Pioneer VSX-1120 TXH HDMI V1.4 Receiver Owners' Thread - Page 168 - AVS Forum
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post #5011 of 5040 Old 03-14-2014, 02:24 PM
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Am I the only one who thinks it's silly that after all these years they still can't release an android app that works with this receiver?

despite it launching with an ios app...
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post #5012 of 5040 Old 03-14-2014, 02:30 PM
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If it makes you feel better, the iOS app never worked. smile.gif

The more things change, the more they stay the same.

Snake Plissken

 

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post #5013 of 5040 Old 03-14-2014, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoglog View Post

Am I the only one who thinks it's silly that after all these years they still can't release an android app that works with this receiver?

despite it launching with an ios app...
You can buy some other apps that work with this receiver for Android just fine.
I am using iControlAVA for my android device and it works well.
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post #5014 of 5040 Old 03-22-2014, 10:27 AM
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I am also frustrated they have never released an Android app. Even more frustrating is the lack of punch this receiver has provided. I recently brought my 1120 into a custom speaker shop and had them compare it to a 30 year old Yamaha amp they use to test their speakers, and at -3db, the 1120 sounded flat and about 1/2 the volume of the Yamaha which was only about 1/4 open. I even did a factory reset as I figured a setting was causing this issue. The source was a Maranz reference CD player connected to the CD input through reference RCA cables. With how great the reviews have been on this receiver, I still feel like I must be doing something wrong. Any suggestions, your help is greatly appreciated!
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post #5015 of 5040 Old 03-22-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elvisahmed View Post

You can buy some other apps that work with this receiver for Android just fine.
I am using iControlAVA for my android device and it works well.

Does iControlAVA allow for NAS playback?
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post #5016 of 5040 Old 03-22-2014, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by esfan_adam View Post

Does iControlAVA allow for NAS playback?
I assume you mean Network Attach Storage from NAS? I am not sure it does though I don't use any sources for music listening via network device other than the whats on TV. You can browse the internet radio channels via the app so I assume it would work the same way for the NAS as it does take you to sub menu.
The screen shot here shows what it looks like on an iPod device. The channels are displayed on the TV though and not on the phone.
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post #5017 of 5040 Old 03-22-2014, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esfan_adam View Post

I am also frustrated they have never released an Android app. Even more frustrating is the lack of punch this receiver has provided. I recently brought my 1120 into a custom speaker shop and had them compare it to a 30 year old Yamaha amp they use to test their speakers, and at -3db, the 1120 sounded flat and about 1/2 the volume of the Yamaha which was only about 1/4 open. I even did a factory reset as I figured a setting was causing this issue. The source was a Maranz reference CD player connected to the CD input through reference RCA cables. With how great the reviews have been on this receiver, I still feel like I must be doing something wrong. Any suggestions, your help is greatly appreciated!

Quote:
Originally Posted by elvisahmed View Post

I assume you mean Network Attach Storage from NAS? I am not sure it does though I don't use any sources for music listening via network device other than the whats on TV. You can browse the internet radio channels via the app so I assume it would work the same way for the NAS as it does take you to sub menu.
The screen shot here shows what it looks like on an iPod device. The channels are displayed on the TV though and not on the phone.

Yes that is what I was referring to by NAS. I couldn't find the screenshot?

Also, I know you have long been a fan of the 1120, any suggestions to my above question with regards to lack of what seems to be full power?
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post #5018 of 5040 Old 03-22-2014, 12:19 PM
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The link didn't paste I guess you can look at it on the app on google play store. Its the last screen shot on the app page.
I assume you mean bass by punch? Hmm I had bass control issues on my Sub well initially (I was comparing it to a Denon 2808Ci that I upgraded from) I resolved this by changing the location and turning on the bass boost on the Sub and cross over. It sounds fine now. Are you using the calibration via mic setting? I always add some db in the rear speakers for cable sources and bass boost is known issues for all receivers from what I have read.
I have satellite speakers (KEF 3005) so they are not power hungry by any means. Though this receiver has enough power to push the 8 ohm receivers to levels before your ears call uncle. Can you expand on what the issue is? If its not the bass issue and you are playing just stereo sound you know you can go above the 0 db level. I also am pretty sure the 30 year old Yamaha is a stereo receiver how many speakers are you running on the 1120? Switch to the stereo mode to do an apples to apples comparison.
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post #5019 of 5040 Old 03-22-2014, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elvisahmed View Post

The link didn't paste I guess you can look at it on the app on google play store. Its the last screen shot on the app page.
I assume you mean bass by punch? Hmm I had bass control issues on my Sub well initially (I was comparing it to a Denon 2808Ci that I upgraded from) I resolved this by changing the location and turning on the bass boost on the Sub and cross over. It sounds fine now. Are you using the calibration via mic setting? I always add some db in the rear speakers for cable sources and bass boost is known issues for all receivers from what I have read.
I have satellite speakers (KEF 3005) so they are not power hungry by any means. Though this receiver has enough power to push the 8 ohm receivers to levels before your ears call uncle. Can you expand on what the issue is? If its not the bass issue and you are playing just stereo sound you know you can go above the 0 db level. I also am pretty sure the 30 year old Yamaha is a stereo receiver how many speakers are you running on the 1120? Switch to the stereo mode to do an apples to apples comparison.

I meant overall loudness off the speakers, clarity and volume level. We were just testing it in a mono setup to one 8" 8ohm Solus Audio speaker. I had the input set to CD, Front Right speaker connection. I do believe the display said "stereo", but I did not change any settings. I even took it to +12 and while it got louder, yet still not as loud as the Yamaha, the clarity on the Pioneer suffered. At +12 I am worried the amp will overheat in no time. I just know I must be doing something wrong, I truly believe it is a great amp but just disappointed at the moment.
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post #5020 of 5040 Old 03-22-2014, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esfan_adam View Post

I meant overall loudness off the speakers, clarity and volume level. We were just testing it in a mono setup to one 8" 8ohm Solus Audio speaker. I had the input set to CD, Front Right speaker connection. I do believe the display said "stereo", but I did not change any settings. I even took it to +12 and while it got louder, yet still not as loud as the Yamaha, the clarity on the Pioneer suffered. At +12 I am worried the amp will overheat in no time. I just know I must be doing something wrong, I truly believe it is a great amp but just disappointed at the moment.
So you haven't ran the calibration with the included mic? I would run the auto calib and try again. I doubt you can strain the receiver with just two speakers hooked up. I am by no means an expert on speakers so cam't comment on the set you described. As for the Yamaha outperforming the Pio I am not surprised as its an old AVR and stereo one at that. There is a loudness button somewhere on the remote as well if I recall (I use harmony and don't listen to music much so have never used it) try fiddling with that a bit and see what happens. To summarize
a) run auto calib with the mic. (see what you speakers are set as Large or small if you have sub they should be set to small)
b) try boosting the audio with loudness
c) if that doesn't work try manually pushing the db on on left and right.
This is a decent AVR and for the price I got it was hard to beat. If you don't have an option to return then you can always go the separates route I suppose.
Good Luck
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post #5021 of 5040 Old 04-03-2014, 10:32 AM
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Hope some helpful soul reads this. Please give me, or provide a link on how to set up my SACD analog IC's out to this 1120 receiver. I want SACD MULTICHANNEL. I do not want PCM conversion. What am I not understanding? Does this unit not have sacd pass through? Do I need some kind of switch for my subwoofer to playback hdmi movies. I have tried several times since owning this receiver, and am not "getting it".
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post #5022 of 5040 Old 04-03-2014, 11:16 AM
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Does this receiver have multichannel analog inputs? It doesn't look like it from the specifications.
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post #5023 of 5040 Old 04-03-2014, 11:48 AM
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No, it does not, and I could kick myself two years ago, for not noticing this!
I have been pm'ing with an AVS member about using the coax digital or toslink out of my Pioneer DV-563A player, and he thinks I should get MC. But neither do I, nor the people at SACD.net think this will achieve dsd two channel, or MC channel output. Perhaps a newer player like an Oppo, or Denon. But would the 1120 convert the dsd to pcm? Right now, I am mad at myself for not getting it RIGHT two years ago, and for putting so much effort into a dead format. What inspired me was the industry's newest half hearted attempt with using these two formats and putting them oh high fidelity pure audio on blu-ray. Some of these sound fantastic! But they are charging too much, poor distribution, and using poor sources with little or no recording information will surely kill this little niche market as well. I'm going to make a sandwich, have a cup of tea, and dig up my old Technics receiver that HAS the analog mc inputs. I guess I will just have to get a switcher for ALL my speaker runs to do this. Adding to all the stereo crap in my small living room. Sign me, one very unhappy music man right now, and thanks for the posting.
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post #5024 of 5040 Old 04-06-2014, 11:34 AM
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I need some assistance getting internet radio stations through my 1120. My computer is connected (wirelessly) to the receiver, so no problem there. I can get an internet station to play on my computer, so I then copy the station's URL into the Internet Radio Setting Page and click on Update, but I get connection NG. I have some old stations programmed into the receiver, and when I click on them, they work. So I know the issue is finding URLs that work with the receiver.

Why do certain URL's that work on my computer fail to work with the receiver? Do I need to alter the URL somehow to make it work with the receiver? I"ve noticed that many of the stations that work on the receiver end in .pls. The stations that I want to add do not.

Maybe an easier question is whether any of you know the urls of some good classic rock stations that you know work with the receiver. I used to listen to Absolute Classic Rock UK, but they stopped streaming to the US.

Thanks.
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post #5025 of 5040 Old 04-12-2014, 01:01 PM
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I've been searching for an answer on this one, but can't seem to find it. What I want to do is hook up a chromecast to one of the HDMI inputs and output just audio to Zone 2 which I have wired to outside speakers. I tried using the Video and TV/SAT inputs, setting the HDMI input to input 3 which is where I plugged in the chromecast and have not been able to get any sound.

My old solution for having the independant audio was to use RCA cables to my phone and play from that, but I'd really rather use the chromecast as that would allow me to control the music more easily from my phone. Unless i'm missing something, my only option seems to get an HDMI and analog converter and use the input I know is working. Any ideas?
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post #5026 of 5040 Old 04-26-2014, 01:37 PM
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Can someone clarify the program format indicators on the front panel (p. 13 of the manual)? The description is "light to indicate the channels to which digital signals are being input." I'm asking because (at least) one of our cable channels shows 5.1 being input, but I only hear 2.1. Nothing is output through the center or surrounds, so I'm trying to determine where the issue is. Other channels appear the same on the front panel and do correctly output 5.1. Thanks.
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post #5027 of 5040 Old 04-27-2014, 03:35 AM
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^^ It sometimes happens that a stereo signal is trapped in a DD 5.1 package at the source. There is nothing the end user can do about that, as the signal is genuine 5.1, with the center and surrounds all silent. Any sound from the sub is likely the result of bass management redirecting low frequencies from the L/R channels.
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post #5028 of 5040 Old 04-27-2014, 12:39 PM
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So I have had my 1120 for 3 years (?), and have had no real problems. However, about a week or two ago it stopped connecting to the network and internet.
Network setting page shows an ip address, but it won't see internet radio, and the app on my ipad and iphone stopped working.
I restarted my router,
reseated the cat 6 connection
ran a new cat 6 run
restarted the receiver
and still, it gets an ip address in the proper range, but will not play nice on the network

NOTE: there is nothing new on my network since the 1120 lost its network ability,
no new routers
no new switches
no new clients

Anyone have any ideas?

DirecT*
HR34-700 - 55" Panasonic TC-P55GT50 plasma HDMI/ ARC
Panasonic DMP-BDT220
Pioneer VSX-1120 7.1 Cambridge Sound Works Ensemble 1 - front, S300 - surround back, Center Stage - center, Polk RM7 - surround side, and Bass Cube 8
Router: Linksys EA4500
Verizon FiOs Quantum 50/35
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post #5029 of 5040 Old 05-19-2014, 07:47 PM
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Just seeing this. One idea would be to ask what order you powered down and then reconnected these devices in? Another idea is whether you bypassed all possible switches (and other devices) to try and isolate whether placing an ultra-simplified path into the VSX, with no confounding variables of any kind, might tell you something. Another similar idea is to unseat the VSX and move it elsewhere (a friend with known stable paths) and see if the VSX responds differently there.

Every once in a while, completely inexplicably, things actually go according to plan.
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post #5030 of 5040 Old 06-28-2014, 12:18 PM
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Finally got a network cable to my 1120.

It works....slowly. Pretty slow to connect when you change the channel. But that's about like changing HDMI sources...it takes awhile for it to switch from say, XBox to PS3.

Now, for this internet radio: How the hell do you find links that you can put into the receiver? It really sucks that there's not a server somewhere that you can just surf stations through the receiver.

Or is there, and I'm just missing it? For now, I've looked up some stations and inputted them to the receiver from my laptop....what a pain.

And for that, I had to find a station, launch a Flash player, then copy the link from it. Is there any site the actually gives you the links without doing that?


Otherwise...I'm pretty pleased with this receiver. Bought it off Craigslist last year to replace my B&K Ref 50 Series II preamp that started locking up, plus I wanted HDMI ports.
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post #5031 of 5040 Old 08-12-2014, 04:57 PM
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I've had this receiver for about 3 years and loved it but I just recently finished my man cave and bought a new TV and am having problems now. Randomly and almost always on start up the image on the screen will go multi colored pixels and then the screen goes black for a couple seconds. It then turns back on and everything seems fine until it does it again. Sometimes the video will just dropout for a couple seconds as well. I'm not sure if it's having a hard time sending the signal to the new TV (Sony 70w850b) or what. I've tried a combination of all HDMI cables and no matter what cable or what input the outcome is the same. If I plug cable box directly into my TV it works fine with no dropout so I've pretty much concluded that the problem lies with the receiver. Hopefully someone can help, I'd rather not shell out another $400 for a new receiver..
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post #5032 of 5040 Old 08-12-2014, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claydogg84 View Post
I've had this receiver for about 3 years and loved it but I just recently finished my man cave and bought a new TV and am having problems now. Randomly and almost always on start up the image on the screen will go multi colored pixels and then the screen goes black for a couple seconds. It then turns back on and everything seems fine ... , I'd rather not shell out another $400 for a new receiver..
You've got EDID issues. It's an electronic handshake problem. There are things you can do. I'll post more tonight.
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post #5033 of 5040 Old 08-12-2014, 05:50 PM
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You've got EDID issues. It's an electronic handshake problem. There are things you can do. I'll post more tonight.
Thanks, it is appreciated!
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post #5034 of 5040 Old 08-14-2014, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claydogg84 View Post
Thanks, it is appreciated!
It sounds to me like you may be having handshake issues. You just finished your man cave and bought a new TV. Sounds like some new equipment is talking to each other, and some of your equipment now sits in a different location than before? The fact that audio and video drop, sometimes at start up, sometimes randomly later on, is a clue. If you're also seeing some color shift problems (usually to pink or green), that's another sign of probable handshake problems.

I started having handshake issues when I moved my equipment (including an 1120k) into a new room too. Some combinations of equipment, and configurations of equipment, are simply more susceptible than others. Longer HDMI runs, HDMI switches and HDMI splitters and HDMI wall plates etc. all increase the chances of having the problem, but none of those things are specifically required to cause it. All you really need is a little bad luck.

Read the two posts I've stitched together below. Bob Pariseau wrote em both a couple months ago. Together, they provide as good an EDID and handshake summary as I've ever read. Your exact equipment is different (obviously) then the stuff he talks about, but that doesn't matter at all -- the techniques to resolve your handshake issue are exactly the same. Post back with any questions. Good luck.

HDMI is a "configurable" digital data cabling system. The configuration is done by the source end finding out from the destination end what the destination is willing to accept, and the source then configuring the link to send things as best it can within any such limits. This configuration of the communication is called a "handshake" for short.

HDMI is an end to end protocol, meaning the handshake isn't just between the pair of devices sharing a given cable but rather ALL the devices currently involved in HDMI communications all the way from the source to the farthest device(s) -- usually a display and audio receiver.

Any time anything changes -- for example a device in the chain gets turned on or off, or the nature of the content changes (different video resolution, or different audio format) -- the existing HDMI link needs to be taken down and re-established. A new handshake. Each handshake or handshake retry takes about 2 seconds due to delays designed into the HDMI handshake scheme. Multiple retries mean things take longer in multiples of 2 seconds.

The source device (in your case the Comcast box or AppleTV, whichever you are using a the moment) controls the handshake -- doing all the necessary talking back and forth not only to the next device in the HDMI chain (in your case the OPPO) but also THROUGH the OPPO to the farther devices.

A problematic "feature" of HDMI is that the content providers require "copy protection" as part of the data link. This is supposed to keep you from siphoning off their valuable digital content and selling it as files of your own. What's problematic about it is that HDMI copy protection -- known as HDCP -- is finicky by design. It LIKES to fail! And when it fails the audio and video get muted while handshake retries happen trying to make HDCP happy again. And even when it WORKS, copy protection pops up and "rechecks" every few minutes -- usually in the background so you don't know it is happening. But if it doesn't like the recheck? You guessed it -- audio and video muting while an HDMI handshake retry happens.

The best way to think about HDMI is that it is constantly on the verge of failing -- i.e., deciding it needs to do a handshake retry. You can't completely eliminate that possibility, but you can minimize the chances of it happening.

The first thing to do is look to your cabling. Marginal HDMI cabling pretty much guarantees you will have handshake problems. When buying HDMI cables, be sure they are marked as "High Speed", or "For 1080p", or "Category 2" -- all of which mean the same thing. Also HDMI is most reliable with cables that are 6 feet long (2 meters). The HDMI hardware has built in compensation that is supposed to keep things working for longer or shorter cables, but both very long and unusually short cables can cause problems. So for example, even though your Comcast and ATV may be sitting right next to the OPPO, it is best to use 6 foot HDMI cabling between them instead of shorty cables.

Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, ANY cable in the HDMI chain may be the cause of the problem. E.,g,, a long cable to your TV may actually be the cause of what looks like problems getting the Comcast box to communicate with the OPPO!

Also HDMI plugs are just friction fit. It only takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw up the connection. This can happen if cable weight or bends in the cable tug on the plug. Make sure both plug ends of every HDMI cable are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket with nothing tugging on them.

(Note: Bob doesn't say it, but many have found that for long HDMI runs, Redmere "powered" HDMI cables from forum sponsor monoprice.com offer an inexpensive solution to handshake issues that derive from handshakes that fail due to the length of a longer HDMI run.)

ANYTHING in the HDMI path should be suspect. This includes daisy-chained cables, adapters, wall plates, HDMI switches, gizmos like Darbee Darblet -- ANYTHING. Try bypassing each suspect item to see if it might be the cause of your problems.

OK, cabling aside, the second most common problem with HDMI handshakes happens at power up. Basically what happens is that the handshake begins before some device powering up really has its act together. The ideal order to power things up is in the reverse direction of the data flow -- i.e., turn on TV, wait, turn on AVR, wait, turn on OPPO, wait, turn on ATV. But that might not be practical. Often it is easier to just "force" a new handshake manually to get things sorted out again.

You can "force" a new handshake by changing the Input on the OPPO back to "Blu-ray Player" and then back to your desired Input. Or by changing the Input selected on your Receiver. Or by changing output Resolution of the OPPO using its remote (and then back to 1080p). Again, most any change makes a new handshake happen.

Lastly, there are things you can do to "simplify" the handshake -- which again increases your odds of no problems.

For example, use explicit settings for HDMI output instead of AUTO. I.e, explicit 1080p output resolution and an explicit HDMI Color Space choice (YCbCr 4:4:4 is the normal default choice). Your source device(s) and AVR may also have AUTO output settings which you can configure to an explicit choice.

Enabling Deep Color puts more bandwidth on the HDMI cable, and can exacerbate problems with marginal HDMI cables. See if turning off Deep Color fixes things, and if so, you may need to upgrade your HDMI cables.

HDMI CEC (i.e., remote control of different devices across the HDMI cables connecting them) can also cause problems because CEC may be commanding the devices to power up and down more often than would normally be the case -- thus more handshakes.

(Note: That means turn off CEC on all your devices. Same for ARC.)

In your case I would look to your cabling first. If that doesn't fix it, then see if you can "live with" the problem by simply forcing a new handshake when the normal handshake fails -- i.e., switching Input on the OPPO to Blu-ray Player and then back to your desired Input. Also look to set explicit output settings instead of AUTO.

The rule for the ideal length of an HDMI cable is not "less than 6 feet". The rule is, "6 feet -- not more and not less".

Really it's just a Rule of Thumb. A way to improve your odds of having a stable electronic connection between each connected device.

Without getting too technical, signals degrade as they travel along the cable. Various techniques are employed to make the signals work reliably despite that, But HDMI is built around cheap hardware and so the techniques used are comparatively simple (considering the broad range of communications technologies out there). Simply put, the hardware makes assumptions about what's going to happen to the signal, and corrects based on those assumptions.

And the key assumption here is that the signal will traverse a 6 foot cable length. So if your cable is shorter, or substantially longer, the assumption is wrong and thus the odds get worse -- there's more chance the signal won't be handled cleanly enough to avoid issues. Not everyone will encounter issues of course. It's the luck of the draw.

HDMI is derived from DVI which was originally a "twisted pair" cabling system for connecting computers to their display monitors. As such it was built around an expectation of modest cable length. Indeed DVI was pretty much kaput for anything above 10 foot length.

One of the goals for HDMI was to increase that upper limit -- in particular so people could run longer cables to projectors. This was done by mandating "equalization" circuits in the HDMI transmitter and receiver chips. Over time the specs for that became more sophisticated -- something called "dynamic equalization" came into play around HDMI V1.2. This led to interesting problems if the chips at each end of the cable where different vintage or came from different chip makers who had their own distinct ideas as to how to do this, but I digress.

Anyway, right now you can actually get pretty decent length out of HDMI v1.4, and it even WORKS -- a surprising amount of the time. (I'm constantly amazed that it works at all!) But it remains the case that the most "robust" length for an HDMI cable -- the length least likely to have issues -- is 6 feet (2 meters).

Redmere technology HDMI cables have an active circuit -- a chip -- at the source end of the cable. Simplifying again, that chip makes the cable -- whatever length it happens to be -- look like a 6 foot cable to the things at either end. (Redmere is inexpensive and available from forum sponsor Monoprice.com.)

This 6 foot distance is measured between a pair of active HDMI devices -- like the player and an AVR. Each such device starts the length over again because the HDMI signal is "regenerated" for output to the next device in the HDMI chain. Having a passive thing like a mechanical HDMI switch or daisy chained cable in the signal path does NOT restart the distance.

Indeed each time the HDMI cabling "fans out" into a plug/socket combo -- or "fans in" at the other side in case of daisy-chaining -- things get worse. Why? Because the signal degrades MORE across that fan out and fan in than if it simply traversed the same distance as a single cable. The poster child for this is "wall plates" -- those things used to tidy up cabling where it enters and leaves your walls. For the longest time wall plates were suspect #1 for HDMI cabling problems. Basically they only worked up to 1080i. That's no longer the case, but it's just an example that anything in the HDMI signal path can be the source of problems.

--Bob

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post #5035 of 5040 Old 08-14-2014, 04:28 PM
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It sounds to me like you may be having handshake issues. You just finished your man cave and bought a new TV. Sounds like some new equipment is talking to each other, and some of your equipment now sits in a different location than before? The fact that audio and video drop, sometimes at start up, sometimes randomly later on, is a clue. If you're also seeing some color shift problems (usually to pink or green), that's another sign of probable handshake problems.

I started having handshake issues when I moved my equipment (including an 1120k) into a new room too. Some combinations of equipment, and configurations of equipment, are simply more susceptible than others. Longer HDMI runs, HDMI switches and HDMI splitters and HDMI wall plates etc. all increase the chances of having the problem, but none of those things are specifically required to cause it. All you really need is a little bad luck.

Read the two posts I've stitched together below. Bob Pariseau wrote em both a couple months ago. Together, they provide as good an EDID and handshake summary as I've ever read. Your exact equipment is different (obviously) then the stuff he talks about, but that doesn't matter at all -- the techniques to resolve your handshake issue are exactly the same. Post back with any questions. Good luck.
Seems like it could be a bunch of different things.. I suppose I will switch all my HDMI cables to one brand first, but I will not be able to change the cable in the wall unfortunately. Mo, what ended up fixing the problem for you? Thanks for the help

Clay
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post #5036 of 5040 Old 08-14-2014, 08:26 PM
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Seems like it could be a bunch of different things ... Mo, what ended up fixing the problem for you?
I had to work on all those things. It can be as simple as the socket fit on a single HDMI plug. Or it can be a bunch of things playing off each other. In my case, with a bunch of equipment and a lot of cabling into everything, it was a lot of trial and error.

But worth it.
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post #5037 of 5040 Old 08-15-2014, 08:23 AM
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Bought a used 1120. In checking online and throughout forums, can this receiver access music stored on a home network? Have seen that others have asked this but have received no answers. Thanks.
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post #5038 of 5040 Old 08-15-2014, 09:20 AM
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Bought a used 1120. In checking online and throughout forums, can this receiver access music stored on a home network?
Not on its own. DLNA and Apple Airplay don't arrive until the VSX-1121. The spec sheets for the 1120 and 1121, and the operating instructions for your 1120 manual are below. The 1120 will access internet radio for you.

1120-K Spec Sheet: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/ep...120-K_Ver2.pdf

1121-K Spec Sheet: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/ep...le%20Sheet.pdf

1120-K Operating Manual: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/St...ctions1015.pdf

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post #5039 of 5040 Old 08-25-2014, 01:25 PM
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Help Needed - Power Wont Turn on

Bought this unit when it released in the first 2 weeks...Had been a great receiver for the budget.

2 Weeks Ago : Lightening - Even with the Surge protector - lost some good valuable equipments, PS3, Xbox, Samsung TV, Dish Receiver, Ethernet Switche, LG TV...

Just got the Samsung TV working. Trying to get the 1120 receiver working..

After Surge :
Day 1 : Receiver didnt turn on at all - removed the power cable - shut the power -
Day 3 : Receiver turned it on
I can see all the inputs etc...but I am not able to get the output signal from the receiver. TV says no signal. already checked the TV with different equipment. its working, but no signal transferring from Pioneer to TV.

Things i didnt do so far :
Factory reset - Check with component cables

Any other quick fix....
Even right now, when it turns on - it turns on slow and turns off slow...

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post #5040 of 5040 Old 08-25-2014, 01:36 PM
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Bought this unit when it released in the first 2 weeks ... Had been a great receiver ... 2 Weeks Ago : Lightning ... Things i didnt do so far: Factory reset - Check with component cables. Even right now, when it turns on - it turns on slow and turns off slow...
Unfortunately, that sounds fried. Try the factory reset, then try alternative output options to see if any are working.

Be careful -- you can't be sure the receiver is safe for you or connected equipment in its current condition.

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