How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 12 - AVS Forum
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post #331 of 902 Old 08-30-2011, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmayhew View Post

I am having the same HDMI handshaking issues with my TX-NR906. Can anyone tell me which capacitors to replace. Is there way to test the capacitors to determine which ones need to be replaced? If I can fix this on my own I will be able to start growing my hair out again...haha!

no one really knows but from what I have been told, the 906 needs to have 16 caps replaced...

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #332 of 902 Old 09-01-2011, 08:27 AM
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i think it'll be easier to replace all caps from 22 to 220µF
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post #333 of 902 Old 09-05-2011, 05:37 PM
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AFTER REPLACING CAPACITORS RECEIVER DOES NOT POWER ON. I REPLACED CAPACITORS C8072,C8096,C8602,and C8609 . DOES THE HDMI DAUGHTER BOARD HAVE ANYTHING TO DUE WITH THERE BEING NO POWER . CAN SUM 1 PLEASE HELP ME
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post #334 of 902 Old 09-07-2011, 08:04 AM
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Woa.. awesome thread

I just found out a cool thing for those of you who soldered their daughterboard to the circuitstorms of valhalla

Im facing the same problem than all of you regarding my 576er.

720p no Problem @ all.. everythings works fine..

1080p warmup for 5-openend minutes. sometimes it works with some blue lines crissling along the screen which do disappear after a while ( you have to watch them away ) sometimes it just doesnt want to work... yeah.. who am im telling this.. you know what im talking about


So.. what ive found out.. ive talked to the onkyo support which hadtn a clue about this.. its so typical.. argh but he told me to call frisch electronics, located in .de -> Hamburg..

Here we go.. the PartN° of the HDMI board is 1b211565-1a

Search for "1b211565" on this page "http://www.calpedel.it/onklst.htm
Ordinary price 262.00 But only 64 excl VAT in Hamburg

I just registered to tell you this

Im doing now the capacitor mod.. if i do blow the board.. i can buy a new one
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post #335 of 902 Old 09-07-2011, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarbour91 View Post

AFTER REPLACING CAPACITORS RECEIVER DOES NOT POWER ON. I REPLACED CAPACITORS C8072,C8096,C8602,and C8609 . DOES THE HDMI DAUGHTER BOARD HAVE ANYTHING TO DUE WITH THERE BEING NO POWER . CAN SUM 1 PLEASE HELP ME

Power plugged in ?
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post #336 of 902 Old 09-07-2011, 08:23 AM
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Did you check the polarity of the caps before soldering ?
This one is missed often, even sometimes by knowledgable ones.
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post #337 of 902 Old 09-08-2011, 12:03 PM
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I was doing the cap mod and some of the board pulled off while removing the caps. It's not working at all now. Suggestions?
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post #338 of 902 Old 09-08-2011, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FEARDIZ View Post

I was doing the cap mod and some of the board pulled off while removing the caps. It's not working at all now. Suggestions?

You can usually solder the replacement caps directly on the ground and the output of the applicable regulator device. For example, the cap on the top of the card (C8609) can be installed across Q8654 from the wide blade (Ground, negative) to the pin 3 output (if you're looking at the card with the HDMI connectors toward the top, pin 3 of Q8654 is the one toward the top of the card, also being the pin closest to C8609). Just solder your replacement cap across these two connections on Q8654, making sure you have the polarity correct (pin 3 - output will be the positive side of the cap). If you have an ohm meter, you can verify that the cap pads connect to these points (but maybe not if you've lifted the pads). I once lifted the pad on C8609 so badly that I had to add a jumper to TP15 since the output of Q8654 was no longer connected to Q8501 like it should have been.

Hope this helps!
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post #339 of 902 Old 09-09-2011, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBacksFan5205 View Post

You can usually solder the replacement caps directly on the ground and the output of the applicable regulator device. For example, the cap on the top of the card (C8609) can be installed across Q8654 from the wide blade (Ground, negative) to the pin 3 output (if you're looking at the card with the HDMI connectors toward the top, pin 3 of Q8654 is the one toward the top of the card, also being the pin closest to C8609). Just solder your replacement cap across these two connections on Q8654, making sure you have the polarity correct (pin 3 - output will be the positive side of the cap). If you have an ohm meter, you can verify that the cap pads connect to these points (but maybe not if you've lifted the pads). I once lifted the pad on C8609 so badly that I had to add a jumper to TP15 since the output of Q8654 was no longer connected to Q8501 like it should have been.

Hope this helps!

Hi
do you have a basic schematic for the cap circuit, or just text of what connects to what? I messed up the C8602 neg. side. I'd like to test the other ones if this one doesn't work.
I might of pulled up the connector on L8601 right next to it also, how do I test that? What is L8601 anyway?

thanks, hope I can get it working
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post #340 of 902 Old 09-12-2011, 07:44 AM
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can someone help me out with this?
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post #341 of 902 Old 09-12-2011, 08:03 AM
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It sounds, as if you either applied to much force, while lifting the caps to be removed or applied to much heat over a prolonged period of time during desoldering / soldering. What size of soldering gun (pencil ?) did you use ?

You might be able to repair some board traces by either adding some small amount of solder or using fine control wire to repair. But be careful not to mess it up completely (beyond repair of the board). If nothing else helps, the board must then be replaced.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FEARDIZ View Post

I was doing the cap mod and some of the board pulled off while removing the caps. It's not working at all now. Suggestions?

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post #342 of 902 Old 09-12-2011, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gurkey View Post

It sounds, as if you either applied to much force, while lifting the caps to be removed or applied to much heat over a prolonged period of time during desoldering / soldering. What size of soldering gun (pencil ?) did you use ?

You might be able to repair some board traces by either adding some small amount of solder or using fine control wire to repair. But be careful not to mess it up completely (beyond repair of the board). If nothing else helps, the board must then be replaced.

Where does the C8602 neg. side connect to?
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post #343 of 902 Old 09-12-2011, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FEARDIZ View Post
Where does the C8602 neg. side connect to?
FEARDIZ,

Attached are p.21 and 22 from the 606 Service Manual. The size of the whole manual exceeds allowed limits. These are scanned images of the areas you need. Hope the resolution is good enough to be of use.

Cheers!

 

Onkyo TX-SR606 Service Manual Page 21.pdf 133.7001953125k . file

 

Onkyo TX-SR606 Service Manual Page 22.pdf 155.26171875k . file
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Onkyo TX-SR606 Service Manual Page 22.pdf (155.3 KB, 39 views)
File Type: pdf Onkyo TX-SR606 Service Manual Page 21.pdf (133.7 KB, 53 views)
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post #344 of 902 Old 09-12-2011, 10:48 PM
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I am having problems getting one of the white cables out of the connector on the HDMI board.....any advice for me? Thanks
LL
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post #345 of 902 Old 09-13-2011, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by apollo753 View Post

I am having problems getting one of the white cables out of the connector on the HDMI board.....any advice for me? Thanks

My cable is still in. It is the power cable
LL
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post #346 of 902 Old 09-13-2011, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apollo753 View Post

My cable is still in. It is the power cable

apollo753,

Just press down gently on the top of the connector with a flat-bladed screwdriver (close to the 5 wires, not on the outer shell part) and the tension on the wires will be released and you can then easily pull the harness out.

Hope this helps!
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post #347 of 902 Old 09-18-2011, 07:36 PM
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Thanks....I got the cable out. I replaced my caps and the HDMI is working again.
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post #348 of 902 Old 09-18-2011, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apollo753 View Post

Thanks....I got the cable out. I replaced my caps and the HDMI is working again.

CONGRATULATIONS!
Doesn't that feel good?

Cheers!
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post #349 of 902 Old 09-19-2011, 03:35 AM
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Hi all,
thanks a lot for this great thread.
It cured a big problem and greatly improved the WAF of my AV-equipment...

I only echanged the 5 electrolytic caps (100µF, 16V, 105°C) because I didn't have the 1µF at hand for the regulators.

Before the repair: Had to wait for 3-10 mins for the receiver to warm up, before I could get a picture from the mediacenter-PC

After the repair: Picture comes up immediately (1-2 secs) and switching between different HDMI sources works flawless.

But: I have no OSD (Source and Output are HDMI)

No One any idea?

Did those who have regained their OSD replace only the 5x10µF caps, all 10µF caps or even apply the 1µF Caps with the regulators?

As it seems I do not have any picture from sources other than HDMI...

Should I replace the rest of the 10µF Caps as well?
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post #350 of 902 Old 09-23-2011, 07:13 AM
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I just completed soldering the caps on and I will test it later today when I get home from work. I design PCBs and I have learned to rework stuff very well over the years. So for those of you that don't have the benefit of some experience here are some things to note....

There is no conformal coating on the board. If you are having trouble heating up the tab on the regulators to get solder to stick to it remember that you have to heat up the entire pad and whatever plane they have it tied to through thermal reliefs. Just have patience... add solder slowly but as soon as the solder melts on the tab next to your iron you need to add enough solder and then quit... you don't want to overheat any of these parts. Now that you have solder on the tab and the pad put hold the cap with tweezers and melt the solder and place the cap. The solder should melt a lot faster now because you have fresh solder and there is some flux there. Make sure you don't dwell on anything to long or you might damage parts.

Some of the issues people are having afterword (after the obvious cap polarity issue) is flux. Most solder has flux in it and flux is conductive at different temperatures. Look for solder with water soluble flux. Clean your solder area with water and q-tips/chemical brush. MAKE SURE YOU DRY it afterward or you might let the magic smoke out.

Twisting the caps for removal worked well... just make sure you twist and DO NOT PULL UP. Pads on PCBs can be a pain to try to solder wires in their place and on caps it is almost impossible. Make sure you remove the leftovers of the lead that is soldered to the pad and add fresh solder with good clean flux in it. If you heat up the pad you will need to lower the cap lead into the solder but make sure you heat the lead on the cap as well or the solder bond won't be good... you might have solder issues later (more temp related stuff)

I will post the results once I test it...
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post #351 of 902 Old 09-23-2011, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarX2Binks View Post

No One any idea?

Did those who have regained their OSD replace only the 5x10µF caps, all 10µF caps or even apply the 1µF Caps with the regulators?

As it seems I do not have any picture from sources other than HDMI...

Should I replace the rest of the 10µF Caps as well?

I am having similiar issues except all my HDMI ports are fine. I can no longer pass through composite pic or sound from my vcr or Wii and my OSD will work sometimes and not others. Do not want to replace the caps as long as HDMI is still working unless I can be sure it would fix the other issues.
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post #352 of 902 Old 09-23-2011, 12:52 PM
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The audio works great but I am still not getting any video output on the HDMI. Any idea what cap/regulator ties to the output? Anything else I can check? Anyone have any ideas?
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post #353 of 902 Old 09-26-2011, 11:29 AM
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Just wanted to comment and say I fixed my 5-10 minute HDMI power up for my SR606 by replacing the 4 capacitors mentioned (C8072, C8096, C8602, C8609.) I used the 10v 105c rated ones mentioned on the first page.

Thanks for the guide and help! $12 for capacitors and an hour of work. Happy day
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post #354 of 902 Old 09-30-2011, 07:02 PM
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I attempted this fix, but after re-installing the HDMI Board the unit keeps making a clicking sound and will not power on. Is my unit dead? Is there anything I can do to revive it? If it is indeed dead is there any comparable receiver that I can get to replace it?
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post #355 of 902 Old 09-30-2011, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danmanca View Post

I attempted this fix, but after re-installing the HDMI Board the unit keeps making a clicking sound and will not power on. Is my unit dead? Is there anything I can do to revive it? If it is indeed dead is there any comparable receiver that I can get to replace it?

Did you have the unit plugged in when you disconnected (or reconnected) the 5-wire black cable from/to the white connector on the HDMI card? If so, you could have shorted out the 12V lines on the HDMI card. Check the hidden fuze under the small board on the rear side of the main transformer. You really can't see this fuze without a mirror. I had a receiver that was doing exactly what you describe and replacing this fuze brought it back to life. If the fuze is blown and it pops again, check that you have the 5-wire cable inserted correctly and there are no shorts in the 5 individual wires. Look at the marking on the PWB right next to the connector. It tells you the sequence of the 5 wires (As I recall, it's: GND, 12V, GND, 12V, GND).

I don't believe that your unit is dead. What you experienced is one of the Protect Modes.
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post #356 of 902 Old 09-30-2011, 08:43 PM
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Any chance of a picture of where the fuse is on this or what I am looking for to replace? How can I remove the fuse?
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post #357 of 902 Old 09-30-2011, 09:00 PM
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I believe I found them. Are these the fuses that need to be replaced?
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post #358 of 902 Old 09-30-2011, 10:02 PM
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I found the fuse, but I broke the power cable like an idiot and that is why it is no longer working. One of the leads, the last ground one is disconnected from the cord. Is it possible to replace the power cable or am I out of luck? (the power cord to the HDMI Board) If I am out of luck is there a comparable receiver I can get as a replacement?
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post #359 of 902 Old 10-03-2011, 04:34 AM
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I did the same thing.... 3 of my power ribbon pins are ripped. Anyone know where I can get a replacement?


Edit...
NM I just realized I can create a new power ribbon out of 22gauge wire. I just need to find some fuse replacements and coffee.
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post #360 of 902 Old 10-03-2011, 03:32 PM
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"I believe I found them. Are these the fuses that need to be replaced?"

The fuse I referred to is specific to the 12V lines going to the HDMI card.
I will attach pics with annotations. And, no, neither of the white ones in your pic are what I meant. See pdf file pics.

There's usually enough extra length (barely) in the 5-wire cable to cut them all even, strip each of the 5 and maybe solder tin them. Then "dress" them so that they match up with each of the 5 holes in the connector and re-insert them all together at the same time. Pull up lightly to check that the connector is grabbing them.

I mentioned in an earlier post that the way to get the connector to release tension on the 5-wire cable is to press down on the connector near where the wires insert into the connector and this releases the tension. Then pull up gently and the wires should come right out without damage.

Here are the pics:

 

Onkyo 606 Hidden Fuse.pdf 168.92578125k . file

 

Onkyo 606 Layout.pdf 142.5078125k . file
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File Type: pdf Onkyo 606 Layout.pdf (142.5 KB, 60 views)
File Type: pdf Onkyo 606 Hidden Fuse.pdf (168.9 KB, 72 views)
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