How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 29 - AVS Forum
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post #841 of 868 Old 06-26-2014, 12:25 AM
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Quick update... I left the receiver switched on whilst I went out for a few hours. I came back to find the hdmi working. After watching a film for a few hours, I had problems with the picture showing lines and snow, going black, then the picture coming back ok. Any ideas?

Thanks
Paul

edit: Oh something else I noticed, was when plugging in the hdmi cable and the metal part of the hdmi connector touches the receiver casing it arcs slightly. I'm guessing this isn't normal?

Last edited by A[L]C; 06-26-2014 at 12:32 AM.
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post #842 of 868 Old 06-26-2014, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A[L]C View Post
Quick update... I left the receiver switched on whilst I went out for a few hours. I came back to find the hdmi working. After watching a film for a few hours, I had problems with the picture showing lines and snow, going black, then the picture coming back ok. Any ideas?

Thanks
Paul

edit: Oh something else I noticed, was when plugging in the hdmi cable and the metal part of the hdmi connector touches the receiver casing it arcs slightly. I'm guessing this isn't normal?
The arcing is not normal, did you forget to connect a ground wire or something? I would take the HDMI card out again and reseat it, making sure everything is connected properly.
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post #843 of 868 Old 06-30-2014, 07:43 PM
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Hi folks, I just did this repair to a TX-sr706 hdmi board by replacing (most) of the capacitors on the hdmi daughter board and would like to report (what appears to be) a full recovery of audio hardware and a 95% recovery of the video hardware. For your reference, here are images of the repair (high rez):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j0qwst3e3cdk0si/2014-06-29%2012.49.18.png
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mliut2o9a3...2012.49.33.png

Due to stock issues at my local Fry's, I was only able to obtain 10 100uF (105C) capacitors this time (a mix of 25 and 35V), so I had to decide which two capacitors skip. I'm not sure if my logic is totally sound, but I chose to replace all capacitors that were associated with voltage regulators, and then work out from the HDMI output jack. Can anyone comment on the functionality of the capacitors that I did not replace (C3502 and C3402)? They both seem to be associted with a +3.3V power supply, but I'm not savvy enough to go any further than that. The nearest IC is marked ISSI in both cases.

The only remaining issue with the receiver at this point is that some deep blacks will show up as blues, which prevents me from passing HDMI through the device.

Many thanks to you all for this thread, I've found it most informative.
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post #844 of 868 Old 07-02-2014, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZ_the_DAY View Post
Apparently, as per the manufacturer datasheets, the 'lifespan' of a given Cap is typically only a couple thousand hours when at the rated temperature. Hence my push to use top notch stuff in case heat build-up isn't reduced. Other variables like materials or size (result of voltage rating,etc) may have unknown subtle effects in sensitive circumstances (rocket science alert!).
Bottom line: thankfully this repair has been proven to be somewhat flexible.
Well... I should have opted for the better caps. My 606 is exhibiting the same problem as before. It's taking about 30 minutes to get a signal from the HDMI ports. I'm going to bust this thing open and get a co-worker (the same as 4 years ago!) to do the fix for me again.

Does anyone have specific caps that they used without any problems?

Here's what I found based on the OP:
APSA100ELL101MFA5G
Capacitance 100µF
Voltage Rating 10V
Tolerance ±20%
ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) 25 mOhm
Lifetime @ Temp. 2000 Hrs @ 105°C
Operating Temperature -55°C ~ 105°C

Last edited by SomethingMore; 07-02-2014 at 02:25 PM.
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post #845 of 868 Old 07-02-2014, 05:21 PM
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SomethingMore,

Rubycon caps seem to work well.
The YXF series.
100uF
50V
105C
Typical ESR = 0.15 Ohms

Cheers!
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post #846 of 868 Old 07-03-2014, 08:37 AM
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I think the brand doesn't matter so much as the specs. The higher the temp rating the better -- and higher voltage rating doesn't hurt at all.
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post #847 of 868 Old 07-03-2014, 10:06 AM
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Thanks guys. I think I'll go with something very similar to DBacks' suggestion. A local shop seems to have a different brand, but with the same specs.
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post #848 of 868 Old 07-04-2014, 06:27 AM
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Part ID

Hey guys, started having problems with my HDMI signal again, and while removing the board i managed to break one of the leads for this part. I desoldered the other side, but i cannot repair the connection because it pulled some small wire from inside the housing that i cannot access. I have no idea what this part is called, and have no luck so far searching the "470 M80" markings. thanks for the help

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post #849 of 868 Old 07-05-2014, 05:46 PM
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Scottie2,

That part is an inductor (or choke coil). It is circuit part L8954, PN RCP1317NP-470M.

Check availability at: http://www.findchips.com/search/RCP1317NP-470M

Apparently they are available at Avnet Express, Mouser Electronics, Digi-key, etc.

Good Luck!
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post #850 of 868 Old 07-08-2014, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kylejn View Post
And a shot of one of the new capacitors soldered to the board. Not the cleanest solder but it's not too bad for a beginner, I think!
I'm not sure, but it looks as if the negative lead of the cap (the white stripe down the side) is going to the positive pad (with beveled corners on the outline). Or maybe a reflection off the cap just looks like a white stripe.

If the polarity is reversed the cap would probably work for a while but eventually the dielectric would break down and the cap would short.
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post #851 of 868 Old 07-20-2014, 08:15 AM
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First off I wanted to say thanks to CZ_the_day for making this thread. I've owned a TX-SR706 for the past eight years and apparently I've one of the few lucky ones that haven't had any problems out of it. I had to do a hard reset on it once about seven years ago for a HDMI problem but that's it.

About a month ago lighting struck a utility pole across the road and took out a bunch of things in the house, cable modem, PS3, lights and unfortunately my Onkyo receiver. Everything except the lights were on surge protectors but with the lighting striking so close and the transformer arcing for so long it didn't seem to matter.

Everything on the receiver still works correctly except the HDMI part. I have audio but no video and the setup menu screen will not display.

After searching Google I found this thread and have been reading it on and off for the past week.

My symptoms match those listed in this thread. I'm going to attempt to source the caps locally this evening. While I'm in the receiver is there anything else I should look for or test? I have an extensive background in automotive wiring and diagnostics but none with this.

Thanks for any help and great thread!

Jason
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post #852 of 868 Old 07-21-2014, 11:18 PM
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I replaced all the caps tonight and still no picture. Is there anything else to check or am I stuck replacing the receiver or replacing the hdmi board and hopes that fixes it?
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post #853 of 868 Old 07-22-2014, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilJayV10 View Post
I replaced all the caps tonight and still no picture. Is there anything else to check or am I stuck replacing the receiver or replacing the hdmi board and hopes that fixes it?
The cheapest route for you I think is to buy a working used 706 and swap parts/boards into your old one until it works. If you can fix that part, great -- do so and re-sell that 706. If not, you now have a working receiver anyway, and likely for less than a repair center would cost you.
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post #854 of 868 Old 07-22-2014, 05:44 PM
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Or, pick up a newer used receiver with newer technology. Dread when I have to make the decision with my 876. Still going strong but only really use it when watching movies.
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post #855 of 868 Old 07-23-2014, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by eaayoung View Post
Or, pick up a newer used receiver with newer technology. Dread when I have to make the decision with my 876. Still going strong but only really use it when watching movies.
IDK, I bought a used 876 about 4 months ago and love it. Doesn't lack any feature that I would use, and sounds amazing. Audio fidelity doesn't change over time, only technologies do -- and a lot of the newer technologies are useless, for me.
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post #856 of 868 Old 07-24-2014, 03:50 AM
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Another Onkyo fixed

Just wanted to say thank you. Fixed my receiver last night using the information in this thread. Plainview, NY.
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post #857 of 868 Old 07-24-2014, 04:35 AM
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Another Onkyo fixed

Thank you for the information. Fixed my receiver yesterday. Plainview, NY.
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post #858 of 868 Old 07-27-2014, 12:09 PM
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Has anyone fixed the caps on the HDMI board of the Onkyo 705? I'm trying to figure out how to get the board out of the receiver. It's plugged in to the mainboard but the HDMI board also has inputs for COAX on it. I can't figure out how to unplug it from the mainboard while the COAX in goes through the back. Maybe the back faceplate needs to be removed first?
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post #859 of 868 Old 07-27-2014, 08:16 PM
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Today I replaced all the capacitors on my 606 and the audio through HDMI now works great and I can switch between sources with ease. Unfortunately I can't seem to get any video output through HDMI. This was a problem before the fix (I wasn't getting video or audio). Anyone have any suggestions? I came across one post about the HDMI output being disabled or something, but I can't seem to find any settings I may have screwed up while fiddling with it that might cause that.
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post #860 of 868 Old 07-28-2014, 05:20 PM
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Another TX-SR606 success story! Just bought a used SR606 for around $50, great condition but with the HDMI problem (no OSD, no upconversion or upscaling). So thanks for all the help on this and similar forums / threads. Here's what I did.

I removed the HDMI board and measured all of the 100uF, 220uF and the one 22uF SMD caps in situ with a capacitance meter. They all gave varying readings, none of them what they should be. The 100uF varied between 10uF and 45uF, the 220uF varied between 10uF and 170uF, the 22uF measured as 10uF.

Like others, I found an extra 10uF/50V eletrolytic across a regulator with white stuff underneath it - this is just glue to stop it shifting around, nothing wrong with the cap.

Following the isntructions in this and other similar threads on how to remove the SMDs (careful twisting to break the contacts, then desolder the old lugs and re-tin the board contacts and the new cap leads), I replaced just one of each value and measured the new ones in situ to make sure I wasn't getting false readings from other components - they each read correctly (or very close to it).

So I went ahead and replaced the lot. That's all of the 100uF, 200uF and the one 22uF SMD caps with non-SMD 105c 16V (or higher) electrolytics. I also soldered 1uF/100V metal film 'Greencaps' across the four regulators as described in similar threads (needed to scrape the contacts clean and use quite a lot of heat on the big contact to get the solder to flow).

Took a couple of hours of careful work over a couple of evenings, but actually not that difficult once I got into the swing of it. Trick is not to try to rush it. Made sure I carefully checked the polarity of each cap, visually inspected the joints and measured it in place once installed to ensure no dry joints or shorts.

Last night I re-installed the board, turned the receiver on and wow! everything works perfectly. OSD, upscaling, upconversion, the lot! Hopefully it will continue to do so for a good long time. Cost me only around $12 in new caps from my local electronics store plus a bit of research and time.

So thanks guys! You rock!

P.S. I also did a factory reset (hold DV/VCR and then power off) just in case, but I think that was unnecessary.

Last edited by serafis; 07-28-2014 at 05:23 PM. Reason: Added P.S.
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post #861 of 868 Old 07-30-2014, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebo View Post
I'm not sure, but it looks as if the negative lead of the cap (the white stripe down the side) is going to the positive pad (with beveled corners on the outline). Or maybe a reflection off the cap just looks like a white stripe.

If the polarity is reversed the cap would probably work for a while but eventually the dielectric would break down and the cap would short.
Sorry for the late reply! It's just a reflection; I triple-checked all the caps before I shut it back up. Things are still working great.
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post #862 of 868 Old 08-03-2014, 07:00 AM
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The HDMI-OUT of my 805 does not work anymore. If no cable is connected to the ouput, the AVR plays DTS-HD Master audio from BR. So iÍ replaced all the caps on the HDMI board (4.7µF, 22µF, 100µF, 220µF, 470µF) by Panasonic FC 105°C LowESR. But nothing changed. Still not working. Seems to be dead.. Did anyone try to resolder the HDMI ports and/or ICs with a hot air gun ?
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post #863 of 868 Old 08-14-2014, 10:45 PM
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I'm not sure why I did it. I already have an 876 that is going on six years old and performing flawlessly. But I acquired a 906 with a non functioning HDMI board(it was free!) and I'm drooling over the power supply(toroidal)! Many thanks to all of the meticulous posters carefully taking pictures and posting them, and offering ideas and solutions here. Whether I make it work or screw up it'll be fun since I didn't have to buy it in the first place. One more thing, it weighs 54 lbs!

If it doesn't work I'll still have the option to take the good mother board out of the 876 and swap it into the 906.

Last edited by audio4life; 08-14-2014 at 10:51 PM.
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post #864 of 868 Old 08-15-2014, 04:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audio4life View Post
I'm not sure why I did it. I already have an 876 that is going on six years old and performing flawlessly. But I acquired a 906 with a non functioning HDMI board(it was free!) and I'm drooling over the power supply(toroidal)! Many thanks to all of the meticulous posters carefully taking pictures and posting them, and offering ideas and solutions here. Whether I make it work or screw up it'll be fun since I didn't have to buy it in the first place. One more thing, it weighs 54 lbs!

If it doesn't work I'll still have the option to take the good mother board out of the 876 and swap it into the 906.
Let us know who it works out. I've got a 876 that's working fine too. But watching these threads if I need to make repairs to mine.

Last edited by eaayoung; 08-15-2014 at 04:44 AM.
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post #865 of 868 Old 08-16-2014, 09:11 AM
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Yesterday I spent 3 hours reading most of this thread and others. I did a lot of skimming for there were many posts simply thanking, and most with problems were from the 575 and 6xx series. Still some good background on what I'm looking at. It may be a little tough removing the daughter board. You need to maintain proper grounding of the board while working on it to avoid damaging sensitive chips. The black power wiring comes off a specific way, you push gently down on the white plastic clip and the wires are then loose to pull out. The ribbon wiring I haven't figured out yet. The Caps must be gently turned 1/16" either way, and not pulled, until they come away. This avoids pulling up some of the board circuitry.

(Edit: I successfully removed the white ribbon wire, it just pulls out, but I'd work at it slowly and brace the daughterboard so it doesn't flex too much. Also the board is connected with connectors, at least with the 876/906, to two other vertical boards on the one side. No one that I read mentioned there is a flap or tab on the top of these connectors that the daughterboard clips into. Lift the tab by carefully inserting a small screwdriver and wiggle the board. Once the one is loose, do the same with the other.)

After reading I replaced my 876 with the broken 906 to see how bad the HDMI board is. It seems pretty bad. No picture at all and no audio from hdmi. So I connected my Oppo 103 using analog and the unit does sound pretty sweet. I could only see the set up menu through the front display, but everything else seemed to be fine. On the inside things seemed good too, it only had a little dust. I took the hood off the 876 and compared them side by side. Pretty close to the same thing for the uneducated! The 906 has the ethernet module, 3 power supplies compared to 2 for the 876. Of course the back end has all gold RCA connects and speaker jacks compared to the 876 which is just stock. Onkyo makes some good stuff, too bad about the cap issue they had. One poster said the offending board came from Toshiba and not enough testing was done on it hence the plague of failures it caused.

I've ordered some capacitors and a better soldering iron than I have, but they won't arrive for several days. I'll post my results, keeping fingers crossed!

Last edited by audio4life; 08-17-2014 at 08:26 AM.
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post #866 of 868 Old 08-17-2014, 12:08 AM
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Hi Guys,

I've read the greater part of this (very) long, but informative thread.
And I've got a question.

I've got an 4 year old TX-SR707 and after a while (lets say, 2 hours on) the HDMI goes black.
In the beginning it was just a glitch, but the glitches got longer.
Until the point the image would not come back anymore.
Putting the receiver in stand-by for 10 minutes fixes the problem for a while.

I'm planning to replace the caps mentioned in post #1 with these:

http://www.conrad.nl/nl/yageo-cb010m...ks-445464.html

I've a little experience in solder small parts, but I am far from an expert.
Replacing 10 caps, I can do (I think).

So, should I give it a shot with this approach?
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post #867 of 868 Old 08-17-2014, 08:21 AM
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I'm no expert either, but it does seem doable if one is careful. That said, I wonder if the caps you've linked may be hard to work with? the two leads are hidden or folded under the black base. One fellow on youtube used your variety but he had to remove the base and extend the leads, but it did work for him. It does sound like you have the failing HDMI board. If you are convinced this is the case, I'd suggest not waiting until the unit goes completely dead on you, some other components might get damaged as well and render the daughter board damaged beyond our limited skills!

Also, did you read about the regulators on the board that might need a 1uf 50v non polarized cap soldered across them? There's 4 or so of them.
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post #868 of 868 Old 08-17-2014, 12:03 PM
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Looking for some info. I have a issue with my tx-nr709. It has been working great until this morning. We had a thunder storm and a crack of lighting went off real close by. Well i lost picture to the projector but still had sound. So i though no big deal i would just power everything off and back on. Well after that i was getting no HDMI signal message on my projector. I swapped cables and no luck. So i connected a 32 inch lcd tv and still nothing. I then swapped to the 2nd HDMI output and i had video and sound on the lcd tv. Reconnect to projector and there was nothing. I then took the onkyo out of the mix and went directly from xbox 360 to projector and had video. So i then connect onkyo back up and got no image from the xbox. I tried the fios cable box directly to projector and no luck. So i am believing that i am having a HDMI board failure. The received was bought as a refurb from BB 2 years or so ago so i believe it is out of warrenty. I have no problem doing a capacitor fix but i have not seen any info for the 709. Which caps would it be?

Thank you
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