How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 34 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #991 of 1056 Old 01-24-2016, 09:50 PM
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Hi guys,

I looked up this issue many months ago and purchased new 100u caps. Due to many other projects it was put on hold. Today I cracked it open and replaced the caps.

Now I can get video - at least for a minute. The cable is plugged into DVD/BR but the selector button on the front needs to be on GAME input. WTF!!?? So I had signal and figured I had the cables switched in the back. When I unplugged the cable from the DVD/BR port I lost audio and video. I plugged it back in but got neither. When I unplug the HDMI OUT cable I will get audio from the DVD/BR input (again, with the selector set to GAME). I let it all cool down and tried again and got video but accidentally shut off the BR. When I fired it back up I was back to no video, no audio until I unplugged the HDMI Out and then I would get audio.

Seems the problem I have is not corrected - at least completely - by the replacement of the caps. It sounded so promising, too!!! And then to find this thread today with the information about the warranty being extended - I totally screwed myself today b/c I bought this in 2009 and I'm sure it was covered! UGH!!!

Can anyone help?
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post #992 of 1056 Old 01-28-2016, 01:47 PM
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Hey everyone! I hope this thread is still kicking.

I own a 606 with this problem and plan on tackling it this weekend. One question, is it safe to use 100uf 50v caps? I have some extras lying around so thought I would use them.

I tried looking through the thread to see if anyone ever used 50v and didn't find anything. Is it safe or not recommended?

Thanks in advance!
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post #993 of 1056 Old 01-28-2016, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olotas View Post
Hey everyone! I hope this thread is still kicking.

I own a 606 with this problem and plan on tackling it this weekend. One question, is it safe to use 100uf 50v caps? I have some extras lying around so thought I would use them.

I tried looking through the thread to see if anyone ever used 50v and didn't find anything. Is it safe or not recommended?

Thanks in advance!
Yes it is safe, you won't have any issues.
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post #994 of 1056 Old 01-29-2016, 06:57 PM
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Yes it is safe, you won't have any issues.
Many thanks dashpuppy!
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post #995 of 1056 Old 02-01-2016, 09:21 AM
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@dolivas , @dashpuppy , anyone else...

Long time lurker... I have followed this thread for a couple of years.. Have an Onkyo TX-NR905 that has been having HDMI issues just like the TX-SR606. About a year ago I replaced all the 15 or so caps originally described as the cause of HDMI going out or unresponsive.

Now, a year later and after the system has been working great, I'm beginning to see HDMI drop outs of a few seconds, sound still on, and then picture comes back. I suspect that the issue is now the other several/numerous caps that @dolivas referenced in a post a page back.

So I'm considering cracking it open and replacing the rest of the troublesome caps. Does someone have, or can anyone recommend the list of caps to be replaced in addition to the main caps circled in red in several images floating around? Better yet, if you have another image with the other caps indicated, that would be enough.

TIA for any help or suggestions. I'd really like to keep the 905 going for now, at least until the projectors catch up with 4K video and the price comes down.

Last edited by Wisiwyg; 02-01-2016 at 09:42 AM.
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post #996 of 1056 Old 02-07-2016, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dolivas View Post
Yes I just fixed one this evening it had DSP ???????? and the VD was ??????? this was on a TX-SR606

I removed the chips off another board and did a firmware dump loaded the image on the new chip I had ordered for the DSP and re-flashed the old Video Chip and BAM!!!! Success I will now order some if the video flash chips to have on hand.

I have repaired a ton of these HDMI board and decided I was going to figure out a way to repair the boards with the bad firmware......

Oh by the way the Video flash chip was all zero on the bad board I did not have a new one of these so I re-flashed it and it is working great. Going to let it run for a few days and then eBay it! I purchased it just for this test.
Dolivas,

is there any chance to get a daughterboard of tx-sr605? I'm from Brazil and I tried everything but nothing changed. Even the VD code is ?????? could you help me with that. I thinking to buy a used 605 just because the hdmi board.

thank's

Marcelo
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post #997 of 1056 Old 02-08-2016, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wisiwyg View Post
@dolivas , @dashpuppy , anyone else...

Long time lurker... I have followed this thread for a couple of years.. Have an Onkyo TX-NR905 that has been having HDMI issues just like the TX-SR606. About a year ago I replaced all the 15 or so caps originally described as the cause of HDMI going out or unresponsive.

Now, a year later and after the system has been working great, I'm beginning to see HDMI drop outs of a few seconds, sound still on, and then picture comes back. I suspect that the issue is now the other several/numerous caps that @dolivas referenced in a post a page back.

So I'm considering cracking it open and replacing the rest of the troublesome caps. Does someone have, or can anyone recommend the list of caps to be replaced in addition to the main caps circled in red in several images floating around? Better yet, if you have another image with the other caps indicated, that would be enough.

TIA for any help or suggestions. I'd really like to keep the 905 going for now, at least until the projectors catch up with 4K video and the price comes down.
The problem is, all the electrolytic caps get baked dry by the high temperatures on the board. Eventually, all circuits that have any sensitivity at all to baked capacitors with low storage capacity will eventually begin to malfunction.

The best course of action would be to replace all the aluminum caps on the HDMI but by the time more start failing than the usual suspects, you might also be seeing some issues related to other boards on that hot backplane.

If you insist on punishing yourself, you can check all the IC numbers on as many boards you can get to and change the switching regulator output filter cap(s) for all of them. You can find out which caps are on the regulator with an ohmmeter. You might have to refer to existing documentation on-line if the regulators have Onkyo-specific part numbers.

That still might not fix it though, but it is a start. It might just be that the caps you already replaced failed again. Just be aware that the more often you remove that board, the more chances you have to zap something with ESD or damage a connector or lift a pad.

Be sure you ground yourself at least to the chassis before you touch the insides and also, if you see any place on your HDMI that says 'short to remove' or some such, be sure to solder a jumper across those terminals before removing the board, or you might blow something (the upscaler/on-screen menu seems like it sometimes dies and does not come back with cap change so that might be why, not sure but if it gives you explicit ESD warning probably good idea to comply - I did not know about this on the 606 I repaired and the OSD/upscaler did not recover, but the 706 in process, I shorted before removing the board).

Also be sure to depress the spring clip before removing the ribbon cable, or you will destroy cable and/or connector.

Aside from that, you really need an insider who knows the artwork, or a schematic and oscilloscope, to really identify the actual culprit(s) or at least the most likely suspects. Also, by the time you get through replacing all those caps at retail prices, you might have already invested enough in parts and labor to justify replacing the receiver instead, especially if after all that work it STILL does not function.
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post #998 of 1056 Old 02-08-2016, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcsax View Post
Dolivas,

is there any chance to get a daughterboard of tx-sr605? I'm from Brazil and I tried everything but nothing changed. Even the VD code is ?????? could you help me with that. I thinking to buy a used 605 just because the hdmi board.

thank's

Marcelo
The 805 is upscale from the same vintage and has some known HDMI functional issues (in addition to the capacitors baking dry) that require a replacement board to fix properly. Might be that the 605 has the same issues. The 805 I had would not produce any audio at all, even from the analog inputs, and the symptom of this failure is no audio at all so I returned it to its original owner instead of repairing it.
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post #999 of 1056 Old 02-08-2016, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olotas View Post
Hey everyone! I hope this thread is still kicking.

I own a 606 with this problem and plan on tackling it this weekend. One question, is it safe to use 100uf 50v caps? I have some extras lying around so thought I would use them.

I tried looking through the thread to see if anyone ever used 50v and didn't find anything. Is it safe or not recommended?

Thanks in advance!
I used ancient (1960's era) electrolytic capacitors from my father's old junk box to repair a failed 606, and aside from the upscaler/OSD that never recovered, it has been going strong for years now.

The capacitors I used were 25V but physically, they are the size of 50V or higher voltage caps of today, about the same as a typical tootsie roll bite-size. They are large enough that it is difficult to fit them in the space but they did fit OK (barely) and being axial caps clipped off a through-hole PCB, they needed long jumper leads on them. I used plain wirewrap gauge about 1" on either end and it is working fine so it is obviously not inductance related failure.

I suspect a few potential reasons that might explain why that receiver is still working despite the high temps and being installed in a completely enclosed cubby with glass door on the front (we leave the door open when the receiver is in use but it is a very tight fit with the center speaker on the top shelf and just barely any breathing room for the receiver). One is, the capacitors are large enough that a substantial portion of the capacitor is far from the surface of the hot board.

Another is, despite the increasingly high voltage ratings per unit size of modern surface mount capacitors, I am skeptical that the dielectric is actually that much stronger given the high failure rate of these particular caps. In any case, capacitors that might be as old as me (or older) e.g. 50+ are outperforming the original equipment and that leads me to raise eyebrows at the whole 'planned obsolescence' thing where the marketing department strips out all the safety margin with a 'let them eat cake' attitude, or at least 'let them fry an egg on it'.
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post #1000 of 1056 Old 02-08-2016, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyTime View Post
Hi guys,

I looked up this issue many months ago and purchased new 100u caps. Due to many other projects it was put on hold. Today I cracked it open and replaced the caps.

Now I can get video - at least for a minute. The cable is plugged into DVD/BR but the selector button on the front needs to be on GAME input. WTF!!?? So I had signal and figured I had the cables switched in the back. When I unplugged the cable from the DVD/BR port I lost audio and video. I plugged it back in but got neither. When I unplug the HDMI OUT cable I will get audio from the DVD/BR input (again, with the selector set to GAME). I let it all cool down and tried again and got video but accidentally shut off the BR. When I fired it back up I was back to no video, no audio until I unplugged the HDMI Out and then I would get audio.

Seems the problem I have is not corrected - at least completely - by the replacement of the caps. It sounded so promising, too!!! And then to find this thread today with the information about the warranty being extended - I totally screwed myself today b/c I bought this in 2009 and I'm sure it was covered! UGH!!!

Can anyone help?
PS some things you might try first:

Do the hardware reset salute (forgot what it is for your model, look it up) and check your input configuration in the setup menu. Some of these Onkyo receivers allow remapping the HDMI inputs via setup menu. Also, when using HDMI with assigned optical audio input together, the receiver might attempt to locate the audio automatically and fail if it has difficulty interpreting the stream for some reason (like a random bit error on a marginal interface). Maybe the switching logic is getting confused and needs a kick in the head with a three-finger salute. Be sure to re-run the auto setup routine after the reset too because all your distance, level, and crossover settings will be blown away (the receiver should prompt you to do so).
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post #1001 of 1056 Old 02-14-2016, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by CherylJosie View Post
The problem is, all the electrolytic caps get baked dry by the high temperatures on the board. Eventually, all circuits that have any sensitivity at all to baked capacitors with low storage capacity will eventually begin to malfunction.

The best course of action would be to replace all the aluminum caps on the HDMI but by the time more start failing than the usual suspects, you might also be seeing some issues related to other boards on that hot backplane.
...
Aside from that, you really need an insider who knows the artwork, or a schematic and oscilloscope, to really identify the actual culprit(s) or at least the most likely suspects. Also, by the time you get through replacing all those caps at retail prices, you might have already invested enough in parts and labor to justify replacing the receiver instead, especially if after all that work it STILL does not function.
Totally agree with you... I'm planning on doing the work myself, so cost isn't the big issue. Since the time I replaced the usual suspects I've been run a cooling fan on the top of the unit to draw out heat, hoping the rest of the caps would hover where they were. But there's probably more on the HDMI board that were going but limped along until now.

I really like the old Onkyo TX-NR905 - when its working. When its not working it is a PITA, image going out in the middle of a movie. But, like I said earlker, I'm going to try to get it to last long enough that the 4K projectors come down in price and I'll upgrade the receiver and proj at the same time.

So if anyone can point me to a schematic or someone has a short list of caps/components to replace I'll start there first.
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post #1002 of 1056 Old 02-19-2016, 01:02 PM
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Hello,
I got an Onkyo TX-SR508. Since yesterday there is no sound and no picture over HDMI. I'd like to repair it as suggested here, but I do not know which capacitors need to be replaced. How can I figure out the ones that are broken?

Many thanks..
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post #1003 of 1056 Old 02-19-2016, 02:46 PM
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I'd doubt your problem is capacitors, I think these models had a problem wirh their bga ic's. Maybe someone else will chime in for you.
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post #1004 of 1056 Old 02-20-2016, 12:06 AM
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Thank you for the fast answer. Do you think that a replacement of the HDMI-board will may solve the problem?
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post #1005 of 1056 Old 02-20-2016, 04:18 AM
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I would check the fuses inside as well. It may be a blown fuse. Have you touched the inside, for example the wires/connections? Was the SR508 working fine right before you lost video and audio on hdmi or slowing acting up (longer to sync?)? Also, try hooking up a YPbPr component cable to it and a optical audio cable if your receiver have the inputs. See if you get any audio, even with the hdmi output not working.
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post #1006 of 1056 Old 02-20-2016, 05:33 AM
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Hi,

Nope, I haven't opened up the AVR. I contacted Onkyo for further input (I' ve read sth. about a prolonged warranty for some Onkyo devices) - but nothing yet.
Analog audio and optical are working fine. "Only" HDMI in/output seems defective. Device worked perfectly before the defect occured - no slowing or other faults. Haven't thought about a fuse for the HDMI-board. Will check it out next week.

Thank you very much - further help kindly appreciated...
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post #1007 of 1056 Old 02-20-2016, 07:30 AM
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Go to Onkyo's site and input your model and serial number, you will receive a result stating if your model is eligible or not. Even if you are under warranty, if you are not afraid to, go ahead and open up the receiver and check the fuses. If it's just a fuse, I would replace it myself, rather than send it out. Of course, in normal operations, the fuse(s) should not blow unless you have shorted something by touching something inside or outside.

Good luck and looking forward to your findings.
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post #1008 of 1056 Old 02-22-2016, 01:00 AM
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Hi,

Thank you for the input.
I found three fuses. All seemed allright. So, in the end I think the HDMI-board needs to be replaced. Actually these are not easy to purchase - I don't know if 100€ (at least) for repairing a 6y old device is very reasonable. Do you have any suggestions for a shop, where I can buy such a board (BCHDM-0401) fairly cheap?

Kind regards
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post #1009 of 1056 Old 02-22-2016, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ignatius Käse View Post
Hello,
I got an Onkyo TX-SR508. Since yesterday there is no sound and no picture over HDMI. I'd like to repair it as suggested here, but I do not know which capacitors need to be replaced. How can I figure out the ones that are broken?

Many thanks..
If the receiver takes a long time to switch inputs that is probably a capacitors problem. If the receiver gives no sound with a greyed out network options that is likely the HDMI board. But check the Onkyo site to see if your receiver has the extended warranty program.

Here's the link to Onkyo's extended warranty repair program:

https://repair.onkyousa.com/na/

Last edited by eaayoung; 02-22-2016 at 06:09 AM.
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post #1010 of 1056 Old 02-22-2016, 08:42 AM
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Hi,

Nope. I'm afraid that my receiver is not covered by the extended warranty repair program. Switchen of inputs is not affacted and works as fast as always. At the moment I'm using the optical input instead of the HDMI for the sound and conneced the picture-source directly via HDMI to the TV - works without any probelm.
It is really frustrating, that these damn HDMI-boards are so expensive.

Regards..
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post #1011 of 1056 Old 02-22-2016, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Ignatius Käse View Post
Hi,

Nope. I'm afraid that my receiver is not covered by the extended warranty repair program. Switchen of inputs is not affacted and works as fast as always. At the moment I'm using the optical input instead of the HDMI for the sound and conneced the picture-source directly via HDMI to the TV - works without any probelm.
It is really frustrating, that these damn HDMI-boards are so expensive.

Regards..
Yep. I've got an 876 that is still working. I have it stored on top of the cabinet due to all the problems associated with these receivers. No switching problems so far. Probably just a matter of time before it eventually fails.
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post #1012 of 1056 Old 03-21-2016, 04:33 AM
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On-Screen and RCA / Composite video not working

I have seen several DIY videos on youtube for fixing "HDMI" problem on the Onkyo TX-SR607 where replacing 5 capacitors on the HDMI board.

My problem is that the On-Screen menu (after entering Setup) is not working, nor the RCA video input sources. Only HDMI in- and outputs are working good.

I would like to try this repair with replacing the capacitors, but would like someone from this forum to confirm that this is the right repair method.

Thanks in advance,
Mikael
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post #1013 of 1056 Old 03-22-2016, 04:06 PM
 
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Well I'm on to my second free Onkyo with HDMI board issues. The first one was the mighty 906, which I later sold for cheap. Now I've got a dead 606, and I'm almost ready to grab the soldering iron. It'll take the exact same caps, and I bought 30 of each the first time so this one will cost me nothing at all. I think I'll keep this one for the basement!
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post #1014 of 1056 Old 03-22-2016, 07:23 PM
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I just replaced the 13 caps on my SR876 HDMI board, with 100uf 16v caps. The unit functions the same as before, (No Signal) until it gets warm, and cycling power to get it to pickup a signal.
Does anyone know what else I can do to get this to work correctly. I have seen caps added to voltage regulators on other HDMI boards, but have not found the instructions for the 876.
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post #1015 of 1056 Old 03-22-2016, 07:31 PM
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I just replaced all the caps on my 906, HDMI didn't work before now it does, BUT now no sound out of anything.
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post #1016 of 1056 Old 03-23-2016, 02:42 PM
 
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Originally Posted by russrm View Post
I just replaced the 13 caps on my SR876 HDMI board, with 100uf 16v caps. The unit functions the same as before, (No Signal) until it gets warm, and cycling power to get it to pickup a signal.
Does anyone know what else I can do to get this to work correctly. I have seen caps added to voltage regulators on other HDMI boards, but have not found the instructions for the 876.
I repaired a 906(full success) capping the regulators, and the 876 and PR885 all have the same HDMI board as the 906. I searched but can't find the photos of the 885 that I used to cap the regulators, but on page 11 of this thread, near the top, there are good pics of this board. The regulators in question have a number that starts with 480... on them and they are Toshiba. there are 3 of them on each side of the board for a total of 6. They are the same size and style, and have 2 legs with a third stub in between. If you search your board carefully, you'll be able to find them using these parameters.

It's been said that these cap repairs only fix about 75% of the broken units, hopefully you are in that 75%! Mine worked for a while with just the 13 caps installed, then failed again within a couple of weeks, but it was fine after the additional caps were installed.

Edit: If you are going to solder the caps on the regulators, do it as follows: As you face a regulator on the leg side, solder one side of the cap to the right leg, and the other to the other end of the regulator. These caps should not have a + and -, no polarity to observe.

Last edited by audio4life; 03-23-2016 at 03:53 PM.
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post #1017 of 1056 Old 03-23-2016, 02:43 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dashpuppy View Post
I just replaced all the caps on my 906, HDMI didn't work before now it does, BUT now no sound out of anything.
Just a guess, but I'd check all of your fuses, there are at least a few, and the connections to your board.
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post #1018 of 1056 Old 03-23-2016, 08:37 PM
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Thanks for the info Audio4life.
I checked my HDMI board and it has the BA18 and not the 480 regulators installed. Do you know if the fix you mentioned will work on these regulators?
Also did you use 1uf 50v non polar caps?
Thanks again for your help.
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post #1019 of 1056 Old 03-23-2016, 10:05 PM
 
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That's what I used. What I've read is that the 480 regulators stabilize with these caps, and that the others may not. At this point if I were you I'd give it a shot. It's not like it will get any worse, right?

The 606 I've been working on has the 480's, and she's up and running like a champ. The HDMI is flawless and I'm impressed with this little unit. You can see they cut some corners on manufacturing, but still it has great bang for buck…until the HDMI board goes bang. I was having trouble soldering the caps onto the regulators, my iron has a sharp tip so it wouldn't transfer enough heat. I cut and filed the tip off at an angle and now it delivers a little too much, but it gets the solder to flow nicely.

I've started to scan craigslist for dead Onkyos on the cheap now! One guy was selling an 806 with dead HDMI function, and he was asking $300!
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post #1020 of 1056 Old 03-24-2016, 08:59 AM
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Once again Audio4life, Thank you.

I added the 6 1uf 50v caps to the regulators as you suggested, and my 876 works like a charm.
I get a No Signal message for about 6 sec, then it picks up the input normally. No more warming up and power cycling.

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