Official Emotiva XPA-5 Owners Thread - Page 86 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2551 of 2567 Old Yesterday, 04:54 AM
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Its really a shame you can't bridge the channels on the XPA-5 Gen 2's, that would be ideal for my situation.
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post #2552 of 2567 Old Yesterday, 07:16 AM
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For a passive sub outdoors I would pick up a two-channel pro amp and bridge it.
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"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #2553 of 2567 Old Yesterday, 08:19 AM
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Any recommendations? Looking for good to high quality most bang for the buck type option.
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post #2554 of 2567 Old Yesterday, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rpr View Post
Thanks for the feedback. So at least it appears to be a viable option. Just don't want to burn up my XPA-5. It will be on Zone 2 of my Denon which controls my outdoor system, so the passive sub will be in a large backyard, meaning I will have to push it and play it rather loud. 250W RMS is probably near the lower limit of what I need to drive this sub adequately (Terra AC.SUBe).

Anybody else have any thoughts or longer term experiences driving a sub with one channel of the XPA-5?
That's an 8ohm sub. You'll only be getting 200W out of the XPA-5 at 8ohms. Since you already have it there's no harm in trying it with what you already have. Slowly ramp up the volume and see how well it handles the load.

The amp will go in to protect mode if it can't handle the current draw. If it does you know you'll definitely need to get anot her, more powerful, amp. Behringer makes some decent quality amps that are relatively inexpensive that should have more than enough power for your sub. Pro amps are loud so plan on swapping out the fans of you keep them near your listening environment.
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post #2555 of 2567 Old Yesterday, 12:30 PM
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+1. Doesn't hurt to just try and see what happens. If you cannot keep your hand on top the amp it's probably too hot (test and check before having the amp shut down at a party).

For a cheap amp, Behringer iNuke series. My choice would be one of the lower-end Crown XLS series amplifiers.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #2556 of 2567 Old Yesterday, 02:05 PM
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+1. Doesn't hurt to just try and see what happens. If you cannot keep your hand on top the amp it's probably too hot (test and check before having the amp shut down at a party).

For a cheap amp, Behringer iNuke series. My choice would be one of the lower-end Crown XLS series amplifiers.
There's actually a slightly used Crown XLS1000 for sale locally here but I'm hoping to find an amp that will provide a high pass filter for my satellite speakers. Looks like this amp only has a pass through for satellites.
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post #2557 of 2567 Old Yesterday, 04:48 PM
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I have always used an external crossover before the amps. Inexpensive options are a miniDSP board for about $100 or a dbx XS223 analog unit for around $200. Are you using the Crown to drive subs and satellites? They have a crossover for that, or you can figure them as LPF or HPF. I don't think they have a crossover output you could use to drive a second amplifier, however (not real sure, you can download the manual online). I am not very familiar with Behringer DSP capabilities.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley

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post #2558 of 2567 Old Yesterday, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rpr View Post
Any recommendations? Looking for good to high quality most bang for the buck type option.
Some test results here:

http://data-bass.ipbhost.com/index.p...plifier-tests/

Most are overkill though. Majority of people like the INUKE from behringer and for the price they are hard to beat (assuming price is a driving factor for you). I wouldn't consider anything less than the 6000 (with dsp if this is for subwoofers). Works with 4 or 8 ohms per channel. Single channel usage will allow for more power than stereo even though you cannot bridge the amplifier.

You can pick up an amp that you can actually bridge, but will more than likely pay more money per watt than running the inuke with a single channel.

Crest CC4000 or CC5500 are also good options along with the Crown XLS series.

This is pretty off topic now though so if you link to a new thread we can continue discussion.
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post #2559 of 2567 Old Today, 07:16 AM
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Thanks for all the feedback. Looks like I also need an external crossover. Those miniDSP's look like a PITA to configure. Probably will go the analog route.

Two final questions, one on topic and one final off topic (apologies):

1. I have the XPA-5 Gen 2. That puts out 250 WRMS/channel with all channels driven I believe. I can't seem to find to what degree that will ramp up if I don't use all 5 channels. If I only use 4 channels (including for the sub), how much would the power per channel likely increase?

2. Of all the amps mentioned, Crest, Crown, Behringer, etc., which ones and which lines run the quietest? That's a major consideration for me. I have all my equipment in a cabinet with fans that come on automatically when the temp reaches a certain point. I'm already close to what I would consider to be my max acceptable fan dB level.

Thanks for all the help!
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post #2560 of 2567 Old Today, 08:07 AM
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Minimal power increase if you only use one or two channels. Going from 5 to 4 channels I would not expect it to be remotely audible. It ain't an AVR with limited power supply and cooling.

Is the closet ventilated? Whenever I have done that I have installed a vent (sometimes a vented door) and ceiling exhaust fan to keep the (things in the) closet from overheating. I have also added insulation to dampen the sound in the listening area on occasion.

I have no recent experience with Crest and the experience I had in the past with several of their amplifiers in a couple of installations was poor (unreliable).
Crown I have a lot of experience with, all positive, and Crown has a good rep. Behringer seems widely recommended here but I have no experience with their recent amplifiers. The iNuke's have fans but they make some amplifiers like the A500 that are fanless.

The fan noise depends on how hot the amp and how hard you push it. There are mods around to reduce the noise, but I'd be leery of doing that if they are mounted in a closet. Most folk running pro amps are not pushing them anywhere near their limits so fan noise is rarely an issue. You could look for fanless (convection-cooled) amps, pro or consumer, but you will likely pay more and will need to ensure adequate airflow even for them.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley

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post #2561 of 2567 Old Today, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpr View Post
1. I have the XPA-5 Gen 2. That puts out 250 WRMS/channel with all channels driven I believe. I can't seem to find to what degree that will ramp up if I don't use all 5 channels. If I only use 4 channels (including for the sub), how much would the power per channel likely increase?
THe XPA-5 is rated at 200W/CH @8ohms and 300W/CH @4ohms . I don't see anywhere in the documentation stating an increase in output power if not all channels are used. If there was a power increase it would most likely be negligible between the 5CH driven ratings vs. 4CH driven. A doubling of your power will, at best, give you an increase of 3dB in output.



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2. Of all the amps mentioned, Crest, Crown, Behringer, etc., which ones and which lines run the quietest? That's a major consideration for me. I have all my equipment in a cabinet with fans that come on automatically when the temp reaches a certain point. I'm already close to what I would consider to be my max acceptable fan dB level.
I'm not sure about the Crown or the Crest, but my Behringer with a fan mod is dead silent unless your ear is right on it. Of course this will negate any warranty, but if you're willing to take the risk it's the way to go. I've heard that some Crowns are silent until they start getting too warm, but I don't know what "too warm" is nor do I know how loud they are when that happens.

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post #2562 of 2567 Old Today, 10:30 AM
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Thanks, my equipment is in an enclosed wooden cabinet. Not ideal by far, but I have vents installed in the cabinet doors with automatic fans. It does the job, I just don't want anymore fan noise than I already have.

I read an article that said the power on the XPA-Gen 2's was increased from 200W RMS/channel to 250 W RMS/channel. That article was obviously incorrect as I just checked the manual based on your response above.

The link to that other thread with the testing is intense, over my head but he seems to have very good results from the Crest CC and Behringer iNuke series. I'm actually leaning toward the 4 channel iNuke as that will solve my crossover issue, I can use 2 channels with a HP filter for my Klipsch satellites (only rated at 85 W RMS/channel) and then bridge the other two channels with a LP filter for my outdoor sub Terra AC.SUBe (rated for "400 W max undistorted", whatever that means). Unfortunately, I think that iNuke puts out way too much power for my application.

Last edited by rpr; Today at 11:16 AM.
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post #2563 of 2567 Old Today, 10:37 AM
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Thanks, my equipment is in an enclosed wooden cabinet. Not ideal by far, but I have vents installed in the cabinet doors with automatic fans. It does the job, I just don't want anymore fan noise than I already have.

I read an article that said the power on the XOA-Gen 2's was increased from 200W RMS/channel to 250 W RMS/channel. That article was obviously incorrect as I just checked the manual based on your response above.

The link to that other thread with the testing is intense, over my head but he seems to have very good results from the Crest CC and Behringer iNuke series. I'm actually leaning toward the 4 channel iNuke as that will solve my crossover issue, I can use 2 channels with a HP filter for my Klipsch satellites (only rated at 85 W RMS/channel) and then bridge the other two channels with a LP filter for my outdoor sub Terra AC.SUBe (I think this is rated for 200 to a max of 450 W RMS/channel). However, quite frankly, I think that iNuke puts out too much power.
I believe the Gen3s are 250W/CH. You can't have too much power. It could be a waste, but it's not going to harm your system. The speakers will draw what they need and nothing more.
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post #2564 of 2567 Old Today, 12:10 PM
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Question on using URL-4 rack ears

Hey guys - Have an XPA-5 gen3 that uses the URL-4 rack ears. It came with 14 little black screws which clearly are to mount the rack ears to the 7 screws on each side of the unit. However the rack ears also came with a separate bag of hardware - specifically 4 thicker silver screws (for which there is no matching holes on the XPA unit), 4 square little brackets of some sort, and 4 black plastic washer-like pieces. What is that stuff for? I am thinking that perhaps there are two different types of mounting hardware depending on what type of rack you are using? My plan is to just use the 14 little screws and set the other hardware aside. Make sense? Just curious - what is that other hardware for? See attached.
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post #2565 of 2567 Old Today, 12:20 PM
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Hey guys - Have an XPA-5 gen3 that uses the URL-4 rack ears. It came with 14 little black screws which clearly are to mount the rack ears to the 7 screws on each side of the unit. However the rack ears also came with a separate bag of hardware - specifically 4 thicker silver screws (for which there is no matching holes on the XPA unit), 4 square little brackets of some sort, and 4 black plastic washer-like pieces. What is that stuff for? I am thinking that perhaps there are two different types of mounting hardware depending on what type of rack you are using? My plan is to just use the 14 little screws and set the other hardware aside. Make sense? Just curious - what is that other hardware for? See attached.
Those are the screws you would use to mount the amp to the rack. The four square nuts attach to the rack holes then the rack ears are attachednto the rack using the included bolts.
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post #2566 of 2567 Old Today, 01:08 PM
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The washers are to keep the amp from touching the rack to prevent ground loops. May or may not be needed.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #2567 of 2567 Old Today, 01:26 PM
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Those are the screws you would use to mount the amp to the rack. The four square nuts attach to the rack holes then the rack ears are attachednto the rack using the included bolts.
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The washers are to keep the amp from touching the rack to prevent ground loops. May or may not be needed.
Ah, OK, makes sense now. So screw into plastic washer into metal square bracket into rail? However - I just checked and these larger screws are bigger than 10-32 which fit my Middle Atlantic BGR rack. Isn't 10-32 standard? The washer, however, will fit a 10-32 screw so I can just use that.

The square bracket - that won't fit on my rail. My rail tucks right into the side of the rack so there is no gap on the inside edge of the rail to be able to snap that square bracket on. I suppose it is not needed.

So I guess the question comes down to whether or not to use the washer... It sure seems like a good idea if screwing into a rack can create a possible ground loop issue. However this plastic washer wouldn't provide the same solid "bolting" onto the rack rail like screwing into it would... So I don't want to use the washers if there is no real-world benefit in my situation. Thoughts?
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