Official marantz nr1501 slim receiver owners' thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #361 of 369 Old 08-19-2015, 08:00 AM
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Also I have started the unit in service mode but I have no idea what I am looking for. I also don't know how to exit service mode
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post #362 of 369 Old 09-18-2015, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Foppel View Post
If you have a bad sound at the start procedure you can add a new capacitor (1000uF/10V) between GND and the output of the IC1606. If you are not good in soldering you can ask somebody. It will take only a few minutes. The IC1606 is on the top side of the board.

best regards - Foppel
@Foppel @twowheelin

I have just attempted this fix and it seems to be working but I just had a question.

From what you've said it sounds like the cap should be soldered across pin 1+2 of the IC. I looked at the datasheet to know which pins are which but when I looked at twowheelin's pics, it looks like the +ve leg of your new cap isn't connected to a pin but to the piece of metal on the opposite side of the pins (is this a common ground?). I had a real problem trying to solder to this bit of metal. In the end I just tucked the leg in the tiny gap between the piece of metal and the circuit board, plus a bit of solder to hold it.

As I said at the beginning, initial tests seem promising but I have started from fully cold yet, so....

Hope you're still active on this forum so you can put my mind to rest

Thanks for all the info too.
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post #363 of 369 Old 09-19-2015, 06:28 PM
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The large pin on one side of the chip is ground and attached to the ground plane on the pcb. That is why it's hard to heat up with the solder iron. I am still having great results with my 1501 so this repair is a 'keeper'.
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post #364 of 369 Old 10-14-2015, 10:22 AM
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I've just tried this solution. Its the first bit of soldering I've ever done and its worked! Thanks for tip, the distortion was getting worse and taking longer to clear after turning it on. Now it works perfectly from cold. And it cost next to nothing.
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post #365 of 369 Old 12-13-2015, 10:40 AM
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foppel. just a big thanks for your suggestion, i was going to bin the nr1501 it was popping
really badly from cold start. i did your suggested repair:
"If you have a bad sound at the start procedure you can add a new capacitor (1000uF/10V) between GND and the output of the IC1606. If you are not good in soldering you can ask somebody. It will take only a few minutes. The IC1606 is on the top side of the board."
and it fixed it great.
many many thanks. i joined the forum just to send you this.
merry xmas mate
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post #366 of 369 Old 12-24-2015, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Warburton View Post
foppel. just a big thanks for your suggestion, i was going to bin the nr1501 it was popping
really badly from cold start. i did your suggested repair:
"If you have a bad sound at the start procedure you can add a new capacitor (1000uF/10V) between GND and the output of the IC1606. If you are not good in soldering you can ask somebody. It will take only a few minutes. The IC1606 is on the top side of the board."
and it fixed it great.
many many thanks. i joined the forum just to send you this.
merry xmas mate
Heya guys,

Quick question around the above mentioned fix.I don't have much experience with soldering but I will attempt this nonetheless

Should the + ve of the new cap be attached onto the piece of metal ( - ve onto the first leg ) ? Just to be on the safe side

thanks a mil
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post #367 of 369 Old 01-07-2016, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Foppel View Post
Hey good work twowheelin. It's a really cheap 50 Cent fix If you have a scope you can put the probe at the output of the IC1606. Then you can see a lot of ripple there. The problem are the caps C1604 100uF/6.3V (electrolytic) and C1603 100nF (ceramic). The 1,8V output is used to power the Audio Decoder DSP IC1601 (CS497004). The caps in this device are all "Badcaps" from SamWha

If you have a problem with the device but you dont know how to troubleshoot. Start with the Service mode.

1. Power on the Receiver
2. Hit the Button "Menu" and "Cursor right" for 5 seconds
3. Then with the Enter Button you can read the service and firmware information
4. If you had an error it will displayed at the last point after the Full LCD Check

CHK DSP -> HDMI Board -> Power Regulators 5V, 3.3V, 1.8V, 1.2V
CHK EEP -> Mainboard EEPROM IC103
CHK CPU -> MAIN/HDMI Board -> 3.3V Supply, Communication error between Sub and Main CPU

best regards - Foppel
Foppel - Are you saying that you agree the 1000uf patch on the IC is the shortcut/workaround for those two bad caps (1604/1603) or are you saying that they still need to be replaced because they are causing a different problem??
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post #368 of 369 Old 01-28-2016, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by twowheelin View Post
The repair is working great after 2 widely separated listening sessions. (8+ hours 'off-time'...) The snaps and pops are completely gone on power up. I have not experienced a sound cut-off when changing channels yet, so I'm hoping that's fixed too!

For anyone that is having this problem, the datasheet for the IC1606 (IL1117-1.8) is available from multiple sources via Google. It's a 3 pin regulator, so you're basically connecting the new cap across pins 1 & 2. My soldering iron tip was a little rough for this size of circuits, but it worked out in the end.

Thanks again Foppel!
I am attempting this repair but I am a little confused on you picture it looks like the capacitor lead going to terminal 1 goes to something else on the board, is this the case or is it just the wire.
Is the diagram I have attached correct?
Thanks, Again all
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post #369 of 369 Old 02-01-2016, 09:23 AM
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Or is it more like this with the capacitor across 1 and 2

Thanks
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