*OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 391 / 591 / 1611 Owner's Thread - Page 163 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4861 of 4890 Old 09-23-2015, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Also try powering off and unplugging the 591 for about 10 minutes. Then power on the TV, wait 4-5 seconds, the 591, wait 4-5 seconds, then the cable box/BDP. Also ensure on the 591, the "Decode Mode" is set to "Auto" and not "PCM."
Thanks. Will try all that tonight as well. To add to my uncertainty, I found the following about the BR player I'm using. Hope it isn't trying to be too smart and causing the problem. If the 591 Input Mode and Decode Mode are both set to AUTO the player should be bitstreaming I believe.

Auto is Sony's way to indicate it will check the content, then check the destination and if they agree it sends the content as presented. So if you are plugged into a TV with 2ch audio, that is what the BD player sends. If the AVR accepts DTS-MA, it will send that. When sending PCM only, most devices get sent DD 2.0, but not always.

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post #4862 of 4890 Old 09-24-2015, 05:57 PM
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Also try powering off and unplugging the 591 for about 10 minutes. Then power on the TV, wait 4-5 seconds, the 591, wait 4-5 seconds, then the cable box/BDP.

Since I had been through the settings on everything at least three times, I tried the above recommendation first. Everything was back to normal. Guess I can put the hammer away.........
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post #4863 of 4890 Old 09-30-2015, 01:59 PM
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Good afternoon all.

I am having what looks to be a rather common problem some other users are experiencing. I can hear audio when using “all HDMI” but I can’t see any picture when using this receiver. Here is my gear:

Samsung PN50C550 monitor
Denon AVR-591
Standard AT&T U-Verse DVR
Sony BDP-S570 BD player
Polk RTi A7 (x2)
Polk PSW125 subwoofer

Previously, I had used this Denon unit to pass audio from my PC via a 3.5mm minijack/RCA adapter to two Polk RTi A7s and the Polk PSW125 subwoofer. I have had no issues with the audio. However, I bought this receiver knowing one day I would like to use it to switch between multiple sources using audio AND video.

I have performed the “soft reset” by unplugging everything for ten minutes (overnight, actually) and have also reset the receiver by holding down the three face buttons. Neither worked. The cables I have used have worked fine in previous applications (I am using decent-quality Monoprice cables) but I tried other cables (which also work in other applications) and those do not work either. Of course, the U-Verse box and the BD player both work fine via HDMI when plugged directly into the Samsung TV. I have tried using multiple HDMI inputs on my TV as well as multiple inputs on the receiver, same story: I get audio but no video.

So what is the deal here, am I screwed? Is this some HDCP nonsense? I can’t blame JUST the Sony BD or JUST the U-Verse box because both exhibit the same symptoms: no video. Hell, I can’t even get any of the OSD stuff to display from the receiver to the TV since I simply can’t get ANY video output from the receiver to the TV using HDMI.

I am at a loss here. I have had this receiver for a while now and I know it was made in ~2010. I know I bought the BD player a couple years after I bought the receiver and surely the U-Verse box is newer than the receiver as well. Unfortunately, I have no other HDMI receivers to test with (or any other receivers at all, actually). So what do I do? Is there a way to pass video through this receiver using anything but HDMI?

I MIGHT be able to pass JUST audio from the U-Verse box and BD to the receiver and pipe separate video from these same components directly to the TV. But this is a huge PITA and complicates what SHOULD be a simple “plug-and-play” operation. My setup could not be any simpler.

Thank you for your help. This is incredibly frustrating. My setup is far from complicated (one TV, one receiver, two speakers, one subwoofer, a cable box, and a BD player; all HDMI, preferably). I thought as a community we gave up (had shoved down our throats; please pardon my cynicism) “a little bit” of freedom by accepting HDCP as an everyday thing but gained the convenience of “just using one plug” to hook everything up. At least in my case, it looks like it will not be that simple.
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post #4864 of 4890 Old 09-30-2015, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hikeskool View Post
Good afternoon all.

I am having what looks to be a rather common problem some other users are experiencing. I can hear audio when using “all HDMI” but I can’t see any picture when using this receiver. Here is my gear:

Samsung PN50C550 monitor
Denon AVR-591
Standard AT&T U-Verse DVR
Sony BDP-S570 BD player
Polk RTi A7 (x2)
Polk PSW125 subwoofer

Previously, I had used this Denon unit to pass audio from my PC via a 3.5mm minijack/RCA adapter to two Polk RTi A7s and the Polk PSW125 subwoofer. I have had no issues with the audio. However, I bought this receiver knowing one day I would like to use it to switch between multiple sources using audio AND video.

I have performed the “soft reset” by unplugging everything for ten minutes (overnight, actually) and have also reset the receiver by holding down the three face buttons. Neither worked. The cables I have used have worked fine in previous applications (I am using decent-quality Monoprice cables) but I tried other cables (which also work in other applications) and those do not work either. Of course, the U-Verse box and the BD player both work fine via HDMI when plugged directly into the Samsung TV. I have tried using multiple HDMI inputs on my TV as well as multiple inputs on the receiver, same story: I get audio but no video.

So what is the deal here, am I screwed? Is this some HDCP nonsense? I can’t blame JUST the Sony BD or JUST the U-Verse box because both exhibit the same symptoms: no video. Hell, I can’t even get any of the OSD stuff to display from the receiver to the TV since I simply can’t get ANY video output from the receiver to the TV using HDMI.

I am at a loss here. I have had this receiver for a while now and I know it was made in ~2010. I know I bought the BD player a couple years after I bought the receiver and surely the U-Verse box is newer than the receiver as well. Unfortunately, I have no other HDMI receivers to test with (or any other receivers at all, actually). So what do I do? Is there a way to pass video through this receiver using anything but HDMI?

I MIGHT be able to pass JUST audio from the U-Verse box and BD to the receiver and pipe separate video from these same components directly to the TV. But this is a huge PITA and complicates what SHOULD be a simple “plug-and-play” operation. My setup could not be any simpler.

Thank you for your help. This is incredibly frustrating. My setup is far from complicated (one TV, one receiver, two speakers, one subwoofer, a cable box, and a BD player; all HDMI, preferably). I thought as a community we gave up (had shoved down our throats; please pardon my cynicism) “a little bit” of freedom by accepting HDCP as an everyday thing but gained the convenience of “just using one plug” to hook everything up. At least in my case, it looks like it will not be that simple.
Not sure what "3" buttons you held down, as there are only "2" buttons to hold down as noted in the Owner's manual and image below. The power button is simply depressed and released.



If still no joy, I would suggest connecting the AVR to another TV (take it to a neighbor's house if you have to connecting to ideally other than a Samsung TV) to see if the issue is with the Samsung TV.
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post #4865 of 4890 Old 09-30-2015, 07:18 PM
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Yes, thank you. I went through that process and nothing helped. I will try to find another television to test the receiver.

Assuming I have no success with another television, what might be the problem? Thanks again.
Possibly the HDMI board went bad. Hard to say.

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post #4866 of 4890 Old 09-30-2015, 07:20 PM
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Possibly the HDMI board went bad. Hard to say.
HDMI board? On the receiver, I assume?
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post #4867 of 4890 Old 09-30-2015, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by hikeskool View Post
HDMI board? On the receiver, I assume?
Yes.

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post #4868 of 4890 Old 09-30-2015, 07:27 PM
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Yes.
There is probably no way to economically get this diagnosed or repaired, I assume.
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post #4869 of 4890 Old 10-01-2015, 06:35 PM
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There is probably no way to economically get this diagnosed or repaired, I assume.
Correct. Replacing the HDMI board (if available) would likely cost as much as what you paid for the AVR.

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post #4870 of 4890 Old 10-05-2015, 01:53 PM
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1611 Display Not Working

The display on my 1611 stopped working the other day. The green light still turns on when I power it up. I have tried the dimmer feature and resetting the motherboard and no luck.

Is the screen shot? Did it over heat and cause some solder to melt? or is there a fuse for the display somewhere? Thanks in advance for the help!!
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post #4871 of 4890 Old 10-05-2015, 02:00 PM
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The display on my 1611 stopped working the other day. The green light still turns on when I power it up. I have tried the dimmer feature and resetting the motherboard and no luck.

Is the screen shot? Did it over heat and cause some solder to melt? or is there a fuse for the display somewhere? Thanks in advance for the help!!
sorry, Microprocessor not motherboard
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post #4872 of 4890 Old 10-05-2015, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by weiss21 View Post
The display on my 1611 stopped working the other day. The green light still turns on when I power it up. I have tried the dimmer feature and resetting the motherboard and no luck.

Is the screen shot? Did it over heat and cause some solder to melt? or is there a fuse for the display somewhere? Thanks in advance for the help!!
The issue has cropped up on a few other models requiring repair.

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post #4873 of 4890 Old 10-28-2015, 03:10 PM
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Question Replacing My MCS 95 Sub from this system

I loved this system until the Sub stopped working. I'm looking to buy a simple replacement for it, and I was wondering if this would work:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...oofer--300-628

With a splitter, I could still run from the the Sub Pre-out on the 591 to the RCA Line In on the Dayton, right? Would it still work with the Audyssey set-up?

Any thoughts welcome. Thanks in Advance.
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post #4874 of 4890 Old 10-28-2015, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
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I loved this system until the Sub stopped working.
Have you checked to see if the problem is with the sub or with the receiver?

Quote:
With a splitter, I could still run from the the Sub Pre-out on the 591 to the RCA Line In on the Dayton, right? Would it still work with the Audyssey set-up?
My sub has the same RCA input jacks and it works just fine hooked up that way. Set the level at 50% on the sub and then after running Audyssey check to make sure the level didn't max out at 10 on the Denon. If it did, raise level on sub and run Audyssey again.
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post #4875 of 4890 Old 10-29-2015, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sometown View Post
I loved this system until the Sub stopped working. I'm looking to buy a simple replacement for it, and I was wondering if this would work:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...oofer--300-628

With a splitter, I could still run from the the Sub Pre-out on the 591 to the RCA Line In on the Dayton, right? Would it still work with the Audyssey set-up?

Any thoughts welcome. Thanks in Advance.
Before replacing your sub ... what have you done to determine if the issue is really with the sub? With the sub powered on, remove the cable from the 591 sub pre-out and rub your finger over the tip. Hear static? If not, then either the sub or the cable itself has gone bad. Try replacing the cable (you can use a regular rca red/white cable as a test). Still hear no static? Then it is the sub.

Before replacing the sub, the article below seems to describe a possible way to fix the sub if your issue is similar ...

http://www.fixya.com/support/t107541...won_39_t_power

If the above does not work for you, then the Dayton sub should work, however read the Owner's manual to determine if you need to use a splitter or can simply connect to the "L" input on the Dayton which is true with many subs (ie. dual input may not be required). Also no reason it shouldn't work any different than your current sub regarding Audyssey setup. Set the gain on the sub to about 10 o'clock prior to running Audyssey. As long as the sub isn't set to -12db, you're good to go, otherwise, if set to -12db, lower the sub gain to about 8 or 9 o'clock and run Audyssey again until the sub level results in < -12db. Once the Audyssey settings have been stored, most find the sub to be a little weak, so you'll want to go into Manual Setup - Test Tones and bump the sub up about +5db (eg. if set to -7db after Audyssey, raise to -2db).

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post #4876 of 4890 Old 10-29-2015, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Before replacing your sub ... what have you done to determine if the issue is really with the sub? With the sub powered on, remove the cable from the 591 sub pre-out and rub your finger over the tip. Hear static? If not, then either the sub or the cable itself has gone bad. Try replacing the cable (you can use a regular rca red/white cable as a test). Still hear no static? Then it is the sub.

Before replacing the sub, the article below seems to describe a possible way to fix the sub if your issue is similar ...

http://www.fixya.com/support/t107541...won_39_t_power

If the above does not work for you, then the Dayton sub should work, however read the Owner's manual to determine if you need to use a splitter or can simply connect to the "L" input on the Dayton which is true with many subs (ie. dual input may not be required). Also no reason it shouldn't work any different than your current sub regarding Audyssey setup. Set the gain on the sub to about 10 o'clock prior to running Audyssey. As long as the sub isn't set to -12db, you're good to go, otherwise, if set to -12db, lower the sub gain to about 8 or 9 o'clock and run Audyssey again until the sub level results in < -12db. Once the Audyssey settings have been stored, most find the sub to be a little weak, so you'll want to go into Manual Setup - Test Tones and bump the sub up about +5db (eg. if set to -7db after Audyssey, raise to -2db).
So, I had already removed the panel and determined that the Z3 diode is fried, but I don't have any soldering tools and probably not enough patience! That's why I'm thinking of going with replacement. Thanks!
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post #4877 of 4890 Old 10-29-2015, 09:35 AM
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Have you checked to see if the problem is with the sub or with the receiver?



My sub has the same RCA input jacks and it works just fine hooked up that way. Set the level at 50% on the sub and then after running Audyssey check to make sure the level didn't max out at 10 on the Denon. If it did, raise level on sub and run Audyssey again.
Thanks for this, yeah, the sub won't power on, so I removed the rear panel and could see brownish (burn?) marks under the Z3 diode.
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post #4878 of 4890 Old 10-29-2015, 04:51 PM
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Thanks for this, yeah, the sub won't power on, so I removed the rear panel and could see brownish (burn?) marks under the Z3 diode.
Call the place you're buying the sub from. They have excellent customer service and may be able to sell you a replacement amplifier for your sub. Perhaps no soldering is required to replace it. Unless the sub is old and the foam surround is failing.
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post #4879 of 4890 Old 11-07-2015, 08:38 AM
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Hello. I was reading this tread find some answers but still I have some doubs about my system. I Have an denon AVR1611 I have connected an 2 main 4 ohm speakers (Jamo classic 6) and and center 8 ohm. I’m have a small room and maximum loudness I have used is around 40% of volume . Is this configuration is safe the for my avr and speakers. I’m thinking about connecting surrounds with will hav the also 8 ohm. What do you think about my system? Thanks in advance

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post #4880 of 4890 Old 11-07-2015, 09:03 PM
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Hello. I was reading this tread find some answers but still I have some doubs about my system. I Have an denon AVR1611 I have connected an 2 main 4 ohm speakers (Jamo classic 6) and and center 8 ohm. I’m have a small room and maximum loudness I have used is around 40% of volume . Is this configuration is safe the for my avr and speakers. I’m thinking about connecting surrounds with will hav the also 8 ohm. What do you think about my system? Thanks in advance

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If the 1611 isn't shutting down in protection mode, then yes, it is safe.
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post #4881 of 4890 Old 11-08-2015, 12:01 AM
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If the 1611 isn't shutting down in protection mode, then yes, it is safe.
Denon is working sometimes 4-8 h daily. I watch TV and films from PC in mkv(DD and DTS). I have run this configuration about 3 weeks from now. So do you think that could something wrong with Avr or the speakers are no 100% of 4 ohm?

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post #4882 of 4890 Old 11-09-2015, 05:28 AM
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Denon is working sometimes 4-8 h daily. I watch TV and films from PC in mkv(DD and DTS). I have run this configuration about 3 weeks from now. So do you think that could something wrong with Avr or the speakers are no 100% of 4 ohm?

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There should be no problem mixing 4-ohm speakers with 8-ohm speakers.

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post #4883 of 4890 Old 11-10-2015, 01:43 PM
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Thanks for your opinion

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post #4884 of 4890 Old 11-20-2015, 08:50 PM
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Farewell

I ended up selling my Denon 591 today that I've loved and enjoyed for 4+ years, and upgraded to a Yamaha Aventage RX-A750 for an amazing price of $399. I'll be getting it on Monday 11/23.

I'm curious how the YPAO compared to Audessey.

Thanks to everyone on this thread for their tips, help, and advice!

Last edited by abuhafsa; 11-20-2015 at 08:51 PM. Reason: typo
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post #4885 of 4890 Old 11-25-2015, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by abuhafsa View Post
I ended up selling my Denon 591 today that I've loved and enjoyed for 4+ years, and upgraded to a Yamaha Aventage RX-A750 for an amazing price of $399. I'll be getting it on Monday 11/23.

I'm curious how the YPAO compared to Audessey.

Thanks to everyone on this thread for their tips, help, and advice!
Update:

I ended up absolutely hating the Yamaha RX-A750BL. Sounded dull with poor imaging. Dialog came out unnatural and 'metallic'. Calibrated using YPAO and tried all of their settings including Cinema DSP 3D but sounded worse than the 591 to my ears.

So I ended up exchanging it for a Denon X1200W for $29 more - and Wow! The difference is like night and day. The Audyssey XT did a really good job. Now the dialog is crisp and natural and the bass is smooth and punchy!

I'd always wondered if Audyssey was a gimmick but this experience confirms it isn't. The Denon + Audyssey combo is a differentiator in my book. I plan to stick with Denon from now on.
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post #4886 of 4890 Old 11-25-2015, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abuhafsa View Post
Update:

I ended up absolutely hating the Yamaha RX-A750BL. Sounded dull with poor imaging. Dialog came out unnatural and 'metallic'. Calibrated using YPAO and tried all of their settings including Cinema DSP 3D but sounded worse than the 591 to my ears.

So I ended up exchanging it for a Denon X1200W for $29 more - and Wow! The difference is like night and day. The Audyssey XT did a really good job. Now the dialog is crisp and natural and the bass is smooth and punchy!

I'd always wondered if Audyssey was a gimmick but this experience confirms it isn't. The Denon + Audyssey combo is a differentiator in my book. I plan to stick with Denon from now on.
goodbye....and welcome back.
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post #4887 of 4890 Old 11-26-2015, 11:29 AM
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Hi everyone !!!

Does anyone knows what are the difference between modes 1, 2 and 3 in RESTORE mode for Denos AVR 1611??

Same for Dynamic Volume modes Day, Night ane Evening.

I am looking for some sort of frequency response,explanation ot whatever help me understand how to use these functions.

I used to set ON both Dynamic volume and RESTORE as well, but I have finally realizad that it was better to use only RESTORER. Al leas for my personal like , it was the best way to use my AVR1611.

Thank you !!!
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post #4888 of 4890 Old 04-12-2016, 10:45 AM
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Red face Enabling volume OSD via HDMI!!!

I was just about to replace my AVR-591 with the new DENONx3200 (~$800) to get (a) a separate zone for headphones and (b) volume OSD via HDMI.

On a lark, I purchased the "ViewHD Extractor Optical Converter (VHD-H2HSAs)" from Amazon for about $30. I connected my headphones to the RCA out jacks, my TV to the HDMI out jack, and the AVR-591 to the HDMI in jack.

Then, in the AVR-591, I configured the "Menu => Manual => HDMI Setup =>" screen as follows:

Code:
Auto Lipsync: ON
HDMI Audio Out: Amp
HDMI Control: ON
Standby Source: LAST
PowerOffControl: Video
I'm sure some of the settings above are not necessary but I'm not messing with them! Heck, perhaps the ViewHD Extractor is not needed. Anyway, I am now getting nice volume controls displayed on my TV from all my HDMI sources! To enable headphones, I simply turn the AVR-591 off. After about 30 seconds the video comes back on the TV and sound is now coming out of my headphones. To enable sound back to the speakers, I simply turn the AVR-591 back on.
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post #4889 of 4890 Old 04-17-2016, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by funkecrates View Post
Hello everyone I am hoping someone can help me. I am noticing several screen freezes/ bitmap looking images and audio laging behind video on my AVR 591. I think it may be something with my Uverse connection however it may be something with my AVR 591. What would you guys recommend I do to trouble shoot the Denon AVR?
Ok so now I reset my device and there is no audio...guess I have to dig out the manual and figure out how to get sound...smdh
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post #4890 of 4890 Old 04-17-2016, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by funkecrates View Post
Ok so now I reset my device and there is no audio...guess I have to dig out the manual and figure out how to get sound...smdh
What is the source device? HDMI? Analog? Does the TUNER work?

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Think you have a defective AVR? Owner's manual - Factory reset 4-5 times in a row.
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