*Official* Denon AVR-1911/791 & AVR-2311CI/891 Owner's Thread - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 5060 Old 06-18-2010, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owlish View Post

That would be funny.
Seriously though, can someone else with Denon/3DBD/3DTV confirm whether it passes 3DBD properly or not?

I am successfully playing Wipeout on my PS3 in 3D with a Denon AVR-891 and Samsung PN58C8000 if this means anything.
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post #272 of 5060 Old 06-18-2010, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by torontodude View Post

I am successfully playing Wipeout on my PS3 in 3D with a Denon AVR-891 and Samsung PN58C8000 if this means anything.

dumb question: where did u get wipeout 3d game?
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post #273 of 5060 Old 06-18-2010, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by torontodude View Post


I am successfully playing Wipeout on my PS3 in 3D with a Denon AVR-891 and Samsung PN58C8000 if this means anything.

It may, or may not. The BD and broadcast formats are different, and game may use either (or yet another one, since there is more than one choice even for those two).
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post #274 of 5060 Old 06-18-2010, 07:58 PM
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Confused about surround modes - does it automatically choose TrueHD or whatever is best? I'm running a PS3 and I can't get it to give me TrueHD as a choice while playing Star Trek BluRay. Also, for music CDs and Ipod, is there a way to have just left, right and sub? Possibly also have the surrounds be a clone of the left and right fronts? I don't want center unless it's a mixdown of left and right. I know my old HK had this feature. I have a 5.1 setup. Thanks guys.
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post #275 of 5060 Old 06-18-2010, 08:08 PM
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Confused about surround modes - does it automatically choose TrueHD or whatever is best? Or is Prologic II where I want to be?

if you don't change anything, as long as input/decode mode is still set to the default "auto" it will automatically detect the input signal. For any multichannel content it should play automatically (e.g. "Dolby Digital" for a DD 5.1 signal, "Dolby TrueHD" for a DTHD signal, etc). This is called "Standard" mode -- pressing the "Standard" button on your remote will always return it to this default decoding mode with multichannel material.

With 2 channel content, you have your choice of leaving it in stereo, or matrixing it to 5.1 (with PLII or DTS Neo, your choice). With a 2-channel input, the "Standard" button will cycle between PLII > NEO. The D/ST button next to it will cycle between DIRECT and STEREO modes.

For more info you should read the audio section of my faq: http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#audio

If you change the surround mode with a given input signal, it will remember your preference (e.g. if you like a stereo PCM input to play in STEREO mode, it will remember that the next time it sees a PCM stereo input). Note however that if you use the QUICK SELECTS to change sources you will have to re-memorize it or it will go back to the defaults next time.

It memorizes these surround preferences separately per input; this is "auto surround" which is on by default. If you want to check what the current preferneces are for that input, open the OSD and check AUTO SURROUND in the INFORMATION menu.

Quote:
Also, for music CDs and Ipod, is there a way to have just left, right and sub?

yes, both STEREO and DIRECT mode can be configured as 2.0 or 2.1. You will want to use the 2CH DIRECT/STEREO menu to set up your preferences; this is covered in the link to faq, above.

Quote:
Possibly also have the surrounds be a clone of the left and right fronts?

there is a 5CH STEREO mode (this is one of the "denon simulation" modes accessed by the "simulation" button on the remote. However, it will mix content into the center channel.

another option is to use PLII but switch to the MUSIC mode (this must be done via the OSD after using the Standard button to turn on PLII). You can change the amount mixed to the center and the surrounds using the CENTER WIDTH and DIMENSION controls. If you turn the CENTER WIDTH all the way to the extreme, it will mute the center channels and give you 4.1.

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post #276 of 5060 Old 06-18-2010, 08:38 PM
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incredibly helpful - thank you for taking the time.

just to confirm - ps3 should be set to bitsteam? sorry, it's a little confusing - just making sure it's not doing unnecessary conversion. It does light up truehd now!
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post #277 of 5060 Old 06-18-2010, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmscs View Post

dumb question: where did u get wipeout 3d game?

Go to the PS3 store and under games there is a 3D section
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post #278 of 5060 Old 06-18-2010, 11:00 PM
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still couldnt find the link you said but seems like on amazon its $99? wow thats expensive game right there
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post #279 of 5060 Old 06-19-2010, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by kevinmscs View Post

still couldnt find the link you said but seems like on amazon its $99? wow thats expensive game right there

There's no link, you have to go to the Playstation Store from the PS3 and download it. I think it was about $30.00....geez I hope it wasn't $99!
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post #280 of 5060 Old 06-19-2010, 07:33 AM
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Just bought a 791. I have 1 HDMI cable from my v10 to the 791 (through the wall), and have connected my dvr to HMDI 3. That works fine. However, when I connect my bd85 to HDMI 1 (preset for BD), and switch the 791 to BD, it doesn't appear on the V10.

Note: When I direct connect the BD85 to the V10 via HDMI, it works fine.

Any suggestions on what I might try to get a picture running through the 791 would be appreciated.

Thanks!
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post #281 of 5060 Old 06-19-2010, 08:06 AM
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Have you tried the other HDMI jacks? As we learned from last year's models, they tend to be somewhat different in specs and that may also be the case in the 2011 models as well. If none of them work, then do the reset the microprocessor procedure listed in your Owner's manual.

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post #282 of 5060 Old 06-19-2010, 10:43 AM
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Thanks! I'll give it a go!
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post #283 of 5060 Old 06-19-2010, 01:30 PM
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Forgive me if this has been specified here, but my search didn't give a definitive answer...
The 1910 seems to have separate speaker posts for Zone 2 but the 1911 doesn't?
So there's no way to have the 1911 support 7 speakers in zone 1 and 2 add'l speakers in Zone 2?

I know that you can't have 7.1 and Zone 2 going at the same time on the 1910, but in the 1911, it would seem like I couldn't even wire my 7.1 setup with my add'l zone 2 speakers... just want to confirm that.

Thanks for the assistance.
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post #284 of 5060 Old 06-19-2010, 07:08 PM
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As far as Zone 2 is concerned the 1910 and 1911 are identical. You either use the Surround Back/Amp Assign speaker posts with a 5.1 in the main zone, or you can use the Zone 2 pre-outs with a 7.1 in the main zone. The Front speaker "B" posts are on the 1910 and were removed from the 1911 as the intention is for them to be used for a second set of Front speakers (generally higher quality speakers used for music only). On the 1911 the same surround back/Amp Assign jacks used for Zone 2 are also used when Front "B" speakers are used.

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post #285 of 5060 Old 06-19-2010, 08:53 PM
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I will be moving in mid-August and need a second AVR for my new place (current receiver is a 1909). I'm leaning towards picking up at 2310 at a reasonable price now given that I need the AVR by mid to late August. Won't the 2311s be priced at a premium initially? A related question is when would folks expect the stock of 2310s to run out?
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post #286 of 5060 Old 06-19-2010, 08:56 PM
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The on-line e-tailers will likely discount the 2311 by 10-20%. Hard to tell when the 2310's will be gone ... better to call a few of the e-tailers and see what their inventory levels are at this point.

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post #287 of 5060 Old 06-19-2010, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The on-line e-tailers will likely discount the 2311 by 10-20%. Hard to tell when the 2310's will be gone ... better to call a few of the e-tailers and see what their inventory levels are at this point.

Thanks for the note. Discounts on the 2310 are ~30% now, right? I guess I will keep a close eye on 2310 availability. When are the 2311s expected to be in stock?
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post #288 of 5060 Old 06-19-2010, 09:30 PM
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The 2311 is due to be released by the end of this month. If you don't need the 3D feature or other additional features offered by the 2311, the 2310 is the better buy.

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post #289 of 5060 Old 06-19-2010, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The 2311 is due to be released by the end of this month. If you don't need the 3D feature or other additional features offered by the 2311, the 2310 is the better buy.

I'll be using this receiver with a ceiling mounted projector (PT-AE4000U), so bypassing the 3D is probably not a bad idea at all.
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post #290 of 5060 Old 06-20-2010, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Yes, you can just use a standard 3.5mm> RCA y-split type cable to go from the headphone jack to the front aux inputs on any receiver. The advantages you get from the all-digital USB connection are:

1) you avoid the crappy DAC of the ipod headphone jack
2) you don't have to worry about the ipod volume interacting with the AVR volume
3) you can control the ipod directly through the receiver's on screen displays

Now, if you aren't a "critical" audiophile then #1 and #2 aren't a big deal... so if you don't care about having to physically change the track/playlist on the ipod itself, then the 1910 will work fine.

So looking at this again, would getting the denon ipod dock with last years model give me the same playback from an ipod as this year's usb enabled model? With current discounts, I could get last years 890 and a dock for about the same as this years 791.

This seems like a great deal to me, but the wife has stated she wants the best ipod playback, since that is mostly what she listens to, so I'm wondering if there would be much difference between the two.

I'd be gaining 2hdmi ports, the 'premium' video processing (how much difference is that?), and some legacy inputs. Anything else to factor in? (3d/1.4 is non-factor).

Thanks!
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post #291 of 5060 Old 06-20-2010, 11:16 AM
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good thought process -- I would 100% take a Denon 890 + Denon dock over a 791; the ONLY advantage the newer model has is 3D (which I don't consider much of an advantage). With a Denon dock you would be able to control the ipod through the Denon (using a nice GUI interface on the higher end models).

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post #292 of 5060 Old 06-20-2010, 06:28 PM
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i just got a 791 yesterday and hooked it up today,still pretty confused on what setting to use or how it works as i just turned it on an hour ago so still got some playing around to do,i have the def tech pc600 system hooked up to it and i have 2 questions, first one,is there any way to have a cable box hooked up to the receiver via hdmi but be able to watch and listen fomr the tv without the receiver turned on and the second question, I know its not related to this section but does anyone know a way to stop a subwoofer from shaking around the floor,the floor pads that came with it ain't working.
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post #293 of 5060 Old 06-20-2010, 08:49 PM
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1. Set HDMI Control to ON and then set the HDMI Standby Source to the specific HDMI jack number the cable box is plugged in to. Then when you put the 791 in standby it will pass the audio/video of the cable box to the TV.

2. Try using a SubDude.

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post #294 of 5060 Old 06-21-2010, 08:37 AM
 
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I posted this in the plasma forum, but it might be better to ask here too.

I just ordered the 63c7000 from amazon yesterday and also decided to pickup Samsungs 3d blu ray player with free glasses. I am coming from a 60" XBR1 which I love but it has some limitations. I was extremely excited until last night when I realized something about my setup.

I with this tv I will have an hdmi cable box, xbox, and the new 3d blu ray player. About a year ago I talked the wife into letting me upgrade an older Denon I had to the AVR 790 for HDMI switching and lossless audio. Right now I have everything going through the 790.... which is only HDMI 1.3.

So in order for me to get lossless audio from the blu ray player I will need to get a newer receiver. I've pegged the Onkyo 608 or the Denon 791, but I think I want the 791 because it has Audyssey MultiEQ setup instead of the Audyssey 2EQ setup on the Onkyo.

Now with either of these receivers there seems to be two ways to set this mess up. I can either put the three sources directly into the TV and use the second HDMI port on the TV for the audio return channel to the receiver. I feel like this would be the "better" setup in so that each video input could be calibrated independently (I'm going to self calibrate at first, but have it professionally done in the not too distant future if the wife allows... or goes out of town ). The other setup would be how I currently have things setup where everything thing goes to the receiver and then one plug from the receiver to the TV.

Any opinions/experience on this? If I go the former route of using the TV inputs how will this work as far as using TV speakers only (normal TV viewing) and using receiver speakers with no tv speakers (sports, games, movies). Will everything TV turn off it's speakers when the receiver is on? How well does HDMI CEC work? I have a Harmony One remote, but it's IR so sometimes the receiver doesn't get a signal from the remote because of line of sight.

From the looks of scanning this thread quickly (at work ) the current setup I have (all into AVR and then to the TV) is the desired way.
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post #295 of 5060 Old 06-21-2010, 09:29 AM
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Now with either of these receivers there seems to be two ways to set this mess up. I can either put the three sources directly into the TV and use the second HDMI port on the TV for the audio return channel to the receiver.

that is not the way ARC works -- you cannot use your TV as a "switcher" to send audio back to the TV. There was just a discussion about this in this thread, I suggest you read back a few pages. As far as I can see, the ARC is ONLY to pipe back audio that is internally generated in the TV (e.g. if you are using the internal cable tuner or streaming internet content direct to the TV). It needs to 'piggyback' on a video connection FROM the receiver, so will still need to use the AVR as the video switch.

Quote:


How well does HDMI CEC work?

not very well; the "official batpig recommendation" is to turn all that crap off unless you specifically need a feature it provides (e.g. standby passthrough on the Denon AVR). Specifically, Samsung's Anynet+ definitely causes conflicts with Denon AVR's, so I suggest you turn off Anynet+ in both player and TV.

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post #296 of 5060 Old 06-21-2010, 09:44 AM
 
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I have been reading back, though in a very stupid way as I'm am reading in reverse so I'm not paying enough attention and getting confused. So ARC would only be useful for watching internet/streamed content on the tv. That's not bad I suppose, but not as useful as I dreamed up.

So as I figured a year or two ago, all the extra HDMI inputs are worthless to anyone with a AVR. Damn shame CEC is crap, but Harmony does put out some good remotes.

Thanks batpig.
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post #297 of 5060 Old 06-21-2010, 09:54 AM
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The problem with HDMI-CEC is that the mfgr's make too many dumb assumptions about how you should want things set up, leading to all sorts of confusion (like your AVR magically switching to the "TV" input after a few seconds when you start some other activity), and there is no way to manage the configuration to use the parts that work while turning off the automatic crap that gunks up the gears.

I can see the usefulness for some technical illiterate user who goes to best buy and brings home a "matching" Sharp LCD and BDP home theater system and wants them to turn on together and have the same remote work everything..... but for a complex setup with an AVR and multiple sources, it is completely overwhelmed and a good universal remote will provide infinitely more functionality.

Quote:


So as I figured a year or two ago, all the extra HDMI inputs are worthless to anyone with a AVR.

right, it is inevitable these days that there is going to be a lot of redundancy in devices (e.g. your disc player, your receiver, and your TV all have the ability to "upscale" to 1080p)... but they have to have the inputs in the TV for people who don't have video switching receivers (probably most people). It also makes more sense to have the switching done in the AVR for the "wall mounted flat panel" folks who don't want to fish a zillion cables through the wall...

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post #298 of 5060 Old 06-21-2010, 10:19 AM
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I have the 891, 2311 and the 3311 here and we are testing 3d on them.. All seem to pass directv properly to the Panasonic VT25 and the VT25 switches to 3d mode perfectly.. YEa They did it right..

The Onkyo 508,608 do not pass the data correctly and the VT25 tvs will no go into 3d mode automatically. Its unbelievable how onkyo screwed the pooch on this one..

GO Denon !!!

Craig
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post #299 of 5060 Old 06-21-2010, 10:25 AM
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I have the 891, 2311 and the 3311 here and we are testing 3d on them.. All seem to pass directv properly to the Panasonic VT25 and the VT25 switches to 3d mode perfectly.. YEa They did it right..

The Onkyo 508,608 do not pass the data correctly and the VT25 tvs will no go into 3d mode automatically. Its unbelievable how onkyo screwed the pooch on this one..

GO Denon !!!

Craig

Craig,

Have you tested the same func with a BD player? Some reported that Denon doesnt switch it right for BD players.
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post #300 of 5060 Old 06-21-2010, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tully214 View Post

Does anyone know if the onscreen gui is a video overlay on the source picture? I will be using hdmi entirely. Mainly wanting to know if there is a volume bar over my source material.
Be good

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Originally Posted by batpig View Post

yes on 2311/891

no on 1911/791

see the 2nd question in my FAQ

The manual on my 1911 (European/Germany) states that while the black OSD is used for HDMI or component video sources (pg. 14):

"If you want to display the menus superimposed on the background image, input the same video signals to the video connectors. When a menu is displayed, the picture switches to the one being input from the video connectors and the menu is displayed superimposed over this picture"

So it sounds like if you stack the analog/digital signals to the input, one could get the OSD overlay on the picture via an automatic switch to the analog source when in the menu mode. Or... maybe I'm wrong. Haven't tried it myself, and I don't know if this applies to the US models.


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Originally Posted by hydrogin View Post


2. Will ARC work when there is no cable box driving the AVR? In my case, the cable would be connected to the TV, so no video is passing from the AVR to the TV. Would the Denon still be able to receive the TV's audio?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrogin View Post

Regarding my question #2 above, I just got a reply in the HDMI forum that ARC should work in that scenario:

I have the same setup on my 1911 European/Germany model with the cable line going direct into the Panasonic's DVB-C input. Audio Return Channel works fine to the AVR-1911, but there's one caveat in that the OSD does not work for the TV input in this case (or perhaps I'm doing something completely wrong). I assume this is because no video is being processed through the receiver, and it doesn't smartly override the video source coming into the TV. This means that configuring the setup for the TV input is done by carefully navigating the front-panel display. A pain in the butt, to be sure.

OSD works for all other video sources being passed through the receiver - so no problems there.
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Denon Avr 791 Receiver , Denon Avr 1911 Receiver , Denon Avr 891 Receiver , Denon Avr 2311ci Receiver
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