How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 14 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #391 of 857 Old 10-17-2011, 10:02 AM
Member
 
ericvq's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by EvlAsh View Post

The cap that they used was 100 microfarads 16v




Thanks so much! Great pics. Will give it a try once my OSD completely craps out.
ericvq is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #392 of 857 Old 10-18-2011, 09:39 AM
Newbie
 
Makrel Johnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Makrel Johnson View Post

UPDATE: I cleaned and re-soldered (re-heated) all my joints and this time the good picture lasted for hours. 30 min into playing the PS3 I lost the quality and I'm back to Blue/Magenta screen. At this point I'm going to assume it's heat and treat as such. I have a fan all ready to mount and piggy back off the 5 pin HDMI board power plug, just need to do so.

-Makrel

Update to Update: Seemed to be a PS3 Deep Color Bug. I disabled it and have had no issues. I never got OSD back but then I really hardly go into the setup.

I have another dozen caps coming to replace the last 2 I harvested from a motherboard then I'll call it 'repaired'. I'm going to go back and scour the thread for OSD info and see if I missed anything. On the bright side, this 'allowed' me to get a nice Aoyue 937+ station for being on a circuit board repair kick... beat the heck out of my old Shack Pencil and trying to use my 140 watt Weller gun

Thanks Again to Everyone providing info on getting this fixed!
Makrel Johnson is offline  
post #393 of 857 Old 10-18-2011, 11:38 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
wilsonsoohoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 521
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Makrel Johnson View Post

Update to Update: Seemed to be a PS3 Deep Color Bug. I disabled it and have had no issues. I never got OSD back but then I really hardly go into the setup.

I have another dozen caps coming to replace the last 2 I harvested from a motherboard then I'll call it 'repaired'. I'm going to go back and scour the thread for OSD info and see if I missed anything. On the bright side, this 'allowed' me to get a nice Aoyue 937+ station for being on a circuit board repair kick... beat the heck out of my old Shack Pencil and trying to use my 140 watt Weller gun

Thanks Again to Everyone providing info on getting this fixed!

Makrel,

If you ever go into your receiver again, check the cap on the underside of the board. What I found is that there is a cable pushing up from below that partially dislodged my cap the first time I replaced the board after soldering the caps in. I wound up bending the cap more flat, with respect to the board, and doing a better job of soldering. I don't know if that will fix the OSD issue, but it's worth checking.
wilsonsoohoo is offline  
post #394 of 857 Old 10-20-2011, 12:40 PM
Newbie
 
DoBoY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just some extra info for you guys, I have been having the same issue , except that my warranty expired about 10 months ago, before trying to fix it myself i called in to onkyo and they told me to fax them the receipt and contact info and that they would send me an authorization number to get it fixed by a service location in my area.

Still trying to get a copy of my Bill but seems all will work out. So try giving them a call first to see what they say.
DoBoY is offline  
post #395 of 857 Old 10-21-2011, 10:01 AM
Senior Member
 
nlpearman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 438
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Makrel Johnson View Post

Update to Update: Seemed to be a PS3 Deep Color Bug. I disabled it and have had no issues. I never got OSD back but then I really hardly go into the setup.

I have another dozen caps coming to replace the last 2 I harvested from a motherboard then I'll call it 'repaired'. I'm going to go back and scour the thread for OSD info and see if I missed anything. On the bright side, this 'allowed' me to get a nice Aoyue 937+ station for being on a circuit board repair kick... beat the heck out of my old Shack Pencil and trying to use my 140 watt Weller gun

Thanks Again to Everyone providing info on getting this fixed!

Makrel - are you getting 1080p out of your PS3?

Upgraditis Anonymous
nlpearman is offline  
post #396 of 857 Old 10-22-2011, 05:07 AM
Newbie
 
karel_007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have 606 and xbox connected via HDMI. After i have replaced all 100uF caps, installed 1uF caps to regulators i have fixed "no osd/picture" issue, but i have strong blue saturation on tv. Didn't found in this thread if someone from you have faced this problem too and what can be solution for it?
LL
karel_007 is offline  
post #397 of 857 Old 10-22-2011, 12:59 PM
Newbie
 
Makrel Johnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
PS3 @ 1080P? I do believe so but can't be sure. The 606 is set for pass through and the PS3 is on the Aux HDMI input. It looks pretty sharp and smooth. I guess it could be 1080i though.

I just pulled the board and re-soldered all the caps again and still no OSD. Going to go back through and see if I missed anything. maybe I got a bum cap in there somewhere. The caps are Digi-Key 565-3047-ND (mfr:APSA100ELL101MFA5G)

Here's 2 images of my handiwork... notice the 'worn' look of the 220's 8076,8683 and271. Might hit those up next.



Makrel Johnson is offline  
post #398 of 857 Old 10-22-2011, 01:04 PM
Newbie
 
Makrel Johnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
karel_007 - I had that result and thought I screwed up a solder joint.

It only occurred when I used the PS3 after 15 minutes of up time - never happened on Satellite input or DVD. I turned off Deep Color on the PS3 and it hasn't happened since and it's been burning in for maybe 20 hours.

Go to Settings > Display Settings > Deep Color/Colour Output (HDMI) and switch that puppy off. That oughta do it.
Makrel Johnson is offline  
post #399 of 857 Old 10-24-2011, 04:18 AM
Newbie
 
karel_007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Makrel Johnson View Post

karel_007 - I had that result and thought I screwed up a solder joint.

It only occurred when I used the PS3 after 15 minutes of up time - never happened on Satellite input or DVD. I turned off Deep Color on the PS3 and it hasn't happened since and it's been burning in for maybe 20 hours.

Go to Settings > Display Settings > Deep Color/Colour Output (HDMI) and switch that puppy off. That oughta do it.

I have tried to resolder it for 3times and still same result. Going to buy same parts again and do it for 4time.
About PS3: I have xbox, but anyway same blue saturation on all inputs which i tried(pc-hdmi, phone-cinch)
karel_007 is offline  
post #400 of 857 Old 10-24-2011, 06:12 PM
Senior Member
 
EvlAsh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 225
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Makrel Johnson View Post

PS3 @ 1080P? I do believe so but can't be sure. The 606 is set for pass through and the PS3 is on the Aux HDMI input. It looks pretty sharp and smooth. I guess it could be 1080i though.

I just pulled the board and re-soldered all the caps again and still no OSD. Going to go back through and see if I missed anything. maybe I got a bum cap in there somewhere. The caps are Digi-Key 565-3047-ND (mfr:APSA100ELL101MFA5G)

Here's 2 images of my handiwork... notice the 'worn' look of the 220's 8076,8683 and271. Might hit those up next.


Makrel,

Check out my last post (#389) on the previous page -- maybe it might help. Anyway, that was done by the service center that I took my 606 to. They were supposed to fix the HDMI issue, but only fixed the OSD and called it a day. I eventually ended up doing the repair my self.
EvlAsh is offline  
post #401 of 857 Old 10-28-2011, 08:26 AM
Newbie
 
Makrel Johnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
EvilAsh - I put one of my aluminum caps like the shop did and I'm still w/o Component and OSD. (And sheesh they use much flux?) Is that Nichicon non-polar? I can't tell from the pics. Maybe I have mine reversed (it's polar) or maybe I need one like you've shown us.

I'll see if I can snap a new pic this weekend. Maybe I'll hit up radio shack at work and see if I can get a 100. I used to have these things all over when I was working in custom car audio. They were like sawdust, everywhere. Now they're scarce when I really need them
Makrel Johnson is offline  
post #402 of 857 Old 10-30-2011, 10:22 AM
Newbie
 
Scottie2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon S View Post

the 876/906 uses the HQV video processor... the HDMI board is a LOT more complex and expensive compared to the other models. I have asked if anyone has done any mods to see if they got it working but no response/luck.... guess it's because not many of the 876/906s were sold compared to the cheaper models...

After doing tons of research, I just managed to SUCCESSFULLY repair my TX-SR876 HDMI issues by applying the method and techniques discussed in this thread. I learned of the success people had repairing the 606 by replacing the 100uf caps, which appeared to be identical to the ones utilized on the 876 board. However, I could not find an example where someone had actually tried it on their 876. I figured I had nothing to lose by trying, since the HDMI inputs were all but useless. I had to wait 30 minutes before the receiver would recognize an HDMI signal. Most of the time i simply received a "NO SIGNAL" message.

There are 13 of the same 100uf 4V caps on the 876 HDMI board. 5 on the top and 8 on the bottom side.





I replaced each of the 100uf 4V capacitors with high-temp 100uF 16V caps I purchased from parts express.





After reinstalling the board and crossing my fingers, low and behold, SUCCESS! HDMI sync and switching works just like the day I bought the receiver. SO happy.
rtv likes this.
Scottie2 is offline  
post #403 of 857 Old 11-02-2011, 02:19 PM
Newbie
 
ericmx6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just completed by fix and everything is working well again. The first time I put things together though it did not work. After some trouble shooting I found that one of the ground pins from the 5 wire plug had come loose. I re-soldered it and all was well. Something to look for if you are still having issues.
ericmx6 is offline  
post #404 of 857 Old 11-07-2011, 06:48 AM
Newbie
 
leshric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Getting ready to do this repair and I noticed that some people mention replacing a single 220uf (or is it a 22uf?) cap in addition to the 100uf's. Which cap are they talking about? Is this necessary or is it the consensus that replacing the 100uf's and adding the 1uf's to the regulators is sufficient?

Thanks!
leshric is offline  
post #405 of 857 Old 11-07-2011, 07:24 PM
Senior Member
 
eaayoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 407
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottie2 View Post

After doing tons of research, I just managed to SUCCESSFULLY repair my TX-SR876 HDMI issues by applying the method and techniques discussed in this thread.

After reinstalling the board and crossing my fingers, low and behold, SUCCESS! HDMI sync and switching works just like the day I bought the receiver. SO happy.

Scottie 2 thanks for your post..., my 876 is still running without problems but I'm watching this thread closely. I only expect the worst with this receiver. I've been lucky so far.
eaayoung is online now  
post #406 of 857 Old 11-08-2011, 01:02 AM
AVS Special Member
 
gurkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,748
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 22
I would check all electrolytic caps with a temperature rating of 85°C, whcih seems to be insufficient on the HDMI board.

Quote:
Originally Posted by leshric View Post

Getting ready to do this repair and I noticed that some people mention replacing a single 220uf (or is it a 22uf?) cap in addition to the 100uf's. Which cap are they talking about? Is this necessary or is it the consensus that replacing the 100uf's and adding the 1uf's to the regulators is sufficient?

Thanks!

gurkey is offline  
post #407 of 857 Old 11-09-2011, 04:23 PM
Newbie
 
DoBoY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quick update, brought my TX-SR606 to repair shop and onkyo replaced HDMI board completely with a new one (1B211573-1A1, GENESIS chip on it). and i was 8 months Past warranty expiration.

Works Flawless now. For how long? I dunno
DoBoY is offline  
post #408 of 857 Old 11-09-2011, 04:45 PM
Member
 
DBacksFan5205's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 38
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
DoBoY,

Wow! That's a new one. Any cost to you? I see where these cards cost about $230! Sounds like you got a great deal. Did the repair shop charge you any labor? Did the replacement card come with any sort of warranty? How could your receiver be only 8 months out of warranty? When did you buy it?

Curious minds would like to know . . .
DBacksFan5205 is offline  
post #409 of 857 Old 11-09-2011, 06:47 PM
Newbie
 
DoBoY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DBacksFan5205 View Post

DoBoY,

Wow! That's a new one. Any cost to you? I see where these cards cost about $230! Sounds like you got a great deal. Did the repair shop charge you any labor? Did the replacement card come with any sort of warranty? How could your receiver be only 8 months out of warranty? When did you buy it?

Curious minds would like to know . . .

Absolutely no cost to me, no labour either, all paid for by onkyo. I bought it in march 2009. All onkyo wanted was proof of purchase from an authorized shop and I was good to go, all I sent them was an email with an invoice # from an on line Shop.

No warranty that I know of but that might have been asking a little much Either way i will prob add a cooling fan on mine to make sure i can stretch out the life of this one. I do have a wide open area around the receiver but adding the fan can't hurt.

Im pretty pleased with Onkyo's support on this issue. Still it was a faulty product.
DoBoY is offline  
post #410 of 857 Old 11-11-2011, 08:56 AM
Newbie
 
cood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have a 706 and the HDMI inputs were not working at all... I replaced all 12 caps and like magic it is working great! Huge thanks to CZ_the_DAY and everyone else for all the great info!

I have one problem though... I broke the power connector. You know the white plastic piece that goes over the 5 metal clips and has a top piece with 5 small holes in it for the five small wires, the one in CZs first picture. Well I wasn't sure how it came off (should have read more) and I broke one of the sides of the top connecter piece, so I can't get the wires to securely stay down against the clips now.

Thinking I could just use some electrical tape and tape it down. Or anyone know where I can order another one of these plastic connecter pieces? Or I could get a bit extreme and solder the power wires to the metal connecters.

Any ideas or recommendations?

Thanks again everyone for all the great information and help!
cood is offline  
post #411 of 857 Old 11-11-2011, 09:03 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Burnerbum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Troy/Caseville, MI
Posts: 1,110
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by cood View Post

I have a 706 and the HDMI inputs were not working at all... I replaced all 12 caps and like magic it is working great! Huge thanks to CZ_the_DAY and everyone else for all the great info!

I have one problem though... I broke the power connector. You know the white plastic piece that goes over the 5 metal clips and has a top piece with 5 small holes in it for the five small wires, the one in CZs first picture. Well I wasn't sure how it came off (should have read more) and I broke one of the sides of the top connecter piece, so I can't get the wires to securely stay down against the clips now.

Thinking I could just use some electrical tape and tape it down. Or anyone know where I can order another one of these plastic connecter pieces? Or I could get a bit extreme and solder the power wires to the metal connecters.

Any ideas or recommendations?

Thanks again everyone for all the great information and help!

Not exactly what it looks like since I haven't done mine, but I've fixed other things similar with a hot melt glue gun. Could you put the connector in place and then glue it with the hot melt?
Burnerbum is offline  
post #412 of 857 Old 11-11-2011, 02:39 PM
Newbie
 
leshric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by igo4bmx View Post

UPDATE
got it working perfectly!
if you have problems where the receiver keeps trying to reconnect to a device you HAVE to replace the left most capacitor in this pic

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris404 View Post

SUCCESS!! YAY!!

HDMI handshaking works perfectly on my HT-R960, no more waiting for the receiver to warm up (mine was totally dead btw)

OSD also works now. Switching works great - LG BD390 BD Player, Apple TV 2G, ASRock ION330 HTPC

Here is a stupid mistake I made: The initial 100uf 4 cap replacement may have fixed my issues since I did not realize the HDMI-out cable into the TV was loose. I guess you live and learn

This what I ended up doing after the initial 4 cap replacement didn't seem to work:

- Replaced all 100uf caps (10 caps: 8 on the back, 2 on the front)
- Added 5 x 1uf 50v caps across the regulators (4 on the back, 1 on the front)
- Replaced 1 x 220uf 16v (back, far left)

Thanks a lot CZ, you saved me atleast $1200 I almost ordered the 3311CI

Kris

Quote:
Originally Posted by leshric View Post

Getting ready to do this repair and I noticed that some people mention replacing a single 220uf (or is it a 22uf?) cap in addition to the 100uf's. Which cap are they talking about? Is this necessary or is it the consensus that replacing the 100uf's and adding the 1uf's to the regulators is sufficient?

Thanks!

Specifically I'm wondering why the above two guys talked about replacing the left most 220uf on the back side. Any ideas?

Thanks!
leshric is offline  
post #413 of 857 Old 11-11-2011, 07:08 PM
Newbie
 
cood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnerbum View Post

Not exactly what it looks like since I haven't done mine, but I've fixed other things similar with a hot melt glue gun. Could you put the connector in place and then glue it with the hot melt?

Thanks for the tip Burnerbum... I think I will try that. Just hope the pins make connection after placing the glue . Thanks!
cood is offline  
post #414 of 857 Old 11-12-2011, 03:14 AM
Newbie
 
lcunha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi everyone, joined the forum just to to say thanks and share my experience with other members.

I have a 906 with the same HDMI connection problems everyone else is experimenting. After reading this threat I decided to replace all 100u caps and voila, everything's working as in day one!
I didn't take any pictures because the board is the same as the 876 board that Scottie2 posted a few posts back and I basically did the same he did.

So, as a confirmation, this fix will also repair a TX-NR906.

My most grateful thanks to CZ_the_DAY and everyone else!
lcunha is offline  
post #415 of 857 Old 11-12-2011, 03:29 PM
Member
 
cayfordb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Moraga, CA
Posts: 25
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Another win! My 606 has been getting worse and worse on BlueRay, and beginning to fail on 720p. I was about to replace it, and found this thread.

I replaced the 4 caps, managed to get the HDMI board out and back in again without breaking anything. And now, Joy! The Oppo works again, the Tivos too.

Thanks CZ and everyone else who shared their experience and tricks to make this work.
cayfordb is offline  
post #416 of 857 Old 11-15-2011, 11:24 PM
AVS Special Member
 
ChrisW6ATV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Hayward, Collie-fornia USA
Posts: 4,205
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottie2 View Post

After doing tons of research, I just managed to SUCCESSFULLY repair my TX-SR876 HDMI issues...

Thank you for the detailed notes and pictures! I still have no problems with my TX-SR876 (with cooling fans on top since the week I bought it), but now I know I should be able to fix this issue when (probably not "if") it happens. (I work in an industry with plenty of heat-related capacitor failures, and almost always, improved cooling delays this kind of failure but does not eliminate it. This week, I expect to replace some caps in video monitors that have stayed cool for about ten years of continuous use, while the monitors that got hot needed repairs after only one to four years.)

Chris

"It's [expletive] lame to watch Jaws, a film that uses the 2.40 ratio as well as any ever produced, in the wrong format on HBO." -Steven Soderbergh, Oscar-winning director

ChrisW6ATV is offline  
post #417 of 857 Old 11-16-2011, 08:50 PM
Newbie
 
ncnofear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by FEARDIZ View Post

Where does the C8602 neg. side connect to?

I had the same problem with C8602. The positive solder pad got pulled off. Can anyone help me figure a way to fix it? From some of the things I have read I think it would be ok to solder it with Q8651 as long as polarity is kept right.

Otherwise I did the repair. Replaced 9 of the 10 caps with 35v and 50v 100uf Radio Shack caps. My component through HDMI works and OSD, but not getting any video or audio through HDMI 1-4. Before I did the repair it would say no signal on the receiver, but that is gone. The light for HDMI shows up on the receiver, but my tv still shows no signal.

Do you think its because I still have everything set to 1080p as everyone else is saying that it may not except 1080p even after repairs.
ncnofear is offline  
post #418 of 857 Old 11-17-2011, 05:40 AM
Newbie
 
Paulicat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi all, great work to all who contributed in this thread!
I was on the verge of trashing the onkyo because of this problem (and much longer story of various incompatibilities) before finding this thread.
I replaced 6 caps 8072, 8096, 8602, 8607, 8609, 8162 and the "needs to warm up before any picture" problem is solved.
However after a few hours of use I got exactly the same problem as karel_007 in post 396.
I'm going to re-solder all the caps I installed as this blue/magenta problem never occurred before the cap replacement. I'll update if I find a permanent fix.
If anyone has any ideas of what to look for please chime in!
Paulicat is offline  
post #419 of 857 Old 11-17-2011, 02:37 PM
Newbie
 
leshric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Well I replaced the 100uf's and added the 1uf's to the regulators (which was hella difficult btw, needed a LOT of solder and it's still not very secure). HDMI switching is fast but still no OSD. I can live without the OSD so I'm pretty happy. I'll probably try adding a couple of fans to keep things cool.
leshric is offline  
post #420 of 857 Old 11-17-2011, 09:39 PM
Newbie
 
woodz93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Pardon the long post, I think this is a noteworthy observation.

For a month or so now, my Roku connected via component usually would 'white' out after an hr or so of inactivity. just a white screen. Switching to another input and then back would bring it back. Or sometimes I would be watching netflix or anything on component (either DVD or Roku) and on random occasion the top 5% of the screen would show artifacts, eventually leading to a screen whiteout. Again, switching inputs and back would bring it back to life. Recently, last week/ weekend marathon of Uncharted 3 and not turning off the unit for 5 days in a row I notice the OSD went kaput. Nothing serious going on with the PS3, HDMI inputs were all good. Composite inputs died as well. I figured maybe the repair has finally broke down and the unit went bonkers again. Instead of re-replacing all 4 caps, this time I figured go at it one at a time. I started with C8602. Visually, it looked like it was bloated a bit so that's what led me to start with that one. Replaced JUST THAT ONE and it is up and running again. So be sure to follow CZ_THE_DAY's recommendation to use auxiliary cooling. I may even extend the leads so that this particular capacitor is situated either closer to the side of the unit or that it is situated on the top side of the daughterboard, because the airspace of C8602 happens to be in the vicinity of a heatsink from the lower card. Since I got 3 of those caps as backup, I think I can experiment with ideal placement of that capacitor, should it die again (or I can return the 3 caps to rad shack so I have lunch money LOL)

Bottom line - the rad shack capacitors work fine for this purpose, it's lasted me over a yr now. Just remember to ventilate, or the one you replace for C8602 won't last very long...
woodz93 is offline  
Reply Receivers, Amps, and Processors

Tags
Onkyo Tx Nr807 , Onkyo Tx Sr606 Receiver
Gear in this thread

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off