How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 868 Old 02-06-2013, 05:53 PM
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I have tried to read through the thread, but the info is just to zig zaggy.

My issue is like others here. I HAD HDMI switching issues maybe a year ago. I came across a nice YouTube video that detailed it was the caps on the HDMI board. So I followed that guide and VOILA perfect switching again. Everything has been great since then.

Last night, after returning home from house sitting a few days, I went to turn on our HT. I got nothing. TV said Check Signal Cable. WTF. So jiggling all the cables and nothing.

Come to find out I am having the issue others have had. I get sound through HDMI because I can hear the PS3 start up jingle through the HT. My TV then puts an error about the Anynet device is screwy. So I am getting some signal through. I just have no video. I also don't get the setup screen to show.

What is the issue here? Are there other components besides the caps that go bad creating this issue?

I have also left the receiver running "warming up" now for probably 10-20 minutes while I searched, wrote and posted this. Still no video.


Edit: Receiver seems to be working fine now after replacing a cable. The "bad" cable works fine on our bedroom TV. That TV is 720P and hooked straight from the Roku to the TV. Could there be an issue with the cable for one type of usage but not the other?
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post #632 of 868 Old 02-15-2013, 08:46 PM
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Another SR706 fixed.

I spent some time on the phone with Onkyo. I tried fishing for the "one time complementary repair" mentioned earlier in the thread. Unfortunately for me, the phone rep I got was on a hellbent mission to sell me a new receiver through the buyback program. ...Sigh.

He really was a smart guy, he kept trying to impress me with how much he knew about the HDMI board. So I figured I might as well try to talk to the guy about it, maybe he knew about the capacitor issue being on the inside, and would offer some helpful tips. He got a little bit hostile and wanted to know how I knew about the caps going out. I told him about this thread.

"Oh yeah, the AVS forum... well they're all DIY'rs, none of them are 'professionals', so you really can't trust anything you read there." So I knew this guy wasn't going to help me. I asked if I could buy a daughter-board directly from Onkyo, he said I had to be a registered dealer. So I asked him for a nearby reference that could order one. The closest registered shop was in Atlanta, so I called them. Their tech was extremely helpful and forbearing with my questions. But the hard line was a bare minimum of $160 + shipping 300 miles each way to get the board installed.

What have I got to lose at this point. I bought 12 caps from Parts Express for $2.28: Part No. 020-1704.

I replaced all twelve tonight. Fixed. smile.gif

A thank you to CZ_the_day. If you have a paypal, I'd love to toss you some beer money. You saved me at least $157.72.

A big thank you to the guys who had the wits to apply the 606 fix to the 706 and posting about it.





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post #633 of 868 Old 02-18-2013, 02:42 PM
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I was able to fix my SR606 with the info here in this thread. Never again, Onkyo!

Thank you to everyone who's contributed, this is a great DIY fix success.
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post #634 of 868 Old 02-18-2013, 02:59 PM
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Emc209i you did a great job, nice and neat. Glad your fixed. Dam those Onk people!

Wishing I could post in the Ultra Hi-End HT Gear ($20,000+)

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post #635 of 868 Old 02-27-2013, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gferrell View Post

Emc209i you did a great job, nice and neat. Glad your fixed. Dam those Onk people!

Agreed. My 706 went out 2 years ago. I replaced it with an Onkyo HT-RC180. Last week my RC180's HDM boardI started to fail. I found this forum looking for answers and came across this fix for my 706. So I went into storage and pulled my 706 back out from the shadows and ordered some capacitors. The caps arrived in 2 days, and now my old 706 is resurrected. Now if only I can find some answers about why the HT-RC180 boards are failing. Shame on you ONKYO.

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO CONTRIBUTED TO THIS THREAD.
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post #636 of 868 Old 03-03-2013, 01:29 AM
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Well, my brother bought a Onkyo TX-SR606 3 1/2 years ago based on my advice, and now he has this video issue.
So, older brother feels bad for him.
For now leaving the Onkyo TX-SR606 on works, but that's not good in longer term.
A shame, he might tackle this fix.
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post #637 of 868 Old 03-03-2013, 07:04 AM
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Here is another relevant thread. Neat trick that works. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1431671/possible-diy-fix-for-onkyo-tx-nr3007-loss-of-audio-audio-problem-without-sending-the-unit-to-onkyo

I did the cap and re flow on a TX-SR608 hdmi board and it worked.

Wishing I could post in the Ultra Hi-End HT Gear ($20,000+)

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post #638 of 868 Old 03-03-2013, 11:47 PM
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Thanks to this thread I was able to repair my SR706. I can put that money towards better speakers now! Thanks to the OP and everyone else who has posted.
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post #639 of 868 Old 03-04-2013, 07:42 AM
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With 600+ posts I wonder if there is "admittance" by Onkyo this is a fundamental design and development issue, and they are fixing items outside of their warranty period.

Clearly non standard.

There was problem with Sony mid/late 2000's HDTV Optical Block, and Sony fessed up to it and had a limited repair program.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1216793/sony-optical-block-talk-and-repair-assitance

Like many here, I dis-like lawyers and class action lawsuits, however in some instances they seem to be only way to get big corporations to own up to their mistakes and do what is right for those that purchased their product in good faith.
Is there a class action lawsuit out there for this issue?
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post #640 of 868 Old 03-12-2013, 07:04 PM
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Well... that didn't last long.
After I replaced all the caps on the HDMI board... my SR576 was working great.
But I decided to get banana plugs and speaker pins to make all the wiring easier to deal with.

I finally got around to plugging in the zone 2 speakers with the new gold speaker pin-type connectors....
and made a big mistake:
The speaker pins are not shielded and the red/black pairs touch when connected to the back of the receiver... they shorted out as soon as I turned on zone 2 and now my HDMI board is fried again!

Hopefully others will learn from my stupidity....

After I replace the caps on the HDMI board again, I'll wrap each black speaker pin connector with electrical tape to prevent them from shorting out.
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post #641 of 868 Old 04-10-2013, 11:03 AM
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Noob soldering guy with SR-674 here, please read.

First, thanks CZ and all other for your contribution/info on this issue.

Actually registred just to write this post.

Had the same issue. Long warmup before HDMI worked. Read this thread and gave it a shoot.

The 674 only has two HDMI in:s and one out, and no scaler. There for (maybe???) I could not find as many 100's on my HDMI controller card.
I replaced four, the only "big" 100´s on the board. These were top side C8153, C8154 and bottom side C8853, C8911.

I'm a real noob at soldering, but patience got me there. My old man used to do this kind of stuff, so my experience is just watching him.
I did do some practice on some junk card I found, so I recommend this if noob. Especially removing the caps.

Anyway, all works fine thanks to this now. Handshake, OSD, everything I've tried.

Peace bothers and sisters
w

Update 20130414:
Hmm, seems like I jumped to conclusion...
The possitive result was due to AVR still beeing "warmed up" (sorry for that). The times I tested my daughter had actually used the AVR without my knowledge.

I then replaced all 100', 220' and the two 470' caps.
I didn't have the time to locate the specific faulty caps.

But anyway, so far it seems to be working flawlessly...and now I've made sure it's not been used ;-)
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post #642 of 868 Old 04-25-2013, 07:20 PM
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Another success!

HDMI's were flaking out.

I used the proper SMT caps, but found some with high temperature and life ratings. I have SMT equipment.

From Digikey:
493-3677-1-ND CAP ALUM 100UF 4V 20% SMD

Thank you very much!
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post #643 of 868 Old 04-27-2013, 11:26 AM
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I've had my 606 for almost 5 years and in the beginning it did give me some switching issues but mostly with the Wii (which has long since died). I'm posting mostly to determine if I should attempt this fix or if I have a different issue. Currently I have no switching issues though my video continually drops out randomly and there is a lot of video noise on the screen. The severity of the problem does vary but really any noise or video dropouts make it unusable.

The strange thing is that it only happens on HDMI 2,3,and 4 and not on HDMI 1. Currently I'm just manually switching HDMI cables since all I use it for is a PS3 and an HTPC but I'd like to fix it if possible. I'd hate to have to buy another receiver.

Here is video of the issue: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/41097107/VID_20130427_131143.mp4

Here is another when it is really bad: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/41097107/VID_20130427_131545.mp4

Again, HDMI 1 shows no issues and works fine.

Does this look like something that can be fixed by replacing these capacitors?
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post #644 of 868 Old 04-27-2013, 03:48 PM
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You can get your Onkyo HDMI problem fixed quickly and very reasonably by going to eBay and locating the listing entitled:

"ONKYO TX-SR606 7.1 A/V RECEIVER HDMI REPAIR SERVICE"

Just find the eBay listing number: 150664829211

Or, if I’m allowed to include a link, here it is:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150664829211?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_2455wt_1399

You could also Google “Onkyo TX-SR606 Repair Service” and look for the eBay listing.

This guy has outstanding feedback (check them out) and exceptionally fast turnaround time.
He repairs other models besides the 606 (see listing for details).
He has successfully repaired almost 200 Onkyos.

Best of luck to you!
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post #645 of 868 Old 04-28-2013, 08:43 PM
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Ok first of all major kudos to whoever figured this out!!! Brilliant work.

Secondly, I've done the repair with the 10 100uf capacitors, it fixed most of my problems... but the picture (which was non-existant before rolleyes.gif) is poor. Not sure what to make of this... seems like a color depth issue?

Xbox directly connected to projector --

Through the Onkyo (sucks!!) --


Will adding the other capacitors fix this or is my board FUBAR

Thank you!!!
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post #646 of 868 Old 04-29-2013, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Hubes Cumbs View Post

Ok first of all major kudos to whoever figured this out!!! Brilliant work.

Secondly, I've done the repair with the 10 100uf capacitors, it fixed most of my problems... but the picture (which was non-existant before rolleyes.gif) is poor. Not sure what to make of this... seems like a color depth issue?

Xbox directly connected to projector --

Through the Onkyo (sucks!!) --


Will adding the other capacitors fix this or is my board FUBAR

Thank you!!!

Update: I added the 5 1uf caps across the regulators, and also changed out the 220uF cap... still bad picture... I'm done with this POS... never buying onkyo again, they used to make good stuff back in the analog days but clearly not anymore..... just ordered a Sony DH-540!!!! biggrin.gif
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post #647 of 868 Old 05-10-2013, 01:44 PM
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Adding my thanks here to all who contributed to this fix.
I was just about to throw in the towel and buy a new receiver when the capacitors (from Amazon.com) finally arrived. Seems as though they were on a slow boat from China. I replaced 2 of the capacitors on the top of the board and the 4 on the bottom for my 606. HDMI handshaking works. Still no OSD. OSD isn't a big deal but I'd be willing to resolder if a particular cap has been identified that would fix the OSD.

I'm also curious if after all of this folks would still buy another Onkyo?

"And that's Worf Madam, not Woof!" -- Worf
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post #648 of 868 Old 05-10-2013, 02:06 PM
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I won't ever touch Onkyo again after the misadventure with my 906.
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post #649 of 868 Old 06-04-2013, 04:15 AM
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Does anyone know where I can purchase the black power wire that goes into the white connector? If the white connector is available for purchase, I would like to get one as well, if not I would just solder the new wire onto the back of the board.

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post #650 of 868 Old 06-04-2013, 04:17 AM
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double post
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post #651 of 868 Old 06-21-2013, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by eacks View Post

Does anyone know where I can purchase the black power wire that goes into the white connector? If the white connector is available for purchase, I would like to get one as well, if not I would just solder the new wire onto the back of the board.


Does anyone know where I can find this wire?
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post #652 of 868 Old 07-05-2013, 06:13 AM
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Luck that I found this thread smile.gif

No picture over the HDMI is displayed over my NR906 anymore.

So decided to replaced all 100uF caps and added 1uF Tantal caps to each DC converter.

and ?

Success !!!!!

Think I will replace all caps next to DC converters on the HDMI board, just to be on the save side.

THANK YOU
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post #653 of 868 Old 07-07-2013, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBacksFan5205 View Post


You can usually solder the replacement caps directly on the ground and the output of the applicable regulator device. For example, the cap on the top of the card (C8609) can be installed across Q8654 from the wide blade (Ground, negative) to the pin 3 output (if you're looking at the card with the HDMI connectors toward the top, pin 3 of Q8654 is the one toward the top of the card, also being the pin closest to C8609). Just solder your replacement cap across these two connections on Q8654, making sure you have the polarity correct (pin 3 - output will be the positive side of the cap). If you have an ohm meter, you can verify that the cap pads connect to these points (but maybe not if you've lifted the pads). I once lifted the pad on C8609 so badly that I had to add a jumper to TP15 since the output of Q8654 was no longer connected to Q8501 like it should have been.


Hope this helps!

Hey, quick question re an old post... How did you determine which side of the regulator (Q8654) was input vs output? From what I've seen, most regulators of this type always go from left to right (when facing the print side upright). In other words; Input...Ground...Output. I think the actual schematic shows the numbers in reverse but that should have no bearing on the physical layout, right?
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post #654 of 868 Old 07-10-2013, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joop2001 View Post


Hi,


Another succes story here with my TX-SR706! Yesterday I removed the 12 caps as mentioned by telnetdoogie (100uf/4v) and replaced them by these: 100uF 10V 105'C - Nippon LXF - Mini, High Freq. Use, Low Z, Long Life


No more warm up time here when using the 360. No more blue color where black should be.


Thank you all for the info!

One more 706 fixed!! Never soldered anything before in my life, but I replaced all 12 100uf caps and it works like new:) Also planning to put the 1uf film caps over the 3-pin regulators (there are 8 on the 706) to help prevent a relapse in the future. One piece of advice I would repeat from others in this forum is BE CAREFUL when you are removing the old caps...if you pull up too hard or twist too much you will tear / lift / pull up the soldering pad and possibly more of the pcb. I thought I was being careful but still lifted 2 pads, which took 5 times as long to repair than the actual caps and required a crash course in circuit boards and schematics. One other issue that seems to be fairly recurrent during this process is damaging the black power cable assembly...be smart when you remove the power cable from the board, it is easily disconnected by pressing down on the edges of white plug it is attached to (down=against the board), there is a tiny spring-like mechanism in it that grabs the wires and keeps them held in place, or releases them when depressed.

Big thanks CZ_the_DAY...also great posts and info from DBacksFan5205, niki-amc, barrooze, ghettosuperstar, FEARDIZ, Kris404, and Samaritano.

Other very helpful resources:
spldart at http://www.highdefforum.com/high-definition-receivers-recorders-players-tivos/106255-onkyo-tx-sr606-hdmi-switching-headache-4.html
telnetdoogie at http://telnetdoogie.blogspot.com/2011/06/onkyo-sr-tx706-hdmi-issues.html
And the great video from Ed at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gj0x5S9ez5U&feature=player_embedded
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post #655 of 868 Old 07-12-2013, 06:24 AM
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I was able to fix my 4 year old Onkyo TX-SR607. One day I had no picture and the on-screen menu won’t come on. After 20min of the unit being on sometimes a picture would appear, but it didn’t seem consistent.

The location of the capacitors on the circuit board was a little different as all 5 were on the bottom. I just replaced all the 100uF capacitors on the board. I used Digikey part no. PCE3054CT-ND Before attempting this, I had 0% soldering experience and 0% working on circuit boards. All the info in this thread gave me everything I needed to know!

Thank you for this thread!
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post #656 of 868 Old 07-17-2013, 05:44 PM
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Hello.
Is this a solution for my Problem?:

The TX-SR576 does not passthrough 1080p.
I had maked a factory reset, and the sat receiver (Vu+ Solo² with 1080p output) and camcorder works mit 1080i/720p...-Output.
In the moment I switch (in camcroder or Solo²) to 1080p, darkness and silence...

In the statutory warranty even a 1080p bug was fixed some time ago. At the time the image was blurred. Letters and lines were not exactly pixels. They had shadows.
Slightly Like a compression.

After the image was sharp again. Dansch 1080p was used but no longer.
The new satellite receiver solo ² has 1080p output, and it occurred to me that it does not work.
Now the statutory 2-year warranty is over.


thanks...
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post #657 of 868 Old 08-17-2013, 05:20 AM
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I am going to attempt this repair on my PR-SC885P. I have OSD on the HDMI output, but cannot get HDMI handshake on any of the inputs. I see the 1uF across regulator step mentioned a few times, does anyone have details on why/how to do this at the same time as the 100uF replacements? Thanks
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post #658 of 868 Old 08-18-2013, 06:06 AM
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My TX-SR705 is doing the same thing. No HDMI output but OSD via HDMI is working (I guess OSD is 480P?) I am planning to replace all 100uF caps, is there any other replacement needs to be done?

thanks
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post #659 of 868 Old 08-19-2013, 06:03 AM
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Another TX-SR576 FIXED! Thank you so much OP!

Symptoms: could not connect 1080p / 60hz except after 1hr of warming up (and only stayed connected for a few minutes).

Mine was still in warranty but I really could not be bothered waiting weeks for a repair. I ordered some Panasonic capacitors at a total cost of $1.60 including next day shipping, 30mins of work later and the AVR connects perfectly biggrin.gif
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post #660 of 868 Old 08-24-2013, 10:32 PM
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Hello,

I have a TX-NR5007 (that I got as someone's hand-me-down, long story). I hooked it up and saw that after a few minutes, the image out to the TV would freeze up or go out, both over HDMI and composite. Audio still worked. Resetting the unit would immediately have no or frozen picture. If I waited some to let the internals cool and then turned it back on, I'd get a picture back for a few minutes before it froze again, so probably a heat related issue. The input video and audio signals were over HDMI (from a PS3 and a Comcast HD box) so I assume that the HDMI board in the unit is having issues like a lot of other Onkyo sets. I count 6 100uF 4V caps on the bottom side of the HDMI board. Should I only replace these or go after all the other caps as well?

Also, am I right in assuming that the caps marked

J3
100
4V

Are the ones that are commonly talked about in this topic that are replaced?

Thanks.
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