Pioneer VSX-1120 TXH HDMI V1.4 Receiver Owners' Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 5040 Old 08-25-2010, 12:32 PM
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I just ordered a Pioneer AS-BT100 Bluetooth adaptor for my 1120. I'll be testing it with my iPhones, laptops, and HTPC.

On the iPhones, I'll be testing it with Pandora, iTunes, and the "Simplify" app.

On the HTPC and laptop, I'll be testing it with WMC, Pandora, internet radio stations, and iTunes.

For local data, I'll test both MP3s and lossless files.

I'll be sure to let everyone know how it works out.
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post #632 of 5040 Old 08-25-2010, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps24eva View Post

does this receiver have ARC?

yes.
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post #633 of 5040 Old 08-25-2010, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps24eva View Post

does this receiver have arc?

yes
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post #634 of 5040 Old 08-25-2010, 01:34 PM
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Anyone have benchmark power output numbers? Looking to replace TX-SR705 with this if is produces more power!
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post #635 of 5040 Old 08-25-2010, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostfrenzy View Post

Anyone have benchmark power output numbers? Looking to replace TX-SR705 with this if is produces more power!

Doesn't the 705 have pre-outs? Why not simply add an amp or two for much better power?
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post #636 of 5040 Old 08-25-2010, 03:27 PM
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Does anyone know what accessories I need to get Sirius Radio up and running on this AVR? All I know is that this thing has an antenna port... now what?
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post #637 of 5040 Old 08-25-2010, 03:38 PM
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For banana plugs I got the monoprice ones with the side wiring option. The reviews said they worked better with 12gauge wire. You still have to spread the wire and pull it through the side holes a bit with needle nose pliers or a small screwdriver, then tighten down. You don't need the wire long enough to poke out of the side holes though. I'm going to get some heatshrink and cover the plugs too so everything on the back is protected from shorts. For the speaker side, mine have spring loaded posts, so I just soldered/tinned the wires straight/solid and put them in. Looks great and won't short out.

I have an odd question with DVD players and 16:9 TV's. What settings do you all use to feed the AVR, and TV with? To get ANY DVD to look right on my TV, I have to set the DVD player to 16:9 and then I MUST set the 4:3 setting from "normal" to "full". If I don't do this, then it's just a 4:3 image on the TV and it's squished up vertically. Next I have to make sure the AVR is set to "Through" instead of "normal". If I change any of those the image is squished. Finally, the TV will not display the image full screen without setting it to "Wide-stretch". If I do normal, then I have black bars on both the top and bottom of the image. (If the DVD is 16:9 then I just have bars on the side).

I have to be setting that stuff right as any other setting does not work... Is that normal or is my DVD player just "old"? I assume you can get newer 480i DVD players with HDMI output, but then would the AVR/TV be able to do the "full & wide" or is that already done with the newer DVD players?
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post #638 of 5040 Old 08-25-2010, 06:15 PM
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I bought a Pansonic DVD in 2004 that behaved properly with 16:9 displays. Either you are misusing what you have, or you are overdue for an upgrade.
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post #639 of 5040 Old 08-25-2010, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjktcvs View Post

I bought a Pansonic DVD in 2004 that behaved properly with 16:9 displays. Either you are misusing what you have, or you are overdue for an upgrade.

I have an old trusty oppo dvd player with hdmi if you're interested...
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post #640 of 5040 Old 08-25-2010, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by palehorse View Post

I don't think we're able to use any internet radio stations that require authentication, so you'll probably need to use the Sirius antenna.

Bummer... Thanks for the info.
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post #641 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 07:41 AM
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I have a Klipsch RPW-10 subwoofer with a frequency response of 35-120Hz. What should I set the crossover to on the receiver? I currently have the receiver set to 100Hz and the subwoofer set to 100Hz.

I would like to optimize the bass response for music and movies. Is there a standard preference for each?
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post #642 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CincyAudio View Post

I have a Klipsch RPW-10 subwoofer with a frequency response of 35-120Hz. What should I set the crossover to on the receiver? I currently have the receiver set to 100Hz and the subwoofer set to 100Hz.

I would like to optimize the bass response for music and movies. Is there a standard preference for each?



Generally when you use a receiver that sets a system crossover, you want the crossover on the subwoofer to be set as high as it can go. When you have the system set a crossover, it sends all the bass signals from your speakers in your case below 100hz to the subwoofer. So if your subwoofer crossover was at 80hz but the system crossover was at 100hz, you'd lose the frequency from 80-100. So to ensure you don't accidentally lose frequency, it is best to set your sub at the maximum it can go. There is a good forum that explains all of this somewhere and I'll post it if I can find it.
One little gripe people have about the Pioneer (it is still a good receiver!) is that it has limited options for crossovers (like 80, 100, 125...) so there might not be your ideal crossover setting for your system. If you want advice about that setting post the frequency response of your speakers, but generally you want the crossover set as low as possible without losing frequency because your main speakers can't go that low. 80hz is the THX crossover standard, but depending on your speakers it may have to be at 100hz.
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post #643 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CincyAudio View Post

I have a Klipsch RPW-10 subwoofer with a frequency response of 35-120Hz. What should I set the crossover to on the receiver? I currently have the receiver set to 100Hz and the subwoofer set to 100Hz.

I would like to optimize the bass response for music and movies. Is there a standard preference for each?

What speakers do you use? Do you know there ranges?
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post #644 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse View Post

What speakers do you use? Do you know there ranges?

My Klipsch satellite speakers are 150Hz-20kHz up to 100 watts per channel.
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post #645 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CincyAudio View Post

My Klipsch satellite speakers are 150Hz-20kHz up to 100 watts per channel.

All of your speakers are the same? If so, then set the receiver's crossover at 150, and do as avfanatic1 suggested on the sub -- set it as high as it can go (Unfortunately, that's only 120).

I hate to say it, but your setup may very well have a substantial mid-range gap between 120 and 150Hz. You should look for some matching front LCR speakers with the mids/lows to fill that gap.
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post #646 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse View Post

I just ordered a Pioneer AS-BT100 Bluetooth adaptor for my 1120. I'll be testing it with my iPhones, laptops, and HTPC.

On the iPhones, I'll be testing it with Pandora, iTunes, and the "Simplify" app.

On the HTPC and laptop, I'll be testing it with WMC, Pandora, internet radio stations, and iTunes.

For local data, I'll test both MP3s and lossless files.

I'll be sure to let everyone know how it works out.

It does very well with the Iphone and Pandora, Itunes, etc.
You will want to tweek the EQ a little but I was pleasantly surprised

Is it LIVE or is it on a Sony XBR 65X950B
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post #647 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tulsa1 View Post

It does very well with the Iphone and Pandora, Itunes, etc.
You will want to tweek the EQ a little but I was pleasantly surprised

Does the bluetooth adaptor show up as its own separate input with its own remote button?

Also, with laptops, does Windows 7 automatically see the connection as a selectable audio output?
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post #648 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps24eva View Post

does this receiver have ARC?

Like everyone else said, it does have ARC, but it's not nearly as customizable as i thought it would be. if you enable their return channel, then you can't designate HDMI inputs for sources. It's rather confusing.
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post #649 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 10:25 AM
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mrjktcvs: What I listed is the ONLY way it will work with a 16:9 display. If I leave everything to "normal" then I get a tiny square picture with huge black bars all around that is squished (everybody is tall). It's a Sony I bought in 2006-2007. Sounds like the DVD player is the issue, and I need to get one that is more "compliant". Strange that it's so new but no HMDI and weird issues with 16:9 TV's... I've tried EVERY setting on it in every different combination.

Good thing about the 1120 is it can upscale HDMI input as well, so looks like I'm covered there with a different player.
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post #650 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacHayes View Post

mrjktcvs: What I listed is the ONLY way it will work with a 16:9 display. If I leave everything to "normal" then I get a tiny square picture with huge black bars all around that is squished (everybody is tall). It's a Sony I bought in 2006-2007. Sounds like the DVD player is the issue, and I need to get one that is more "compliant". Strange that it's so new but no HMDI and weird issues with 16:9 TV's... I've tried EVERY setting on it in every different combination.

Good thing about the 1120 is it can upscale HDMI input as well, so looks like I'm covered there with a different player.

I had the same issue when I first bought a 16:9 TV a year after I got the DVD player. I think I solved it by finding the wide setting buried somewhere in a pretty complex menu. Now that I think about it, that only worked with HDMI -- wouldn't work with component video. I didn't have a receiver that accepted HDMI inputs at the time and the TV -- an LG 1080i tube -- only had one HDMI input, so I had to swap cables in the back of the display when playing DVDs
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post #651 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse View Post

All of your speakers are the same? If so, then set the receiver's crossover at 150, and do as avfanatic1 suggested on the sub -- set it as high as it can go (Unfortunately, that's only 120).

I hate to say it, but your setup may very well have a substantial mid-range gap between 120 and 150Hz. You should look for some matching front LCR speakers with the mids/lows to fill that gap.

Here is a link to the set, you can see the satellites and a photo of the rear of the sub.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_714HDT1...00.html?tp=184
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post #652 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CincyAudio View Post

Here is a link to the set, you can see the satellites and a photo of the rear of the sub.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_714HDT1...00.html?tp=184

yeah... it looks like you're going to have a gap. It's amazing to me that any company would make a "kit" with such an obvious gap in frequency response.

Maybe your ears won't notice it.

Good luck!
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post #653 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse View Post

yeah... it looks like you're going to have a gap. It's amazing to me that any company would make a "kit" with such an obvious gap in frequency response.

Maybe your ears won't notice it.

Good luck!

Ya, that is a little weird they would sell a system like that. But in any case, it will be better than no surround!
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post #654 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by avfanatic1 View Post


Ya, that is a little weird they would sell a system like that. But in any case, it will be better than no surround!

Well I purchased the whole system for $499 out the door. The sub alone cost $389 so I can't complain too much. In the future a good center should fill the void with little loss to my HTS investment. Hard to believe that system retailed for $999 when it first came out.

I was also looking at a Definitive Technology ProCinema 600 but it is going for $800 and the Klipsch system seems to come with a better sub.
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post #655 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 08:02 PM
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Hi all, I could really use some help from those out there that own the 1120. I'm hoping to make a move on this unit tomorrow but I'm slightly concerned about its size, in particular its depth. I'm not near anyone that actually has the physical unit so at this point I have to count on the manual posted on Pioneer's site which lists the unit at 17 1/16 inches.

Problem is I don't know what that spec represents. Is it from the volume knob to the back of the case? Or just the case front to back? I currently own a Denon AVR-2500 which is listed as 17 3/64. At first glance it would appear that I should then be safe with the 17 1/16 1120. But when I measure my Denon from volume knob to back of the case it is only 16.5.

So I'm confused. Is there an industry standard from which depth is measured (i.e. back posts of the case to volume knob)? Can anyone please provide the max depth measurement for the 1120? Please no assumptions on connections just how long is this thing from the front most piece of hardware to the back (posts included). I apologize if this has already been covered in an earlier post or if this is a foolish question. I searched like a madman trying to come up with something but no luck. Thanks to all that respond you're doing me a huge favor.
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post #656 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 08:53 PM
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hi guys, just to report back.

i've received the replacement 1120K and it works fine. the first unit was a bad unit and was not user error on my part as was suggested.
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post #657 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 09:11 PM
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Good deal. Who knows it could have been fine out of the factory, but something jarred loose in shipping?
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post #658 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 09:34 PM
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Silk:

front face to back face: 15 9/16"
binding posts extend 15/16" from the back
knobs extend 11/16" from the front

(add em up, 17 3/16" - maybe the binding post I measured was extended a little due to wire on it, dunno)

HTH


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post #659 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CincyAudio View Post

Well I purchased the whole system for $499 out the door. The sub alone cost $389 so I can't complain too much. In the future a good center should fill the void with little loss to my HTS investment. Hard to believe that system retailed for $999 when it first came out.

I was also looking at a Definitive Technology ProCinema 600 but it is going for $800 and the Klipsch system seems to come with a better sub.

Like I said in an earlier post, I have the same exact system. I listened to the 1000, then the 500, there was no contest. The 1000 sounded 10 times better to my ears. I no longer have the 1120, but on my Onkyo I have the crossover set to 120hz. Having called Klipsch, that is what they suggested as well. That way, I am not losing anything betwen 120hz and 150hz.
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post #660 of 5040 Old 08-26-2010, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remedy1978 View Post

Like I said in an earlier post, I have the same exact system. I listened to the 1000, then the 500, there was no contest. The 1000 sounded 10 times better to my ears. I no longer have the 1120, but on my Onkyo I have the crossover set to 120hz. Having called Klipsch, that is what they suggested as well. That way, I am not losing anything between 120hz and 150hz.

I'm fairly confident that they lied to you... you still have the gap. Regardless of the various crossover settings on the sub and receiver, none of the speakers in that particular set provide coverage between 120-150Hz, so it's simply not possible to close the gap (completely) without different speakers.

Your coverage of the spectrum with the AVR and sub crossovers set at 120 will be the exact same as Cincy's set at 150... with the same gap.

It's the fault of the speakers, not the various AVRs.

In fact, it's a rather large flaw in that kit... Think about it, your speakers and sub can never truly "cross over" with one another, which ain't good. The entire point of a crossover is to smoothly hand the responsibilities off from one set of speakers to another. That transition needs to be as seamless as possible, and a 30Hz gap in the lows is far from seamless.

No offense, but if the published specs for that kit are accurate, I'd get my money back...

EDIT: Below is a thread discussing this issue, and Klipsch's email response sounds an awful lot like bullsh*t... they claim:


"

Speakers will play a bit lower than the suggested low frequency spec," so "you should be fine." That type of language is straight out of the Bose playbook...
http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/128828/1305882.aspx

EDIT2: After looking into this a little further, it sounds like every "satellite" system has a gap in the mid-bass -- some larger, some smaller -- so the Klipsch kits are not unique in that regard, and their gaps are supposedly the smallest of the bunch... /shrug
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