How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 855 Old 01-03-2011, 11:29 AM
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I picked up a used tx-sr706 with bad hdmi for $50, it would be great if this worked!
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post #182 of 855 Old 01-03-2011, 11:29 AM
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Tried the fix, and nothing happened, still the same...no video at all, no OSD, and can hear sound only through port HDMI 1.
I´m gonna try changing the rest of the 100´s and those 220-470`s.
Will let you now, hope it works, if not, then I might be getting a Pioneer .
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post #183 of 855 Old 01-03-2011, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakalao1 View Post

Tried the fix, and nothing happened, still the same...no video at all, no OSD, and can hear sound only through port HDMI 1.
I´m gonna try changing the rest of the 100´s and those 220-470`s.
Will let you now, hope it works, if not, then I might be getting a Pioneer .

Bummer! Try adding the 1MFDs across the regulators too.
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post #184 of 855 Old 01-04-2011, 10:40 AM
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Guys, I am having a hard time getting the pin connection loose. Not the one that slides in but the one to it's left.. I pull on it and it doesn;t seem to move at all. I am affraid I will break them.
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post #185 of 855 Old 01-04-2011, 10:42 AM
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I am referring to the black connector next to the white connector.
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post #186 of 855 Old 01-04-2011, 11:18 AM
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Tried the 1uf caps on the regulators...nothing.
I´m gonna try a last thing, changing all 100´s and 220´s, but I´m not optimistic about it.
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post #187 of 855 Old 01-04-2011, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrdluck13 View Post

Guys, I am having a hard time getting the pin connection loose. Not the one that slides in but the one to it's left.. I pull on it and it doesn;t seem to move at all. I am affraid I will break them.

Try pushing the plastic piece down, the bare cable will come loose easily.
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post #188 of 855 Old 01-04-2011, 11:39 AM
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Perfect, thanks
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post #189 of 855 Old 01-05-2011, 05:42 AM
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I wanted to thank all that contributed to this post!

Over a year ago ago the OSD on my 667 went, then 1080p, then HDMI all together; everyone knows this story by now.

I switched out the 5 100uF capacitors with the Digikey ones linked in a post above and everything works great now! It's great to have 7.1 over HDMI again!

The only difficult part was removing the HDMI daughterboard from the vertical board. I didn't do the screwdriver prying trick (that made me nervous), I just did a lot of gentle but firm tugging with very slight side-to-side wiggling while supporting the vertical board. It took a little while, but it came out eventually.
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post #190 of 855 Old 01-05-2011, 03:32 PM
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I've successfully repaired my Onkyo TX-SR606!

Thanks to threads http://www.highdefforum.com/high-def...aka-606-a.html, http://www.highdefforum.com/high-def...-headache.html, and http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1246078.

I ordered 10 pieces of 565-3047-ND (CAP 100UF 10V ELECT POLY RAD) and 10 pieces of 445-2865-ND (CAP CER 1UF 50V Y5V RAD) from Digikey. Total $20.41CAD after shipping and 13% tax.

I replaced the following capacitors with 100uF, matching the colored side of the new caps to the colored side of the old caps: 8072, 8096, 8602, 8607, 8609, 8162.

I added the 1uF capacitors across the following voltage regulators (do not appear to be polarized, any direction works fine): 8651, 8008, 8005, 8654, 8162.

I did not check for a blown fuse under the PCB near the transformer, and I have not performed a factory reset (and have never performed one during my entire ownership period). Everything worked immediately after adding the capacitors.

After the repair:
* OSD displays on HDMI output. Previously did not.
* Xbox 360 (HDMI) is able to output at 1080p instantly. Previously had to wait 15-120 minutes for it to handshake.
* PC (ATI 5670, HDMI) is able to output at 1920x1080 @ 23/24/60Hz now. Previously HD resolutions were glitchy and could only do 1000i @ 60Hz or 1080i @ 23/24Hz.

All you need is a steady hand and good lighting. My soldering iron is ancient and the tip is far from sharp, clean, and precise, yet I was able to do the repair. A precision tip would definitely help if you have the option.

After soldering, wiggle each capacitor's arm to ensure good contact, and touch up soldering where needed. Everything should work after this! (unless your EEPROM chip is damaged).
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post #191 of 855 Old 01-06-2011, 02:43 PM
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Thanks a lot for helping the 606 hdmi handshake problem.

Changed 5* 100uF 10Volt en added 4* 1uF 50Volt.

only NO osd on tv

How can i check DTS-HD sound with my receiver via my ASRock Vision 3D htpc.
I connect this with HDMI and an optical cable with my Onkyo.
Search for a DTS movie on YouTube, but the receiver shows (PCM, HDMI, DSP) on receiver screen
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post #192 of 855 Old 01-07-2011, 04:35 PM
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hi everyone ive just posted in the 606 owners thread but im thinking i would of been better in this one

my 606 currently switches all hdmi inputs and out puts hdmi, component doesnt work through hdmi only if i connect component out to the tv, also my compostite connections dont work either aswell as not having any on screen display.

i bought this unit 3 days ago for £120 and was described as working perfectly, now given the experience on this forum would it be logical to think that a capacitor repair on this unit would be successfull given that at this moment in time my hdmi's are ok?

i really dont know what to do for the best i could get a small refund of the guy i bought it off to cover the cost of the parts or i could just get a full refund?
thing is two of these unit have sold for over £200 on ebay so im thinking it may be worth the expense, tho the bloke who sold me it should give me a refund cos it dont work!

rich
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post #193 of 855 Old 01-07-2011, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkyork View Post

hi everyone ive just posted in the 606 owners thread but im thinking i would of been better in this one

my 606 currently switches all hdmi inputs and out puts hdmi, component doesnt work through hdmi only if i connect component out to the tv, also my compostite connections dont work either aswell as not having any on screen display.

i bought this unit 3 days ago for £120 and was described as working perfectly, now given the experience on this forum would it be logical to think that a capacitor repair on this unit would be successfull given that at this moment in time my hdmi's are ok?

i really dont know what to do for the best i could get a small refund of the guy i bought it off to cover the cost of the parts or i could just get a full refund?
thing is two of these unit have sold for over £200 on ebay so im thinking it may be worth the expense, tho the bloke who sold me it should give me a refund cos it dont work!

rich

I did the repair and although handshaking video with HDMI is working great, my OSD, component to HDMI, and composite to HDMI still doesn't work. It seems to be hit or miss on whether this repair will fix it 100%.
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post #194 of 855 Old 01-07-2011, 08:39 PM
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ive just done the vd test and it shows ???????? so it looks like my eeprom is bad due to the capacitors
so i dont know but i think ill be in the same boat as you mackworth, allthough changing the caps will probably prolong the life of the bits thats still work

its so difficult to say but the guy i found out the vd test from repairs these things and seems very clued up

looks like i will never have component or composite if my eeprom is bad, so if this is the worst case scenario and the new caps dont bring it back to life then what should i do ask for a very substantial refund or return it?
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post #195 of 855 Old 01-09-2011, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackworth View Post

I did the repair and although handshaking video with HDMI is working great, my OSD, component to HDMI, and composite to HDMI still doesn't work. It seems to be hit or miss on whether this repair will fix it 100%.

I had the exact same experience. Replaced the 5 offending caps yesterday...HDMI switching is working normally again, but Component via HDMI does not work and OSD doesn't work at all. I've factory reset the receiver after the repair to see if that brought the OSD back, but nothing.

So it is a lot better than it was, but not as good as new. I've added a Component out to my TV's Component in, which takes care of the devices connected to Component inputs (although now requires switching from the TV's HDMI 1 port, which was the only connection before and made for a happy wife). Not a big deal really, just need to reprogram the Harmony to switch the TV now.
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post #196 of 855 Old 01-09-2011, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkyork View Post

ive just done the vd test and it shows ???????? so it looks like my eeprom is bad due to the capacitors
so i dont know but i think ill be in the same boat as you mackworth, allthough changing the caps will probably prolong the life of the bits thats still work

its so difficult to say but the guy i found out the vd test from repairs these things and seems very clued up

looks like i will never have component or composite if my eeprom is bad, so if this is the worst case scenario and the new caps dont bring it back to life then what should i do ask for a very substantial refund or return it?

I am not sure how much receivers go for where you are, but if I had paid ~150 USD on one of these and the composite/component to HDMI and the OSD didn't work, I would be pretty pissed.

I mean with that stuff not working, is there really anything this receiver has that sets it apart from the lower end models that are available today (that also have HDMI 1.4, etc)?

So for 50 bucks, its still probably a deal, but for 150, I would rather buy a new model.
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post #197 of 855 Old 01-09-2011, 03:28 PM
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a knackered 606 sold on ebay for £136 inc delivery! it was described as having handshaking issues and reckons everything else is fine, unbelievable really!

ive just had a refund off the guy i bought it off and im happy with the refund, ive still got full hdmi working and dont really anticipate wanting to run anything composite, component from component out sorts the xbox out

ive had £40 refund so i got alot of functionality still for £80, im gonna do the cap change just so its broken but fixed as per onkyo's bulletin, im not expecting things to start working again other than me hdmis working a bit longer. this is my first av receiver and surround sound setup so i maybe blinded by the excitement! lol im happy with £80 and can live with an osd etc

on that note tho do you get more options on the osd compared to just using onkies?
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post #198 of 855 Old 01-10-2011, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhawker23 View Post

I don't know if this is the same problem as everyone else but I cannot get a blu ray player HDMI connection. I can take the HDMI cable from my cable box, connect it to the blu ray player (still connected to Cable/Sat which works on cable) and it gives me "no signal". After a couple of players and different cables, it all comes down to the combination of blu ray and the receiver. All players worked fine connected directly to the TV. All other connections to the receiver via HDMI (computer, cable box) work fine in any HDMI connection.

It was odd tonight, I just picked up a new sony bd player and on the first connection, it flashed on the screen, a few vertical lines showed up and it blanked out. Never to connect again after multiple attempts and multiple startup configurations.

Its taking all I have to not yank the thing out and throw it outside. I'm past frustration. I keep thinking I'll find some perfect combination but it isn't happening. Any reason it would only be the DVD connection??

I wanted to add that the blu ray player and 606 worked fine with each other for over a year. It started to get flakey and after a couple of shutdowns/power ups it would work. Now its just gone.

I tried the (4) 100UF 10V cap replacement with no luck. Everything is exactly the same. At least it all worked again after the little project. But, no blu ray and no OSD.

Do you think the 1Uf 50V approach could resolve a blu ray/606 handshaking problem or is that related to another problem?
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post #199 of 855 Old 01-15-2011, 07:13 PM
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Got my caps ripped off and am getting ready for the main event.

I couldn't get the power cord unhooked so I just laid a towel in the receiver and am using the giant heat sink as a table.

Wish me luck.
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post #200 of 855 Old 01-15-2011, 07:58 PM
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Progress report.

Doing the caps is pretty easy, even though my last serious experience soldering was over 40 years ago in junior high.

Bridging the regulators is a major flail. I think I'm having trouble finding metal to solder to on the broad side of the regulators.
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post #201 of 855 Old 01-15-2011, 08:19 PM
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Just a word of thanks to CZ and ghettosuperstar. I replaced all the 100uF caps as CZ described and the caps across the voltage regulators as spelled out by ghettosuperstar in my 606. $3.00 worth of capacitors later (found 100uf 10v caps for $.09 each at my local parts store) all my switching problems disappeared. Took me a couple of hours to open up the receiver and replace all the components.

Great job by those who blazed the trail and very much appreciated.
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post #202 of 855 Old 01-15-2011, 09:47 PM
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Job done. I gave up on the regulators, even though they are the Toshiba ones.

I replaced 4 caps. The Boss is watching a movie right now; so I won't install and test the TX SR606 til tomorrow. I'm not very optimistic.

I suspect I'll be shopping for a new receiver shortly. Any recommendations? I want to be able to use the receiver at a switcher. It needs to take component and upconvert it to 1080i, it needs to decode DTS MA and Dolby TrueHD and it should be able to bi-amp the front speakers.

It should also be affordable.
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post #203 of 855 Old 01-16-2011, 10:22 AM
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While laying in bed last night I remembered tearing out 5 caps and only soldering 4 so before I put the unit back in the cabinet, I opened it up again and confirmed that I did forget one.

Also, cap #8096 had popped off partially even though the soldering job didn't suck as much as the others. I notice there is a cable leading into the card below right in that spot; so if you think you did a good job and the unit still doesn't work as expected, it might be a good idea to tear it down again and have a second look.

I don't know if I'm going to give another try at the regulators while I'm at it. I am in semi-surrender mode right now and just want to get it over with.
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post #204 of 855 Old 01-16-2011, 02:46 PM
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Well, no one is more surprised than me.

I made a half-hearted attempt at the regulators but gave up. I resoldered the cap that got jarred off by the cable and inserted the one I forgot last night.

Everything works like new. The OSD works. HDMI 1, 2 and 3 work (didn't hook anything up to HDMI 4) and the receiver outputs from my JVC 3000 dVHS from component to the tv via HDMI. All the switching seems to work and I have all audio codecs available.

I thought I killed the board by overheating one of the regulators while trying to get solder to stick.

I haven't even calibrated the sound yet, but everything sound great.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.
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post #205 of 855 Old 01-19-2011, 08:21 AM
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I've seen both 1.0uf and 0.1uf values posted here for the bypass caps to be installed over the regulators.

Which one is correct?

Also, it seems that these bypass caps are not part of the fix itself but part of preventive maintenance. Can anyone confirm that?

Thanks, folks!

EDIT: After reinstalling the HDMI board, there's video (via HDMI 1-4) through the HDMI out, but no sound through the HDMI. Also the component video doesn't output through the HDMI out.

Is this board toast? I would think that if there were heat related problems causing cap failure, then the other caps might be bad, too. I've replaced all the 100uf and the smaller 220uf.

Anyone got a solution? (besides tossing it off a cliff).

Thanks
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post #206 of 855 Old 01-19-2011, 08:49 PM
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Okay, my capacitors came in... I ordered 10 each 100uf 10v low ESR, part number 31-5275, from MCM Electronics, for $1.16 each, and replaced the same 5 that StanVanDam did a few posts ago. Mine were polarized, so made sure that the stripe (negative) went toward the narrow end of the white box on the board on each one. Used my old 35W soldering iron, but filed the tip nice and pretty, then tinned it up, cut and bent the leads of the capacitors out at right angles to match the remaining little pads on the board. Tinned the capacitor leads, put it in place and just touched the soldering iron to each lead and she was good. Gave it a little push to make sure it was secure, and went on. Got all five done in about 20 minutes or so. I've done some soldering before, not this delicate, but this definitely wasn't a huge deal. Anyway, I plugged everything in (1080i cable DVR, 1080i HD-DVD player, 1080p PS3, composite DVD player, composite VCR). Fired everything up, and it all works. I don't have any component signals being input, so I don't know if those work, but there's no issue with any of the HDMI ports in or out, OSD, or composite inputs.

I got the receiver well over two years ago, and had problems with it about six months after I got it. No OSD, no composite input video worked, but I had audio for the composite inputs (VCR and DVD player). The repair station changed one capacitor, I think, and I got my video and OSD back. However, it seemed to take a while to get any HD input from HDMI to come up. And I could NEVER get 1080p to work on the PS3. I had to set that to 1080i, and it would work, but only after about 15 to 30 minutes. It would work with SD (480p) through HDMI from the DVR, but anything 720 or better was no dice.

After replacing the 5 100uf capacitors, with a cold receiver, I immediately selected the PS3, and it came right up in a couple of seconds, and the TV showed 1080p input. All inputs seem to work. Yippeeee! We'll see how it works in the months to come.

I also added a 140mm fan to the top of the case, with rubber pins (MASSCOOL 140mm Silent 2 Ball Bearing Case fan from TigerDirect), and ran the power wire in to a fan connector, and hard wired it to the 12v/Gnd input. It installed without any modification to the top of the receiver, and I'm hoping it'll draw enough air past the boards to cool a little.

Thanks to all of you for your information and hard work! Thanks to CZ for starting this thread! Great work.

Ben
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post #207 of 855 Old 01-25-2011, 05:33 AM
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Just want to say thanks to CZ and getto. My 606 has been flakly since aug and finally it wouldn't switch hdmi. I replaced the caps with 35V and 50V caps i purchased at the shack and it handshakes great now with my HD DVR cable box and PS3. Who know $8 in parts would save a $300+ receiver.
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post #208 of 855 Old 01-26-2011, 10:45 AM
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Wow, so after many months of not having any issues, I am now getting a Green screen from my comcast box, I have to toggle from CBL/SAT to Aux, then back to CBL/SAT to get the picture back. Looks like my receiver is dying again..

SEGA! was seriously injured, but the soul still BURNS!

Fixed my ONKYO HTS-6100\HTR667:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnHxThGxasQ
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post #209 of 855 Old 01-26-2011, 12:41 PM
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Well I have had the caps replaced twice, once by an EE friend, the other by a service tech. And alas, no joy either time. On my SR576 I get no signal at all on the HDMI inputs. But rather than ditch the receiver, since apparently the S/PDIF and coax inputs still work, I will make do with using an external HDMI switch for video and changing all my media sources to use lossy audio over S/PDIF rather than the lossless audio I was getting over HDMI with the PS3 and my Popcorn Hour.

It's the system in the family room so it's likely the audio difference is not going to be easily detected but nevertheless it's annoying for a relatively new receiver to have this problem.
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post #210 of 855 Old 01-26-2011, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lchiu7 View Post

Well I have had the caps replaced twice, once by an EE friend, the other by a service tech. And alas, no joy either time. On my SR576 I get no signal at all on the HDMI inputs. But rather than ditch the receiver, since apparently the S/PDIF and coax inputs still work, I will make do with using an external HDMI switch for video and changing all my media sources to use lossy audio over S/PDIF rather than the lossless audio I was getting over HDMI with the PS3 and my Popcorn Hour.

It's the system in the family room so it's likely the audio difference is not going to be easily detected but nevertheless it's annoying for a relatively new receiver to have this problem.

Are you ever going to buy another Onkyo product again?

SEGA! was seriously injured, but the soul still BURNS!

Fixed my ONKYO HTS-6100\HTR667:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnHxThGxasQ
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