How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 36 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #1051 of 1076 Old 05-18-2016, 09:40 PM
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Here's the link to Onkyo Extended Warranty Program:

http://www.eu.onkyo.com/en/customer-...am-118747.html
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post #1052 of 1076 Old 05-19-2016, 02:19 PM
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IT IS ALIVE!!!!! sorry for vertical, just wanted to show TV and receiver. HDMI blinked with no video for like 5 seconds on initial startup and I heald my breath, no further issues on any inputs. They switch fast with no delay either! TXSR607 daughterboard was completely different having all 100uf resistors on bottom. Works great despite my questionable soldering! OSD is even working. haha

wife works tomorrow night so ill dial in all my settings again. im factory default now.


Panny TC-55GT50, PS3, ROKU3, Onkyo TX-SR607, Klipsch RW-12D, (F) Monitor 60 series II's, (C) CS2 Series II
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post #1053 of 1076 Old 05-19-2016, 03:33 PM
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Excellent job and congratulations. Also, way to prove me wrong
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post #1054 of 1076 Old 05-19-2016, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMartell View Post
Excellent job and congratulations. Also, way to prove me wrong
You did make me nervous when you mentioned the 607 not being the same issue, no worries. Just glad it's fixed, really like the receiver and hoping it stays serviceable for a while
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post #1055 of 1076 Old 05-30-2016, 04:51 PM
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Thanks to this thread and some other online cross references, I've extended the life of my 606. My soldering won't win any beauty prizes, but it works and that is what matters.

I'm at the point where I'm ticked that capacitor issues seem to be so commonplace. Why use the cheap ones, when for $.25 or so per cap, a better cap can be spec'd?

In the last 6 months, I've replaced caps on:

LG DVR (kept rebooting)
Samsung TV - caps on PSupply
Pioneer DVD recorder - wouldn't boot
Onkyo amp - cheap caps on HDMI board

When you spend $2000 on a TV, you'd expect quality internals. It's not like it was an Insignia TV.
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post #1056 of 1076 Old 06-20-2016, 05:57 PM
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Anyone by chance have the caps listing for a Onkyo PR-SC885 HDMI card?
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post #1057 of 1076 Old 08-24-2016, 08:59 PM
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So it seems the HDMI board in my TX NR-509 crapped out for the second time. Last time it was replaced by Onkyo under warranty, but this time I'm not sure I'll be as lucky. I checked my serial # on Onkyo's site for the recall, but according to it my unit isn't covered, which is BS since it has the same problem all other units have. I pulled the HDMI board out and I don't see/smell anything wrong with the caps but I'm going to give changing them a shot tomorrow.

I see everyone's only replacing the 100uf caps. Any reason? Is it worth the trouble to go and change every cap on the board? Is the problem almost always to be the caps on the bottom of the board?

Same symptoms that most people seem to be having. No HDMI video, and the same as last time, it happened out of nowhere. Just didn't work when I turned it on one day.
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post #1058 of 1076 Old 08-24-2016, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exojam View Post
Anyone by chance have the caps listing for a Onkyo PR-SC885 HDMI card?
The PR-SC885 HDMI caps are as follows:

(TOP - 100uF)
C8036
C8046
C8086
C8096
C???? (BY Q8596)

(BOTTOM - 100uF)
C8725
C8875
C8609
C8843
C8801
C8837
C8821
C8836

(TOP - 220uF)
C8709
C8902
C???? (BY L8903)

(BOTTOM - 220uF)
C8493
C8443
C8914
C???? (BY R8937)

Hope this helps!
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post #1059 of 1076 Old 08-25-2016, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBacksFan5205 View Post
The PR-SC885 HDMI caps are as follows:

(TOP - 100uF)
C8036
C8046
C8086
C8096
C???? (BY Q8596)

(BOTTOM - 100uF)
C8725
C8875
C8609
C8843
C8801
C8837
C8821
C8836

(TOP - 220uF)
C8709
C8902
C???? (BY L8903)

(BOTTOM - 220uF)
C8493
C8443
C8914
C???? (BY R8937)

Hope this helps!
Thank you.
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post #1060 of 1076 Old 09-02-2016, 01:55 PM
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Hello.
I have Onkyo R960 receiver, it was working till one day while working, it froze and the sound stopped, ever since then when i press the power button the standby led turns off, and i keep hearing the relaying engaging and disengaging after 1 second.The standby led is on when the power cord is connected. When i press the power button or any other source selector button, the relay keeps engaging and disengaging till i press power button again to turn it off.
Could it be an hdmi board failure??
Thanks
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post #1061 of 1076 Old 09-08-2016, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by habdelbar View Post
Hello.
I have Onkyo R960 receiver, it was working till one day while working, it froze and the sound stopped, ever since then when i press the power button the standby led turns off, and i keep hearing the relaying engaging and disengaging after 1 second.The standby led is on when the power cord is connected. When i press the power button or any other source selector button, the relay keeps engaging and disengaging till i press power button again to turn it off.
Could it be an hdmi board failure??
Thanks
I have an Integra DTR 7.8 and it is doing the same as many others reporting. It will play for 90 minutes and video dies but audio continues. From reading this thread I will replace the caps as described and hope this fixes the problem. One question i do have before doing so is should I replace all the caps or just certain ones.

Thanks for anyones guidance!!

WOOLFMAN

Woolfman’sTheater Build #2

WOOLFMAN THEATER Construction thread
One small job for mankind, one hell of a build for 1 guy
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post #1062 of 1076 Old 09-17-2016, 01:32 AM
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hey everyone,

just joined as i wanted to thank you all for sharing your experiences with these faulty onkyo receivers,
thanks to your taking the time to share this information,
i have succesfully repaired my tx-sr876
by replacing all 13 of the 100uf caps on the hdmi board, (used 100u 16v)

I had no display showing through hdmi, although the sound still worked for radio etc,
took some pics as i found it hard to find them for this particular model,
have included them at the end of this post,

the display is now outputting 1080 again, and works great,
the only problem i still have is that only the left and right speaker icons display letters in them (any ideas?)
the rest are there and work, just no letters show up,
unlike my other amp the tx sr707 which i re balled succesfully in the home oven on advice from youtube and here also...

I have one more amp a tx sr578 which has no sound output,
I replaced both caps 100uf on hdmi board but still no sound,
so if anyone knows or has any idea on how to fix this,
I would be most gratefull,

thanks again to all who made this possible, i am no electronic whizz, but with your help all is good again in our theatre,,
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post #1063 of 1076 Old 10-05-2016, 01:48 PM
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Hi,

I have a TX-SR576 which has been fine for years audio-wise - i have never used the hdmi.

I feed my pc output via optical in to the receiver for DD and DTS playback.

Recently I get pops and clicks when playing the DD and DTS encoded material plus sometimes I get no sound or just static on every input until I do a factory reset.

Anyone have similar symptoms?

Is the digital audio processing done on this HDMI board even if you don't use HDMI and could be the cause of this?

Thanks!
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post #1064 of 1076 Old 10-08-2016, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtartn View Post
Hi,

I have a TX-SR576 which has been fine for years audio-wise - i have never used the hdmi.

I feed my pc output via optical in to the receiver for DD and DTS playback.

Recently I get pops and clicks when playing the DD and DTS encoded material plus sometimes I get no sound or just static on every input until I do a factory reset.

Anyone have similar symptoms?

Is the digital audio processing done on this HDMI board even if you don't use HDMI and could be the cause of this?

Thanks!
The optical TOSLINK SPDIF, and the coaxial SPDIF, seem to be on the vertical backplane board, in a line with the digital audio input connectors to one side of the rear panel. The HDMI and DSP and maybe the A/D video upscaler seem to all be on the top horizontal HDMI board in a line with the HDMI connectors. HDMI failure mode should not be causing any digital audio issues through SPDIF, but it might be causing DSP failures on the HDMI board.

Some of the older receivers from several manufacturers have repeatable or semi-repeatable 'gunshot' noise failure mode where particular passages in a particular program generate random noise burst that can be very loud and whitish-bright sounding. I never did see any documentation online about what the actual root cause of that issue was. My TX-SR706 rarely had this gunshot noise failure and though it seemed to cluster around certain passages of particular programs it was not 100% repeatable. That receiver was also having intermittent HDMI failures when I obtained it, so the two issues may be related. I was using only HDMI at the time so I never did check if that issue happened through TOSLINK or coaxial audio. I upgraded it to TX-NR929 instead.

Apparently some other manufacturers had the same gunshot noise issue even without Onkyo's particular HDMI board capacitor failure.

I have noticed that some of my Onkyo receivers tend to go all weird and need hard reset if I accidentally disconnect the power cord while they are in setup menu. I have also seen them sometimes forget that they have a center speaker if I shut it off in setup temporarily to try out virtual center, necessitating a hard reset or at least recalibration to turn the center speaker back on. In one case my TX-SR706 lost all function on the tone controls except for the front l/r after I temporarily disabled everything but stereo speakers in the setup and it needed recalibration to recover. I also have a TX-NR609 that puts out full spectrum from the subwoofer output but it is at my daughter's place and I have not tried a hard reset yet to see if it fixes that issue. Her system is low priority since she rarely uses it.

All of these receivers are malfunctioning on the HDMI. My estimation: Onkyo HDMI failure rate over 5 years is probably 100% or close to it, particularly if the operating environment is not temperature controlled and Audyssey or other intensive DSP is dissipating lots of power to bake the life out of the capacitors.

I have never seen one of them getting frequently corrupted and requiring hard reset to recover from total audio failure though. The fact that yours is failing dramatically like this is not a good sign. It could be that the capacitors are so bad that more than just the HDMI is susceptible to the power supply ripple now, or it could be a totally unrelated failure too.

EDIT: another possible explanation, among many:

http://repairalmostanything.com/thre...epair-tutorial

Last edited by CherylJosie; 10-08-2016 at 09:20 PM.
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post #1065 of 1076 Old 10-09-2016, 01:55 PM
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Hi,

Thank you for your thorough and diligent reply.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CherylJosie View Post
repeatable or semi-repeatable 'gunshot' noise failure mode where particular passages in a particular program generate random noise burst that can be very loud and whitish-bright sounding
This is it. You are watching something and these gunshot or clicks just start appearing randomly from any of the 5 discrete channels.

I could replace the unit with the Sony STR-DN1060 which would give me network support that I don't have but it's not essential and it seems a shame to junk a perfectly good 5.1 amp for ample funionality as this is just for a 1 bedroom apartment etc.

I suppose I could open it up and see if there are any bulging caps etc.
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post #1066 of 1076 Old 10-09-2016, 06:22 PM
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I just thought I would add that if I take a DD / DTS that is playing on my PC and setup the player so it doesn't pass through the DD/DTS but filters it down to 2 channel stereo still sent over to TOSLINK to the SR576 there is no popping at all. It only happens when the receiver has to decode the streams itself (i.e. normal!)

You can hear the noises at these points

14secs
25-27secs
30sec
39sec

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post #1067 of 1076 Old 10-11-2016, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtartn View Post
I just thought I would add that if I take a DD / DTS that is playing on my PC and setup the player so it doesn't pass through the DD/DTS but filters it down to 2 channel stereo still sent over to TOSLINK to the SR576 there is no popping at all. It only happens when the receiver has to decode the streams itself (i.e. normal!)
That seems like the extra power consumption and switching transients from enabling the decoding is causing the power supply noise to increase so much that the digital noise margin drops below functional. That is in keeping with what would be expected from bad power supply capacitors.

However, it could also be a failing decoder chip/DSP.

It could be intermittent connection or partially failed connection e.g. decoder/DSP solder ball problem. If a chip loses some of its power and/or ground ball connections that could cause issues with noise margin too. When the power/ground connection gets more resistive/inductive as it loses connectivity, it becomes more susceptible to noise.

Many possible sources for that failure but my money is on your power supply capacitors as the likely culprit given the intermittent nature and known issue, particularly if only certain passages in a program cause the failure, most likely the passages where the decoding is putting extra heavy load on the supply.

I would bet your HDMI is completely failed or close to it given the symptoms you report. Have you checked if it works?

It is possible that just changing all the 100uF capacitors on your HDMI could fix the receiver but you will not know until you finish because you do not have the test fixturing, documentation, and training to troubleshoot it to the component level. Swapping parts is only a partial approach.

If you do decide to attempt the repair yourself, be sure to inspect the board before touching anything. You have to solder the protective jumper before you remove the board or you may end up with a dead upscaler and no on-screen menu, or some other failure. I did not know about that jumper and the upscaler in the 606 never recovered though the HDMI is working fine now.

Then again, they might not have put a warning on yours and just put the warning in the repair manual instead, or you might not even need the jumper. Without insider info in the form of the repair manual it is really difficult to make any definitive statements but one thing I can say for certain is that the 706 includes that warning, and repairing the 606 without knowing about that jumper ended up with the upscaler not recovering.
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post #1068 of 1076 Old 10-27-2016, 03:58 PM
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Protective jumper?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CherylJosie View Post
If you do decide to attempt the repair yourself, be sure to inspect the board before touching anything. You have to solder the protective jumper before you remove the board or you may end up with a dead upscaler and no on-screen menu, or some other failure. I did not know about that jumper and the upscaler in the 606 never recovered though the HDMI is working fine now.

Then again, they might not have put a warning on yours and just put the warning in the repair manual instead, or you might not even need the jumper. Without insider info in the form of the repair manual it is really difficult to make any definitive statements but one thing I can say for certain is that the 706 includes that warning, and repairing the 606 without knowing about that jumper ended up with the upscaler not recovering.
Where is this jumper located on the SR606 HDMI board? I haven't found any sign of it on the schematics.

Phil
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post #1069 of 1076 Old 10-28-2016, 10:31 AM
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Has anyone figured out why after the modification, the TX-NR905 would lose sound? After the mod, I can get no sound from the receiver. It worked for a little while but stopped shortly thereafter.

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #1070 of 1076 Old 10-28-2016, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pryals View Post
Where is this jumper located on the SR606 HDMI board? I haven't found any sign of it on the schematics.
It is marked on the top side of the board in the 706 near one corner. I do not remember seeing it marked on the 606 but then at the time I was not aware it existed. There are two metal square pads close together that look like lands for a surface mount resistor and the solder mask is open where the jumper attaches. If you see just one such structure on your HDMI it is probably that same jumper whether it is marked as a jumper or not.

If I recall correctly, there might also be a warning on the silkscreen too.
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post #1071 of 1076 Old 10-28-2016, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon S View Post
Has anyone figured out why after the modification, the TX-NR905 would lose sound? After the mod, I can get no sound from the receiver. It worked for a little while but stopped shortly thereafter.
I once saw an unauthorized repair ebay vendor or some such that indicated the 805 needs a daughter board modification, where a modified hdmi has a second board tacked on top of it to fix a reliability issue of some sort. The 805 that I owned was completely dead. No sound, no picture, but the protection circuitry was not activated so probably the amp was OK. It did not have that daughterboard and when I discovered that the original design needed such extensive modification I just got rid of the receiver.
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post #1072 of 1076 Old 10-31-2016, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CherylJosie View Post
It is marked on the top side of the board in the 706 near one corner. I do not remember seeing it marked on the 606 but then at the time I was not aware it existed. There are two metal square pads close together that look like lands for a surface mount resistor and the solder mask is open where the jumper attaches. If you see just one such structure on your HDMI it is probably that same jumper whether it is marked as a jumper or not.
I didn't see anything like that on the SR606 board. I just used normal ESD practices (grounded wrist-band, ESD-safe soldering iron) to replace the ten 100 ufd capacitors and add the 1 ufd regulator by-passes. No problems encountered. OSD is back, and the video dropouts I was experiencing are a thing of the past. I also added a cooling fan: the Kingwin CF012LB is perfect. At 950 rpm, it is virtually silent even at full voltage. Only $6.68 at Amazon.

Phil
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post #1073 of 1076 Old 11-13-2016, 10:18 AM
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Thumbs up

Hi guys !

First post on this forum, I registered myself just to say : THANK YOU !
Thank you to all the guys out there who helped, with clear pics, clear how-to, to help save my amp !

So, I deciced to help as much as I could, even if every informations needed are already in the thread.

I bought last week a "perfectly working" TX-NR906 I found online (next to my "old" Pioneer VSX-824K)

img11.hostingpics.net/pics/251760IMG20161107140756.jpg


2 hours ride, a little chat with the seller, no way to test it, a few buck wisely spent, 2 hours back, test ... and you guess what's next.
So i found a few videos, a few topics, but this thread in particular helped very much.

I decided to change all the 100 and 220 uF of the HDMI board.
According to many, only 100uF are to be changed, but others needed to change the 220 uF too; so I decided to change both at the same time, just in case !
I decided to stuck with the surface mount capacitors, harder to use / solder, but better looking IMO. No change in performance / lifetime.
I ordered at Farnell.com, for less than 10 bucks, and got it 18h after ordering.

As everyone here, I recommend getting higher voltage / higher temp capacitors than the stock ones. I chose 16v / 105° capacitors; they are so cheap, don't mind getting better ones than the stock one who failed

So, here is my work place :

img11.hostingpics.net/pics/480166IMG20161109145842.jpg

And both sides of my HDMI card (reminder, TX-NR906) :

img11.hostingpics.net/pics/647569IMG20161109120120.jpg

img11.hostingpics.net/pics/889787IMG20161109120150.jpg


There is a total of 20 capacitors to change :
13 x 100 uF (5 on side A, 8 on side B)
7 x 200 uF (3 on side A, 4 on side B)

Half an hour later, everything was back in place and, guess what, ... working perfectly

img11.hostingpics.net/pics/757016IMG20161109142329.jpg


But I wanted to do more.
If it failed once, it could have failed twice and that's not how I live !
So i decided to setup a cooling fan on top of my amp, to avoid too-high temps.

I picked up an old 120mm computer cooling fan, a USB cable to power it in 5v, a thermometer to test the results and let's go !

img11.hostingpics.net/pics/511418IMG20161109150642.jpg

5v instead of the 12v the fan should have has drastically reduced the RPM of it, to be honest it's barely rotating and no way to hear !
If i should approximate, it's probably around 100 rpm ...
Anyway, i did mesure temps during hours of normal listenning, in normal condition (wired up, in place, ..)
After 2h, i reached the max temp on top of my amp, with 59°C !

I started the fan, and waited 2h again, to see how much the temp would eventually drop.
Trust me or not, in 5 minutes to temp went from 59 to 42°c !
At the end of the 2 hours, it was at 37°c.

So, i won 22°c just by adding a low-speed 5v computer fan !
Isn't it cool ?

At the end of the day, it look like that :

img11.hostingpics.net/pics/465594IMG20161111122255.jpg


Yep, i know, it's pretty ugly and I could have done better. I know.
But, hey, what's the purpose ? Being pretty or cooling it down without making any noise ?
I'm going for the second one, which achieves it perfectly

Voilà ! It's done and perfecly working.
(I'm french, it make me laugh saying "voilà" with the english accent as it's french )


Sorry for the lack of visible pics, but I coudn't show them directly as I'm not 5 posts old, sorry for that.

Hope my post will help !
Cheers

Laurent
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post #1074 of 1076 Old 11-21-2016, 07:47 AM
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Does anyone know if this will this fix the blue dot issue with the 806?
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post #1075 of 1076 Old Today, 09:24 AM
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TXNR-906 Removing HDMI daughter board from the main board

Hello All,
I have a TX-NR906 that failed to detect any signal on all HDMI inputs. HDMI output seems to be working fine. I have read the thread, watched videos. I am in the process of removing the HDMI board to replace 100u caps. I am not sure how to remove the board. Audio4Life (page 31) mentioned there is a little tab that needed to be lift up. I see a slight indentation on the side of both connectors. Do I need to insert a small flat head here and lift while wiggling HDMI board loose? From reading this thread, many of you were successful. I am not sure if I need to use more force. I am afraid break it the board seems very fragile. I appreciate any pointers or suggestion.

Thank you.
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TXNR-906 NO signal on all HDMI inputs

Hello All,
I replaced all 13 capacitors and re-connected HDMI board to the main board but no luck. Only OSD is working during setup or receiver start up. I tried all four HDMI inputs, receiver displays 'no signal'. Greatly appreciate any suggestions.

Thank you.
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