*Official* Denon AVR-1911/791 & AVR-2311CI/891 Owner's Thread - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 5095 Old 09-09-2010, 06:40 AM
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To show a higher power output, mfr's will often rate their AVRs into only 2 speakers (instead of 5 or 7), use a higher THD, or rate it into 6 ohms instead of 8 ohms. Denon opted to introduce the 3 digit AVRs at their 6 ohm rating (which in the case of the 891 is 135W while into 8 ohms is the same 105W as the 2311). Although originally they stated the same 6 ohm numbers on their webpages, they've since changed them back to the 8 ohm numbers.

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post #992 of 5095 Old 09-09-2010, 03:52 PM
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Ok , I searched this thread and google and I'm not finding this answer and I'm frustrated still looking at the manual... The Wii is showing picture but I'm not getting audio. Please advise. Second question, I have my computer hooked up via digital coax and I'm not getting any sound (yes I have an input turned on under input assign for it)
Thank you in advance for the knowledge
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post #993 of 5095 Old 09-09-2010, 04:00 PM
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Quote:


The Wii is showing picture but I'm not getting audio.

please provide DETAILS

how is it connected? what types of cables? which inputs are you using, and have you actually coordinated the input assignments? when you say you aren't getting audio, do you have speakers or are you trying to pass the audio to the TV speakers (which isn't possible FYI).

Quote:


Second question, I have my computer hooked up via digital coax and I'm not getting any sound

that's not a question!

make sure the input is assigned correctly, and that input mode is set to "DIGITAL". beyond that, it's something with the computer.

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post #994 of 5095 Old 09-09-2010, 04:01 PM
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What specific inputs are you using and what specific settings are you using?

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post #995 of 5095 Old 09-09-2010, 04:10 PM
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Most apologies I was rushing.

The wii is connected via component cables. I've tried using the TV input as well as the Sat/CBL input which I get video on both but no audio. I have 7006 Definitive Floors speakers,Pro Monitor 800's for the rear and and a Pro center 1000, The Tv it's hooked up to is a Panasonic 54" VT25.

(I wouldn't dare go through the Tv's speakers lol)

Yes the input is set to Digital I am currently trying Digital on "V.Aux"

I hope that's enough info
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post #996 of 5095 Old 09-09-2010, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambitionz View Post

..The wii is connected via component cables..

Well that takes care of the video. Now connect the audio using optical or coax.


Oops I was thinking cablebox, I think Wii only has red/white analog output for audio. Those would go to the same input as the component video cables.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #997 of 5095 Old 09-09-2010, 04:44 PM
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to follow up, "component cables" could mean two things:

1 - if you are only using THREE cables, that is just component VIDEO and you aren't getting any audio! (which is what SoM was referring to)

2 - sometimes the full bundle of FIVE cables is also called "component" in which case it refers to audio + video (three for video, and stereo L/R for audio)

you need to make sure that the audio AND video connections are coordinated on the same input name.

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post #998 of 5095 Old 09-09-2010, 04:47 PM
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I don't know why but for some reason it hiccup'd and when sound started coming thru digital coax and wii now I've lost cable.

it looks like this

````````` HDMI DIGI COMP
PS3 `````` 1
360``````` 1
TV ``````` -
WII `````````````````` 1
GAME ````` 3 `` 01
VAUX(PC)`````` C1


Ok I'm getting that line on TV and I'm not sure why because that's where FIOS was coming thru (on the amp it says "-NoHdmi-" but it's plugged in)

I switched it to Game and now I have picture on that but no sound.

Update:Everything has sound AND picture except for TV I have Picture but NO sound.

Thanks for the help with the troubleshooting.

btw yes I was using all five component cables for the WII component prior. The TV is hooked up thru HDMI


I apologize in advance for the extremely low budget attempt at a diagram. And sorry for the "`" when I tried to just put spaces it didn't work
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post #999 of 5095 Old 09-09-2010, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambitionz View Post

Most apologies I was rushing.

I hope that's enough info

What receiver do you have?

What sources are going to the receiver input?
(so far PS3, Xbox 360, Wii, FIOs cable box and computer audio only)

Connections for 1911/791:
BD (PS3) - HDMI-1

DVD (Wii) - Component-1 (for video), connect Wii Audio cables to R (red) and L (white) under DVD. Then go into Input Mode and set it to Analog.

SAT/CBL (FIOs) - HDMI-3

GAME (Xbox 360) - HDMI-4

V.AUX (Computer audio) - Coax.-1 Then go to Input Mode and set it to Digital.

Now just rename your inputs to your liking.
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post #1000 of 5095 Old 09-09-2010, 09:41 PM
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Am looking to upgrade my home theater from a good but very standard Sony HTIB which I've had for a few years. Want to upgrade to the next level and think that the Def Tech Pro Cinema 600 would be a good upgrade for my room size and budget I have in mind. Link for speakers below..

serieshttp://www.definitivetech.com/Products/products.aspx?path=Speakers By Series|ProCinema Series&productid=ProCinema 600 System

Would the AVR-1911 be a good combination for this speaker system, or would the 1611 be acceptable or do I need to think about something with more power per channel?

Also, would like to have the 1.4 HDMI as I will be upgrading my TV & Blu Ray Player to 3D capability soon.

Please advise...
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post #1001 of 5095 Old 09-10-2010, 08:52 AM
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either the 1611 or 1911 will work fine, they are a perfect match for a mid-level sub/sat package like those Def Techs.

choose the 1911 over the 1611 only if you need the extra features listed at the beginning of this thread.

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post #1002 of 5095 Old 09-10-2010, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tampasammy View Post

Would the AVR-1911 be a good combination for this speaker system, or would the 1611 be acceptable or do I need to think about something with more power per channel?

I have the AVR-1911 and am very pleased. If you don't need the extra features of the 1911, the AVR-1611 will work fine. The extras I use frequently on the 1911 (not available on the 1611) are the USB/iPod interface, the HD radio and extra CD analog input. These features made the approx. $100 increase in cost worth it to me.

FYI, I also upgraded from a Sony HTIB (circa 2008). The difference is night and day, if not greater.
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post #1003 of 5095 Old 09-10-2010, 02:52 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. May I ask where you got the 1911 or where do you recommend buying...took a look at the authorized dealers and most in my area are Best Buy's and the list price is $599 for this unit at the BB's and $399 for the 1611. Never purchased electronics from an on-line retailer, so if you can provide some advice, that would be very helpful.
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post #1004 of 5095 Old 09-10-2010, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tampasammy View Post

Thanks for the feedback. May I ask where you got the 1911 or where do you recommend buying...took a look at the authorized dealers and most in my area are Best Buy's and the list price is $599 for this unit at the BB's and $399 for the 1611. Never purchased electronics from an on-line retailer, so if you can provide some advice, that would be very helpful.

I bought my 1911 from Electronics Expo. You will see them recommended a lot in the Denon forums. They only list MSRP on their website. You have to call or use a coupon code to get the best price.
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post #1005 of 5095 Old 09-12-2010, 09:37 AM
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It arrived - ordered from EE and very happy with price and fast delivery.

Love the receiver, but still playing with settings. One question I have though, I run the auto setup and got a Phase error on my center speaker - switched the wires (though I didn't think I had the wrong in the first place) and the error went away. Reran setup the next day - got error again. switched wires back - still get error. I'm using Mirage Nanosat. I read that some speakers may show phase error even if there isn't one - by any feedback on this would be great because I just don't understand why this would be.

Thanks.
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post #1006 of 5095 Old 09-12-2010, 09:55 AM
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Regardless of the "phase error" message, it should be fairly easy to confirm that you have the +/+ and -/- connections made correctly. As the manual indicates press SKIP and move on. Some mfr's intentionally design their speakers to be out of phase.

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post #1007 of 5095 Old 09-12-2010, 12:01 PM
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Mirage Nanosats would be specifically prone to this as they have an "omnipolar" design; depending on the physical position of the speaker relative to room boundaries, the mic could be picking up a lot of reflected sound that is slightly delayed, leading to the phase error. As JD and the Audyssey Setup Guide note, check the wiring and, if it is correct, simply "skip" and continue on

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post #1008 of 5095 Old 09-13-2010, 03:51 AM
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Question:

Ive had the 791 for about 2 weeks now. Ive messed with adjustments and settings in a attempt to learn its operation and feel I have a beginners grasp on it. To undo the changes I have done I did the microprosser reset and reconfigured it so I can have a fresh start

After this reconfiguration the volume does not seem as loud as it used to at the same volume setting but the overall SQ is good.


Set up is the 791, 2 front channel speakers, a center channel and a sub.

In the settings, under channel level, I noted the following settings

FL –7.5db
C -9db
FR –6db
SW –12db

I feel that if I adjust all levels up evenly I will increase my volume sensitivity but keep the EQ adjustment the same. Is this correct?
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post #1009 of 5095 Old 09-13-2010, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsonka View Post

...
FL –7.5db
C -9db
FR –6db
SW –12db
I feel that if I adjust all levels up evenly I will increase my volume sensitivity but keep the EQ adjustment the same. Is this correct?

You will need to turn down the Vol knob on the sub and rerun until the SW trim is closer to 0 (anything but -/+12 which is max trim). Other than that, you need do nothing but follow the instructions in the Audyssey setup Guide (referenced in the Audyssey section of batpig's guide-see his sig above) as to raising crossovers to 80, if applicable. Raising all your levels up equally won't affect the EQ but is totally unnecessary and will simply take your MV off reference level=MV 0. Remember to not use DynVol when listening critically and that its default setting is max compression=midnight.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #1010 of 5095 Old 09-13-2010, 04:14 AM
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You will need to turn down the Vol knob on the sub

kk.

I love how in the eq set up instructions it simply states to put the subwoofer volume knob in "12 o'clock" position. I thought to myself that instruction was poor because 12 o'clock on the vlume knob could vary per sub. I set it half way during set up
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post #1011 of 5095 Old 09-13-2010, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsonka View Post

..I love how in the eq set up instructions it simply states to put the subwoofer volume knob in "12 o'clock" position. I thought to myself that instruction was poor because 12 o'clock on the vlume knob could vary per sub. I set it half way during set up

Then you are probably close to the correct setting. A good shortcut is to run the minimum # of positions, calculate and check sub trim.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #1012 of 5095 Old 09-13-2010, 07:42 AM
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kool


I am using Klipsch RF-62II front speakers and a RC-52II center

Audyssey set my fronts to "large" but I gather from this form that I should set them to "small" so my sub will play the lower freq.

These speakers sound very good without the sub but guess it could always be better and the sub is there for a purpose

Should my sub output be LFE which is where Audyssey puts it or LFE + Main?
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post #1013 of 5095 Old 09-13-2010, 07:52 AM
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It doesn't matter when the mains are set to SMALL. When the mains are left at LARGE, the LFE+Main setting will send the low bass frequencies from the main speakers to the sub along with the LFE signal (otherwise known as "double bass"). However, when the mains are set to SMALL, the lower frequencies are already sent to the sub, so the LFE and LFE+Main settings both have the same result.

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post #1014 of 5095 Old 09-13-2010, 04:41 PM
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I just got my reciever in for my TV! I got the Denon 1911 and getting ready to hook up all speakers. Until I have time to install all the speakers I am just using the TV Sound. I can not get it to work!

Right now I have the following hooked up.

Blu Ray
Verizon Fios Box
Reciever

HDMI Cable from TV--> Reciever
Blu Ray HDMI --> Reciever
Verizon Fios HDMI--> Reciever

All power running through a monster power box.

Any help would be great!
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post #1015 of 5095 Old 09-13-2010, 04:46 PM
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Open the OSD and go to MANUAL SETUP > HDMI SETUP and set HDMI AUDIO to "TV". (pg 57 of your manual) -- That's it! Audio from HDMI sources should pass through to the TV.

Note that you may need to turn HDMI Control OFF (if it is on) to get this to work.

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post #1016 of 5095 Old 09-13-2010, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Open the OSD and go to MANUAL SETUP > HDMI SETUP and set HDMI AUDIO to "TV". (pg 57 of your manual) -- That's it! Audio from HDMI sources should pass through to the TV.

Note that you may need to turn HDMI Control OFF (if it is on) to get this to work.

Thanks man. You are awesome. I am going to read your manual before I hook up all the speakers!!!!!
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post #1017 of 5095 Old 09-14-2010, 12:20 PM
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I recently, a month ago, bought a Denon 2311 which is a great reciever. But it all startet two weeks after i got it. Playing stereo at higher columes levels makes it go into protection mode.

I have two Dali concept 8 speakers, i think they are 6 ohm.
dali-speakers.com/display_content.php/INT/speakers.html/150/1096

At first i thought it was just me playing way too loud, but at a party i had recently it did it twice. And the volumes was way lower than with my older Denon 1803 which is supposed to be not as good as the 2311.

The light was flashing fast and i had a fan on the reciever everytime i was playing loud music and at the party.

two days ago i tried to fix the wires to see if anything was wrong but everything was at i wa supposed to be. So i tried to test the amplifier at around -10 db where it shut itself down. And it blew. Now its at the dealer who send it to a repair shop.

I just hope its not my fault that the amplifier blew up. I really thought it could withstand loud volumes without breaking. And my speakers, according to what im told, should be easy for the amplifier to play.

So my question is. What is an amplifier of this type able to pull ?
Do you think im goiing to pay for the repair ?
How come my old denon 1803 could play really loud and this cant, which specifications can one look at to determine how loud an amplifier can play ?

At last i have read your forum for a long time with great pleassure, and i thank you for your hard work

Lars Bloch
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post #1018 of 5095 Old 09-14-2010, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloch View Post

I recently, a month ago, bought a Denon 2311 which is a great reciever. But it all startet two weeks after i got it. Playing stereo at higher columes levels makes it go into protection mode...Do you think im goiing to pay for the repair...

Hi Lars. As indicated in your OM troubleshooting section, 0.5 sec flahes mean impedence of speakers too low (those are 6 ohm and should be OK, and are 90 dB sensitivity so should be loud at -10. I am assuming you ran autosetup and that they were hooked up correctly. If those are not new speakers (iow they worked fine with the old AVR), your speaker wires are still under some suspicion. Inspect them again to be sure there are no loose strands or areas where a gap in insulation has allowed an arc, before using them up again. A continuity tester might be helpful for this. The most likely explanation is a faulty amp and in any case you are not responsible for the amp protection circuit's failure and the repair should be covered under warranty.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #1019 of 5095 Old 09-14-2010, 06:39 PM
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I've decided to buy the 1911 to go with my Def Tech surround system and expect it to sound great, should have it hooked up this weekend.

My question is the video quality I can expect. Right now, I have the my Blu Ray LG 390 hooked up directly to my TV as well as the cable box directly to the TV via HDMI. Sound is separately going to my HTIB receiver via digital connections from both sources. With the new Denon, I plan on hooking HDMI's directly from the BD player and cable box into the receiver and one HDMI out to the TV. I know this will also take care of my audio as I won't need the digital hookups as previously, but is the video quality coming from the external sources into the Denon and out to the TV going to be the same quality I am currently getting with the direct TV connections? Is there any polluting or downgrading of the video which will occur or I can expect?

Never had the video going through a receiver before, so would appreciate any feedback on my concerns. Thanks!
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post #1020 of 5095 Old 09-14-2010, 06:58 PM
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You can try it both ways and decide for yourself as the video processing from the 1911 can be set to OFF.

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