How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 869 Old 05-05-2014, 09:18 PM
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Check for bridging of copper traces, also could be reversed polarity caps!

Take your time and check everything over.....pictures of what you did would help us....
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post #812 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 12:51 AM
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I have a TX-NR905 that I'm trying to remove from the receiver. I have a problem with the large ribbon cable shown in the image below. How do I remove it? I think it's locked in some way because I've tried pulling it, hard, and wiggling it but it's really stuck. Would really appreciate your help.


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post #813 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 01:11 AM
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Push down on the plastic thing and the bare cable should slide right out.
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post #814 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 07:42 AM
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post #815 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 07:47 AM
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I included the following images for your assistance. The fuse goes at 5A/12V when I insert the HDMI card. Not capacitor changes made to HDMI card. Also as a side note before I made the changes to the HDMI card I tried to reinsert the HDMI card because I thought it would work through the optical input with the HDMI card removed. Once I realized it didnt work I put the HDMI card back in and the fuse blew. So I don't think it is due to the capacitors I changed in the HDMI Card. I either did something to the 5 pin power cable or i'm doing something else wrong. Any help will be appreciated. I can't afford to buy a new stereo right now so hopefully I can get this to work again.

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post #816 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 07:49 AM
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When the HDMI card is inserted I did not screw in the HDMI screws yet and inserted this HDMI card into the three white connectors as much as possible. Everything looks good.

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post #817 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 10:22 AM
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Update: I reinstalled the HDMI card and did two things differently. I made sure the three connectors weren't super tight and I inserted the the screws in the back of the hdmi ports. Sounds has returned via optical cable. Now I need to test to see if the HDMI's are working now. Fingers crossed.

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post #818 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkmarus View Post

Update: I reinstalled the HDMI card and did two things differently. I made sure the three connectors weren't super tight and I inserted the the screws in the back of the hdmi ports. Sounds has returned via optical cable. Now I need to test to see if the HDMI's are working now. Fingers crossed.
Might have just needed those screws for a proper ground...
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post #819 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 02:21 PM
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sounds like you may have soldered a cap the wrong way... check your polarity... i hope the board was not damaged.

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #820 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 03:49 PM
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Update: so left on the reciever and it blew the 12 V fuse again and is continually clicking. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong I attached pictures above and in have no clue what's wrong with this reciever. Thanks for all your help
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post #821 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 04:16 PM
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Hi Guys,

 

So this worked for over a few hrs then went back into protect mode. I have no clue what I am doing wrong. I attached these pics. Its definately not my soldering job. Its something to do with the power/ground to the board or the three connectors to the mother board. Can anyone tell anything from this picture?

 

 

 

 

 

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post #822 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkvet95 View Post

Check for bridging of copper traces, also could be reversed polarity caps!

Take your time and check everything over.....pictures of what you did would help us....

My earlier pictures shows the caps. Looks like no polarity problems. This problem was happening also before I modified the capacitors.

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post #823 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkmarus View Post

This problem was happening also before I modified the capacitors.
In that case, most people's knowledge in this thread is limited to capacitor issues so you might try a thread more along power issue lines or something. Have you googled for the symptoms that you are seeing?
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post #824 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 06:38 PM
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Are you sure the 5 wire power ribbon cable is oriented correctly? It will blow the fuse if reversed polarity! White mark is ground side and should match grounded end on board connector.
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post #825 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkvet95 View Post

Are you sure the 5 wire power ribbon cable is oriented correctly? It will blow the fuse if reversed polarity! White mark is ground side and should match grounded end on board connector.

Thanks. I don't see a white mark. I see a slightly gray cable at the end where the ground is. Is this what you are referring to. You can see what I'm referring to in the pics above. Unless you are referring to the ribbon cable.

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post #826 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 08:22 PM
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Yes, that's it!
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post #827 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 09:23 PM
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So everything about the connections checks out. I think this reciever is junk. It worked fine for 5 hrs then blew the fuse and went into protection mode when I was not home. Does anyone hear have an idea why this is happening?

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post #828 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 09:47 PM
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Ok I give up. I'm going to put a peice of metail in the fuse and see what blows up on the reciever. That should show me whats at fault. At least then I will know. anyone suggest anything else.

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post #829 of 869 Old 05-06-2014, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkmarus View Post
 

My earlier pictures shows the caps. Looks like no polarity problems. This problem was happening also before I modified the capacitors.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by crakarjax View Post


In that case, most people's knowledge in this thread is limited to capacitor issues so you might try a thread more along power issue lines or something. Have you googled for the symptoms that you are seeing?

 

Crakarjax,

 

What happened is I took out the hdmi card. I noticed the unit sound wouldn't work without it so I reinserted the card thinking it would go back to working. The fuse blew I have since replaced it many times with no success with the HDMI card inside. Yesterday I got it working video and all for 5 hrs then it blew again and went back into protection mode. No clue what to do. This reciever is only worth a $100 dollars and I have no idea where to start to fix this. Any suggestions?

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post #830 of 869 Old 05-07-2014, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkmarus View Post


Crakarjax,

What happened is I took out the hdmi card. I noticed the unit sound wouldn't work without it so I reinserted the card thinking it would go back to working. The fuse blew I have since replaced it many times with no success with the HDMI card inside. Yesterday I got it working video and all for 5 hrs then it blew again and went back into protection mode. No clue what to do. This reciever is only worth a $100 dollars and I have no idea where to start to fix this. Any suggestions?
No idea here unfortunately. You can get a really nice receiver for small beans though if you keep you eyes peeled -- I picked up an 876, which is THX Ultra 2 for $250 on ebay. 607's can be had for 1-200 as well.

I think that if you are going to commit to fixing the thing, you're about to embark on what will become a huge learning experience for yourself -- after which, you might just be an a/v tech on the side wink.gif Good luck!
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post #831 of 869 Old 05-12-2014, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkmarus View Post


Crakarjax,

What happened is I took out the hdmi card. I noticed the unit sound wouldn't work without it so I reinserted the card thinking it would go back to working. The fuse blew I have since replaced it many times with no success with the HDMI card inside. Yesterday I got it working video and all for 5 hrs then it blew again and went back into protection mode. No clue what to do. This reciever is only worth a $100 dollars and I have no idea where to start to fix this. Any suggestions?

mkmarus, when you have the card removed does the unit go into protect mode? or just no sound? If you can get any sound even from the analog inputs or the unit's amplification circuits are running (ie not in protect mode) with the card removed, then I would say it may be a shorted/bad regulator on the daughter card. Or a cable problem like you described. But the fact that you had it running for a period of time before it failed again is peculiar. Semiconductors are generally good or bad, and do not 'kind of work'.

Firstly, the fuse you show in the pictures is a 5A 125V AC fuse for the whole unit, is this the fuse you speak of? you mention 12V not 125.

But, poking around couldn't hurt at this point ( especially with your alternative of just blowing it up tongue.gif ). When it failed 5 hours later, were you using it? and if so what it after a length of heavy or light use. I'd start by grabbing a handy multimeter and checking all the diodes you can find, including the rectifier's on the power board, and any switching device (ie power transistors, they'll be stuck to heat sinks). I do not recommend shunting across the fuse.. That may show you where the problem is, but could cause more! eek.gif Hopefully you haven't done this yet.. lol

At the worst, I'll take the unit off your hands. I'd rather try'n fix her and give her a good home opposed to a dumpster smile.gif I've a UPS account number for shipping. PM me if interested in that route.

Regards,
Jack.
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post #832 of 869 Old 05-12-2014, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RidDleZ View Post


mkmarus, when you have the card removed does the unit go into protect mode? or just no sound? If you can get any sound even from the analog inputs or the unit's amplification circuits are running (ie not in protect mode) with the card removed, then I would say it may be a shorted/bad regulator on the daughter card. Or a cable problem like you described. But the fact that you had it running for a period of time before it failed again is peculiar. Semiconductors are generally good or bad, and do not 'kind of work'.

Firstly, the fuse you show in the pictures is a 5A 125V AC fuse for the whole unit, is this the fuse you speak of? you mention 12V not 125.

But, poking around couldn't hurt at this point ( especially with your alternative of just blowing it up tongue.gif ). When it failed 5 hours later, were you using it? and if so what it after a length of heavy or light use. I'd start by grabbing a handy multimeter and checking all the diodes you can find, including the rectifier's on the power board, and any switching device (ie power transistors, they'll be stuck to heat sinks). I do not recommend shunting across the fuse.. That may show you where the problem is, but could cause more! eek.gif Hopefully you haven't done this yet.. lol

At the worst, I'll take the unit off your hands. I'd rather try'n fix her and give her a good home opposed to a dumpster smile.gif I've a UPS account number for shipping. PM me if interested in that route.

Regards,
Jack.

 

Thanks for your message Jack. I still would like to fix this unit if I can. Its more of a hobby since the unit isn't worth very much. Any help you can provide will be appreciated. I will try replacing the fuse without the HMDI card and will report back on how it goes. Thanks love this community.

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post #833 of 869 Old 05-12-2014, 09:35 AM
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That's the spirit! Also, that was a pretty quick reply. Good too see you're still interested in fixing her.

I'll be awaiting your results.
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post #834 of 869 Old 05-16-2014, 02:24 PM
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I have a 606. Aren't I lucky. At first I thought my BR player had gone bad even though it worked directly connected to the TV. Then the HDMI started going bad, not showing video. I blamed this on my grandson disconnecting things which he did quite often, (probably a future tech). I accidentally came across this thread and signed up just to thank all the contributors, especially CZ for their work. I have ordered the parts from Mouser and will report back as soon as I finish or get out of the hospital if things go south.

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post #835 of 869 Old 05-19-2014, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JustMick View Post
 

I have a 606. Aren't I lucky. At first I thought my BR player had gone bad even though it worked directly connected to the TV. Then the HDMI started going bad, not showing video. I blamed this on my grandson disconnecting things which he did quite often, (probably a future tech). I accidentally came across this thread and signed up just to thank all the contributors, especially CZ for their work. I have ordered the parts from Mouser and will report back as soon as I finish or get out of the hospital if things go south.


So here's my follow up. Worked perfect. 10 caps changed without issue. I had forgotten this receiver had OSD. I think it works better than ever. Could be that it hasn't worked right in so long. My thanks again to all the contributors. You saved me big.

CZ_the_DAY likes this.
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post #836 of 869 Old 06-10-2014, 06:27 PM
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Hi.

Btw., in my TX-SR576 this big black "4 leg" component has no heatsink o_0.
Why? On his photo (CZ_the_day), he has a heatsink.
Should I upgrade a cooler? This TX-SR-576 has run 5,5+ years (buyed end of Nov. 2008) without this heatsink.


@ CZ_the_day:




P.S.:
Do you have the electrolytic capacitors (100uF specifically) all tested with an ESR meter?
All 100µF caps were bad? Only interest.
Or just exchanged on suspicion?
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post #837 of 869 Old 06-22-2014, 05:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZ_the_DAY View Post
<b>--------------------------------- PART 1 ----------------------------------</b><br>
Did your ONKYO work great for a year or more and then start exhibiting difficulty locking or remaining locked on your HDMI stream ? Do you need to warm it up like a 1957 television and it keeps getting longer ? Some of you instead lose component video sources or On Screen Display from its HDMI out.<br>
Well my unit finally became unbearable and after a few hours of time well wasted on the internet, the uncertain deed was attempted. This post is an effort to enlighten those who may be interested too. I figured that eventually as these AVRs age beyond warranty, some of you may want to also take matters into your own hands.<br>
This guide is based on my own '576, but should benefit other models in the design family with HDMI related failures provided that you extrapolate the concepts to fit your application.<br><br>
A <i>must</i> read, especially for 606 owners, later in this thread (circa 3 months later); <a href="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18993413#post18993413" target="_blank">http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post18993413</a> It takes some of the guesswork out of what I didn't know when this thread was started (TYVM mycotopian !)<br><br>
Now for your amusement, some visual aids.....<br><br><b><br>
_____________WARRANTY VOID PAST THIS POINT______________</b><br>
*Besides the obvious required shell removal, the HDMI board is secured by a screw on each port and a plastic riser<br>
*Power ribbon release <b>requires you to press down on the plug's top surface</b> ( See below pic; push before and until ribbon has been easily liberated or you may damage it like others will sadly report )<br>
*Higher end models will have other interconnects to remove thanks to the A/D+upscaler+OSD<br>
*Daughterboard will detach from the host at the three sockets. Something like a large flat blade screwdriver being twisted (wrap with tape to avoid gouging the vertical board) can be used as a wedge between the two boards in conjunction with pulling. There is room near the front-most socket. Just be sure that you have missed no HDMI port screws first )<br><a href="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174313" target="_blank">Attachment 174313</a><br><img alt="" src="http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy227/cz_the_day/press2release.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br><br><br><br><br>
*We are ,at a minimum, interested in removing/replacing all caps marked '100'(uF)<br>
*It's easiest to just break the leads using a 1/16 turn, twisting motion<br><a href="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174314" target="_blank">Attachment 174314</a><br><img alt="" src="http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy227/cz_the_day/twist.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br><br><br><br><br>
*Just repeat a back and forth motion until it eventually lets go (a dozen or more 'twists')<br>
*It's important to not overtorque the traces as complications result (don't make me post video <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="Big Grin">)<br><a href="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174315" target="_blank">Attachment 174315</a><br><img alt="" src="http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy227/cz_the_day/yoink.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br><br><br><br><br>
*Comparitive size of the offenders highlights the dexterity involved<br>
*My board only had six (top+bottom) but higher end versions are fully populated and seem to have eight or ten<br><a href="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174316" target="_blank">Attachment 174316</a><br><img alt="" src="http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy227/cz_the_day/offenders.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br><br><br><br><br>
*I suggest using non-SMD replacements as they allow for improved soldering access<br>
*Be sure to get <b>polarized, 'radial', 100uF/10V</b> (6.3 minimum)/<b>105`C</b> rated caps (I see 85`C versions on the board underneath <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/images/smilies/eek.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="EEK!">) &lt;-('S3K' edit within)<br>
-- for the purests out there, this is close to OEM; <a href="http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/United-Chemi-Con-UCC/APSA100ELL101MFA5G/?qs=iXcfd2MmwnuFiJ8z6zt%252bxg%3D%3D" target="_blank">http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...t%252bxg%3d%3d</a> -- &lt;-(added thanks to 'NoAVsense')<br>
*Match the new cap's negative (shorter lead or ' - ' marking) to the square side of the silkscreened outline on the board (where the black marked side of the old cap was) ; or refer to <a href="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=18569386&amp;postcount=15" target="_blank">http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...6&amp;postcount=15</a> and note that, for the most part, the points of the red arrows are touching the negative terminal. &lt;-(added thanks to 'navtek'/'chupinsky27')<br>
*The old cap's terminal stubs preferably should be desoldered otherwise watch out for bridges (shorts) should one wander<br>
*My iron's tip is fatter than I would have preferred<br>
*minimize heating time to prevent trace or cap damage<br><a href="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174317" target="_blank">Attachment 174317</a><br><img alt="" src="http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy227/cz_the_day/heat-n-go.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br><br>
It would be ideal to replace all the caps on this board ( or AVR for that matter <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/images/smilies/eek.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="EEK!"> ) We are hoping to narrow that down considerably by doing some analysis coupled with good old trial-and-error.<br><br>
Your situation may be less advanced ; same problem but less symptomatic. Your troubles could be multiple ; beyond the scope of this guide.( ie EEPROM ) Also, a higher valued model further justifies the cost of a professional repair. Early adopters who report positive results could help you decide.<br><br><b>[ UPDATE;December 2011: Common theme among positive feedback is that restoring just the HDMI switch is easier than achieving OSD and Upconversion. Brute force replacement seems to be more effective than keeping the parts count low... but YMMV. To those who seemed to have or will join AVSforum just to express gratitude, I say the effort is greatly received! ]</b><br><br>
Use common (?) sense with patience and you'll probably have a much more cooperative piece of equipment once it's put back together...what do you mean you can't remember how it goes together? (lol) Good Luck !<br><br>
[ <i>to be continued...addressing the root cause</i> ]<br><a href="http://cdn.avsforum.com/a/a5/a599007e_vbattach174316.jpeg"><img alt="LL" src="http://cdn.avsforum.com/a/a5/525x525px-LL-a599007e_vbattach174316.jpeg" style="width:525px;height:369px;"></a><br><a href="http://cdn.avsforum.com/f/fb/fba82291_vbattach174315.jpeg"><img alt="LL" src="http://cdn.avsforum.com/f/fb/525x525px-LL-fba82291_vbattach174315.jpeg" style="width:525px;height:369px;"></a><br><a href="http://cdn.avsforum.com/5/5b/5be4167d_vbattach174314.jpeg"><img alt="LL" src="http://cdn.avsforum.com/5/5b/525x525px-LL-5be4167d_vbattach174314.jpeg" style="width:525px;height:369px;"></a><br><a href="http://cdn.avsforum.com/2/21/21e8e220_vbattach174313.jpeg"><img alt="LL" src="http://cdn.avsforum.com/2/21/525x525px-LL-21e8e220_vbattach174313.jpeg" style="width:525px;height:369px;"></a><br><a href="http://cdn.avsforum.com/f/f3/f322acfd_vbattach174317.jpeg"><img alt="LL" src="http://cdn.avsforum.com/f/f3/525x525px-LL-f322acfd_vbattach174317.jpeg" style="width:525px;height:369px;"></a>
Thanks for taking the extensive time and providing your fantastic in depth assistance in helping fix my 606. My only contribution would be to suggest soldering off the old caps to reduce the risk of board damage.
I was extremely patient and slow in my removal of the caps and still one of them managed to separate more than just a lead and solder. I had to scrape a bit of nearby green down to copper and was fortunate enough to have enough room to make another solid lead connection.
Again, thanks so much for taking the time to help others.
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post #838 of 869 Old 06-22-2014, 05:45 PM
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Hey folks! Came across this thread after having HDMI problems with my HT-R670 that came with Onkyo's HT-S6200 HTiB (yeah, I know, I know - I was young and naive when I bought it). After browsing the thread, it looks like nobody had given this repair a shot on this specific model but I'm happy to report that despite being a complete novice when it comes to soldering (only did it a couple times before, and that was over a decade ago) it looks to have been a success!

There are five 100uF capacitors on the HDMI board, all on the bottom and none on the top. I've circled them in red - note that I'd already removed one when I took this photo. Sorry for potato quality of the photo.



I replaced the capacitors with 100uF, 35V, 105C-rated capacitors I picked up at Fry's.



As for solder, I went with Radio Shack's recommendation and used the following.



Here's a close-up of one of the board after removing one of the capacitors.



And a shot of one of the new capacitors soldered to the board. Not the cleanest solder but it's not too bad for a beginner, I think!



Here's the board with all the replacement capacitors installed.



And one final shot of the board back in the receiver.



I'll report back if things go sideways in the next few days. Hope this helps, and thanks to everybody in the thread who shared their experiences!

Last edited by kylejn; 06-22-2014 at 05:50 PM.
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post #839 of 869 Old 06-23-2014, 08:35 AM
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Looks good! Nice solder joints.
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post #840 of 869 Old 06-25-2014, 05:53 AM
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Have replaced the 100uf caps and added 3x 1uf on my SR606. I am now getting OSD which I didnt have before, but still no sound or picture. The screen turns from blue to black when I plug in the hdmi source, but nothing else happens. Any ideas please?
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