Official marantz nr1501 slim receiver owners' thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #361 of 375 Old 08-19-2015, 08:00 AM
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Also I have started the unit in service mode but I have no idea what I am looking for. I also don't know how to exit service mode
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post #362 of 375 Old 09-18-2015, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Foppel View Post
If you have a bad sound at the start procedure you can add a new capacitor (1000uF/10V) between GND and the output of the IC1606. If you are not good in soldering you can ask somebody. It will take only a few minutes. The IC1606 is on the top side of the board.

best regards - Foppel
@Foppel @twowheelin

I have just attempted this fix and it seems to be working but I just had a question.

From what you've said it sounds like the cap should be soldered across pin 1+2 of the IC. I looked at the datasheet to know which pins are which but when I looked at twowheelin's pics, it looks like the +ve leg of your new cap isn't connected to a pin but to the piece of metal on the opposite side of the pins (is this a common ground?). I had a real problem trying to solder to this bit of metal. In the end I just tucked the leg in the tiny gap between the piece of metal and the circuit board, plus a bit of solder to hold it.

As I said at the beginning, initial tests seem promising but I have started from fully cold yet, so....

Hope you're still active on this forum so you can put my mind to rest

Thanks for all the info too.
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post #363 of 375 Old 09-19-2015, 06:28 PM
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The large pin on one side of the chip is ground and attached to the ground plane on the pcb. That is why it's hard to heat up with the solder iron. I am still having great results with my 1501 so this repair is a 'keeper'.
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post #364 of 375 Old 10-14-2015, 10:22 AM
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I've just tried this solution. Its the first bit of soldering I've ever done and its worked! Thanks for tip, the distortion was getting worse and taking longer to clear after turning it on. Now it works perfectly from cold. And it cost next to nothing.
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post #365 of 375 Old 12-13-2015, 10:40 AM
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foppel. just a big thanks for your suggestion, i was going to bin the nr1501 it was popping
really badly from cold start. i did your suggested repair:
"If you have a bad sound at the start procedure you can add a new capacitor (1000uF/10V) between GND and the output of the IC1606. If you are not good in soldering you can ask somebody. It will take only a few minutes. The IC1606 is on the top side of the board."
and it fixed it great.
many many thanks. i joined the forum just to send you this.
merry xmas mate
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post #366 of 375 Old 12-24-2015, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Warburton View Post
foppel. just a big thanks for your suggestion, i was going to bin the nr1501 it was popping
really badly from cold start. i did your suggested repair:
"If you have a bad sound at the start procedure you can add a new capacitor (1000uF/10V) between GND and the output of the IC1606. If you are not good in soldering you can ask somebody. It will take only a few minutes. The IC1606 is on the top side of the board."
and it fixed it great.
many many thanks. i joined the forum just to send you this.
merry xmas mate
Heya guys,

Quick question around the above mentioned fix.I don't have much experience with soldering but I will attempt this nonetheless

Should the + ve of the new cap be attached onto the piece of metal ( - ve onto the first leg ) ? Just to be on the safe side

thanks a mil
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post #367 of 375 Old 01-07-2016, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foppel View Post
Hey good work twowheelin. It's a really cheap 50 Cent fix If you have a scope you can put the probe at the output of the IC1606. Then you can see a lot of ripple there. The problem are the caps C1604 100uF/6.3V (electrolytic) and C1603 100nF (ceramic). The 1,8V output is used to power the Audio Decoder DSP IC1601 (CS497004). The caps in this device are all "Badcaps" from SamWha

If you have a problem with the device but you dont know how to troubleshoot. Start with the Service mode.

1. Power on the Receiver
2. Hit the Button "Menu" and "Cursor right" for 5 seconds
3. Then with the Enter Button you can read the service and firmware information
4. If you had an error it will displayed at the last point after the Full LCD Check

CHK DSP -> HDMI Board -> Power Regulators 5V, 3.3V, 1.8V, 1.2V
CHK EEP -> Mainboard EEPROM IC103
CHK CPU -> MAIN/HDMI Board -> 3.3V Supply, Communication error between Sub and Main CPU

best regards - Foppel
Foppel - Are you saying that you agree the 1000uf patch on the IC is the shortcut/workaround for those two bad caps (1604/1603) or are you saying that they still need to be replaced because they are causing a different problem??
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post #368 of 375 Old 01-28-2016, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by twowheelin View Post
The repair is working great after 2 widely separated listening sessions. (8+ hours 'off-time'...) The snaps and pops are completely gone on power up. I have not experienced a sound cut-off when changing channels yet, so I'm hoping that's fixed too!

For anyone that is having this problem, the datasheet for the IC1606 (IL1117-1.8) is available from multiple sources via Google. It's a 3 pin regulator, so you're basically connecting the new cap across pins 1 & 2. My soldering iron tip was a little rough for this size of circuits, but it worked out in the end.

Thanks again Foppel!
I am attempting this repair but I am a little confused on you picture it looks like the capacitor lead going to terminal 1 goes to something else on the board, is this the case or is it just the wire.
Is the diagram I have attached correct?
Thanks, Again all
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post #369 of 375 Old 02-01-2016, 09:23 AM
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Or is it more like this with the capacitor across 1 and 2

Thanks
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post #370 of 375 Old 02-29-2016, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Rigg View Post
Or is it more like this with the capacitor across 1 and 2

Thanks
From the schematic and description it should be connected between pin 2 (output) and ground. With the positive lead on the output and the negative lead on ground...

After further review both of your pictures are equivalent! The wide heat sink pin is connected to pin 2....

I am getting a used NR1501 in a few days.

Pinout from the schematic:
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In twowheelin's picture it initially looks like pin 1 and pin 3 are shorted via the pin 3 board trace... I think after understanding that the heat sink is also pin 2 there must be an insulator under the pin3 board trace in his picture.

On a side note:

I the NR1501 used and cheap so I plan on also modifying it to replace the composite video I/O with peouts for all of the channels. That way I have a small slimline 7.1 decoder that I can link to my larger atmos receiver.... The project will be tested over the next few weeks.

-Rich

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Last edited by rfb6435; 02-29-2016 at 09:55 PM.
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post #371 of 375 Old 02-29-2016, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheelin View Post
The repair is working great after 2 widely separated listening sessions. (8+ hours 'off-time'...) The snaps and pops are completely gone on power up. I have not experienced a sound cut-off when changing channels yet, so I'm hoping that's fixed too!

For anyone that is having this problem, the datasheet for the IC1606 (IL1117-1.8) is available from multiple sources via Google. It's a 3 pin regulator, so you're basically connecting the new cap across pins 1 & 2. My soldering iron tip was a little rough for this size of circuits, but it worked out in the end.

Thanks again Foppel!
twowheelin,

Is there insulating material between the bare wire and board connecting to pin 1 to the capacitor here?



It looks like a short where you are connecting pins 1 and 3 but after review that must be an insulator not not connected to the board right?

Thanks,

Rich

Marantz SR7009 Atmos 9.2.2 or 7.2.6 (scAtmos).
Adcom GFA-7500 150W/ch (WL/L/C/R/WR), Adcom GFA-7607 125W/ch (TMR/SR/SBR/SBL/SL/TML)
HTD L3 Tower L/R/C, HTD L2 Tower WL/WR, HTD Dual 12" Subs
HTD L2 Bookshelf SBL/SBR, HTD 6.5" Angled Ceiling FHL/FHR/SL/SR, HTD 8" Ceiling TML/TMR
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Last edited by rfb6435; 02-29-2016 at 09:57 PM.
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post #372 of 375 Old 03-05-2016, 03:22 PM
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<i>1) when switched to DSS (cable TV), I get no sound and no video to TV. The HMDI blue light blinks in front of the marantz display (what does that mean? all other working source has a solid blue HDMI link light in front).<br>
when I plugged the cable box via HDMI directly to the TV, everything works.</i><br><br>
I have the same problem with a Verizon FIOS cable box with the additional problem that the 1501 was making the cable box cycle repeatedly. After confirming many times that it was not connected to the 1501's output, I finally gave up trying to make it work. I bought an HDMI switch. My work-around:<br>
- Cable box to HDMI switch input #1<br>
- Cable box sound into 1501's aux sound input<br>
- DVD &amp; Roku into 1501<br>
- 1501 output to HDMI switch input #2<br>
- HDMI switch output to TV<br><br>
It works, but it can be a royal PIA. HDMI switch was advertised to auto switch with change in input. It doesn't. But although I must manually switch it, it does solve the apparent incompatibility between the cable box &amp; 1501.
I just started having troubles with the HDMI DSS input on my NR1501.

I just discovered that it was due to video convert set to CVBS, vs. AUTO in System Setup menu.

I must have changed this at some point and forgotten about it. It seems like the BluRay player I had hooked up to the DSS HDMI port didn't like being told to upconvert. Maybe this will help y'all.
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post #373 of 375 Old 06-29-2016, 07:33 AM
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Hi, NR1501 owners ! I have repaired a NR1501 who had drop sounds with the Foppel 's method like this on the picture and it works fine,
thank's Foppel. But, i wanted to repair a second NR1501 who had not sound at all, except with analog devices in "pure direct" mode and it didn't work better. Do you know if i replace the voltage regulator ( IL1117-1.8), it will work fine ? Or it's an other issue ?


Regards, manureva45 from France with his bad english
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post #374 of 375 Old 07-02-2016, 06:26 AM
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up ("en haut" in french)

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post #375 of 375 Old 10-30-2016, 07:45 AM
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Thank you Foppel and twowheelin!!!!

I found this thread looking for a fix to my 1501 popping and crackling. It had gotten so bad that we had to turn it on and off several times before it would even start the popping and crackling. Then it would do the popping and crackling for about 15 minutes before we had sound. The capacitor fixed it and only cost me $2.00. I was all ready to spend $500 on a new Denon.

Thanks!!!
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