The "Official" Onkyo TX-SR608 Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 166 - AVS Forum
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post #4951 of 5284 Old 09-20-2011, 10:51 PM
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Ok I just wanted to make sure if this was normal. First of all, my setup is 6.1 (no center speaker) Now, while listening to PCM 2.0 on my ps3 over hdmi I've noticed the 608 will give a single click noise (not through speakers, the click noise you hear when powering off or on AVR) about 10 minutes or so into being on, for no reason, no source change or anything, just while playing music with no user input at all.

My z2 is set as z2, not fw or fh. Center is turned off.

Is this a normal thing?

//Onkyo 608 - B&W LCR 60 S3 Center - B&W DM 602 S3 Fronts - TSC TSS & Phase Tech DST Surrounds - B&W ASW600 S3 Subwoofer//
120''+ Screen size club.

"At 20 bits, you are on the verge of dynamic range covering fly-farts-at-20-feet to intolerable pain. Really, what more could we need?"
AudioCheck -...
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post #4952 of 5284 Old 09-21-2011, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porschedrifter View Post

Yes there's also an option for that in the setup menu, i forget which section, and it doesn't go by source, however, it goes by format. So if you are finding it's a certain surround format that your sub is louder than the others, you can raise or lower the gain in that menu.

If you are finding a source is louder/lower than the others, you can also adjust levels to balance it out in the intellivolume menu.

But you said it's specifically your sub level, so that option probably wont help you.

So there's no way to save the subwoofer setting? It's irritating to always have to change it when I change from watching TV/BD to listening to music. Any other creative suggestions?
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post #4953 of 5284 Old 09-21-2011, 11:04 AM
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The only way to save the subwoofer setting is by going into the speaker level setup menu, but that is for all sources, as I said before.

The only LFE levels you can set are by sound format only.
However, your sub level should not vary that widely from source to source.
Are you absolutely positive it's not the entire volume that is louder than the last source? If so you can balance that source out with intellivolume.

Also,
Make sure there is no volume normalization going on or any type of bass boost or equalization from the other device connected that could be conflicting on that final bass output.

Does your device have another audio output method? What connection are you using to get the audio to your AVR? Try HDMI or Optical if you have the option.

//Onkyo 608 - B&W LCR 60 S3 Center - B&W DM 602 S3 Fronts - TSC TSS & Phase Tech DST Surrounds - B&W ASW600 S3 Subwoofer//
120''+ Screen size club.

"At 20 bits, you are on the verge of dynamic range covering fly-farts-at-20-feet to intolerable pain. Really, what more could we need?"
AudioCheck -...
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post #4954 of 5284 Old 09-29-2011, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porschedrifter View Post

I've noticed the 608 will give a single click noise (not through speakers, the click noise you hear when powering off or on AVR) about 10 minutes or so into being on, for no reason, no source change or anything, just while playing music with no user input at all.

My z2 is set as z2, not fw or fh. Center is turned off.

Is this a normal thing?

The click is for a reason, as I have posted before the 608 has an energy saving feature where it can run the output stage DC rails at 2 different voltages depending on how much power is being called for. Mine halves the idle wattage draw when that relay clicks from high to low, and yes the delay is roughly 10 minutes.

If you slowly turn the volume up after the high-low click you will hit a certain level (not a certain number) and it will click again as it switches back to high.

Look at it this way, if you are only sending 1 watt to an 8 ohm speaker on a 100 watt receiver you are sending it 2.83 volts AC, 100 watts @ 8 ohms is a 28.3 volt AC sine wave, to "slice" that sine wave out of symmetrical DC rails you need a rail voltage of at least 41 volts DC, HT mags stereo wattage test comes out to about 46 volts DC, and the service manual says 54.5.

As you can see slicing 2.83 volts AC out of at least 46 volts DC will cause lots of heat, IE 1 watt goes to the speaker and ~18 watts goes to the heatsink.

To combat this the 608's output stage lowers the rail voltages when the full wattage capability isn't required.
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post #4955 of 5284 Old 10-01-2011, 10:03 AM
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That's a pretty nifty feature, very cool.

//Onkyo 608 - B&W LCR 60 S3 Center - B&W DM 602 S3 Fronts - TSC TSS & Phase Tech DST Surrounds - B&W ASW600 S3 Subwoofer//
120''+ Screen size club.

"At 20 bits, you are on the verge of dynamic range covering fly-farts-at-20-feet to intolerable pain. Really, what more could we need?"
AudioCheck -...
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post #4956 of 5284 Old 10-01-2011, 10:48 AM
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I have my SR608 setup with Zone 2 enabled and it has been working well up until recently where I noticed only one of my Zone 2 Speakers was producing audio. I have troubleshooted all I can think of (reset to factory defaults, swap speakers, cables, swap connectors) and I concluded that audio is not coming from the left channel.

I connected the 2 speakers to the same output as a workaround but wanted to know if there is something else I should try. Could it be that that output stopped working? Any suggestions are welcomed.

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post #4957 of 5284 Old 10-04-2011, 01:45 PM
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Tried to search the thread but it is 166 pages and I'm not sure what search parameters I should use, so I am just going to ask.

I have 2 HDMI in (computer and cable box) plus 1 component (Xbox 360) in, and all going out through one HDMI to the TV. Whenever I switch between sources form either Cable or 360 to computer, it seems like the HDMI switched the resolution from 1080p to something less, and then back again when I switch to computer. It isn't to big of a deal except that it sometimes messes with my icons (they move around randomly) and also if I had a window maximized it seems to stay maximized but at the previous resolution, so I have to hit the window button then maximize button again to fix it.

Is there a fix for this?
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post #4958 of 5284 Old 10-06-2011, 01:24 AM
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Hello people,

I have very recently bought an Onkyo TX-SR608 receiver and I have a question regarding the speaker set up.
My speaker system (7.1) consists of 7 KEF Cresta 2 speakers plus a KEF PSW1000 subwoofer.
An old but reliable set which wo a gold Diapason in its time.
My system is set up in a Front Wide fashion.

My question concerns the subwoofer set up. When I run the automatic Audissey 2EQ setup the result are puzzling.

The sub is setup like this :
Input level : mid range
Crossover frequency : 40Hz (range from 40Hz to 140Hz)
Phase adjust : 0 (range from 0 to 180)

After the Audissey 2EQ setup all the speakers are set to 40Hz.
The sub is 120Hz and the distance is 6 meters which is twice the actual distance from the listening position.
Also most of the speakers are off distance by roughly 30 centimetres.

Did I do things correctly?
I have seen the "Official" Audyssey thread on this forum but did not understand all of it.
The subwoofer manual is not of much help either.

Thank you all for enlightening me.
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post #4959 of 5284 Old 10-07-2011, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilpaxim View Post

Tried to search the thread but it is 166 pages and I'm not sure what search parameters I should use, so I am just going to ask.

I have 2 HDMI in (computer and cable box) plus 1 component (Xbox 360) in, and all going out through one HDMI to the TV. Whenever I switch between sources form either Cable or 360 to computer, it seems like the HDMI switched the resolution from 1080p to something less, and then back again when I switch to computer. It isn't to big of a deal except that it sometimes messes with my icons (they move around randomly) and also if I had a window maximized it seems to stay maximized but at the previous resolution, so I have to hit the window button then maximize button again to fix it.

Is there a fix for this?

This is caused by your PC losing contact with the TV's EDID when you switch sources on the AVR, hence it is changing resolutions as it no longer knows which are valid.

You may be able to force a certain resolution or disable EDID autoconfig with your display adapter's (video card's) driver setup.

Be aware though that if you do this and then switch to a different display it may not work, IE if you force 1080p 60Hz YPbPr and you hook up something that only supports 720p it won't work.

I have had this problem working on people's computers with VGA CRT monitors before, I would set it to a resolution on my monitor (a Dell P990 or ViewSonic A90f+) that works only to have it say out of range once hooked back up to their monitor. In these cases EDID or DDC auto setting the resolution to something their monitor could handle would have been nice.
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post #4960 of 5284 Old 10-07-2011, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asandova View Post

I have my SR608 setup with Zone 2 enabled and it has been working well up until recently where I noticed only one of my Zone 2 Speakers was producing audio. I have troubleshooted all I can think of (reset to factory defaults, swap speakers, cables, swap connectors) and I concluded that audio is not coming from the left channel.

I connected the 2 speakers to the same output as a workaround but wanted to know if there is something else I should try. Could it be that that output stopped working? Any suggestions are welcomed.


If you are using the Z2 RCA line level output I don't know, if you are using powered Z2 do both speakers work if you turn off Z2 and hook them up to the surround back connections while playing a source in 7.1?
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post #4961 of 5284 Old 10-10-2011, 12:34 PM
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danielthechskid, thanks. That is good info to know. Since I really don't plan to ever move this computer anywhere, I might just try it. I figure worse comes to worse, I can always enter safe mode and disable those settings, right?
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post #4962 of 5284 Old 10-11-2011, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielthechskid View Post


If you are using the Z2 RCA line level output I don't know, if you are using powered Z2 do both speakers work if you turn off Z2 and hook them up to the surround back connections while playing a source in 7.1?

They're hooked to the powered output, I'll try your suggestion, thanks
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post #4963 of 5284 Old 10-13-2011, 12:18 AM
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Just picked up a 608 last night to replace my 506 and loving having true 7.1 through HDMI versus having Optical and Digital connections.
Quick question though, what is the newest firmware?

My current firmware versions
M: 1.04
D: 1.00
V: 1.03
S: 1.02

What would updating this do? Is there a change-log somewhere?

Thanks
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post #4964 of 5284 Old 10-13-2011, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandPrixGT300 View Post

Just picked up a 608 last night to replace my 506 and loving having true 7.1 through HDMI versus having Optical and Digital connections.
Quick question though, what is the newest firmware?

My current firmware versions
M: 1.04
D: 1.00
V: 1.03
S: 1.02

What would updating this do? Is there a change-log somewhere?

Thanks

I don't think there are any updates for the 608????

Here is my current gear: Onkyo TX-NR809 Receiver, CarverTFM-35 Front Amp, Sony EX55-720 3D TV, Oppo BDP-103 3D Blu-Ray Player, Panasonic DMB-BD50 Blu-Ray Player (for Cinavia encrusted copy playback), Polk RTI-12 Fronts, Polk LSiM703 Rears, Polk DSW Pro600, Older Infinity Center.
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post #4965 of 5284 Old 10-13-2011, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DFREAK View Post

I don't think there are any updates for the 608????

It was mentioned earlier that there is a M: 1.05 firmware but it has to be updated through the optical port not as easy as the usb/network ones. I'm just wondering if I should take it to the service place 50mi away to get it updated or if it would not be worth it.
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post #4966 of 5284 Old 10-13-2011, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandPrixGT300 View Post

It was mentioned earlier that there is a M: 1.05 firmware but it has to be updated through the optical port not as easy as the usb/network ones. I'm just wondering if I should take it to the service place 50mi away to get it updated or if it would not be worth it.

Sleep Easy and Forget it
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post #4967 of 5284 Old 10-13-2011, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Sleep Easy and Forget it

OK I won't worry about it.
Do you know what the changes in 1.05 are for?
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post #4968 of 5284 Old 10-13-2011, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandPrixGT300 View Post

OK I won't worry about it.
Do you know what the changes in 1.05 are for?

It was for a DirectTV 3D issue.

All that is behind us now.
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post #4969 of 5284 Old 10-13-2011, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

It was for a DirectTV 3D issue.

All that is behind us now.

Cool. Loving this thing, picked it up for $XXX out the door with 3 year walk in warranty which seemed like a no brainer. It was a display model but everything except the box was there.
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post #4970 of 5284 Old 10-13-2011, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilpaxim View Post

danielthechskid, thanks. That is good info to know. Since I really don't plan to ever move this computer anywhere, I might just try it. I figure worse comes to worse, I can always enter safe mode and disable those settings, right?

Probably, but it might require changing something in an INI file or a registry entry because setting a res in safe mode never worked for me when I switched back to normal mode.
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post #4971 of 5284 Old 10-13-2011, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asandova View Post

They're hooked to the powered output, I'll try your suggestion, thanks

OK if both SB work (all channel stereo would make testing this easiest) that means that the power amp in question is functional (since SB/FH/FW and Z2 all share the same power amp channels) and the problem is somewhere on the speaker terminal board, such as bad contacts in that speaker protection relay. If that channel is still dead then the power amp itself or the signal to it is faulty.
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post #4972 of 5284 Old 10-14-2011, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinyRK View Post

How much power does the 608 puke out when driving all 7 channels?
And don't say 100W, because that's only applicable when the 2 front channels are driven.

Thanks in advance

did not see an answer so here goes,

AV Receiver Reviews
Onkyo TX-SR608 A/V Receiver HT Labs Measures
HT Labs Measures

Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1% distortion at 82.3 watts
1% distortion at 84.7 watts

Seven channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1% distortion at 30.9 watts
1% distortion at 40.1 watts

Analog frequency response in Direct mode:
-0.04 dB at 10 Hz
-0.01 dB at 20 Hz
+0.00 dB at 20 kHz
-2.59 dB at 50 kHz

Analog frequency response with stereo signal processing:
-0.10 dB at 10 Hz
-0.03 dB at 20 Hz
-0.13 dB at 20 kHz
-58.80 dB at 50 kHz
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post #4973 of 5284 Old 10-14-2011, 11:26 AM
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80+ watts into all of 5 channels at 0.1% distortion is pretty awesome.
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post #4974 of 5284 Old 10-14-2011, 11:53 AM
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Yeah, I'm running Polk RTI4's with mine and only paid two clams for mine and I figured 82 WPC are fine for my house. I had to buy this unit because of the cost. It was just to cheap to pass up. My first pick would have been a H-K or a Marantz but I did not have the money for those units.
So far so good, It has a lot of sound options and you just have to fine the right synergy between the speakers you select and the Onkyo.
I did have the pic go out on me once but I moved the HDMI cable slightly and have never had another problem. So far for the slight amount of dough I paid it has been a receiver I cannot complain about.
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post #4975 of 5284 Old 10-14-2011, 12:10 PM
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Just to note, that's better than:

Yamaha A1000 at 53.9 watts
Pioneer 1021 at 46.1
Yamaha 1065 at 50.4
Anthem MRX 300 at 71.4
Denon 2112 at 76.6
Pioneer 1120 at 47
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post #4976 of 5284 Old 10-14-2011, 12:22 PM
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Yes, you have to read between the lines when reading specs.
100 WPC at 1Khz means nothing and that the amps are probably not up to the task of driving quality speakers. I did want high current and discreet amps in my receiver which is why I picked this receiver.
I've owned H-K before, 55 WPC with all channels driven. One thing about H-K is that they do deliver the power they quote and they sound fantastic.
When you buy the bottom lines of mainstream manufacturers you usually get underpowered units and if you use demanding speakers you can burn those speakers up pretty easily by cranking the volume and driving the receiver into clipping.

I would not use this receiver for 7.1 channel sound due to the power drop. I do not want to burn up my nice Polk speakers.
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post #4977 of 5284 Old 10-15-2011, 11:21 AM
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Quick question -- I listen to music through PC but its location is not conducive to running a cable to the receiver. Is this my best bet: http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-UWF-1-Wi.../dp/B004WR125O ? Thanks in advance.
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post #4978 of 5284 Old 10-15-2011, 11:36 AM
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The 608 has no network capability, so the Wifi adapter will do nothing at all. You need to run an audio cable from the PC to the receiver.

Your other options are to attach a wireless music streamer to the receiver (like a Squeezebox) or to use some type of wireless audio transmitter.
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post #4979 of 5284 Old 10-15-2011, 01:57 PM
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Oh damn -- thanks. I'll look into the squeezebox
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post #4980 of 5284 Old 10-16-2011, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DELAWARE View Post

Oh damn -- thanks. I'll look into the squeezebox

highly recommend the squeeze touch,sounds superb using the onkyo's 608 dacs
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