. Also I am getting a new 3d plasma, but just read that this rec. will not support 3d. Would the signal not pass through to the tv, or should I just return the rec and go with the 2600?
Thanks, David
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post #1527 of 2835 Old 12-09-2010, 07:52 AM
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I think the 1600 will not pass 1080i/p. And I think with the firmware update for HDMI 1.4a (which is the standard to pass 3D signals) is only available on the 2600 and up. So, yes you might you want to consider the 2600 if you want 3D.

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post #1528 of 2835 Old 12-09-2010, 07:56 AM
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Thanks. The more I read that seems to be the way to go.
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post #1529 of 2835 Old 12-09-2010, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTAaron View Post

Thanks for the reply!
I never tried the 3600 out before running the EZSet/EQ - I was just in a rush to play with it! I just received my replacement today, so I will give it a go without the EQ first, and see what happens. It actually got my distances dead on (or as close as it can get with the whole number intervals - I miss more precise input options on my old 635!).

---------------------------

On a related note - HK sent me a brand new in the box 3600 as a replacement for the refurbished 3600 I sent in to them! NICE!! I definitely didn't expect that, so it was a really nice surprise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PTAaron View Post

Thanks for the reply!
I never tried the 3600 out before running the EZSet/EQ - I was just in a rush to play with it! I just received my replacement today, so I will give it a go without the EQ first, and see what happens. It actually got my distances dead on (or as close as it can get with the whole number intervals - I miss more precise input options on my old 635!).

---------------------------

On a related note - HK sent me a brand new in the box 3600 as a replacement for the refurbished 3600 I sent in to them! NICE!! I definitely didn't expect that, so it was a really nice surprise.

Here is the way I set everything up to be as perfect as I can get it.


First off, get that SPL meter.
Get a cheap picture hanging laser level. It throws a straight line from the top of your speakers (or bottom for surrounds) to the listening position.
Make sure you square the laser level on top for your speakers.

Use a camera tripod or Microphone stand and place it in your listening position. Attach the SPL meter to the stand, use duck tape if you have to. Make sure its pointed up at the ceiling and level with where your ears would be.

Position your speakers:
Use the laser level on top of your mains and center channel. Make SURE the level is squared to the top of your speakers.
Then move the speaker itself until the laser level is centered with the SPL meter taped (or screwed in) to your preferred stand.

Do this for the front 3 speakers.
The surrounds are more tricky as there probably on the wall and no room for the level.
No problem, just eyeball the surrounds.

Once all your speakers are pointed at the SPL meter, use your tape measure to find out distance for all speakers.
Be as accurate as your AVR will allow.

Speaker levels:

Set your SPL meter to C weighted slow response.
Use your AVR's test tones (or Avia or DVE) set to manual.

Play your front left speaker tone and watch the SPL meter.
Use the AVR's leveling menu to adjust the front left speaker so it reads 75db.
Move to the next speaker and do the same.
Do that until all speaker's except SUB are leveled at 75db.

Exit your AVR's menu.

Play a really good music Blu ray or DVD. John Meyer's "Where the light is" is good but you can choose anything you like.

Now, place the sub next to the SPL stand you made.
Turn the subs crossover to all the way up.
Turn the volume to Half or just a little under half.
Crawl around the room (not stand) and try and find the spot where your Sub sounds best.

When you find it, place the sub where your body was.

Then, go back into the AVR's Menu to the adjust distance sliders.
Use tape measure on sub and input the value.

Then, go to the levels sliders in your AVR .
Run the Sub test tone manually until it reads 75 db's.

Thats it your done.

You may want to boost the center and adjust sub later if you find it lacking.

This process in my HK 254 is awesome. Beats EZset/EQ anyday.

You may also want to treat your room as well. To many hard surfaces is no good.

Test,

Mpray1983- "User error due to sneeze or fart occurred during measurement"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by test4echo101 View Post


Here is the way I set everything up to be as perfect as I can get it.

First off, get that SPL meter.
Get a cheap picture hanging laser level. It throws a straight line from the top of your speakers (or bottom for surrounds) to the listening position.
Make sure you square the laser level on top for your speakers.

Use a camera tripod or Microphone stand and place it in your listening position. Attach the SPL meter to the stand, use duck tape if you have to. Make sure its pointed up at the ceiling and level with where your ears would be.

Position your speakers:
Use the laser level on top of your mains and center channel. Make SURE the level is squared to the top of your speakers.
Then move the speaker itself until the laser level is centered with the SPL meter taped (or screwed in) to your preferred stand.

Do this for the front 3 speakers.
The surrounds are more tricky as there probably on the wall and no room for the level.
No problem, just eyeball the surrounds.

Once all your speakers are pointed at the SPL meter, use your tape measure to find out distance for all speakers.
Be as accurate as your AVR will allow.

Speaker levels:

Set your SPL meter to C weighted slow response.
Use your AVR's test tones (or Avia or DVE) set to manual.

Play your front left speaker tone and watch the SPL meter.
Use the AVR's leveling menu to adjust the front left speaker so it reads 75db.
Move to the next speaker and do the same.
Do that until all speaker's except SUB are leveled at 75db.

Exit your AVR's menu.

Play a really good music Blu ray or DVD. John Meyer's "Where the light is" is good but you can choose anything you like.

Now, place the sub next to the SPL stand you made.
Turn the subs crossover to all the way up.
Turn the volume to Half or just a little under half.
Crawl around the room (not stand) and try and find the spot where your Sub sounds best.

When you find it, place the sub where your body was.

Then, go back into the AVR's Menu to the adjust distance sliders.
Use tape measure on sub and input the value.

Then, go to the levels sliders in your AVR .
Run the Sub test tone manually until it reads 75 db's.

Thats it your done.

You may want to boost the center and adjust sub later if you find it lacking.

This process in my HK 254 is awesome. Beats EZset/EQ anyday.

You may also want to treat your room as well. To many hard surfaces is no good.

Test,

Excellent description for the procedure!
I already have the SPL meter and a tripod mount for it the rest will be easy.

-Aaron
My Basement Movie Room and Bar/Game Room - actually doing stuff now... please comment!
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