How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 32 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #931 of 940 Old 04-20-2015, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by untouchablepl View Post
I need help. I was starting the repair for my HDMI board and while i was removing it i accidentally bent and brokee one of the capacitors. The Capacitor that I broke is 470 M85 on it. I have been looking everywhere and can't seem to find a replacement one. Can anyone place direct me as to where I can order one?
Thank You
Ha! I almost broke one of these today. The component is an inductor as noted above; you may have success to simply solder some lead wires onto it and put it back in place. Unless I'm mistaken, all that's inside that plastic cylinder is a ceramic coated wire of a specific diameter wrapped in a coil of a specific diameter a specific number of times... You could even make your own out of magnet wire from radio shack (I know I have in the past when I couldn't find an off-the-shelf inductor).
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post #932 of 940 Old 04-22-2015, 07:56 PM
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Got my SR606 as a refurb in Oct 2008 and other than one of the components inputs losing one channel within 6 months, has been working fine since then.

Now in the last month it has been giving me trouble with some audio issues. After correcting a loose center channel connection that was a global problem, I thought it might have been a problem with my Roku 3. But, after checking other HDMI inputs, it looks like a bad audio channel on just one of the 4 HDMI inputs. No issue with the other ports or OSD and no issue with video, except for some intermittent dropouts that I at first thought was a Roku issue.

Since I only have 3 HDMI devices, I am back in business now by moving the Roku to the unused input.
But, I probably have this repair coming up in my future, so appreciate the efforts of those who contributed to the DIYs
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post #933 of 940 Old 04-24-2015, 09:01 PM
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SUCCESS!

For the last year my 2010 TX-SR876 has been slow to handshake, requiring several minutes warm-up before it would successfully negotiate over HDMI but worked flawlessly otherwise. Oh, it would sometimes recognize my Comcast box on SD channels right away but failed on HD channels until several minutes of warm up. After reading much of this thread, I decided to try replacing the 100uF caps. The HDMI board has 5 of them on the top and 8 on the bottom. I ordered 20 Nichicon RS81C101MDN1JT caps from Newark.com. Based on some bulletins regarding the SR606 which should have little relevance to my 876, I decided to start by replacing C8609 (center bottom), although I planned to replace most if not all 13 100uF caps. After my embarrassingly primitive soldering skills nearly destroyed the board, I stopped after just replacing C8609 and tested the unit. IT WORKS! No warm up needed. Confirmed 3 times after several hours cold. Handshakes with all my components without delay. ALRIGHT!

Other than my poor soldering the only real challenge was the 5 wire power plug. I managed to avoid destroying that by reading that you had to press down on it to release the wires, documented in the first post.

Thanks to all the contributors to this thread!

Last edited by Bill Ball; 04-24-2015 at 09:15 PM.
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post #934 of 940 Old 04-25-2015, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball View Post
SUCCESS!

For the last year my 2010 TX-SR876 has been slow to handshake, requiring several minutes warm-up before it would successfully negotiate over HDMI but worked flawlessly otherwise. Oh, it would sometimes recognize my Comcast box on SD channels right away but failed on HD channels until several minutes of warm up. After reading much of this thread, I decided to try replacing the 100uF caps. The HDMI board has 5 of them on the top and 8 on the bottom. I ordered 20 Nichicon RS81C101MDN1JT caps from Newark.com. Based on some bulletins regarding the SR606 which should have little relevance to my 876, I decided to start by replacing C8609 (center bottom), although I planned to replace most if not all 13 100uF caps. After my embarrassingly primitive soldering skills nearly destroyed the board, I stopped after just replacing C8609 and tested the unit. IT WORKS! No warm up needed. Confirmed 3 times after several hours cold. Handshakes with all my components without delay. ALRIGHT!

Other than my poor soldering the only real challenge was the 5 wire power plug. I managed to avoid destroying that by reading that you had to press down on it to release the wires, documented in the first post.

Thanks to all the contributors to this thread!
Thanks for your post. I've got an 876 that I really babied. So found your fix interesting. How about posting on the 876 Owners Thread for other people that are having problems?

The "Official" Onkyo TX-SR876 Owners Thread

Last edited by eaayoung; 04-25-2015 at 06:55 PM.
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post #935 of 940 Old 04-25-2015, 01:20 PM
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post #936 of 940 Old 04-26-2015, 08:32 PM
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First, I would like to say, thank you, to all, for contributing all this info. I have a 706 that needs to be recapped. I have a question about how some of you guys are soldering the caps on the board. Are you guys pulling out the old legs and sticking the new legs through the board and soldering ? Or leaving them in and just soldering on top of the board ? I just watched the video on youtube and it looks like he just soldered on top ?

Also, I know this isn't the 706 thread but i see some those guys posted in here. It seems all the links are down for the 706 service manual, Can anyone help with that ? I'm wanting to order everything soon (Tonight) and i would like to see what other caps i could buy and replace. Thanks
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post #937 of 940 Old 04-27-2015, 08:29 PM
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TX-SR606 owner here.

So I finally gained some courage and replaced my dying 85C caps (installed a few years ago after the first HDMI death) with new 100uF/105C/50V caps.
The process itself was much less daunting than I had anticipated.

The problem now, is... all of my HDMI inputs have a severe blue tinge to them. Yikes!

How can I determine which cap is causing this to happen? Or do the caps need to "warm up" first?

edit: False alarm! I popped the board out, touched up the soldering a tiny bit, re-inserted it back into the 606 (you REALLY need to push on those three connectors on the side to get them fully seated), and I'm now getting full colour, full 1080p passthrough, and best of all, instant connections to all HDMI inputs when I power on the receiver. Looks like I can keep saving my money for at least a few more months.

Last edited by SomethingMore; 04-27-2015 at 09:55 PM.
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post #938 of 940 Old Yesterday, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SQL1 View Post
First, I would like to say, thank you, to all, for contributing all this info. I have a 706 that needs to be recapped. I have a question about how some of you guys are soldering the caps on the board. Are you guys pulling out the old legs and sticking the new legs through the board and soldering ? Or leaving them in and just soldering on top of the board ? I just watched the video on youtube and it looks like he just soldered on top ?

Also, I know this isn't the 706 thread but i see some those guys posted in here. It seems all the links are down for the 706 service manual, Can anyone help with that ? I'm wanting to order everything soon (Tonight) and i would like to see what other caps i could buy and replace. Thanks
Solder the legs onto the pad after the original caps are carefully removed so the pad is not disturbed. The video you watched was probably this one.

In the comments under this video, Jason Rood added this comment 2 months ago.

"I just used your method to repair an SR706. Thanks for the clear and concise guide. For others with the SR706, there are 12 total 100uF 4V Caps. I had only ordered 10, so I had to choose which ones to replace. Based on comments on another forum I started with the Caps on the underside of the board that were closest to being right over one of the heatsinks on the assumption that these were the caps that faced the most heat and probably failed first. These were the most inboard and forward of the Caps. Once I replaced these, the HDMI switch worked just fine, but I chose to replace all of the remaining 100uF 4V Caps on the underside of the board and 3 of the 5 on the top side of the board, because, well, I had the replacements and I didn't want to take the chance that the others would fail eventually. The 2 Caps I did not replace in case anyone else cares were each located right between 2 larger Capacitors and would have been a bit more difficult to replace. They were also farther away from any heat source."

Last edited by Bill Ball; Yesterday at 04:55 AM.
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post #939 of 940 Old Yesterday, 08:40 PM
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Thank you, for confirming this. Yes, that's the video i watched. Not having to desolder anything is a whole lot easier. I will tackle this over the weekend... My caps should be here friday. Thanks again.
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post #940 of 940 Unread Today, 05:49 AM
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Excellent video.
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