How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 5 - AVS Forum
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post #121 of 904 Old 11-27-2010, 01:02 PM
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I am no electronics person but do know how to use a soldering iron so I am game to try this fix. Would these caps do the trick

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView....T&SUBCATID=859

They are rated at 16V but it seems like they are also rated at 105°C.

Thanks
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post #122 of 904 Old 11-27-2010, 09:19 PM
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Hey everyone -- I just wanted to make sure the dealer that I took my 606 to did everything needed to fix it.

Got it back today and everything works fine. 1080p, OSD Menu's, HDMI switching, Component, doesn't take 10 minutes to show video, etc (all didn't work anymore).

They said they replaced like 8 parts. Here is what is on the ticket:

4x Part No. 3981G1017R2 (100 uf 4V)
4x Part No. 374721044T (0.1 uf 50V)

I assume those are all 8 capacitors? Is that good enough or should they have replaced the whole HDMI board? Did they just replace everything with the same stock parts?

My warranty is over in 2 weeks and I'd hate for everything to stop working again in 1 month.
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post #123 of 904 Old 11-28-2010, 06:48 AM
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So I tried this because my xbox and media PC have stopped displaying through the receiver (but work fine connected to the TV). It didn't seem to work.

I replaced the 4 caps with ones that I got with mouser linked from this thread. My cable box still works with the receiver but nothing else works.

Are there any other things I should try replacing to get it to work?

Thanks.
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post #124 of 904 Old 11-28-2010, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lchiu7 View Post

...Would these caps do the trick < ?; snip >
Thanks

Larry, hello down there, if I'm reading into this correctly. Your selection appeals to me because of the low esr claim and the rated hours at 105C....If you are not planning a cooling mod, consider buying and adding the 4 1uFs (when manufacturer ID'd applicable). The lowest voltage is fine; polyester, tantalum, etc...just not electrolytic (chemical based)
You are so right about liking the odds because this thread was conceived from a '576

Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Frame View Post

Hey everyone
Is that good enough or should they have replaced the whole HDMI board? Did they just replace everything with the same stock parts?

Good news, bad news; I believe they are exact but potentially better quality. At least you got modded (4 of 8 caps), an improvement. A board replacement would be preferred, even if it's destined to suffer the same fate someday; at least one could keep it cooler instead.
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post #125 of 904 Old 11-28-2010, 08:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackworth View Post

Are there any other things I should try replacing to get it to work?

Thanks.

Hmmm, name looks familiar from somewhere<<b>edit; nm, you have the suspected refurb'd 606>.....I would try measuring output from every *regulator I can get at (admittedly a challenge even when not assembled/powered) and/or replace the rest of the 100s and then the ones I mention supporting the 5 pin primary regulators (220 and 470uF times 3). You may just be one of the unlucky ones

*primarys are around 4v, the rest are a mix of 3.3 and 1.8v (for the most part)

-CZ
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post #126 of 904 Old 11-28-2010, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZ_the_DAY View Post

Hmmm, name looks familiar from somewhere<<b>edit; nm, you have the suspected refurb'd 606>.....I would try measuring output from every *regulator I can get at (admittedly a challenge even when not assembled/powered) and/or replace the rest of the 100s and then the ones I mention supporting the 5 pin primary regulators (220 and 470uF times 3). You may just be one of the unlucky ones

*primarys are around 4v, the rest are a mix of 3.3 and 1.8v (for the most part)

-CZ

So I decided to check my work and I noticed that you said "I'm taking the liberty of assuming C8602 should have read C8607". Well, that was my issue. I replaced C8607, however my board does have a C8602. I replaced that and my xbox now appears to be working with my 606.

I need to do more testing but you could have just saved me 300+ dollars! Thanks for doing what Onkyo couldn't do!

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post #127 of 904 Old 11-28-2010, 01:05 PM
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Just over a year ago, Onkyo replaced my HDMI board in 606 since it was under warranty. Fast forward a year later, and I'm experiencing the same issues. HDMI ports 2, 3 and 4 show artifacts every few seconds, components don't work, OSD display is out.

Guess I will have to do this fix one of these days...I'm scared.

EDIT: Hrm, just looking inside I see that C8609 is burnt out, and the one next to it (looks like C275) is bent and there was some white stuff leaking out spilling over the board. Just...great.
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post #128 of 904 Old 11-28-2010, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vivix729 View Post

Just over a year ago, Onkyo replaced my HDMI board in 606 since it was under warranty. Fast forward a year later, and I'm experiencing the same issues. HDMI ports 2, 3 and 4 show artifacts every few seconds, components don't work, OSD display is out.

Guess I will have to do this fix one of these days...I'm scared.

EDIT: Hrm, just looking inside I see that C8609 is burnt out, and the one next to it (looks like C275) is bent and there was some white stuff leaking out spilling over the board. Just...great.

That white stuff is supposed to be there. I think its some kind of epoxy that prevents the cap from moving.
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post #129 of 904 Old 11-28-2010, 03:31 PM
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First let me thank all of you for all the great information in this thread.

My 606 started with a video problem. If I was watching a DVD (dvd in) and switch to DVR (dvr in) which is connected to a tube tv via component the tv would not receive the video but the audio was great. I would have to turn the 606 off and back on to get the tv (video) working. Then the 606 started having a audio issue doing the same thing going from dvd to dvr.

I replaced caps 8072, 8096, 8602 and 8607 per this thread and this seemed to fix the audio issue but not the video issue. Then I replaced caps 8162 and 278 to see if this would help with the video but it didn't help. Does anyone have thoughts on this?
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post #130 of 904 Old 11-28-2010, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackworth View Post

That white stuff is supposed to be there. I think its some kind of epoxy that prevents the cap from moving.

Yea, upon inspecting it a bit closer, it appears that it's just some sort of "glue".

So can someone link me good quality 100uf and 1uf capacitors that I should order? EDIT: Ordered the 100uf linked in the first post.
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post #131 of 904 Old 11-29-2010, 01:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZ_the_DAY View Post

Larry, hello down there, if I'm reading into this correctly. Your selection appeals to me because of the low esr claim and the rated hours at 105C....If you are not planning a cooling mod, consider buying and adding the 4 1uFs (when manufacturer ID'd applicable). The lowest voltage is fine; polyester, tantalum, etc...just not electrolytic (chemical based)
You are so right about liking the odds because this thread was conceived from a '576

Thanks for the input. I found a colleague at work who has a PhD in EE (though power systems, not electronics though he is no stranger to circuits). If I can remove the board, he said he can replace the caps for me easily and might even have caps at home of the correct rating. I will ask him about the 1uF's also and when it's done, report back.
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post #132 of 904 Old 11-30-2010, 02:15 AM
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OK - I have found some other strange behaviour in my unit. I unplugged it from the mains for a bit thinking that when it cools down it might work temporarily. I also reset the CPU and reset the HDMI inputs.

When I turned the unit it, it cycled on and off for about 10 times before settling in the on mode. The HDMI was still non functional. That is some behaviour I have not seen reported in this thread.

I am not sure replacing the caps is going to fix it but it certainly can't harm it and the cost is low (probably just a 6 pack )
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post #133 of 904 Old 11-30-2010, 08:06 AM
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After my testing, my HDMI ports seem to be working again, but still no OSD.

I am going to check out the other 1uF recommendation to see if that is something that I need to apply.

Does anyone have any pointers on that part?
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post #134 of 904 Old 11-30-2010, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackworth View Post
After my testing, my HDMI ports seem to be working again, but still no OSD.

I am going to check out the other 1uF recommendation to see if that is something that I need to apply.

Does anyone have any pointers on that part?
Make sure you select a source with no input, and a blue screen is showing on your monitor before you try the OSD. I don't think the Onkyo OSD is capable of super-ceding another source like other receivers can.

I don't think the 1uF caps will help with this particular problem, they are more like preventative maintenance against long term heat from a DC ripple effect, if I understand it correctly.
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post #135 of 904 Old 11-30-2010, 08:11 PM
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Ok so I made it worse hahaha
I bought the radioshack caps 272-1028
replaced the 4 mentioned in repair receipt.

BEFORE:
OSD worked, clean display. The setup would take about 10 minutes before the display would show anything. The cable box (only device attached) would keep disconnecting and reconnecting (handshake issue) about every 5-10 minutes.

NOW After the fix:
No OSD, horizontal white lines occasionally, so far the tv and stuff turn on with it right away...

I i triples checked the caps were secured with solder well and no traces lifted...
any thoughts?
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post #136 of 904 Old 12-01-2010, 01:56 AM
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You might have caused additional issues i.e by overheating during soldering or static etc. Are all caps inserted the right way ?
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post #137 of 904 Old 12-01-2010, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capricio View Post

Make sure you select a source with no input, and a blue screen is showing on your monitor before you try the OSD. I don't think the Onkyo OSD is capable of super-ceding another source like other receivers can.

I don't think the 1uF caps will help with this particular problem, they are more like preventative maintenance against long term heat from a DC ripple effect, if I understand it correctly.

That could be it. I don't think I selected a blank source. I am in the process of moving so everythig is disconnected, but I will try that out.

Thanks!
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post #138 of 904 Old 12-01-2010, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gurkey View Post

You might have caused additional issues i.e by overheating during soldering or static etc. Are all caps inserted the right way ?


i forgot to check polarity on the caps LOL
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post #139 of 904 Old 12-02-2010, 03:38 PM
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CZ_the_DAY as you have read before ive done the replacement 6 caps. Its been working perfectly. But tonight ive just watch a film on my pc via the amp. The amp seem to reset its self twice during it.... It only lasted a second. ive noticed its getting really hot, nearly to hot to touch. Do i need to do the fan mod to cool it down? If so sounds like a stupid question where do I put the fan?? and do i suck or blow air??

Cheers
Ross
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post #140 of 904 Old 12-03-2010, 07:23 AM
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Do i need to do the fan mod to cool it down? If so sounds like a stupid question where do I put the fan?? and do i suck or blow air??

Either blow in the side, or suck upward from the top. Do not blow down into it from the top. Sucking upward from the top is the best option. Try to allow a few inches open on the sides to draw air in.
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post #141 of 904 Old 12-03-2010, 12:32 PM
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Well I removed the HDMI board and on Monday will ask my EE friend to replace the caps for me. I wouldn't have been able to do this without the hints from CZ_the_Day. I would have been stymied by initially removing the PS connector (I thought the whole block connector came off - not just the wires) and then applying sufficient force to remove the board from the connectors on the main board without the fear of breaking the board. Thanks for that.

So will report back when it's done.

But as an aside, I have a US version but I operate it in 240V country with a transformer. With the unit open I can see the mains transformer seems to have two windings connectors on it. The one marked with the arrow in the picture might well be the 220(240V) input connection so if I were to resolder the yellow wire to this line I might be able to dispense with the outboard 240V/110V transformer I use.



Anybody have any ideas on this?

Thanks

Larry
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post #142 of 904 Old 12-04-2010, 02:19 PM
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Im confused. It dont take much. Any how this fan mod. this:

*I added a CPU cooling fan connector (previously enjoyed) to an unpopulated capacitor pad ('606 and others won't be empty). It supplies around 9-10 volts (thru the 2 1N4007 diodes) which should quiet the eventual internal fan

Ive opened it up again im getting no volts from the unpopluated capactor pads. But i do get 11 volts from the negative on the left hand unpopluated capacitor and the bottom tiny solder points to the left of the unpopluated capacitor is this right??

Thanks for your help
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post #143 of 904 Old 12-07-2010, 02:35 PM
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[quote=CZ_the_DAY;18556867][b]
*I suggest using non-SMD replacements as they allow for improved soldering access
*Be sure to get polarized, 'axial', 100uF/10V (6.3 minimum)/105`C rated caps (I see 85`C versions on the board underneath )

The capacitors you recommend [html] http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/United-Chemi-Con-UCC/APSA100ELL101MFA5G/?qs=iXcfd2MmwnuFiJ8z6zt%252bxg%3d%3d[/html] have a radial termination style. Yet, in your tutorial you stated the capacitors should be "axial". Does it matter if they are radial?
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post #144 of 904 Old 12-07-2010, 10:09 PM
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Since, like in overclocking, heat is the enemy here, I thought I would mention the Antec Veris AVR cooler. This little thing is a prerequiriste if you're going to stack one component on another but also does a damn good job of keeping an Onkyo cool with the two 120mm fans underneath it that sucks and vents all the heat from the Onkyo out the back of the Veris.

Now i've just upgraded to the 608 and since it comes with a fan I'm debating if I want to use the Veris or not. I'm tempted to disconnect the stock fan so that I don't burn it out (muffin fans don't like negative pressure, if I recall correctly) prematurely by running it anyways because I now it will move a hell of a lot more air than that pitiful stock jobbie - especially since I'm placing it in a 3'x4' closet with every other piece of A/V equipment I own... and the handful of coats I cannot evict from the wife's "coat closet" (in as snotty a voice I could muster).
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post #145 of 904 Old 12-08-2010, 01:05 AM
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Well I replaced all the caps on my board (well a friend who has a PhD in EE did it for me).

Put the board back and when I powered on the unit, it switched off and on about 10 times before staying on. But no video through any HDMI input. I tried to reset the unit and reassign the HDMI ports but still no video.

As an aside it was doing this switching on and off before I did the cap replacement so the new caps didn't cause the problem.

So I guess my problem isn't the same as others on this forum and I am faced with either trying to get a pro repair (or possibly risking getting a new board from Onkyo and install it myself) or ditching the AVR and getting a new one.

This is a bit disappointing.
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post #146 of 904 Old 12-08-2010, 08:27 PM
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UPDATE
got it working perfectly!
if you have problems where the receiver keeps trying to reconnect to a device you HAVE to replace the left most capacitor in this pic
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post #147 of 904 Old 12-14-2010, 04:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S3K View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by CZ_the_DAY View Post

[b]
"*Be sure to get [b]polarized, 'axial'......"

The capacitors you recommend have a radial termination style. Yet, in your tutorial you stated the capacitors should be "axial".

It won't state axial anymore. Thanks for catching this S3K, and to everyone else, sorry for miss-leading you.

-CZ
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post #148 of 904 Old 12-14-2010, 08:12 PM
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I'm going to attempt repairing my HT-R960 (Refurb 9100THX) this weekend that started exhibiting these familiar symptoms almost right after the warranty period expired:

1) Loss of OSD (Did not realize this until recently)
2) TV used to go blank sometimes when the LG BD390 used to switch from logo to actual Player menu.
3) Used to take 5 minutes to warm up on HDMI, Optical works just fine.
4) HDMI now completely dead with no-handshake whatsoever.

Thought I'd just just get Pioneer 1120 receiver but going to try this first as I'm fairly adept at soldering (Caps ordered online from the link in the first post)

Kris
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post #149 of 904 Old 12-16-2010, 06:55 PM
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I've been following this thread, and the other over at HighDef Forum for a couple of weeks now. I've got a refurbished 606 that is experiencing the warm-up before handshake issues, so I've ordered the 100uF caps in addition to the 1uF caps.

Am I no electronics expert by any stretch of the imagination, however I've done enough soldering in my life that I have no doubt that I can easily do the replacement.

So I wanted to say thanks in advance to the OP and everyone else whom has contributed to the confidence of this DIY'er.

I'll post some pics when I've completed the work this weekend. Cheers!
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post #150 of 904 Old 12-16-2010, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igo4bmx View Post

UPDATE
got it working perfectly!
if you have problems where the receiver keeps trying to reconnect to a device you HAVE to replace the left most capacitor in this pic

Left-most as in the the left-most highlighted, or the left-most regardless? Just asking, I'm about to do the replacement on my 606 so I'm trying to save myself a panic post or two later.
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