How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 872 Old 04-23-2011, 01:46 PM
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Awesome, changed all the 100uF caps on my 606 daughterboard today and voila snycs in a second and osd working flawlessly.

Salvaged the caps from an old sony receiver so zero cost. Thanks to CZ_The_Day, you are a diamond
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post #272 of 872 Old 04-26-2011, 12:31 PM
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Hello Guys,

I sucessfully (well, mostly) repaired my receiver (606) thanks to you all.

However, the osd is still gone and I have no image (i do have sound) via Composite (VCR/DVR).

Probably I messed up with one of the capacitors. Does anybody know which capacitor must i replace (or check) ?

Thank you all !
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post #273 of 872 Old 05-04-2011, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gedl View Post

Hello Guys,

I sucessfully (well, mostly) repaired my receiver (606) thanks to you all.

However, the osd is still gone and I have no image (i do have sound) via Composite (VCR/DVR).

Probably I messed up with one of the capacitors. Does anybody know which capacitor must i replace (or check) ?

Thank you all !

Somewhere back in this thread (I don't remember which page; but it's in the first three), there is a discussion of which ones to replace. Also, you can watch THIS YOUTUBE VIDEO by Ed on repairing the 606. He shows the location of the 5 capacitors that must be replaced, and he shows how to solder the new capacitors, etc.

I received my capacitors from Mouser yesterday and soldered the 5 new ones last night. As of this writing, everything is running smoothly. My HDMIs had never entirely died; but they were slow to come on board unless I warmed up the receiver. Now they are practically instantaneous right after I turn on the unit.

I did not remove the daughterboard from the unit. I could not figure out that power cable thingie; so I just left it connected and flipped it over as needed. After I finished with the soldering, I powered up the unit to see if it would spark or catch fire or explode. Once that did not happen, I began the arduous task of reconnecting all my stuff.

Not only is the handshake (on all 4 HDMIs) happening within about a second; but now my OSD works flawlessly. I had gotten to where I had to turn the unit off and back on to get the OSD to appear. I even used to have to do that when the HDMIs popped on because the image was often corrupted. All is clear now. I will probably buy one of those FAN CONTROLLERS that someone discovered earlier in the thread along with a cooling fan to help keep the unit cool.

CZ_the_DAY is indeed THE MAN for helping us out with this. However, this TXSR606 is my second and last Onkyo receiver purchase.
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post #274 of 872 Old 05-04-2011, 06:57 AM
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Hello,

I'm aware that it must be one of that four capacitors, but since my procedure was partially successful it must mean that some of those 4 are alright and some are not. I'm just wondering, since the symptom is that OSD does not work, which of those 4 I must solder again.

Thank you again.
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post #275 of 872 Old 05-04-2011, 07:55 AM
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I did 5 caps-one on one side and 4 on the other.
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post #276 of 872 Old 05-04-2011, 08:13 AM
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I replaced all 100uF. What I'm asking is what is the one capacitor that is responsible for OSD (if any).
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post #277 of 872 Old 05-04-2011, 07:09 PM
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OOC, does anyone know a fix for the Onkyo 905 and 906... I have both of them and both are having issues...

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #278 of 872 Old 05-05-2011, 06:37 AM
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OK - I did the repair of the board on my 606 by replacing all of the 100uf 4v caps (front & back) with the new 100uf 10v caps that I purchased from digikey.com - see parts below. I made sure to align the blue side with the side the black was from the originals for polarity.

I did a clear/reset on the receiver then hooked the HDMI out to the plasma. I hooked a source to the DVD hdmi input port got a no signal on the plasma. I tried OSD and got a green screen on the plasma. All hdmi ports that do not have a source connected give a green screen on the plasma if selected. The hdmi that was connected and selected I just gets a no signal on the plasma.

I figured I would also try the adding of the 4x 1uf 50v to the voltage regulators as seen in the pics from poster "ghettosuperstar" (1 front & 3 back).

Capacitor Part No.
1uf 50v 445-2865-ND
100uf 10v 565-3047-ND


Does anyone know of anything else I can try to fix my board?

Thanks!
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post #279 of 872 Old 05-05-2011, 07:10 AM
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Many thanks to all of you involved in compiling this thread. I had mulled around doing this for a couple months and finally bit the bullet last night.

I replaced the 4 caps as directed by the supplied images in my Onkyo SR606. My receiver still worked but it took up to an hour to get components like my PS3 to handshake. I am very happy to report all of my HDMI ports are working now and handshaking occurs quickly. It took about an hour total. I spent $20 - including the caps, solder and iron.

I would like to contribute the following: The white plastic connector with the black ribbon cable (5 wires) going into it does not come apart or detach. You pull the black cable directly out while holding the plastic piece down. I spent a good 20 minutes trying to carefully pop this off - coming from a computer background I thought it was 2 pieces that connected to each other (sort of like the 3 white connections that go into what appears to be the audio board). This is what I had the most trouble with out of the whole ordeal.

Thank you again!
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post #280 of 872 Old 05-11-2011, 11:35 AM
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Replaced 5 capacitors with Radio Shack 100uf 35v. All HDMIs back but no OSD. What should I do next?
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post #281 of 872 Old 05-11-2011, 07:44 PM
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Any chance this fix would work for my Onkyo 876?? My HDMI ports all have no signal and its not making that clicking sound when switching HDMI outputs. I don't have sound or picture. I am able to get the OSD and my components from my wii work. I did a factory reset but that didn't do anything. Just wondering if this is similar to the 576 and 606. Thanks
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post #282 of 872 Old 05-12-2011, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freshane View Post
Any chance this fix would work for my Onkyo 876?? My HDMI ports all have no signal and its not making that clicking sound when switching HDMI outputs. I don't have sound or picture. I am able to get the OSD and my components from my wii work. I did a factory reset but that didn't do anything. Just wondering if this is similar to the 576 and 606. Thanks
the 876/906 uses the HQV video processor... the HDMI board is a LOT more complex and expensive compared to the other models. I have asked if anyone has done any mods to see if they got it working but no response/luck.... guess it's because not many of the 876/906s were sold compared to the cheaper models...

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #283 of 872 Old 05-14-2011, 08:37 AM
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On my Onkyo HT-R667, I removed the 5 100uF 4v capacitors according to Ed's video on Youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gj0x5S9ez5U

Before, I had to wait five minutes for it to warm up before it displayed any HDMI device.

After replacing the five capacitors with 100uF 35v ones from Radioshack, everything worked flawlessly for about 24 hours.

Then, the OSD setup screen was no longer working so I removed the HDMI board and notice one pin had come off so I resoldered it. While putting the HDMI board back in, the white, thin ribbon was slightly scratched along its top pins but I'm not sure if it's the cause of my current problem.

Unlike some people on the forums, the video, audio, and OSD screens all work. The only problem is that when in Windows 7, the 7.1 speakers are really broken. Front left plays on the rear, center seems to play on two of the back, and front right also plays on the back. Going into the OSD to Speaker Setup -> Level Calibration, it's exactly as it should be.

Selecting "Properties" on my audio device (NVIDIA HDMI Out), going to Advance and changing the default format to 24bit and other Hz seems to affect and occasionally fix it temporarily, but then it comes right back to being backwards and broken.

I could make a video showing the problem, but I really don't think it's Windows. I'm not sure if it's the capacitors or the ribbon or what. I rechecked the capacitors and soldering and it's fine.

I have an Xbox 360 and a PS3 connected to the other HDMI ports, but there's no 5.1 or 7.1 sound tests I could use on them to see if it's the computer, the HDMI port, or the HDMI card in the Onkyo.

It also seems that if in Windows 7 you select 24-bit and 192,000 Hz, you can no longer use All Channel Stereo for Stereo source media files. It also causes the receiver to click annoyingly when playing media, so I may just leave it on 16-bit at 48000 Hz. But that's another topic.

I just switched my PC from HDMI1 to HDMI3 and ran the 7.1 surround speaker test and it worked fine. I'm not sure if it's going to last, though, because since installing the capacitors, I've noticed it becoming extremely hot - too hot to touch, really, just above the HDMI card on the top right.

If it's the HDMI port that's screwed up, would you recommend I replace the remaining capacitors as some others have done? Has anyone else had issues in Windows, HDMI1 (DVD), or a device's audio or video AFTER your DIY fix?

I'm tossing and turning in bed knowing that my receiver isn't working perfectly. Any help would be appreciated, and thanks to everyone who posted their results and the tutorials for this! Many say it's working perfectly but try checking 5.1 and 7.1 surround outputs of any of your HDMI devices, not just in the OSD, to make sure it's really working 100%!

Update 10:46am:

I just confirmed that HDMI1 and HDMI2's audio is bungled. Changing only the HDMI cable to a different port, I was able to use the speaker setup in Windows to determine that the L, C, and R are played out of the wrong speakers regardless of what setting of music it's on (TV Logic, Neo6, All Chan Stereo). HDMI3 and HDMI4 worked fine.

Is the board blown? Replace the remaining 4 or 5 100uF capacitors? I didn't notice anyone else having this exact issue in any previous post.

Update 2:00pm

Rolling back my NVIDIA HDMI drivers to 1.0.0.59 dated 8/21/2009 seemed to fix everything. Audio works correctly in HDMI1 including DTS, Dolby Digital etc and the sound is coming out of the channels.

I'm going to assume I'm done repairing my HT-R667 thanks to everyone here and on the highdef forums.

Update 5/20/11:

I take it back, It isn't fixed. I still need help, but first please read my updated post with screenshots and video here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post20458134
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post #284 of 872 Old 05-14-2011, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ap1 View Post

Find service manual. There is a diagnostic procedure for protection triggers described there.

I have the service manual actually but cant find what you are talking about. Do you happen to know what page, or around what page it is listed on? I would love to fix this protection mode issue I have.
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post #285 of 872 Old 05-15-2011, 01:03 AM
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A friend gave me his TX-SR606 after it started having the HDMI delay. It was past warranty and he didn't feel like attempting the repair so he bought a new one (not Onkyo this time). Since I had nothing to lose, I went with the most encompassing repair described here. 10 100uf, 1 220uf, and 4 1uf across the regulators. The 100ufs and the 220uf took me all of half an hour but I couldn't do the 1uf across the regulators because I ordered the wrong part. After plugging the board back in everything worked flawlessly. I am wondering if I should bother doing the 1uf across the regulators later. I've read that it's preventative, but not sure how much of a difference it makes. Can anyone shed any light?
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post #286 of 872 Old 05-15-2011, 12:16 PM
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Hi everyone! I'm new to the forum and I have just spent the last couple of hours looking a this thread. I was experiencing the beginning of the HDMI issues as described throughout the forum and then my sound went out. However, the video is working OK now. I just removed the HDMI board and will be replacing the caps as shown by "CZ_the_DAY" and "ghettosuperstar" ....AWESOME POSTS BY THE WAY....THANK YOU!!!.....

Also, I've never done any type of soldering or work on receivers before; however, as a Mechanical Engineer, I have basic knowledge and interest in working on my own components as well as some experience working on computers, so I feel moderately comfortable doing the work. I will also be following this nice video (also found in this thread) that shows how to solder the capacitors. You tube video titled: How to fix an Onkyo receiver - TX-SR606 - By Ed (I cannot post links b/c it's my 1st post...sorry).

I will be posting my results after I replace the capacitors and hopefully it will take care of both problems -- video and audio --- Please feel free to send any tips or if you have any similar problems, especially with audio. By the way, there is no audio period. I have tried the tuner, the iPod cradle, different speakers and even the headphones independently to no avail.

I apologize in advance for the lengthy post and look forward to hearing/reading from any of you who could offer any advice. Thanks!
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post #287 of 872 Old 05-15-2011, 09:43 PM
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I'm sad to have to report that replacing all the caps as shown before did not do anything for my "no sound" issue. I knew it was a long shot, since the caps are on the HDMI card, but I had to give it a shot and I was experiencing some of the HDMI delay issues as well.
So, again, video is there through HDMI, but there is no sound at all.
Has anyone encountered this issue? or anything similar?

Thanks!
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post #288 of 872 Old 05-24-2011, 02:22 PM
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Damn, spent a solid 2 hours reading this thread. Thanks to CZ & everyone else who provided valuable advice/suggestions. Bought a 2nd hand TX-NR708 recently with dead HDMI inputs(seller advertised with this info upfront). All 7 of them including the AUX HDMI input on the front of the unit. The ports are completely dead, even after warming up, etc. Everything else works 100% & the unit is in brand new condition with the remote looking like a finger has never been laid on it.

Dead HDMI ports essentially mean no Dolby TrueHD & DTS-HD which is a serious bummer in my books.

I'm keen on attempting this fix (replacing the caps) since its extremely easy & seems worth while attempting compared to sending the unit to my local authorized repair centre who may end up performing the same fix & most likely charge an arm & a leg. However something else could be wrong (i.e. not the caps) & if i replace the caps & it does not fix the problem I will then have to send it to my local repair centre & they will then see that the unit was worked on previously & may not want to continue purely since the perception will be that the circuitry of the HDMI board has been compromised by an uncertified person i.e. me.

Anyway long story short I am on the fence about whether to proceed with the fix or leave as is & pay a fee to have the local "experts" check it out first & then provide a diagnosis/repair. I am however leaning towards replacing the caps since its so darn simple (have fair amount of experience working with circuit boards) & CHEAP. Whats placing doubt in my mind is the fact that the HDMI board of the TX-NR708 may be a lot different to the models mentioned in this thread.

Is there anyone who could perhaps guide me & who may know a little more about the HDMI board of the TX-NR708?

Way I see it is (& it is killing me): owning this more-than-decent receiver (in my humble opinion) with dead HDMI ports is like owning a Porsche that can only reach 4th gear & somehow cant get to 5th (or 6th in some cases). Seriously sucks!
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post #289 of 872 Old 05-24-2011, 08:54 PM
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Encnountered signs of this problem early but infrequently and always thought it was my mediaplayer as it was the only device that showed the symptoms. TV was 1080i, Xbox360 was component and PS3 was hardly used so I did not draw the right conclusion it being the receiver (SR606)
I have changed to several mediaplayers since and after all of them stopped working at 1080p and a new PS3 having the same problem I started digging and found this website. Since I bought mine from Amazon.com but moved it to Canada where I live getting it repaired by Onkyo was not a choice. I since picked up a new Yamaha receiver so I was not in a hurry to rush the repair of this but finally had friends at work help me replace all 100uF and add the 1uF to all the regulators. Had to also replace a 22uF as it broke during the removal. Glad I read about how to remove the power cord as there was no way I would have figured it out myself.
I installed it just now but have not tested it yet but wanted to show the awesome work my friends have done.


Hope it will work as I will test it tomorrow. Thanks again to all that provided all the word and advise in this and all the other threads. hope it works
BTW almost all my regulators are of the part# 48... so I had them all but one caped
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post #290 of 872 Old 05-26-2011, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synx View Post
While on, press and hold the display button then hit the off/standby button. You'll get a quick display before it goes out cycle with the tone > button or i think its tone + on mine, you will a few different firmware version numbers on the 3rd press you should get VD then numbers. If its ???????? you VD is corrupt and from what i can tell are SOL.
We have just started having this problem with our 606 and as my frustration level mounts I become more willing to try this fix. However I did as Synx suggested and I do get the ?????? for VD numbers. Do we know for sure that this means I am "SOL"? Have most posters checked the VD before changing out the caps? Any response would be greatly appreciated.
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post #291 of 872 Old 05-29-2011, 03:17 PM
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After having HDMI sync/warm up issues for a few months I stumbled across this solution back in February and after replacing 5 of the 100uf caps with 100uf/35v caps I solved the sync/warm up issues.

This weekend we upgraded our TV and I found that my 606 still wasn't passing 1080p content, and I reaaaaally wanted to enjoy some 1080p/24fps action so I went back in and replaced the other 3 100uf caps.

Lo and behold, everything works perfectly now. Thanks so much to everyone who helped with this solution.
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post #292 of 872 Old 05-29-2011, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by puddinck View Post

We have just started having this problem with our 606 and as my frustration level mounts I become more willing to try this fix. However I did as Synx suggested and I do get the ?????? for VD numbers. Do we know for sure that this means I am "SOL"? Have most posters checked the VD before changing out the caps? Any response would be greatly appreciated.

I'd say if you have any experience with soldering (I have very little) to at least try replacing the caps. It's a quick, inexpensive fix if that is the problem.
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post #293 of 872 Old 06-01-2011, 11:41 AM
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Thank you cz and every one else that has contributed. had a 606 unit that needed -30 min warmup until 1080p would work. Replaced the 4+1 caps with radial 100uF 16V 105 deg celcius. Now it syncs in < 5 sec!!!
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post #294 of 872 Old 06-02-2011, 10:26 PM
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AJ, thank you so much for responding to my question. It seems that I entered this conversation a little too late, not much activity any more. I'm not quite ready to change the caps as our 606 is still working OK but I can tell what the future holds and will be prepared. After reading so many success stories I will have fewer qualms about messing with the mysterious (to me!) inner workings of my av receiver. I'm so glad that CZ put this out there.
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post #295 of 872 Old 06-07-2011, 09:57 PM
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I just had my Onkyo TX-NR906 repaired... they replaced 16 caps... unfortunately, the caps is the same small caps as the original... Whether they are 85 or 105 degrees, I don't know... I thought they would use electrolytes but nope... So I am unable to tell you which caps were replaced... the tech said it takes 2.5 hours to repair a HDMI board.

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #296 of 872 Old 06-12-2011, 10:18 PM
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Hey all! I just wanted to extend my thanks! I'd been having the HDMI switching issue for over a year. It started where it rarely happened, but progressed to the point where I was lucky to have any input show up. I ended up leaving my receiver on 24/7 so at least my DVR could always work...

I decided to take the plunge and do the fix. I've been researching this fix for about 10 months, but never having had modded an IC, I was hesitant. Anyways, today for some reason just felt right.

I bought RadioShack out of their 100uf radial caps, 3 x 50v and 3 x 35v. All are 85 deg C max.

When taking the receiver apart I encountered a couple mishaps. The five wire power cable got stuck in it's housing and I ripped the three inner wires when "gently" pulling the cable out. I thought I was screwed, but continued anyways. Second mishap was when removing the cap on the front of the board. I apparently didn't wiggle enough and wasn't patient enough... I tore the IC printing surface, completely removing the mounting soldering point... Again, I thought I was so screwed.

Way earlier in this thread there's a list of four caps (C8072, C8096, C8602, and C8609) that Onkyo replaced to fix this issue. I replaced the three that are on the rear side with the 50v caps. Again, for the front cap I tore the board surface and there was no solder point. What I did to fix this was put a glob of solder on there. It didn't stick for the first few tries, but eventually it did, giving me a solder point for the cap. phew! I soldered the one on the front with a 35v cap.

In order to test it out, I had to fix the power cable, so I soldered some of the leads that I had trimmed off the caps onto the ends of the wires. I wrapped the wire joints in tape and crossed my fingers!

I tried this repair out and the receiver didn't work... I was pretty sure I fixed the cable just fine, so the front cap must not have soldered correctly... Then, after a couple minutes, it worked a little! There was still a large delay in the switching. But at least multiple inputs worked this time, and I didn't break it! YAY!

I went back and replaced a couple more caps on the rear. I tried it out and it worked flawlessly, like it was brand new! Just a couple seconds from power on to audio & video on the TV. Wonderful!

I've attached pictures of the front and rear pre- and post-repair. I didn't take complete pictures of everything since I was excited to try it out... The red boxes are where I replaced with 35v caps, the blue boxes are 50v caps. Also included a picture of the broken wires.

I appreciate the help of this forum. What a great fix to such a widely-experienced issue. Thank you again!
LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #297 of 872 Old 06-17-2011, 02:10 AM
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I just happened across this thread after picking up an Integra DTR 5.9 at a thrift store for $60, very excited at the good deal. I get it home, plug it up, audio worked, but no HDMI output whatsoever. I was very excited to hear about the upscaling features of this receiver, I went ahead and replaced 4 of the 100uF capacitors, 2 of which tested bad/shorted for sure, and it worked, OSD, all the HDMI inputs, everything, instant, like new. So I hook up the Super Nintendo to a s-video input, and it appears for a second scrolling vertically up into place, then disappears, then appears about 7 seconds later, repeating the same thing, then disappears, doing this over and over. When it appeared though it looked AMAZING, and I am very very picky about how my old games look. I have tried and cried over retro consoles on an LCD TV, I keep a Sharp 32" CRT around for my old games but to not need that would be wonderful. I try every single setting related to HDMI output and scoured menus and the manual for info. Further research shows this is common and something about not being able to handle 320x240 resolution via the upscaling system, and it's apparant across the entire Onkyo range, Integra included. ALL old consoles, NES, SNES, Genesis, even Virtual Console games on the Wii, do this flashing issue, however Playstation and newer does not exhibit this symptom. So my wife gets home, and I try to show her just how good SNES looks, when it does show up, and lo and behold it STAYS ON! I have no idea how, or why, as I changed nothing from when it refused to work, but I am practically in tears how good it looks, but as soon as I start to mess with settings to adjust the audio/video delay and such on the receiver, and go back to the game screen (and I kind of predicted this was too good to be true), it goes back to flashing in and out. For the record it happened JUST after installing the cooling fan, but I did have it on for about a minute or two while getting the fan situated, before I turned on the game console, so it had time to warm up and charge capacitors. I cannot reproduce it working, no setting magically fixes it in the TV or receiver. I will try in the morning when the receiver is fully discharged and cold, but I SAW IT WORKING, SO I KNOW IT CAN HANDLE IT, THERE IS NO EXCUSE.

Long-winded post aside, my question is, do any of the capacitors specifically handle up-scaling, or low-resolution 240p upscaling? Is it possible that "all" Onkyo AVRs do this, because of the commonly failed capacitors? I figured I will try to replace every single capacitor on the HDMI board if I have to. I would like some insight, or if someone can point me where to post such a question I will do that too.

Thank you in advance if anyone knows anything about this!
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post #298 of 872 Old 06-17-2011, 07:46 PM
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Thanks to the original posters of this thread and all the folks who gathered the info for this. I just wanted to chime in and add some extra info in case there are others like me out there...

I have a TX-SR706 which was experiencing very similar issues. My receiver would take 10-30 minutes to 'warm up' enough to be able to switch to an HDMI source. I wound up just leaving it on 24/7 since it would make things easier each morning as we turned on the TV. The other issue I had was on much higher-bandwidth application (like blu-ray 1080P with DTS), I couldn't sync at all. It would just say "no signal". I could get the bluray player working at 480P and could step it up gradually (every few minutes) to 720i, 720P, 1080i... and there it would stay. If I tried to go 1080P it just wouldn't sync at all. I found this thread, changed all of the 4V 100uF caps on the HDMI daughterboard (there are 12 on the 706) and voila! Working again.

A word of advice: Be very careful twisting those old caps off of the board. On one of mine, the PCB 'track' came off the board like "barrooze" a couple posts up as well, so I had to scrape some of the PCB coating off using a knife, exposing the copper beneath, and re-soldered the new cap to the newly-exposed copper. Not something that felt good, but worked nonetheless. So, go easy. The 'legs' came off my old caps pretty easily and at that point it's probably best to use the soldering iron to apply heat to the legs and remove them properly. Ideally you'd remove them all properly with heat but it's really hard with these surface-mount capacitors.

I took some pics of the 706 daughterboard too for reference, looks slightly different than the 606...

Daughterboard from Above

4 Caps to replace on top of board - colored blue

8 Caps to replace on bottom of board - again, colored blue

There were a couple more '100uF' caps but they were 16V and since I'd purchased 10V caps I decided to leave those well alone. just the 4V ones were replaced with 10V caps and it seems to have done the trick. I must admit, I'd love to replace the remainder of the caps on the HDMI board (like, ALL of them) but I'd rather wait until it fails again than mess with something that's currently working.

Hope this helps someone with the 706 or a similar unit. I'm now able to watch 1080P content again, and no more waiting for HDMI syncing. ...although I'm still holding my breath when switching inputs, just out of habit

By the way, I ordered the caps from MCM Electronics. They had exactly what I needed, when ordering 15 of them they were 58 cents each or something... Including shipping it was less than $20 and I received them within two days of ordering them (actually the fedex guy showed up about 10 minutes after I'd removed all of the old caps - perfect timing )

Thanks again!
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post #299 of 872 Old 06-26-2011, 02:19 PM
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Thanks to CZ for the fix my onkyo-606 is now working good as new and i even managed to install a nice case fan to prevent the risk of any overheat. Before it was taking at least 30 mins to warm up most days about an hour. I was out to replace it for a pioneer elite vsx-33 I'm still going to get a new receiver but now i can save up for the SC-35 that i really want.
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post #300 of 872 Old 06-27-2011, 05:58 AM
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Thanks to CZ and all contributors.

My Onkyo 606 has been working flawlessly except for one issue - 1080i/p output from my PS3 slim. I replaced the four caps mentioned earlier in the thread and now 1080i is working well... but 1080p still has issues.

After a little googling, it appears that the 1080p issue between 606 and the PS3 slim is common.

Did anyone else here have that problem and solve it by replacing additional caps?

Upgraditis Anonymous
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