How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 30 - AVS Forum
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post #871 of 881 Old 08-22-2014, 06:19 PM
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Well, I'm presently running a restored 906! I couldn't install the 6 1uf caps, but with the 13 100uf caps, it's up and running with no symptoms. It's a very nice sounding unit, I've replaced my 876 with it and plan on experimenting with the network capabilities. If one is to try it on a 709, I'd first try contacting Onkyo, they've announced a new warranty fix for many of these units.
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post #872 of 881 Old 09-01-2014, 06:20 PM
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onkyo tx-sr608

Hi I have an onkyo tx-sr608 with no sound coming from speakers when using hdmi. I feel I have the infamous hdmi board failure... Has anyone else with a sr608 tried this fix? I feel like I should go ahead and try it anyway...any suggestions?
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post #873 of 881 Old 09-07-2014, 08:06 PM
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Thanks to all who have added to this discussion. I was in the same boat a while ago with my '705. I had started the search for its replacement when I came across this thread. I decided to give it a shot. I figured I really had nothing to lose.

In December, I ordered 25 of these (not knowing in advance how many would be needed):

http://www.parts-express.com/100uf-1...itor--020-1704

I proceeded to replace all of the questionable caps mentioned at the beginning of the thread, just in case. I cleaned the innards of dust bunnies while I was in there as well. When I brought the unit home and re-connected all of the cables, it fired up and has been perfect ever since.

I replaced caps on both sides of the board. Before starting, I placed a small dot on each cap to be replaced, removed them and installed the replacement caps.
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post #874 of 881 Old 09-08-2014, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluefire529 View Post
Thanks to all who have added to this discussion. I was in the same boat a while ago with my '705. I had started the search for its replacement when I came across this thread. I decided to give it a shot. I figured I really had nothing to lose.

In December, I ordered 25 of these (not knowing in advance how many would be needed):

http://www.parts-express.com/100uf-1...itor--020-1704

I proceeded to replace all of the questionable caps mentioned at the beginning of the thread, just in case. I cleaned the innards of dust bunnies while I was in there as well. When I brought the unit home and re-connected all of the cables, it fired up and has been perfect ever since.

I replaced caps on both sides of the board. Before starting, I placed a small dot on each cap to be replaced, removed them and installed the replacement caps.
I have a '705 with what seems like the issue everyone has here. How exactly did you remove the HDMI board from the main board and case? For the life of me I just can't seem to figure out how to remove it.
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post #875 of 881 Old 09-08-2014, 05:30 AM
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I honestly do not remember the exact steps. I do recall having an issue removing the board and I think I just kept removing screws (even the ones that did not appear to need removing) and gently (yet forcefully!) pried the board loose. I believe there was also a bit of cursing the back panel due to the nearly zero-tolerance between it and the board. I seem to also recall a flathead screwdriver being involved with prying the board.

Just make sure to remove every screw around the board and maybe take care of a couple around the chassis. Gently move boards, cables, and chassis pieces and see where things are getting stuck. Attack that point and repeat until it is removed. Reassembly was easier than disassembly.

Good luck!
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post #876 of 881 Old 09-19-2014, 11:34 AM
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Long story short:

1. Dead HDMI Board (HT-R990 Receiver) right after 2 years of ownership
2. Goodwill repair offered by Onkyo. Unit sent to a service partner in Vienna.
3. Unit got back repaired (they probably just swapped the HDMI Board for another one)
4. It worked for approx. 6 months, today the HDMI board died again!
5. DIY Repair:

There are six 100μF 16V caps on this board. Four on one side (8912, 8915, 8918, 8921) and two on the other side (8901, 3104).
For replacement I used Panasonic FM series type A Low Impedance 100μF/25V 105°C caps.

Everything works fine now. Thank you very much for this thread!

Bottom line: Even though they tried, I'm done with this brand.
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Last edited by Quillin; 09-19-2014 at 11:41 AM.
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post #877 of 881 Old 09-19-2014, 12:48 PM
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Fellow Onkyo'ers....

I have a nr5007 that was sent in because of the hdmi problems. Got the receiver back about 93 or so days ago and now today, I'm starting to lose video for a second or two but not audio.

This is different than the original problem, and it's getting annoying now. Originally, I had the lost network card symptom, but this time it's different. Does it sound like cap problem?

Thanks in advanced.
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post #878 of 881 Old 09-21-2014, 01:32 PM
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Yes, according to your description it does sound like the cap problem. Is your unit still covered by warranty?
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post #879 of 881 Old 09-29-2014, 09:39 AM
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Question

Hello.

This tutorial has helped me to repair the 1080p defect (not pass trough 1080p, when active) with changing all 100µf caps.

But now no sound is output to the TV (via HDMI).
It "croaks" only. Irregular pulse forming rushing. Whether PCM or AC3.
But the sound from the AV receiver to the speakers is okay.

Is there also a solution for this problem?


Thanks,
Tobias Claren

Last edited by Tobias Claren; 09-29-2014 at 12:00 PM.
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post #880 of 881 Old 10-11-2014, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottie2 View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by Jon S

the 876/906 uses the HQV video processor... the HDMI board is a LOT more complex and expensive compared to the other models. I have asked if anyone has done any mods to see if they got it working but no response/luck.... guess it's because not many of the 876/906s were sold compared to the cheaper models...


After doing tons of research, I just managed to SUCCESSFULLY repair my TX-SR876 HDMI issues by applying the method and techniques discussed in this thread. I learned of the success people had repairing the 606 by replacing the 100uf caps, which appeared to be identical to the ones utilized on the 876 board. However, I could not find an example where someone had actually tried it on their 876. I figured I had nothing to lose by trying, since the HDMI inputs were all but useless. I had to wait 30 minutes before the receiver would recognize an HDMI signal. Most of the time i simply received a "NO SIGNAL" message.

There are 13 of the same 100uf 4V caps on the 876 HDMI board. 5 on the top and 8 on the bottom side.





I replaced each of the 100uf 4V capacitors with high-temp 100uF 16V caps I purchased from parts express.
Just wanted to confirm this repair worked for me, so a shout out to Scottie2 and CZtheDay, and audio4life who gave instructions of detaching the HDMI board from those pesky teo tabbed connectors. I noticed there was some leakage/corrosion on the underside capacitors, but not the top ones directly next to the HDMI ports. If your in a hurry, or on a super tight budget, might want to try just doing the 8 bottom side 100uf ones. When bending the new capacitors so they sat parallel to the HDMI board, I had one solder joint break! Be careful when bending the leads. If it goes bad again I will debate replacing all the HDMI board caps, or retire it to power amp duties and buy a cheap preamp
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post #881 of 881 Old 10-16-2014, 08:58 PM
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I just wanted to thank CZ_the_DAY, Scottie2, Spldart, and everyone else who contributed to the HDMI board capacitor repair.

My 6 year old TX-SR876 died a few weeks ago after a power outage. When the power came on, I had lost my sound and the picture was bad, as if it was losing its sync.

I found this thread, read and read and reread it, then bought the leaded 105C (high temp) 100uF caps and replaced the smds with them. It was actually easier than I thought it would be, and it took me less than an hour to replace them. I also installed a slimline 12v fan to the inside rear of the chassis, soldering its wires to the power terminals on the board with an inline plug for easy removal. It runs VERY quiet, and just gently moves the air near the HDMI and other boards in the rear of the unit. Should be enough, and certainly better than no fan at all.

To say I was astonished with the results would be an understatement. It now works like the day I bought it! And for less than $4 in parts!

I only replaced the 100uF caps, not any others, nor did I add any to the regulators. Mine start with "BA", and I read somewhere that these are okay without the additional caps. Anyway, I figured I could always add them if things weren't perfect.

An electronics engineer friend of mine said caps, over time and/or in a hot environment, can dry out. Then, one day you'll turn it on and it will fail. Onkyo really needs a small, quiet fan in the rear of the unit for the backplane daughter boards, as well as high temp caps.

Thanks again to everyone who contributed. Even though this thread is 4 years old, it is still pertinent.

Doug
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