The "Official" Pioneer VSX-1020-K Owner's Thread - Page 153 - AVS Forum
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post #4561 of 4580 Old 11-07-2014, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Yeap View Post
I tested with the media player to set to 576p and the display is OK (can be shown in the new TV). But when changing to the higher res like 1080p, the output just doesn't seem to work.
Wait wait what is this exactly?

You say media_player ->VSX -> TV2 works int 576p but not in 1080p? That is really really strange.

There may be resolution conversion issues at play. TV2 can display 1080p right? Is it a 720p model? Just asking because the 1020 cannot *downconvert*, only upconvert. Also, is you RES video option set to "AUTO" or to another resolution? If the VSX's output resolution is not set to AUTO and the resolution selected is not supported by the TV then no picture will be seen. Do you hear audio on the sources that don't make it to TV2?

In any case you could try disabling conversion if all your sources are digital (V. CONV setting in the video opitions) and let the TV do the job if needed.


Last edited by neutro; 11-07-2014 at 08:03 AM.
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post #4562 of 4580 Old 11-16-2014, 02:47 PM
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Fried Sub Woofer

I fried my old sub woofer. Connected another that I know works and lights remained red. I tried all sorts of settings and still not working. The receiver works fine otherwise. I tried another cable and still same problem. Could this connection have been fried without it affecting anything else? BTW, what is the purpose of the screw near the sub-woofer connection.

Thanks a lot for any help.

Dennis
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post #4563 of 4580 Old 11-16-2014, 05:06 PM
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Help. I cannot find the lip sync function. I got a new projector and I have lost my receiver manual. Can someone yellow how to get to it
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post #4564 of 4580 Old 11-17-2014, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonYank View Post
I fried my old sub woofer. Connected another that I know works and lights remained red. I tried all sorts of settings and still not working. The receiver works fine otherwise. I tried another cable and still same problem. Could this connection have been fried without it affecting anything else? BTW, what is the purpose of the screw near the sub-woofer connection.
Which red light are you referring to? On the sub or on the AVR? Connection could be fried but I'd try to run Auto Setup first, surely the new sub needs to be calibrated first. Let the AVR find it. If it can't and if the sub works fine in another setup, then I'd suspect something is wrong with the sub output.

I think the screw is just holding the connector to the back panel. There are screws next to about every connectors on the back panel.

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post #4565 of 4580 Old 11-17-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by neutro View Post
Which red light are you referring to? On the sub or on the AVR? Connection could be fried but I'd try to run Auto Setup first, surely the new sub needs to be calibrated first. Let the AVR find it. If it can't and if the sub works fine in another setup, then I'd suspect something is wrong with the sub output.

I think the screw is just holding the connector to the back panel. There are screws next to about every connectors on the back panel.
The red lights were on the second sub. The first was dead. The setup showed the subwoofer but there was no sound coming out of it when I did the manual sound check. I raised the volume on both the sub as well as in the speaker setup menu. No sound. I guess I should be happy the whole receiver wasn't fried.
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post #4566 of 4580 Old 11-26-2014, 08:46 PM
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So I'm getting some occasional humm when I turn on the unit, and lately the unit either over heats or short circuits at about 19 dab, sometimes I can get lower before it shuts done... Just a red light until I turn it off and back on.

I'm thinking of upgrading the unit this year. I've liked this 1020k. Can anyone recommend what I should get next? I want to be ready for 4k, but don't need any other real frills or gimmicks.
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post #4567 of 4580 Old 11-27-2014, 08:31 PM
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Maybe a speaker wire short? If its easy, replace them all.
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post #4568 of 4580 Old 11-28-2014, 04:20 PM
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Hi all,

I'm a happy owner of a VSX-1020, but I face a problem I can't resolve.
All is working fine, except than sometimes, with doing nothing, I have an unexpected factory reset, and I loose all my configuration
It's very painful, as I loose everything : Tuner setting, internet radio configuration MCACC configuration, etc...
First time I thought it was my mistake by cutting power supply before switching off the amplifier, but now it's happen 4 or 5 times in 2 years and I know it's not my fault.

Do someone have the same problem?
Is there a solution to avoid this?

In fact I have another problem, even if I'm not sure the amplifier is guilty for it. I use the USB device to save MCACC setup a few time and read some music, but I damage 2 USB keys with doing that. Since that I dare not using anymore the USB connection...
Is that a common problem?
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post #4569 of 4580 Old 11-30-2014, 07:47 AM
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HI . I have not used my pioneer remote for 2 years now since the only functions i use every day is change input and change volume for which I have knobs...now I have new speakers, new sub and want to do the MCACC set up...but I realize that the remote doesnt work...since this model is two years plus now....will any of the new pioneer model remotes work on this one? what is the way out please? I live in India and hence unlike people in the western world..not easy to buy it off ebay. Thx
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post #4570 of 4580 Old 12-01-2014, 08:50 AM
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@FlyJack : I have no idea, sorry
@arnprasad : you could also use a universal remote (e.g. Logitech Harmony -- the 1020 is in their IR codes database) or the Pioneer app for smartphones (I *think* it can do what a remote does, not sure).

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post #4571 of 4580 Old 12-02-2014, 02:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnprasad View Post
HI . I have not used my pioneer remote for 2 years now since the only functions i use every day is change input and change volume for which I have knobs...now I have new speakers, new sub and want to do the MCACC set up...but I realize that the remote doesnt work...since this model is two years plus now....will any of the new pioneer model remotes work on this one? what is the way out please? I live in India and hence unlike people in the western world..not easy to buy it off ebay. Thx
There is a seller on eBay selling the remotes for $32 with free shipping, and they say they ship worldwide. A lot of countries are excluded but not India. That one isn't possible?
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post #4572 of 4580 Old 12-02-2014, 01:51 PM
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Of course also try everything to fix the remote. Often the problem is batteries leaking. If that's the issue you might be able to fix it with baking soda, alcohol, and a pencil eraser, and new batteries.
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post #4573 of 4580 Old 12-02-2014, 09:28 PM
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Blown Speaker.... So yesterday I used the MCACC to re-calibrate and that somehow fixed the overheating issue I was having. But today I blew (my fault) my Front Left speakers. I'm pretty sure its ruined, because it sounds like there's a bee or wasp inside the box, and I swapped it with the Back Left speaker with the same results.

Can I please get some how to replace a speaker advice? I haven't shopped for speakers in about 10 years, I know nothing about them, and I trust the advice I get here. The current speakers and SW were part of a 5.1 set, the model number on back of the blown speaker is PolkAudio RM6000BD 06447. Its black and about 3.5"deep and wide x 4.5" high. I can't even find that model when I Google.

How/where should I shop for a replacement. Do I need to by 2? 4? what type speaker is it (bookshelf? mid-range? high performance?) Wattage? Any advice would be appreciated.

I'm in no hurry because I replaced it for the time being with a larger I was using as a 6th speaker, and moved it to the back left.
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post #4574 of 4580 Old 12-03-2014, 07:16 AM
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Speakers don't usually blow unless you send a clipped signal to it. Did you have it set to +10 or something strange like that? Sometimes speakers rot around the cone and can be replaced or repaired by a professional or yourself. It sounds like this was a cheap set. My advice would be to get a decent left and right, then a center, then a sub. Use the old ones for surround. Wattage really doesn't matter, if you abuse your amp/speakers by clipping, you may damage them. What is your price range? I am continuously cycling speakers through my system. My main system is EMP (now RBH), but the 1020 is a hybrid of Haffler, Kef and Pioneer.
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post #4575 of 4580 Old 12-03-2014, 08:40 AM
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It may be that cone rot, if the symptom is that sorta ruffling buzz that corresponds to the signal it's being sent. I don't know if I went to +10, but I did sorta blast a stereo signal right before I noticed the issue.

I don't think we'd benefit much from a speaker upgrade, since the under-the-carpet wiring was laid 10 years ago and probably needs a gauge upgrade. We've also been very pleased with the 1020k and our current speakers. When I hear other peoples surround systems, I'm always more impressed by ours!

My budget? Ideally less than $90, ideally just fixing or replacing that Polk with something compatible with the other 3 speakers that are like that one. I don't do soldering or anything like that, and if it's worth it, I'd investigate someone fixing it. I'm in the Cincinnati area if there's a chain or someplace that does that.
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post #4576 of 4580 Old 12-03-2014, 09:22 AM
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This is the place I've used. They are local to me and I've had them do it for me, but a friend did his own. If you can get the grill off, you can find out the problem. You may be better off just replacing the blown parts.

https://www.newfoam.com/

Trust me, you have VERY small speakers. Getting big speakers will make a huge difference, it's about moving air. There are always deals out there.

Good luck!
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post #4577 of 4580 Old 12-03-2014, 10:27 AM
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Thanks! I may have a friend as well who can do it. In the meantime I replaced it with a larger center speaker that I got at a flea market awhile back. It was too loud so I reran the MCACC, and now it seems pretty good. I haven't tested with an action movie yet. I wonder if using this center speaker as a RL is an acoustical no no.

Thanks for all your advice!
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post #4578 of 4580 Old 12-04-2014, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyJack View Post
All is working fine, except than sometimes, with doing nothing, I have an unexpected factory reset, and I loose all my configuration
So nobody has this problem?

And is there a way to save (and restore) part or all of the configuration?
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post #4579 of 4580 Old Yesterday, 07:04 AM
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Parts

I can't seem to get my 1020 working. Trust me I tried everything with no luck. So if anyone needs a remote or replacement mic send me a PM. I dropped in my old Panasonic SA-XR55 so life is good.
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post #4580 of 4580 Unread Today, 10:49 AM
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electronic hacks

Has anyone internally modified a 1020k to break into the power amp feeds from the preamps to create the equivalent of a "tape loop"? I occasionally see one of these receivers on craigslist for a price which would make it a good experimental subject.
I'm building my own line source speakers, and will use an electronic crossover (which I have designed using LTspice and am currently breadboarding) with biamping. I could just use external power amps with the preamp outputs, but that seems like a waste. My crossover design dynamically adapts, which is not achievable in passive crossovers.
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