The "Official" Pioneer VSX-1020-K Owner's Thread - Page 127 - AVS Forum
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post #3781 of 4554 Old 11-10-2011, 07:39 PM
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Does the later manufactured 1020's come with the updated firmware?
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post #3782 of 4554 Old 11-11-2011, 03:55 AM
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The 1021 is on sale at Newegg today for the same price that Amazon had the 1020 the other day.

Coupon Code:EMCJJJJ24
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post #3783 of 4554 Old 11-11-2011, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post

It's funny, I got the Yamaha 867 after the 1020, it has osd volume and it is the biggest complaint by far. I tried explaining that some regarded it as a feature...

Endless complaints that it can't be turned off.

Well you gotta admit that if you can't turn it off, it may be annoying to some. E.g. even with Midnight Mode or ALC on, when my 1yo daughter is sleeping and I'm listening to a movie, I constantly adjust the volume. An overlay on top of the movie would be extremely annoying. It's still an interesting feature if the receiver is too far away to read the display comfortably or when the receiver is hidden from view altogether.

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Does the later manufactured 1020's come with the updated firmware?

Not sure about that. What does this updated firmware do? I purchased my 1020 at the end of summer, I could tell you.

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post #3784 of 4554 Old 11-13-2011, 01:30 PM
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I've had my VSX-1020 receiver and been happy with it for more than a year....but recently it went wack! And it's no longer under warranty.

First, I've had it hooked up to the same equipment the entire time....no moves or changing of cables or anything.

The first problem occurred when I came home and powered everything up (TV, Receiver, Dish)....TV and picture came up but no sound.....from any inputs...not even static...not even when going into speaker setup/testing menues. I checked all cables...good and secure. I decided to turn off power to everything, unplug power strip, check all connections again, and power back up. After powering back up I had sound and everything seemed okay for about a week.

Then it happened again, No Sound. Cycling power did not work. Some searching on this thread, I found someone who said they had to unplug their HDMI cable before powering up, then connect HDMI....I tried that and to my amazement it worked. I did this last sunday.....but after a few hours of watching football I noticed the volume seemed to keep creeping up....and I kept turning it down......and eventually I noticed the volume was not responding. I opened the entertainment center door and saw the volume was turned down to the -70's. I could turn the volume dial way up and way down without the sound level changing. I cycled the power off and turned it back on.....and again, No Sound from any inputs!

What the heck is going on? I tried searching the forum some more but couldn't find this issue....maybe I'm using the wrong keywords. Pioneer support does not get good reviews on this forum so I haven't wasted my time calling them.

And the nearest service center found on the website is Jim's Electronics in Eugene, OR.....does anyone have experience with this shop?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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post #3785 of 4554 Old 11-14-2011, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jensjon View Post

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi jensjon -- sorry to hear about your troubles. It seems like the unit is defective... just a quick question: have you tried changing the volume through the iOS app?

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post #3786 of 4554 Old 11-15-2011, 03:54 AM
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Today's woot is the 1021 for less than 3. woot.com, today only or until it sells out.
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post #3787 of 4554 Old 11-15-2011, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post

Today's woot is the 1021 for less than 3. woot.com, today only or until it sells out.

I got the same mail. At this price, I'd be tempted to buy 3 or 4 of them Alas I'm not sure if residents of Canada can join Woot.

EDIT: nope, seems they can't ship to Canada.

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post #3788 of 4554 Old 11-15-2011, 08:57 AM
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Ship them to my house and come get them at your leisure!
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post #3789 of 4554 Old 11-15-2011, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post

Ship them to my house and come get them at your leisure!

He he considering the incredible deals that you Americans get on electronics, I'm half considering renting a cabin in upper Maine where I could get receivers, speakers, and other goodies delivered. Unless you're very close to the border, I don't think the road trip would be worth it

The problem is, whenever I visit the US, it's generally by plane, and carrying a receiver or a speaker in an airport is a major PITA, fees notwhitsanding.

My brother lives in California, but shipping from there would cost hundreds of dollars, and import brokerage fees would apply. Also, guarantees would be void. So we're pretty much condemned to envy you...

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post #3790 of 4554 Old 11-15-2011, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post

Today's woot is the 1021 for less than 3. woot.com, today only or until it sells out.

Hit slick deals, sold out...
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post #3791 of 4554 Old 11-17-2011, 09:30 AM
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Just got a VSX-1020-k.

I have my PS3 hooked up via HDMI, tv is working, ipod works great. But I can not get my Xbox to work with Component. I tried both the DVD and DVR inputs, double checked the colors were lined up right, restarted everything, went through all the resolutions on my Xbox. I kept hooking the Xbox back up to my TV directly to verify that everything was working. I even tried using just the RCA video cable and nothing.

I went into the onscreen setup menus and made sure everything was assigned properly.

I went into the video menu and the only option available is upconvert and I toggled that back and forth a bunch of different times.

I do get audio. Just no video...

I must be missing something here?
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post #3792 of 4554 Old 11-17-2011, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hagbardceline View Post

Just got a VSX-1020-k.

I have my PS3 hooked up via HDMI, tv is working, ipod works great. But I can not get my Xbox to work with Component. I tried both the DVD and DVR inputs, double checked the colors were lined up right, restarted everything, went through all the resolutions on my Xbox. I kept hooking the Xbox back up to my TV directly to verify that everything was working. I even tried using just the RCA video cable and nothing.

I went into the onscreen setup menus and made sure everything was assigned properly.

I went into the video menu and the only option available is upconvert and I toggled that back and forth a bunch of different times.

I do get audio. Just no video...

I must be missing something here?

Not sure I'd be able to help you as you tried lots of different things. Just a few things though... First, an obvious question: why don't you use HDMI with your Xbox? It's really much simpler that way

So you tried connecting the component output of the Xbox to both the DVD or DVR inputs of the 1020. These are in fact labeled "IN1" and "IN2", and by default are assigned to the DVD and DVR/BDR "input functions", respectively. You say you get audio: where did you plug your audio?

I ask because by default, if you use digital inputs, the COAX-1 input is associated with the DVD input function; OPT-1 is associated with the TV/SAT input function and OPT-2 is associated with DVR/BDR. This is assignable, but those are the defaults (see p.14 of the manual). So if you did not reassign the input terminals of the various input functions, and used OPT-1 for example, with the default setting, this is associated with TV/SAT. If you hear audio on OPT-1, then it means that you're selecting the TV/SAT input function (you may have renamed it), and by default, it is not associated with any video input (strangely perhaps).

I hope what I'm saying is clear... It's just that the "input functions" (e.g. DVD, BD, TV/SAT, DVR/BDR, HDMI 1-4, HDMI 5 and CD in the settings of the receiver) are simply labels that can be renamed, and which are associated by default to input terminals (COAX-1-2, IN1-2, OPT-1-2, HDMI-1-5). And these associations can be changed in the Input Setup menu.

That being said, you seem to have checked that out, so maybe the problem lies elsewhere. You say that you toggled the V.CONV (upconversion) option a few times... be sure to set in to ON. You should leave RES (output resolution) to AUTO or PURE and ASP (aspect ratio) to THROUGH.

I'm assuming here that you are using HDMI for the receiver-to-tv connection?

Here's a quite puzzling bottom note at p.41 of the manual:

Quote:


For high-definition video (using component video connections), or when digital video conversion is switched off (in Setting the Video options on page 70), you must connect your TV to this receiver using the same type of video cable as you used to connect your video component.

It seems to suggest that if you're using component for HD video between the Xbox and the receiver, then you'd have to use component between the receiver and tv. This contradicts the upconversion diagram on p.22, but perhaps it is only valid for standard-definition Component input. So the 1020 would no be able to convert analog HD video to digital (HDMI) HD video.

If this is true, then it means that you have two solutions: use HDMI for your XBox, or use standard-definition for the Xbox. I know what I would do...

EDIT: I missed another bottom note on p.22 of the manual, which seems to confirm the above hypothesis:
Quote:


The signal input resolutions that can be converted from the component video ipnut for the HDMI output are 480i/576i, 480p/576p, 720p and 1080i. 1080p signal cannot be converted.

So if the Xbox is configured to output 1080p on component, it cannot be converted to digital and sent to the tv via HDMI. The best options are then either to use HDMI for the xbox, or set the Xbox resolution to 720p; this is the maximum resolution of most games anyway. It may be tempting to set the V.CONV parameter to PURE in that case; not sure if upconversion from 720p analog to 1080p digital is better than sending straight 720p analog-to-digital to the TV.

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post #3793 of 4554 Old 11-17-2011, 11:47 AM
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So you tried connecting the component output of the Xbox to both the DVD or DVR inputs of the 1020. These are in fact labeled "IN1" and "IN2", and by default are assigned to the DVD and DVR/BDR "input functions", respectively. You say you get audio: where did you plug your audio?

Yeah I double checked that I was plugged into IN2 for DVR. I plugged the RCA audio cables into the corresponding DVR inputs to the right of the component inputs. I went into the Input Setup Menu and the interesting thing I saw: COAX was assigned for audio and Component was assigned for digital video. I still had audio no matter what I chose, COAX, Optical, or off or bypass or whatever the other option is.

Quote:


That being said, you seem to have checked that out, so maybe the problem lies elsewhere. You say that you toggled the V.CONV (upconversion) option a few times... be sure to set in to ON. You should leave RES (output resolution) to AUTO or PURE and ASP (aspect ratio) to THROUGH.

Another strange thing. V.CONV was the only submenu item available in the Video menu...? I did see all the other sub items with my HDMI inputs.

Quote:


It seems to suggest that if you're using component for HD video between the Xbox and the receiver, then you'd have to use component between the receiver and tv. This contradicts the upconversion diagram on p.22, but perhaps it is only valid for standard-definition Component input. So the 1020 would no be able to convert analog HD video to digital (HDMI) HD video.

Ah, I bet you are right, that must be what's causing it...but how stupid! So the receiver can do HDMI or Component but not both...My Xbox is old enough that it doesn't have HDMI. So I guess I'll still be using my TV as the video switcher...

One other question: My main stereo speakers are 8 ohms. Can I use a center and rear surrounds at 6 Ohm or is that mismatch harmful to the amp?

Thanks!
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post #3794 of 4554 Old 11-17-2011, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hagbardceline View Post

Another strange thing. V.CONV was the only submenu item available in the Video menu...? I did see all the other sub items with my HDMI inputs.

Yeah I think all items only apply to HDMI output, so if the receiver can't output to HDMI, it doesn't offer them.

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Originally Posted by hagbardceline View Post

Ah, I bet you are right, that must be what's causing it...but how stupid! So the receiver can do HDMI or Component but not both...My Xbox is old enough that it doesn't have HDMI. So I guess I'll still be using my TV as the video switcher...

Just to be clear: it can do both at the same time. The thing that it cannot do is convert 1080p from the analog component input to digital HDMI output. It can convert any other resolution from analog component to digital HDMI out.

You say that your Xbox is old enought not to have HDMI... we're speaking about an Xbox360 right? Wow, I didn't know there were 360s without HDMI, nor did I know that 360s this old were still alive after all those years without RROD'ing

Wikipedia says that the Xbox360 Core lacked HDMI output so that must be your model. At launch it couldn't even do 1080p, only 1080i. 1080p was added during an system update. It seems you're even lucky to have a TV able to take 1080p component inputs. The thing is, there is very few 1080p content on the Xbox (there is more on the PS3, especially if you watch blu-ray movies). If I understand the 1020 manual correctly, if you switch to 1080i or 720p on your Xbox, you'll be able to output to HDMI. That may be a very minor change since most of the games are 720p max anyway.

When you play a 720p game and the Xbox is set to 1080p, it will upconvert to 1080p and then the receiver won't be able to convert from component to digital (HDMI). If you set the Xbox to 720p, you won't loose any quality for all 720p content, and you'll simply let the receiver do the upconversion if you so wish (you can also set RES to PURE and let your TV do whatever it wants with the 720p signal). IMHO this solution is better than plugging your Xbox to the TV, unless for some reason you really want 1080p output from your Xbox.

Another possibility: the entry-level Xbox, with HDMI, now regularly comes on sale at around 150$ :P

Quote:


One other question: My main stereo speakers are 8 ohms. Can I use a center and rear surrounds at 6 Ohm or is that mismatch harmful to the amp?

No problem at all. Use MCACC to calibrate for volume. Not harmful to the amp (it is rated 4-8 ohms), but it may affect volume level.

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post #3795 of 4554 Old 11-17-2011, 12:44 PM
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Wikipedia says that the Xbox360 Core lacked HDMI output so that must be your model. At launch it couldn't even do 1080p, only 1080i. 1080p was added during an system update. It seems you're even lucky to have a TV able to take 1080p component inputs. The thing is, there is very few 1080p content on the Xbox (there is more on the PS3, especially if you watch blu-ray movies). If I understand the 1020 manual correctly, if you switch to 1080i or 720p on your Xbox, you'll be able to output to HDMI. That may be a very minor change since most of the games are 720p max anyway.

I'm pretty sure I tried 720p but I'll try that again to make sure. Yes it is an old (4 years maybe?) 360 and I normally have it set to 1080p.

Thanks for your help!
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post #3796 of 4554 Old 11-17-2011, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by hagbardceline View Post

I'm pretty sure I tried 720p but I'll try that again to make sure. Yes it is an old (4 years maybe?) 360 and I normally have it set to 1080p.

If it still doesn't work with the Xbox set to output 720p (and V.CONV set to ON of course), I really don't know what's wrong.

If it's "only" 4 yo, are you sure you don't have an HDMI output? I mean if you only lack an HDMI cable, the problem is much simpler -- Ok it's entirely possible that it's a 4 yo Xbox 360 Core: this model was discontinued in October 2007 and replaced by the Arcade.

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post #3797 of 4554 Old 11-17-2011, 02:04 PM
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I am probably one of the few that uses component and it works without setting anything up on the receiver. It is a DVR, so it's only outputting 1080i at max.

I use component because you could split it cheaply before hdmi splitters were reasonably priced and reliable. I have it running 4 tvs.
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post #3798 of 4554 Old 11-19-2011, 05:16 AM
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1021 on sale at newegg. cc EMCYTZT920
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post #3799 of 4554 Old 11-19-2011, 07:18 AM
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Hi,

I have a 1020 for past year now and its working fine. However there are couple of issues I need your help on.

1) I have a 5.1 set up with Polk RTi4 fronts, Polk PSW10 sub and CS10 center speaker. When I run the MCACC, by default it selects my fronts as large which I believe means that it wont input any signal to my sub. So I manually change it to small. However when I go to sleep and turn the power off and wake up next morning, the AVR by default again selects large speakers. What is the secret of saving my speaker setting so that its always small and I get bass from my SW?

2) I have a tatasky HD box which has an issue outputting 5.1 audio over HDMI. So I got a optical Toslink cable and connected my set top box to AVR. This is the recommended way to get around this problem with my set top box. I believe by default the AVR selects both audio and video over HDMI. How do I tell my AVR to select only video over HDMI and choose Optical cable as audio source?
I am asking this because out of 100 or so channels..we only have 8 HD channels. The display on my AVR is always DD Movie which should change to DD DIgital when I select the 8 HD channels but it doesn't (In India we get stereo over standard digital channels and 5.1 over HD channels). So please help me direct my AVR to get only video over HDMI and audio over the optical cable so that I can enjoy 5.1 sound on these few HD channels we get in India.

Thanks in advance for all your help!
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post #3800 of 4554 Old 11-19-2011, 01:46 PM
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I've had the 1020 for almost exactly one year and today it started showing only the green screen and audio. It always has a green screen before the video signal kicks in but it's not going any further now. I have 3 HDMI connections - 2 pcs and a Comcast DVR and with the pcs it'll go green and then just black. With the Comcast DVR it just stays green. Usually if it gets a glitch just changing the input selection and then switching back takes care of it. I tried shutting it off then back on, no change. Tried unplugging for about 1/2 hr, still didn't help.

Looking for suggestions as to something I may be missing or is it just dying on me?
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post #3801 of 4554 Old 11-19-2011, 02:36 PM
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Does the on screen display work? If it is set to pass video through does it work then?

Dave N
Joppa, Maryland
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post #3802 of 4554 Old 11-19-2011, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dpnaylor View Post

Does the on screen display work? If it is set to pass video through does it work then?

No. It gets the green screen also, except you can see it try to show (actually looked red as it flashed) but wouldn't come up. I reset to factory defaults and that didn't work either.

Looks like it's just going to have to go to the shop. 12 days past the original warranty, but I did use a credit card that extends the warranty. Just a pain in the butt during college football season and it pulls this on a Saturday.
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post #3803 of 4554 Old 11-19-2011, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnprasad View Post

When I run the MCACC, by default it selects my fronts as large which I believe means that it wont input any signal to my sub. So I manually change it to small. However when I go to sleep and turn the power off and wake up next morning, the AVR by default again selects large speakers. What is the secret of saving my speaker setting so that its always small and I get bass from my SW?

Well it's not exactly as you say. You're right that when running MCACC, the speakers default to LARGE. However that doesn't mean that your subwoofer won't get any signal. When speakers are set to LARGE and subwoofer to YES, the LFE channel (low frequency effects -- the .1 in 5.1 or 7.1) is sent to the subwoofer. When speakers are set to SMALL, the part of every channel below the crossover frequency is sent to the subwoofer instead of of the associated speaker. When speakers are set to LARGE and the subwoofer is set to PLUS, the speakers get all the frequencies but the low-frequency components are also sent to the subwoofer (but possibly attenuated -- the bass produced by the subwoofer is less intense than when setting the speakers to SMALL).

That being said I have absolutely no idea why the speakers would revert to LARGE after you set them to SMALL. Unless you're running MCACC each time?

Quote:


2) I have a tatasky HD box which has an issue outputting 5.1 audio over HDMI. So I got a optical Toslink cable and connected my set top box to AVR. This is the recommended way to get around this problem with my set top box. I believe by default the AVR selects both audio and video over HDMI. How do I tell my AVR to select only video over HDMI and choose Optical cable as audio source?

This is a trick question. On the 1020 there is only one of the six HDMI inputs that can take digital audio from optical in, and this is HDMI 1. So you must connect your HD box to HDMI 1. (See p.41 of the manual on this). Then go tho HOME -> System Setup -> Input Setup then choose the HDMI 1 input function (you may have renamed it though). There you will be able to select either OPT-1, OPT-2, COAX-1 or COAX-2 for the Digital In source. Just note where your Toslink cable is connected and select the appropriate Digital In for HDMI-1.

Note that HDMI-1 is the second HDMI input from the left on the back pannel (the first is labeled BD-IN).

I hope this helped...

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post #3804 of 4554 Old 11-19-2011, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lsilvest View Post

Looks like it's just going to have to go to the shop. 12 days past the original warranty, but I did use a credit card that extends the warranty. Just a pain in the butt during college football season and it pulls this on a Saturday.

It certainly sucks. You seem to be the second in a few days to have problems with the 1020's HDMI output. If the shop confirms that the receiver's HDMI chip is fried or something like this, it would be interesting to know. I hope this is not a trend -- I got my 1020 only 2 months ago but I planned on keeping it more than a year...

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post #3805 of 4554 Old 11-19-2011, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

It certainly sucks. You seem to be the second in a few days to have problems with the 1020's HDMI output. If the shop confirms that the receiver's HDMI chip is fried or something like this, it would be interesting to know. I hope this is not a trend -- I got my 1020 only 2 months ago but I planned on keeping it more than a year...

I sent a report to Pioneer, but am sure there is nothing that I can do, but you never know. It may not have been the fault of the Pioneer. It happened when I switched from a Comcast DVR to a PC. I had just put a new mobo in the PC and had been having problems with the onboard hdmi which I thought were bios related, but maybe it was defective and shorted out just when the 1020 was turned to it. May be coinicidental, but I don't believe in coincidences.
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post #3806 of 4554 Old 11-20-2011, 06:15 AM
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[quote=

That being said I have absolutely no idea why the speakers would revert to LARGE after you set them to SMALL. Unless you're running MCACC each time?

I hope this helped...[/QUOTE]

This website does not have a thank you button. But thanks none the less Neutro. For your first MCACC large/small speaker issue, I guess keeping it large means even my left and rights will have bass...somewhere I read that this might screw them up..not sure if its true..hence to keep it safe I wanted to send all bass to the SW. I have polk Rti4 speakers..so not sure what effect it will have on them.

For second question - you are right - I did do that and it now works and it does display DD Digital on that. Thanks for your suggestion

I have hopefully one last question. See this year during my multiple official trips from India to USA, I bought my left and right (Polk RTi4 - 99 bucks) Center (Polk CS-10 - 99 bucks) and Sub (polk PSW10 - 99 bucks) - you can imagine all the physical effort involved in getting them to India!! Anyways I am very happy with my left, right and center...but somehow by Sub has been a dampner..give the fact that this isthe highest selling sub on Amazon and has a 5 star rating..I was expecting some miracle..but my cheap Yamaha HTIB sub was giving much more thump than this one...I am not sure if I screwed up on the setting..which for the sub is very limited - just connect a RCA cable to the AVR and increase the volume.....any suggestions why my sub experience is a big underwhelming please? Thanks gain for your responses.
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post #3807 of 4554 Old 11-20-2011, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by arnprasad View Post

...any suggestions why my sub experience is a big underwhelming please? Thanks gain for your responses.

Probably not your imagination:
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...listening.html

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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #3808 of 4554 Old 11-20-2011, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by arnprasad View Post

I guess keeping it large means even my left and rights will have bass...somewhere I read that this might screw them up..not sure if its true..hence to keep it safe I wanted to send all bass to the SW. I have polk Rti4 speakers..so not sure what effect it will have on them.

Don't worry -- you can damage speakers by sending too much power, this is true. But then again, most speakers are rated for more power that the average AVR, and you should really be safe with the 1020 as it's not particularly powerful. Also, such damage typically occurs to tweeters first as they are more delicate, and before it will happen, you will hear distorsion first.

So you won't damage your speakers by sending low frequencies to them. The only thing is, your speakers may do a pretty bad job at rendering them, hence the sub.

Quote:
I have hopefully one last question.

Questions are the raison d'etre of these forums

Quote:
See this year during my multiple official trips from India to USA, I bought my left and right (Polk RTi4 - 99 bucks) Center (Polk CS-10 - 99 bucks) and Sub (polk PSW10 - 99 bucks) - you can imagine all the physical effort involved in getting them to India!!

Did you actually brought them with you on a plane? US defenitely gets better deals than anywhere else in the worlds -- at least for speakers -- so I'm wondering if I shouldn't do some shopping the next time I'll be there. However I really don't see myself with speakers in an airport.

Quote:
suggestions why my sub experience is a big underwhelming please? Thanks gain for your responses.

It may be that the sub is not that good as LastButNotLeast implied. But in general, getting the right amount of bass from a sub may be rather complicated. For example, for me MCACC dials too much bass to my taste; ears hurt even at low volume.

The thing is, a subwoofer will generally excite resonance modes of the room in which its sits (that's why it's not directional at all, and you can even have success at hiding a sub in a closet for example). However the position of the sub and of the listener will have a large importance. Moving the sub (or your ears) a few centimeters may completely change the picture in some rooms. Before you consider buying a new subwoofer, I'd suggest you move your sub around first to see if it improves the bass. There is no easy way to predict what position is the best as it depends on the shape of the room, furniture, etc.

Also, you can redo a MCACC calibration, first adjusting the subwoofer volume approximately mid-way (mine is around 40%). If the volume of the sub is too low, the 1020 won't be able to compensate even if it boosts subwoofer signal. You can see what correction to the sub volume the 1020 makes in the MCACC data check menu. If it's more than a few dBs (positive), then maybe you should turn up the volume on the sub and redo a calibration. (If the sub volume is too high, the reverse is true, the 1020 will have trouble adjusting the sub signal volume low enough).

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post #3809 of 4554 Old 11-20-2011, 12:32 PM
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However the position of the sub and of the listener will have a large importance. Moving the sub (or your ears) a few centimeters may completely change the picture in some rooms. Before you consider buying a new subwoofer, I'd suggest you move your sub around first to see if it improves the bass. There is no easy way to predict what position is the best as it depends on the shape of the room, furniture, etc.

The actual technique is referred to as the "subwoofer crawl." You put the sub in your listening position, play some bass-heavy music with which you are familiar, and crawl around on the floor where you would consider putting the sub. You will hear a dramatic difference in the quality of the sound. Put the sub (if you can) where it sounds best.
Michael

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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #3810 of 4554 Old 11-20-2011, 08:35 PM
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It certainly sucks. You seem to be the second in a few days to have problems with the 1020's HDMI output. If the shop confirms that the receiver's HDMI chip is fried or something like this, it would be interesting to know. I hope this is not a trend -- I got my 1020 only 2 months ago but I planned on keeping it more than a year...

Well, good news. I had left it off since yesterday and was getting ready to take it in to the shop tomorrow, but thought I'd give it another shot. Turned it on and turned on bd and it was fine. I hadn't done a thing since I shut it off yesterday. Only bad part was since I had set it to factory defaults I had to reset everything.

Weird.
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