*OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 391 / 591 / 1611 Owner's Thread - Page 102 - AVS Forum
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post #3031 of 4687 Old 05-30-2011, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Blakel View Post

hi everyone.

New to the whole thing so please excuse my dopeness..

I have a Denon 391 and Mac Mini all connected to it.

The Mac Mini is connected to SAT/CBL via HDMI and I have a Toslink from the 3.5 Jack and connected to the back of the AVR into the same input (SAT/CBL)

Now in the past I have used an Anolog (RCA) cable to get me my sound and when I went out and got the optical I get no sound.

On the Mac Mini the sound Icon on the top of the status bar to the right it is greyed out and when I use the volume buttons on the keyboard the status of the volume is again all greyed out and wont actually work.

Any Ideas? The Mac seems to KNOW that its connected by Toslink optical but does not like it too well and no audio seems to be going into the AVR.

OK fixed.

After 3 restarts, one finger point and a threat to throw off my 8th floor window, it worked. I did absolutely nothing and its working. Righto!
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post #3032 of 4687 Old 05-31-2011, 04:04 AM
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^^
When you connect HDMI along with either an optical or RCA cable into the same labeled inputs, the HDMI will take priority so in order to get audio from either the optical or RCA, you must change the INPUT MODE setting for SAT/CBL to either "Digital" or "Analog" depending on whether an optical or analog RCA cable is used.

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post #3033 of 4687 Old 06-01-2011, 03:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakel View Post

hi everyone.

New to the whole thing so please excuse my dopeness..

I have a Denon 391 and Mac Mini all connected to it.

The Mac Mini is connected to SAT/CBL via HDMI and I have a Toslink from the 3.5 Jack and connected to the back of the AVR into the same input (SAT/CBL)

Now in the past I have used an Anolog (RCA) cable to get me my sound and when I went out and got the optical I get no sound.

On the Mac Mini the sound Icon on the top of the status bar to the right it is greyed out and when I use the volume buttons on the keyboard the status of the volume is again all greyed out and wont actually work.

Any Ideas? The Mac seems to KNOW that its connected by Toslink optical but does not like it too well and no audio seems to be going into the AVR.

It sounds like you'll need to go in to the Input Setup menu on the Denon where it allows you to assign the Toslink to a specific input. By default it is assigned to the TV input. You'll need to change it to the SAT/CBL input. Check page 31 of the owner's manual for more details.
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post #3034 of 4687 Old 06-02-2011, 07:39 AM
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Just got my 1611 all hooked up and used it while watching TV from my Moto HD DVR box from Comcast last night. So far I am really impressed, I do not need a very loud receiver (wattage wise) but I do notice that I need the volume up to about 50 to 55 to really hear it all and not be so loud as to wake up the baby. I notice a dramatic drop in volume once you go around 45 and below. I may reset the processor and run the auto setup again this time making a better effort in the position selection for the microphone.

Strange thing is that my cable box seems to reset itself every day since I have it hooked up to the 1611 (never happened when it was hooked up to an HDMI switch or directly to TV). So I have to go back into the moto setup menu and change from 720p to 1080i, this is very strange and annoying. I have HDMI control on and I set the cbl/sat HDMI for passthrough so I can watch TV without the 1611 when needed.

I also notice audio dropouts from cable box while I am in the 1611's menu's, but so far (knocks on wood) not while watching TV. I notice the signal must cut out or something when moving through the menu because my cable box shows du1 and the signal cuts out.

I needed a budget AVR because I had a perfectly fine Harmon Kardon AVR but it was a model from 2003/2004 so no HDMI and no HD audio decoding. So I wanted to spend as close to $200 as possible and was able to get the 1611 for a few $$ more than that at Elec Expo over the holiday weekend. Got rid of so many wires and it is nice to only have one cable going to my TV.

I really miss having a switched/non-switched outlet(s) on the back of the AVR, was good for fans, ambient lighting and my gigabit switch.

I have a Moto cable box, Samsung BD player (soon to be a Sony 3D BD player), Xbox 360 and a Wii all connected into the 1611 and then for my TV I have a Sony 55HX800. For my speakers I have Energy CB-5's for fronts, CC-5 for center, JBL satelites for surrounds and a JBL powered sub. I am hoping this AVR will be great for all sources and last me a while.

One thing I was never good at was understanding how to setup these complicated AVR's, the manual is pretty large and sometimes I just don't understand how to do things. Hopefully I will get the hang of it and be able to tweek the settings to my liking.
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post #3035 of 4687 Old 06-02-2011, 02:43 PM
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Not sure if this fits here but the problem is with my AVR591.

Trying to setup HDMI-CEC (Anynet+) with 3 devices, my TV (UN46D6500), a Playstation slim and my AVR. If I turn on the Playstation it turns on the TV but not the AVR, if all 3 devices are on and I power off the TV it turns everything off, however if I turn on the PS3 it does not turn on he receiver and if I turn on the receiver it does not turn on the TV.

Is this correct functionality for HDMI-CEC? What I'm expecting is if I turn on the PS3 it turns on the TV and the AVR and switches to the correct input or if I turn on the receiver it turns on the TV.
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post #3036 of 4687 Old 06-02-2011, 02:59 PM
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^^
Yes, it is correct functionality as the HDMI-CEC feature on the AVR is only designed to turn it OFF. Best option is to use a Harmony remote instead of your other remotes.

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post #3037 of 4687 Old 06-02-2011, 03:50 PM
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Get a Harmony remote. One of the best purchases I've ever made. It makes everything so easy.

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post #3038 of 4687 Old 06-02-2011, 06:58 PM
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So we should turn off that control function all-together (PowerOffControl)? I still need HDMI control on so I can have pass through of my cable box. I wonder if turning that off will help with my cable box resetting, which happened again today, I had to change it back to 1080i again.

And yes I agree, Harmony remotes are fantastic, I have a Harmony One right now. Problem with Harmony is their quality control, I have had three previous one where the volume and channel buttons have stopped working.
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post #3039 of 4687 Old 06-02-2011, 07:05 PM
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^^
No. Your best option is likely to just connect the cable box HDMI directly to the TV with optical from the box to the AVR for surround audio when desired.
This option satisfies your wife's need and should also resolve the box from resetting which is a known issue with some cable boxes.

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post #3040 of 4687 Old 06-02-2011, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
No. Your best option is likely to just connect the cable box HDMI directly to the TV with optical from the box to the AVR for surround audio when desired.
This option satisfies your wife's need and should also resolve the box from resetting which is a known issue with some cable boxes.

That stinks, kinda defeats the purpose of having an HDMI receiver to save on cables. I mean what is the point of having HDMI cables and HDMI receivers if there are all these problems with handshakes, resetting etc...

My TV can only save settings per input, so that kinda sucks for my situation as well. I woud like to have separate settings for all my sources, but using the HDMI AVR I cannot do that unless I add more cables
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post #3041 of 4687 Old 06-03-2011, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


I mean what is the point of having HDMI cables and HDMI receivers if there are all these problems with handshakes, resetting etc...

it's because the point of HDMI was never to make your life easier -- that's just the marketing sell. The real point was to establish digital copyright control over all of your content to try and foil digital piracy... which of course doesn't really stop the pirates, and just makes the consumer's life a pain.

Quote:


My TV can only save settings per input, so that kinda sucks for my situation as well. I woud like to have separate settings for all my sources, but using the HDMI AVR I cannot do that unless I add more cables

sounds like you have contradictory impulses this is a good argument to have more than 1 cable to the TV anyway. Honestly, the "one cable to the TV" thing is nice on the surface but is actually limiting for a lot of applications. Nothing wrong with having 2 or even 3 cables going to the TV. And the addition of a Harmony remote makes the input switching seamless.

batpig's "Denon-to-English Dictionary"
Setup Guide and FAQ
http://batpigworld.com/

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post #3042 of 4687 Old 06-03-2011, 10:20 AM
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I did not realize before I hooked it all up that I would run into a few limitations/hurdles.

I am most likely going to run my cable box directly to TV and then coax or toslink to AVR but keep everything else going through the receiver. I don't play the xbox that often so I can easily change settings as needed when I do. Then I don't have to worry about my cable box resetting all the time.

I like having less wires, so much less clutter behind TV and inside the TV stand.
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post #3043 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 09:31 AM
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Ok, I need some help...

Just purchased a 591 with some Jamo speakers and a Jamo SUB6510 (750W peak). I set it all up last night and the speakers work perfectly, but I'm getting almost no sound from the sub. At 750W it should be vibrating my neighbor's windows, but I have to put my ear right next to it just to hear it

I followed the batpig guide and did a full Audessy setup with no luck. Tried via multiple sources with the same result. All speakers are set to "small" on the receiver

Does anybody have any ideas? Do I just have the receiver set to a wrong setting somewhere?
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post #3044 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 09:47 AM
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What do you mean by your ran Audyssey with "no luck"? Did you get test tones from all the speakers as well as the sub? Do you have the sub plugged in and set to ON on the back of the sub? Do you have the digital coax cable plugged in from the 591 sub preout to the sub?

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post #3045 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 09:53 AM
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Yes, when I ran Audessy I heard some thumping from the sub and it was indeed detected by the receiver. The sub is turned to "ON" and the cord is plugged into the 'subwoofer pre out' on the receiver and plugging the other end into both 'in' and 'out' on the sub produces the same results.

The other three knobs on the back of the sub are set to the following:

Volume: Max db

Cut-off frequency: 150 Hz (which is max, anything less and I can't hear anything from the sub)

Phase: 0
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post #3046 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 09:56 AM
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The sub should only be set at the middle volume or 12 o'clock as the Owner's manual indicates. What did the 591 set the sub trim/channel level to? With all speakers set to SMALL, you should have no crossover settings less than 80hz. Is this the case?

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post #3047 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 10:10 AM
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Just to be safe, I completely reset the receiver's processor to start from scratch, then I made no other changes and ran Audyssey again, calculated and stored the values. Subwoofer was detected again. Speakers were all detected as small and their crossover frequencies are listed as the following:

Front: 110Hz
Center 80 Hz
Surround: 60 Hz

Sub still sucks. When I pull out the sub's cable from the back of the receiver and touch it to a metal surrounding of one of the other inputs, it gives that loud annoying hum so I know the sub isn't blown
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post #3048 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 10:13 AM
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What speakers do you have as those readings are opposite of what would be expected. More importantly what did the 591 set the sub level to after running AUTO SETUP? Also what type audio are you playing .... a DD/DTS 5.1 DVD or BD?

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post #3049 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 10:20 AM
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Speakers are Jamo A340 (4 of em) with a A 3CEN.4 center speaker.

Bass setting on the receiver is set to:

SW mode: LFE
LPF for LFE: 120 Hz

I have tried on multiple modes: DTS, Dolby, etc... and have tried DVDs, Directv, XBOX, etc... bass is weak on all combinations
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post #3050 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 10:38 AM
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You still haven't mentioned what the sub channel level was set to ... go into the AUTO SETUP menu and under Parameter Check read what it set the sub channel to ... +8db, +12db. Where are your speakers physically located? Raise the surround channel crossovers to 80hz.

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post #3051 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 10:43 AM
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Sorry, I misunderstood which value you were asking for...

Sub channel is set to +0.5 dB. Speakers are physically located roughly in the 4 corners of the room, front speakers are each 12 feet from the couch, with the rear speakers about 5 feet. Sub is 11 feet from the listening position

I have changed the crossover frequencies to 80Hz for all speakers and the sub doesn't sound any different at all

EDIT: When I go into speaker setup and then channel level then test tone start, I can turn the sub up to +12.0 dB and it certainly starts shaking the walls... Is the sub channel level just set too low by the Audyssey (+0.5dB)?? If so, how do I change this?
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post #3052 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 10:54 AM
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Actually you never want to "lower" a crossover, rather only raise them. So return the Front L/R back up to 110hz. Also, the sub setting is perfect which means it should be fine. You may want to try doing the sub crawl for better sub placement. Although I realize you're restricted by the layout of your room ... ideally the front speakers should be about ear height (when seated) and angled towards the main listening position on the couch. The "side" surrounds should be either directly on either side of the couch or at most only 2' back and either way about 2'-3' above ear height rather than in the back of the room where the "rear" speakers in a 7.1 setup would go.

The 591 sets the sub to where it should be as the movie sound mixer wanted you to hear it. If you prefer more bass, you are certainly free to use the CH Level button on your remote to increase the sub channel level higher. Although I would suggest you try listening at the current level for a couple of weeks first before raising it. Also, if you do decide to reposition the sub or any of the speakers, you'll want to rerun AUTO SETUP again.

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post #3053 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 10:58 AM
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Ok, I moved the crossover settings back. And I can move the speakers per your suggestion, but the speakers honestly sound fine right now. I just can't get my sub to work. I thank you for your time and effort helping me so far. Any other suggestions on the sub?
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post #3054 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 11:14 AM
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Other than what I just added in my previous post (ie. sub crawl) ... no.

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post #3055 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 11:17 AM
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Ok, thanks again for your help
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post #3056 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biff6789 View Post

I just can't get my sub to work.
...
Any other suggestions on the sub?

Hi biff6789, maybe the sub can't produce bass but only a hum. Suggest to connect a player (iPhone/iTouch, CD, or DVD player) directly to sub RCA input and play a heavy bass tune.
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post #3057 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 11:52 AM
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^^
When I plug in a DVD player's audio outputs (red and white) right into the back of the sub I'm getting bass (way more than I got when wired to the receiver)

Something is up with the 591 receiver (either the receiver itself, the settings even though I fully reset the processor, or the way it's wired to the sub which is hard to screw up since there is only one input on the back of the receiver)
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post #3058 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biff6789 View Post

^^
Yes, when I ran Audessy I heard some thumping from the sub and it was indeed detected by the receiver. The sub is turned to "ON" and the cord is plugged into the 'subwoofer pre out' on the receiver and plugging the other end into both 'in' and 'out' on the sub produces the same results.

The other three knobs on the back of the sub are set to the following:

Volume: Max db

Cut-off frequency: 150 Hz (which is max, anything less and I can't hear anything from the sub)

Phase: 0

Do I read this correctly, you have a sub cable connected the SUB6510 both IN & OUT?

The sub cable should only be connected to SUB6510 IN only (LFE).
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post #3059 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Do I read this correctly, you have a sub cable connected the SUB6510 both IN & OUT?

The sub cable should only be connected to SUB6510 IN only (LFE).

No, not at the same time. I tried them one-at-a-time into each, but still got the same result

HOWEVER, it appears I may have found the solution!! The cable that was running from the sub to the receiver may have been bad. I tried a different one and it still didn't work quite right, then I flipped the cable around the other way (reversed the plug directions) and I now have bass!

Not sure if it's operating at full capacity, so I'm testing it out with a few DVDs (Terminator Salvation, Star Wars, Gladiator, et al) but at least I now have bass Thanks again to you all

Now, seeing as I used Audyssey, which settings should I set the knobs on the back of the SUBWOOFER to?

I have Volume (dB), Frequency cut-off (goes from 40 - 150Hz, note that 40 misses a lot of bass and 150 seems a little washed out even though I thought you were supposed to set it to the max which would be 150), and phase (0 - 180)?
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post #3060 of 4687 Old 06-04-2011, 02:03 PM
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If you review the Audyssey Setup Guide link in my sig, you'll note is says:

Volume: 12 o'clock or middle position
Phase: 0
Frequency: 150hz

Just run it for 1 position. Check to see what the sub gets set to in the Parameter Check menu. If it's -12db, you'll want to lower the volume to about 10 o'clock. If it's +12db, you'll want to raise the volume to about 2 or 3 o'clock. Then run AUTO SETUP again for 1 position. As long as it's off of either +/-12db, you're good to go, although closer to 0db gives you more room to increase or decrease as preferred with the remote.

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