How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 32 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #931 of 957 Old 04-20-2015, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by untouchablepl View Post
I need help. I was starting the repair for my HDMI board and while i was removing it i accidentally bent and brokee one of the capacitors. The Capacitor that I broke is 470 M85 on it. I have been looking everywhere and can't seem to find a replacement one. Can anyone place direct me as to where I can order one?
Thank You
Ha! I almost broke one of these today. The component is an inductor as noted above; you may have success to simply solder some lead wires onto it and put it back in place. Unless I'm mistaken, all that's inside that plastic cylinder is a ceramic coated wire of a specific diameter wrapped in a coil of a specific diameter a specific number of times... You could even make your own out of magnet wire from radio shack (I know I have in the past when I couldn't find an off-the-shelf inductor).
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post #932 of 957 Old 04-22-2015, 07:56 PM
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Got my SR606 as a refurb in Oct 2008 and other than one of the components inputs losing one channel within 6 months, has been working fine since then.

Now in the last month it has been giving me trouble with some audio issues. After correcting a loose center channel connection that was a global problem, I thought it might have been a problem with my Roku 3. But, after checking other HDMI inputs, it looks like a bad audio channel on just one of the 4 HDMI inputs. No issue with the other ports or OSD and no issue with video, except for some intermittent dropouts that I at first thought was a Roku issue.

Since I only have 3 HDMI devices, I am back in business now by moving the Roku to the unused input.
But, I probably have this repair coming up in my future, so appreciate the efforts of those who contributed to the DIYs
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post #933 of 957 Old 04-24-2015, 09:01 PM
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SUCCESS!

For the last year my 2010 TX-SR876 has been slow to handshake, requiring several minutes warm-up before it would successfully negotiate over HDMI but worked flawlessly otherwise. Oh, it would sometimes recognize my Comcast box on SD channels right away but failed on HD channels until several minutes of warm up. After reading much of this thread, I decided to try replacing the 100uF caps. The HDMI board has 5 of them on the top and 8 on the bottom. I ordered 20 Nichicon RS81C101MDN1JT caps from Newark.com. Based on some bulletins regarding the SR606 which should have little relevance to my 876, I decided to start by replacing C8609 (center bottom), although I planned to replace most if not all 13 100uF caps. After my embarrassingly primitive soldering skills nearly destroyed the board, I stopped after just replacing C8609 and tested the unit. IT WORKS! No warm up needed. Confirmed 3 times after several hours cold. Handshakes with all my components without delay. ALRIGHT!

Other than my poor soldering the only real challenge was the 5 wire power plug. I managed to avoid destroying that by reading that you had to press down on it to release the wires, documented in the first post.

Thanks to all the contributors to this thread!

Last edited by Bill Ball; 04-24-2015 at 09:15 PM.
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post #934 of 957 Old 04-25-2015, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Ball View Post
SUCCESS!

For the last year my 2010 TX-SR876 has been slow to handshake, requiring several minutes warm-up before it would successfully negotiate over HDMI but worked flawlessly otherwise. Oh, it would sometimes recognize my Comcast box on SD channels right away but failed on HD channels until several minutes of warm up. After reading much of this thread, I decided to try replacing the 100uF caps. The HDMI board has 5 of them on the top and 8 on the bottom. I ordered 20 Nichicon RS81C101MDN1JT caps from Newark.com. Based on some bulletins regarding the SR606 which should have little relevance to my 876, I decided to start by replacing C8609 (center bottom), although I planned to replace most if not all 13 100uF caps. After my embarrassingly primitive soldering skills nearly destroyed the board, I stopped after just replacing C8609 and tested the unit. IT WORKS! No warm up needed. Confirmed 3 times after several hours cold. Handshakes with all my components without delay. ALRIGHT!

Other than my poor soldering the only real challenge was the 5 wire power plug. I managed to avoid destroying that by reading that you had to press down on it to release the wires, documented in the first post.

Thanks to all the contributors to this thread!
Thanks for your post. I've got an 876 that I really babied. So found your fix interesting. How about posting on the 876 Owners Thread for other people that are having problems?

The "Official" Onkyo TX-SR876 Owners Thread

Last edited by eaayoung; 04-25-2015 at 06:55 PM.
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post #935 of 957 Old 04-25-2015, 01:20 PM
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post #936 of 957 Old 04-26-2015, 08:32 PM
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First, I would like to say, thank you, to all, for contributing all this info. I have a 706 that needs to be recapped. I have a question about how some of you guys are soldering the caps on the board. Are you guys pulling out the old legs and sticking the new legs through the board and soldering ? Or leaving them in and just soldering on top of the board ? I just watched the video on youtube and it looks like he just soldered on top ?

Also, I know this isn't the 706 thread but i see some those guys posted in here. It seems all the links are down for the 706 service manual, Can anyone help with that ? I'm wanting to order everything soon (Tonight) and i would like to see what other caps i could buy and replace. Thanks
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post #937 of 957 Old 04-27-2015, 08:29 PM
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TX-SR606 owner here.

So I finally gained some courage and replaced my dying 85C caps (installed a few years ago after the first HDMI death) with new 100uF/105C/50V caps.
The process itself was much less daunting than I had anticipated.

The problem now, is... all of my HDMI inputs have a severe blue tinge to them. Yikes!

How can I determine which cap is causing this to happen? Or do the caps need to "warm up" first?

edit: False alarm! I popped the board out, touched up the soldering a tiny bit, re-inserted it back into the 606 (you REALLY need to push on those three connectors on the side to get them fully seated), and I'm now getting full colour, full 1080p passthrough, and best of all, instant connections to all HDMI inputs when I power on the receiver. Looks like I can keep saving my money for at least a few more months.

Last edited by SomethingMore; 04-27-2015 at 09:55 PM.
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post #938 of 957 Old 04-29-2015, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SQL1 View Post
First, I would like to say, thank you, to all, for contributing all this info. I have a 706 that needs to be recapped. I have a question about how some of you guys are soldering the caps on the board. Are you guys pulling out the old legs and sticking the new legs through the board and soldering ? Or leaving them in and just soldering on top of the board ? I just watched the video on youtube and it looks like he just soldered on top ?

Also, I know this isn't the 706 thread but i see some those guys posted in here. It seems all the links are down for the 706 service manual, Can anyone help with that ? I'm wanting to order everything soon (Tonight) and i would like to see what other caps i could buy and replace. Thanks
Solder the legs onto the pad after the original caps are carefully removed so the pad is not disturbed. The video you watched was probably this one.

In the comments under this video, Jason Rood added this comment 2 months ago.

"I just used your method to repair an SR706. Thanks for the clear and concise guide. For others with the SR706, there are 12 total 100uF 4V Caps. I had only ordered 10, so I had to choose which ones to replace. Based on comments on another forum I started with the Caps on the underside of the board that were closest to being right over one of the heatsinks on the assumption that these were the caps that faced the most heat and probably failed first. These were the most inboard and forward of the Caps. Once I replaced these, the HDMI switch worked just fine, but I chose to replace all of the remaining 100uF 4V Caps on the underside of the board and 3 of the 5 on the top side of the board, because, well, I had the replacements and I didn't want to take the chance that the others would fail eventually. The 2 Caps I did not replace in case anyone else cares were each located right between 2 larger Capacitors and would have been a bit more difficult to replace. They were also farther away from any heat source."

Last edited by Bill Ball; 04-29-2015 at 04:55 AM.
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post #939 of 957 Old 04-29-2015, 08:40 PM
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Thank you, for confirming this. Yes, that's the video i watched. Not having to desolder anything is a whole lot easier. I will tackle this over the weekend... My caps should be here friday. Thanks again.
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post #940 of 957 Old 04-30-2015, 05:49 AM
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Excellent video.
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post #941 of 957 Old 05-19-2015, 04:28 PM
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Mixed results here...

For some background info I have an Integra DTR 5.8, which looks to be based off the Onkyo TX-SR605. I was having similar issues with my receiver to those listed here, after using it one evening the TV started showing a "no signal" message on its HDMI input. It turned out the receiver's HDMI connections had stopped working entirely. A few days later the component video connections went out as well. I considered taking the receiver to a repair shop, but the repair estimate was in the $100-$200 range and not guaranteed to fix the issue.

Well, I tried repairs mentioned in this thread and it seemed to bring the HDMI and component video connections back from the dead, but not problem free. The receiver still can take a while to recognize an HDMI source and after several hours of use the HDMI indicator on the receiver's front display starts flickering on and off with the HDMI signal dropping out in conjunction with the flickering on the display.

For the actual repair, this is what I did on the HDMI board:
  • replaced all 9 the 100uf 4V capacitors
  • replaced all 3 of the 220uf 4V capacitors
  • replaced a 22uf 16V capacitor near the HDMI out
  • replaced a 4.7uf 50V capacitor on the bottom
  • added 4 of the 1uf filter capacitors to the regulators
  • I also had to replace a 22uf 4V capacitor on top that I removed it by mistake
I have pictures, but my post count is too low to link to them.

My guess is there's something else on the HDMI board that's out of whack, maybe one or more of the 470uf 16V or 22uf 4V capacitors, but I'm done with repairs for the time being. I had considered replacing all the capacitors on the HDMI board, but that would have been a lot of work and I didn't think it would be necessary. Anyway, I thought I'd post my results on the off chance it might help someone else out. I can list the part numbers I ordered if needed.
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post #942 of 957 Old 06-19-2015, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by kylejn View Post
Hey folks! Came across this thread after having HDMI problems with my HT-R670 that came with Onkyo's HT-S6200 HTiB (yeah, I know, I know - I was young and naive when I bought it). After browsing the thread, it looks like nobody had given this repair a shot on this specific model but I'm happy to report that despite being a complete novice when it comes to soldering (only did it a couple times before, and that was over a decade ago) it looks to have been a success!

There are five 100uF capacitors on the HDMI board, all on the bottom and none on the top. I've circled them in red - note that I'd already removed one when I took this photo. Sorry for potato quality of the photo.



I replaced the capacitors with 100uF, 35V, 105C-rated capacitors I picked up at Fry's.



As for solder, I went with Radio Shack's recommendation and used the following.



Here's a close-up of one of the board after removing one of the capacitors.



And a shot of one of the new capacitors soldered to the board. Not the cleanest solder but it's not too bad for a beginner, I think!



Here's the board with all the replacement capacitors installed.



And one final shot of the board back in the receiver.



I'll report back if things go sideways in the next few days. Hope this helps, and thanks to everybody in the thread who shared their experiences!
Hey folks! A year down the line and just updating to say that the receiver is still working great.
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post #943 of 957 Old 06-19-2015, 12:53 PM
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Has anyone had luck repairing VD ??????????? problem ? As per the Service Manual there is software and a jig used to communicate with the serial flash holding the Video firmware but after a quick look I can't find the associated firmware files.

Any have the flash file or care to dump it off their hdmi board ?
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post #944 of 957 Old 06-21-2015, 04:39 AM
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Yes I just fixed one this evening it had DSP ???????? and the VD was ??????? this was on a TX-SR606

I removed the chips off another board and did a firmware dump loaded the image on the new chip I had ordered for the DSP and re-flashed the old Video Chip and BAM!!!! Success I will now order some if the video flash chips to have on hand.

I have repaired a ton of these HDMI board and decided I was going to figure out a way to repair the boards with the bad firmware......

Oh by the way the Video flash chip was all zero on the bad board I did not have a new one of these so I re-flashed it and it is working great. Going to let it run for a few days and then eBay it! I purchased it just for this test.

Last edited by dolivas; 06-23-2015 at 11:54 PM.
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post #945 of 957 Old 06-21-2015, 05:57 AM
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Excellent news! This was Q8085 ? How about posting the bin file and /or setting up a way to sell a programmed chip to somebody like me
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post #946 of 957 Old 06-22-2015, 01:10 PM
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Wanted to report another success story, this time for an SR-705.

I've been having handshake issues with my SR-705 for the past year or more. At times it would take 5-10 minutes before the audio would finally pass through with the HDMI indicator blinking until connection was established.

As many have done with the newer models I replaced the 100Ufd 4V caps, 18 in all, on the HDMI board. Other than a bit of difficulty removing the board the repair was pretty straight forward. Completely cured the problem.

I also added a heatsink to both DSP chips and the video processor along with a small fan to cool the board & IC's

Thanks to all those who contributed such valuable information for pointing me in the right direction!

John
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post #947 of 957 Old 06-24-2015, 08:45 AM
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I finally managed to replace the 100uF capacitors (2 on top and 7 bottom).
As of now everything works except for the OSD. It just doesn't display on my TV. I get the video feed (full HD on all HDMIs) but no OSD. The display changes only on my receiver, there is no overlay on the TV.
I previously gave it for servicing to Onkyo (because of this issue). Before I gave it , I occasionally used to get the OSD after warmup. I opted not to replace the board as it was expensive and composite video was the only source that was causing issues. After I got it back I never got the OSD display. Not sure what they did. So for the past 2 yrs I have been using it through HDMI only until recently when even the HDMIs stopped. After replacing the 100uF caps , all the HDMIs work at Full HD resolution but I still have no OSD. Any guesses why?
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post #948 of 957 Old 06-24-2015, 10:13 AM
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Yes my guess would be that the Video EEPROM is corrupt or wiped completely.

While powered on press and hold the display button and then press standby/power button.

You are now looking at your Main firmware.

Now if you press your tone + button once your looking at your DSP firmware. Continue pressing till you get to VD. What does it report. That's your video firmware. If it's ??????????? then your eeprom is corrupted. Onkyo has provided no way to flash them and does not sell the IC. We are forced to go board level for this repair. If you get an actual firmware version for VD then it may be your Q8001 is damaged. That's your video processor.

FYI. Those firmware displays are short duration and the unit will return to normal display if you don't move quickly enough on the buttons.

I might be starting a repair service for these problems right now I have a fix for the DSP & VD eeproms this is for the TX-SR606 units I am thinking of working on the other models also if there is interest.

Last edited by dolivas; 06-28-2015 at 03:52 AM.
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post #949 of 957 Old 06-24-2015, 06:32 PM
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@dolivas I never shows VD.
When i press display+power, it shows the firmware version.

When i press Tone ,it shows the temperature
I press once more it shows
"Volh: . V"
It just switches between the above 2 displays. No VD.
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post #950 of 957 Old 06-24-2015, 08:54 PM
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You're doing it wrong. Don't press the "tone" button press the "+" button two buttons to the right of the tone button. Each press cycles you through the four firmwares but if you wait too long the display reverts.
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post #951 of 957 Old 06-25-2015, 07:25 PM
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It shows vd???????????. so i guess the firmware is missing. any possiblities of recovery?
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post #952 of 957 Old 06-26-2015, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jujojujo_2003 View Post
It shows vd???????????. so i guess the firmware is missing. any possiblities of recovery?
The is no way to field recover the firmware as Onkyo has never provided a way to do an infield update.

The only way to repair these is to flash a new chip and replace the old chip.

I have done a few but have had one after replacing the VD chip give a DSP????? error so I had to also reprogram and replace the DSP flash chip.

Right now I have a few more boards coming in with the same problems and will be doing repairs on them.

In you can please provide me your.

MAIN

DSP

VD

SR

Versions I am just trying to see what's out there.

Thanks,
Dean

Last edited by dolivas; 06-26-2015 at 12:17 PM.
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post #953 of 957 Old 06-27-2015, 09:04 PM
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Main: 1.02/08414A
DSP SR606: 08213A
VD: ?????????

I thought that you could flash the firmware through the optical link? Although i don't have the firmware files.
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post #954 of 957 Old 06-27-2015, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jujojujo_2003 View Post
Main: 1.02/08414A
DSP SR606: 08213A
VD: ?????????

I thought that you could flash the firmware through the optical link? Although i don't have the firmware files.
Nope Onkyo never released the firmware.

Only way I know to do it is reprogram and replace the flash chip. I also think that C8070 might be the cause for the flash chip getting wiped.

I repaired two more boards this evening and both has the VD ?????? and on both boards the C8070 cap was reading open.

C8070 is the main filter cap for the VD serial flash chip.
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post #955 of 957 Old 06-27-2015, 11:43 PM
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So where is this cap? What should I replace it with?
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post #956 of 957 Old 06-27-2015, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jujojujo_2003 View Post
So where is this cap? What should I replace it with?
It's on the bottom side of the board below the flash chip.

It's a 22uF 4v cap replacing the cap is not going to fix the flash chip problem I am only looking at what might be causing the problem in the first place.

I am replacing the cap as part of the repairs I am doing.
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post #957 of 957 Old 06-28-2015, 01:19 AM
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Okay! let me know if you get any leads.
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