*Official* Denon AVR-1911/791 & AVR-2311CI/891 Owner's Thread - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

it will do great nothing to be "sad" about with the 2310, that's what I use too!

Me too.

But with respect to the upmix question - can't quite remember, but wasn't there some sort of 2310 upmix issue with 7.1 DTS MA and Dolby TrueHD formats?
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post #902 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by lujan View Post

It's coming in on Tuesday (8/24) according to UPS. I can't wait since I still haven't gotten to hear how a Denon sounds.

I finally have a working Denon and I ran the Audyssey but got a caution "L/R Phase". Can anyone tell me what might be wrong? I skipped it to continue for now.

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post #903 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I finally have a working Denon and I ran the Audyssey but got a caution "L/R Phase". Can anyone tell me what might be wrong? I skipped it to continue for now.

IIRC the manual said if you've verified it's wired correctly and a retry still says the same thing to just ignore it.
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post #904 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 08:47 AM
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So hate to ask another can my AVR power this question, but just got the opportunity for a different set of used speakers. My 2310/11 will it do justice to

Paradigm Studio 60 v4 and Studio cc-690 v4?
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post #905 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ings View Post

But with respect to the upmix question - can't quite remember, but wasn't there some sort of 2310 upmix issue with 7.1 DTS MA and Dolby TrueHD formats?

not that I'm aware of.

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post #906 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UllSang View Post

So hate to ask another can my AVR power this question, but just got the opportunity for a different set of used speakers. My 2310/11 will it do justice to

Paradigm Studio 60 v4 and Studio cc-690 v4?

those are very nice speakers, so if you got a good price jump on it and worry if you have enough "juice" later on. In theory, you will be fine, as Paradigm Studios are generally 8-ohm nominal and decently efficient.

the Studios do have some low impedance dips that could tax a weak amplifier if you try to drive them really hard.... but it's really going to be a function of volume and the size of your room. You probably will be just fine... just use common sense, if it starts to sound like crap when you crank the volume too far, that means you are running out of power. Remember that power demands are logarithmic -- it takes 10x as much power to increase the volume 10dB. In general, unless you are listening at crazy loud volumes you probably will be using very litter power.

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post #907 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rad View Post

IIRC the manual said if you've verified it's wired correctly and a retry still says the same thing to just ignore it.

Thanks, I do have a couple of speakers connected with cheap wire that isn't color coded like the rest of the speakers so these might be connected wrong. I'm guessing there's no way to tell which is which with these ones and it's just trial and error, right?

Also, I chose "No" for Dynamic Volume which I think is best. Any other opinion on "Dynamic Volume"? I think Onkyo calls it something else but I never used it on my Onkyo because other users said it suppresses the surround speakers.

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post #908 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 09:58 AM
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almost all speaker wire will have SOMETHING to differentiate the two leads. It might be something as simple as some wiring on the plastic jacket, or a texture difference (e.g. one side has little grooves and feels rough while the other is smooth).

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post #909 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

almost all speaker wire will have SOMETHING to differentiate the two leads. It might be something as simple as some wiring on the plastic jacket, or a texture difference (e.g. one side has little grooves and feels rough while the other is smooth).

Yes, but even if I find the difference, how can I tell which goes into the positive (red) and which goes into the negative (black)?

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post #910 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 10:16 AM
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it doesn't matter! there is no difference between the two wires

as long as you are CONSISTENT on both ends, so red is connected red and black is connected to black. that is what determines proper phase, positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative (not criss-crossed).

there is zero difference in the two strands of wire, it just connects from one to the other.

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post #911 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

not that I'm aware of.

I have de-confused myself. I was actually thinking of a downmix problem you had previously commented on:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post17080267

We should probably continue this in the 2310 forum, but do you recall if there was a crisp resolution to this "problem"?
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post #912 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 11:55 AM
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OK, I'm with you now

there was never any resolution because it turned out to be a total false alarm. That particular "bug" never actually existed!

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post #913 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

it doesn't matter! there is no difference between the two wires

as long as you are CONSISTENT on both ends, so red is connected red and black is connected to black. that is what determines proper phase, positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative (not criss-crossed).

there is zero difference in the two strands of wire, it just connects from one to the other.

Oh, I think I get it now. The caution warning said it was the surround left and right that were out of phase so as long as I change the wires on either one of them, it should correct the phase problem, right? Sorry to be so dense about this.

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post #914 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

Oh, I think I get it now. The caution warning said it was the surround left and right that were out of phase so as long as I change the wires on either one of them, it should correct the phase problem, right? Sorry to be so dense about this.

Just check the wiring first to see if you have it right already. Mine also said it was out of phase reran the test again and it said OK. Did it again later said out of phase again, but I checked and the wiring was correct so just double check and ignore it if you're wired correctly.
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post #915 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 03:51 PM
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We've got an AVR-2308ci that has worked well for us, and was hooked up to an older Sony 42" plasma TV. So old, in fact, that it doesn't even have HDMI input! We've got an HDMI-->DVI cable running between them. Anyway, buying a new home and the old TV is going to be used in the kid's room. We are strongly considering a Samsung PN63C8000 63" HD/3D TV for the new place, which has a huge family room. Since the 2308ci has only two HDMI inputs, I'm thinking a receiver upgrade is warranted. The 2311 has a whopping six HDMI inputs, along with up-scaling, and "3D Passthrough". It'll also fit our budget, after we blow nearly $3k on the TV!

One question I have is about that 3D Passthough. What the heck is that? If we decide to stick with the 2308ci, will we be able to connect a 3D Blu Ray player to it and play 3D movies on the new TV?

I guess that I'm just trying to be sure that spending another $900 isn't useless. We "could" stay with the 2308ci, but I certainly like the features of the new model.

Jim, in the city of Folsom, CA. (NOT the prison!)
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post #916 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 03:54 PM
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3D "passthrough" means that it has the HDMI 1.4 hardware to allow a 3D video signal to pass through unmolested. If you tried to connect a 3D Blu-ray player to your 2308, you couldn't pass through 1080p 3D video to your new 3D display.

If you are happy with the 2308, no reason you won't be happy with the 2311. Although you shouldn't spend $900 on it! By calling up authorized dealers you should be able to get it for 20%+ off msrp. You should also consider stepping up a bit more to the 991 model, which adds the more sophisticated MultEQ XT room correction plus a few other features (like networking, Audyssey DSX).

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post #917 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 04:59 PM
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Got it. The Samsung TV does 3D, and with the 2308ci, we'd be out of luck if we wanted to watch 3D. Been doing some comparisons on the Denon site between the 2311, 3311, and 911. Got to determine if the 3311 is worth the additional $200.

Thanks for your help!!

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post #918 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 06:20 PM
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Hi all,

thanks for this forum to post all audessy stuff and batpig's articles...here are my questions...

1.I want shut off my tv and play only HD radio on my receiver..i dont want my tv left on when i listen to radio...how can i do this setup..right now if turn off my TV it shuts off the denon too.

2. how can i register my panasonic TV with denon AVR 1911 receiver ( i thought if i had done this i can fix the above problem)
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post #919 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 06:35 PM
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1. If you set HDMI Control to ON (to allow HDMI pass through) then by default the Power Off setting is also ON (p. 57). Set it to OFF.

2. Registering preset codes is done on pp. 62-64. The default preset for TV is for a Sony TV.

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post #920 of 5060 Old 08-25-2010, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W6JHB View Post

Got to determine if the 3311 is worth the additional $200.

Just because the MSRP difference is $200 doesn't mean the actual price difference is that much. By calling the authorized vendors listed on Denon's site (eg. Electronics Expo, 6Ave, J&R, etc.) you will get a better idea of the true difference and whether it's worth it.

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post #921 of 5060 Old 08-26-2010, 03:45 PM
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Now that I have a working Denon 2311ci, I will start asking more questions to gather user opinions. What do Denon users think of Dynamic Volume and Dynamic EQ? Is it better to have these on or off and why?

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post #922 of 5060 Old 08-26-2010, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

...What do Denon users think of Dynamic Volume and Dynamic EQ? Is it better to have these on or off and why?

Search any of the more active/current Denon threads and you will probably find differing opinions on DVol and likely almost all positive with many frequent users of DEQ. As I have posted on several occasions, I personally always use DEQ as it allows me to listen to a wonderfully balanced reference mix at below reference levels.

I use DVol when
1. compressed dynamic range is desirable (like if I don't want to disturb others who are asleep, or to even-out background music for a quiet dinner party) (=Midnight) or
2. when the the trade-off from full-range dynamics is worth it, such as to even out dialog in a soundtrack in which the levels vary so much that otherwise I would have to have remote in hand (=eve) or
3. to tame commercials on TV (=eve)(although I almost always DVR and fast forward thru them)

I never use DVol when listening to music, watching concerts or when I want to enjoy the full effect of films, especially action flicks.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #923 of 5060 Old 08-26-2010, 07:00 PM
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Search any of the more active/current Denon threads and you will probably find differing opinions on DVol and likely almost all positive with many frequent users of DEQ. As I have posted on several occasions, I personally always use DEQ as it allows me to listen to a wonderfully balanced reference mix at below reference levels.

I use DVol when
1. compressed dynamic range is desirable (like if I don't want to disturb others who are asleep, or to even-out background music for a quiet dinner party) (=Midnight) or
2. when the the trade-off from full-range dynamics is worth it, such as to even out dialog in a soundtrack in which the levels vary so much that otherwise I would have to have remote in hand (=eve) or
3. to tame commercials on TV (=eve)(although I almost always DVR and fast forward thru them)

I never use DVol when listening to music, watching concerts or when I want to enjoy the full effect of films, especially action flicks.

+1

I rarely use Dyn Vol (but if I had neighbors on the other side of my living room wall, I would use it much more)

I use DynEq 100% of the time. Now that I use DynEQ, I don't like the sound of music without it. I wish my car had it
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post #924 of 5060 Old 08-26-2010, 08:34 PM
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Hello

I've just hooked up my ps3 to the denon avr2311ci. My display is the panasonic p50vt25.

My ps3 is updated to the latest firmware for 3d games, but the ps3 doesn't recognize that I have a 3d set, and even weirder the screen flickers like mad when the resolution on the ps3 is set to 1080p. If I switch the resolution to 1080i or 720p it is stable but 3d is still not recognized. Is the most likely culprit a slow speed hdmi cable. I have a new monoprice high speed hdmi from the denon to my set but my ps3 to denon cable is an older cable.


UPDATE: the ps3 works fine going direct to the tv. (my cable is high speed afterall) The problem is with the connection through the denon. I tried all the different varieties of the Video processing, upscaling, no processing/upscaling- but nothing works. The screen just flashes static sections and black rapidly.
Anyways, I'm going through the usual troubleshooting routine, but thought someone may have had a similar experience and can stave off a bit of aggravation.

FINAL UPDATE:

Problem solved. It turns out that mono price's 180 degree hinged hdmi adapter was not passing a 1080p signal.
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post #925 of 5060 Old 08-27-2010, 12:48 AM
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Hi, new to the forum so be gentle.
I've a avr-2310 and i'm thinking of buying a new 3d tv, from what iv'e read i need to upgrade to the new 891 for hdmi v1.4 to allow 3d signals...my question is i also run a sky hd box, a ps3 and a cd player through my 2310 with hdmi v1.3. will these leads work on the new avr-891?

Hope iv'e explained myself.

Thanks

Neil
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post #926 of 5060 Old 08-27-2010, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejhayes76 View Post

...I wish my car had it

Take a look at Audyssey car audio.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #927 of 5060 Old 08-27-2010, 04:08 AM
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... i'm thinking of buying a new 3d tv, from what iv'e read i need to upgrade to the new 891 for hdmi v1.4 to allow 3d signals...my question is i also run a sky hd box, a ps3 and a cd player through my 2310 with hdmi v1.3. will these leads work on the new avr-891?...

Hi Neil, welcome. I am no expert on the matter, but AFAIK v1.4 capable jacks and cables are fully backwards compatible with v1.3. See this and here. So your old devices and cables will work fine connected to the new AVR HDMI input jacks. <>

BTW, if you select a dual-HDMI output 3D BRP you would not need to upgrade your AVR yet, as you could simply run one 1.4 cable direct from BRP to your new 3D display. The other HDMI out would be connected to the AVR for the HiDef audio codecs. Be sure to check out monoprice or Blue jean cables (forum sponsors at top of page), rather than invest in "Monster"-ously expensive cables.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #928 of 5060 Old 08-27-2010, 10:26 AM
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(1) With a 7.1 setup, when the DVD etc only has 5.1, which speakers does the rear defaut to?
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post #929 of 5060 Old 08-27-2010, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
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The new 1.4 devices must use 1.4 cabling through each connection to enable full functionality.

Keep in mind that although the Denon manual does refer to using an "HDMI w/ethernet" cable, as that feature is not enabled in Denon AVRs, the same "hi speed (1080p)" HDMI cable that is used with HDMI 1.3 components can be used with HDMI 1.4 components (passing 3D and ARC). It's not the cable that matters (aside from Standard (1080i) and Hi Speed (1080p)) as much as the spec of the HDMI port itself.

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post #930 of 5060 Old 08-27-2010, 10:31 AM
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(1) With a 7.1 setup, when the DVD etc only has 5.1, which speakers does the rear defaut to?

The side audio is mixed to the rear speakers using DD PLIIx when in the STANDARD surround mode.

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