How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 871 Old 10-26-2010, 08:08 PM
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@CZ

Yep... just got the HT-RC260. Everything working perfectly now. Same cables. Same components. I think we can say for certain now that I had some variant of your HDMI problem.

Goodbye 576!

I hope Onkyo did their homework and we don't have HDMI issues again anytime soon.

FWIW... the RC260 is a decent little upgrade on the 576: a little more juice, TrueHD, DTSHDMA, HDMI 1.4 x 6, Audyssey Dynamic Volume. Didn't need that networkable fluff nor the THX on the 608. Perfect price. Gets my vote.
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post #92 of 871 Old 10-28-2010, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelsu76 View Post

@CZ
Yep... just got the HT-RC260. a little more juice, TrueHD, DTSHDMA, HDMI 1.4 x 6, Audyssey Dynamic Volume.

Thanks for sharing; it's necessary to weigh the pros/cons of repair vs replace. If someone does 'adopt' the retired unit, we might see the owner here someday.

cheers
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post #93 of 871 Old 10-29-2010, 02:11 AM
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Adding to the thread:
I have had this receiver for 2.5 years. The first year the receiver was sent to a Onkyo Authorized repair because all the HDMI stop functioning. The following happened over a year, after the first repair, with the last happening a couple of weeks ago:

Problem:
First. 1080p went out on the Playstation 3, had to use 1080i or lower.
Second. The HTR667 Started needed a warm up period for HDMI and Component to work.
Third. Component eventually stop working. Along with OSD. Checked online, you can no longer extend warranty for this receiver. 2 months out of warrenty.

Searched the net:
Countless reads later I found this thread and the following:
http://www.highdefforum.com/high-def...eadache-7.html

Decided to follow what spldart recommended, due to him working on these receivers significantly.

Solution:
Ordered the following off of Digikey.com
1. CAP CER 1UF 50V Y5V RAD
445-2865-ND FK24Y5V1H105Z 0.18900x10 $1.89 (you only need 4)
2. CAP 100UF 4V HB ELECT SMD
PCE3024CT-ND EEV-HB0G101R 0.53000x5 $2.65

3. 2 24oz cans of beer (you need this to work on SMD or microminiature components because they are a pain in the rectum. I see why CZ recommended hole fed components).

After about an 1 1/2 hours, I can gladly say that everything works.
Here are pictures for your viewing enjoyment.

Back:
-Highlighted Blue - Use 1uf 50V Cer Caps
-Highlighted Red - Use 100uf 4V SMD Caps
Before:

After:






Front:
-Highlighted Blue - Use 1uf 50V Cer Caps
-Highlighted Red - Use 100uf 4V SMD Caps




zort likes this.
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post #94 of 871 Old 10-31-2010, 11:28 AM
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Never really posted my results. Receiver works flawlessly now Thanks again!

I also installed some pc fans and used this to control them
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/59..._IXA-FCEX.html

works well
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post #95 of 871 Old 10-31-2010, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZ_the_DAY View Post

Something (like a flat blade screwdriver being twisted; wrap with tape to avoid gouging the verticle board) can be used as a wedge between the two boards in conjuction with pulling. There is room near the front-most socket. Just be sure that you have missed no HDMI port screws first


That bit of was key to getting that board out as was the tip on the power connector.

The tip of gently twisting the caps back and fourth worked exactly as described.

We (My Wife and I) were able to change out the 4 caps with success using the Radio Shack part 272-1028.

Our TX-SR606 now switches 1080p again, and the OSD is back.

Thanks.

George
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post #96 of 871 Old 10-31-2010, 10:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghettosuperstar View Post


Solution:
Ordered the following off of Digikey.com
1. CAP CER 1UF 50V Y5V RAD
445-2865-ND FK24Y5V1H105Z 0.18900x10 $1.89 (you only need 4)
2. CAP 100UF 4V HB ELECT SMD
PCE3024CT-ND EEV-HB0G101R 0.53000x5 $2.65
3. 2 24oz cans of beer (you need this to work on SMD or microminiature components because they are a pain in the rectum. I see why CZ recommended hole fed components). <<b> $Priceless>

Most excellent effort both for keeping that factory look and providing the results. Picture #2 seems to be under the influence of item #3

Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeseman42001 View Post

Never really posted my results. Receiver works flawlessly now Thanks again!

You're welcome and any cooling tips are too!

Quote:
Originally Posted by glemigh View Post


We (My Wife and I) were able to change out the 4 caps with success using the Radio Shack part 272-1028.
Thanks.
George

Again, so nice to hear, and instructions were tweaked thanks to feedback
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post #97 of 871 Old 11-02-2010, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZ_the_DAY View Post

Sorry about another delay on my part...and with your self poised to act as well. It seems I've read enough about how capacitors age to interpret what goes down as any replacement caps will again suffer premature increase in ESR and/or decrease in capacitance which can invoke oscillations from the regulator. The add-on capacitor will deter these oscillations for some extent of time.
Just knowing that my parts have been cooking for some time would inspire me to begin fresh. If you feel each cap changed presents a risk of the board being damaged then only do the prescribed ones. I was more liberal when it came to 100uFs because of a lack of specific information at the time. The add-ons which I once mused would cure more existing symptoms are instead preventers of history repeating itself (too quickly). It would be interesting to hear that someone got their AVR to resume function with just the add-ons (prior to wisely switching out the 100s)

Sorry for such a long delay in my response to the thread. To summarize what happened...

I should have left well enough alone on the 667, I installed 5 new 100uF caps and the 1uF caps across the regulators. The HDMI output looks distorted now. I will probably eventually clean up and remove 1uF caps, you have be pretty aggressive scraping off the board's laquer coating to get a good solder connection on the regulator sink. I think that is probably one of the issues.

Also, I really mangled that stupid power connection to the HDMI board. Ended up having to solder the bare plug connectors to the board pins.

With those lessons learned, I moved on my old 606. I should have done this one first, as I really had nothing left to lose on it, but it wasn't readily available to me. It helps to have a second person to act as a third hand at times. This time, I only replaced the 5 marked 100uF caps near the regulator transistors. I didn't even remove the power plug this time, instead I had my friend hold the board with the cable extended, just outside the receiver case. In the end, it was a complete success and the ports sync up immediately now from any source.

...so, my advice, get some 100uF caps and leave everything else alone. Try this first before getting any more in depth with your troubleshooting. These are the exact caps I used:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/31-6740


Good luck!
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post #98 of 871 Old 11-02-2010, 08:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capricio View Post

Sorry for such a long delay in my response to the thread. To summarize what happened...

I should have left well enough alone on the 667, I installed 5 new 100uF caps and the 1uF caps across the regulators. The HDMI output looks distorted now.

Yeah, you bad poster...we thought you forgot to unplug the AVR first...or put the caps in backwards and they exploded...etc
Can you post or PM a pic of the distortion as well as elaborate on the conditions ( HDMI input only or upscaling too; audio flawless ? ) ?

Bittersweet news nonetheless
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post #99 of 871 Old 11-05-2010, 11:14 AM
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anyone in the NY area willing to do these repair? I am afraid to try it and screw up my unit. PM me please.
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post #100 of 871 Old 11-05-2010, 02:57 PM
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Same here, anyone interested in trying these repairs on an hdmi board for the Onkyo TX-SR805 receiver. I too would probably screw it up but would be willing to pay a fair and honest price to have someone do it for me. I live in southeast Tennessee. Please let me know. Thank you.

Thank you.

Golffnutt

"GO DAWGS" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #101 of 871 Old 11-05-2010, 04:48 PM
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For me, it takes about 20-40 mins for my HDMI switcher to "warm up". I have lost the OSD and the ability to use the component inputs, even when the receiver is "warmed up". I don't think the daughtercard needs to be replaced so I'd really like it if someone could swap out the bad caps. I wonder if anyone knows any reputable shops in the NY/Westchester area?
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post #102 of 871 Old 11-12-2010, 06:34 AM
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any takers?
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post #103 of 871 Old 11-15-2010, 12:07 PM
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Replaced only the four bottom 100uf caps with Radio Shack 272-1028's and had full functionality restored to my Onkyo TX-SR606.

Tips: Push down on the connector for the black ribbon cable and use a tape wrapped screwdriver to pry the edge connectors free - thanks CZ_the_DAY!

Gently pull the white ribbon cable straight out parallel to the board - I was expecting a snap lock.

Practice soldering some wires on an old motherboard or something if your skills are rusty/lacking as your contact points are very small. I also used a magnifying glass mounted on a stand over the board.


Thanks so much to everyone's input and work here! I did drink a few beers immediately AFTER it was done Cheers!
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post #104 of 871 Old 11-15-2010, 05:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamas View Post

Hi Cz,
Would you know if this cap repair would also address intermittant static noise from speakers on a 1007?

Thanks
Tom

For the record, we came to the conclusion it in all likelyhood wouldn't. It's very similar to a known issue reported on the x007 owners thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmichaelbland View Post

Replaced only the four bottom 100uf caps with Radio Shack 272-1028's and had full functionality restored to my Onkyo TX-SR606.

...a few beers immediately AFTER it was done Cheers!

Every time there's another happy ending post, CZ drinks another beer too....but only AFTER!
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post #105 of 871 Old 11-16-2010, 11:47 PM
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First of all I wanted to say thank you to everyone who contributed to this post! Great information about this issue. I am a new member, but have a slightly different problem. I am an electronics technician with a lot of experience in repairing computer boards and plasmas, pretty good soldering skills, and I have an oscilloscope, so maybe I can contribute myself. I bought this receiver for the hdmi capability, bought it about a week ago. My HDMI will not input or output anything, ever, regardless of settings. I tried replacing the caps and adding caps to the regulators, no change. One of the dark charcoal colored components marked 470 (cap?) seems extremely hot. I am looking for any information on what I should be reading with DMM or scope, I guess, and to see if anyone has brought back a completely unresponsive board or not. Any help is appreciated!

ps... sorry for the long post!
LL
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post #106 of 871 Old 11-17-2010, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgoesse View Post

First of all I wanted to say thank you to everyone who contributed to this post! Great information about this issue. I am a new member, but have a slightly different problem. I am an electronics technician with a lot of experience in repairing computer boards and plasmas, pretty good soldering skills, and I have an oscilloscope, so maybe I can contribute myself. I bought this receiver for the hdmi capability, bought it about a week ago. My HDMI will not input or output anything, ever, regardless of settings. I tried replacing the caps and adding caps to the regulators, no change. One of the dark charcoal colored components marked 470 (cap?) seems extremely hot. I am looking for any information on what I should be reading with DMM or scope, I guess, and to see if anyone has brought back a completely unresponsive board or not. Any help is appreciated!

ps... sorry for the long post!

Finding service manual will be the best bet. But meanwhile you can start with measuring voltage on all power regulators, you find on this board.
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post #107 of 871 Old 11-17-2010, 04:31 PM
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Yeah a service manual would definitely be where to start. I will be looking for one and for now I can get the voltage readings on the regs. Thanks for the reply!

Matt.
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post #108 of 871 Old 11-19-2010, 06:14 AM
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Thanks for all this information. Its a little too much for a newbie. Ive had my SR576 for 2 and a bit years.

Im not sure its the same HDMI problem as the rest of you but heres what happens.

I have Cable plugged in to 1 hdmi working
PC plugged in to 2 1080p was working fine
Xbox plugged in to 3 1080p was working fine

Now both PC and Xbox the screen has corruption also the amp turns the screen off and on about 20 times the corruption then settles down and its fine. going direct has no problem. Ive asked about repair and its going to cost around £200 the same cost new. Will the fix posted on the first page work with my problem? How easy is it to perform for some one whos a bit of a newbie soldering?

Im at work so ive only just scan via the post so sorry if this has been posted before. The caps do I need better that the standard ones so it will fix the problem for good?

are these ok??

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electroni...ource=googleps

or

http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eca1...10v/dp/8766878
Any help would be superb.

Cheers
Baker0
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post #109 of 871 Old 11-19-2010, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baker0 View Post


are these ok??

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electroni...ource=googleps

or

http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eca1...10v/dp/8766878
Any help would be superb.

Cheers
Baker0

Hi, even though there are many criteria involved in specifications, I would chose the highest temperature which in this case is the first link.

Your description of symptoms looked so much like mine I have high hopes for your success.

I have been soldering so long that I'll have to disqualify myself from rating how newbie-friendly this will be.
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post #110 of 871 Old 11-19-2010, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgoesse View Post

I bought this receiver for the hdmi capability, bought it about a week ago.

So it's new, refurbed or used ? No one else has reported problems without logging significant hours of usage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mgoesse View Post

One of the dark charcoal colored components marked 470 (cap?) seems extremely hot.

Mine is hot too (but that could be partially transferred heat) and it's an inductor coil, rated in milliHenrys I believe, you'll find it in that "5 pin regulator " circuit pic I included near the beginning of the thread. Better yet, PM me for how to get a schematic if you haven't got one yet.

-CZ
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post #111 of 871 Old 11-20-2010, 03:11 AM
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It's been a while since I checked this thread, but I haven't had a chance to do any more with this receiver since then. It works great as a 7.1 receiver, getting HDMI to work would just be a nice bonus! I have briefly looked for a service manual but haven't gotten one yet. I also still need to check the voltage on the regs, ap1, do you know what range voltage should be (guess if I read back in the thread, it's probably here)! Cz, in answer to your question, I picked up the receiver used and the guy I got it from wasn't using hdmi, but did use it quite a bit. Good to know it is a coil, in which case it will be reated in mH. When I dig back into it I would like to have some info in hand for doing some more testing. Will be getting info soon (hopefully!) and will post my progress.

Thanks for your replies!
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post #112 of 871 Old 11-21-2010, 03:37 PM
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Thanks to all for the time and effort expended with the posts and pics on how to repiar the Onkyo 606 HDMI board

My issues --
.. If unit was turned off and allowed to get cold it would take 30 minutes sometimes before video and audio were present at HDMI ports

.. Could leave unit on all the time and no issues

.. These problems started showing up after about 1 year of moderate use

Ordered replacement caps as referenced from one of the posts from Digikey - parts arrived in two days.. Great company!

Removed HDMI board - no issues with removal
Replaced ALL 100uf caps rather than just the four referenced
Installed the little blue caps on the voltage regulators
Took a few minutes using my inspection light to verify no solder bridges, etc
Reinstalled the HDMI board
Powered back up - Yes! HDMI now through all ports

Used the twist method to remove the caps - worked like a champ
Realized real quick I would have better resoldering results of I lightly pretinned the solder points on the circuit board.

Used small needle point tip and had iron set at about 790

Found that preforming the leads on the blue cap made soldering to the voltage regulators easy - I just put about a 1/16 right angle bend on each lead and used tweezers to hold in place while soldering

Note of interest -- temperature of the receiver before these repairs would rise to about 108 degrees when measured at top vents

After repairs only see max temp of about 101 degrees - so its running cooler

I ordered one of the 120MM cooling fan kits with power supply and digital temp readout from coolerguys.com --- now with one fan on the unit is showing about 80 degrees... hopefully the receiver will give us another year or two of service

Thanks again

Chuck
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post #113 of 871 Old 11-21-2010, 11:41 PM
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Chuck --

Great news that you got your 606 up and running again. You're absolutely right about tinning all connections prior to soldering, I do it with everything I solder and it makes life much easier. I am currently in the process of trying to get my hdmi up and running; no luck yet but I have service manual now. Great forum though!

--Matt.
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post #114 of 871 Old 11-22-2010, 04:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvsteed View Post

Note of interest -- temperature of the receiver before these repairs would rise to about 108 degrees when measured at top vents
After repairs only see max temp of about 101 degrees - so its running coolerChuck

Congratulations and the observations are appreciated too...might be time to tweak the instructions again...I was also thinking of suggesting to those who are 'adding' caps that they can always gently expose some copper just off the edge of the regulator's 'heatsink' for solder purposes as that would need less heat to accomplish. Pictures forthcoming

Quote:
Originally Posted by mgoesse View Post

but I have service manual now. Great forum though!
--Matt.

Well, NOW you have the SM, my bad!
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post #115 of 871 Old 11-23-2010, 02:46 PM
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Woooohoooo i done it tonight took me less than a hour and I'm crap at soldering. CZ_the_DAY Thank you so much working a treat.
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post #116 of 871 Old 11-24-2010, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chupinsky27 View Post

Hey everyone. First time post here. I Have a 606 that my father passed down to me after it died and after reading this thread I was about to order the 100uf 10v caps that CZ_the_Day recommended but saw the post about the radio shack 100uf 35v caps and decided to give those a shot. I replaced the four caps (C8072,C8096,C8602,and C8609) and quickly tested it out. IT WORKED! was playing Xbox for a little bit and now waiting to really test it out later tonight when I start playing Halo Reach. The OSD now works as well.

Well all was well for a few months until this morning. I went to use the Xbox and it happened again... no handshake. There was no warning signs that the problem was back, just didn't work. I guess the Radio Shack 35v caps are an ok temporary fix but you'll find yourself replacing them at some point. Unfortunately I am not patient, so I am about to run back to Radio Shack and pick up four new caps to slap in there. Does anyone have a link to high quality, high temperature resistant caps I can order? Thanks.
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post #117 of 871 Old 11-26-2010, 06:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chupinsky27 View Post

Does anyone have a link to high quality, high temperature resistant caps I can order? Thanks.

chupinsky27, your experience, although disappointing, will be a potential grief-saver to others. Here are some online options I looked up;
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...s=%09P13114-ND {high life expectancy but no ESR/Impedence listed}
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=493-1736-ND{Good Impedence(+ESR?), average life exp.}
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...t%252bxg%3d%3d{possible close match to OEM but with leads}

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Originally Posted by Baker0 View Post

Woooohoooo i done it tonight took me less than a hour and I'm crap at soldering. CZ_the_DAY Thank you so much working a treat.

Cheers!


-CZ
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post #118 of 871 Old 11-27-2010, 03:16 AM
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I just found this thread after my 576 apparently has had a HDMI failure. I had been switching a PS3, HD-DVD player and a Popcorn Hour through the 576 outputting 1080i.

Tonight all of sudden no picture on the TV. The media players are fine as is the TV since I can feed the HDMI signal directly into the TV and that works.

But on the 576 on any input which should be HDMI all that displays is DSP - no HDMI word illumininated. I presume by that it means the HDMI board has failed as per this thread. I am pretty sure HDMI showe on the display when that input was active. As an aside I even reset my 576 back to factory settings hoping that was the problem but it wasn't and now I have to redo all my settings

So rather than taking this unit to a shop and pay whatever they might want to charge, is it likely that replacing the 100uF caps on the HDMI board are likely to fix my problem? I think I am game to do that - not sure about adding a case fan etc. But if I can get this going again for the cost of a few caps and my time, I am game.

Thanks

Larry
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post #119 of 871 Old 11-27-2010, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lchiu7 View Post
... is it likely that replacing the 100uF caps on the HDMI board are likely to fix my problem?
Yes Larry, likely, but I say that only because you mention no typical progressive symptoms prior to the total failure. This is only like the 3rd '576 post to the thread; a small percentage indeed.

-CZ
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post #120 of 871 Old 11-27-2010, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by CZ_the_DAY View Post

Yes Larry, likely, but I say that only because you mention no typical progressive symptoms prior to the total failure. This is only like the 3rd '576 post to the thread; a small percentage indeed.

-CZ

Yes my failure appeared to be sudden since up till then I had been playing videos with no problem and had seen none of the problems described in this thread.

It is the third 576 post to this thread but since yours is a 576 that does add a bit of credence to the solution. Given the cost of a professional repair, I guess once I can work out how to extricate the 576 from the cabinet with its attendant spaghetti wiring at the back, I will give it a shot.
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