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633K views 5K replies 440 participants last post by  joehonest 
#1 ·
The purpose of this thread is to deal with everything that is common to the 2009 Onkyo models

TX-NR3007 and 5007 since they are almost identical. The TX-NR1007 and the PR-SC5507 also have things in common with the

3007/5007 but there are obvious differences; TX-NR1007 has Faroudja DCDi Cinema instead of HQV Reon-VX video processing; The

TX-NR1007 and PR-SC5507 can't use bridging; The PR-SC5507 has balanced XLR 9.2-channel preouts and no ordinary speaker terminals.

These are the differences according to Onkyo:
Code:
Code:
Specs:          TX-NR1007      TX-NR3007      TX-NR5007      PR-SC5507
H.C.P.S:        Yes            Yes            Toroidal       -
Power (6O)      180 W/Ch       200 W/Ch       220 W/Ch       -
WRAT:           Yes            Yes            Yes            -
VLSC:           -              Yes            Yes            Yes
BurrBrown DACs: 24-bit PCM1796 24-Bit PCM1796 32-Bit PCM1795 32-Bit PCM1795
Video Proc:     Faroudja DCDi  HQV Reon-VX    HQV Reon-VX    HQV Reon-VX
1080p24fps:     -              Yes            Yes            Yes
HDMI Inputs:    6              7              8              8
Dolby Volume:   -              Yes            Yes            Yes
HDMI Front Inp: -              1              1              1
Optical Inputs: 3              3              4              4
Comp Video Out: 1              1              1              2
BTL:            -              Yes            Yes            -
Power Consump:  11.6A 1060W    11.6A 1060W    12.8A 1160W    1.2A 110 W
USB Inputs:     -              Front          Front/Rear     Front/Rear
Weight:         23.5kg/51.8lbs 25kg/55.1lbs   25kg/55.1lbs   14.0kg/30.9lb
The PR-SC5507 has an extra menu for individually adjusting gamma in 10 steps for each primary colour: Red, Green, Blue.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...5&d=1258405971


But, they all use the same firmware (except 1007?) which makes me think they all are going to have mostly the same

issues/questions/problems posted so I assume TX-NR1007 and PR-SC5507 can be included here as well.
But anything specific to a particular model should be posted in the respective dedicated thread for each model.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1185932 Onkyo 3007 Official Thread
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1185297 Onkyo NR5007 "official thread"
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1181069 Onkyo tx nr1007 owners' thread
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1174600 PR-SC5507, check this new Prepro out


I might have to revise the above purpose later.


To get you started:

First, read the Audyssey setup guide: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post14456895

Also, see the pic http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...2&d=1245240212 for

bass management basics which shows how crossovers, LPF of the LFE, etc hangs together.

Then run Audyssey. Some guidelines: Put the mic first in the middle of the listening area

to split the differences (levels, delays) and then take the rest of the measurements to cover the

listening area while staying away (at least 50cm) from side walls/seat backs and extreme off-axis

positions. And note that the measurement positions don't need to be actual seating positions.

And please don't hold the mic in your hand or put it on a chair or a cushion, use a tripod.


Others may have other recommendations but here are some to get you up and running.

Note: They favour Audyssey Dynamic EQ/Volume instead of THX Loudness Plus/Dolby Volume.

- 1. Input/Output Assign -> 1. Monitor Out
Resolution: Source (to let each input govern the resolution)

- 2-2. Speaker Configuration, if you have one or more subwoofers, make sure your speakers are not set to "Full Band" after Audyssey setup. If you don't have a sub, the fronts will be "Full Band" which you can't change. Also, see Can I adjust the crossover after the automatic setup?

Set the LPF of LFE to 120hz.

Set Double Bass to Off to avoid that the low frequency content is sent to BOTH the Full Band speakers (front left/right and center) and the subwoofer. If they happen to overlap in frequency response then you get double the bass--not good!!

- 2-3. Speaker Distance, make sure distances are not that far off from reality. Remember it is the actual delay that is configured expressed in distances, not the physical distance to the speaker as measured with tape measure. A longer distance to the subs is usually explained by the electronics in the sub itself. For shorter distances, see the Audyssey setup guide.

- 2-4. Level Calibration, make sure none of the trim levels are at -12 or +12 dB (-15 to +12 dB for the Subs). If they are, check the Audyssey setup guide again. If you want to verify them with a SPL Meter, set it to C-slow and to measure 75dB with the internal test tones from the receiver at the exact same place where you placed the microphone for the first reading.

- 2-5. Equalizer Settings, make sure it is Audyssey

- 2-6. THX Audio Setup

set Loudness Plus to Off and Preserve THX Settings to No. (see further down about THX Loudness Plus)

- 3-2. Dolby (adjust to your own preferences)
PL IIx Music: Panorama Off, Dimension -2, Center Width 2
Dolby EX: Auto (if the source has EX content, let us hear it as it is supposed to sound)
Dolby Volume: Off

- 3-4. Audyssey
Dynamic EQ: On
Reference Level: 0dB
Dynamic Volume: Off (for listening at lower volumes, try Light)
Soundstage: Reference

- 3-6 LFE Level, If you find that LFE channel sounds (effects) are way to loud and bassy, it might be that the LFE channel is boosted +10dB twice. It should only be done once, in the bass management in the receiver. So if it is boosted in the mix or by the player, you need to adjust it down with -10dB in the receiver.

- 4-1. Source Setup->IntelliVolume, try: for MUSIC only sources, set it -10db. (see "Boomy Bass with Dynamic EQ and music")

- 5. Listening Mode Preset, select your favourite listening mode for each input depending on type of input sound format, such as these
for movies/TV:
Analog/PCM: (any analog or PCM signal) PL II Movie or Neural THX Movie
Dolby Digital/Dolby Digital Plus: (any Dolby signal except 2.0) Dolby Digital or THX Cinema
DTS/DTS High resolution Audio: (DTS) DTS or THX Cinema
D.F. 2ch: (for 2.0 Dolby/DTS sources) Neural THX Movie or PL II THX Cinema
D.F. Mono: (for 1.0 digital sources) Full Mono or TV Logic
Dolby TrueHD: (via HDMI) Dolby TrueHD or THX Cinema
DTS-HD Master Audio: (via HDMI) Master Audio or THX Cinema
for Music:
Analog/PCM: (any analog or PCM signal) THX Music or Stereo
Multich PCM: (PCM via HDMI) Multich
DSD: (via HDMI) DSD
- 6-1. Volume Setup, set Power On Volume to your initial volume level instead of last used.

- 6-2. OSD Setup, not sure if it affects video quality/resolution like it did in the previous models but if you are

experiencing video related issues, try setting Immediate Display to Off.

- 7-5. HDMI
Audio TV Out: Off
Lip Sync: Enable
x.v.Color: Enable
HDMI Control: Off

Surround Speakers not detected?

Make sure your Surround Left/Right speaker cables are connected to the right terminals.

It is easy to mix up the Surround Left/Right with the Surround Back Left/Right terminals.

If you have only 2 surround speakers, you need to use Surround Left/Right.

If you have only 3 surround speakers, you need to use Surround Left/Right and the SURR BACK/ZONE 3 L terminal

and please note that it must be the LEFT Surround Back speaker terminal.

How to change audio settings without entering the GUI/OSD:

Press the 'AUDIO' button to change the following settings, navigate/change with arrows:

Tone Controls, Late Night, Re-EQ(THX), Audyssey Dynamic Volume, Dolby Volume, Music Optimizer, Sub/Center (volume), Audio Selector, A/V Sync.

Note: depending on audio input type and listening mode, especially THX, the list of available settings varies.

How to use other audio inputs with HDMI assigned inputs:

When an "HDMI IN" is assigned to an input selector in “HDMI Input

Setup”, the AV receiver will select audio from "HDMI IN" as a priority

even if the entry in "Digital Audio Input" shows "OPT1".

If you instead want to use the audio from "OPT1", press the [ENTER] button

when you do not use the signal of audio from the HDMI IN.

The entry is then changed to "OPT1 *". (asterisk appended)

No processing of the 7.1 analog audio inputs

No Audyssey or bass management is in effect when 7.1 analog audio inputs are used.

Audyssey is completely disabled and the Bass and Treble controls are also disabled and the crossovers

also seem to have no effect in the receiver on that input and I can't access the trim levels either from the remote.

The only listening modes available with Multichannel are: DIRECT and PURE AUDIO.

How to adjust the video settings without entering full screen OSD Setup:

In Remote Mode: Receiver, press the 'Video' button on the remote, the settings appear on the OSD.

Select setting to adjust with up/down arrow, change value with left/right arrow. See the list futher

down to see what adjustments can be made, marked with an asterisk.

DVD output at 24 frames per second (1080p/24)?

Something I haven't seen mentioned a lot is the feature that upconverts ordinary 480i and 480p material

to 24 frames per second at 1080p. Just set the resolution to 1080p/24. (only TX-NR 3007/5007 and PR-SC5507)

Does not work good for 576i, produces jerky movements,

Video Attenuation

You must use the buttons on the AV receiver to make these settings.

1. While holding down the input selector button for the input source that you want to set, press the [SETUP] button.

2. Use the Left and Right buttons to change the setting.

3. Press the input selector button for the input source that you want to set when you’ve finished.

This setting can be made for the DVD/BD, VCR/DVR, CBL/SAT, GAME, AUX1, or COMPONENT VIDEO input. (You need to assign the input source for COMPONENT VIDEO input.)

If you have a games console connected to the S-Video, composite and component video input, and the picture isn’t very clear, you can attenuate the gain.
Video ATT: OFF: (default).
Video ATT: ON: Gain is reduced by 2 dB.

How to see what input your receiver is getting?

Press 'DISPLAY' on the remote and it displays this on the front panel

- the sound format, such as Dolby Digital 5.1, fs: 48kHz and then if you press 'DISPLAY' again:

- the input and output video resolution, such as 576i/50 -> 1080p/50.

If you have Immediate Display to On, it will display this on your display:

Code:
Code:
[Audio] DVD/BD
Input : HDMI 1
Dolby D             48Khz
5.1ch
Output: THX Ultra2 Cinema
7.1ch
[Video] DVD/BD
Input : HDMI 1
720x480i   60hz     YCbCr 24bit
Output: HDMI Main
1920x1080p 24hz     YCbCr 24bit
ISF   : Custom
Display the Firmware version


On the front panel, press 'DISPLAY' and 'Standby' to display the main firmware:
Main 1.07/09723AH

then press the arrow button below the 'TONE' or 'LEVEL' button repeatedly to go through the other versions:
DSP 1st/NET: 1.08/09727AHA
DSP 2nd: 1.03/09723AH2
DSP 3rd: 1.03/09723AH3
VIDEO: 1.06/09724AR
VSP(Reon): 1.02/09730AEO


You can also view it in a little bit more cryptic way in the menu Hardware->7-6. Firmware Update under Version: 1221-1403-0511-3103 (colors only added by me for easier mapping)

You can re-write it like this :
122 / 1-14 / 03 / 05 / 11-3 / 103

which maps it to the individual firmware components:

Main --> 1.22

DSP /1st / Net --> 1.14

DSP / 2nd --> 1.03

DSP / 3rd --> 1.05

Video --> 1.13

VSP (Reon) --> 1.03


Initial version: 1121-1103-0411-2102

An updated firmware (1181-1403-0511-2102) was released on the 26th of October 2009:

1. improves picture quality for iPod/iPhone through UP-A1

2. improves operability of Internet Radio

In addition to this, the firmware update (1201-1403-0511-3102) released on 19 November 2009

3. improves the display of Chinese menus. - not for TX-NR1007

In addition to this, the firmware update (1221-1403-0511-3103) released on 22 December 2009

4. Improves the functionality of automatic speaker-setup in Bi-amp mode or when a passive subwoofer is connected

5. Improves on-screen display menus.

6. Stabilizes circuit operation immediately after power is turned on (thereby avoiding problems of no sound output) -

In addition to this, the firmware update (1251-1903-0511-3103) released on 23 February 2010

7. Improves operation with Windows 7 "Play To" by correcting the problem of lossy playback of DRM-protected 24 bit/96 kHz WMA Lossless files;

8. Enhances S/N ratio during playback of 24 bit/96 kHz content via USB memory device or DLNA server;

9. Reduces sound of speaker relay switching;

10. Improves efficiency of iPod charging - not for TX-NR1007

In addition to this, the firmware update (1281-2003-0511-3103) released on 15 June 2010:

11. Stabilizes operation immediately after power is turned on (thereby avoiding problems of no sound output after the A/V receiver has been in Standby mode for an extended time with network control enabled);

12. Improves the playback stability of selected WMA internet radio stations;

13. Reduces the delay of sound output for internet radio in Zone 2.

In addition to this, the firmware update (1291-2403-0511-4103) release on 1 October 2010:

14. Increase the stability of network operations

(Improves network operation when using the TCP/IP control)

15. Improve the playback of some particular files

(Corrects playback of mp3 files and some wav files may experience some noise)

16. Improve the processing of DSD for output to Subwoofer

(Corrects DSD 5.1 ch, Subwoofer volume level which is 10 dB higher than regular Direct mode)

Code:
Code:
Early version              Initial26th October__19 Nov 22 Dec  23 Feb 15 Jun 01 Oct
Main: 1.07/09723AH1.12 09807AH  1.18/09X23AH  1.20   1.22    1.25   1.28   1.29
DSP 1st/NET: 1.08/09727AHA 1.11 09805AHA 1.14/09X23AHA 1.14   1.14    1.19   1.20   1.24
DSP 2nd: 1.03/09723AH2     1.03 09723AH2 1.03/09723AH2 1.03   1.03    1.03   1.03   1.03
DSP 3rd: 1.03/09723AH3     1.04 09731AH3 1.05/09914AH3 1.05   1.05    1.05   1.05   1.05
VIDEO: 1.06/09724AR        1.12 09805AR  1.12/09805AR  1.13   1.13    1.13   1.13   1.14
VSP(Reon): 1.02/09730AEO   1.02 09730AE0 1.02/09730AEO 1.021.03    1.03   1.03   1.03
Versions for the TX-NR1007 vs others:
Code:
Code:
1007 / 3007 5007 5507
Early vers:  ????-????-????-???? / 1071-0803-0310-6102
Initial ver: ????-????-????-???? / 1121-1103-0411-2102
26 Oct 2009: 1181-1403-0510-9116 / 1181-1403-0511-2102
19 Nov 2009: none-none-none-none / 1201-1403-0511-3102
22 Dec 2009: 1221-1403-0510-9116 / 1221-1403-0511-3103
23 Feb 2010: 1251-1903-0510-9116 / 1251-1903-0511-3103
15 Jun 2010: 1281-2003-0510-9116 / 1281-2003-0511-3103
01 Oct 2010: 1291-2403-0510-9116 / 1291-2403-0511-4103
How to upgrade the firmware

Update via network: Use a wired Internet connection to update the firmware.

Update via USB storage: Use a USB storage device such as a USB flash memory stick. You need at least 32 MB of available space to update the firmware.
To avoid problems with unstable/slow networks, I strongly recommend download the update to a USB stick.

Notes:

- Never unplug or turn off the AV receiver/controller during updating process.

- The AV receiver/controller will retain all your settings after update is finished.

- The same firmware is used for 3007/5007 and PR-SC5507

- The firmwares on the a) European, b) International and c) North American Onkyo sites are identical!


Instructions are detailed in the PDF document
US: http://www.us.onkyo.com/download/software.cfm

Direct links:
http://63.148.251.135/redirect_servi...07_6_15_10.pdf
28Oct http://63.148.251.135/redirect_service.cfm?type=own_manuals&file=ONKAVR0001_H2H30000EOREHAHA_103.zip
19Nov http://63.148.251.135/redirect_service.cfm?type=own_manuals&file=ONKAVR0001_H2H30000EOREHAHA_105.zip
22Dec http://63.148.251.135/redirect_service.cfm?type=own_manuals&file=ONKAVR0001_H2H30000EOREHAHA_106.zip

23Feb http://63.148.251.135/redirect_servi...REHAHA_107.zip

15Jun http://63.148.251.135/redirect_servi...REHAHA_108.zip
Europe/International:
http://www.eu.onkyo.com/firmware/fir...en_8681862.php
http://www.eu.onkyo.com/dl/1465301/F...07_ENGLISH.pdf
http://www.eu.onkyo.com/dl/1465301/E...recautions.pdf
28Oct http://avrupd.onkyo.com/AVR0001/ONKAVR0001_H2H30000EOREHAHA_103.zip
19Nov http://avrupd.onkyo.com/AVR0001/ONKAVR0001_H2H30000EOREHAHA_105.zip
22Dec http://avrupd.onkyo.com/AVR0001/ONKAVR0001_H2H30000EOREHAHA_106.zip

23Feb http://avrupd.onkyo.com/AVR0001/ONKA...REHAHA_107.zip

15Jun http://avrupd.onkyo.com/AVR0001/ONKA...REHAHA_108.zip

01Oct http://download.onkyo.com/AVR0001/ON...REHAHA_111.zip
Precautions for TX-NR5007/PR-SC5507 /TX-NR3007 /TX-NR1007 Firmware Update

• The firmware update may fail if an external HDMI control signal is input during the update procedure. Please be sure to turn off the HDMI control function (RIHD) on your A/V receiver before starting the update.

How to turn off RIHD:
In the Main menu select "7. Hardware Setup", then "7-4. HDMI".
Set "HDMI Control" to OFF.

• Please read the update instructions carefully before beginning.
• The firmware update should take 30 to 40 minutes. Once the update begins, don't turn off the power supply to the A/V receiver until it is time to restart it.
• Depending on the conditions of the network, a firmware update via a network may take more than one hour or even fail to finish. If the update is not completed within two hours, turn off the power supply by pushing the ON/STANDBY button and then try updating again from the beginning.
• Updating the firmware and adjusting the settings will be done automatically, but may take some time to complete. Please follow the procedures as instructed when you update. Note that the update may fail, or cause problems for your A/V receiver, if you do any of the following:
• Pull out the A/V receiver’s power cord;
• Interrupt the power supply to the A/V receiver (e.g. if the breaker is tripped or if there is an electrical outage);
• Insert or remove the LAN cable from a device in your network when updating over a network;
• Insert or remove a USB memory device from the A/V receiver when updating via USB;
• Operate components connected to the A/V receiver via HDMI, such as a TV or a recording device.

If your A/V receiver is damaged for any of the reasons above, an Onkyo service center will repair the unit for a fee.

Temperature

Yes, they do get kind of hot! Leave plenty of room for the unit.

On the front panel, press down 'DISPLAY' and keep it pressed down while

pressing 'Standby', release both buttons and then press 'TONE' to display
V:000 F:x S:L
T:037

not sure about the meaning.

Press down 'DISPLAY' and keep it pressed down while

pressing 'Standby', release both buttons and then press 'SETUP'

(US models show Farenheit instead of Celsius)
34°C 23 B1
02:00 68h


From Doug G: I just discovered quite by accident that by pressing "return" while viewing the temp and hours data they get reset! I was concerned when the display read something quickly about "data reset" so I went back in and as I expected the hours count is now zero.

Hardware Reset/Factory Default

To reset the AV receiver to its factory defaults, turn it on and, while holding down the [VCR/DVR] button, press the [ON/STANDBY] button. "Clear" will appear on the display and the AV receiver will enter Standby mode.


The AV receiver contains a microcomputer for signal processing and control functions. In very rare situations, severe interference, noise from an external source, or static electricity may cause it to lockup. In the unlikely event that this happens, unplug the power cord from the wall outlet, wait at least five seconds, and then plug it back in again.

Store and Recall settings

To STORE:

1. Push and hold Setup on the AVR (not the remote)

2. Then push Enter

3. Unit displays 'Setup store?"

4. Still holding Setup, push Enter again

5. Unit displays "Setup storing'

6. Unit then displays 'Complete'

All your settings are now stored.

To RECALL:

1. Push and hold Setup on the AVR

2. Then push Return

3. Unit displays 'Setup recall?'

4. Still holding Setup, push Return again

5. Unit displays 'Setup recalling'

6. Unit then displays 'Complete'

Unit then powers off into standby mode. Switch unit back on, your settings have been restored.

There are discrete remote control codes in the excel doc for "Store" and "Recall" available if someone feels the need to use them on a regular basis.

Video Adjustments


The video adjustments made in 1-1. Monitor Out are added to or subtracted from adjustments made for each input in "4-4 Picture Adjust" menu. Example: "1-1 Monitor Out" Brightness is set to (+5), "4-4 Picture Adjust" Brightness is set to (-6), Monitor Output Brightness will be (-1).

1-1. Monitor Out
*Monitor out: Use to choose which type of monitor output is being used (Analog, HDMI Main, HDMI Sub, Both, Both(Main) or Both(Sub)).

The following parameters are memorized for EACH Monitor Out:
*Resolution:
- Through: Output resolution is the same resolution of input signal, no scaling taking place.
- Auto: Output resolution is the highest resolution that the TV corresponds that it can handle.("Auto" only available for HDMI out.)
- 480p/576p/720p/1080i: Output resolution is the specified resolution.
- 1080p: Output at 1080p, only available for HDMI out.
- 1080p/24: Output at 24 frames per second and video conversion as necessary. (1080p24 is only available for HDMI out.)
- Source: Output resolution is the specified resolution in Picture Adjust.(You can specify an individual resolution of each source.)
Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 1 step increments.)
Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.8% in 1 step increments.)
Hue: -50 to +50 (Changes by 1 degree in 1 step increments.)
Saturation: -50 to +50
Red Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
Red Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)
Green Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
Green Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)
Blue Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
Blue Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)

4-4. Picture Adjust

These parameters are memorized for each input source:
*Game Mode: On, Off (If set to "On", Video processor latency is lowered. Disables Picture Mode and NR settings.)
*Zoom Mode: Normal, Full, Zoom, or Wide Zoom. The TX-NR1007 has an additional Auto zoom mode.
*ISF Mode: Custom, Day or Night. (Default Gamma for "Day " is between 1.8 and 1.9,Default Gamma for "Night " is between 2.2 and 2.4)

The following parameters are memorized for each ISF Mode:
*Picture Mode: Auto/Video/Film (Auto- Automatically detect and process accordingly, Video- 20 fps, Film- 24 fps. Picture Mode function will not work if the source component (DVD player, etc.) is outputting progressive scan video.) (The TX-NR1007 has Video: Does not process in either “3:2” or “2:2” (default). Auto: Adjusts to the picture source, automatically. 3:2: Selected when the picture source is movie film, etc. 2:2: Selected when the picture source is computer graphics, animation, etc)
*Edge Enhancement: Off/Low/Mid/High (Use to make the picture appear sharper. Edge Enhancement function has no affect when the video resolution is down-converted, for example from 1080p to 720p.)
*Mosquito NR: Off/Low/Mid/High (Use to remove shimmering or hazziness that sometimes appears around objects in the picture. Can be issue w/overly compressed MPEG content.)
*Random NR: Off/Low/Mid/High (Use to remove indescriminate picture noise such as film grain.)
*Block NR: Off/On (Use to remove block distortion that can sometimes appear in the picture. Can be an issue w/overly compressed MPEG content.)

(The NR (Noise Reduction) functions support all video input signals up to 480p/576p.)
Resolution: Through,Auto,480p/576p,720p,1080i,1080p,1080p/24 (When you choose "Source" in 1-1. Monitor Out -> Resolution, this parameter is effective.)
*Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 1 step increments.)
*Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.8% in 1 step increments.)
*Hue: -50 to +50 (Changes by 1 degree in 1 step increments.)
*Saturation: -50 to +50
*Gamma: -3 to +3 Example: If gamma of your monitor is 2.2, -3: total gamma is 1.6. 0: total gamma is 2.2. +3: total gamma is 2.8.
Red Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
Red Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)
Green Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
Green Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)
Blue Brightness: -50 to +50 (Changes by about 1 [RGB 0-255] in 2 step increments.)
Blue Contrast: -50 to +50 (Changes by 0.4% in 1 step increments.)


The ones above marked with an asterisk (*) is adjustable from the remote's Video button.

Is the video adjustments controls available when 1080p24fps input is used?

Edge Enhancement, Brightness, Contrast, Hue, Saturation, Gamma and

the individual Red/Green/Blue RGB Brightness/Contrast controls all

seemed to have effect when I tried with 1080p24fps from my bluray-player.

But the noise reduction controls did not seemt have any effect.

Is OSD overlay available when 1080p24fps input is used?

Yes, the informative OSD overlay which is enabled with 6-2 OSD Setup->Immediate Dislay:On

and pressing the [Display] button on the remote works when 1080p24fps input is used.

It also shows changes of volume and listening mode etc.

How does the Reon videoprocessor handle 24, 30 and 36-bit video?

If you have a display which handles 30 or 36-bit video, the Reon will output 30-bit when the input is 24 or 30-bit.

If your display handles 36-bit and the input is also 36-bit, the Reon will output 36-bit video.

The only time it will output 24-bit is if the display only handles 24-bit video.

Note: mariob33 found that he had to manually select the 4:4:4 colourspace in his Oppo BDP-83 in order to get 36-bit video output as 36-bit video.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post17467235

How to modify the ISF Day/Night Presets:

1. Menu, Source Setup, and then Picture Adjust:

2. Go down to ISF Mode and change to either Day or Night:

3. Hold down Display on the remote for 6-7 seconds:

ISF Day and Night will now have all the same options as Custom and can be used as Presets,

leaving the menu the options will be hidden/locked again automatically.
Default settings ISF Day:

Picture Mode: Auto

Resolution: Through

Gamma: -2
Default settings ISF Night:

Picture Mode: Auto

Resolution: Through

Gamma: +1

How to turn off video processing

Press [VCR/DVR] and [RETURN] buttons on the AV receiver at the same time.

Select “Skip” in the “VideoProcessor” setting by pressing the [RETURN] button repeatedly on the display.

To reset back to the original setting, press the same button at the same time.

If you select “Use”, the AV receiver will output video signals from the video processor.

Is it possible to turn off video processing for Bluray and have it on for Cable/Sat?

Besides the obvious choice of running the BD directly to your display, I don't think you completely can

turn off video processing for one input and have it on for another. The below is my suggested alternative if you want to have the Onkyo as a video switch:

1) BD/DVD: set the Resolution: Through and Game Mode: On and have Edge Enhancement, Brightness, Contrast, Hue, Saturation, Gamma, RGB Brightness/Contrast all at default and Immediate Display disabled.

(Game Mode: On lowers video processor latency and disables Picture Mode(Auto,Film,Video) and the Noise Reduction settings).

2) Cable/Sat: set the Resolution: whatever and Game Mode: Off and

have Picture Mode, Mosquito NR, Random NR and Block NR, Edge Enhancement, Brightness, Contrast, Hue, Saturation, Gamma, RGB Brightness/Contrast set to whatever you like.


But that is just my own current understanding, it might not be correct...

By the way, the above is how I have it setup so if there is a better way, let me know!

A suggested calibration strategy for 3 sources and 2 displays

In a reply to a request for calibration advice with 3 sources: Toshiba HDDVD, PS3, HTPC and 2 displays: Samsung 61" DLP, Epson 8100

I wrote down the below which might serve as food for thought...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post17869147

I would recommend that you calibrate your chain of player, receiver and display with the settings that give you most control.

That could be your display and maybe using some of settings from Monitor Out if those help in any way.

The Onkyo lack individual control of the primary and secondary colors which your display devices might have.

The most important thing is to get the greyscale correct.

So, pick your most reliable source, Toshiba or PS3, and calibrate the display devices as good as possible.

That would your baseline or reference calibrations.

Then, for any other source, use the individual adjustments per input (Source Setup->Picture Adjust) to make

small adjustments if they diverge from your baseline calibration.

It will hopefully just be small adjustments, maybe brightness one or two notches either way.

That way you have the same settings in the displays for all your video sources.

I don't know which source is the to start with, the PS3 or Toshiba HDDVD but I would guess that

it would be Toshiba if you have a disc with calibration patterns for that.

1. Calibrate the chain Toshiba HDDVD + Onkyo + Samsung 61" DLP using the controls in the Samsung.

If needed, use Onkyo's Monitor Out controls also.

2. Calibrate the chain Toshiba HDDVD + Onkyo + Epson 8100 using the controls in the Epson.

If needed, use Onkyo's Monitor Out controls also.

3. Calibrate the chain PS3 + Onkyo + Samsung 61" DLP using the Source Setup->Picture Adjust settings.

4. The chain PS3 + Onkyo + Epson 8100 should not need any calibration.

Step 2 should have calibrated the display and step 3 any changes from the baseline for the PS3 as a source.

5. Calibrate the chain HTPC + Onkyo + Samsung 61" DLP using the Source Setup->Picture Adjust settings.

6. The chain HTPC + Onkyo + Epson 8100 should not need any calibration.

Step 2 should have calibrated the display and step 5 any changes from the baseline for the HTPC as a source.


If the assumptions in #4 and #6 doesn't hold water, then you would have to use different memory settings in the displays for calibrating those particular chains.

Also, try to make sure all sources use the same HDMI colourspace such as YCbCr and not RGB Full.
Note: the optimal PQ would probably be achieved with separate cables for each source to each display but
the above is only intended for those who wants the Onkyo to function as a video switch with one HDMI to the display.

Remote Control codes for most functions incl ISF, Audyssey features and HDMI out selection,

courtesy of "|| Vitty ||", 12-28-09, 06:15 PM , post # 688

IR CODES http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1262020490

Version: 1.18 31 August 2009 added TX-NR1007/3007/5007,DTR-70.1/80.1,DHC-80.1,PR-SC5507

RS232 CODES: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...2&d=1262020490

Relay Clicking

The receiver sometimes emits relay clicking sounds similar to click sound emitted when the Mute-button is pressed.

This usually happens when

- a) you switch input source

- b) the sound format is changed (PCMDolbyDTS and so on)

- c) the channels used changes (such as 5.1 to 2.0).

The firmware released on 23 February 2010 somewhat reduced the sound of speaker relay switching.

Having no subwoofer connected ("No" in the Speaker Configuration menu) apparently reduces the clicking.

It has been suggested that changing the listening mode presets so you always have the same number of speakers used will make the relay clicking less noticeable.

Where can I set the speakers to LARGE or SMALL??

You do it in Speaker Setup->Speaker Configuration:

LARGE=set it to "Full Band".

SMALL=specify a crossover: 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz or 200Hz.
Note: if you don't have a subwoofer, the front speakers are fixed at "Full Band".

Start of Audyssey related stuff:


The Audyssey features build on each other and these are the available settings:

Audyssey MultEQ XT

Audyssey MultEQ XT + Dynamic EQ

Audyssey MultEQ XT + Dynamic EQ + Dynamic Volume (Light)

Audyssey MultEQ XT + Dynamic EQ + Dynamic Volume (Medium)

Audyssey MultEQ XT + Dynamic EQ + Dynamic Volume (Heavy)


The Audyssey technologies in your receiver/prepro are:

1) Audyssey MultEQ XT does a number of things:

- sets the delay (distance) for the speakers.

- setting the correct levels (reference level volume)

- finding the -3dB point for the AVR crossovers and most importantly:

- builds room correction filters both in the frequency and time domains.

2) Audyssey Dynamic EQ addresses human hearing changes as the volume is lowered.

3) Audyssey Dynamic Volume keeps the volume constant.

4) Audyssey DSX


Here are some more details about them... (most are quotes from Chris, CTO at Audyssey)

There are a number of Audyssey technologies in your Onkyo receiver.

1) The first deals with fixing room acoustics problems and it is called MultEQ.

a) The first thing that MultEQ calculates is the distances of each speaker and sub.

It is a critical part of calibration because without it you have frequencies arriving at different times.

That's called group delay and it is a form of distortion.

MultEQ calculates the delays so that sound from all speakers arrives at the same time at the first measurement position.

b) MultEQ is calibrating your speakers so that they play at reference level when the master volume is set to 0.

c) MultEQ is measuring the raw speaker response and determining the -3 dB point as well as the

room EQ filter to apply that corrects the response down to the measured -3 dB limit.

MultEQ does not apply crossovers. That is done in a completely separate process that is controlled by the

AVR maker. Typically, they take the reported -3dB frequency from MultEQ and then use the closest value

that they have built in (typically in 10 Hz increments).

d) Then follows a rather complex algorithm that analyzes the multiple room measurements to find common

problems and how they are distributed throughout the listening area. It gathers acoustical

measurements from each position and combining them to create a room correction filter that

flattens the response of each speaker and sub. It samples the listening area in order to understand the spatial

distribution of the acoustical problems (particularly in the low frequencies

where they vary greatly from spot to spot). It tries to undo the problems that are added by the room.

They come from standing waves and reflections from the walls, floor, etc.

That distribution is analyzed and the room correction filters are then weighted according to the pattern of problems.

The filters are made to properly account for acoustical room issues, both in the frequency and time domains.


2) Audyssey Dynamic EQ addresses human hearing changes as the volume is lowered.

The first thing that diminishes at lower volumes is our perception of bass,

so Dynamic EQ boosts it according to a set of curves that match human perception.

The second thing that changes is our perception of surround impression,

so Dynamic EQ boosts the surround level as you lower the volume.

Content has soft and loud parts that change moment by moment.

When the volume is turned down, the softer parts need more correction than the

louder parts because they fall on different perceptual listening curves.

So, Dynamic EQ monitors the content in each channel with a real time loudness meter and

makes continuous adjustments to preserve the correct balance.

The idea with Dynamic EQ is to turn the volume down to where you like it and it will adjust the response

and surround envelopment for you. It's made for listening at softer, not loud, levels.

At volume 0.0, Dynamic EQ should not do anything since it is reference level.

What is probably less known is that Dynamic EQ does the same thing ABOVE reference level , 0.0, as well.

But instead of boosting the bass, it reduces the bass so the correct octave-to-octave balance is also maintained above reference level.

As Chris from Audyssey would say: Dynamic EQ is designed to bring you the reference balance (octave to octave) at ALL listening levels.


3) Audyssey Dynamic Volume

For the past several years, receivers have included a dynamic range compression method called Night Mode and now DRC for TruHD content.

It is supposed to solve the problem of content getting too loud, but it has failed to do so for a number of reasons including

wrong setting of the flags during production, inability of the method to adjust the reaction time,

and no capability for perceptual loudness correction when the volume is turned down.

Audyssey Dynamic Volume was designed to address the problems described above and

with its ability to look ahead it can vary the reaction time to increases in loudness so that no artifacts are heard.

It is there to make sure that things don't get louder than what you want.

"Reference" means that dialog is around 78 dB and that the loudest explosions are at 105 dB.

Dynamic Volume will keep dialog at wherever you set the master volume control,

but reduce the loud stuff by an amount controlled via the setting (light,medium,heay).

4) Audyssey DSX

Audyssey Dynamic Surround Expansion (DSX) is a scalable system that adds new speakers to improve surround impression.

Starting with a 5.1 system Dynamic Surround Expansion first adds Wide channels for the biggest impact on envelopment.

Research in human hearing has proven that information from the Wide channels is much more critical in the presentation of a realistic soundstage than then Back Surround channels found in traditional 7.1 systems.

Dynamic Surround Expansion then creates a pair of Height channels to reproduce the next most important acoustical and perceptual cues.

In addition to these new Wide and Height channels, Dynamic Surround Expansion applies Surround Envelopment Processing to enhance the blend between the front and surround channels.

Note that in the current Onkyo models, Front Wide and Front Height cannot produce sound at the same time.

Audyssey Sub EQ HT

In 2009, Onkyo released the xx07-line of products:

Audyssey MultEQ: TX-NR707, TX-NR807

Audyssey MultEQ XT: TX-NR1007, TX-NR3007,TX-NR5007 and PR-SC5507

In the TX-NR707 and TX-NR807 they are simply y-splitting the sub signal to the two connectors so you can connect your second sub to the other connector. MultEQ will ping them as "one", but there is no Sub EQ HT functionality and so the delays and levels between the two subs can't be compensated in advance of the calibration.


But MultEQ XT for TX-NR1007, TX-NR3007,TX-NR5007 and PR-SC5507 contained a new and, at that time, unnamed technology for handling dual subs: MultEQ XT will adjust both subwoofers together by fixing any time and level delays between them and then creating a single room correction filter for optimum bass response in the room.


In August 2010, Audyssey launches a new technology called Audyssey Sub EQ HT and that

technology was already present in the MultEQ XT products released by Onkyo one year earlier.

Allthough Sub EQ HT is included in all new MultEQ XT32 AVRs, Sub EQ HT has nothing to do with XT32.

It's a separate function and can be used with any version of MultEQ. The xx07 were the first models.

I can't get sound from the Front Hide and Front Wide speakers at the same time?

The manual is clear on the fact that: "Front high and front wide speakers produce no sound at the same time."

You can use the speaker layout [SP LAYOUT] button on the remote to switch between Front High and Front Wide.

If you use surround back speakers, the speaker selection will be based on the combination of surround

back and front high speakers, or surround back and front wide speakers.

I can't get any surround from the Surround Back speakers with DSX?

Audyssey DSX does not generate Surround Back channels.

You must either use native 6.1/7.1 audio with surround back channel content or use an

upmixing listening mode, such as PLIIx, that produces surround back channels from 2.0 or 5.1.

If Surround back channel content is there (e.g. from PLIIx or native 6.1/7.1) then DSX applies

Surround Envelopment Processing to produce a better blend between them, the surrounds and the front speakers.

This processing also includes psychoacoustics to account for the fact that sound from the back "sees" our ears differently.
DSX with Surround Back content - For 2.0 sources:

PLIIx Movie + Audyssey DSX

PLIIx Music + Audyssey DSX

Neo:6 Cinema + Audyssey DSX

Neo:6 Music + Audyssey DSX

PLIIx Game + Audyssey DSX
For 5.1 sources:

Neo:6 + Audyssey DSX

PLIIx Movie + Audyssey DSX

PLIIx Music + Audyssey DSX

Dolby EX + Audyssey DSX
For 7.1 sources:

Audyssey DSX

Can I adjust the crossover after the automatic setup?

Looking at the picture, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...3&d=1244811409

you will see that Audyssey builds correction filters down to

a frequency slightly below the initial crossover. If you lower the crossover, there

will be no room correction filters in effect. If you raise the crossover, the filters

will obviously be in effect and the heavy bass is offloaded to the subwoofer which

has 8 times more filters resolution than the non-sub speakers. A common thing to do

is to raise any "Full Band" speakers to 60hz,70hz,80hz,90hz etc for that purpose.

Here is some recommendations ; IF the crossover after setup is:
Full Band: then raise it to at least 20Hz above the speakers specified lower limit or 80Hz whichever is smallest.
between 40-70hz: then keep it if it is in the neighborhood of the speakers specified lower limit or raise it to 80Hz to take advantage of the better resolution of the subwoofer channel.
between 80Hz and the sub's upper limit: then keep it.
above the sub's upper limit: lower it to the sub's upper limit


The last one is not really a good solution. If the crossover of your speaker is above the sub's upper limit, there is probably some error during the measurements which should be investigated first.


THX Loudness Plus vs Audyssey Dynamic EQ

Roughly speaking Audyssey Dynamic EQ and THX Loudness Plus is attempting to solve the same thing.

Audyssey Dynamic EQ is the first loudness correction technology to solve the problem of deteriorating sound quality as volume is decreased by taking into account human perception and room acoustics.

Audyssey Dynamic EQ selects the correct frequency response and surround volume levels moment-by-moment. The result is something never before possible-bass response, octave-to-octave balance and surround impression that remain as they should be despite changes in volume. This is the first technology to carefully combine information from incoming source levels with actual output sound levels in the room, a pre-requisite for delivering a loudness correction solution

THX Loudness Plus and Audyssey Dynamic EQ/Dynamic Volume can't be on at the same time because they would interfere with each other.

The Preserve THX settings selection is Onkyo's way of letting you engage THX for everything except loudness correction.

- Yes: Audyssey Dynamic EQ / Audyssey Dynamic Volume will not be active in THX listening mode.

- No: Audyssey Dynamic EQ / Audyssey Dynamic Volume will be active in THX listening mode depending on the setting.

This setting is only available if "THX Loudness Plus" is set to "Off" and is fixed at "Yes" if "THX Loudness Plus" is set to "On".

See later for THX Re-Eq/Audyssey Roll-Off.

Boomy Bass with Dynamic EQ and movies (DVD/Bluray, cable with 5.1) but not music from CD/Tuner?

If you find that LFE channel sounds (effects) are way to loud and bassy, it might be that the LFE channel is boosted +10dB twice.

It should only be done once, in the bass management in the receiver. So if it is boosted in the mix (uncommon) or by the player (PS3 seems to do this) you need to adjust it down with -10dB in the receiver.

It is done in the menu Audio Adjust-> 3-6 LFE Level for the respective formats but I suspect it is Multich PCM that is troublesome.

If you have the player connected by the analog multichannel cables, it is in menu 1-5. Analog Audio Input->Multich.

Boomy Bass with Dynamic EQ and music from CD/tuner but not with movies?

Music content is not mixed to a standard reference level. It varies by recording. Film uses the same reference mix level for every movie.

Always. Dynamic EQ in the 2008 products is keyed off film reference. When you run MultEQ the trims are set to achieve film reference

with the master volume at 0. At that point Dynamic EQ does nothing. As you turn down from there it starts to apply compensation in the bass and in the surround levels to match human hearing changes.

But, if the music you are listening to was mixed at totally different reference (usually higher) then Dynamic EQ will not know that.

The solution is to turn down the input trim for the source input that you are using. Then you will have to turn the master volume up to listen at the level you like. Dynamic EQ is fooled into thinking that the level is higher and therefore it applies less compensation. If you turn it off completely you will be missing out on

the bass content as you start to lower the volume. On the other hand, if you listen at or near 0 then it probably doesn't matter much

whether you have it on or off.
Dynamic EQ Reference Level Offset

0 dB: This is the default setting and should be used when listening to movies.

5 dB: Select this setting for content that has a very wide dynamic range, such as classical music.

10 dB: Select this setting for jazz or other music that has a wider dynamic range. This setting should also be selected for TV content as that is usually mixed at 10 dB below film reference.

15 dB: Select this setting for pop/rock music or other program material that is mixed at very high listening levels and has a compressed dynamic range.


Since the Reference Level Offset is global you might try to adjust the input trim for music only sources instead.

Input trim on the Onkyo is the 4-1 IntelliVolume setting. The only side effect is that you might have to increase the overall volume level.

High frequency roll-off with THX Re-EQ and/or Audyssey

Audyssey has two "curves": one is flat and the one is the Audyssey Reference curve which is not flat all the way.

The Audyssey Reference (target) curve target is flat in the bass with a slight roll-off in the high frequencies.

There are many reasons for this that came out of Audyssey's research.

They have to do with the fact that directivity of loudspeakers is very different at high frequencies than it is in the lower

frequencies. So the relative weighting among them has to be balanced and Audssey do that with a rolloff in the high

frequencies that starts at 4 kHz and goes down gently at 10 kHz and then slightly steeper after that to 20 kHz.

The only time Audyssey recommend using a Flat response is when the receiver is set to THX mode.

Then the THX re-eq is allowed to do its job properly as it was intended.

In short: The Onkyo receiver automatically selects the Audyssey Reference curve except when a THX mode

is selected, then the Audyssey Flat curve is automatically used.

Caveat: If you use the Audyssey Reference Curve and THX Re-EQ then you will have double the roll off in the high frequencies.

For Onkyo receivers: there is no way to manually select the Audyssey Flat curve except by using a THX listening mode.


Listening modes are either:

a) modes that use the Audyssey Flat Curve and THX Re-Eq can be 'On' or 'Off'.

b) modes that use the Audyssey Flat Curve and THX Re-Eq can not be applied.

c) modes that use the Audyssey Reference Curve and Re-Eq can be 'On' or 'Off'.

d) modes that use the Audyssey Reference Curve and Re-Eq can not be applied.


Basically, anything with 'THX' is either a) or b):

Anything with 'THX' combined with 'Cinema' or 'EX' fell into a).

Anything with 'THX' combined with 'Music' or 'Games' fell into b).


The listening modes were you can end up with double high frequency roll off from Audyssey Reference curve

combined with 'Re-Eq: On', category c), are:

- DTS Neo 6

- Dolby Prologic IIx Movie

- Dolby Digital EX

- Dolby Digital

- Neural Surround (formely named Neural THX 5.1/7.1)


This picture shows my test readings with a SPL meter and a 16Khz Dolby Digital test tone.

The Stereo value was measured with an analog signal. I calculated the value relatively

to Dolby Prologic IIx Movie values which I also enabled with the analog signal as well

as the 16khz signal.

Picture: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...3&d=1259419145

Can I adjust Treble and/or Bass on top of Audyssey?

Onkyo allows adjusting treble/bass "on top" of all Audyssey technologies: MultEQ XT, Dynamic EQ, Dynamic Volume (and I assume DSX as well which I don't personally use).

You can adjust (–10 dB to +10 dB in 2 dB steps) Treble and Bass for all speakers as well as the Bass for the subwoofer(s) for all listening modes except when the Direct, Pure Audio or a THX listening mode is selected.

Hit the "Audio" button on the remote and step forward with the up/down-arrows and adjust values with left/right-arrows.

Here is something you Onkyo owners might find useful to try out if you find "Stereo" needs a bit treble...


When listening to music, I normally prefer "Stereo" but that listening mode uses the Audyssey Reference Curve which is flat except with a roll off in the higher frequencies.

That roll off is genereally not wanted for music content and I would really want to use the Audyssey Flat Curve which is automatically used with the THX modes.

Since the Onkyo's lack the manual choice of the Audyssey Flat curve, here is simple workaround using the treble control:
- Boost all channels treble (20 kHz) with +2dB.

I found that about +3dB would bring me closest to Audyssey Flat in the regions above 10kHz but the increment is with 2dB steps and 4dB was too much except above 16kHz.

That boost will only apply to listening modes using the Audyssey Reference Curve.
What does that give me?

- I can use "Stereo" for music with my simulated Audyssey Flat instead of being forced to use Audyssey Reference with the (for some tastes) undesireable highend roll off for music content.

- I can use modes like "PLIIx Movie" for TV/Movies with my simulated Audyssey Flat and selectively apply Re-EQ if highend roll off is desireable.

- I can continue to use THX modes which use the Audyssey Flat Curve. The THX modes are unaffected by my treble boost and I can use THX Re-EQ if highend roll off is desireable.

Reviews:
http://www.avhub.com.au/ProductRevie...ctReviewID=424
http://www.areadvd.de/hardware/2010/...007_5007.shtml

--

Hi-Fi News 03/2010

Tested Product: TX-NR5007
FULL HD AV AMPLIFIER
Verdict:

"The Onkyo TX-NR5007 holds its own in the rarefied atmosphere of top-end receivers and does so at a distinctly down to earth price. It has every feature you could need for a comprehensive AV hub, is hugely entertaining with movies and offers a smooth and sophisticated if not highly detailed presentation with both stereo and multichannel music. It's fully featured, eminently enjoyable and near half the price of its rivals - what's not to like?"

Award: HIGHLY COMMENDED



---

HomeCinema Choice 02/2010

Tested Product: TX-NR3007
Nine-carat gold Five Star Best Buy

"The TX-NR3007 truly ups the ante of what can be achieved by an AVR at this price point (...) the Onkyo is more straightforward than most of its peers to configure thanks to a straightforward and easily comprehended OSD."

Verdict

Highs: Unfeasibly well-equipped; excellent audio performance and SD upscaling

Lows: Looks a bit bland; huge feature list will take some exploring

Rating

Performance: 5/5

Design: 4/5

Features: 5/5
Overall 5/5
 
See less See more
#3,570 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketcash /forum/post/19910003


Its all in the manual.

page 111 (display)

112, 117-8 (Compression)

Ah- perfect! Thanks so much for pointing me in the right direction. Easy fix now. I'm so glad, that was really starting to annoy me some



Thanks for the quick reply, with the exact page and everything.


Have a great weekend!
 
#3,571 ·
Thanks for the info.Guess i will wait and see.I have decided on klipsch speakers due to their hi sensitivity so i would think this reciever should do good.My fingers are crossed!Just can't imagine this reciever only doing 68wpc with 5 channels driven.It was tested into 4 ohms when they did this which is odd because power output should be more at 4 ohms as oposed to 8.
 
#3,572 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr bud /forum/post/19910861


thanks for the info.guess i will wait and see.i have decided on klipsch speakers due to their hi sensitivity so i would think this reciever should do good.my fingers are crossed!just can't imagine this reciever only doing 68wpc with 5 channels driven.it was tested into 4 ohms when they did this which is odd because power output should be more at 4 ohms as oposed to 8.

If you use the 4 ohm setting, you only limit the output power wise.

Unless you are doing lab work, you should use 8 ohm settings

For most users the peak power is only short bursts, so 8 ohms is ok for most users. Why screw yourself
 
#3,573 ·
Interested to see if any other x007 owners see the same level issue after calibrating that I posted about in the Audyssey thread.


In short, my measured reference levels at each speaker are roughly 65dB after cal. Even with the Audyssey eq/filtering compensation, this seems like WAY too low.


I can't determine if setting manually to 75dB is the right thing to do or not. Hoping Chris from Audyssey will comment but nothing yet.
 
#3,574 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketcash /forum/post/0



If you use the 4 ohm setting, you only limit the output power wise.

Unless you are doing lab work, you should use 8 ohm settings

For most users the peak power is only short bursts, so 8 ohms is ok for most users. Why screw yourself

Interesting I have what I thought were 8ohm klipsch speakers and after running audessy I only have options for 4 or 6 ohm. Is that right
 
#3,575 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr bud /forum/post/19910861


Thanks for the info.Guess i will wait and see.I have decided on klipsch speakers due to their hi sensitivity so i would think this reciever should do good.My fingers are crossed!Just can't imagine this reciever only doing 68wpc with 5 channels driven.It was tested into 4 ohms when they did this which is odd because power output should be more at 4 ohms as oposed to 8.

I believe, and someone correct me if I am wrong, that type of test uses a continuous tone throughout the audio spectrum range for all the tested channels at once. An extremely difficult scenario that is hardly ever played out when you use your receiver for normal movie, program, and music source material. There are very few actual "receivers" that do well on that test. Only stand alone amplifiers can handle something like that! I guarantee you will not have any problems with the 3007 in the power department!... Unless of course you are running all 9 channels with 4 ohm nominal speakers full range, then that might be a different story.
Even just running a sub in your system and crossing over your speakers at 80Hz frees up your receiver's amp quite a bit....
 
#3,576 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by wheatenterrier /forum/post/19911899


Interesting I have what I thought were 8ohm klipsch speakers and after running audessy I only have options for 4 or 6 ohm. Is that right

Audyssey doesn't provide that setting... that is Onkyo's. And technically it states that if your speakers are rated for 6 ohms or higher to use the 6 ohm setting. The 4 ohm setting simply cuts the available power for the receiver to use, virtually in half.... If you have 4 ohm nominal impedance speakers, you should have an external amp to drive those; not a receiver's amplifier section.
 
#3,577 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 /forum/post/0



I pretty much know for certain that the issue with the sound dropping out when doing fast forward on a Dish Network DVR is a common problem with Dish DVRs and not necessarily your Onkyo. My parents HD DVR from Dish does the exact same thing hooked directly to a Mitsubishi 5.1 Sound bar TV! Its a well known bug for them especially if you are outputting Dolby Digital from it. If you switch the DVR to 2 channel PCM, the drop out goes away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by badgerpilot /forum/post/0



Wow, thanks! I hadn't heard that but the next time it happens, I'll give it a try, and yes, I'm using Dolby digital. That makes sense since the sound has only disappeared when watching Dish. It has never happened while watching a DVD/Bluray.

Well, it finally happened so I could try it, and you are right. I switched to 2 channel, got sound, and then switched back to Dolby Digital and it was back to normal. Thanks again for the tip. Now I just need to teach the wife how to do this!
 
#3,578 ·
(Cross posted also in the 5008 thread.)


Does anyone know how Intellivolume works? Not what it does - I know what you use it for and what it does. What I want to know is HOW it works. Does it, for example, increase/decrease the input sensitivity for a particular input or does it increase/decrease the pre-amp gain or what? Anyone know for sure? Thanks.


Kind Regards,


Keith
 
#3,579 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug G /forum/post/19911512


Interested to see if any other x007 owners see the same level issue after calibrating that I posted about in the Audyssey thread.


In short, my measured reference levels at each speaker are roughly 65dB after cal. Even with the Audyssey eq/filtering compensation, this seems like WAY too low.


I can't determine if setting manually to 75dB is the right thing to do or not. Hoping Chris from Audyssey will comment but nothing yet.

Doug, does your subs have any lowpass / highpass filters enabled?

Or any EQ / PEQ?

When I had the lowpass filter enabled and some PEQ, MultEQ XT in my 3007 seemed

to use a much lower target level for all speakers based on the (limited) output of the sub. The sub's trim level was -4.

When I disabled lowpass filter (not sure about what I did with the PEQ...),

and ran MultEQ XT again, the level where much higher for all speakers and much closer to 75dB and the sub's trim level was -12.

Since then, I seem to always get the best result if the sub's output is high

which is indicated by a rather large negative trim level of the sub.

I just checked my center channel with the RS SPL and it is about 73-74dB

and sub's trim level is -11.
 
#3,580 ·
rickardl - Of my two SVS 20-39+ subs, only the one with internal amp has any PE/xover and both are disabled. It does have a subsonic filter which I have set to 20Hz, the resonant frequency of the current porting config (i.e. no plugs installed) as they recommend. The other sub is completely passive and powered by a Marantz MA700 monoblock amp which has none of these controls (I'm sure it must have a subsonic filter but it doesn't specify at what frequency if it does.) Gain on both is set around 1/3 of max, I had them set higher originally, but when the initial cal resulted in both garnering a -12dB trim setting, I reduced them slightly to keep them more in range.


The balance of my sound seems correct, but you're observation about the relative level of the mains as it relates to the sub setting is interesting.


I wonder if this is nothing more than a function of the room mode peaks and valleys in the low frequency response. I think typically the largely attenuated frequencies ("suckouts") would only be applied moderate gain, so most of the correction would be accomplished thru attenuation of the peaks. In this way it may only be possible to achieve a "flat" response at a significantly lower overall magnitude than targeted, so it would be necessary to decrease the output of the other channels to match and achieve the proper overall system balance.
 
#3,581 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug G /forum/post/19920697


Gain on both is set around 1/3 of max, I had them set higher originally, but when the initial cal resulted in both garnering a -12dB trim setting, I reduced them slightly to keep them more in range.

Did you check the response curves when you got -12dB? It is still 3dB to -15dB which is the min value.

If not, increase the gain again, run MultEQ setup and check the freq response after that.
Quote:
I wonder if this is nothing more than a function of the room mode peaks and valleys in the low frequency response. I think typically the largely attenuated frequencies ("suckouts") would only be applied moderate gain, so most of the correction would be accomplished thru attenuation of the peaks.

In this way it may only be possible to achieve a "flat" response at a significantly lower overall magnitude than targeted, so it would be necessary to decrease the output of the other channels to match and achieve the proper overall system balance.

Yes, I understand what you mean. I try to use the same methology when doing manual EQ.
 
#3,582 ·
Does anyone know if it is possible to view video from one HDMI input while listening to sound from another HDMI input?


IE watching cable TV but having a blu-ray player playing an audio CD for the audio.
 
#3,583 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaggeto /forum/post/19923671


Does anyone know if it is possible to view video from one HDMI input while listening to sound from another HDMI input?


IE watching cable TV but having a blu-ray player playing an audio CD for the audio.

Not sure about HDMI video and HDMI audio but HDMI video from one input and

optical audio from another input works ok.

I used the optical output from my Oppo BPD-83 for CDs so I could use a different

Input and therefore enabling me to have different listening mode presets for CDs (music) and DVDs/Blu-rays (movies)

from the same physical player.
 
#3,584 ·
Hello,

I think Rick nails it. As when you select CD, the Video stays on whatever is the last Video Input selected. I am not sure how it would work if you assigned HDMI to CD though. With Optical or Coaxial, you can definitely do so.
 
#3,586 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr bud /forum/post/19940895


I will be hooking up my 3007 this friday.For connecting a sacd/dvd audio player can I just use an hdmi cable or do I need to use the 6 separate analog cables yet?They are such a mess.Thanks

HDMI is perfect for that. For SACD, you would mostly be interested in DSD and LPCM, right?

TX-NR3007 HDMI supported audio formats:

• 2-channel linear PCM (32–192 kHz, 16/20/24 bit)

• Multichannel linear PCM (up to 7.1 ch, 32–192 kHz, 16/20/24 bit)

• Bitstream (DSD, Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, DTS, DTS Express, DTS-HD High Resolution Audio, DTS-HD Master Audio)
 
#3,588 ·
I currenty have 2 displays hooked to my 5007, the projector on Main and TV on SUB. When watching projector the sound comes through the 5007 of course, but when wathcing the TV sound has to come from the TV speakers. So this creates a problem where I have to always go into the menu and under Hardware/HDMI turn the TV speakers on and off. I have discrete codes to switch the out put form main to sub with my Harmony so that is no problem. I also have disctete codes for the audio out over HDMI but it doesn't work on the 5007



Thought about a HDMI splitter but it seems that most require both devices to be on to work, don't want that. Found a Component/SPDIF to HDMI adpater but will the 5007 put out Component and SPDIF over zone 2 when the input is HDMI? Would if convert DTS-MA for example to PCM over the SPDIF in zone 2 while still putting out DTS-MA for the projector?
 
#3,589 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder /forum/post/19971974


I currenty have 2 displays hooked to my 5007, the projector on Main and TV on SUB. When watching projector the sound comes through the 5007 of course, but when wathcing the TV sound has to come from the TV speakers. So this creates a problem where I have to always go into the menu and under Hardware/HDMI turn the TV speakers on and off. I have discrete codes to switch the out put form main to sub with my Harmony so that is no problem. I also have disctete codes for the audio out over HDMI but it doesn't work on the 5007



Thought about a HDMI splitter but it seems that most require both devices to be on to work, don't want that. Found a Component/SPDIF to HDMI adpater but will the 5007 put out Component and SPDIF over zone 2 when the input is HDMI? Would if convert DTS-MA for example to PCM over the SPDIF in zone 2 while still putting out DTS-MA for the projector?

can't you just hook up your TV to main, and your proj to sub?
 
#3,590 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by richardyc /forum/post/19972036


can't you just hook up your TV to main, and your proj to sub?

The problem is that when I turn on Audio over HDMI, so that audio is passed from the 5007 to the TV through the HDMI cable. When you turn it on DTS-MA, TrueHD, ect come up as PCM in the 5007. I am guessing it is sensing that the TV can't decode bitstream so it turns it to PCM. That make the sound coming out of the reciever really bad when I want to watch the projector. I could swap them around but didn't figure I would gain anything. I leave the output set to both main and sub and that works fine to get video to both at the same time, just the audio that is being a pain.
 
#3,591 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder /forum/post/19973019


The problem is that when I turn on Audio over HDMI, so that audio is passed from the 5007 to the TV through the HDMI cable. When you turn it on DTS-MA, TrueHD, ect come up as PCM in the 5007. I am guessing it is sensing that the TV can't decode bitstream so it turns it to PCM. That make the sound coming out of the reciever really bad when I want to watch the projector. I could swap them around but didn't figure I would gain anything. I leave the output set to both main and sub and that works fine to get video to both at the same time, just the audio that is being a pain.

Welcome to one of the MAJOR flaws of the 5007. Sending audio to both Main and Sub results in extremely muffled, crappy sound from the 5007. I was never able to get a clear answer as to why (no amplifiers should be affected), but make no mistake, activating 'TV Sp Out' is like listening to the 5007 thru a tin can with cotton swabs in your ears. I struggled with this for quite a while before I discovered this little gem:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


Once I hooked this up to my system (before the Onkyo), everything was perfect. Now, I have the ability to watch separate sources in my kitchen vs. my living room/theater, and I have two extra outputs for future use.
 
#3,593 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder /forum/post/19974045


So if I run my HTPC into this unit then from the unit to the 5007 and to my TV it will output to both the 5007 and TV at the same time, splitting the signal? I have a Mono Price HDMI switch that I used for a long time, good stuff. But it is only 4 in and 1 out.

Mopar,


Yes, that is exactly what it will do
. I currently have it hooked up this way:


Inputs:

DVR1

DVR2

PS3


Outputs:

Living Room Plasma

Kitchen LCD LED


This way, I can watch any of the 3 inputs on either of my TV's (or both TV's at the same time). The unit also has an IR remote so you can program any learning remote to switch the inputs for you. The only difference from your setup is that I don't run my video sources thru my 5007, I run them directly from the matrix switcher to the displays. I get my audio from optical, but HDMI audio is available at either display, so I don't see a reason why it wouldn't be available at the 5007.
 
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