The Onkyo TX-NR3007/TX-NR5007 common questions/issues/hints/answers thread - Page 82 - AVS Forum
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post #2431 of 4729 Old 08-23-2010, 04:57 PM
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I'm looking to purchase a TX-NR3007/5007 from accessories4less in the near future. From what I've read on here, the company comes highly recommended, but the extended warranties through warrantech are terrible. How many of you have purchased a refurb through accessories4less and an extended warranty through ShopOnkyo? I don't know if I want to get a refurb without an extended warranty I can count on. My NR-807 has been in the shop for a month, and the authorized repair facility STILL doesn't know what is causing the problem.

Also, since the difference between the two is only $150, I am leaning toward the NR5007. I don't have a super high-end setup (Polk Rti series speakers and Samsung's 7000 series LED 3D TV). Most A/V is being run from either PC, PS3, or Samsung BD. Would I even notice a difference between the two units? Thanks, and sorry for the noob questions.
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post #2432 of 4729 Old 08-23-2010, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valero_r View Post

I'm looking to purchase a TX-NR3007/5007 from accessories4less in the near future. From what I've read on here, the company comes highly recommended, but the extended warranties through warrantech are terrible. How many of you have purchased a refurb through accessories4less and an extended warranty through ShopOnkyo? I don't know if I want to get a refurb without an extended warranty I can count on. My NR-807 has been in the shop for a month, and the authorized repair facility STILL doesn't know what is causing the problem.

Also, since the difference between the two is only $150, I am leaning toward the NR5007. I don't have a super high-end setup (Polk Rti series speakers and Samsung's 7000 series LED 3D TV). Most A/V is being run from either PC, PS3, or Samsung BD. Would I even notice a difference between the two units? Thanks, and sorry for the noob questions.

I am shopping for these 2 units as well as the 876 which is much cheaper and is last years 3007....but i see the price difference between the 5007 and the 3007 as being $250...not $150...am i missing a secret deal here?

Tim
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post #2433 of 4729 Old 08-23-2010, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tundrSQ View Post

I am shopping for these 2 units as well as the 876 which is much cheaper and is last years 3007....but i see the price difference between the 5007 and the 3007 as being $250...not $150...am i missing a secret deal here?

Hahaha, my secret is 3 hrs of sleep. I compared the "you save" amount of the 3007 with the price of the 5007.
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post #2434 of 4729 Old 08-23-2010, 06:06 PM
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I have a 3007 that was bought on 7/18/2010. I just got around to hooking up zone 2 and 3. Zone 2 is only playing on the left channel, zone 3 is fine. I hooked the zone 2 speakers to the zone 3 terminals and they work fine. It worked the first time and then lost the right channel. I sure hope I can get this fixed without sending it off. Does any body have any suggestions? I also adjusted the balance, no dice. Bummed out in TX!!
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post #2435 of 4729 Old 08-23-2010, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post

I wouldn't be so hard on yourself, when a manual is over 150 pages long it is easy to miss a thing or two! I always download a copy to my PC and refer back to the manual constantly to verify information I thought I understood only to find that in a different light the information can be interpreted differently.

I don't know if you have started to delve into the 'Audyssey MultEQ® XT Room Correction' world available on these AVR's but I can tell you what it covered in the Onkyo manual doesn't even scratch the surface! Crikey, the official thread is nearly a 1000 pages long and climbing to 30,000 posts!

I found the portion I posted near the front of the manual...didn't see it anywhere else but now that you've posted that, I found a couple more.

I haven't really delved into Audyssey very deeply yet. I've done the very basic setup and am now trying to get used to the receiver but I know it's powerful...that's one of the reasons I wanted the TX-NR3007.

I did get to listen to some music from the Oppo tonight...SACD and it sounded much better than I ever remember so on that front I'm happy.

Thanks again for all your help.

Regards,
Paul
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post #2436 of 4729 Old 08-24-2010, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valero_r View Post

I'm looking to purchase a TX-NR3007/5007 from accessories4less in the near future. From what I've read on here, the company comes highly recommended, but the extended warranties through warrantech are terrible. How many of you have purchased a refurb through accessories4less and an extended warranty through ShopOnkyo? I don't know if I want to get a refurb without an extended warranty I can count on. My NR-807 has been in the shop for a month, and the authorized repair facility STILL doesn't know what is causing the problem.

Also, since the difference between the two is only $150, I am leaning toward the NR5007. I don't have a super high-end setup (Polk Rti series speakers and Samsung's 7000 series LED 3D TV). Most A/V is being run from either PC, PS3, or Samsung BD. Would I even notice a difference between the two units? Thanks, and sorry for the noob questions.

I bought my referbished 5007 from them and haven't had any issues with it. Personally I never buy extended warrenties.


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post #2437 of 4729 Old 08-24-2010, 10:50 AM
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Hi, I am just over a week into my 30-day trial period on an Onkyo TX-NR5007, and I am running the 6/15/2010 firmware. I am really liking the sound and picture quality, but I am less excited about the frequent audible clicking I hear coming from the unit seemingly every time I change a Tv channel on my Scientific Atlanta DVR, and during other source switching and pausing. I can easily hear the clicking from my listening chair 12 feet away.

The worst clicking occurs when there is a brief glitch in the cable Tv signal from the DVR. When that happens, I can get a sudden burst of clicks that effectively drowns out the Tv sound.

I have read certain comments on this site and elsewhere in which the NR5007 owner claims not to have any such clicking, or that the clicking is barely audible. I am wondering if there is a known explanation as to why some people (claim to) have no clicking, some people have barely audible clicking, and some people (myself included, apparently) have very noisy clicking.

Is there a setting in the setup menus that can affect the audibility of the clicking? If so, I would be extremely grateful if someone could post it here.

(Sorry if answers to these questions exist somewhere in this thread's 82 pages of posts; I checked a random but large sample and could not find anything on point.)

Thanks!
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post #2438 of 4729 Old 08-24-2010, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenMtnGringo View Post

I have read certain comments on this site and elsewhere in which the NR5007 owner claims not to have any such clicking, or that the clicking is barely audible. I am wondering if there is a known explanation as to why some people (claim to) have no clicking, some people have barely audible clicking, and some people (myself included, apparently) have very noisy clicking.

I think it's subjective: some people seem to be very annoyed by the clicks and others don't. I've had Onkyo amps before and I *expected* the clicks! They're just the relays switching as the amp swaps one sort of sound codec for another - it's not a fault. There are ways to minimise the number of times the clicks happen - mainly by setting the Listening Modes up properly so that the amp doesn't have to hunt around all the time before it locks on. As it happens my 5007 is in a boot room and not in the listening room so the clicks of course are entirely irrelevant to me, which kinda makes it easy for me to say they don't bother me I guess But even when I had my AVR in the same room, the clicks didn't concern me. So I guess I am in the camp which isn't too worried about it. I imagine, so long as you have the latest FW installed, that the clicks are the same loudness for everyone and whether they are barely audible, audible or noisy depends on how much they irritate.

Kind Regards,

Keith


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post #2439 of 4729 Old 08-24-2010, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenMtnGringo View Post

Hi, I am just over a week into my 30-day trial period on an Onkyo TX-NR5007, and I am running the 6/15/2010 firmware. I am really liking the sound and picture quality, but I am less excited about the frequent audible clicking I hear coming from the unit seemingly every time I change a Tv channel on my Scientific Atlanta DVR, and during other source switching and pausing. I can easily hear the clicking from my listening chair 12 feet away.

The worst clicking occurs when there is a brief glitch in the cable Tv signal from the DVR. When that happens, I can get a sudden burst of clicks that effectively drowns out the Tv sound.

I have read certain comments on this site and elsewhere in which the NR5007 owner claims not to have any such clicking, or that the clicking is barely audible. I am wondering if there is a known explanation as to why some people (claim to) have no clicking, some people have barely audible clicking, and some people (myself included, apparently) have very noisy clicking.

Is there a setting in the setup menus that can affect the audibility of the clicking? If so, I would be extremely grateful if someone could post it here.

(Sorry if answers to these questions exist somewhere in this thread's 82 pages of posts; I checked a random but large sample and could not find anything on point.)

Thanks!

I have a 5007 and it does click maybe once every other day or so, usually in response to a glitch in the satellite signal, but it is barely loud enough to be noticeable - and it is only two clicks, like a relay turning off then back on, never a barrage of clicks. It also never clicks in response to changing channels or pausing. My unit is under the TV in a completely open cabinet 12 feet from the sofa, so it should be similar in volume to yours.

Here are some tips to help reduce the clicking sound...
1. Make sure you have the latest firmware installed. I read somewhere that the clicking volume has been reduced with one of the firmware updates.
2. Follow the "Assigning Listening Modes to Input Sources" direction on page 109 of the manual and make sure NONE of them are set to "Last Valid". I have mine set to decode 5.1 sources as Dolby Digital and stereo sources as PLIIx/Movie (I don't remember the others off-hand). I think the idea here is to not have the receiver respond to audio format changes by turning speaker channels on and off which makes a clicking noise. Set all audio formats to decode using all of your speakers (5.1 in my case) and you will minimize clicking.

Give these a try and see if they help.
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post #2440 of 4729 Old 08-24-2010, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jgyenese View Post

2. Follow the "Assigning Listening Modes to Input Sources" direction on page 109 of the manual and make sure NONE of them are set to "Last Valid". I have mine set to decode 5.1 sources as Dolby Digital and stereo sources as PLIIx/Movie (I don't remember the others off-hand). I think the idea here is to not have the receiver respond to audio format changes by turning speaker channels on and off which makes a clicking noise. Set all audio formats to decode using all of your speakers (5.1 in my case) and you will minimize clicking.

Give these a try and see if they help.

That's the way I do it (and did it on my last Onkyo as well). I have all my digital sources set to PLIIz (I have Height speakers installed - totally amazing!) or Audyssey DSX (even more amazing). This will minimise the noise made as the relays change. If you have a 5.1 setup it is, as you say, very easy to set every source's listening mode to use ALL the speakers all the time. Its easy to skip through the listening modes later if you really need to using the relevant button on the remote. If stereo sources, such as TV commercials in the middle of 5.1 programming, are also set to PLIIx as you suggest, then there should hardly be any clicking, ever. I'm not really adding anything here to your post, just confirming that it ties in with my own experience.

Kind Regards,

Keith


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post #2441 of 4729 Old 08-24-2010, 12:59 PM
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post #2442 of 4729 Old 08-24-2010, 03:52 PM
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Thanks for your input Mopar. Until my 807 crapped out on me (my first 2 Onkyo's still run perfect), I would be right there with you.


I've been getting mixed answers to the 3D question. Can I run a 3D Blu-ray player to the NRX007, and still get 3D video? I know my category 2 HDMI 1.3 cables have the bandwidth to support it, but some techs are saying that AVR's with HDMI 1.3 won't support 3D...and some are saying that it won't be a problem.

Has anybody tried it, and succeeded? Also, I'm not really fond of the idea of going directly to the TV, and then running a splitter to the AVR. Thanks.
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post #2443 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 02:29 AM
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Does anyone know what the V, F and S settings below mean?

Also the stuff after the temperature display?

Thanks.

============
On the front panel, press down 'DISPLAY' and keep it pressed down while
pressing 'Standby', release both buttons and then press 'TONE' to display
V:000 F:x S:L
T:037
not sure about the meaning.
Press down 'DISPLAY' and keep it pressed down while
pressing 'Standby', release both buttons and then press 'SETUP'
(US models show Farenheit instead of Celsius)
34°C 23 B1
02:00 68h

==============

Kind Regards,

Keith


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post #2444 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 03:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

Does anyone know what the V, F and S settings below mean?

Also the stuff after the temperature display?

Thanks.

============
On the front panel, press down 'DISPLAY' and keep it pressed down while
pressing 'Standby', release both buttons and then press 'TONE' to display
V:000 F:x S:L
T:037
not sure about the meaning.
Press down 'DISPLAY' and keep it pressed down while
pressing 'Standby', release both buttons and then press 'SETUP'
(US models show Farenheit instead of Celsius)
34°C 23 B1
02:00 68h

==============

Kind Regards,

Keith

I have seen "S:L" and "S:M" so I guess it is the speed of the fan: LOW, MEDIUM and probably HIGH also.
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post #2445 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 04:54 AM
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What are the differences between the 5507 and the 5007 (other than the amps and the balanced outputs on the 5507)? I can't even find the 5507 info on the Onkyo website. I don't need the amplifiers of the 5007 (unless I went 9 channel, then I'd need two), so I was thinking I'd get the 5507. But, I could save money buying a refurbished 5507.

Bob
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post #2446 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctviggen View Post

What are the differences between the 5507 and the 5007 (other than the amps and the balanced outputs on the 5507)? I can't even find the 5507 info on the Onkyo website. I don't need the amplifiers of the 5007 (unless I went 9 channel, then I'd need two), so I was thinking I'd get the 5507. But, I could save money buying a refurbished 5507.

I was in the same boat, no need for the internal amps. But the 5007 was considerbly less then the 5507 which make no sence at all, so I went the 5007 to save the money. To see the 5507 you have to go to the Onkyo Pro site, don't understand why they don't link to it off their main site.


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post #2447 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 06:44 AM
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Oops, I meant I could buy the 5007. I will check out the Pro site (which for some odd reason doesn't come up if I google "onkyo 5507"). Thank you.

Bob
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post #2448 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

Does anyone know what the V, F and S settings below mean?

Also the stuff after the temperature display?

Thanks.

============
On the front panel, press down 'DISPLAY' and keep it pressed down while
pressing 'Standby', release both buttons and then press 'TONE' to display
V:000 F:x S:L
T:037
not sure about the meaning.
Press down 'DISPLAY' and keep it pressed down while
pressing 'Standby', release both buttons and then press 'SETUP'
(US models show Farenheit instead of Celsius)
34°C 23 B1
02:00 68h

==============

Kind Regards,

Keith

From observations on my 1007:

V:XXX is the overall output of the amplfiers. There is a slight lag but you will see the numbers increase as the overall sound level increases.

F:x I believe is the fan status :H (High) :M (medium) :L (Low) and :x (Off)

S:X is the power output mode of the amplifiers. When in 4 ohm mode, you should see S:M (Medium power). In 6 ohm mode, you will see S:H (High power mode). When you are in 6 ohm mode, the AVR will start in high power mode (S:H). If you are listening at low to moderate levels, the AVR will throttle back to low power mode (S:L) after one hour of operation. When the demands increase, the AVR automatically switches back to High power mode (S:H) for at least another hour. I have noticed this to happen when V: goes to somewhere around 015 to 020. I have also noticed that the temp is roughly 7-8 degree C lower in Low power mode (S:L).

I am assuming that the 3007/5007 behaves in the same way.

SA 8300HD Rogers SARA 1.89.16.2
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post #2449 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgyenese View Post

I have a 5007 and it does click maybe once every other day or so, usually in response to a glitch in the satellite signal, but it is barely loud enough to be noticeable - and it is only two clicks, like a relay turning off then back on, never a barrage of clicks. It also never clicks in response to changing channels or pausing. My unit is under the TV in a completely open cabinet 12 feet from the sofa, so it should be similar in volume to yours.

Here are some tips to help reduce the clicking sound...
1. Make sure you have the latest firmware installed. I read somewhere that the clicking volume has been reduced with one of the firmware updates.
2. Follow the "Assigning Listening Modes to Input Sources" direction on page 109 of the manual and make sure NONE of them are set to "Last Valid". I have mine set to decode 5.1 sources as Dolby Digital and stereo sources as PLIIx/Movie (I don't remember the others off-hand). I think the idea here is to not have the receiver respond to audio format changes by turning speaker channels on and off which makes a clicking noise. Set all audio formats to decode using all of your speakers (5.1 in my case) and you will minimize clicking.

Give these a try and see if they help.

Hi and thanks for the response. I am envious to read that your 5007 never clicks when changing Tv channels!

I run a 5.1 system and I did what you suggested as far as listening modes are concerned. My 5007 still clicks at least 2x each time I change channels. Sometimes it clicks 4x per channel change. And these clicks are NOT subtle.

Either I am doing something wrong or something may be up with my 5007. Here is my cable Tv signal chain:

Comcast HD cable > Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD DVR > HDMI > Onkyo 5007 > HDMI > Samsung 46A650.

Anything else I should look at or adjust to try to eliminate or at least minimize the frequency and volume of these clicks? Thanks!!

PS -- FWIW, if I hit the Muting button on the 5007 remote, all channel changing clicks stop. However, with Muting disengaged, the channel changing clicks seem to be of equal loudness regardless of the volume setting on the 5007.
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post #2450 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valero_r View Post

Thanks for your input Mopar. Until my 807 crapped out on me (my first 2 Onkyo's still run perfect), I would be right there with you.


I've been getting mixed answers to the 3D question. Can I run a 3D Blu-ray player to the NRX007, and still get 3D video? I know my category 2 HDMI 1.3 cables have the bandwidth to support it, but some techs are saying that AVR's with HDMI 1.3 won't support 3D...and some are saying that it won't be a problem.

Has anybody tried it, and succeeded? Also, I'm not really fond of the idea of going directly to the TV, and then running a splitter to the AVR. Thanks.

I think the reality is that no one knows for sure if 1.3a will work with all the upcoming 3D formats. The new Panasonic 3D BD players offer a workaround by having 2 HDMI outputs-1 is 1.4 for use with 1.4-equipped displays and AVRs, and the other is 1.3a for use with older 1.3a AVRs. You can send the 3D video over the 1.4 connection and audio out over the 1.3a link.

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post #2451 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenMtnGringo View Post

Hi and thanks for the response. I am envious to read that your 5007 never clicks when changing Tv channels!

I run a 5.1 system and I did what you suggested as far as listening modes are concerned. My 5007 still clicks at least 2x each time I change channels. Sometimes it clicks 4x per channel change. And these clicks are NOT subtle.

Either I am doing something wrong or something may be up with my 5007. Here is my cable Tv signal chain:

Comcast HD cable > Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD DVR > HDMI > Onkyo 5007 > HDMI > Samsung 46A650.

Anything else I should look at or adjust to try to eliminate or at least minimize the frequency and volume of these clicks? Thanks!!

PS -- FWIW, if I hit the Muting button on the 5007 remote, all channel changing clicks stop. However, with Muting disengaged, the channel changing clicks seem to be of equal loudness regardless of the volume setting on the 5007.

I'm not familiar with the Comcast box, I'm using DirecTV - check the settings on the Comcast box and see if there is anything related to Dolby Digital or 5.1 etc. that you can play with.

Tonight I will check my 5007 and report back here with all of my listening mode assignments.
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post #2452 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LesE View Post

From observations on my 1007:

V:XXX is the overall output of the amplfiers. There is a slight lag but you will see the numbers increase as the overall sound level increases.

F:x I believe is the fan status :H (High) :M (medium) :L (Low) and :x (Off)

S:X is the power output mode of the amplifiers. When in 4 ohm mode, you should see S:M (Medium power). In 6 ohm mode, you will see S:H (High power mode). When you are in 6 ohm mode, the AVR will start in high power mode (S:H). If you are listening at low to moderate levels, the AVR will throttle back to low power mode (S:L) after one hour of operation. When the demands increase, the AVR automatically switches back to High power mode (S:H) for at least another hour. I have noticed this to happen when V: goes to somewhere around 015 to 020. I have also noticed that the temp is roughly 7-8 degree C lower in Low power mode (S:L).

I am assuming that the 3007/5007 behaves in the same way.

Thanks for you reply. Is V (overall output) measured in watts? I do see it increase as the volume increases in the source. I'm a little confused with S - mine shows S:M but I am running in 6 ohm mode with a mixture of 4 ohm and 8 ohm speakers. I've never seen it at H or L.

Kind Regards,

Keith


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post #2453 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

Is V (overall output) measured in watts? I do see it increase as the volume increases in the source.

I don't know for sure but I doubt that V: is a measure of output power in watts. I'd guess that it's some arbitrary scale that is proportional to the output power.

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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

I'm a little confused with S - mine shows S:M but I am running in 6 ohm mode with a mixture of 4 ohm and 8 ohm speakers. I've never seen it at H or L.

That seems odd. I never see S:M unless I am in 4 ohm mode. I'd try going into the setup, change to 4 ohm mode and verify that you get S:M. Then go back into setup and change back to 6 ohm mode. You should hear a relay click when you change from 4 to 6 ohm mode and S: should change to S:H. At least it does on my 1007.

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post #2454 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 05:03 PM
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Does anyone out here have an onkyo 3007/5007 and have a subwoofer eq between the receiver and the sub? I just installed a 3007 and I have an elemental designs eq2 and an a3-300. Everything was fine and the old onkyo, different model, died so I got the 3007. I get no output to the sub unless I bypass the eq and go straight from the receiver to the sub. I've chatted with ed about it a bit and tried a few things with no luck. Would there be any setting on the 3007 that would cause something like this?

Thanks
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post #2455 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 05:18 PM
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I think the reality is that no one knows for sure if 1.3a will work with all the upcoming 3D formats. The new Panasonic 3D BD players offer a workaround by having 2 HDMI outputs-1 is 1.4 for use with 1.4-equipped displays and AVRs, and the other is 1.3a for use with older 1.3a AVRs. You can send the 3D video over the 1.4 connection and audio out over the 1.3a link.

Thanks. I'm sure going the Panasonic route would work and save me a couple hundred, but I want to be able to switch everything with the AVR. I really hate having a bunch of HDMI wires hanging off the side of the TV. What was Samsung thinking? I'm pretty sure that I will end up with the NR3008. Thanks.
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post #2456 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 05:24 PM
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The Reon works best with HDMI. Your best bet is to upgrade to a digital set. Keep in mind, to get the same height as your 36" 4X3 set, you'll need to purchase either a 52" or 54" 16X9 set. But once you go digital, you'll never miss your 185Lb tube!

300 lb tube actually. So I did as you suggested and went to frys and picked up a samsung PN58B860 at an excellent price. I have my Onkyo 3007 conneceted to the TV via HDMI cable. Picture is great but there is no sound. So far I get my sound from my surround sound but sometimes I'd prefer the more energy efficent TV speakers. Any advice? TV was a demo model if that makes any difference.

Thanks, Garth
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post #2457 of 4729 Old 08-25-2010, 08:58 PM
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I'm not familiar with the Comcast box, I'm using DirecTV - check the settings on the Comcast box and see if there is anything related to Dolby Digital or 5.1 etc. that you can play with.

Tonight I will check my 5007 and report back here with all of my listening mode assignments.

As promised, here are my listening mode assignments:

Analog -> PLII Movie
DD/DD+ -> Dolby Digital
DTS/DTSHD -> DTS
DF 2ch -> PLII Movie
DF Mono -> Full Mono
Multi PCM -> Multich
Dolby TrueHD -> Dolby TrueHD
DTS-HDMaster -> MasterAudio
DSD -> DSD

I hope this helps with your clicking problem.
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post #2458 of 4729 Old 08-26-2010, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgyenese View Post

I'm not familiar with the Comcast box, I'm using DirecTV - check the settings on the Comcast box and see if there is anything related to Dolby Digital or 5.1 etc. that you can play with.

Tonight I will check my 5007 and report back here with all of my listening mode assignments.

Hi, I checked my DVR and there is an audio setting with a choice of HDMI/DVI, Dolby Digital, or Other. I am set to HDMI/DVI. I tried the other two settings, but then had no sound whatsoever (including no clicking at the 5007). Oh well. Thanks for the suggestion.
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post #2459 of 4729 Old 08-26-2010, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgyenese View Post

As promised, here are my listening mode assignments:

Analog -> PLII Movie
DD/DD+ -> Dolby Digital
DTS/DTSHD -> DTS
DF 2ch -> PLII Movie
DF Mono -> Full Mono
Multi PCM -> Multich
Dolby TrueHD -> Dolby TrueHD
DTS-HDMaster -> MasterAudio
DSD -> DSD

I hope this helps with your clicking problem.

Hi, I will try your settings and see if they help. Thanks!

While on the subject of Onkyo relay clicking, I noticed I get clicks when I use the Onkyo remote to switch between listening modes while tuned to the same Tv channel. I also get clicks when using the Onkyo remote to switch between pre-set FM radio stations. Is this normal 5007 behavior? Thanks.
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post #2460 of 4729 Old 08-26-2010, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenMtnGringo View Post

Hi, I will try your settings and see if they help. Thanks!

While on the subject of Onkyo relay clicking, I noticed I get clicks when I use the Onkyo remote to switch between listening modes while tuned to the same Tv channel. I also get clicks when using the Onkyo remote to switch between pre-set FM radio stations. Is this normal behavior? Thanks.

Anything that causes the DSP processing to switch the number of speakers in use in a given mode will cause the relays to activate. You'll notice that in jgyenese's settings all of his modes are using all 5 speakers - that is why he's not getting the relay noise. If one of his modes was set to, for example, stereo, then as that mode kicked in and out (for example when watching a 5.1 program on TV which then switches to 2.0 for commercials) he would hear the relays working. The trick is to go into the settings for Listening Modes as jgyenese has done and then set every mode to use all of the speakers all of the time. The modes are easily changed should you really want to simply by using the Mode button on the remote. The worst case scenario seems to be leaving all the listening modes set to "Last Valid" which is, I think, the default. Remember to set the listening mode for each of your sources! Try jgyenese's suggestion and see how it works for you.

Kind Regards,

Keith


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