Pioneer VSX-1120 TXH HDMI V1.4 Receiver Owners' Thread - Page 51 - AVS Forum
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post #1501 of 5040 Old 10-26-2010, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by palehorse View Post

Congrats my friend, and welcome to the club!!

Yeah, I'm as stoked as I've been in many, many years.
The thought of tweaking to improve and worst case scenario is I end up where I'm at right now is pretty cool.
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post #1502 of 5040 Old 10-26-2010, 08:46 PM
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I am thinking about this unit for my 2.1 setup, but I wondered how I would set it up for 2.1. I am only familiar with Denon. I would like to try it with a seperate dedicated Amp and just using the AVR as an Amp and see which I prefer. I assume when I use the AVR as an Amp, I would just set it to one of the Virtual Surround modes and it will send all info to the fronts+sub? If so, do I need to change anything if I'm using a pre-out? How do I direct all info through a single preout? Well, I can split my sub off from my dedicated Amp or continue to use the AVR, which would be Fronts+Sub preout. (My stereo Amp has a 2nd output, with a low pass filter that I currently use for my sub, so full range works fine)
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post #1503 of 5040 Old 10-26-2010, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ExToker View Post

While your on the page, take a look at the heatsinks.
Take a flashlight and look down through the vent of your receiver at the 'heatsinks'. Youll see a whole line of bent tin, common at this pricepoint.
Cybrsage has commented on how cool the 1120 runs.
If that heatsink configuration keeps the receiver cool, then there cant be that much heat put out to begin with. No heat, No Power. Another tipoff is the .08 THD.

That's because this is a class D amp (I think).
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...+HD+Amplifiers
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post #1504 of 5040 Old 10-26-2010, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Probedude View Post


Very convincing. I'm really close to pulling the trigger for one except I've got to decide if I want to cut the back off my credenza to fit it in. Everything seems to be 17" deep these days.

Not that it matters much, but what is the standby power consumption for this receiver? Since it doesn't have HDMI passthrough, the wife will need to turn it on to watch DVD's but she's not going to use the HT speakers but instead the TV speakers. (My Onkyo consumes ~ 66W at lowest volume)

Edit: Just bought one - extra discount from Amazon + all receivers I was considering being 17" deep settled it for me.

I think that it does have hdmi passthrough in standby mode. I don't have the book handy, and I haven't tried it, but I could have sworn that many owners here have said that it does...?
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post #1505 of 5040 Old 10-26-2010, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by e2g_ View Post



Thanks for the information. Out of curiousity, how are you triggering your parasound amp?

That was a subject discussed earlier. The one thing lacking is a 12v trigger on the 1120. So to answer your question, I walk up and turn it on. Manual labor.
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post #1506 of 5040 Old 10-26-2010, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by e2g_ View Post


Thanks for the information. That brings a general question I have. If listening to 2 channel music, do the sub takes part into that. If not, then would it be wise to have them set to Large.If that is the case, is there a mode you can enter (I.E. Music) that basically just sets the two fronts to large and send music only to them for 2 channel listening?

When listening to music in stereo mode, mine does include the sub for 2.1.
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post #1507 of 5040 Old 10-26-2010, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Probedude View Post

That's because this is a class D amp (I think).
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...+HD+Amplifiers

I'm just 'old school'. I think thats a bunch of fluff, but dont really know.
When it comes to amps, I shop by weight.
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post #1508 of 5040 Old 10-26-2010, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Raddle View Post


I have the VSX-32 with triggers but have had a hard time finding a cheap power strip that accepts a 12V trigger. Do you have any recommendations?

I use a "smart strip" and a ac/dc adapter with a 3.5mm end. Google smart strip and Radio Shack will have the adapter. They will also have the 3.5mm end. Plug the 1120 into the control part of the strip and the adapter into one of the switched outlets. Of course, the plug goes to the amp trigger. That's it. Oh, and the amp always gets plugged into the wall direct. Never a power strip. Easy-peasy.
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post #1509 of 5040 Old 10-26-2010, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by drewh01 View Post

I use a "smart strip" and a ac/dc adapter with a 3.5mm end. Google smart strip and Radio Shack will have the adapter. They will also have the 3.5mm end. Plug the 1120 into the control part of the strip and the adapter into one of the switched outlets. Of course, the plug goes to the amp trigger. That's it. Oh, and the amp always gets plugged into the wall direct. Never a power strip. Easy-peasy.

Any chance you could link the product you bought at RS (better yet, something similar at Amazon)? I thought that 12v triggers used 1/8" mini-jacks, so I'm not exactly understanding how this fits together...

-Shag
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post #1510 of 5040 Old 10-26-2010, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse View Post

I understand that you have good speakers, but do you actually understand what the large/small setting does?

MCACC will always default to LARGE when you have full-range speakers; but that setting is usually not the right one, especially when you also have a really good sub, or more than one sub -- this is especially true in THX setups.

Leaving them set to LARGE essentially negates any/all benefits you gain from setting a crossover. This might be something you prefer for certain source material, or in certain rooms; but, you'll usually get much better home theater results with all, or most, of your speakers set to SMALL (even if they are full-range speakers that cost thousands of dollars each!)

For the 1120, I recommend these settings for use in a home theater:
SMALL
SMALL
SMALL
YES
80Hz

Here is a fairly decent explanation of the large/small setting:
(from hometheatermag)

As with all things audio, it all comes down to personal preference. But, I personally like to let my sub do the job it's meant to do...

I didn't realize that the crossover does nothing when set to large. I set it at 80Hz purposely to send all sub freq's to the sub woofer. Thank you Palehorse for pointing that out. I will change this right away and recalibrate, even though it is sounding pretty good right now with the Harman in line

If it's too loud, you're too old...
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post #1511 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shag View Post


Any chance you could link the product you bought at RS (better yet, something similar at Amazon)? I thought that 12v triggers used 1/8" mini-jacks, so I'm not exactly understanding how this fits together...

1/8" mini = 3.5mm plug, it's the same thing except you are not running stereo sound but a 12v electrical current. I went to RS and bought a 12v ac/dc adapter and you can select the jack for it. The 3.5mm one fits into the 12v trigger....and wal-lah. Hope that helps.
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post #1512 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 02:15 AM
 
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Originally Posted by The Soapbox Kid View Post

Two comments for you. First, the video scaler in the Pioneer will substantially outperform both that Denon model and most of the Onkyo line.

What kind of display are using where you notice this difference? A giant projector, or....? I got sucked into buying the Denon 2310CI because of all the hype about the Anchor Bay VRS processing, and I think it is overrated. Now people rave about this Qdeo chip in this Pioneer and I am not wowed at all. Bunch of overblown hype if you ask me. If you have a recent higher-end Samsung HDTV you don't even need to upscale anything in the AVR.

Quote:
Second, I replaced a Denon 3310CI (CI version of the 990) with the VSX-32 (which is very similar to the 1120 ... minor differences are posted several places in this thread) and it is a superior unit.

Specifically, in what way? I have one step lower than you--the 2310CI, and I was no major fan of the onscreen GUI until I tried the Pioneers. Now I have come to appreciate how much nicer the menus and transparent onscreen overlays are on the Denon. The menu is very ugly and spartan on the Pioneer, with only a few minimal controls, and you have to exit whatever you are watching on the screen to go into the Pio menu. On my Denon I could fiddle with all the settings on screen with an attractive overlay, while still viewing the video underneath. Much more user friendly.

On the Pioneer I have to squint at the remote and find which of the tiny little buttons does this thing or that. With the Denon I could just swivel my thumb a few keys to navigate the nice color onscreen menus and adjust most everything I needed.
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post #1513 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 02:25 AM
 
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Originally Posted by familytruckster View Post

First of all, I really enjoy the look and feel of this AVR, the GUI is nice...

Compared to what? The GUI on my last year's Denon trounces the ugly GUI on this Pio. Not only is the GUI much more functional and pleasing to the eyes, but it has a LOT more things that you can adjust on-screen, without interrupting whatever content you are playing.
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post #1514 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 02:58 AM
 
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Originally Posted by The Soapbox Kid View Post

Not quite true. Your BDU provides 720p or 1080i out of a typical PVR. The video scaler in the Pioneer does a great job upscaling to 1080p. Better than Denon.

How do we know this? Better than which Denon? What were the specific tests that were conducted?
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post #1515 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 05:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Probedude View Post

Very convincing. I'm really close to pulling the trigger for one except I've got to decide if I want to cut the back off my credenza to fit it in. Everything seems to be 17" deep these days.

Not that it matters much, but what is the standby power consumption for this receiver? Since it doesn't have HDMI passthrough, the wife will need to turn it on to watch DVD's but she's not going to use the HT speakers but instead the TV speakers. (My Onkyo consumes ~ 66W at lowest volume)

Edit: Just bought one - extra discount from Amazon + all receivers I was considering being 17" deep settled it for me.

It does have hdmi passthrough. Unsure where people are getting the miconception.
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post #1516 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 05:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocuMaker View Post

How do we know this? Better than which Denon? What were the specific tests that were conducted?

It fares pretty equal in synthetic deinterlacing tests, which are largely unimportant compared to noise reduction since most of us are only going to use the VP for cable or sat television. This is where the Qdeo outshines the ABT 2015. I own both a denon avr-2311 and a pioneer 1120 and prefer the 1120 for cable tv. The Qdeo has multiple settings for NR.

This might be why Oppo is moving from ABT-2010 to Qdeo in their first streaming player.
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post #1517 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 05:15 AM
 
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Originally Posted by winston9332 View Post

It does have hdmi passthrough. Unsure where people are getting the miconception.

It does not work for me...but maybe that is because I am using the econo standby mode.
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post #1518 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 05:24 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExToker View Post

That discount is what prodded me also. Congrats.
Manual states: Standby power consumption (Hdmi setup-Control off- .02w, Control on- .03w)

I am waiting for a reply from Pioneer, I asked them the difference in power usage between the normal standby mode and the econo standby mode.

They replied quickly with "we do not know and sent the question to engineering". I am waiting for a reply from them.

If anyone has a kilawatt meter, do a quick test for me.
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post #1519 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

I am waiting for a reply from Pioneer, I asked them the difference in power usage between the normal standby mode and the econo standby mode.

They replied quickly with "we do not know and sent the question to engineering". I am waiting for a reply from them.

If anyone has a kilawatt meter, do a quick test for me.

Yeah, I'm kinda 'tongue in cheek' over power useage. Like buying a car that gets 30 mpg because it says so on the window sticker.
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post #1520 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 06:29 AM
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Please help-

Is there a way to increase the signal sent to the pre-outs? I'm using an external amp (HK PA2000) to drive the low end of my RTi12's and I'm using the 1020k to drive the high end. The amp comes on via "music sense". At lower levels, the amp doesn't turn on at all.
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post #1521 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

It does not work for me...but maybe that is because I am using the econo standby mode.

Can't use the eco setting. the passthrough probably uses 40 to 60 watts based upon other receivers' similar features. would probably be more energy efficient to just turn on the receiver and mute the volume than leaving receiver in hdmi passthrough standby all day and night.
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post #1522 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by yakapo View Post

Please help-

Is there a way to increase the signal sent to the pre-outs? I'm using an external amp (HK PA2000) to drive the low end of my RTi12's and I'm using the 1020k to drive the high end. The amp comes on via "music sense". At lower levels, the amp doesn't turn on at all.

You could try turning the volume knobs down on the HK, and rerun MCACC. The 1120 should increase the line output signal to compensate. This is a common issue with auto on subs.
However, I'm not really sure what that would do at the crossover.
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post #1523 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 06:56 AM
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I just recently (yesterday) got my VSX-1120. The deal at Amazon was just too good to be true. Ended up getting it for under $430 shipped with next day air. I replaced a THX certified Yamaha receiver that I have had for 4+ years. I cannot believe the sound quality difference on this unit. I have been blown away thus far.

I do have one question, however. I was playing with the internet radio settings yesterday. Does anyone else have trouble navigating or getting back to the menu of stations? If I use the PC control, I can modify the stations and then "launch" a station from there, but if I go through the receiver, it automatically launches the last station I was on and the return button does not seem to function at all. If I put a buggy URL in the list, it will get me to the list of stations, but I cannot navigate through the list at all.

Anyone else have this issue? Can someone help me troubleshoot what might be going on? THis is the only menu system that seems to have the problems.


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post #1524 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 06:59 AM
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I'm contemplating pulling the trigger on this one today, despite my reservations about the lack of a 12v trigger. I'm still feeling a bit under-researched, though - anyone know how long the Amazon discount is valid?

-Shag
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post #1525 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 07:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExToker View Post

Yeah, I'm kinda 'tongue in cheek' over power useage. Like buying a car that gets 30 mpg because it says so on the window sticker.

A few quick comments regarding power consumption and hdmi pass through:

1. If you are very concerned about power consumption, I recommend you rely on the rear-mounted, 5 watt speakers within your LED HDTV.

2. HDMI Passthrough is going to use a fair amount of idle power. In other words, you are foregoing the power when firing up the receiver to rely just on the tv speakers in exchange for using significantly more power at idle all the time. It would be my uneducated guess that the receiver uses less than a watt at idle with HDMI mode in eco and no pass through. For practical purposes, let's say the receiver uses 30 watts with pass through enabled. Now let's assume you want to watch tv at night for two hours without amplification from the receiver, so you continue to only use 30 watts. If you power on the receiver on mute, let's say it uses 80 watts for those two hours.

So, let's compare total usage using the hdmi passthrough method versus my Polish passthrough method of putting it on mute.

Passthrough: 30 watts x 24 hours = 720 watts
Polish passthrough: 1 watts X 22 hours + 80 watts x 2 hours = 182 watts
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post #1526 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 07:06 AM
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How does the amp section of the 1120 compare to the vsx01/03/21/23?

The 1018 series had decent amp sections, but the 1019 series skimped in this area. The features of the new 1120 are very good, just curious about the amp sections, thanks.
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post #1527 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 07:07 AM
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Is the video upscaling configurable? Can you choose to pass native resolution for specific inputs? For gaming, I'd be looking to reduce input lag as much as possible, and I understand that passing the native signal would allow for the least amount of introduced lag. I'd only want to do this for my gaming console inputs - can that be done?

-Shag
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post #1528 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 07:10 AM
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@winston...

lol at polish passthrough... you almost cost me a keyboard there...

- chris

 

my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1332917/ccotenj-finally-gets-a-projector

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post #1529 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 07:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Interspy24 View Post

How does the amp section of the 1120 compare to the vsx01/03/21/23?

The 1018 series had decent amp sections, but the 1019 series skimped in this area. The features of the new 1120 are very good, just curious about the amp sections, thanks.

very similar to the 21/23. i think dacs were changed, but power supply is the same.
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post #1530 of 5040 Old 10-27-2010, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shag View Post

Is the video upscaling configurable? Can you choose to pass native resolution for specific inputs? For gaming, I'd be looking to reduce input lag as much as possible, and I understand that passing the native signal would allow for the least amount of introduced lag. I'd only want to do this for my gaming console inputs - can that be done?

yes, it's assignable/independent per input
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